This morning I wrote a short letter and left it in a post for the company behind. We traveled twenty miles and camped on Bluff Creek. The day fine and very warm. Saturday, October 2This morning we calculated to travel eleven miles, but on arriving at the North Bluff fork, we found no grass and were compelled to continue on. We traveled till the road strikes the river and some grass, then camped, having traveled eighteen and a half miles. Three buffalo have been killed today and there are considerable in this region. Two of the oxen gave out and had to be left on the road. Sunday, October 3This morning we traveled four and a quarter miles, then camped opposite some islands where there is pretty good feed and willows. The day has been exceedingly warm and the brethren have dried a good quantity of meat. Considerable anxiety and feeling has originated in the breasts of two or three brethren in consequence of a rumor being circulated which deeply concerns one individual but it is not known whom. In the evening, a strong north wind blew up which made it turn very cool. Monday, October 4Cool and pleasant. We traveled twenty and three quarters miles and found that the last company have made a new road near the bluffs to avoid a very bad slough. We went a little on the old road and then struck across to the new road but had considerable difficulty in crossing the slough. We camped beside a small lake of not very good water and several miles from timber. Tuesday, October 5Pleasant day. We traveled nineteen miles, then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp near a small bunch of timber. The brethren have killed a good many buffalo today. They are very plentiful here, and wolves abundant. Wednesday, October 6The largest part of the company again concluded to tarry a day again although there is little feed here. Some determined to go on a piece and amongst the rest, I felt more willing to go on than to tarry. Accordingly eleven wagons started, viz. Jackson Redding, William A. Empey, Lewis Barney, Roswell Stevens, Cummings, Joseph Hancock, H. W. Sanderson, John Pack, Thos. Cloward, Zebedee Coltrin and Norton Jacobs. We traveled seventeen and a half miles and then turned off the road about a half a mile to camp. Thursday, October 7We started a little before 10:00 a.m. and traveled till nearly dark and had then to run over a mile from the road to camp. We traveled nineteen and a quarter miles. Wind very strong from the north and a very cold day. Friday, October 8Just as we started this morning, twelve or fifteen Indians were seen running over the river towards us. They soon came up to the wagons which were somewhat scattered and although they shook hands, they showed savage hostility. Four of the oxen were not yet yoked up; these they drove off from the wagons which now began to draw together. They soon satisfied us that they were bent on robbing us and without ceremony took Jack Redding's horse from behind the wagon. Lamb went to take it from them and seized the lariat which another immediately cut with his knife. Lamb then got on the horse, but no sooner on than two Indians pulled him off and marched off with the horse. They stole Jack Redding's knife out of its sheath and one from John Pack. They also tried to get Jack off the horse he was riding, but he kept his seat. They tried Skeen's horse but he kicked one of them over. The Indians then tried to get the men out of their wagons so that they might get in and plunder, but every man kept in his wagon to guard it and we concluded to turn about and go back to the company. We accordingly started and the Indians turned back towards the timber with the horse, four oxen, two knives and a sack of salt. After traveling back about six miles, we met the company, told the story and bore their slang and insults without saying much, but not without thinking a great deal. The whole company were then formed in two lines. All the arms were loaded and each man that could raise a gun was ordered to walk beside the wagons, the horsemen to go ahead. We then proceeded on and when we came opposite to where we met with the Indians, the horsemen went down and found the oxen where we left them. They brought them and we traveled till dark, then camped near the river, having traveled five and a quarter miles from last night, exclusive of the distance we went back. A strong guard was placed around the cattle and camp and kept up through the night. Many hard speeches have passed among the brethren, such as "damned hypocrites," "damned liars," "mutineers," etc., and most of those who started ahead are ordered to travel in the rear all the time. This savage, tyrannical conduct was one thing which induced some to leave and undertake to go through alone and more peaceably and it will still leave feelings of revenge and hatred which will require some time to cover up. Young Babcock shook his fist in Zebedee Coltrin's face and damned him and said he could whip him. For my part, I shall be glad when I get in more peaceable society, and I think I shall not easily be caught in such a scrape again. Saturday, October 9We have had no disturbance from Indians. We started at six o'clock and went on five miles to get better feed. We then halted for breakfast. The remainder of the day's travel was mostly over dog towns. A United States soldier came up to the wagons and went with us a few miles. He says there are ninety of them on the island surveying and looking out a place to build a fort. We traveled seventeen and a quarter miles today, then camped near a low bench of land where there is plenty of grass and water and willows for fuel. A number of the soldiers came over to camp. They say the Pawnees are perfectly enraged and savage and that the worst band of between four and five hundred are on the north side the Platte about forty miles below. Sunday, October 10Morning fine but cold wind. The captains called the camp together and asked whether we shall wait here three days or a week for the twelve, or shall we continue on to Winter Quarters. Thirty men voted to go on, seventeen voted to wait and the remainder did not vote. The majority having voted to go on, we started and traveled very slowly till about five o'clock, then turned off to the river to camp, having traveled sixteen miles. There are many new tracks of Indians on the sand bar, but we have seen none today. Monday, October 11Morning, cloudy and cold. We have had a little very cold rain and there is great appearance for more. We started on but it continued to rain heavily till near noon. The afternoon was fair but very cold. We traveled twenty-one and a quarter miles and camped amongst high grass close to timber. There is every chance for Indians tonight if any are near. The camp in general are much dissatisfied with the camping place. Tuesday, October 12This morning the weather was severely cold with strong wind. Some of the cattle were missing and the owners not going to hunt them till the rest were ready to start on, we were detained till eleven o'clock and then proceeded. We found plenty of water in Wood River but did not lose much time crossing. We took one of the late wagon trails and arrived on Prairie Creek a little before sundown, having traveled fifteen and three quarters miles. We have seen no Indians yet and all goes well but the cold weather. Wednesday, October 13Morning very cold indeed with strong northwest wind. We found the creek difficult to cross, it being soft and miry, but all soon got over safely and we proceeded on. The road is sandy about five or six miles on the bluffs and very crooked all the way. We arrived and camped on the Loup Fork at dark, having traveled twenty-one and three quarters miles. The day has been excessively cold. Thursday, October 14Much time was lost this morning in hunting for a place to cross the river. It was finally concluded to cross a mile higher up and we proceeded to the place. While going up we saw a company of horsemen and two wagons on the other side the river, which we soon recognized to be our brethren from Winter Quarters. All the wagons got over safely and camped on the hill, having traveled two miles. The company is a part of the old police going to meet the next company. We were gladdened with the news they bring from Winter Quarters. Friday, October 15The brethren of the police started early this morning to go on and meet the next company. They got well over the river but not without getting into the water to lift at the wagon wheels. It was late when we started on account of some oxen being missing and there are some who will not look for their cattle till all the rest are ready to start. We traveled till a little after three and camped on the banks of the Loup Fork, distance twelve and three quarters miles, day warmer. Saturday, October 16The night has been very stormy, there being a strong wind, rain, and very cold. We made an early start and by noon arrived at the mission station. We found the Pawnees busy gathering corn, probably nearly a thousand of men, women and children. They soon began to come to the wagons and their chiefs made inquiries by signs about the Chirrarots or Sioux. Some of the brethren gave them to understand that the Sioux were within five days of them. The chief immediately gave the word to the rest and in half an hour the squaws had loaded their corn on ponies and mules and then began to march towards the river. They show great fear of the Sioux. They were very anxious to have us camp with them tonight but we kept moving on. One of the wagons was upset crossing a ravine. Several of the brethren traded for corn. At three o'clock, we arrived and turned out the teams on Beaver River, having traveled seventeen and a quarter miles. Soon after we arrived, some of the Indians came up, having followed with the idea of trading. They have conducted themselves peaceably so far, but they are not to be trusted. In consequence of their following us, it was the feeling of most of the brethren to go on a few miles after dark. At 5:45 we started on and traveled till 8:30 being six and a half miles, then camped beside the lakes. Evening very fine and pleasant. We have traveled twenty-three and three quarters miles today. Sunday, October 17We started early and traveled to Looking Glass, then halted for breakfast. Morning windy and cold. After breakfast, we started on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance sixteen and a quarter miles, then camped at a point of timber near a creek or lake and not far from the Loup Fork. Monday, October 18Started at eight o'clock and traveled to Shell Creek distance eighteen and three quarters miles, day pleasant but cool. Tuesday, October 19The night was excessively cold and this morning there is considerable ice. We got an early start and traveled to where the road leaves the river and crosses to the Horn. At this place there is a liberty pole set up by some of the brethren. We have traveled today twenty-three and a quarter miles and we now find that the grass is all burned off ahead of us as far as we can see, probably to the Elk Horn. We are cheered by a view of the timber on that stream. Wednesday, October 20We started early and found the prairie all burned off to the Elk Horn except in small patches. We arrived at the Horn about noon and soon after commenced crossing where Hosea Stout and company crossed. The water was nearly three feet deep and the bottom somewhat soft, but we were soon all over without accident except John Pack, who broke his wagon tongue. We then had to make a road through high, strong grass for upwards of half a mile and found a very bad creek or slough to cross. When we again struck the main road, we found it good and started for the Papea where we arrived soon after dark, all except one wagon which was left a mile back. The evening cool and windy. Thursday, October 21This morning, Brother Empey, Lamb and myself started early accompanied by six horsemen and arrived in Winter Quarters a little before noon. I found my family all well except Moroni who is very sick and his mother is somewhat sick. Their circumstances are not good, but in other respects they have been prosperous for which I thank my God. There has been much sickness here and many deaths during the fall and many are now suffering for lack of some of the comforts of life. We have been prosperous on our journey home and have arrived in nine weeks and three days, including a week's delay waiting for the twelve and killing buffalo. Our health has been remarkably good, but we have lacked provisions, many of us having nothing but dry buffalo meat. I have succeeded in measuring the whole distance from the City of the Great Salt Lake to this place, except a few miles between Horse Creek and the A La Bonte River which was taken from the measurement going up. I find the whole distance to be 1,032 miles and am now prepared to make a complete traveler's guide from here to the Great Salt Lake, having been careful in taking the distance from creek to creek, over bluffs, mountains, etc. It has required much time and care and I have continually labored under disadvantages in consequence of the companies feeling no interest in it. The health of my family has encouraged me for all that is past and my secret gratitude shall ascend to Heaven for the unbounded kindness and mercies which the Almighty has continually poured upon them in my absence. |