| CHAPTER I |
| PAGE |
| Leaves London for Plymouth—The despatch vessel—They take a French prize—The prisoners—An alarm—Cadiz—Malta—Life on board—The Dardanelles—Takes boat for Constantinople | 1 |
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| CHAPTER II |
| Constantinople—Capture of the Black Joke—Life in Constantinople—Its dangers—Friends—Audience of caimacam—Trip up the Bosphorus | 13 |
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| CHAPTER III |
| Constantinople continued—Dangers of sketching—Turkish architecture—A Turkish acquaintance—Society in Constantinople—Visit to the Princes' Islands | 24 |
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| CHAPTER IV |
| Leaves Constantinople—By Troy, Salonica, Mycone, Delos, to Athens—Life in Athens—Acquaintances—Byron, &c. | 40 |
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| CHAPTER V |
| Trip to Ægina—Discovery and transportation of the Marbles to Athens—Efforts to sell them | 49 |
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| CHAPTER VI |
| Life in Athens—Eleusis—Transportation of Ægina Marbles to Zante | 59 |
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| CHAPTER VII |
| Zante—Colonel Church—Leaves Zante to make tour of the Morea—Olympia—BassÆ—Discovery of bas-reliefs—Forced to desist from excavations | 68 |
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| CHAPTER VIII |
| Andritzena—Caritzena—Megalopolis—Benighted—Kalamata | 79 |
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| CHAPTER IX |
| Trip to Maina—Its relative prosperity—Return to Kalamata—Second trip to Maina—Murginos—Sparta—Napoli to Athens | 88 |
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| CHAPTER X |
| Ægina Marbles called for by British Government ships—Leaves Athens for Crete and Egypt with Hon. Francis North—Canea—Condition of Crete—By land—Retimo—Kalipo Christo—Candia—Audience of the pasha—His band—The archbishop—The military commandant—Turkish society—Life in Candia | 102 |
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| CHAPTER XI |
| Expedition to the Labyrinth—Delli Yani—The interior—The return to Candia—Life there—Rejoins Mr. North—Bad weather—Expedition to Egypt abandoned—Scio—Leaves Mr. North to go to Smyrna—Storms—Danger and cold—Arrives at Smyrna | 120 |
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| CHAPTER XII |
| Life in Smyrna—Trip to Trios—Foster falls in love—Cockerell starts alone for town of Seven Churches—Pergamo—Knifnich—Sumeh—Commerce all in the hands of Greeks—Karasman Oglu—Turcomans—Sardis—Allah Sheri—Crosses from Valley of Hermus to that of the Meander—Hierapolis—Danger of the country—Turns westwards | 134 |
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| CHAPTER XIII |
| Back into civilisation—Nasli Bazar—Nysa—Guzul—Hissar (Magnesia)—The plague—Aisaluck (Ephesus)—Scala Nuova—A storm—Samos—Priene—Canna—Geronta—Knidos—Rhodes—Mr. North again—Sails for Patara—Castel Rosso—Cacava—Myra—The shrine of St. Nicolas—Troubles with natives—A water snake—Finica—Carosi—Olympus—Volcanic fire—Phaselis—Falls in with the Frederiksteen | 153 |
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| CHAPTER XIV |
| Adalia—Satalia (SidÉ)—Alaia—Hostility of natives—Selinty—Cape Anemurium—Visit of a pasha—Chelindreh—Porto Cavaliero—Seleucia—A privateer—Natives hostile—Pompeiopolis—Tarsous—A poor reception—Explores a lake—Castle of Ayas—Captain Beaufort wounded by natives—Sails for Malta | 173 |
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| CHAPTER XV |
| Malta—Attacked by bilious fever—Sails to Palermo—Segeste—Leaves for Girgenti—Immigrant Albanians—Selinunto—Travelling with Sicilians—Girgenti—Restores the Temple of the Giants—Leaves for Syracuse—Occupations in Syracuse—Sale of the Ægina Marbles—Leaves for Zante | 199 |
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| CHAPTER XVI |
| Athens—The excavation of marbles at BassÆ—Bronstedt's mishap—Fate of the Corinthian capital of BassÆ—Severe illness—Stackelberg's mishap—Trip to Albania with Hughes and Parker—Thebes—Livadia—The five emissaries—State of the country—Merchants of Livadia—Delphi—Salona—Galaxidi—Patras—Previsa—Nicopolis—Arta—The plague—Janina | 216 |
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| CHAPTER XVII |
| Ali Pasha—Psallida—Euphrosyne—Mukhtar—Starts for a trip to Suli—Cassiopeia—Unable to ford river—Turns back to Janina—Leaves to return to Athens—Crosses the Pindus through the snow—Malakash—A robber—Meteora—Turkish rule—The monastery—By Trikhala, Phersala, Zituni, ThermopylÆ and Livadia to Athens | TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN EUROPE
AND THE LEVANT
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