Begin to Knit / All the Basic Stitches; Easy Novelty Stitches; Quick Things to Make

BASIC NEEDS AND KNOW HOW....

YARNS: Yarns vary in size, twist and texture. Use the “Dawn” Yarn indicated in the directions as only an experienced expert knitter knows how to allow for the difference when a substitution is made. It is also very important to purchase all the yarn needed at one time as different dye lots frequently have different shades of color.

When you purchase your yarn always check the dye lot number to make certain they are all the same. It is much wiser to purchase a little extra yarn than to try and match the dye lot after your garment is finished. Though the color may look the same in the skein more often than not the difference will be seen in the finished work. The “ply” of yarn means the number of strands twisted together. This can be seen by taking the end of the yarn and untwisting.

FUNDAMENTALS & SOME TIPS

Learn the basic stitches. There are only three: Knit, Purl and slip. All the others are produced by variations and in combination with yarn overs. See page 10.

Practice first with heavy yarn and thick needles. Study the stitch and the position it takes on the needle. Follow arrows in illustration. Learn to recognize when it is wrong. Watch the yarn to see where each loop of the stitch begins and ends. If you lay your knitting aside for a few days or longer, always rip back a few rows before starting again. This will prevent an uneven row. See page 12 for ripping back.

Parentheses in our instructions are used for an explanation of a st, a certain section of a garment, or change of sts for change of size. A ROW is once across the needle. A RIDGE is 2 rows, back and forth. WORK EVEN, means to continue in pattern st keeping the continuity of the design.

Always MEASURE straight up and down unless otherwise stated.

WINDING WOOL

Winding the wool correctly is important. Never wind wool tightly as this stretches it. Wind several strands around fingers, slip these from fingers. Over these strands, in opposite direction, wind a few more strands wrapping yarn around fingers and ball. Continue in this manner, always winding over fingers and in opposite direction from last winding.

LEFT HAND KNITTING: Follow the instructions but change your copy to read left hand where it says “right hand” and vice versa. Use a mirror to study diagrams and charts. This will reverse the image for you.

JOINING YARNS ... If possible, join the new yarn with a knot at the beginning of a row. If this cannot be done, work next st with new yarn leaving a 4 inch length. Work a few sts, tie the ends firmly and with a yarn needle weave ends into work.

MARKER ... This term is used whenever it is important that a certain point is to be marked. Example: increase, decrease, beginning of a row or round, buttonholes, center st, etc. To make a marker of yarn, use a different color; make a slip knot leaving ends about 2 inches in length. Place on needle as directed. Slip marker off one needle to the other needle in each successive round.

MULTIPLE OF STS ... This term is used generally at beginning of directions and means that a certain multiple of sts is necessary to work one pattern. Example: multiple of 4 sts would mean any number divisible by 4 or 12, 16, 24 sts, etc. A multiple of 4 plus 2 would be 14, 18, 26 sts, etc., or any number that has 2 more sts after dividing by 4.

NEEDLE TYPES

STRAIGHT NEEDLES ... are used when working back and forth in rows. They come in lengths of 10, 12, and 14 inches and sizes O-1-2-3, etc. The larger the number, the thicker the needle.

DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES ... come in sets of 4 or 5. They are used for socks, mittens and any articles made in rounds.

CIRCULAR NEEDLES ... are used in making skirts, or parts of garments when a seam is not desired; also in completing a large doily or a round tablecloth.

Directions give the size and type needle required and it is not advisable to change the size unless it is necessary in order to obtain the correct gauge.

CABLE NEEDLES ... are short with a bend in the center to hold sts from slipping off. They are available in thin or thick size for the different yarns. A short double pointed needle may also be used. It is a good idea after placing sts on the straight needle to be used for cable to stick needle into garment slightly, this will prevent sts from slipping off needle.

STITCH HOLDERS ... are used to hold sts to be used later. Example: sts at back of neck or when all sts are cast on and worked to armholes, then divided for front and back. The stitch holders can be purchased or a safety pin or length of yarn may be used.

STITCH COUNTERS ... usually placed on knitting needles. They have a dial and after working a row, turn the dial to the next number.

BOBBINS ... usually made of plastic to hold small amounts of yarn for use in making argyle socks or the Fair Isle, Scandinavian or Ski patterns.

GAUGE ... The stitch gauge which appears at the beginning of all instructions is most important to the size and fit of your garment. Before starting, make a sample swatch of the pattern stitch with the needles and yarn specified. If you have MORE sts than gauge use LARGER needles. If you have LESS sts than gauge use SMALLER needles. Check your gauge as you progress to assure a perfectly sized garment, Ill. No. 1.

CASTING ON

Allow about ½ inch for each st for fine yarn and 1 inch for each st for heavy yarn. Make a slip knot on needle, Ill. No. 2. * Hold needle in right hand, hold both lengths of yarn in left hand (see arrows) having short end of yarn under and to outside of thumb and main length of yarn under and to outside of forefinger, Ill. No. 3. Insert needle through loop formed on thumb, pick up yarn on forefinger and draw through loop, Ill. No. 4, let loop drop from thumb and tighten st on right needle with thumb. Repeat from * leaving about ¼ inch between sts until required number of sts have been cast on, Ill. No. 5.

PLAIN KNITTING

Hold needle containing stitches in left hand. Follow arrows. * With yarn in back of work, insert free needle from left to right in front of st, yarn under and over point of needle and draw through st, slip stitch just worked from left needle. Retain new stitch on right needle. Repeat from * until all stitches are on right needle. 2nd Row and Succeeding Rows: Place the needle holding stitches in left hand with free needle in right hand. Insert free needle in 1st stitch and complete same as 1st row.

GARTER STITCH

K each st, K each row.

PURLING

Hold work same as for Knitting, but hold yarn to front of work. Follow arrows. * Insert needle from right to left in front of st, yarn around and in back of point of needle, draw through st having new stitch on right needle, slip stitch off left needle. Repeat from * until all stitches are on right needle.

STOCKINETTE STITCH

Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row when working with 2 needles. K each row when working with a circular needle or on 3 or 4 double pointed needles.

14 Knit Side

15 Purl Side

RIBBING

Ribbing consists of an alternate number of Knit and Purl stitches. In Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbing the number of stitches cast on is usually divisible by 4. 1st ROW: K 2, P 2 across row. In the next row again start with K 2. In ribbing, the smooth sts are knitted, the sts with rough side are purled. In binding off ribbing Knit the Knit sts and Purl the Purl stitches.

TO DECREASE OR NARROW

In Knitting, Knit 2 sts together (Ill. No. 17), in Purling, Purl 2 sts together.

PASS SLIP STITCH OVER (P.S.S.O.)

(another method of decreasing).... In knitting instructions p.s.s.o. means to slip 1 st, K (or P) next st, then pass the slip st over the K (or P) st by inserting left needle into slip st on right needle and passing over the K st on right needle. Follow arrows in illustrations.

TO INCREASE

Knit or Purl 1 st (as directions call for), but do not slip stitch from left needle (Ill. No. 22 & 23). Knit or Purl into back of same st, then slip stitch off needle (Ill. No. 24).

Illustration shows a Knit increase.

YARN OVER....

Unless otherwise instructed when knitting, bring yarn forward and over right needle to back, K next st. When Purling bring yarn over and under right needle and to front, P next st. The yarn over forms a loop on needle which is worked as a stitch, it is used usually for lacy patterns and beadings.

25 Knit

26 Purl

BIND OFF

Do not bind off too tightly.

Knitting: K 2 sts, * pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch: follow arrows (Ill. 27, 28, 29), K next st, repeat from * until one stitch remains on right needle, cut yarn and draw through last st.

PURLING: P 2 sts, * pass 1st stitch over 2nd stitch, P next st, repeat from * until one stitch remains on right needle, cut yarn and draw through last st. Not illustrated.

IN PATTERN: Either Knit or Purl st to be bound off as it would have been worked in corresponding row of pattern, then bind off for knitting or purling whichever pattern calls for. Not illustrated.

TO SLIP A STITCH....

Slip one st from left needle to right needle without knitting or purling inserting the right needle in the st as if to Knit unless otherwise directed. When slipping the stitch leave yarn to the wrong side unless directed otherwise.

PICKING UP STITCHES .... DROPPED ST ...

In stockinette stitch pick up stitch on right side of work. Using a crochet hook, insert hook in dropped st, draw yarn to row above through loop forming a new loop. Continue in this manner until you reach the row being worked being careful not to twist the sts. (Ill. No. 30). PURL sts are picked up by inserting crochet hook through dropped st from in back of sts. (Ill. No. 31). In GARTER STITCH alternate the two movements. RIPPING BACK: Unravel work to within the last row of point desired. Rip the last row a stitch at a time placing each stitch on a free needle, preferably a finer double pointed needle, then place these sts back on size needle you are using. Continue knitting as directed.

PICKING UP STITCHES ...

around neck and armholes is usually done with smaller needles. Hold the work with right side toward you and work from right to left. Insert right needle into the first st from edge, pick up stitches (Ill. No. 32). When picking up stitches on an irregular edge be sure to pick up a stitch in every row. Always work with the right side toward you unless otherwise directed.

BUTTONHOLES

Work to the point specified. Bind off three or more stitches according to directions and work to end of row. In the following row work to the bound off sts and cast on the same number of stitches bound off in previous row and complete row. (Ill. No. 33 and 34).

WEAVING TOE

Cut yarn leaving about a 14 inch length, thread this into a darning needle, * insert needle through first st of first needle as if knitting and slip stitch off needle, pass through next stitch as if purling and leave stitch on needle, draw yarn through first st of back needle as if purling and slip stitch off needle, draw yarn through next stitch of back needle as if knitting and leave stitch on needle, repeat from * until all stitches have been worked, fasten neatly.

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DUPLICATE STITCH

This is the stitch used most often for embroidering a desired motif on a knitted article. It is worked by: * bringing needle through center of stitch from the wrong side to right side of work—see ill. A. Following the outline of the knit stitch above, draw the yarn across the back of the two strands of this stitch—see ill. A and B—return needle to the center of the same stitch—see ill. B—and draw yarn through. Repeat from * starting next stitch by bringing needle through center of stitch to be duplicated—see ill. C.

ILL. A

ILL. B

ILL. C

CHANGING COLORS....

At the end of a row, tie in new color and continue in pattern. In Scandinavian, Fair Isle or Ski patterns the additional colors are carried on the wrong side of work. Designs of this type are usually worked from a chart with a color code. When changing colors always twist yarns around each other to prevent a hole. If color is carried over more than 4 sts, the carried color should be twisted around the yarn that is being worked to prevent loose lengths on wrong side. Twist the yarn in following manner; pick up carried color, before knitting st in usual manner twist over yarn that is carried. Cut colors only when you are through with that color leaving about a 4 or 5 inch length to be fastened later with a yarn sewing needle. If designs to be worked are separated or only 1 design is worked in a corner of garment, use bobbins (see page 6) to work design.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Directions are given for Ladies small (size 12, Bust 32). Changes for Ladies’ Medium (Size 14, Bust 34) and Large (Size 16, Bust 36) are given in parentheses. Men’s small (Size and Chest 38), Medium (Size and Chest 40) and Large (Size and Chest 42) are given in bold face type.

CHANGING SIZES

NOTE: When working with pattern sts ADD or SUBTRACT the multiple of sts or repeats necessary to work one inch of gauge for size desired.

LARGER: (1) For each size larger than given, ADD the number of sts called for in GAUGE to make 1 inch to both back and front cast on sts.

(2) Continue to follow directions given to armhole shaping or desired length to armhole. Bind off 2 sts more for each size larger. Work ¼ inch more in length.

(3) SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 2 sts more each shoulder for each size larger.

(4) SLEEVES: Add 2 sts more in cuff, then 2 sts more in last row of ribbing. Bind off 2 sts more each side at underarm.

SMALLER: (1) For each size smaller than size given, SUBTRACT the number of sts called for in GAUGE equal to 1 inch from both front and back cast on sts.

(2) Continue to follow directions to armhole shaping or desired length to armhole. Bind off 2 sts less for each size smaller. Work ¼ inch less in length for each size smaller.

(3) SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 2 sts less for each size smaller.

(4) SLEEVES: Subtract 4 sts at cuff and bind off 2 sts less each side at underarm.

CHILD’S or IN-BETWEEN SIZE

If child’s garment is desired or if you are not a regular size, work as follows:

(1) Take chest or bust measure. Divide the figure in half (half is front, half is back).

(2) Multiply this figure (the half of chest measure) by sts (or rows) necessary to equal gauge.

(3) Follow directions given, working back and front to desired length to underarm. Work armhole shaping in proportion to directions given. Work armhole desired length. Shape shoulder proportionately to directions being followed. Work sleeves in proportion to added or subtracted sts.

(4) Always have same number of rows on back and front of sweater. Work same amount of rows for both sleeves.

BLOCKING AND FINISHING

Blocking is method used to shape a garment for a “professional look”. Steps to follow:

1—Conceal all ends: run ends through several stitches on wrong side. If yarn is heavy or bulky, split strand and run ends through several stitches.

2—Determine whether garment is to be washed. If so, wash each section separately by hand or machine wash garment according to specific instructions on yarn label or commercial laundering product. Most garments stretch larger when wet. Care, therefore, should be taken in handling wet sections. Squeeze gently in the washing, DO NOT TWIST or WRING. Rinse thoroughly. Place in turkish towel and squeeze out excess moisture. Place on turkish towel to dry. If sections of garment appear to be too big, adjust sections to measure by pushing sections into slight puckers. Puckers will disappear when sections dry.

3—Always use the stitch gauge given as a guide for blocking. Instructions are written for the average in any size, see page 14 for our sizes. Any slight adjustment for individual size should be made in the blocking.

4—After measurements have been determined, place the sections individually and wrong side up on a well padded surface or table. It is sometimes helpful to draw outline on brown paper or heavy tissue paper. With rust proof pins, pin each section to measurement spacing pins about ½ inch apart.

5—Place a wet pressing cloth over a section. Using a rotary motion, hold iron as close as possible to section allowing steam to penetrate, but DO NOT at any time let iron rest on garment. Leave sections on pressing table until thoroughly dry.... Do not hurry this process.

6—Always bear in mind that cables and rib patterns have a tendency to pull in or shrink back. Each section should be blocked about 2 inches more than desired measure, but should NEVER be pressed flat. Also some patterns are especially designed for a textured effect. They too should NEVER be pressed flat. Never press ribbing of cuffs, waistband or neckline.

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7—After all sections have been blocked garment is now ready for finishing. Seams may be woven (see illustrations for weaving lengthwise and crosswise seams) or back stitched (see illustration page 31), or by sewing machine. To weave lengthwise seam: thread tapestry needle with a single strand of matching yarn. Hold lengthwise edges together, right sides up. Insert needle in center of st on right side, pass under two rows and pull yarn through to right side. Insert needle in corresponding row of left side, draw yarn through in same way. Work from side to side in this manner taking care to keep seam elastic, matching rows, patterns, stripes, etc. To weave a crosswise seam: hold crosswise edges together. Starting at right edge, insert needle under two loops of stitch on top section, insert needle down through center of next stitch and up through center of next stitch on lower section. Continue in same manner working alternately into top section and then into lower section until seam is completed taking care to keep seam elastic and matching patterns, etc.

b—Back stitching: place right sides of sections to be seamed together. Pin, keeping edges even and matching rows or patterns. With tapestry needle and matching yarn back stitch close to edge taking care not to draw stitches too tight and keeping seam elastic.

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c—Sewing machine: loosen tension on machine as you would for jersey or any stretchy fabric. Place right sides together and pin. Baste seam being careful not to draw stitches too tight. Remove pins. With matching thread machine stitch seam. If yarn is bulky or fuzzy sew over tissue paper. Remove paper when finished.

8—After garment is all assembled, carefully steam seams flat and even.

TO SHORTEN ...

(No hem desired). Determine length you desire; place a marker. Cut through one st at side seam about 2 rows below marker. * Pick up cut end and draw through several sts, cut this length close as possible to work. This drawn length will tighten sts. After length has been cut straighten edge taking care with loose sts. Place loose sts on free needle. Repeat from * until row has been ripped and sts have been placed on needle. With free needle bind off—or—attach yarn on P side, and with crochet hook work a slip stitch (see page 30) in each st, turn. Work a slip stitch in each st, cut yarn. If a hem is desired, allow for hem and complete same as above. Turn hem to wrong side and tack in place.

TO LENGTHEN ...

(If a sufficient amount of same dye lot is available). Cut off cast on edge in same manner as above. Pick up loose sts and knit to length desired. If there is a ribbing on section to be lengthened, cut into the row above the ribbing, then add to length. If you do not have enough of same dye lot to work garment to length desired, we suggest working a stripe of contrasting color and finishing with same color as garment.

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