The morning very fine, warm and pleasant. All is still and quiet as a summer's morning, the camp well and in good spirits and a feeling of peace, union and brotherly love seems to dwell in every breast. My mind revolves back upon by-gone days and then to the present, and I truly feel thankful to my God for His mercies to me and for the privilege I now daily enjoy. The idea of dwelling with my family in a land of peace, in the midst of the Saints of God is better felt than described, but the mild, still scenery of this morning puts me in mind of it. At nine o'clock we pursued our journey, the stream we passed over is called by Grosclaude: "The Raw Hide." Elder Kimball let me have his horse to ride. I went in company with George A. Smith who was on foot carrying his gun in fulfillment of President Young's prophecy at the Pawnee Mission station. The wagons went on till half past eleven and then halted for noon. We were about a mile ahead of them. The distance they traveled was four and a half miles. At half past one, started out again and traveled till a little after four o'clock and saw Fort Laramie about four miles to the southwest. Elder Kimball and President Young then came up to where Brother Woodruff and I were looking out for feed and we started on, President Young having stopped the wagons, and went to the ford opposite to the fort. It was finally concluded to form our encampment here on the banks of the river. Several men soon came down from the fort which is about two miles from here and made themselves known as a part of the Mississippi company from Pueblo. They have been here two weeks. It caused us much joy to meet with brethren in this wild region of country and also because we should have some news from the brethren in the army. Luke Johnson being up here with the boat and several others coming up, they got the boat into the river to go over and see the brethren. And Luke Johnson, John Brown, Joseph Mathews and Porter Rockwell started over and about the same time, Presidents Young and Kimball started back to bring the camp up. When the brethren got over the river Brother Brown met several whom he knew and soon returned bringing Brother Crow and his son-in-law over to this side. The brethren seemed pleased to meet us. Brother Crow reports deaths in the Pueblo detachment since Brothers Tippets and Woolsey left, viz. Melcher Oyler, Arnold Stevens. They also state that Soloman Tindall was on the point of death. The other portion of the battalion they had not heard from. The Pueblo brethren are expected to receive their pay and start for this point, at latest by this date, and will probably be here in about two weeks. They also recorded that three traders from the mountains arrived here six days ago, having come from Sweet Water in six days and nights. They traveled day and night with horses and mules to prevent their starving to death as there is no feed up there. Two of their oxen had died already, etc. The snow was two feet deep at Sweet Water when they left, so that we are evidently plenty soon enough for feed. At 5:45 the wagons arrived and formed encampment on the banks of the river in the form of a V, having traveled this afternoon, seven and a half miles and during the day, twelve, making a total from Winter Quarters to Fort Laramie 543¼ miles and we have traveled it in seven weeks lacking a half a day, but we have traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have arrived so far on our journey without accident except the loss of two horses by Indians and two killed. We have been prosperous on our journey, the camp are all in better health than when we left Winter Quarters and we see daily that the Lord blesses us and directs the movements of this camp as seemeth Him good and as is for our good and prosperity. The road today has been mostly sandy and heavy on teams with but little feed in any place. The country begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance. Some of the Black Hills show very plain from here. The timber is mostly ash and cottonwood on the low bottoms near the river. There is some cedar on the bluffs. In one of the large ash trees in the middle of the camp is an Indian babe or papoose. It cannot be said to be buried, but deposited, being first wrapped with a skin and then tied between two of the highest limbs of the tree. This is said to be the way they bury their dead. The bark is all peeled off the tree below, I suppose to prevent the wolves from getting up.

Wednesday, June 2

The morning pleasant. About nine o'clock started over the river in company with the Twelve and others to view the fort and also learn something in regard to our journey, etc. Elder Pratt measured the distance across the river at this spot and found it to be 108 yards. The water is deep in the channel and the current runs about four miles an hour. After crossing we went up to the remains of an old fort called Fort Platte which is near the banks of the river, the outside walls still standing, but the inside is in ruins, having been burned up. The walls are built of adobes or Spanish brick, being large pieces of tempered clay dried in the sun and apparently laid one on another without mortar or cement. The dimensions of this fort outside are 144 feet east to west, and from north to south 103 feet. There is a large door fronting to the south which has led to the dwellings which have been fourteen in number, built in the form of a parallelogram, leaving a large space in the center. The space occupied by the dwelling is not quite half of the whole fort. Fronting to the east is another large door which opens upon a large open space 98¾ feet by 47 feet where it is supposed they used to keep horses, etc. At the northwest corner is a tower projecting out from the line of the walls six feet each way, or, in other words it is twelve feet square with port holes for cannon. At the northeast corner has been another projection extending eastward 29½ feet and is 19½ feet wide. The walls are 11 feet high and 30 inches thick. We took the dimensions of this with a tape line and then proceeded to Fort Laramie about two miles farther west. This latter fort was first built of wood about thirteen years since, and named Fort William, but being destroyed was afterwards built seven years ago with adobes and named John. It stands on the bank of the Laramie fork. Laramie fork is a stream forty-one yards wide, a very swift current, but not deep. We tarried a little while with the Mississippi brethren who have camped close by the fort and then went inside. We were politely welcomed by Mr. Bordeau who appears to be the principal officer. He conducted us up a flight of stairs into a comfortable room and being furnished with seats, we rested ourselves. President Young and others entered into conversation with Mr. Bordeau. From him we learned that we cannot travel over four miles farther on the north side the Platte before we come to bluffs which cannot be crossed with loaded wagons. The road is better on this side than the one we have traveled, it being hard and not sandy. Feed scarce mostly lying in little patches near the river. They send their furs to Fort Pierre on the Missouri river a distance of 400 miles by land and receive all their stores and provisions back by the same teams, except their meat which they kill, there being buffalo within two days' drive. They have tried making a garden and planting corn which did well enough the first year, but afterwards they could raise nothing for want of rain. They have had no rain for two years until a few days ago. They have got a flat boat which will carry two wagons easily which we can have for fifteen dollars or he will ferry us over for $18.00 or 25c a wagon. From the door of this room one can see the same black hill seen on Sunday evening and which is Laramie Peak. We could see the snow lying on it very plainly. We can also see several ranges of high hills in the distance which are no doubt parts of the Black Hills. We went across the square to the trading house which lies on the north side of the western entrance. The trader opened his store and President Young entered into conversation with him. They trade solely with the Sioux. The Crows come here for nothing but to steal. A few weeks ago a party came down and stole twenty-five horses, all that they had at the fort, although they were within 300 yards of the fort at the time and a guard around them. The Sioux will not steal on their own land. A pair of moccasins are worth a dollar, a lariat a dollar, a pound of tobacco a dollar and a half, and a gallon of whiskey $32.00. They have no sugar, coffee or spices as their spring stores have not yet arrived. They have lately sent to Fort Pierre, 600 bales of robes with ten robes in each bale. Their wagons have been gone forty-five days, etc. The blacksmith shop lies on the south side of the western entrance. There are dwellings inside the fort beside that of Mr. Bordeau's. The south end is divided off and occupied for stables, etc. There are many souls at this fort, mostly French, half-breeds, and a few Sioux Indians. Elder Pratt measured the river and found it forty-one yards. He also took the latitude which was 42° 12' 13". Brother Bullock told me that several of the brethren had picked up a number of beads off the ant hills. Curiosity led me to go and examine and I found it even so. It appears that the ants gather all the small pebbles they can carry and build them over their hills to prevent the strong winds from blowing them away, and amongst the rest, they picked up beads which have been lost off the Indians' moccasins and robes, etc. I picked up quite a number. Brother Bullock and I took the dimensions of the fort which will be given in another place. We then got on board the boat and had a pleasant ride about three miles down the Laramie fork to its mouth, the current being very swift. At the mouth, the brethren mostly got on shore and towed the boat up to camp. After dinner I went over again in the cutter which was going to fish with the seine in the Laramie fork. They caught sixty or seventy small fish, salmon, suckers, etc. About six o'clock we returned to camp. The Twelve have decided that Amasa Lyman shall go with Brothers Woolsey, Tippets and Stevens to Pueblo. They start tomorrow. Longitude at Fort Laramie 104° 11' 53". I have seen three birds here which very much resemble the English magpie in size, shape and color, in fact I know of no difference between the two. We passed a number of currant bushes about four miles back, quite thick with young, green currants. On the morning of the 4th of June, I put up a guide board on the north side of the river at the ferry with the following inscription on it, viz. Winter Quarters 543¼ miles, junction of the forks 227½ miles. Ash Hollow 142¼ miles, Chimney Rock 70¼ miles, Scott's Bluffs 50½ miles. Wm. Clayton, June 4, 1847. Elder Pratt took the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4,090 feet above the level of the sea. Fremont makes 4,470, differing 380 feet.

Thursday, June 3

The morning cold with strong southeast wind. The first division commenced ferrying over the river at five o'clock and took a wagon over every fifteen minutes. After breakfast I went over and wrote a letter for Elder Kimball to James Brown at Pueblo, then walked up to a high bluff on the northwest to view the country, but not being able to see far from it, I went to another over a mile farther northwest. Although this last was very high I could see nothing but a succession of high ranges of bluffs as far as I could see, except the narrow space through which the river winds its course. Seeing some heavy thunder clouds rising very rapidly from the northwest I returned to camp and arrived just before the rain commenced. Elders A. Lyman, Thomas Woolsey, John H. Tippets and Roswell Stevens started at 11:15 on horses and mules for Pueblo. President Young, Kimball, Richards and Pratt accompanied them to the Laramie fork and then held a council, kneeled down and dedicated them to God and blessed them. The four then forded the river and went on their journey, the others returned to camp. At half past 1:00 p.m. it commenced raining heavily accompanied by hail, lightning and very loud thunder, which lasted till 3:30 p.m. During the storm, the horses were mostly secured in the old fort. The ferrying ceased till it was fair again, and about five o'clock the first division were all over. The boat was then manned by the second division, John S. Higbee, captain. They averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes and one in ten minutes and one in ten minutes and twenty seconds. The quickest trip made by the first division was thirteen minutes. About seven o'clock it commenced raining again from the southeast and rained heavily, consequently the brethren quit ferrying, leaving three companies of about fifteen wagons on the other side. All the wagons would have been taken over today if it had not been stormy.

There is a report come in that there are 2,000 wagons on the road to Oregon, but a little distance behind, but we are satisfied the report is exaggerated. There are eighteen wagons camped about three miles below and one of the men who has come to the fort says that they have counted over 500 wagons. They have lost four horses by the Indians.

Friday, June 4

Morning very fine. Laramie peak shows very plain. The brethren commenced ferrying at 4:40 a.m., and at eight o'clock the last wagon was over. I walked up to a high bluff with Carlos Murray and picked up some stalactites clear as crystal supposed to be isinglass. The bluff is very high and almost perpendicular and it is dangerous to get to the crystals.

At nine o'clock President Young, Kimball, W. Richards, A. P. Rockwood and T. Bullock walked up to Fort Laramie and returned soon after eleven o'clock. They have learned very favorable reports about Bear River Valley, being well timbered, plenty of good grass, light winters, little snow and abundance of fish, especially spotted trout, in the streams. About half past eleven o'clock Brother Crow's company came down and joined in with the second division and at twelve we started on our journey again, following the Oregon road. We traveled three miles and at 20 minutes past 1:00, halted near some good grass to let our teams feed. The weather is very warm though many light clouds are flying. The bluffs come near the river and are very high, steep, and look like sand. During the halt I went up on a very high bluff near by with my glass. I found it very difficult of ascent. From the top I could see Laramie peak very plainly and also some hills a long way off to the northwest. The country looks very hilly as far as can be seen and the snow on the peak shows quite plain. At half past two we continued our journey and found the road sandy and very uneven. At the distance of seven and three quarters miles from Fort Laramie we descended a very steep pitch or hill. All the wagons had to be locked and we were some time getting down. We went on half a mile farther and formed our encampment in a circle at half past five, having traveled eight and a quarter miles today. At half past five we had a shower accompanied by a little lightning and heavy thunder. I will now give the list of names of Brother Crow's company who have joined the camp today to go with this pioneer camp. They are as follows:

Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, Elizabeth Jane Crow, John McHenry Crow, Walter H. Crow, Geo. W. Therlkill, Matilla Jane Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, James William Therlkill, William Parker Crow, Isa Vinda Exene Crow, Ira Minda Almarene Crow, Archibald Little, James Chesney and Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number, making the total number of souls in this pioneer camp, after deducting four gone to Pueblo, 161.

Lewis B. Myers is represented as knowing the country to the mountains, having traveled it, and I am told that he came as a guide to Brother Crow. They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four oxen, twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves.

Inasmuch as there have been some changes in horses and mules, I will endeavor to state them and give the number we started with from Fort Laramie. Two horses killed by accident. Two horses stolen by the Pawnees at Gravel creek; one mule traded for a pony by Brother Markham; three horses and one mule gone with the brethren to Pueblo; one horse traded by O. P. Rockwell for three cows and two calves; one horse traded by John Pack for three buffalo robes; one horse traded by T. Brown for a pony at Laramie; one pony traded by J. S. Higbee to the Sioux for a pony. These changes with the addition made by Brother Crow's company make the number as follows: horses 95, mules 51, head of oxen 100, cows 41, bulls 3, calves 7, dogs and chickens, and 77 wagons and 1 cart.

Saturday, June 5

The morning pleasant though somewhat cloudy. Elder Kimball gave George Billings a lecture about abusing his team, kicking them, etc. He gave George some very good advice. The horn sounded early to start but we were detained till half past eight on account of several oxen being missing. About that time they were found and we pursued our journey. After traveling a little over four miles we ascended a steep bluff. The road runs on the top of it a little distance in a very crooked direction, the surface in some places being hard, uneven rock, which shakes and jars the wagons very much. In one place there is a little descent and at the bottom a very sharp turn in the road over rough rock. Here Brother Crow's cart turned over. However, it was soon righted and no injury done to anything. At the west foot is a steep, sandy descent but not difficult. The bluff is a half a mile across. About a half a mile from the west foot we turned from the river nearly a west course and crossed a low gravelly channel where it appears the river has run sometime and perhaps does now in high water.

The road after this is considerably crooked and uneven. About a mile and a quarter farther we descended again on the same gravelly channel and traveled up it a piece and at 11:35 halted for noon opposite a very large spring noticed by Fremont. The water of this spring is very clear and soft, but considerably warmer than the river water. We have traveled this morning six and a half miles. Just as we halted, two men came down from the other road on mules to water. They are in company with eleven wagons and bound for west of the mountains. They say the other road from Laramie is only ten miles to the spring while our road has been 14¾ miles. About a half an hour after we stopped, we had a nice shower. The 1st division halted about a quarter of a mile back from here. Latitude at the warm springs 42° 15' 6". While we were halting, the company above referred to passed down the bluffs and went ahead of us. They have got many cows, etc., with them. At 1:40 p.m. we resumed our journey. After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow pass to the northwest between two high bluffs and traveled a quarter of a mile farther, then came to where the road rises a very high, steep bluff. At the foot is a short sudden pitch and then a rugged ascent for a quarter of a mile. The bluff is rocky and many large cobble stones lay in the road which made it hard on teams. Appleton Harmon took one of his yoke of cattle and assisted George Billings to the top and Brother Johnson took Appleton's steers and put them forward of his and brought up his wagon. Appleton and Johnson then took the three yoke of oxen and fetched up Appleton's wagon which threw us nearly in the rear of all the wagons, none of the rest doubling teams. After arriving on the top the road was good but still rising for a quarter of a mile farther. We traveled on this high land five and a quarter miles which was very good traveling although it was considerably rolling. Four and a half miles from the top of the last mentioned bluff, we passed a large lone rock, standing far away from any other. At five and a quarter miles we descended again from the bluff, the descent being steep and lengthy but sandy and good to travel. At the foot of the bluff we again crossed the gravelly channel and traveled on and alongside about a mile, then descended a little to the bottom prairie again. At 6:30 we formed our encampment on the west bank of a small stream and near a very good spring of cold water, having traveled this afternoon 10½ miles and during the day seventeen.

I have put up two guide boards today. One at 10 and the other at 20 miles from Fort John or Laramie, but the former name is on the guide boards. The bluffs we have passed today are mostly very high, rocky and broken, with pine growing on most or nearly all of them. We have pretty good feed here and plenty of wood and good water. The gentile camp is a little east of us. They say that there were two more companies arrived at Fort Laramie this morning as they left, and three other companies within twenty miles of Laramie. They left this morning. They left Independence on the 22nd of April. They are expecting the mail soon on mules, but they anticipate keeping ahead of all the companies. We find the road very crooked, but not bad traveling. About dark it rained some, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The camp was notified that tomorrow will be a day for fasting and prayer as last Sunday.

Sunday, June 6

Morning cloudy, cool, and like for rain. At eight o'clock the eleven wagons passed us again. At nine the brethren assembled for prayer meeting a little from the camp, but many kept about their wagons, some washing and some at other things. At eleven o'clock, four Missourians came up mounted, being part of a company a little behind. Some of these are recognized by the brethren and they seem a little afraid and not fond of our company. They say the old settlers have all fled from Shariton, Missouri, except two tavern keepers, and I feel to wish that their fears may follow them even to Oregon. At half past eleven just as the brethren again assembled for meeting it commenced raining hard, accompanied by lightning and heavy thunder which caused the meeting to break up abruptly. During the storm, the Missouri company passed by us, having nineteen wagons and two carriages. Most of their wagons have five yoke of cattle to each, and few less than four. They have many cows, horses and young cattle with them. They have a guide with them who lives on the St. Mary's River at the Columbia. He says we shall find water again about six miles from here and then no more for fifteen miles farther. It was then considered wise to move on this afternoon as we cannot well reach the second watering place in one day. Soon after twelve o'clock the weather cleared off, the sun shone and looks like for being fine. The wind blows strong from the west. At half past 2:00 p.m. the camp began to move forward. About three quarters of a mile we crossed the same small stream again, and two miles further arrived at a sudden bend in the road to the south about two hundred yards and then as sudden to the north the same distance occasioned by the water having washed a deep gulf where the road ought to run. A mile beyond this the wagons came to a halt in a body of timber and brushwood at four o'clock, and halted while the brethren on horseback, viz. Elder Young, Kimball and Woodruff, went ahead to look for a camping ground. They returned at 4:40 and the camp proceeded on. Having proceeded a quarter of a mile we passed the camp of the nineteen wagons close by the timber a little south of the road. Several of the men came to look at the roadometer, having heard from some of the brethren that we had one. They expressed a wish to each other to see inside and looked upon it as a curiosity. I paid no attention to them inasmuch as they did not address themselves to me. At a quarter past 5:00 p.m. we formed our encampment in an oblong circle, at the foot of a low bluff on the west and close by water, having traveled five miles. The feed here is very good and plentiful. Wind strong from the west. Road very crooked, mostly a southwest and west course. There is plenty of timber all along and the soil looks good on the low lands. One of the men in the company of the nineteen wagons told G. A. Smith that he had broken his carriage spring and seemed much troubled to know what to do to get along. He asked George if there was any man in our company who could fix it. George told him there was. After we were camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and welded the spring ready to put on before dark.

Monday, June 7

Morning fine. Elder Pratt gave me some instructions on the use of the sextant and showed me how to take an observation. He has promised to teach me to take observations and calculate latitude and longitude and I intend to improve the opportunity. At 6:30 the Missouri company passed through again. And at ten minutes past seven we commenced our onward course. Dr. Richards left a letter in a guide board 30¼ miles to Fort John. I walked about five miles mostly in company with Elder Pratt conversing on astronomy and philosophical subjects. Elder Kimball then let me have his horse to ride. We traveled till eleven o'clock and then halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream and spring of clear water, having traveled 7¾ miles, mostly a north of northwest course. The road more even and good traveling. Soon after we halted, another company of Missourians passed us, having thirteen wagons and mostly four yoke of oxen to each. They say they are from Andrew County, Missouri. At 12:35 we moved forward. At a quarter of a mile began to ascend a bluff which was a quarter of a mile from the bottom to the top, the ascent gradual and tolerably steep. From the top of this hill we had as pleasant a view of the surrounding country as I have ever witnessed. Laramie peak appears only a few miles to the southwest, and from that around to the west, north, and northeast, a very extensive view of a beautiful country for many miles, indeed, as far as the eye could survey. From a fair view of the peak I am satisfied that the Black Hills, of which this is a prominent part, are so named from the vast forests of pine trees covering their surface and being of a dark green color within a few miles of them. The pine grows in the most rocky places and abounds on the highest hills, while on the lower bluffs it is sparsely scattered and in the bottom land, which looks rich and good, there are none. We have passed many noble trees and there is no lack of good pine timber in this region. The peak is very high, and very broken and craggy, the snow still lying on its summit and plainly visible with the naked eye. The ridge over which we passed was a half a mile over from the southeast to the northwest foot. At that distance we began to descend and had to lock the wagons in several places. The descent was rendered unpleasant by the many large cobble stones scattered in the road. Many of the brethren threw them out of the road as we went along and the road is much improved. They have also dug down some places and leveled others, which will make the road much better for other companies. At half past three we arrived at Horse Creek and formed our encampment on the bottom land near the timber or rather in the midst of a grove of ash, cottonwood, etc., having traveled five and a quarter miles this afternoon over crooked road and during the day, thirteen miles. On this camp ground is one of the clearest and largest springs of water I have seen for a long time. Elder Kimball having discovered it, he calls it his spring or Heber's spring. The creek is also clear and said to have trout in it. The feed is much better and more plentiful than we have ever met with on this journey. There is abundance of wild mint and sage growing here; the mint seems to perfume the air. The sage grows in abundance on all this sandy land. There are also many wild currant bushes in full bloom and prickley pears all along the road. The other companies were all within two miles when we arrived here, but mostly going on a few miles farther. A little before we stopped, we had a thunder storm which lasted upwards of an hour. During the latter part of it, it rained very heavily accompanied by hail and thunder and lightning. Our hunters have killed a long-tailed deer and an antelope, which were distributed as usual. Brother Crow's hunter also killed a deer, but they are unwilling to conform to the rules of the camp in dividing and reserve it all to themselves. Brother Crow observed that if they got more than they could use they would be willing to let the camp have some. Some of the other companies killed an antelope, took off the quarters and left the balance on the ground. Brother Pack picked it up and brought it along. After we stopped Brother Crow came near meeting with an accident while endeavoring to yoke up a pair of wild steers. It took a number of men to hold them, having lariats on their saddle-horns. They got the lariats entangled round their legs and Brother Crow also, throwing one of the steers down and he fast with it. They cut the rope and he was liberated without injury. Myers, the hunter, roasts the young antlers of the deer and eats them. In regard to Brother Crow's meat, etc., I afterwards learned that the whole family had to depend on Myers for what they eat, having no bread stuff, nor anything only what he kills, and the little flour and meal paid to him for a part of the ferryage, he having a small claim on Bordeau. After supper, walked out with Elder Kimball and was joined by George A. Smith. Brother Smith told me of a good opportunity of sending a letter to my family by some traders who are expected down every day and I feel to improve the opportunity. We had a very strong wind at night, so much that I could not write.

Tuesday, June 8

Morning fine though cool. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey crossing the Horseshoe creek, which is about a rod wide. We traveled two and a quarter miles, winding around the foot of high bluffs and then began to ascend them. We found this ascent the worst we have ever had, being three quarters of a mile up, and having in that distance seven very steep rises. On most of them the teams had to double. We saw a buffalo about a half a mile to the south which is the first we have seen since about the 21st of May. Two and a half miles from the east foot of the last bluff we passed over a small creek, nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff but not nearly so bad a rise as the other one. At 11:45 we halted for noon near a very small creek with but little water in it, having traveled six and three quarters miles over hills and valleys, the roads being very crooked. About half an hour before we halted, Harriet Crow got run over with one of their wagons. The teams had stopped near the descent from the bluffs and she stepped on the wagon tongue to get a drink. The cattle started suddenly, threw her under the wheel which passed over her leg below the knee and downwards, passing over her foot above the toes. She screamed and appeared in great agony. We thought her leg was broken, but were soon satisfied to the contrary. Her foot was badly bruised but I think there was nothing broken. One of the women washed it with camphor. She was then put into a wagon and we proceeded on. Latitude 42° 29' 58".

At 1:40 we proceeded. After traveling a little over a mile and a half we passed another small creek, and again ascended a high bluff. We found this ridge more uneven than the other, it being a perfect succession of hills and hollows for five miles. The road was good and hard. While traveling on the top the wind blew very strong from the west and it was so cold that we suffered some. The road over was indeed very crooked but mostly bending to the north. We could see a long distance from the top. The country to the north looks more even but south and southwest very hilly and broken. At five miles we began to descend gradually, and while watching the roadometer I discovered it did not work right which made me pay more attention to it. At ten minutes past six we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and nearly two feet deep with a very swift current. It is named on Fremont's map as La Bonte river. We formed our encampment on the west bank in the timber having traveled this afternoon 8¾ miles and during the day 15½. The evening is very cold and much appearance of rain. Porter Rockwell has killed a deer and someone else an antelope. Porter says he has been on the Platte which is about four miles from here following the La Bonte. Soon after we stopped, the men came into camp who were expected to carry a letter. They are camped about a mile west of us. I finished my letter to my family by candle light, as it is contemplated to start in the morning before breakfast and go a few miles to better feed.

Wednesday, June 9

Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill. At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast. There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass. The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous, to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.

At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long. It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide, two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs killed an antelope and a deer.

Thursday, June 10

The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope. There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey. Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands, making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good, rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it. The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter. The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.

Friday, June 11

Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass, good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct. William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100 miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile, we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked. At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber. These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during the day.

Saturday, June 12

Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc. A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at $2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting. He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.

Sunday, June 13

The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc. The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain, having killed a deer.

Monday, June 14

Morning cloudy and cool. At four o'clock the first division commenced ferrying their goods over the river in the cutter and some time afterwards commenced taking the wagons across on a raft which proved to be very slow work. The second division also began to take their goods over on a raft but the current was so strong they only took two loads over in it and then quit. The second division then got a rope stretched across the river from shore to shore and lashing two wagons fast together to keep them from rolling over, they dragged them over by the rope, letting them drift with the current to save breaking the rope. When the wagons struck on the sand on the other side the upper one keeled over, and finally rolled over the other one, breaking the bows considerably and losing iron, etc., in the wagon to the amount of $30.00 belonging to John Pack. The other wagon had the reach broken and some of the bows. They next lashed four wagons together abreast and dragged them over the same way. All got over well except the upper one which turned on its side, but it was righted again without damage. They next tried one wagon alone, but as soon as it got into the current it rolled over and over, breaking the bows pretty badly. The plan of taking one wagon at a time on a raft is the safest, no accident having occurred with it and the wagons got over dry but it is very slow and would take us three or four days to get all the wagons across. The wind blows strong from the southwest which is much to our disadvantage. At 3:30 we had a very heavy thunder storm. The rain was heavy indeed, accompanied by hail and as strong a wind as I ever witnessed. After the storm was over the ferrying was continued, getting my trunk, etc., and the loads in Brother Johnson and Harmon's wagons over, and also Harmon's wagon, Johnson's being got over just before the storm. It took till nearly ten o'clock to get the loading into the wagons and get regulated. The river has been rising all day and has risen very fast since the storm. The men have tried hard, much of the time being in the water and sometimes up to their armpits which is very fatiguing indeed. When they quit at night the first division had got eleven wagons over, the second division twelve, making twenty-three wagons after a very hard day's labor. There was no difficulty in getting the freight over for one man can carry it in the cutter faster than all the rest of the camp can get the wagons over.

Tuesday, June 15

The morning fine but very windy. The brethren continued ferrying wagons over on the raft and also built two other rafts. The wind being so high they could not get along very fast. In the afternoon they commenced driving over some of the horses and cattle belonging to Brother Crow's company. They neglected to take the lariats off the horses and the buffalo horse was soon seen to be drowning. Some of the men immediately went to it with the skiff and dragged him to the shore but could not succeed in bringing him to life. His natural make seemed to hurt him from swimming. The rest all got over safely. The cattle got over safely also; the current was very strong, the wind high and the river rising which made it look dangerous to swim the cattle across. It was concluded today to leave several brethren here to make a boat and keep a ferry till the next company comes up. By that means they will probably make enough to supply a large company with provisions. We have learned from a Missourian that there is a large company of emigrants coming up on the north side of the Platt above Grand Island. There are doubtless some of our brethren and if so they will probably reach us before we get through. The day continued windy and somewhat inclined to storm, but they succeeded in getting nearly twenty wagons over before night.

Wednesday, June 16

The morning fine but strong west wind. The brethren continue ferrying. A company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which they intend to build a boat to be used here till the next company comes up. Another company also went about half a mile up the river to make slabs or puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before dark the brethren returned from below with two good canoes twenty-five feet long each and nearly finished and ready to put together. The ferrying continued all day but with great difficulty on account of the strong wind blowing down stream. When they started over with Brother Goddard's wagon the wind was blowing strong. James Craig and Wordsworth were on the raft with poles and when they got nearly half way across Brother Craig's pole stuck in the sand and threw him overboard. He swam back to shore and in spite of Brother Wordsworth's exertions, the wind and current carried the raft about two miles down the river. It was finally landed by the help of the cutter and without accident. They have had three rafts working today, two of which they now work by oars which are proving to be far superior to poles in this strong current. At the close of day there were still a number of wagons on the south shore. Those which had been brought over could not be easily counted on account of their being scattered all along the banks of the river for about a mile in length. It was now contemplated to leave a company of brethren at this ferry to ferry over the gentile companies for a dollar and a half a load till the next company of our brethren arrive. This is the object for which the new boat is being built. They will thus earn a good stock of provisions for themselves and be prepared to set the brethren of the next company over without delay and will also be able to preserve the boat for our use, for it is the instructions of the President that when they have ferried our brethren over to cache the boat and come on with them.

Thursday, June 17

The morning fine but windy and cold. The brethren renewed the ferrying early and soon after noon they had got the last wagon safely over which was a matter of rejoicing to all the camp. Two companies of the Missourians had arrived and made application to be set over at a dollar and a half a load. When the contract was made with the first company to be sent across as soon as our wagons were over, the other company of ten wagons offered to pay the brethren 50c per man extra if they would set them over first, making $5.00 over the stated price for ferriage being ten of the brethren to work at it. Colonel Rockwood had made a contract to the above effect with the first company and did not like to break it. However, he received a hint that this was Colonel Markham's day for the use of the boat and consequently Colonel Markham had a right to take the last offer if he chose. He took the hint and they went to work forthwith at a dollar and a half a wagon in provisions at Missouri prices and 50c extra per man in what they preferred for themselves. The afternoon and evening was very cold indeed with a very strong wind. After President Young and Kimball got their wagons over, being about the last, orders were given for the camp to come together and form the wagons in a circle near the ferry. It took till near dark before all the wagons got up. The ferrying was continued all night and till daylight at which time many of the Missourians' wagons in the two companies were over.

Friday, June 18

Morning very cold and windy. The brethren continued working at the new boat, others continued ferrying the Missourians' wagons over. It was concluded not to start today but wait and assist in finishing the boat and also to take the provisions on which will be realized from these two companies. After dinner, I went with brother Pack to fish in the last creek we crossed about a mile and a half distance. We found the fish numerous and had good luck. I caught sixty-five very nice ones which would average half a pound weight each. About six o'clock I started back but found I had got more than I could easily carry to camp. However, when I got about half way, Brother Cloward met me and helped to carry them. We arrived at the camp about sundown pretty well tired. The afternoon was very warm and pleasant. When we arrived the Twelve and some others were going to council. I went with them. The names of those who are appointed to tarry were read over as follows: Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, Appleton Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William Empey, James Davenport, and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas Grover was appointed captain. The President then referred to Brother Glines who was wishful to stay but the president said he had no council for him to tarry, but he might do as he had a mind to. Some explanations followed by Glines, but the unanimous feeling of the brethren was to have him go on. The President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young elders. He represented them as being continually grasping at things ahead of them which belong to others. He said the way for young elders to enlarge their dominion and power is to go to the world and preach and then they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord with them, etc. The letter of instructions was then read and approved by the brethren and the council was then dismissed.

Saturday, June 19

Morning fine but cool. At 7:50 the camp started out again in good health and spirits and the teams in very good order. It was remarked by several that their stock had fattened so much while stopping at the ferry, they hardly knew them. The grass appears to be rich and good. The first six miles of the road was nearly in a west direction over several considerably high bluffs. At that distance the road turns suddenly to the south and rises up a very high bluff which is upwards of a mile from the foot to the summit. There is some interesting scenery on the top of this bluff, especially a range of rough, coarse, sandy rocks of a dark brown color, rising abruptly above the surface of the land in huge masses and ranging east and west. The descent on the south side was rough, crooked and uneven, and about half way down was a bed of white earth mixed with black in places and others yellow. In one place you can pick up small fragments of rock of each color within a yard of each other. Towards the foot, the road is still more uneven and there are several steep pitches and rises. At one o'clock we halted for noon on a spot of good grass about a quarter of a mile from a small spring which is the first water we have come to since leaving the ferry which is eleven and a quarter miles. There is no timber nearer than the bluffs probably two miles away and that is small cedar and little of it. The Red Buttes are nearly opposite to this place towards the southeast and appear to be two high bluffs of red earth or sand, presenting a very triangular, yet interesting appearance. After stopping about an hour it was decided to move on to the spring and we started accordingly and found it to be a small stream of water rising out of the quick sands. At the distance of twelve miles from the ferry there is quite a lake of water supposed to be supplied by a spring. Indeed we could see the water boil up out of the mud in several places. The grass on the banks of this lake is good and plentiful but no timber within two miles or upwards. After watering teams at the lake, at ten minutes to three we continued our journey, bearing near a southwest course over rolling prairie. At the distance of eight miles from the spring there is a steep descent from a bluff and at the foot there is a high ridge of sharp pointed rocks running parallel with the road for near a quarter of a mile, leaving only sufficient space for wagons to pass. At the south point there is a very large rock lying close to where the road makes a bend, making it somewhat difficult to get by without striking it. The road is also very rough with cobble stones. At 7:40 we formed our encampment in a small spot surrounded by high bluffs, having traveled this afternoon ten and a quarter miles and during the day twenty-one and a half which is the longest distance we have traveled in one day since we left Winter Quarters, and this is considered by all to be the worst camping ground we have had on the journey, but we were obliged to take it for there is neither wood, grass, nor water since we left the spring. The land being perfectly sandy and barren, and nothing growing but wild sage and a small prickly shrub something like those on the moors in Lancashire, England. There is some grass in this place for our teams but no wood. The brethren have to make use of the wild sage and buffalo chips to do their cooking. There are two small streams of water, one appears to come from the northwest and is not very bad water; the other is from the southwest and is so bad that cattle will not drink it. It is strong of salt or rather saleratus and smells extremely filthy. Its banks are so perfectly soft that a horse or ox cannot go down to drink without sinking immediately nearly overhead in thick, filthy mud, and is one of the most horrid, swampy, stinking places I ever saw. It was found necessary to keep a guard out to prevent the cattle from getting into it and orders were given to drive them down a little east where feed is pretty good and it is not so dangerous of their miring. The mosquitoes are very bad indeed at this place which adds to the loathsome, solitary scenery around. Porter Rockwell returned from hunting soon after we had camped and reported that he had killed a fat buffalo about two miles off. A team was sent to fetch in the meat which they did not return till long after dark. Elder Kimball saw six buffalo while riding ahead to look out a camp ground. They are represented as being more tame. Myers killed two buffalo, but took only the tallow and tongues and left the rest to rot on the ground. John Norton and Andrew Gibbons left the camp at the springs and went out to hunt, expecting we should stay there till Monday. Gibbons has not been seen or heard of since. Norton has returned and reports that he has killed a buffalo and left it back not far from the spring. About nine o'clock there was an alarm that an ox had mired. He was nearly covered but soon got out again.

Sunday, June 20

Morning fine, mosquitoes very bad. Two more oxen found almost buried in the mud and all hands appeared wishful to leave this place and at a quarter past five o'clock we moved out. The first mile was bad traveling, there being several steep pitches in the road making it dangerous for axletrees. A number of the brethren went ahead with picks and spades and improved the road somewhat. After traveling three and three quarters miles we halted for breakfast at seven o'clock beside a small clear stream of spring water about a foot wide, but plenty for camping purposes. The feed on its banks good and plentiful but no wood yet. Elder Kimball states that when he and Elder Benson were riding ahead last evening to look out a camping ground they came within a quarter of a mile of this place but were not near enough to discover the water. A while before they arrived here, as they were riding slowly along, they saw six men suddenly spring up from the grass to the left of the road. The men were clothed in blankets some white and some blue and had every appearance of being Indians and the brethren thought they were Indians. The six mounted their horses and started on in a direction parallel with the road. The brethren also kept on their course. In a little while one of the supposed Indians left the rest and rode towards the brethren and motioned with his hand for them to go back. They, however, kept on and paid no attention to his motion. When he saw them still coming, he wheeled round and joined the others who all put spurs to their horses and were soon out of sight behind a higher piece of land. Soon as they were out of sight Elder Kimball and Benson spurred their horses and rode to the ridge and as they arrived there they discovered a camp of the Missourians about a quarter of a mile to the left of the road and the six Indians were just entering the camp. The brethren were now satisfied that these Indians were Missourians and had taken this plan to keep us back from this good camp ground. It is considered as an old Missouri trick and an insult to the camp, and if they undertake to play Indian again, it is more than likely they will meet with Indian treatment. Their camp left here a little before we arrived this morning and it is now President Young's intention to press on a little faster and crowd them up a little. We have learned from one of the emigrants a few miles in our rear that Andrew Gibbons tarried with their camp over night. When he returned to the spring and found our camp gone and the Missourians' camp there, he told them of the dead buffalo killed by Norton. They went and fetched what meat they wanted and feasted on it, he joining with them and faring well. At a quarter past nine we proceeded on our journey. After traveling three miles, we arrived at the Willow spring and halted a little while to get water. This spring is about two feet wide and the water ten inches deep, perfectly clear, cold as ice water, and very good tasting. There is a willow grove extending for some distance above and below it which will answer very well for firing purposes. The grass is good and plentiful and it is one of the loveliest camping spots I have seen on the journey, though the land where the stream runs below the spring is soft and some danger of cattle miring. The spring is situated between two very high hills and is about three rods west of the road and shielded from the sun by a bank about eight feet high and the willow grove. A little piece before we arrived at the spring there are two very deep ravines to cross, which requires some care on the part of the teamsters to prevent accidents. At a quarter of a mile beyond the spring we began to ascend a very high hill which was one mile from the foot to the top and the ascent pretty steep. The summit of this hill is nicely rounding and considered to be much the highest we have traveled over. From the top can be seen a vast extent of country to the south, west, and north. For about twenty or thirty miles to the south there appears to be a tolerably level bottom over which our future road runs. Beyond this there are vast ranges of high hills whose summits are spotted with snow. In the distance to the southwest can be seen a small body of water which we suppose to be a part of the Sweet Water river. To the west the ridges of rocks or hills appear nearer. They are probably not over fifteen miles from us. On the north we can see hills a long distance. The one opposite Red Buttes, near the spring where we halted yesterday noon, appears only a few miles distance. The view from this hill is one of romantic beauty which cannot easily be surpassed and as President Young remarked, would be a splendid place for a summer mansion to keep tavern. We then descended on the southwest corner of the hill and found it to be just one mile farther to the foot. At the distance of three quarters of a mile farther we found a good place for feed, being plenty of grass, but no water nor wood. At a mile and a quarter still farther we crossed a very bad slough which is about a rod across and following the road, nearly three feet deep in water and stiff mud. Most of the wagons crossed a little to the right of the road and found it not so difficult to cross, yet very soft. There is also plenty of good grass at this spot. A mile beyond this slough we ascended a very steep bluff though not very high and the descent on the southwest is also very steep. At 2:45 we halted to feed in a ravine where there is plenty of grass and a good stream of water about three hundred yards south from the road but destitute of wood. We have traveled this forenoon nine miles over barren, sandy land being no grass only in the spots above mentioned. During the halt it was decided that President Young take the lead with his wagon and try to proceed a little faster. At five o'clock we again proceeded, the President's wagon going first; all the others keeping their places. I will here remark that it is the order of our traveling for each company of ten to go forward in their turn. The first ten in the first division taking the lead one day, then on the second day it falls in the rear of the first division, the second ten takes the lead and this continues till each company of ten have taken the lead one day a piece. Then the first division falls in the rear of the second division which also begins by companies of ten to take the lead of the road as stated above and when each ten have had their day, the second division again falls in the rear of the first which continues in the same order. Thus every man has his equal privilege of traveling one with another. After traveling two and a half miles we descended to the bottom land again and saw a small stream a little to the left of the road where there is plenty of grass. One and three quarters miles farther we crossed a creek of tolerably clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep, but neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven miles this afternoon we turned off from the road to the left and at 8:20 formed our encampment on a ridge near the last mentioned creek where there is good feed, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, exclusive of allowance for turning from the road, and during the day twenty miles. We had been in hopes of reaching the Sweet Water but it appears we are yet some miles from it. The whole country around is entirely destitute of timber, not a tree to be seen, nor a shrub larger than the wild sage which abounds in all this region of country and will answer for cooking when nothing else can be found. Some anxiety is felt on account of the absence of Elder Woodruff and John Brown. They started ahead this morning with instructions to go on about fifteen miles and if they found a good place to camp, to stay. They have not been seen or heard of since. It is supposed they have fallen in with some of the companies either forward or back and have concluded to tarry with them over night.

Morning very fine and warm. From this place we can see a huge pile of rocks to the southwest a few miles. We have supposed this to be the rock of Independence. After breakfast I went to view it and found that it was a vast pile of rocks extending from south to north about five hundred feet and in width, one hundred feet. The rocks are large and seem piled on one another with the edges up. There is no earth on the ridge but a little drift sand in which there are currant and rose bushes growing. I saw a large mouse on the top which had a long bushy tail like a squirrel. It sat up and acted in every respect like a squirrel, but in size and color resembled a mouse. At 8:35 the camp proceeded onward. After traveling three and a quarter miles we arrived on a bed of saleratus which was a quarter of a mile across and on which were several lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells bad. The beds of saleratus smell like lime, but the saleratus itself is said to raise bread equal to the best bought in eastern markets. Lorenzo Young gathered a pail full in a short time with a view to test its qualities. Large quantities may be gathered in a short time and when pulverized it looks clean and nice. We are now satisfied that the water we saw from the hills yesterday must have been some of these lakes as the Sweet Water is not yet in sight, but these being high, show at a long distance. The water is not very salty but brackish and tastes sickly. It is reported by travelers that these are poisonous, but it is probable that all the poison there is about them is their salt causing cattle to drink freely when they can get no other water, and the more they drink, the more thirsty they get till they burst themselves, which is said to be the effect of drinking the poison, viz., to burst. As we passed along a little farther we saw another large lake to the left and one to the right of the same nature, their banks mostly white with saleratus. At twelve o'clock we arrived on the banks of the Sweet Water, having traveled seven and a half miles over a very sandy road destitute of wood, water or grass. The distance from the upper ferry of the Platte river to this place is forty-nine miles by the roadometer. There has formerly been a ford here but lately emigrants have found a better ford higher up the river. At this place the river is probably seven or eight rods wide and over three feet deep at the ford, but in some places it is much deeper still. The current is very swift, the water a little muddy, but pleasant tasting. By watching it closely it is easy to see on the surface numerous small bright particles floating which at first sight might be supposed to be salt, however the water itself has not the least saline taste. On the banks of the river there is plenty of good grass but destitute of wood there being only one solitary tree to be seen and that stands beside this fording place. The only chance for fuel appears to be the wild sage and other small shrubbery occasionally growing in spots on the low banks. After we halted, Sister Harriet Young made some bread using the lake saleratus and when baked was pronounced to raise the bread and taste equal to the best she had ever used and it requires less of this than the common saleratus. A number of the brethren went back during the halt and filled their pails with it calculating to make use of it during our future journey. The day has been very hot and no wind which makes it unpleasant traveling. Elder Woodruff and Brown again joined the camp on our arrival here and reported that they had spent the night in one of the gentile camps which are now some miles ahead of us. There are many high hills or ridges of the granite rock in the neighborhood, especially in the east and west, all entirely destitute of vegetation and which present a very wild and desolate as well as romantic aspect. I can describe their appearance only by saying that it seems as though giants had in by-gone days taken them in wheelbarrows of tremendous size and wheeled up in large heaps, masses of heavy clay which has consolidated and become solid, hard rock. The rock Independence lies a little west of where we have halted and after dinner I went to view it as well as many others. It lies on the north bank of the river in this shape: The extreme southeast corner reaches to within about three rods of the river and runs in a direction northwest while the river at this place runs nearly a west course. It is composed of the same barren granite as other masses in this region and is probably 400 yards long, 80 yards wide and 100 yards in perpendicular height as near as I could guess. The ascent is difficult all around. Travelers appear to have ascended it mostly at the southeast corner where there are some hundreds of names of persons who have visited it, both male and female, painted on the projecting surfaces with black, red, and some with yellow paint. About half way up there is a cavern about twelve feet long and three feet wide at the bottom but at the top about ten feet wide and eight feet high, formed by a very large heavy mass of rock having sometime fallen over an opening or cavity leaving scarcely room enough for a man to enter. However there are three places by which it may be entered though not without difficulty. There are a number of names inside the cavern put on with black paint, doubtless being the names of persons who have visited it. On the top of the rock the surface is a little rounding something like a large mound with large masses of loose rock lying scattered around. Proceeding forward you descend, when nearly half way of the length, to a considerably lower surface which continues some distance and then rises high again to about the same height as the first section. On the top there are a number of small pools of water, no doubt collected during heavy rains and having no chance to run off, they stand until evaporated into the atmosphere. Some of the pools are eight inches deep and taste like rain water. It is more difficult descending from the rock than to ascend it on account of its being hard and slippery and nothing to hang on, and a visitor has to be careful or he will arrive on the ground with bruised limbs. At three o'clock p.m. they started on and on arriving at the rock found it to be one and a quarter miles from noon halt. We put up a guide board opposite the rock with this inscription on it. "To Fort John 175¼ miles. Pioneers, June 21, 1847. W. R." The letters W. R. are branded on all the guide boards at the doctor's request so as to have a mark that the Saints might know; and his brand is generally known by the Saints. After traveling on the banks of the river one mile beyond the rock, we forded over and found it nearly three feet deep in the channel. All the wagons got over without difficulty or much loss of time. We then continued a southwest course four and a half miles farther and arrived opposite Devil's Gate which lies a little to the west of the road; and a quarter of a mile beyond this, the road passes between two high ridges of granite, leaving a surface of about two rods of level ground on each side the road. The road then bends to the west and a quarter of a mile farther, passes over a small creek two feet wide but bad crossing on account of its being deep and muddy, requiring caution in the teamsters to prevent accident. President Young, Kimball and others went to view the north side of Devil's Gate and returning reported that the devils would not let them pass, or meaning that it was impossible to go through the gateway so called. We proceeded on a little farther and at 6:35 formed our encampment on the bank of the river having traveled this afternoon seven and three quarters miles, and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The feed here is good and plentiful and a little cedar can be obtained at the foot of one of the rocky ridges about a quarter of a mile back. After we had camped I went back to view the Devil's Gate where the river runs between two high rocky ridges for the distance of about 200 yards. The rock on the east side is perpendicular and was found by a barometrical measurements by Elder Pratt to be 399 feet 4¼ inches high. The one on the west side is about the same height but not perpendicular bending a little from the river gradually to the top. The river has a channel of about three rods in width through this pass which increases its swiftness and, dashing furiously against the huge fragments of rock which have fallen from the mountain, makes a roar which can be heard plainly in the camp. One of the brethren fired off his rifle at the foot of the rock and the report resembled much like that of a cannon. Others tumbled fragments of rocks from a projection at the entrance about 150 feet high, which made a very loud rumbling sound caused by the echoes. The scenery is one of romantic grandeur and it seems wonderful how the river could ever find a channel through such a mass of heavy, solid rock. The view from this evening's encampment over the surrounding country is sublime. To the east, south, and southwest the Sweet Water mountains tower high and appear spotted with snow; and about twenty to thirty miles distance from the river to the west are also hills and ridges interspersed as far as the eye can reach, except the land immediately on the river which appears even for many miles. These high, barren, rocky ridges on the north side of the river seem to continue for many miles.

Tuesday, June 22

Morning fine. At 7:20 we continued our journey and about 200 yards from where we camped, crossed a very crooked creek about six feet wide descending from the southwest. After traveling three miles over heavy, sandy roads, we crossed another creek about six feet wide; and three and three quarters miles farther, a creek two feet wide. Somewhere near this last creek, Brother Lorenzo Young broke one of his axle trees which detained him some time. One of the Missourian companies came up soon after the accident and took his load into one of their wagons and by splicing a piece of wood on his axle tree, he was enabled to follow our camp. At 11:55 we halted on the banks of the river, having traveled ten miles over a very sandy, barren land, there being no grass only on the creeks and river banks. During the halt, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude of this place 42° 28' 25". President Young went back to meet Lorenzo but soon found he was coming on with the Missourian company who were approaching near us. He immediately turned about and on arriving back gave orders to get up the teams and proceed so as to keep ahead of the other company who say they have traveled from Independence Rock without halting. However, they passed before we could start and got ahead of us. The day has been hot and a little wind. At 2:25 we continued, finding the road again leaving the river. At half a mile, we passed a very large lake on our left which covers an area of over 80 acres of land. Its banks are mostly white with the alkali or saleratus. After passing this lake the road runs south, passing between high sandy bluffs after which it again turns around gradually towards the west and descending a steep bluff over very heavy, sandy land. After traveling five and three quarters miles crossed a creek about six feet wide and a foot deep. The bank on each side is very steep and sandy, making it difficult for teams to get up. Here Sterling Driggs had his harness broken to pieces by his horses springing suddenly when attempting to rise out of the creek. They cleared themselves from the wagon which was hauled up by a yoke of oxen so as not to hinder the rest from crossing. The banks of this creek are well lined with sage instead of grass which is very large and thick on the ground on account of which Elder Kimball named this Sage creek. After passing this creek one and three quarters miles we again arrived on the banks of the river and continued to travel near to it. At two and a quarter miles farther crossed a creek three feet wide, but not much to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we formed our encampment at the foot of a very high gravelly bluff and near the river, having traveled this afternoon ten and three quarters miles and during the day twenty and three quarters miles over mostly a very sandy road. This is a very good camp ground, there being plenty of grass for our teams which is well worth traveling a few miles extra. From this place the country seems fortified by hills and mountains especially on the west. Lewis Barney and Joseph Hancock have each killed an antelope during the day, but there appears to be no buffalo in the neighborhood.

Wednesday, June 23

Morning fine and warm. After breakfast I went to the top of the high bluff expecting to get a good view of the country west but was disappointed in consequence of the many ridges or bluffs but a little distance beyond us. At seven o'clock the camp moved forward and immediately after saw a graveyard on the left of the road with a board stuck up with these words written on it: "Matilda Crowley. B. July 16th, 1830, and D. July 7, 1846." On reflecting afterward that some of the numerous emigrants who had probably started with a view to spend the remainder of their days in the wild Oregon, had fallen by the way and their remains had to be left by their friends far from the place of destination, I felt a renewed anxiety that the Lord will kindly preserve the lives of all my family, that they may be permitted to gather to the future home of the Saints, enjoy the society of the people of God for many years to come, and when their days are numbered that their remains may be deposited at the feet of the servants of God, rather than be left far away in a wild country. And oh, Lord, grant this sincere desire of thy servant in the name of Thy Son Jesus. Amen. After traveling one and a half miles we crossed a very shoal stream of clear, cold water about five feet wide. There is but little grass here although a number of bitter cottonwood trees grow on the banks. There being no name on the map for this creek, it was named Bitter Cottonwood Creek to designate it in our future travel. It is probable that this stream is caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains and if so, could not be depended on for a camp ground late in the summer. After passing this creek, the river runs between some of the high rocky ridges, the road at the same time bending a little southwest to pass around them. After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned creek, we again descended to the banks of the river where would be a pretty good camp ground although the grass is not so plentiful as in many other places on the banks of the river. We traveled till 11:05 on the river banks then halted for noon where the road and river separated a little farther and hence we would probably not find grass again for a number of miles. The land continues very sandy making it hard on teams; our course about west, the day very warm with a light south breeze. We traveled eight and a half miles this morning. There are some small cedar trees on the rocky bluffs which is the only timber seen since we passed the Bitter Cottonwood. Latitude of this place 42° 31' 20". At 1:10 we continued our journey and after proceeding half a mile, found the river turns between the granite ridges in a northwest direction and seems to have but a narrow space to pass through in several places. The road at the same place turns south to avoid the ridges for over a mile and then bends to the southwest for some distance farther. The road at the foot of these rocky hills is extremely sandy and heavy traveling. On arriving at the south side of the hills, we were suddenly cheered with a very plain view of the Wind river chain of the Rocky Mountains towering high up in the air and perfectly white with snow. Some of the peaks appear to run up very high, but we are evidently many miles from them yet. After we passed this place, the road gradually bends to the west and northwest and at the distance of six and three quarters miles from our noon halt brings us to the banks of the river again. We continued on the banks of the river till 6:20, at which time we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon eight and a half miles and during the day seventeen. As usual there is plenty of grass on the river banks but no wood. There are some dry buffalo chips and wild sage which answer tolerably well for cooking. The land over which we have traveled, except in the several places above mentioned, is perfectly barren except for wild sage which abounds, but there is scarcely a spear of grass to be seen. These granite ridges continue from the Rock Independence to this place, mostly on the north side the river. Here they recede from the river a few miles and then cease. There are two of the Missourian companies camped, one about a half a mile and the other a mile west of us and we are given to understand we have got a long distance to travel without grass or water. It is stated that a man from one of these companies left his company a few days ago and went ahead to examine the route, etc. On their arrival here they found him in one of these rocky hills hid up for fear of the Indians. He reports that he has been to the pass and that we shall find water about fourteen miles from here. He has come from the pass in two nights and hid up in the day time to avoid Indians, but has seen none. He says it is not over twenty-eight miles to the pass from here. After we camped, Burr Frost set up his forge and set some wagon tires and repaired the wheels of the wagons for one of the Missourians. There are no buffalo to be seen yet and not much game of any kind. Lewis Barney killed two antelope and the brethren mostly killed one or two every day. The Sweet Water mountains do not appear very high but have considerable snow lying on them in some places. They appear to run nearly parallel with the river to about from twenty to thirty miles distance to the south.

Thursday, June 24

Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river, having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful, this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.

Friday, June 25

President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night. We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift. After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge, we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island. The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road, and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.

Saturday, June 26

Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold, as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie, there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen. After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide, three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good, rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel. Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward, ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass, and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains, Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.

Sunday, June 27

Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably, winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good. One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing several of these papers during the day but found little interesting news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42° 18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek. There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered. We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get from under the grasp of our enemies.

Monday, June 28

Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies. After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course, the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy, having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy. Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth. We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A. Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles. We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are in substance as follows:

We will find better grass as we proceed farther on. His business is to Fort Laramie. His traders have gone there with robes, skins, etc., to fill a contract, but having started later than they intended the men at Laramie have taken advantage of the delay and he is going to see to the business himself. There is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present. There was one but it was destroyed. There have been nearly a hundred wagons gone on the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They cross the Blacks Fork and go a little south of west from his place and pass below the mountains which cross Green river. The Green river runs over an extent of country of 400 miles. It is impossible for wagons to follow down Green river, neither can it be followed with boats. Some have gone down with canoes, but had great difficulty getting back on account of the rapid current and rough channel. Cannot pass the mountains close to the river even with horses. For some distance beyond this chain of mountains, the country is level and beyond that it is hard black rock which looks as if it were glazed when the sun shines on it, and so hard and sharp it will cut a horse's feet to pieces. When we get below the mountains, the Green River falls into a level country for some distance after which it winds through a mountainous country perfectly barren to the Gulf of California. From Bridger's fort to the salt lake, Hastings said was about one hundred miles. He has been through fifty times but can form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hastings' route leaves the Oregon route at his place. We can pass the mountains farther south, but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River valley there is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood, pine and maple. There is not an abundance of sugar maple but plenty of as splendid pine as he ever saw. There is no timber on the Utah Lake only on the streams which empty into it. In the outlet of the Utah Lake which runs into the salt lake there is an abundance of blue grass and red and white clover. The outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid current but the water is muddy and low banks. Some of his men have been around the salt lake in canoes. They went out hunting and had their horses stolen by the Indians. They then went around the lake in canoes hunting beaver and were three months going around it. They said it was 550 miles around it. The Utah tribe of Indians inhabit the region around the Utah Lake and are a bad people. If they catch a man alone they are sure to rob and abuse him if they don't kill him, but parties of men are in no danger. They are mostly armed with guns. There was a man opened a farm in the Bear River valley. The soil is good and likely to produce corn were it not for the excessive cold nights which he thinks would prevent the growth of corn. There is a good country south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the great basin. There are three large rivers which enter into the Sevier Lake unknown to travelers. There is also a splendid range of country on the north side of the California mountains calculated to produce every kind of grain and fruit and there are several places where a man might pass from it over the mountains to the California settlements in one day. There is a vast abundance of timber and plenty of coal. There is also plenty of coal in this region near the mountains. North of the California mountains there is walnut, oak, ash, hickory, and various kinds of good timber on and in the neighborhood of the mountains and streams southeast of the great basin. There can be a wagon road made through to it and no lack of water. The great desert extends from the salt lake to the Gulf of California which is perfectly barren. He supposes it to have been an arm of the sea. The three rivers before mentioned are southwest of the desert. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise abundance of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best of wheat there. This country lies southeast of the salt lake. There is one mountain in that region and the country adjoining in which he considers if ever there was a promised land, that must be it. There is a kind of cedar grows on it which bears fruit something like juniper berries of a yellow color about the size of an ordinary plum. The Indians grind the fruit and it makes the best kind of meal. He could easily gather a hundred bushels off one tree. He has lived on this fruit and used to pick his hat full in a very short time. There are a great many little streams head in this mountain and many good springs. It is about twenty days' travel with horses from the salt lake, but the country to it is bad to get through and over a great part of it, nothing for animals to subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. On one of the rivers there is a splendid copper mine, a whole mountain of it. It also abounds in gold, silver and has a good quick silver mine. There is iron, coal, etc. The land is good; the soil rich. All the valleys abound with persimmons and grapes which will make the best kind of wines. He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the Utah Lake is the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake and the country is still better the farther south we go until we meet the desert which is upwards of 200 miles south from the Utah Lake. There is plenty of timber on all the streams and mountains and abundance of fish in the streams. There is timber all around the Utah Lake and plenty of good grass; not much of the wild sage only in small patches. Wild flax grows in most of the valleys and they are the richest lands. He passed through that country a year ago last summer in the month of July, and they generally had one or two showers every day, sometimes a very heavy thunder shower but not accompanied by strong wind. By following under the mountain south of the Utah Lake we find another river which enters into another lake about fifty miles south of the Utah Lake. We shall find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort except after we cross Green River and travel five miles beyond it where we shall have to travel eighteen or twenty miles without water, but there is plenty of grass. After crossing Green River we follow down it four or five miles to the old station then cross over to a stream which heads in the mountains west. The station is more than half way from here to his place. We shall have no streams to ferry between here and the fort except Green River. The Indians south of the Utah Lake and this side the desert raise corn, wheat and other kinds of grain and produce in abundance. The Utah's abound more on the west of the mountains near the salt lake than on the east side, ten to one, but we have no need to fear them for we can drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours but he would not kill them, he would make slaves of them. The Indians south of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat, and pumpkins as were ever raised in old Kentucky. He knows of a lead mine between the mountains and Laramie on a timbered creek near the Horseshoe creek. He has found lead there and thinks there is considerable silver in it. It can be found in a cave on the side of the mountain not far from the road.

Such was the information we obtained from Mr. Bridger, but we shall know more about things and have a better understanding when we have seen the country ourselves. Supper had been provided for Mr. Bridger and his men and the latter having eaten, the council dismissed, Mr. Bridger going with President Young to supper, the remainder retiring to their wagons conversing over the subject touched upon. The evening was very fine but mosquitoes numerous.

Tuesday, June 29

Morning very pleasant till the sun got up a little, then it was very hot. We started at 7:40 and traveled over very good roads through barren land till 10:45 then halted for noon on the banks of the Big Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles. The second division have passed over the river but the first division halted on the north side. This stream appears to be about seven rods wide at this place and about two feet deep in the channel, but it is not generally so wide, but deeper. There is some timber on its banks and plenty of grass in places for teams. At 1:30 we again proceeded, President Young and some others going ahead in the cutter wagon to look out a camp ground for the night. Our course still lies about southwest, the road generally good over gently rolling, hard, sandy land and in some places the surface is covered with loose fragments of hard rock. After traveling nine and a half miles President Young rode up and reported that we would have to go at least six miles farther before we could get feed. It was then a quarter after six, but the teamsters spurred up in order to get through. Most of the road after this for four miles was very hilly and uneven and in places the loose fragments of rocks made it very bad traveling, but many were thrown from the road by the spare men. The weather grew cooler towards evening, some large clouds rising in the west which favored the teams considerably. At 9:05 we found ourselves on the lowlands on the banks of the river again and formed our encampment, having traveled since noon seventeen miles and during the day twenty-three and three-quarters, which is the greatest day's journey we have made since leaving Winter Quarters. The camp was formed by moonlight. There seems to be plenty of feed for teams but no wood for fuel. Many of the brethren have gone down sick within the past three days and a number more this evening. They generally begin with headache, succeeded by violent fever, and some go delirious for a while. Brother Fowler was seized this afternoon and this evening is raving. It is supposed by some that this sickness is caused by the use of the mineral saleratus or alkali picked up on the lakes and surface of the land and it is considered poisonous. Some consider also that we inhale the effluvium arising from it, which has the like effect. It appears to be an article which ought to be used with great care if used at all. There has been no case considered dangerous yet, nor any of long duration.

Wednesday, June 30

Morning hot. We resumed our journey at 8:15, several others of the brethren being reported sick. President Young, Kimball and others rode ahead again. We found the roads very good but sandy and filling the wagons with dust. At 11:30 we arrived on the banks of Green River, having traveled eight miles and formed our encampment in a line under the shade of the cottonwood timber. This river is about sixteen to eighteen rods wide and altogether too deep to be forded. Its banks are well lined with cottonwood but none large enough to make a canoe. There are also many patches of wild apple trees, and rose bushes abound bearing pretty roses. This river is 338½ miles from Fort John or Laramie. There is a narrow strip of land which might answer for farming on each bank of the river. The grass grows good and plentiful but still not so much as has been represented. After dinner the brethren commenced making two rafts, one for each division, and a while afterwards Elder Samuel Brannan arrived, having come from the Pacific to meet us, obtain council, etc. He is accompanied by Smith of the firm of Jackson Heaton & Bonney, bogus snakers of Nauvoo. There is another young man in company with them. They have come by way of Fort Hall and brought with them several files of the California Star. They had eleven deaths on board their ship during their voyage over, the others I understand are doing well, raising grain, etc. Towards evening a storm blew up from the west and although we had no rain we had tremendous wind. The first division finished their raft before dark. There is a slough a little down the river where some of the brethren have caught some very nice fish, but the mosquitoes are so very troublesome it is difficult abiding out of doors.