This morning found myself laboring under a severe attack of the fever, accompanied with violent aching in my head and limbs. The brethren commenced ferrying but got only fourteen wagons over on account of the very high wind.

Friday, July 2

The day was more pleasant and the ferrying continued more rapidly. I got over the river before noon but remained very sick. Afternoon the twelve had a council and decided to send three or four men back to serve as guides to the next company.

Saturday, July 3

The morning more unfavorable. The brethren got the last wagon over before noon, no accident having happened, and about the time they finished it commenced raining, accompanied by thunder and wind. It was concluded for some of the brethren to go on and look out a camp ground a few miles ahead so as to shorten the distance of the next day's travel. The brethren returned about noon and gave orders to harness up and proceed, and at 3:15 we moved forward and went on three miles, then formed encampment in the midst of an army of mosquitoes. These insects are more numerous here than I ever saw them anywhere, everything was covered with them, making the teams restive in the wagons. There is plenty of grass for teams and it is the intention to tarry here till Monday morning. At night President Young gave the brethren some instructions about trading at Fort Bridger and advised them to be wise, etc. Five men were selected to go back and meet the next company, viz., Phineas Young, George Woodard, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney Badger. They are to take the cutter wagon instead of each taking a horse which cannot be spared by the camp.

Sunday, July 4

The morning fine and warm. The five brethren have started back to meet the other company. President Young, Kimball and others went back with them to ferry them over Green River. Some of the brethren assembled for meeting in the circle. At 2:30 p.m. the brethren returned from the ferry accompanied by twelve of the Pueblo brethren from the army. They have got their discharge and by riding hard overtaken us. They feel well and on arriving in camp gave three cheers, after which President Young moved that we give glory to God which was done by hosannas. William Walker was with them but has gone back with the five brethren to meet his wife. The spot where we are now camped is opposite to the junction of the Big Sandy and Green River. On the other side the river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and interesting. During the afternoon one of Brother Crow's oxen was found to be poisoned through eating some kind of a weed and was much swollen. I understand it was dead when they found it.

Monday, July 5

At eight o'clock we pursued our journey, many of the brethren still being sick though generally improving. After traveling three and a half miles on the bank of the river the road then leaves it bending westward. We have now a very pleasant view of the Bear River mountains far to the southwest, their summits capped with snow. We found the land somewhat rolling, destitute of grass and several very steep places of descent. At 4:45 we arrived on the banks of Blacks Fork and formed our encampment, having traveled twenty miles, the last sixteen and a half without sight of water. This stream is about six rods wide, very swift current but not deep. The bottoms on each side are very pleasant but not much grass for teams. There is one place in the road where we might have saved a crook of nearly a mile by digging down bank which would probably have detained us about twenty minutes, but it was not discovered till most of the wagons had passed over.

Tuesday, July 6

Morning very pleasant. We started on our journey at 7:50 and after traveling three and three-quarters miles, crossed Hams Fork, a rapid stream about three rods wide and two feet deep; and this would be a good place to camp, there being an abundance of high bunch grass on the banks. One and a half miles farther we crossed Blacks Fork which appears to be about eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep, but little grass near it. We then leave the river and wind over uneven road with many pitches caused by heavy rains washing the land, which is generally barren. After traveling eleven miles beyond the last stream, crossed a small creek about two feet wide but no grass. At four o'clock we crossed back over Blacks Fork and formed our encampment on its banks, having traveled eighteen and a quarter miles. At this place there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower. There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with beautiful flowers of various colors--chiefly blue, red and yellow, which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an eastern flower garden.

Wednesday, July 7

This morning we proceeded at 7:35 and after traveling two and a half miles, forded Black's Fork once more. Here also is abundance of good grass, wild flax and handsome flowers. After traveling two and three-quarters miles farther, forded a stream about two rods wide and two feet deep, very swift current, also lined on its banks with bunch grass. At twelve o'clock we halted for noon on the banks of the last stream, having traveled nine miles over pretty rough road. The day very windy and filling the wagons with dust. Some of the wagons have gone on expecting to reach Bridger's Fort before they halt. At 1:40 we moved forward and found the road more even, though in many places rendered bad by the cobble stones. After traveling seven and a half miles we arrived opposite to nine Indian lodges erected on the south of the road. Here we halted a while and found Tim Goodale here, one of the trappers who passed us at the Platte ferry. There are not many Indians here but they appear to have a great many handsome ponies. We then continued on and after fording four creeks on an average about a rod wide, we arrived at Fort Bridger which is proved by the roadometer to be 397 miles from Fort John. We went half a mile beyond the fort and formed our encampment after crossing three more creeks, having traveled this afternoon eight and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen and three-quarters. The grass is very plentiful in this neighborhood and much higher than we have generally seen it. The whole region seems filled with rapid streams all bending their way to the principal fork. They doubtless originate from the melting of the snow on the mountains and roar down their cobbly beds till they join Black's Fork. Bridger's Fort is composed of two double log houses about forty feet long each and joined by a pen for horses about ten feet high constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together, which is all the appearance of a fort in sight. There are several Indian lodges close by and a full crop of young children playing around the door. These Indians are said to be of the Snake tribe, the Utahs inhabiting beyond the mountains. The latitude of Fort Bridget is 41° 19' 13" and its height above the level of the sea according to Elder Pratt's observations is 6,665 feet. It is doubtless a very cold region and little calculated for farming purposes. To the west is a pretty high mountain which appears well covered with timber. The country all around looks bleak and cold.

Thursday, July 8

Morning fine but high wind. It is concluded to stay a day here to set some wagon tires, etc. Many have gone to trade their rifles and some clothing for buckskins. H. Egan traded two rifles and got twenty pretty good skins for them. The day continued warm with high wind. Evening there was a council and some complaints listened to from George Mills against Andrew Gibbons. It was decided for Thomas Williams and S. Brannan to return from here and meet Captain Brown's company from Pueblo. Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor their paw from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay. Williams came clothed with authority to arrest Tim Goodale or one of his men for stealing a horse at Pueblo, but he can get no encouragement from President Young to make the attempt.

Friday, July 9

We started at eight o'clock, the brethren who go back bidding good bye to the camp and proceeding on their back journey while we moved westward over pretty rough roads. After traveling six and a quarter miles, we arrived at the springs and halted a while to rest our teams. We then proceeded on three-quarters of a mile and began to ascend a long steep hill, near the top of which and eight miles from Fort Bridger, Elder Pratt took an observation and found the latitude 41° 16' 11". Arriving on the top we found the table tolerably level for several miles then began to descend to the bottom again. The descent from this hill is the steepest and most difficult we have ever met with, being long and almost perpendicular. At three o'clock we crossed the Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and formed our encampment on the west bank, having traveled since the halt six and three-quarters miles and during the day thirteen. Here is plenty of tall bunch grass and a pretty good chance for our teams. The day has been windy, warm and dusty.

Saturday, July 10

Started this morning at eight o'clock, weather warm with tolerably high wind. After traveling three and a half miles we passed a small copperas spring at the foot of a mountain a little to the left of the road. The water is very clear but tastes very strong of copperas and alum and has a somewhat singular effect on the mouth. It runs a little distance over the red sand which abounds in this region and where it is saturated with water almost looks like blood at a little distance. After passing this spring the road winds around the foot of mountains gradually ascending for some distance till finally arriving on the summit of a high ridge. Here Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the height to be 7,315 feet above the level of the sea. On arriving at the west side of the ridge two and a half miles from the last mentioned spring we found a very steep, rough place to descend and found it necessary to halt and fix the road. About half way down there is a place over huge rocks, leaving barely enough room for a wagon to get down, but by labor it was soon made passable. A little farther, the brethren had to dig a place considerably to make a pass between the mountains. President Young and Kimball labored hard with a number of others and in about a half an hour made a good road. At twenty miles from Fort Bridger, passed another spring and a little farther after arriving on the bottom land, the road turns nearly south through a beautiful low bottom filled with grass. At 1:45 we halted for noon, having traveled nine miles. Latitude 41° 14' 21". After halting an hour and a half we proceeded again and after traveling three and a half miles began to ascend the dividing ridge between the Colorado waters and the great basin. This mountain is very high and the ascent steep, rendering it necessary to make a crooked road to gain the summit. The height is 7,700 feet according to Elder Pratt's observations. The surface at the top is narrow. Here three bears were seen to run over a still higher mountain on the left. The descent was very steep, having to lock the wagons for half a mile. We then descend and travel on the bottom a few miles between high rugged mountains till the road seems suddenly to be shut up by a high mountain ahead. The road here turns suddenly to the left and goes east about 200 yards then winds again southwest. After ascending and descending another high ridge, we crossed a small creek about ten feet wide and at 7:45 formed our encampment on the southwest banks, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day eighteen over the most mountainous course we have yet seen. After camping, Mr. Miles Goodyear came into camp. He is the man who is making a farm in the Bear River valley. He says it is yet seventy-five miles to his place, although we are now within two miles of Bear River. His report of the valley is more favorable than some we have heard but we have an idea he is anxious to have us make a road to his place through selfish motives. Elder Pratt has found a beautiful spring of clear, sweet, cold water about a hundred yards southwest from the camp. Water excellent.

Sunday, July 11

Morning fine with ice a quarter of an inch thick on the water pails. Walked on the mountain east with President Young and Kimball, from whence we had a pleasing view of the surrounding valley which is about ten miles wide. Abundance of timber on the mountains south and southwest and beyond that plenty of snow. After having prayers, we again descended and at the foot discovered a very strong sulphur spring. The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black. The water in the creek shows sulphur very clearly and smells bad. During the day some of the brethren discovered an oil spring about a mile south. The substance which rises out of the ground resembles tar and is very oily. Some have oiled their gun stocks with it and oiled their shoes, others have gone to fill their tar buckets and are sanguine it will answer well to grease wagons. It is somewhat singular to find such a great contrast of substances within so short a distance. Here is pure water, sulphur, and oily tar within a mile of each other, and matter of curiosity all around for the contemplation of the curious. Porter, Brother Little and others have been out with Goodyear to view the route he wishes us to take. They represent it as being bad enough, but we are satisfied it leads too far out of our course to be tempted to try it. There are some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to ask or expect. It is evident the country grows better as we proceed west, and vegetation is more plentiful and looks richer. After dark, a meeting was called to decide which of the two roads we shall take from here. It was voted to take the right hand or northern road, but the private feelings of all the twelve were that the other would be better. But such matters are left to the choice of the camp so that none may have room to murmur at the twelve hereafter.

Monday, July 12

Morning cloudy and cool. We pursued our journey at 7:15. At one and a quarter miles rose a very steep, low hill, narrow but very steep on both sides. One half a mile farther crossed the Bear River, a very rapid stream about six rods wide and two feet deep, bottom full of large cobble stones, water clear, banks lined with willows and a little timber, good grass, many strawberry vines and the soil looks pretty good. About a half a mile beyond the ford, proceeded over another ridge and again descended into and traveled up a beautiful narrow bottom covered with grass and fertile but no timber. Four and three-quarters of a mile beyond Bear River, passed a small spring of good clear cold water. At 11:50 halted for noon in the same narrow bottom near a ridge of high, rough rocks to the right, having traveled nine and three-quarters miles. There is scarcely any wagon track to be seen, only a few wagons of Hasting's company having come this route; the balance went the other road and many of them perished in the snow; it being late in the season and much time was lost quarreling who would improve the roads, etc. There is a creek of clear water close by, deep but scarcely any current. President Young was taken very sick awhile before we halted. After resting two hours the camp moved on again, except President Young and Kimball's wagons, who concluded to remain there today on account of the President's sickness. After traveling one and a half miles we crossed the creek at the foot of a high mountain and a little farther crossed back again. A mile farther, began to ascend a long steep hill, narrow on the summit and steep descent. We then wound around between high hills till arriving again on a narrow rich bottom. At the foot of the hill we crossed last, there is a spring of very good cold water, and in fact, there are many good springs all along the road. At six o'clock we formed our encampment near a very small creek and a good spring, having traveled this afternoon six and three-quarters miles and during the day sixteen and a half. There is an abundance of grass here and the country appears to grow still richer as we proceed west, but very mountainous. There are many antelope on these mountains and the country is lovely enough but destitute of timber. About a quarter of a mile west from the camp is a cave in the rock about thirty feet long, fifteen feet wide and from four to six feet high. There are many martins at the entrance and on observing closely, can be seen myriads of small bugs. It is supposed from appearances that there is some property cached in the cave. Soon after we camped, we had a light shower accompanied by thunder. This country evidently lacks rain, even the grass appears parched.

Tuesday, July 13

Awhile before noon, Elder Kimball and Howard Egan arrived from the company back. A meeting was called but suddenly dispersed by a thunder shower. After the rain ceased, Elder Kimball proposed that a company start from the camp with Elder Pratt to proceed to the Weber River canyon and ascertain if we can pass through safely, if not, to try and find a pass over the mountains. He reported that President Young is a little better this morning, but last evening was insensible and raving. Colonel Rockwood is also very sick and quite deranged. A company of twenty-two wagons, mostly ox teams, started on soon after dinner, in company with Elder Pratt, and soon after, Elders Kimball and Egan returned to the back company. The day has been very hot and sultry, and mosquitoes are very troublesome.

Wednesday, July 14

The day has been very hot, with occasionally a light breeze. Several of the brethren have been out hunting, and brought in several antelope which appear to abound in this region. Brothers Woodruff and Barnabas Adams went back to the other wagons this morning. They returned at night and reported that President Young is considerably better, but Brother Rockwood remains very sick. There are one or two new cases of sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours, and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in this disease after breaking up the fever. At night had a light shower. The following is a list of the names of those who are gone on to look out and make a road, etc., viz.: Orson Pratt, commander of company, O. P. Rockwell, Jackson Redding, Stephen Markham, Nathaniel Fairbanks, Joseph Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Robert Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow, Walter H. Crow, Walter Crow, George W. Therlkill, James Chesney, Jewis B. Myers, John Brown, Shadrack Roundy, Hans C. Hanson, Levi Jackman, Lyman Curtis, David Powell, Oscar Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gilbert Summe, Green Flake, John S. Gleason, Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth Taft, Horace Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, James Stewart, Robert Thomas, C. D. Barnham, John S. Eldridge, Elijah Newman, Francis Boggs, Levi N. Kendall, David Grant. First division: seven wagons, fifteen men; second division: sixteen wagons, twenty-seven men besides Crow's family of women and children. Total, twenty-three wagons and forty-two men.

Thursday, July 15

Morning pleasant but cloudy. At twelve o'clock President Young, Kimball and all the rear wagons arrived, eight in number. The President is much better. Brother Rockwood is considerably better. Orders were given for this company to harness up, and during the time till we started onward at half-past one we had a very refreshing shower. After traveling two miles we passed another spring of good water at the foot of a high hill a little to the right of the road. At half-past three we formed our encampment at the foot of some high red bluffs, having traveled four and a half miles, and enjoyed two more pleasant showers. Feed here good and a beautiful spring of good, clear, cold water a little to the left of the road. The evening fine and pleasant.

This morning we have had two pleasant showers accompanied by pretty loud thunder. At 8:45, we proceeded onward, passing through a narrow ravine between very high mountains. After traveling one and a quarter miles passed a deep ravine, where most of the teams had to double to get up. One-half mile farther, crossed the creek and found the crossing place very bad. Harvey Pierce broke his wagon reach and bolster. The wagon had to be unloaded, but with little delay was soon repaired, during which time a number of the brethren fixed a new place to cross the creek. After passing this place, following the course of the creek, the mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked road. At half past twelve we halted to feed, having traveled six and three-quarters miles and are yet surrounded by high mountains. As we halted, O. P. Rockwell came up from Elder Pratt's company. He reports that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to the canyon. They have found the road leading over the mountains to avoid the canyon and expect to be on top today at noon. The day is pleasant with a nice breeze. Grass plentiful and pretty high, but no timber yet, except small cedar on the sides of the mountains. Numerous springs of clear water all along the base of the mountains. During the halt two of the brethren went to the top of the mountain on the north of the camp. They looked like babes in size. At 1:40, we proceeded onward and found the pass between the mountains growing narrower, until it seemed strange that a road could ever have been made through. We crossed creek a number of times, and in several places found the crossing difficult. After proceeding a few miles, we saw patches of oak shrubbery though small in size. In the same place and for several miles there are many patches or groves of the wild currant, hop vines, alder and black birch. Willows are abundant and high. The currants are yet green and taste most like a gooseberry, thick rind and rather bitter. The hops are in blossom and seem likely to yield a good crop. The elder-berries, which are not very plentiful, are in bloom. In some places we had to pass close to the foot of high, perpendicular red mountains of rock supposed to be from six hundred to a thousand feet high. At a quarter to seven we formed our encampment, having traveled this afternoon nine and a half miles, and during the day sixteen and a quarter. We are yet enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water, but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains. Grass is pretty plentiful most of the distance and seems to grow higher the farther we go west. At this place the grass is about six feet high, and on the creek eight or ten feet high. There is one kind of grass which bears a head almost like wheat and grows pretty high, some of it six feet. There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road, form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever witnessed. Soon after we camped, I walked up the highest mountain on the south. The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment, if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would doubtless be dashed to pieces. After resting about half a dozen times I arrived at the top and found the ascent equally steep all the way up. In many places I had to go on my hands and feet to keep from falling backwards. From this mountain I could see the fork of Weber River about a mile west of the camp; looking back I could see the road we had come for several miles, but in every other direction nothing but ranges of mountains still as much higher than the one I was on as it is above the creek. The scenery is truly wild and melancholy. After surveying the face of the country a little while, I began to descend and found the task much more difficult than ascending, but by using great care and taking time, I got down without accident a little before dark. Solomon Chamberlain broke his forward axle tree about two miles back. A wagon was unloaded and sent back to fetch him up. He is yet very sick.

Saturday, July 17

Arose to behold a fine pleasant morning, my health much better. This is my thirty-third birthday. My mind naturally reverts back to my family and my heart is filled with blessings on their heads more than my tongue is able to express. The richest blessings that ever were bestowed upon the head of woman or child could not be more than I desire for them, whatever be my lot. President Young is reported as having had a very sick night. A forge was set up and some repairs done to wagons and Brother Chamberlain's repaired also. The cattle and mules seem very uneasy and continue lowing and braying all the morning. I suppose it is in consequence of the singular echoes, they no doubt thinking they are answered by others over the mountains. At 9:40 the camp renewed the journey and one mile farther arrived at the Red fork of the Weber River. We also seem to have a wide space to travel through and now turn to the right in a western course, the ravine having run mostly southwest. The distance we have traveled through this narrow pass is twenty-three miles. Yesterday was the first day we have been out of sight of snow a whole day since we arrived at Fort John. We could not see it for the high mountains although surrounded by it. On arriving at this stream we see it again on the mountains to the east. This stream is about four rods wide, very clear water and apparently about three feet deep on an average. Its banks lined with cottonwood and birch and also dense patches of brush wood, willows, rose bushes, briers, etc. By stepping to the top of a small mound at the bend of the road, the mouth of the canyon can be seen very plainly, as also the mountains between which we pass to avoid it. The canyon appears to be about eight or ten miles west of us. I should judge not over that. President Young being so very sick found he could not endure to travel farther. Accordingly Elder Kimball and some others went to select a camping ground and soon returning reported a place a little farther. The camp moved on and formed encampment on the banks of the river having traveled two and a half miles, the day very hot and mosquitoes plentiful. Several of the brethren have caught some fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young who continues very sick. On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of the mountain to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces. John Nixon found and brought to camp a very singular kind of thistle which I have never seen before nor recollect of ever reading of the like. He found it on the low land near the camp and says there are many more like it. It is a great curiosity and worthy of description. The stem is about four feet long, about six inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick. It is formed of a double leaf or case and when broken is hollow, although the stem lies close together, perfectly flat. It is ornamented with prickles from bottom to top. These leaves are but sparsely scattered all along up the stem. The top is a kind of crown and bush formed by the same kind of prickly leaves and is about ten inches long by five inches broad, forming a very handsome head or crown. But the great curiosity of this thistle is a perfect resemblance of a snake coiled around the crown as though in the act of guarding it against foes. The head of the snake lies on the top of the crown at one end and is ornamented by a small bunch of flowers like common thistle flowers on the snake's head. At the extremity of the tail is a bunch of small burrs covered with prickles something resembling the rattles on a rattlesnake's tail. The body of the snake is formed of the same kind of substance as the thistle itself and has a very singular appearance. It seems that two of the great enemies of mankind have combined, the most bitter and destructive guarding the more innocent. The serpent tempted the woman causing her to sin, in consequence of which the earth was cursed and decreed to produce thorns and thistles, etc., but this is the first time I ever saw the snake guard the thistle. In the evening Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and Howard Egan rode down the river to visit the canyon. They returned about ten o'clock and said they had been eight miles down the river but at that distance did not arrive at the canyon and being late they concluded to return to camp.

Sunday, July 18

This morning the camp was called together and addressed by Elder Kimball. He reports President Young as being a very sick man. He proposed to the brethren that instead of their scattering off, some hunting, some fishing, and some climbing mountains, etc., that they should meet together and pray and exhort each other that the Lord may turn away sickness from our midst and from our President that we may proceed on our journey. It was decided to assemble at ten o'clock and at the sound of the bugle the brethren met in a small grove of shrubbery which they have made for the purpose opposite the wagons. During the meeting, Elder Kimball proposed to the brethren that all the camp, except President Young's and eight or ten other wagons with brethren enough to take care of him, etc., proceed on tomorrow and go through, find a good place, begin to plant potatoes, etc., as we have little time to spare. The proposition was acceeded to by unanimous vote and after a number had expressed their feelings the meeting adjourned till two o'clock at which time they again assembled and listened to remarks from a number of the brethren. Elder Kimball again gave much good instruction and prophesied of good things concerning the camp. The bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. Good feelings seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover. The day is very hot with very little air moving. Elder Kimball consented for me to go on tomorrow with the company that goes ahead.

Monday, July 19

Morning fine and warm, President Young considerably better. At 7:45 we started onward leaving President Young and Kimball's wagons and several others. We found the road very rough on account of loose rocks and cobble stones. After traveling two and a quarter miles, we forded the river and found it about eighteen inches deep but proceeded without difficulty. Soon after we were over, Elder Snow came up and said the camp were requested to halt awhile till Dr. Richards came. One of his oxen is missing and he wished to go on. We concluded to move on a little to where the road should turn off between the mountains to avoid the canyon. Elder Pratt went three miles out of his road and had to return again. Three-quarters of a mile from the ford we found the place to make the cutoff and there halted awhile. I put a guide board up at this place marked as follows: "Pratt's Pass to avoid canyon. To Fort Bridger 74¼ miles." Brother Pack, having charge of the company, concluded to move on slowly and be making our way up the mountains. We accordingly started and after traveling a mile from the forks began to ascend and wind around the mountains. We found the road exceedingly rough and crooked and very dangerous on wagons. Three and a half miles from the forks of the road the brethren made a bridge over a small creek over which we crossed having passed a number of springs near the road. Two and a quarter miles farther we arrived on the summit of the dividing ridge and put a guide board up, "80 miles to Fort Bridger." At this place Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith and H. Egan rode up to view the road, etc. The descent is not very steep but exceedingly dangerous to wagons being mostly on the side hill over large cobble stones, causing the wagons to slide very badly. After traveling a little way, G. A. Smith's wagon wheels gave way going down a steep pitch. The spokes are loose in the hub, and worked about so that when the wagon slides they dish inward, etc. At two o'clock, we halted beside a small creek to water teams, having traveled ten and a half miles over exceedingly rough road. A wagon was unloaded, and sent for G. A. Smith's loading which is reported to be two miles back. While they were gone, many turned out their teams to graze. At 3:30 the men returned with the wagons, putting the loading into several so as to proceed and at 3:35 we started forward, the road turning suddenly to the right for about three-quarters of a mile and then a southwest course again. Here we ascend a very long steep hill for nearly a mile, then descend by a very crooked road. I think a better road might be made here and this high hill avoided and save a mile's travel. After traveling a little over three miles, we crossed a creek about a rod wide and eighteen inches deep, pretty steep going down but good going out. We went on a little farther and at half past five camped on a small spot surrounded by willow bushes full of mosquitoes, having traveled this afternoon three and a quarter miles and during the day thirteen and three-quarters. The day has been hot and no wind. Teams sweat much and it has been a pretty hard day's travel. There is not much grass here, but is said to be more plentiful a little farther. Several accidents have happened to wagons today but nothing serious except Brother G. A. Smith's. Dr. Richards' wagons arrived in camp at the same time the rest did. The sick are getting better. In the evening the brethren picked up a lot of dry willows and made a coal pit to set G. A. Smith's tire before we can leave tomorrow. The evening and night were very cold.

Tuesday, July 20

This morning fine and warm. The coal pit is burned and Burr Frost set Elder Smith's wagon tire and did various other repairs to a number of other wagons which took till nearly eleven o'clock, about which time the camp started onward. One of Brother Crow's men returned from Elder Pratt's company and reported that their camp is about nine miles from here. He is hunting stray cattle. He says the road is very rough from here and about a mile beyond where they are camped the road begins to ascend over a high range of mountains. Elder Pratt has been to the top but cannot see the Salt Lake from there. Their company is gone on. I walked ahead of the camp nearly four miles and picked many gooseberries nearly ripe. They are very plentiful on this bottom. The brethren spent much time cutting brush wood and improving the road. After traveling four miles, halted about half an hour to water teams and eat dinner. The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense willow groves all along the bottom. We then proceeded on and traveled over the same kind of rough road till a little after 5:00 p.m. then camped on a ridge, having traveled today seven and a quarter miles. The last three miles has been the worst road of the two, it being through willow bushes over twenty feet high, also rose and gooseberry bushes and shaking poplar and birch timber. Although there has been a road cut through, it is yet scarcely possible to travel without tearing the wagon covers. We have crossed this creek which Elder Pratt names Canyon Creek eleven times during the day and the road is one of the most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs standing making it very severe on wagons. As we proceed up, the gap between the mountains seems to grow still narrower until arriving at this place where there is room to camp, but little grass for teams. There are many springs along the road but the water is not very good. In one place about a mile back there is a very bad swamp where the brethren spent some time cutting willows and laying them in to improve it. We have got along today without much damage which is somewhat favorable for the road is awful. At this place the ground around is represented as being swampy and dangerous for cattle. It is reported that there is no place to camp beyond this till where Elder Pratt's company camped and this is so small they have to huddle the wagons together. The soil continues sandy, except in the low moist places where it looks black and good. There is some pine occasionally in sight on the mountains, but timber here is scarce. We have passed through some small patches today where a few house logs might be cut, but this is truly a wild looking place.

Wednesday, July 21

We started onward at half past six, the morning fine and pleasant. We crossed the creek once more and about a half a mile from where we camped, the road turns to the right leaving the creek and ascending the mountains gradually. Much time was necessarily spent cutting down stumps, heaving out rocks and leveling the road. It is an exceedingly rough place. There are several springs at the foot of the mountain and one a mile from the top which runs above the ground a little distance, then sinks under again. The last half mile of the ascent is very steep and the nearer the top the steeper it grows. There is considerable timber up this gap but mostly destroyed by fire. We saw a prairie pheasant while going up and some wild gooseberries. At eleven o'clock, the teams began to arrive on the dividing ridge and in less than an hour, all were safely up. From this ridge we can see an extensive valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours' travel might bring us out from the mountains on good road again. We halted on the ridge a little while and then prepared to descend, many locking both hind wheels, a precaution not at all unnecessary. We found the road down exceedingly steep and rendered dangerous by the many stumps of trees left standing in the road. The brethren cut up many of them which delayed us much. About a mile down is a bridge formed of small trees laid one on another to fill up a deep ravine. It is steep on both sides and here Joseph Rooker turned his wagon over, however, without much damage. A mile and a half from the top is a spring and small stream of very good cold water where we halted to let teams drink. This would make a tolerably good camp ground in case of necessity. After this, the road is not so steep but is very rough and winds between high hills or mountains through willows and brush wood and over soft places, crossing the creek a number of times. At four and a half miles from the top of the ridge, we arrived at a good spring of cold water, plenty of grass and a good place to camp. Our teams have now been in the harness about ten hours without eating and the feeling of many was to stay here, but some wanted to go on and we continued. Turning suddenly to the right a little below this spring we began to ascend another high ridge and while ascending some of the teams began to fail. There are a great many service berries on this ridge growing on what we supposed to be wild apple trees. The berries are good and rich when ripe. The descent from this ridge is not nearly so steep as the other one, yet many locked both hind wheels. After descending, we found another small creek and a very rough road again. At 7:30, we formed our encampment near the creek, having traveled fourteen miles in thirteen hours. There is but little grass here and a poor chance for cattle. Orson Pratt's company are camped a half a mile ahead of us and our camp was formed by Colonel Markham. He says they have had many new cases of sickness but mostly getting better. The cannon is left back on the other side of the mountains. About a mile back from this place there is a small grove of sugar maple and considerable other timber along the creek. There are also beds of nice green rushes in several places.

Thursday, July 22

This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30 and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up, a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be sooner done.

Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road, I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains. To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor, but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted, our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger, the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me, how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes. Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes, sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number. One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds. It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated; also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.

Friday, July 23

This morning Elders Pack and Mathews started to meet the President and at the same time the camp moved on to the final location. We traveled two miles and then formed our encampment on the banks of the creek in an oblong circle. The grass here appears even richer and thicker on the ground than where we left this morning. The soil looks indeed rich, black and a little sandy. The grass is about four feet high and very thick on the ground and well mixed with rushes. If we stay here three weeks and our teams have any rest they will be in good order to return. As soon as the camp was formed a meeting was called and the brethren addressed by Elder Richards, mostly on the necessity and propriety of working faithfully and diligently to get potatoes, turnips, etc., in the ground. Elder Pratt reported their mission yesterday and after some remarks the meeting was dismissed. At the opening, the brethren united in prayer and asked the Lord to send rain on the land, etc. The brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little northeast of the camp; another party went with spades, etc., to make a dam on one of the creeks so as to throw the water at pleasure on the field, designing to irrigate the land in case rain should not come sufficiently. This land is beautifully situated for irrigation, many nice streams descending from the mountains which can be turned in every direction so as to water any portion of the lands at pleasure. During the afternoon, heavy clouds began to collect in the southwest and at five o'clock we had a light shower with thunder. We had rains for about two hours. The brethren have plowed up considerable land and broken several of their plows, but there have been three plows going nearly all day. At night, the camp was called together and addressed by Elder Richards on a subject which seemed little welcome to many from the way it was handled. It was a sermon of ---- from end to end. Some felt a little insulted but it all passed off well and jokingly.

Saturday, July 24

The plowing is renewed and many are gone to planting potatoes. There is one drag going. Others are still at work on the dams. John Pack and Joseph Mathews returned at dark last night and reported the President and company a few miles up Last Creek. They have gone back this morning to fix two bridges at the mouth of the canyon. The day is fine and hot with a nice breeze. At a quarter to twelve, President Young and Kimball arrived and the wagons also began to arrive at the same time. The President seems much better and the sick generally are getting better. Most of the brethren express themselves well; pleased with the place, but some complain because there is no timber. There appears to be a unanimous agreement in regard to the richness of the soil and there are good prospects of sustaining and fattening stock with little trouble. The only objection is a lack of timber and rain. The latter God will send in its season if the Saints are faithful and I think yesterday was a proof that He listens to and answers the prayers of the Saints. We can easily irrigate the land at all events which will be an unfailing and certain source of water, for the springs are numerous and the water appears good. About 5:00 p.m. we were favored with another nice shower accompanied by thunder and some wind. It continued raining till nearly dark; the balance of the evening fine. Elder Kimball says that it is contemplated to send out an exploring party to start on Monday and proceed north to the Bear River and Cache valleys. They design taking several wagons with them and Presidents Young and Kimball accompany the expedition. Another company is to start at the same time and go west to the lake, then south to the Utah lake and return down this valley.

Sunday, July 25

Morning fine and pleasant. At ten o'clock a meeting was held in the camp and the brethren addressed successively by Elders G. A. Smith, H. C. Kimball and E. T. Benson, these mostly expressing their feeling of gratification for the prospects of this country, each being highly satisfied with the soil, etc. Elder Kimball referred especially to the manifold blessings we have been favored with during the journey. Not a man, woman, or child has died on the journey, not even a horse, mule, ox, cow or chicken has died during the whole journey. Many exhortations were given to the brethren to be faithful, obey the council of those in authority and we shall be blessed and prosperous. At 1:00 p.m. by request of Elder Kimball, the following persons viz.: Howard Egan, Hans C. Hanson, Jackson Redding, Carlos Murray, Thomas Cloward, George Billings, Philo Johnson, Charles Harper, Edson Whipple, Wm. A. King, Hosea Cusing, Robert Byard, Orson K. Whitney and Horace Whitney, assembled themselves in a willow grove adjacent to the camp where Elder Kimball addressed them in substance as follows [the whole reported by Horace Whitney]:

"Most of you here present have become adopted into my family, except a very few calling them by name and Horace, who has become connected with my family by marriage, but I do not care for that, you are all the same to me, and your interest is my interest for what's mine is yours and what's yours is your own. If I have the privilege of building a house, I want you to help me and I will help you. Horace will want to build a house for some of his father's family if they should come up and there is plenty of timber in the hills. When my family comes up, we may conclude to settle somewhere else. If so, there will be plenty to buy us out if we shall have made any improvements. I want you all to be prudent and take care of your horses, cattle and everything entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and probably will be done for those who stay here, to go back on the Sweet Water and kill buffalo, etc., for winter consumption. We shall go tomorrow if Brigham is well enough, in search of a better location--if indeed, such can be found--if not, we shall remain here. There should be an enclosure made for the purpose of keeping the horses and cattle in nights for there are plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should advise you to keep the Sabbath day holy whether others do or not. I want you to put all the seed into the ground that you think will come to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as well here as any other seed we can grow. I want also some peach stones and apple seeds to be planted forthwith. Brother Byard and Hans I would like to have immediately engage in making garments of buck skins, Brother Cloward in making shoes and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as practicable. If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country, select a week day and not the Lord's day for that purpose. Do not let us get giddy and light minded as the Nephites did of old, but strive to work righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached the promised land. If it is advisable to work in a family capacity, we will do so; and if in a church capacity, we should be equally willing to do that. I am going out on a scout with the brethren and I shall probably want one or two of you to go with me and also one or two wagons. I am not going to take anything back with me to Winter Quarters except what is actually necessary--even some of my clothes I shall leave behind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a steady and economical man, and as such I recommend him to you. I want every man to be as industrious as possible while I am gone and get into the ground all the turnips, cabbage and other seeds you can. In case a storm of snow should come on, it would be advisable to drive all the cattle among the willows where they can remain until the snow goes off. I want you all to work together until such time as every man can have his inheritance set off to him. I feel towards you as a father towards his children and I want you to banish all peevishness from your midst and accommodate yourselves as much as possible to each other's wishes. I have it to say that my boys have been faithful to their various duties on this journey and other people have noticed it and expressed the opinion that they never saw such an attentive set of men in their lives, and I consider that their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want you to be sober and prayerful and remember me and my family in your prayers." A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother Heber and then we closed the meeting by prayer.

At 2:00 p.m. the brethren again assembled within the camp and were successively addressed by Elders Woodruff, Orson Pratt and W. Richards sustaining the ideas advanced by the other brethren this morning. Some remarks followed from Lorenzo Young, John Pack and others and the meeting was dismissed. It is contemplated to send some wagons back to lighten the loads and assist the next company over these rough roads. It is now certain that there is considerable timber in the ravines and valleys between the mountains, several large bodies having been seen by the brethren since our arrival. There is a mountain lying northeast from here on which is considerably large timber. It is supposed to be about ten miles distance. The northern expedition is given up for the present on account of President Young's health. A company intend to go tomorrow to the lake and survey that region. If they go, they will probably be gone a day or two.

Monday, July 26

Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early, others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this. About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition. I immediately started and found the company consisted of President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith, Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps, nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large, hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith, Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it, there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs. Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower, but it passed off to the east.

Tuesday, July 27

Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size, pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual price is three charges. This is wrong.

Wednesday, July 28

Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade. The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought in market.

There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.

There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot. At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the city, etc.

Thursday, July 29

We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower. It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.

Friday, July 30

Day warm. Twelve held a council with the officer of the battalion, then rode up to the hot spring. Evening a general meeting of the camp and addressed by President Young. He told his feelings concerning the soldiers, they have saved the people by going when required, etc. He rejoiced that they are here. He expressed his feelings warmly towards the brethren and also told his feelings towards the gentiles. The meeting was opened by hosannas three times and closed by requesting the battalion to build a bower tomorrow on the temple lot where we can assemble for meetings, etc.

Saturday, July 31

This morning the brethren commenced making the bower on the temple lot a little southwest from our camp. They will make it about forty feet long and twenty-eight feet wide. Walked with President Young, Kimball, Richards and others to the Mississippi camp. Brother Thomas Richardson is very sick and several others of the soldiers. Soloman Tindal is yet alive but looks feeble. Elder Kimball conversed sometime with Captain James Brown. There are from twenty to thirty of the Utah Indians here and some squaws trading with the brethren. They are generally of low stature, pleasing countenance but poorly clad. While we were there, a dispute arose between two of the young men and they went to fighting very fiercely. One broke his gun stock on the other's head and I expected to see a pretty serious affray, many of the others gathering around. Soon an old man came up, father to one of the young men engaged in the quarrel and he used his heavy whip very freely about both their heads and faces. The antagonist of the son struck the old man and he immediately gathered a long pole and broke it over the young man's head. He succeeded in quelling the broil and gave them a long lecture. They then mostly left and resumed their trading a little distance from the camp. In the afternoon, we had a pretty smart thunder shower and considerable wind. In the evening I walked down to the Pueblo camp and there learned the following particulars:

These Indians who are now here are of the Shoshones, about fifteen or twenty in number, and several women among them. There were four or five of the Utahs here this morning when the Shoshones came up. One of the Utahs had stolen a horse from one of the Shoshones and the latter party saw him with the horse here. He had traded the horse for a rifle but was unwilling either to give up the horse or rifle hence the quarrel spoken of above. When the old man separated them, the thief went down and hid himself in the camp below. Soon after, he saw another horse walking by, which he knew to belong to the Shoshones. He sprang on his own horse and drove the other one before him towards the mountains on the southeast as hard as he could ride. The Shoshones being informed of it, four of them started in pursuit and as he got in between the mountains they closed in on him, one of the pursuers shooting him dead while another one shot his horse. They returned and made this report to the others of the tribe at the camp at the same time exhibiting fresh blood on one of the rifles. They appear to be much excited and continually on the watch. When the men returned, they sat down and made a meal of some of these large crickets. They appear to be crisped over the fire which is all the cooking required. Many of the brethren have traded muskets and rifles for horses and ordinary muskets will buy a pretty good horse. They appear to be displeased because we have traded with the Utahs and say they own this land, that that the Utahs have come over the line, etc. They signified by signs that they wanted to sell us the land for powder and lead. The Shoshones are poorer clad than the Utahs. They are about the same in stature and there are many pleasing countenances among them. Colonel Markham reports that there are three lots of land already broke. One lot of thirty-five acres of which two-thirds is already planted with buckwheat, corn, oats, etc. One lot of eight acres which is all planted with corn, potatoes, beans, etc. And a garden of ten acres, four acres of which is sown with garden seed. He says there are about three acres of corn already up about two inches above the ground and some beans and potatoes up too. This is the result of eight days' labor, besides making a road to the timber, hauling and sawing timber for a boat, making and repairing plows, etc. There have been thirteen plows and three harrows worked during the week.