Observations and reflections on the present and future state of Upper Louisiana, in relation to the government of the Indian nations inhabiting that country, and the trade and intercourse with the same. By captain Lewis. With a view to a more complete development of this subject, I have deemed it expedient in the outset, to state the leading measures pursued by the provincial government of Spain, in relation to this subject; the evils which flowed from those measures, as well to the Indians as to the whites, in order that we may profit by their errors, and be ourselves the better enabled to apply the necessary correctives to the remnant of evils which their practice introduced. From the commencement of the Spanish provincial government in Louisiana, whether by the permission of the crown, or originating in the pecuniary rapacity of their governors general, this officer assumed to himself exclusively the right of trading with all the Indian nations in Louisiana; and therefore proceeded to dispose of this privilege to individuals, for certain specific sums; his example was imitated by the governors of Upper Louisiana, who made a further exaction. Those exclusive permissions to individuals varied as to the extent of country or nations they embraced, and the period for which granted; but in all cases the exclusive licenses were offered to the highest bidder, and, consequently, the sums paid by the individuals purchasing, were quite as much as the profits of the trade would bear, and in many instances, from a spirit of opposition between contending applicants, much more was given than ever the profits of the traffic would justify. The individual, of course, became bankrupt. This, however, was among the least of the evils flowing from this system to the Indian; it produced the evil of compelling him to pay such enormous sums for the articles he purchased, that his greatest exertions would not enable him to obtain as much as he had previously been in the habit of consuming, and which he therefore conceived necessary to him; for as this system progressed the demands of the governors became more exorbitant, and the trader, to meet his engagements, exacted higher prices from the Indians, though the game became scarcer in their country. The morals of the Indian were corrupted by placing before him the articles which he viewed as of the first necessity to him, at such prices, that he had it not in his power to purchase; he was therefore induced, in many instances, to take by force that which he had not the means of paying for; consoling himself with the idea, that the trader was compelled of necessity to possess himself of the peltries and furs, in order to meet his engagements with those from whom he had purchased his merchandise, as well as those who had assisted him in their transportation. He consequently could not withdraw himself from their trade, without inevitable ruin. The prevalence of this sentiment among the Indians, was strongly impressed on my mind by an anecdote related to me by a gentleman, who had for several years enjoyed, under the Spanish government, the exclusive privilege of trading with the Little Osages. It happened, that after he had bartered with them for all their peltries and furs which they had on hand, that they seized forcibly on a number of guns and a quantity of ammunition which he had still remaining; he remonstrated with them against this act of violence, and finally concluded by declaring that he would never return among them again, nor would he suffer any person to bring them merchandise thereafter. They heard him out very patiently, when one of their leaders pertly asked him; if he did not return the next season to obtain their peltries and furs, how he intended to pay the persons from whom he had purchased the merchandise they had then taken from him? The Indians believed that these traders were the most powerful persons in the nation; nor did they doubt their ability to withhold merchandise from them; but the great thirst displayed by the traders for the possession of their peltries and furs, added to the belief that they were compelled to continue their traffic, was considered by the Indians a sufficient guarantee for the continuance of their intercourse, and therefore felt themselves at liberty to practise aggressions on the traders with impunity: thus they governed the trader by what they conceived his necessities to possess their furs and peltries, rather than governing themselves by their own anxiety to obtain merchandise, as they may most effectually be by a well regulated system. It is immaterial to the Indians how they obtain merchandise; in possession of a supply they feel independent. The Indians found by a few experiments of aggression on the traders, that as it respected themselves, it had a salutary effect; and although they had mistaken the legitimate cause of action on the part of the trader, the result being favourable to themselves, they continued their practice. The fact is, that the trader was compelled to continue his trade under every disadvantage, in order to make good his engagements to the governors; for having secured their protection, they were safe, both in person and property from their other creditors, who were, for the most part, the merchants of Montreal. The first effect of these depredations of the Indians, was the introduction of a ruinous custom among the traders, of extending to them a credit. The traders, who visited the Indians on the Missouri, arrived at their wintering stations from the latter end of September to the middle of October: here they carried on their traffic until the latter end of March or beginning of April. In the course of the season they had possessed themselves of every skin the Indians had procured, of course there was an end of trade; but previous to their return, the Indians insist upon a credit being given on the faith of payment when he returned the next season. The trader understands his situation, and knowing this credit was nothing less than the price of his passport, or the privilege of departing in safety to his home, of course narrowed down the amount of this credit, by concealing, as far as he could, to avoid the suspicions of the Indians, the remnant of his merchandise. But the amount to be offered must always be such as they had been accustomed to receive; and which in every case, bore a considerable proportion to their whole trade; say the full amount of their summer or redskin hunt. The Indians well knew that the traders were in their power, and the servile motives which induced them to extend their liberality to them, and were therefore the less solicitous to meet their engagements on the day of payment; to this indifference they were further urged by the traders distributing among them, on those occasions, many articles of the last necessity to them. The consequence was, that when the traders returned the ensuing fall, if they obtained only one half of their credits they were well satisfied, as this covered their real expenditure. Again, if it so happen, in the course of the winter’s traffic, that the losses of the trader, growing out of the indolence of the Indians, and their exorbitant exactions under the appellation of credit, should so reduce his stock in trade that he could not pay the governor the price stipulated for his license, and procure a further supply of goods in order to prosecute his trade, the license was immediately granted to some other individual, who, with an ample assortment of merchandise, visits the place of rendezvous of his predecessor, without the interpolation of a single season. It did not unfrequently happen, that the individuals engaged in this commerce, finding one of their number failing from the rapacity of the Indian nation, with which he had been permitted to trade, were not so anxious to possess themselves of the privilege of trading with that nation; the governor, of course, rather than lose all advantages, would abate of his demands considerably. The new trader thus relieved of a considerable proportion of the tax borne by his predecessor, and being disposed to make a favourable impression on the minds of the Indians, to whom he was about to introduce himself, would, for the first season at least, dispose of his goods to those Indians on more moderate terms than his predecessor had done. The Indians now find that the aggressions they have practised on their former trader, so far from proving detrimental to them, had procured not only their exoneration from the payment of the last credit given them by their former trader, but that the present trader furnished them goods on better terms than they had been accustomed to receive them. Thus encouraged by the effects of this rapacious policy, it was not to be expected that they would alter their plan of operation as it respected their new trader; or that they should appreciate the character of the whites in general in any other manner, than as expressed in a prevailing sentiment on this subject, now common among several nations on the Missouri, to wit: “that the white men are like dogs, the more you beat them and plunder them, the more goods they will bring you, and the cheaper they will sell them.” This sentiment constitutes, at present, the rule of action among the Kanzas, Sioux, and others; and if it be not broken down by the adoption of some efficient measures, it needs not the aid of any deep calculation to determine the sum of advantages which will result to the American people from the trade of the Missouri. These aggressions on the part of the Indians, were encouraged by the pusillanimity of the engagees, who declared that they were not engaged to fight. The evils which flowed from this system of exclusive trade, were sensibly felt by the inhabitants of Louisiana. The governor, regardless of the safety of the community, sold to an individual the right of vending among the Indians every species of merchandise; thus bartering, in effect, his only efficient check on the Indians. The trader, allured by the hope of gain, neither shackled with discretion, nor consulting the public good, proceeded to supply the Indians, on whom he was dependent, with arms, ammunition, and all other articles they might require. The Indian, thus independent, acknowledging no authority but his own, will proceed without compunction of conscience or fear of punishment, to wage war on the defenceless inhabitants of the frontier, whose lives and property, in many instances, were thus sacrificed at the shrine of an inordinate thirst for wealth in their governors, which in reality occasioned all those evils. Although the governors could not have been ignorant that the misfortunes of the people were caused by the independence of the Indians, to which they were accessory, still they were the more unwilling to apply the corrective; because the very system which gave them wealth in the outset, in the course of its progress, afforded them many plausible pretexts to put their hands into the treasury of the king their master. For example; the Indians attack the frontier, kill some of the inhabitants, plunder many others, and agreeably to their custom of warfare, retire instantly to their villages with their booty. The governor informed of this transaction, promptly calls on the inhabitants to aid and assist in repelling the invasion. Accordingly a party assemble under their officers, some three or four days after the mischief had been done, and the Indians, one hundred, or one hundred and fifty miles from them, they pursue them, as they usually did, at no rapid pace, three or four days, and returned without overtaking the enemy, as they might have well known before they set out. On their return the men were dismissed, but ordered to hold themselves in readiness at a moment’s warning. When at the end of some two or three months, the governor chose to consider the danger blown over, he causes receipts to be made out for the full pay of two or three months service, to which the signatures of the individuals are affixed; but as those persons were only absent from their homes ten or twelve days, all that was really paid them, did not amount to more than one fourth or one fifth of what they receipted for, and the balance of course was taken by the governor, as the reward for his faithful guardianship of the lives and property of his majesty’s subjects. The Spaniards holding the entrance of the Missouri, could regulate as they thought proper the intercourse with the Indians through that channel; but from what has been said, it will be readily perceived, that their traders, shackled with the pecuniary impositions of their governors, could never become the successful rivals of the British merchants on the west side of the Mississippi, which, from its proximity to the United States, the latter could enter without the necessity of a Spanish passport, or the fear of being detected by them. The consequence was that the trade of the rivers Demoin, St. Peter’s, and all the country west of the Mississippi nearly to the Missouri, was exclusively enjoyed by the British merchants. The Spanish governors, stimulated by their own sordid views, declared that the honour of his majesty was grossly compromitted by the liberty that those adventurers took in trading with the natives within his territory, without their permission, and therefore took the liberty of expending his majesty’s money by equipping and manning several galleys to cruise in the channels of the Mississippi in order to intercept those traders of the St. Peter’s and Demoin rivers, in their passage to and from the entrance of the Oisconsing river; but after several unsuccessful cruises, and finding the Indians so hostile to them in this quarter, that they dare not land nor remain long in the channel without being attacked, they therefore retired and gave over the project. The Indians were friendly to the British merchants, and unfriendly to the Spanish, for the plain reason that the former sold them goods at a lower rate. The Ayaways, Sacks, Foxes and Yanktons of the river Demoin, who occasionally visited the Missouri, had it in their power to compare the rates at which the Spanish merchant in that quarter, and the British merchant on the Mississippi sold their goods; this was always much in favour of the latter; it therefore availed the Spaniard but little, when they inculcated the doctrine of their being their only legitimate fathers and friends, and that the British merchants were mere intruders, and had no other object in view but their own aggrandizement. The Indians, deaf to this doctrine, estimated the friendship of both by the rates at which they respectively sold their merchandise; and of course remained the firm friends of the British. In this situation it is not difficult for those to conceive who have felt the force of their machinations, that the British merchants would, in order to extend their own trade, endeavour to break down that of their neighbours on the Missouri. The attachments of the Indians to them, afforded a formidable weapon with which to effect their purposes, nor did they suffer it to remain unemployed. The merchants of the Dog prairie, rivers Demoin and Ayaway, stimulated the nations just mentioned to the commission of acts of rapacity on the merchants of the Missouri, nor was Mr. Cameron and others, merchants of the river St. Peter’s, less active with respect to the Cissitons, Yanktons of the plains, Tetons, &c. who resort the Missouri occasionally still higher up. War parties of those nations were consequently found lying in wait on the Missouri, to intercept the boats of the merchants of that river at the seasons they were expected to pass, and depredations were frequently committed, particularly by the Ayaways, who have been known in several instances to capture boats on the Missouri, in their descent to St. Louis, and compelled the crews to load themselves with heavy burdens of their best furs across the country to towns, where they disposed of them to the British merchants. In those cases they always destroyed the periogues, and such of the peltries and furs as they could not carry off. It may be urged, that the British merchants knowing that the United States, at present, through mere courtesy, permit them to extend their trade to the west side of the Mississippi; or rather that they are mere tenants at will, and that the United States possess the means of ejecting them at pleasure; that they will, under these circumstances, be induced to act differently towards us than they did in relation to the Spanish government; but what assurance have we that this will be the effect of the mere change of governments without change of measures in relation to them. Suffer me to ask what solid grounds there are to hope that their gratitude for our tolerance and liberality on this subject, will induce them to hold a different policy towards us. None, in my opinion, unless we stimulate their gratitude by placing before their eyes the instruments of our power in the form of one or two garrisons on the upper part of the Mississippi. Even admit that the people were actuated by the most friendly regard towards the interests of the United States, and at this moment made a common cause with us to induce the Indians to demean themselves in an orderly manner towards our government, and to treat our traders of the Missouri with respect and friendship, yet, without some efficient check on the Indians, I should not think our citizens nor our traders secure; because the Indians, who have for ten years and upwards, derived advantages from practice on lessons of rapacity taught them by those traders, cannot at a moment be brought back to a state of primitive innocence, by the united persuasions of all the British traders. I hold it an axiom, incontrovertible, that it is more easy to introduce vice into all states of society than it is to eradicate it; and that this is still more strictly true, when applied to man in savage than in his civilized state. If, therefore, we wish, within some short period, to devest ourselves of the evils which flowed from the inculcation of those doctrines of vice, we must employ some more active agent than the influence of the same teachers who first introduced them. Such an agent, in my opinion, is the power of withholding their merchandise from them at pleasure; and to accomplish this, we must first provide the means of controlling the merchants. If we permit the British merchants to supply the Indians in Louisiana as formerly, the influence of our government over those Indians is lost. For the Indian in possession of his merchandise, feels himself independent of every government, and will proceed to commit the same depredations which they did when rendered independent by the Spanish system. The traders give themselves but little trouble at any time to inculcate among the Indians a respect for governments; but are usually content with proclaiming their own importance. When the British merchants give themselves trouble to speak of governments, it is but fair to presume that they will teach the natives to respect the power of their own. And at all events, we know from experience that no regard for the blood of our frontier inhabitants will influence them at any time to withhold arms and ammunition from the Indians, provided they are to profit by furnishing them. Having now stated, as they have occurred to my mind, the several evils which flowed from that system of intercourse with the Indians, pursued by the Spanish government, I shall next endeavour to point out the defects of our own, and show its incompetency to produce the wished for reform; then, with some remarks on the Indian character, conclude by submitting for the consideration of our government, the outlines of a plan which has been dictated as well by a sentiment of philanthropy toward the aborigines of America, as a just regard to the protection of the lives and property of our citizens; and with the further view also of securing to the people of the United States, exclusively, the advantages which ought of right to accrue to them from the possession of Louisiana. We now permit the British merchants of Canada, indiscriminately with our own, to enter the Missouri, and trade with the nations in that quarter. Although the government of the U. States has not yielded the point that, as a matter of right, the British merchants have the privilege of trading in this quarter; yet from what has been said to them, they are now acting under a belief, that it will be some time before any prohibitory measures will be taken with respect to them; and are therefore making rapid strides to secure themselves in the affection of the Indians, and to break down, as soon as possible, the American adventurers, by underselling them, and thus monopolize that trade: this they will effect to an absolute certainty in the course of a few years. The old Northwest company of Canada have, within the last two years, formed a union with the Newyork company, who had previously been the only important rivals in the fur trade; this company, with the great accession of capital brought them by the Newyork company, have, with a view to the particular monopoly of the Missouri, formed a connexion with a British house in Newyork, another at New Orleans, and have sent their particular agent, by the name of Jacob Mires, to take his station at St. Louis. It may be readily conceived that the union of the Northwest and Newyork companies, who had previously extended their trade in opposition to each other, and to the exclusion of all unassociated merchants on the upper portion of the Mississippi, the waters of lake Winnipec and the Athebaskey country, would, after their late union, have a surplus of capital and a surplus of men, which they could readily employ in some other quarter: such was the Missouri, which, from the lenity of our government, they saw was opened to them; and I do believe, could the fact be ascertained, that the hope of future gain from the fur trade of that river, was one of the principal causes of the union between those two great rivals in the fur trade of North America. That this trade will be nurtured and protected by the British government, I have no doubt, for many reasons, which it strikes me could be offered, but which, not failing immediately within the purview of these observations on the fur trade of Louisiana, I shall forbear to mention. As the Missouri forms only one of four large branches of the commerce of this united, or as it is still called, the Northwest company, they will have it in their power, not only to break down all single adventurers on the Missouri, but in the course of a few years to effect the same thing with a company of merchants of the United States, who might enter into a competition with them in this single branch of their trade. Nor is it probable that our merchants, knowing this fact, will form a company for the purpose of carrying on this trade, while they see the Northwest company permitted by our government to trade on the Missouri, and on the west side of the Mississippi: therefore, the Northwest company, on the present plan, having driven the adventurers of small capitals from these portions of our territory, will most probably never afterwards have a rival in any company of our own merchants. By their continuance they will acquire strength, and having secured the wished-for monopoly, they will then trade with the Indians on their own terms; and being possessed of the trade, both on the Mississippi and Missouri, they can make the price of their goods in both quarters similar, and though they may be excessively high, yet being the same they will run no risk of disaffecting the Indians by a comparison of the prices at which they receive their goods at those places. If then it appears, that the longer we extend the privilege to the Northwest company of continuing their trade within our territory, the difficulty of excluding them will increase: can we begin the work of exclusion too soon? For my own part I see not the necessity to admit, that our own merchants are not at this moment competent to supply the Indians of the Missouri with such quantities of goods as will, at least in the acceptation of the Indians themselves, be deemed satisfactory and sufficient for their necessities. All their ideas relative to their necessities are only comparative, and may be tested by a scale of the quantities they have been in the habit of receiving. Such a scale I transmitted to the government from fort Mandan. From a regard to the happiness of the Indians, it would give me much pleasure to see this scale liberally increased; yet I am clearly of opinion, that this effect should be caused by the regular progression of the trade of our own merchants, under the patronage and protection of our own government. This will afford additional security to the tranquillity of our much extended frontier, while it will give wealth to our merchants. We know that the change of government in Louisiana, from Spain to that of the United States, has withdrawn no part of that capital formerly employed in the trade of the Missouri; the same persons still remain, and continue to prosecute their trade. To these there has been an accession of several enterprising American merchants, and several others since my return have signified their intention to embark in that trade, within the present year; and the whole of those merchants are now unembarrassed by the exactions of Spanish governors. Under those circumstances is it fair for us to presume that the Indians are not now supplied by our own merchants, with quite as large an amount in merchandise as they had been formerly accustomed to receive? Should the quantity thus supplied not fully meet our wishes on liberal views, towards the Indians, is it not sounder policy to wait the certain progress of our own trade, than in order to supply this momentary deficiency, to admit the aid of the Northwest company, at the expense of the total loss of that trade; thereby giving them a carte blanch on which to write in future their own terms of traffic with the Indians, and thus throwing them into their hands, permit them to be formed into a rod of iron, with which, for Great Britain, to scourge our frontier at pleasure. If the British merchants were prohibited from trading in upper Louisiana, the American merchants, with the aid of the profits arising from the trade of the lower portion of the Missouri and the western branches of the Mississippi, would be enabled most probably to become the successful rivals of the Northwest company in the more distant parts of the continent; to which we might look, in such case, with a well-founded hope of enjoying great advantages from the fur trade; but if this prohibition does not shortly take place, I will venture to predict that no such attempts will ever be made, and, consequently, that we shall for several generations be taxed with the defence of a country, which to us would be no more than a barren waste. About the beginning of August last, two of the wintering partners of the Northwest company, visited the Mandan and Minnetaree villages on the Missouri, and fixed on a scite for a fortified establishment. This project once carried into effect, we have no right to hope for the trade of the upper portion of the Missouri, until our government shall think proper to dislodge them. This season there has been sent up the Missouri, for the Indian trade, more than treble the quantity of merchandise that has ever been previously embarked in that trade at any one period. Of this quantity, as far as I could judge from the best information I could collect, two-thirds was the property of British merchants, and directly or indirectly that of the Northwest company. Not any of this merchandise was destined for a higher point on the Missouri than the mouth of the Vermillion river, or the neighbourhood of the Yanktons of the river Demoin; of course, there will be a greater excess of goods beyond what the Indians can purchase, unless they sell at one-third their customary price, which the American merchant certainly cannot do without sacrificing his capital. On my return this fall, I met on the Missouri an American merchant by the name of Robert McClellan, formerly a distinguished partisan in the army under general Wayne: in a conversation with this gentleman, I learned that during the last winter, in his trade with the Mahas, he had a competitor by the name of Joseph La Croix (believed to be employed by the Northwest company, but now is an avowed British merchant)—that the prices at which La Croix sold his goods, compelled him to reduce the rates of his own goods so much as to cause him to sink upwards of two thousand dollars of his capital, in the course of his trade, that season; but that as he had embarked in this trade for two years past, and had formed a favourable acquaintance with the Mahas and others, he should still continue it a few seasons more, even at a loss of his time and capital, in the hope that government seeing the error would correct it, and that he might then regain his losses, from the circumstance of his general acquaintance with the Indians. I also met in my way to St. Louis, another merchant, by the same name, a captain M’Clellan, formerly of the United States’ corps of artillerists. This gentleman informed me that he was connected with one of the principal houses in Baltimore, which I do not now recollect, but can readily ascertain the name and standing of the firm, if it is considered of any importance; he said he had brought with him a small but well assorted adventure, calculated for the Indian trade, by way of experiment; that the majority of his goods were of the fine high-priced kind, calculated for the trade with the Spanish province of New Mexico, which he intended to carry on within the territory of the United States, near the border of that province; that connected with this object, the house with which he was concerned was ready to embark largely in the fur trade of the Missouri, provided it should appear to him to offer advantages to them. That since he had arrived in Louisiana, which was last autumn, he had endeavoured to inform himself of the state of this trade, and that from his inquiries, he had been so fully impressed with the disadvantages it laboured under from the free admission of the British merchants, he had written to his house in Baltimore, advising that they should not embark in this trade, unless these merchants were prohibited from entering the river. I have mentioned these two as cases in point, and which have fallen immediately under my own observation: the first shows the disadvantages under which the trade of our own merchants is now actually labouring; and the second, that no other merchants will probably engage in this trade, while the British fur traders are permitted by our government to continue their traffic in Upper Louisiana. With this view of the subject, it is submitted to the government, with whom it alone rests to decide whether the admission or non-admission of those merchants is at this moment most expedient. The custom of giving credits to the Indians, which grew out of the Spanish system, still exists, and agreeably to our present plan of intercourse with these people, is likely to produce more pernicious consequences than it did formerly. The Indians of the Missouri, who have been in the habit of considering these credits rather as a present, or the price of their permission for the trader to depart in peace, still continue to view it in the same light, and will therefore give up their expectations on that point with some reluctance; nor can the merchants well refuse to acquiesce, while they are compelled to be absent from the nations with which they trade five or six months in the year. The Indians are yet too vicious to permit them in safety to leave goods at their trading houses, during their absence, in the care of one or two persons; the merchant, therefore, would rather suffer the loss by giving the credit, than incur the expense of a competent guard, or doubling the quantity of his engagees, for it requires as many men to take the peltries and furs to market as it does to bring the goods to the trading establishment, and the number usually employed are not found at any time, more than sufficient to give a tolerable security against the Indians. I presume that it will not be denied, that it is our best policy, and will be our practice to admit, under the restrictions of our laws on this subject, a fair competition among all our merchants in the Indian trade. This being the case then, it will happen, as it has already happened, that one merchant having trade with any nation, at the usual season gives them a credit and departs: a second knowing that such advance had been made, hurries his outfit and arrives at that nation, perhaps a month earlier in the fall than the merchant who had made this advance to the Indians: he immediately assembles the nation and offers his goods in exchange for their redskin hunt; the good faith of the Indians, with respect to the absent merchant, will not bind them to refuse; an exchange, of course, takes place; and when the merchant to whom they are indebted arrives, they have no peltry, either to barter or to pay him for the goods which they have already received; the consequences are, that the merchant who has sustained the loss becomes frantic; he abuses the Indians, bestows on them the epithets of liars and dogs, and says a thousand things only calculated to sour their minds, and disaffect them to the whites: the rival trader he accuses of having robbed him of his credits (for they never give this species of artifice among themselves a milder term) and calls him many opprobrious names; a combat frequently ensues, in which the principals are not the only actors, for their men will, of course, sympathise with their respective employers. The Indians are the spectators of those riotous transactions, which are well calculated to give them a contempt for the character of the whites, and to inspire them with a belief of the importance of their peltries and furs. The British traders have even gone further in the northwest, and even offered bribes to induce the Indians to destroy each other; nor have I any reason to doubt but what the same thing will happen on the Missouri, unless some disinterested person, armed with authority by government, be placed in such a situation as will enable him to prevent such controversies. I look to this custom of extending credits to the Indians, as one of the great causes of all those individual contentions, which will most probably arise in the course of this trade, as well between the Indians and whites, as between the whites themselves; and that our agents and officers will be always harrassed with settling these disputes, which they never can do in such a manner as to restore a perfect good understanding between the parties. I think it would be best in the outset, for the government to let it be understood by the merchants, that if they think proper to extend credits to the Indians, it shall be at their own risk, dependent on the good faith of the Indians for voluntary payment; that the failure of the Indians to comply with their contracts, shall not be considered any justification for their maltreatment or holding abusive language to them, and that no assistance shall be given them in any shape by the public functionaries to aid them in collecting their credits. If the government interfere in behalf of the traders by any regulation, then it will be the interest of every trader individually to get the Indians indebted to him, and to keep them so in order to secure in future their peltries and furs exclusively to himself. Thus, the Indians would be compelled to exchange without choice of either goods or their prices, and the government would have pledged itself to make the Indians pay for goods, of which they cannot regulate the prices. I presume the government will not undertake to regulate the merchant in this respect by law. The difficulties which have arisen, and which must arise under existing circumstances, may be readily corrected by establishing a few posts, where there shall be a sufficient guard to protect the property of the merchants in their absence, though it may be left with only a single clerk: to those common marts, all traders and Indians should be compelled to resort for the purposes of traffic. The plan proposed guards against all difficulties, and provides for a fair exchange, without the necessity of credit: when the Indian appears with his peltry and fur, the competition between the merchants will always insure him his goods on the lowest possible terms, and the exchange taking place at once, there can be no cause of controversy between the Indian and the merchant, and no fear of loss on the part of the latter, unless he is disposed to make a voluntary sacrifice, through a spirit of competition with others, by selling his goods at an under value. Some of the stipulations contained in the licenses usually granted our Indian traders, are totally incompatible with the local situations, and existing customs and habits of almost all the Indian nations in Upper Louisiana. I allude more particularly to that clause in the license, which compels them to trade at Indian towns only. It will be seen by referrence to my statistical view of the Indian nations of Upper Louisiana, that the great body of those people are roving bands, who have no villages, or stationary residence. The next principal division of them, embracing the Panias, Ottoes, Kanzas, &c. have not their villages on the Missouri, and they even pass the greater portion of the year at a distance from their villages, in the same roving manner. The third, and only portion of those Indians, who can with propriety be considered as possessed of such stationary villages as seems to have been contemplated by this clause of the license, is confined to the Ayaways, Sioux, and Foxes of the Mississippi, and the Ricaras, Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ahwahaways of the Missouri. The consequence is, that until some further provision be made, that all the traders who have intercourse with any nations except those of the last class, will form their establishments at the several points on the Missouri, where it will be most convenient to meet the several nations with whom they wish to carry on commerce. This is their practice at the present moment, and their houses are scattered on various parts of the Missouri. In this detached situation, it cannot be expected that they will comply with any of the stipulations of their licenses. The superintendant of St. Louis, distant eight hundred or a thousand miles, cannot learn whether they have forfeited the penalty of their licenses or not; they may, therefore, vend ardent spirits, compromit the government, or the character of the whites, in the estimation of the Indians, or practice any other crimes in relation to those people, without the fear of detection or punishment. The government cannot with propriety, say to those traders, that they shall trade at villages, when in reality they do not exist; nor can they for a moment, I presume, think of incurring the expense of sending an Indian agent with each trader, to see that he commit no breach of the stipulations of his license. These traders must of course be brought together, at some general points, where it will be convenient for several nations to trade with them, and where they can be placed under the eye of an Indian agent, whose duty it should be to see that they comply with the regulations laid down for their government. There are crimes which may be committed without a breach of our present laws, and which make it necessary that some further restrictions than those contained in the present licenses of our traders, should either be added under penalties in those licenses, or punished by way of a discretionary power, lodged in the superintendent, extending to the exclusion of such individuals from the Indian trade. Of this description I shall here enumerate three: First, That of holding conversations with the Indians, tending to bring our government into disrepute among them, and to alienate their affections from the same. Second, That of practising any means to induce the Indians to maltreat or plunder other merchants. Third, That of stimulating or exciting by bribes or otherwise, any nations or bands of Indians, to wage war against other nations or bands; or against the citizens of the United States, or against citizens or subjects of any power at peace with the same. These appear to me to be crimes fraught with more real evil to the community and to the Indians themselves, than vending ardent spirits, or visiting their hunting camps for the purpose of trade; yet there are no powers vested in the superintendents, or agents of the United States, to prevent their repeated commission; nor restrictions or fines imposed by our laws, to punish such offences. It is well known to me that we have several persons engaged in the trade of the Missouri, who have, within the last three years, been adopted as citizens of the United States, and who are now hostile to our government. It is not reasonable to expect, that such persons will act with good faith towards us. Hence, the necessity of assigning metes and bounds to their transactions among the Indians. On my way to St. Louis, last fall, I received satisfactory evidence that a Mr. Robideau, an inhabitant of St. Louis, had, the preceding winter, during his intercourse with the Ottoes and Missouris, been guilty of the most flagrant breaches of the first of those misdemeanors above mentioned. On my arrival at St. Louis, I reported the case to Mr. Broom, the acting superintendent, and recommended his prohibiting that person from the trade of the Missouri, unless he would give satisfactory assurances of a disposition to hold a different language to the Indians. Mr. Broom informed me, that the laws and regulations of the United States on this subject, gave him no such powers; and Mr. Robideau and sons still prosecute their trade. The uncontrolled liberty which our citizens take of hunting on Indian lands, has always been a source of serious difficulty, on every part of our frontier, and is evidently destined to become quite as much so in Upper Louisiana, unless it be restrained and limited within consistent bounds. When the Indians have been taught, by commerce, duly to appreciate the furs and peltries of their country, they feel excessive chagrin at seeing the whites, by their superior skill in hunting, fast diminishing those productions, to which they have been accustomed to look as the only means of acquiring merchandise; and nine-tenths of the causes of war are attributable to this practice. The Indians, although well disposed to maintain a peace on any other terms, I am convinced will never yield this point; nor do I consider it as of any importance to us that they should; for with what consistency of precept and practice can we say to the Indians, whom we wish to civilize, that agriculture and the arts are more productive of ease, wealth, and comfort, than the occupation of hunting, while they see distributed over their forests a number of white men, engaged in the very occupation which our doctrine would teach them to abandon. Under such circumstances, it cannot be considered irrational in the Indians, to conclude, that our recommendations to agriculture are interested, and flow from a wish on our part to derive the whole emolument arising from the peltries and furs of their country, by taking them to ourselves. These observations, however, are intended to apply only to such Indian nations as have had, and still maintain a commercial intercourse with the whites: such we may say are those inhabiting the western branches of the Mississippi, the eastern branches of the Missouri, and near the main body of the latter, as far up as the Mandans and Minnetarees. Here it is, therefore, that it appears to me expedient we should draw a line; and temporarily change our policy. I presume it is not less the wish of our government, that the Indians on the extreme branches of the Missouri to the west, and within the Rocky mountains, should obtain supplies of merchandise equally with those more immediately in their vicinity. To effect this, the government must either become the merchant themselves, or present no obstacles to their citizens, which may prevent their becoming so with those distant nations; but as the former cannot be adopted (though I really think it would be best for a time) then it becomes the more necessary to encourage the latter. Policy further dictates such encouragement being given, in order to contravene the machinations preparing by the Northwest company for practice in that quarter. If the hunters are not permitted in those distant regions, the merchants will not be at the expense of transporting their merchandise thither, when they know that the natives do not possess the art of taking the furs of their country. The use of the trap, by which those furs are taken, is an art which must be learned before it can be practised to advantage. If the American merchant does not adventure, the field is at once abandoned to the Northwest company, who will permit the hunter to go, and the merchant will most probably be with him in the outset; the abundance of rich furs in that country, hold out sufficient inducement for them to lose no time in pressing forward their adventures. Thus those distant Indians will soon be supplied with merchandise; and while they are taught the art of taking the furs of their country, they will learn the value, and until they have learnt its value, we shall run no risk of displeasing them by taking it. When the period shall arrive that the distant nations shall have learned the art of taking their furs, and know how to appreciate its value, then the hunter becomes no longer absolutely necessary to the merchant, and may be withdrawn; but in the outset, he seems to form a very necessary link in that chain which is to unite these nations and ourselves in a state of commercial intercourse. The liberty to our merchants of hunting, for the purpose of procuring food, in ascending and descending the navigable water-courses, as well as while stationary at their commercial posts, is a privilege which should not be denied them; but as the unlimited extent of such a privilege would produce much evil, it should certainly be looked on as a subject of primary importance: it should, therefore, enter into all those compacts which we may think proper to form with the Indians in that country, and be so shaped as to leave them no solid grounds of discontent. The time to which licenses shall extend. A view of the Indian character, so far as it is necessary it should be known, for the purposes of governing them, or maintaining a friendly commercial intercourse with them, may be comprised within the limits of a few general remarks. The love of gain is the Indians’ ruling passion, and the fear of punishment must form the corrective; to this passion we are to ascribe their inordinate thirst for the possession of merchandise, their unwillingness to accede to any terms, or enter into any stipulations, except such as appear to promise them commercial advantages, and the want of good faith, which they always evince by not complying with any regulations, which in practice do not produce to them those expected or promised advantages. The native justice of the Indian mind, will always give way to his impatience for the possession of the goods of the defenceless merchant, and he will plunder him, unless prevented by the fear of punishment; nor can punishment assume a more terrific shape to them, than that of withholding every description of merchandise from them. This species of punishment, while it is one of the most efficient in governing the Indians, is certainly the most humane, as it enforces a compliance with our will, without the necessity of bloodshed. But in order to compass the exercise of this weapon, our government must first provide the means of controlling their traders. No government will be respected by the Indians until they are made to feel the effects of its power, or see it practised on others; and the surest guarantee of savage fidelity to any government, is a thorough conviction in their minds that they do possess the power of punishing promptly, every act of aggression, which they may commit on the persons or property of their citizens. If both traders and Indians throughout Upper Louisiana, were compelled to resort to regulated commercial posts, then the trader would be less liable to be pillaged, and the Indians deterred from practising aggression; for when the Indians once become convinced, that in consequence of their having practised violence upon the persons or property of the traders, that they have been cut off from all intercourse with those posts, and that they cannot resort to any other places to obtain merchandise, then they will make any sacrifice to regain the privilege they had previously enjoyed; and I am confident, that in order to regain our favour in such cases, they would sacrifice any individual who may be the object of our displeasure, even should he be their favourite chief; for their thirst of merchandise is paramount to every other consideration; and the leading individuals among them, well knowing this trait in the character of their own people, will not venture to encourage or excite aggressions on the whites, when they know they are themselves to become the victims of its consequences. But if, on the other hand, these commercial establishments are not general, and we suffer detached and insulated merchants, either British or American, to exercise their own discretion, in setting down where they may think proper, on the western branches of the Mississippi, for the purposes of trading with the Indians; then, although these commercial establishments may be so extended as to embrace the Missouri, quite to the Mandans, still they will lose a great part of their effects; because the roving bands of Tetons, and the most dissolute of the Siouxs being denied the permission to trade on the Missouri at any rate, would resort to those establishments on the Mississippi, and thus become independent of the trade of the Missouri, as they have hitherto been. To correct this, we have three alternatives: First, to establish two commercial posts in this quarter. Secondly, to prohibit all intercourse with the Sisitons, and other bands of Siouxs, on the river St. Peter’s and the Raven’s-wing river, informing those Indians that such prohibition has been the consequence of the malconduct of the Tetons, and thus leave it to them to correct them; or, Thirdly, to make an appeal to arms in order to correct the Tetons ourselves. Impressed with a belief unalloyed with doubts, that the ardent wish of our government has ever been to conciliate the esteem, and secure the friendship of all the savage nations within their territory, by the exercise of every consistent and pacific measure in their power, applying those of coertion only in the last resort, I here proceed with a due deference to their better judgment, to develop a scheme which has suggested itself to my mind, as the most expedient that I can devise for the successful consummation of their philanthropic views towards those wretched people of America, as well as to secure to the citizens of the United States, all those advantages, which ought of right exclusively to accrue to them, from the possession of Upper Louisiana. The situation of the Indian trade on the Missouri and its waters, while under the Spanish government. The exclusive permission to trade with nations. The giving by those exclusions, the right to individuals to furnish supplies, which rendered the Indians independent of the government. The times of sending goods to the Indians, and of returning to St. Louis—the necessity of giving credits; therefore the disadvantages of. The evils which grew out of the method pursued by the Spaniards, as well to themselves as to the Indians. The independence of individuals of their own government. The dependence of the Indians on those individuals, and their consequent contempt for the government, and for all other citizens whom they plundered and murdered at pleasure. The present rapacity of the Indians, owing to this cause, aided also by the system of giving credits to the Indians, which caused contentions among the traders, which terminated by giving the Indians a contempt for the character of whites. The permission to persons to hunt on Indian lands, productive of many evils, the most frequent causes of war, hostile to the views of civilizing, and of governing the Indians. The first principle of governing the Indians is to govern the whites—the impossibility of doing this without establishments, and some guards at the posts. The Sisitons may be made a check on the Tetons by withholding their trade on the Mississippi. Having stated the several evils which flowed from the Spanish system, I now state the Indian character, the evils which still exist, and what they will probably terminate in, if not redressed—the plan recommended to be pursued and the benefits which may be expected to result therefrom, conclude thus, it may be pretty confidently believed that it is not competent to produce the wished-for reform among the Indians. Hunters permitted in the Indian country pernicious—frequent cause of war between us. Some of the stipulations of the licenses granted the traders, in application to the state of the Indians on the Missouri, of course not attended to. The incompetence of the Indian agents to see that any of the stipulations are complied with. Whiskey, or ardent spirits may, therefore, be introduced, and other corruptions practised without our knowledge. There is not at present allowed by law to the superintendant of Indian affairs, any discretionary powers, by which he can prohibit our newly acquired citizens of Louisiana, who may be disaffected to our government, from trading with the Indians: the law says, that any citizen of the United States, who can give sufficient security for the sum of five hundred dollars, for the faithful compliance with the stipulation of his license, shall be permitted to trade. An instance has happened in Mr. Robideau, &c. The preceding observations of captain Lewis, although left in an unfinished state, are too important to be omitted. The premature death of the author has prevented his filling up the able outline that he has drawn. A summary statement of the rivers, creeks, and most remarkable places, their distances from each other, &c. their distances from the Mississippi, ascending the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains, and down the Columbia to the Pacific ocean, as was explored in the years 1804, 5, and 6, by captains Lewis and Clarke. Names of remarkable places. | The width of rivers and creeks in yards. | Side on which they are situated. | Distances from one place to another. | Distances up the Missouri from the Mississippi. | | Yards | | Miles | Miles | To the village of St. Charles | | N.E. | 21 | 21 | Osage-woman’s river | 30 | N.E. | 20 | 41 | Charrette’s village and creek | 20 | N.E. | 27 | 68 | Shepherd’s creek | | S.W. | 15 | 83 | Gasconade river | 157 | S.W. | 17 | 100 | Muddy river | 50 | N.E. | 15 | 115 | Grand Osage river | 397 | S.W. | 18 | 133 | Murrow creek | 20 | S.W. | 5 | 138 | Cedar island and creek | 20 | N.E. | 7 | 145 | Leadmine hill | | S.W. | 9 | 154 | Manitou creek | 20 | S.E. | 8 | 162 | Splitrock creek | 20 | N.E. | 8 | 170 | Saline, or Salt river | 30 | S.E. | 3 | 173 | Manitou river | 30 | N.E. | 9 | 182 | Goodwoman’s river | 35 | N.E. | 9 | 191 | Mine river | 70 | S.W. | 9 | 200 | Arrow prairie | | S.W. | 6 | 206 | Two Charleton rivers | 30/70 | N.E. | 14 | 220 | Ancient village of the Missouri nation, near which place Fort Orleans stood | | N.E. | 16 | 236 | Grand river | 90 | N.E. | 4 | 240 | Snake creek | 18 | N.E. | 6 | 246 | Ancient village of the Little Osages | | S.W. | 10 | 256 | Tigers’ island and creek | 25 | N.E. | 20 | 276 | Hubert’s island and creek | | S.W. | 12 | 388 | Fire-prairie creek | | S.W. | 12 | 300 | Fort Point | | S.W. | 6 | 306 | Haycabin creek | 20 | S.W. | 6 | 312 | Coalbank | | S.W. | 9 | 321 | Bluewater river | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 331 | Kanzas river | 230 | S.W. | 9 | 340 | Little river Platte | 60 | N.E. | 9 | 349 | To the First old Kanzas village | | S.W. | 28 | 377 | Independence creek, a mile below the second old Kanzas village | | S.W. | 28 | 405 | St. Michael’s prairie | | N.E. | 25 | 430 | Nodawa river | 70 | N.E. | 20 | 450 | Wolf, or Loup river | 60 | S.W. | 14 | 464 | Big Nemaha river | 80 | S.W. | 16 | 480 | Tarkio creek | 23 | N.E. | 3 | 483 | Neeshnabatona river | 50 | N.E. | 25 | 508 | Little Nemaha river | 48 | S.W. | 8 | 516 | Baldpated prairie, the Neeshnabatona within 150 yards of the Missouri | | N.E. | 23 | 539 | Weepingwater creek | 25 | S.W. | 29 | 568 | River Platt, or Shoal river | 600 | S.W. | 32 | 600 | Butterfly, or Papillon creek | 18 | S.W. | 3 | | Musquetoe creek | 22 | N.E. | 7 | 610 | Ancient village of the Ottoes | | S.W. | 11 | | Ancient Ayaways village, below a bluff, on the northeast side | | N.E. | 6 | | Bowyer’s river | 25 | N.E. | 11 | | Council bluffs (establishment) | | S.W. | 12 | 650 | Soldier’s river | 40 | N.E. | 39 | 689 | Eaneahwaudepon, (Little Sioux river) | 80 | N.E. | 44 | 733 | Waucarde, or Badspirit creek | | S.W. | 55 | 788 | Around a bend of the river to the northeast, the gorge of which is only 974 yards | | | 21 | 809 | To an island, 3 miles northeast of the Maha village | | | 27 | 836 | Floyd’s bluff and river | 35 | N.E. | 14 | 850 | To the Big Sioux river | 110 | N.E. | 3 | 858 | Commencement of the copperas, cobalt, pirites, and alum bluffs | | S.W. | 27 | 880 | Hot, or Burning bluffs | | S.W. | 30 | 910 | Whitestone river | 30 | N.E. | 8 | 918 | Petit-arc, an old Maha village, at the mouth of Littlebow creek | 15 | S.W. | 20 | 938 | River Jacques, or James’ river | 90 | N.E. | 12 | 950 | Calumet bluff (mineral) | | S.W. | 10 | 960 | Ancient fortification, Goodman’s island | | S.W. | 16 | 976 | To Plum creek | 12 | N.E. | 10 | 986 | Whitepoint creek | 28 | S.W. | 8 | 994 | Quicourre | 152 | S.W. | 6 | 1000 | To the Poncar river and village | 30 | S.W. | 10 | 1010 | To the dome and village of the burrowing squirrels | | S.W. | 20 | 1030 | Island of cedars | | | 45 | 1075 | To White river | 300 | S.W. | 55 | 1130 | To the Three rivers of the Sioux pass | 35 | N.E. | 22 | 1152 | An island in the commencement of the Big bend | | N.E. | 20 | 1172 | The upper part of the Big bend, the gorge of which is 1¼ miles | | S.W. | 30 | 1202 | To Tylor’s river | 35 | S.W. | 6 | 1208 | Loisel’s fort on Cedar island | | S.W. | 18 | 1226 | Teton river | 70 | S.W. | 37 | 1263 | The upper of five old Ricara villages, reduced by the Sioux, and abandoned | | S.W. | 42 | 1305 | To Chayenne river | 400 | S.W. | 5 | 1310 | An old Ricara village on Lahoocat’s island | | | 47 | 1357 | Sarwarkarna river | 90 | S.W. | 40 | 1397 | Wetarhoo river | 120 | S.W. | 25 | 1422 | The first Ricaras villages on an island | | S.W. | 4 | | Second Ricaras three villages | | S.W. | 4 | 1430 | Stone-idol creek | 18 | N.E. | 18 | | Warreconne river | 35 | N.E. | 40 | 1488 | Cannonball river | 140 | S.W. | 12 | 1500 | Chesschetar river, near six old Mandan villages | 38 | S.W. | 40 | 1540 | Old Ricara and Mandan villages | | S.W. | 40 | 1580 | To Fort Mandan (wintering post of 1804) | | N.E. | 20 | 1600 | The Mandan villages on each side | | | 4 | 1604 | To Knife river, on which the two Minnetaree and Maha villages are situated near the mouth | 80 | S.W. | 2 | 1606 | The Island | | | 11 | | Miry river | 10 | N.E. | 16 | 1633 | Island in the Little basin | | | 28 | | Little Missouri river | 134 | S.W. | 29 | 1690 | Wild-onion creek | 16 | N.E. | 12 | | Goose-egg lake | 300 | N.E. | 9 | | Chaboneau’s creek | 20 | S.W. | 16 | 1727 | Goatpen creek, Mouse river, waters of lake Winnipec near the Missouri | 20 | N.E. | 16 | 1743 | To Hall’s, strand, lake, and creek | | N.E. | 47 | 1790 | White-earth river | 60 | N.E. | 40 | 1840 | Rochejaune, or Yellowstone river | 858 | S.W. | 40 | 1880 | To Martha’s river | 50 | N.E. | 60 | 1940 | Porcupine river | 112 | N.E. | 50 | 1990 | To the Littledry creek | 25 | S.W. | 40 | 2030 | Bigdry creek | 100 | S.W. | 9 | | Littledry river | 200 | S.W. | 6 | 2045 | Gulf in the Island bend | | | 32 | | To Milk river | 150 | N.E. | 13 | 2090 | Bigdry river | 400 | S.W. | 25 | | Werner’s run | 10 | N.E. | 9 | | Pine creek | 20 | N.E. | 36 | 2160 | Gibson’s river | 35 | N.E. | 17 | 2177 | Brownbear-defeated creek | 40 | S.W. | 12 | | Bratton’s river | 100 | N.E. | 24 | 2213 | Burntlodge creek | 50 | S.W. | 6 | | Wiser’s creek | 40 | N.E. | 14 | 2233 | Muscleshell river | 110 | S.W. | 37 | 2270 | Grouse creek | 20 | N.E. | 30 | | North-mountain creek | 30 | N.E. | 36 | 2336 | South-mountain creek | 30 | S.W. | 18 | 2354 | Ibex island | | | 15 | | Goodrich’s island | | | 9 | 2378 | Windsor’s creek | 30 | N.E. | 7 | 2385 | Elk rapid (swift water) | | | 15 | 2400 | Thomson’s creek | 28 | N.E. | 27½ | 2427½ | Judith’s river | 100 | S.W. | 11½ | 2439 | Ash rapid (swift water) | | | 4 | | Slaughter river | 40 | S.W. | 11 | 2454 | Stonewall creek, above the natural walls | 30 | N.E. | 26 | 2480 | Maria’s river | 186 | N.E. | 41 | 2521 | Snow river | 50 | S.W. | 19 | | Shields’s river | 35 | S.W. | 28 | 2568 | The foot of the entrance of Portage river, five miles below the Great falls | 45 | S.W. | 7 | 2575 |
Leaving the Missouri below the falls, and passing by land to the navigable waters of the Columbia river. Names of remarkable places. | Width of the rivers and creeks. | Distance from one place to another. | Distance from the falls of the Missouri. | Distance from the Mississippi. | | Yards. | Miles. | Miles. | Miles. | To the entrance of Medicine river | 137 | 18 | 18 | 2593 | Fort Mountain, passing through the plain between Medicine river and the Missouri, near the Missouri | | 15 | 33 | 2603 | Rocky mountains, to a gap on the ridge, which divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia passing the north part of a mountain and crossing Dearborn’s river | | 35 | 68 | 2643 | Fork of Cohahlarishkit river from the north, passed four creeks from the north | 45 | 40 | 108 | 2683 | To Seaman’s creek from the north | 20 | 7 | 115 | | Werner’s creek from the north | 35 | 10 | 125 | 2700 | The east fork of Clarke’s river, at the entrance of Cohahlarishkit | 120 | 30 | 155 | 3730 | To Clarke’s river, below the forks | 150 | 12 | 167 | 2742 | Traveller’s-rest creek, on the west side of Clarke’s river, about the forks | 25 | 5 | 172 | 2747 | The Forks of Traveller’s-rest creek, at a right hand road | | 18 | 190 | | Hot springs on the creek | | 13 | 203 | 2778 | Quamash glades, passing the head of the creek to a branch of Kooskooskee river | | 7 | 210 | | North branch of Kooskooskee river, a left-hand road leads off at five miles | | 7 | 217 | | Junction of the roads on the top of a snowy mountain, the left-hand road, passing by a fishery | | 10 | 227 | 2802 | Hungry creek from the right, passing on a dividing mountain, covered with deep snow, except on two places, which are open, with a southern exposure at 8 and 36 miles | | 54 | 281 | 2856 | To a Glade upon Hungry creek | | 6 | 287 | | Glade upon a small branch of do. | | 8 | 295 | | Glade upon Fish creek | 10 | 9 | 304 | | To Collins’s creek | 25 | 13 | 317 | | Quamash flats | | 11 | 328 | 2903 | Kooskooskee, or Flathead’s river, in a pine country | 120 | 12 | 340 | 2915 | Note. In passing from the falls of the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, you have two hundred miles of good road, one hundred and forty miles of high, steep, rugged mountains, sixty miles of which is covered from two to eight feet deep with snow in the last of June. Remarkable places descending the Columbia. | Width of the rivers and creeks. | The side on which they are situated. | Distance from one place to another. | Distance descending the Columbia. | Distance from the Mississippi. | | Yards. | Side. | Miles. | Miles. | Miles. | To the entrance of Rockdam creek | 20 | N. | 8 | 8 | 2923 | Chopunnish river | 120 | N. | 5 | 13 | 2928 | Colter’s creek | 35 | N. | 37 | 50 | 2978 | Lewis’s river, at the entrance of the Kooskooskee river | 200 | S. | 23 | 73 | 2988 | The Sweathouse village and run | | S. | 7 | 80 | | Pilot’s village | | N. | 11 | 91 | 3005 | Kemooenim creek | 20 | S. | 48 | 139 | | Drewyer’s river, below the narrows of Lewis’s river | 30 | N. | 5 | 144 | 3059 | Cave rapid | | | 28 | 172 | | Basin rapid (bad) | | | 34 | 206 | 3121 | Discharge rapid (bad) | | | 14 | 220 | 3135 | The Columbia at the mouth of Lewis’s river, from the east | | S.E. | 7 | 227 | 3142 | Wollawollah river, passed eleven large mat lodges of that nation | 40 | S.E. | 16 | 243 | 3158 | Muscleshell rapid (bad) | | | | | | passed thirty-three mat lodges of the Wollawollahs | | | 25 | 268 | 3183 | Pelican rapid, passed forty-eight lodges of the Pishquitpahs nation | | N. | 22 | 290 | 3205 | Twenty-one lodges of the Wahowpum nation, residing on three islands, at the commencement of the high country | | N. | 18 | 308 | 3223 | To eight lodges of the Wahowpums at Short rapid | | N. | 27 | 335 | 3250 | The Rocky rapid, nine lodges of the same nation | | N. | 13 | 348 | 3263 | The river La Page (bad rapid) | 40 | S. | 9 | 357 | 3272 | Twenty seven lodges of the Eneshure nation, at Fishstack rapid | | N. | 10 | 367 | 3282 | Towahnahiooks river | 180 | S. | 8 | 375 | 3290 | The Great falls of the Columbia river of 57 feet 8 inches, near which there are forty mat lodges of the Eneshure nation | | N. | 4 | 379 | 3294 | The Short narrows, 45 yards wide | | | 2 | 381 | 3296 | Skilloot village of twenty-one large wood houses, at the long narrows, from 50 to 100 yards wide | | N. | 4 | 385 | 3300 | Chilluckittequaw village of eight large wood houses | | N. | 14 | 390 | 3314 | Cataract river, a few miles below a village of seven houses, and immediately above one of eleven houses of the Chilluckittequaw nation | 60 | N. | 10 | 409 | 3324 | Sepulchre rock, opposite to a village of houses of Chilluckittequaws | | N. | 4 | 413 | 3328 | River Labiche, opposite to twenty-six houses of the Smackshop nation, houses scattered on the north side | 46 | S. | 9 | 422 | 3337 | Little Lake creek, three houses of the Smackshop nation | 28 | N. | 10 | 432 | 3347 | Cruzatte’s river | 60 | N. | 12 | 444 | 3359 | The Grand rapid, just below the village of the Yehah tribe of the Shahala nation of fourteen wood houses | | N. | 6 | 450 | 3365 | Clahelellah village of the Shahala nation, near the foot of the rapids; seven houses | | N. | 6 | 456 | 3371 | Wabetellah village of the Shahala nation, twenty-three houses, just below the entrance of the Beacon-rock creek | | N. | 6 | 162 | 3377 | Tide water. | | | | | | Phoca rock in the river, sixty-feet above water | | | 11 | 473 | 3388 | To Quicksand river | 120 | S. | 9 | 482 | 3397 | Seal river | 80 | N. | 3 | 485 | | Neechaokee village, opposite to the Diamond island | | S. | 4 | 489 | | Shahala village of twenty-five temporary houses | | S. | 12 | 501 | 3416 | Multnomah river | 500 | S. | 14 | 515 | 3430 | Multnomah village | | S. | 6 | 521 | | Quathlahpotle village | | N. | 8 | 529 | | Tahwahnahiooks river | 200 | N. | 1 | 530 | 3445 | Cathlahaws creek and village | 18 | N. | 10 | 540 | 3455 | Lower extremity of Elallah or Deer island | | S. | 6 | 546 | | Coweliskee river, about the entrance, and up this river the Skilloot nation reside | 150 | N. | 13 | 559 | 3474 | Fanny’s island | | S. | 16 | 577 | 3490 | The Sea-otter island | | | 12 | 587 | 3502 | The upper village of the Wahkiacum nation | | N. | 6 | 593 | 3508 | The Cathlamahs village of nine large wood houses, S. of Seal islands | | S. | 14 | 607 | 3522 | Point William, opposite Shallow bay | | S. | 10 | 617 | 3532 | Point Meriwether, above Meriwether’s bay | | S. | 9 | 626 | 3541 | Clatsop village, below Meriwether’s bay, and seven miles northwest of Fort Clatsop | | S. | 8 | 634 | 3549 | Point Adams, at the entrance of the Columbia into the Pacific ocean, or Great South Sea, in latitude 46° 15´ north, and longitude 124° 57´ west from Greenwich | | S. | 6 | 640 | 3555 | Note. Fort Clatsop is situated on the west side of, and three miles up the Netui river from Meriwether bay, and seven miles east from the nearest part of the seacoast;—at this fort captain M. Lewis, and captain W. Clarke, passed the winter of 1805 and 1806. The road by which we went out by the way of the Missouri to its head is 3096 miles, thence by land, by way of Lewis’s river over to Clarke’s river, and down that to the entrance of Traveller’s-rest creek, where all the roads from different routes meet, then across the rugged part of the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, 398 miles; thence down the river 640 miles, to the Pacific ocean; making a total distance of 4134 miles. On our return in 1806, we came from Traveller’s-rest creek directly to the falls of the Missouri river, which shortens the distance about 579 miles, and is a much better route, reducing the distance from the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean to 3555 miles. 2575 miles of this distance is up the Missouri to the falls of that river; thence passing through the plains, and across the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Kooskooskee river, a branch of the Columbia, 340 miles; 200 miles of which is a good road, 140 miles over a tremendous mountain, steep and broken, 60 miles of which is covered several feet deep with snow, on which we passed the last of June: from the navigable part of the Kooskooskee we descended that rapid river 75 miles to its entrance into Lewis’s river, and down that river 154 miles to the Columbia, and thence 413 miles to its entrance into the Pacific ocean. About 180 miles of this distance is tide-water. We passed several bad rapids and narrows, and one considerable fall, 268 miles above the entrance of this river, of 37 feet 8 inches.—The total distance descending the Columbian waters 640 miles, making a total of 3555 miles, on the most direct route from the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Missouri, to the Pacific ocean. ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. Names of Indian nations and their places of general residence. | Number of houses or lodges. | Probable number of souls. | 1. Shoshonee nation resides in spring and summer on the west fork of Lewis’s river, a branch of the Columbia, and in winter and fall on the Missouri | 60 | 800 | 2. Ootlashoot tribe of the Tushshepah nation reside in spring and summer in the Rocky mountains on Clarke’s river, and winter and fall on the Missouri and its waters | 33 | 400 | 3. Chopunnish nation, residing on the Kooskooskee river, below the forks, and on Colter’s creek, and who sometimes pass over to the Missouri | 33 | 2000 | 4. Pelloatpallah band of Chopunnish reside on the Kooskooskee, above the forks, and on the small streams which fall into that river, west of the Rocky mountains and Chopunnish river, and sometimes pass over to the Missouri | 33 | 1600 | 5. Kimooenim band of Chopunnish nation reside on Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, as high up that river as the forks | 33 | 800 | 6. Yeletpo band of Chopunnish reside under the southwest mountains, on a small river which falls into Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, which they call Weaucum | 33 | 250 | 7. Willewah band of Chopunnish reside on a river of the same name, which discharges itself into Lewis’s river on the southwest side, below the forks of that river | 33 | 500 | 8. Soyennom band of Chopunnish on the north side of the east fork of Lewis’s river, from its junction to the Rocky mountains, and on Lamaltar creek | 33 | 400 | 9. Chopunnish of Lewis’s river, below the entrance of the Kooskooskee, on either side of that river to its junction with the Columbia | 40 | 2300 | 10. Sokulk nation reside on the Columbia, above the entrance of Lewis’s river, as high up as the entrance of Clarke’s river | 120 | 2400 | 11. Chimnahpum reside on the northwest side of the Columbia, both above and below the entrance of Lewis’s river, and on the Tapteel river, which falls into the Columbia 15 miles above Lewis’s river | 42 | 1860 | 12. Wollawollah nation on both sides of the Columbia from the entrance of Lewis’s river, as low as the Muscleshell rapid, and in winter pass over to the Tapteel river | 46 | 1600 | 13. Pishquitpahs nation resides on the Muscleshell rapid, and on the north side of the Columbia to the commencement of the high country; this nation winter on the waters of the Tapteel river | 71 | 2600 | 14. Wahowpum nation resides on the north branch of the Columbia, in different bands from the Pishquitpahs, as low as the river Lapage; the different bands of this nation winter on the waters of Tapteel and Cataract rivers | 33 | 700 | 15. Eneshure nation resides at the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia on either side—are stationary | 41 | 1200 | 16. Eskeloot nation resides at the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia; on the north side is the great mart for all the country | 21 | 1000 | 17. Chilluckittequaw nation residing next below the narrows, and extending down on the north side of the Columbia to the river Labiche | 32 | 1400 | 18. Smockshop band of Chilluckittequaws resides on the Columbia, on each side of the entrance of the river Labiche to the neighbourhood of the great rapids of that river | 24 | 800 | 19. Shahala nation resides at the grand rapids of the Columbia, and extends down in different villages as low as the Multnomah river, consisting of the following tribes: viz. Yehuh, above the rapids, Clahclellah, below the rapid, the Wahelellah, below all the rapids, and the Neerchokioon (1 house 100 lodges) on the south side, a few miles above the Multnomah river | 62 | 2800 | 20. Wappatoo Indians. | | | Nechacokee tribe resides on the south side of the Columbia, a few miles below Quicksand river, and opposite the Diamond island | 1 | 100 | Shoto tribe reside on the north side of the Columbia, back of a pond, and nearly opposite the entrance of the Multnomah river | 8 | 460 | Multnomah tribe resides on Wappatoo island, in the mouth of the Multnomah, the remains of a large nation | 6 | 800 | Clannahqueh tribe of Multnomah resides on Wappatoo island, below the Multnomahs | 4 | 130 | Nemalquinner tribe of Multnomahs reside on the northeast side of the Multnomah river, three miles above its mouth | 4 | 200 | Cathlaconimatups, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside on the south side of the Wappatoo island on a spur of the Multnomah | 3 | 170 | Cathlanaquiahs, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside on the southwest side of Wappatoo island | 6 | 400 | Clackstar nation reside on a small river, which discharges itself on the southwest side of Wappatoo island | 28 | 1200 | Claninnatas resides on the southwest side of Wappatoo island | 5 | 200 | Cathlacumups reside on the main shore, southwest of Wappatoo island | 6 | 450 | Clannarminnamuns reside on the southwest side of the Wappatoo island | 12 | 280 | Quathlahpohtle nation reside on the southwest side of the Columbia, above the entrance of Tahwahnahiooks river, opposite the lower point of Wappatoo island | 14 | 900 | Cathlamahs reside on a creek which falls into the Columbia on the north side, at the lower part of the Columbian valley, north side | 10 | 200 | 21. Skilloot nation resides on the Columbia, on each side in different villages, from the lower part of the Columbian valley as low as Sturgeon island, on either side of the Coweliskee river | 50 | 2500 | Hullooellell reside on the Coweliskee 22. Wahkiacums reside on the north side of the Columbia, opposite the Marshy islands | 11 | 200 | 23. Cathlamahs reside on the south side of the Columbia, opposite to the Seal islands | 9 | 300 | 24. Chinnooks reside on the north side of the Columbia, at the entrance of, and on Chinnook river | 28 | 400 | 25. Clatsop nation resides on the south side of the Columbia, and a few miles along the southeast coast, on both sides of point Adams | 14 | 200 | 26. Killamucks nation resides from the Clatsops of the coast along the southeast coast for many miles | 50 | 1000 | Indian information: The following nations speak the Killamuck language: | | | 27. Lucktons reside on the seacoast to the southwest of the Killamucks | | 20 | Kahuncles reside on the seacoast southwest of the Lucktons | | 400 | Lukawis do. do. to the S.S.E. large town | | 800 | Youikcones do. do. do. large houses | | 700 | Neeketoos do. do. do. large town | | 700 | Ulseahs do. do. do. small town | | 150 | Youitts do. do. do. do. | | 150 | Sheastuckles reside on the seacoast to the southeast of the Lucktons large town | | 900 | Killawats do. do. do. do. | | 500 | 28. Cookkoo-oose nation reside on the seacoast, to the south of the Killawats | | 1500 | Shallalah nation reside on the same course to the south | | 1200 | Luckkarso nation do. do. do. | | 1200 | Hannakallal nation do. do. do. | | 600 | Indians along the N. W. coast. | | | 29. Killaxthocles tribe reside on the seacoast, from the Chinnooks to the N. N. W. | 8 | 100 | Chiltz nation reside from the Killaxthokles along the N. N. W. coast | 38 | 700 | Clamoctomichs reside from the Chiltz along the N. N. W. coast | 12 | 260 | Potoashs reside on the same coast northwestwardly of the Clamoctomichs | 10 | 200 | Pailsh tribe reside from the Potoash on the northwest coast | 10 | 200 | Quiniilts reside from the Pailsh along the northwest coast | 60 | 1000 | Quieetsos reside from the Quiniilts along the northwest coast | 18 | 250 | Chillates reside from the Quieetsos along the northwest coast | 8 | 150 | Calasthocle reside from the Chillate northwest along the same coast | 10 | 200 | Quinnechart nation reside on the seacoast and creek, north and northwest of the Calasthocles | | 2000 | 30. Clarkamus nation reside on a large river of the same name, which heads in Mount Jefferson, and discharges itself into the Multnomah, forty miles up that river on its northeast side; this nation has several villages on either side | | 1800 | 31. Cushooks nation reside on the northeast bank of the Multnomah, immediately below the falls of that river, about sixty miles above its entrance into the Columbia | | 650 | 32. Charcowah nation reside on the southwest bank of the Multnomah, immediately above the falls; they take the salmon in that river | | 200 | 33. Callahpoewah nation inhabit the country on both sides of the Multnomah, above the Charcowahs for a great extent | | 2000 | 34. Shoshonee (or Snake Indians) residing in winter and fall on the Multomah river, southwardly of the southwest mountains, and in spring and summer on the heads of the Towanahiooks, La Page, Yaumalolam, and Wollawollah rivers, and more abundantly at the falls of the Towanahiooks, for the purpose of fishing | | 3000 | 35. Shoshonees on the Multnomah and its waters; the residence of them is not well known to us, or the Indians of the Columbia | | 6000 | 36. Shobarboobeer band of Shoshonees reside on the southwest side of the Multnomah river, high up the said river | | 1600 | 37. Shoshonees residing on the south fork of Lewis’s river, and on the Nemo, Walshlemo, Shallette, Shushpellanimmo, Shecomshink, Timmoonumlarwas, and the Copcoppakark rivers, branches of the south fork of Lewis’s river | | 3000 | We saw parts of the following tribes at the Long narrows: | | | 38. Skaddals nation reside on Cataract river, twenty-five miles north of the Big narrows | | 200 | Squannaroos reside on Cataract river, below the Skaddals | | 120 | Shallattoos reside on Cataract river, above them | | 100 | Shanwappoms reside on the heads of Cataract and Tapteel rivers | | 400 | 39. Cutsahnim nation reside on both sides of the Columbia, above the Sokulks, and on the northern branches of the Tapteel river, and also on the Wahnaachee river | 60 | 1200 | Lahanna nation reside on both sides of the Columbia, above the entrance of Clarke’s river | 120 | 2000 | Coospellar nation reside on a river which falls into the Columbia, to the north of Clarke’s river | 30 | 1600 | Wheelpo nation reside on both sides of Clarke’s river, from the entrance of Lastaw to the great falls of Clarke’s river | 130 | 2500 | Hihighenimmo nation reside from the entrance of the Lastaw into Clarke’s river, on both sides of the Lastaw, as high as the forks | 45 | 1300 | Lartielo nation reside at the falls of the Lastaw river, below the great Wayton lake, on both sides of the river | 30 | 600 | Skeetsomish nation resides on a small river of the same name, which discharges itself into the Lastaw, below the falls, around the Wayton lake, and on two islands within the said lake | 12 | 2000 | Micksucksealton tribe of the Tushshepah reside on Clarke’s river, above the great falls of that river, in the Rocky mountains | 25 | 300 | Hohilpos, a tribe of the Tushshepah reside on Clarke’s river, above the Micksucksealtons, in the Rocky mountains. | 25 | 300 | Tushshepahs nation reside on a north fork of Clarke’s river in spring and summer, and the fall and winter on the Missouri. The Ootlashoots is a band of this nation. | 35 | 430 | Whole number of Indians W. of Rocky Mountains, | 80,000 | Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the Mississippi (Missouri); appearances of weather, winds, &c. commencing at the mouth of the river. Duboes in latitude 38° 55´ 19´´ 6/10 north, and longitude 89° 57´ 45´´ west, January 1, 1804. Thermometer on the north side of a tree in the woods. Explanations of the notations of the weather. f means fair weather. c means cloudy. r means rain. s means snow. h means hail. t means thunder. l means lightning. a after, as f a r means fair after rain, which has intervened since the last observation. c a s means cloudy after snow intervening. c a r s means cloudy after rain and snow. Notations of the river. r means risen in the last 24 hours, ending at sunrise. f means fallen in the last 24 hours, ending at sunrise. Notations of thermometer. a means above naught. b means below naught.
lass="fraction">10 a. | f. | N.E. | | f. | | f. | | 7½ | | 12 | 16 a. | c. | N.W. | | f.a.c. | | f. | | 7 | | 13 | 36 a. | c. | N.E. | | c. | | f. | | 6½ | | 14 | 22 a. | f. | S.W. | | f. | | f. | | 5 | | 15 | 22 a. | f. | N.W. | | | | f. | | 6½ | | 16 | 36 a. | c. | N.W. | | f.a.c. | | f. | | 5½ | | 17 | 26 a. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | f. | | f. | | 5 | | 18 | 16 a. | f.a.c. | N.N.W. | | c. | | f. | | 3 | | 19 | 34 a. | r. | S.S.E. | | | | f. | | 4 | | 20 | 34 a. | c.r. | S.E. | 37 a. | r. | S.E. | f. | | 3½ | | 21 | 31 a. | r. | S.W. | 42 a. | f.a.r. | W. | r. | 1 | 2 | | 22 | 28 a. | c. | N.W. | 34 a. | c. | N.W. | r. | 1 | 6 | | 23 | 22 a. | f. | N.W. | 64 a. | f. | W. | f. | | 1 | | 24 | 36 a. | f. | N.W. | 44 a. | f. | N.W. | r. | | 8 | | 25 | 26 a. | f. | N.W. | 38 a. | c. | N.W. | r. | | 2½ | | 26 | 16 a. | f. | N.W. | 58 a. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 6 | | 27 | 28 a. | c.&r. | W. | 62 a. | f. | S.W. | f. | | 8 | | 28 | 30 a. | f. | N.W. | 64 a. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 7 | | 29 | 32 a. | f. | N.W. | 52 a. | f. | S.E. | f. | | 7 | | 30 | 18 a. | f. | S.E. | 56 a. | f. | N.E. | r. | | 6 | May | 1 | 20 a. | f. | S.E. | 54 a. | f. | N.E. | f. | | 4½ | | 2 | 19 a. | f. | S.E. | 68 a. | f. | S.S.E. | f. | | 6 | | 3 | 24 a. | f. | S.S.E. | 72 a. | f. | S.S.W. | f. | | 4½ | | 4 | 40 a. | t.c.r. | S. | 56 a. | c.a.r. | S. | r. | | 2 | | 5 | 42 a. | t.c.r. | W. | 58 a. | c.a.r. | W. | r. | | 2½ | | 6 | 34 a. | f. | S.W. | 70 a. | f. | S.W. | f. | | 2½ | | 7 | 38 a. | f. | S.E. | 52 a. | f. | S.S.E. | f. | | 4½ | | 8 | 44 a. | <
6 a. f. | N.W. | 34 a. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 25 | 34 a. | f. | W. | 32 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 26 | 15 a. | f. | S.W. | 21 a. | f. | W. | | | | | 27 | 10 a. | f. | S.E. | 19 a. | c. | S.E. | f. | | 3 | | 28 | 12 a. | s. | S.E. | 15 a. | s. | E. | f. | | 4 | | 29 | 14 a. | c.a.s. | N.E. | 18 a. | f. | W. | f. | | 2½ | | 30 | 17 a. | f. | W. | 23 a. | f. | W. | f. | 2 | | Dec. | 1 | 1 b. | f. | E. | 6 a. | f. | S.E. | r. | 1 | | | 2 | 38 a. | f. | N.W. | 36 a. | f. | N.W. | r. | | 1 | | 3 | 26 a. | f. | N.W. | 30 a. | f. | N.W. | r. | | 1 | | 4 | 18 a. | f. | N. | 29 a. | f. | N. | r. | | 1 | | 5 | 14 a. | c. | N.E. | 27 a. | s. | N.E. | | | | | 6 | 10 a. | s. | N.W. | 11 a. | c.a.s. | N.W. | | | | | 7 | 0 a. | f. | N.W. | 1 b. | c. | N.W. | r. | 2 | ½ | | 8 | 12 b. | s. | N.W. | 5 b. | f.a.s. | N.W. | | | | | 9 | 7 a. | f. | E. | 10 b. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 10 | 10 b. | c. | N. | 11 b. | c. | N. | r. | | ½ | | 11 | 21 b. | f. | N. | 18 b. | f. | N. | f. | | ½ | | 12 | 38 b. | f. | N. | 16 b. | f. | N. | | | | | 13 | 20 b. | f. | S.E. | 4 b. | c. | S.E. | | | | | 14 | 2 b. | c. | S.E. | 2 a. | s. | S.E. | f. | | 1 | | 15 | 8 b. | c.a.s. | W. | 4 b. | c.a.s. | W. | | | | | 16 | 22 b. | f. | N.W. | 4 b. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 1 | | 17 | 45 b. | f. | N. | 28 b. | f. | N. | r. | | 3 | | 18 | 32 b. | f. | W. | 16 b. | f. | S.W. | r. | | 1 | | 19 | 2 b. | c. | S.W. | 16 a. | f. | S. | r. | | 1 | | 20 | 24 a. | f. | N.W. | 22 a. | c. | 54 a. | f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | | 2¼ | | 14 | 32 a. | f. | S.W. | 52 a. | c. | S.W. | f. | | 1¾ | | 15 | 48 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | 54 a. | c. | N.W. | f. | | ¾ | | 16 | 48 a. | c. | S.W. | 67 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 17 | 60 a. | f. | N.E. | 68 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 18 | 58 a. | f. | W. | 46 a. | c.a.r. | N.W. | f. | | 1 | | 19 | 38 a. | f. | E. | 68 a. | f.a.c. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | 52 a. | f. | N.E. | 76 a. | f. | E. | f. | | 1 | | 21 | 50 a. | f. | S.W. | 76 a. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 22 | 46 a. | c. | N.W. | 48 a. | c. | N.W. | f. | | ½ | | 23 | 32 a. | f. | S.W. | 54 a. | f. | S.W. | f. | | ½ | | 24 | 32 a. | f. | N.W. | 68 a. | f. | S.E. | r. | | 3½ | | 25 | 46 a. | f. | S.W. | 82 a. | f. | S.W. | r. | | 2 | | 26 | 58 a. | f. | S.W. | 80 a. | f. | S.W. | r. | | ½ | | 27 | 62 a. | f. | S.W. | 82 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 28 | 62 a. | c. | S.W. | 72 a. | c.&r. | S.W. | r. | | ½ | | 29 | 62 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | 67 a. | r. | S.W. | r. | | 1 | | 30 | 56 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | 50 a. | r. | S.W. | r. | | 5 | | 31 | 48 a. | c.a.r. | W. | 53 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | r. | | 1½ | June | 1 | 50 a. | c. | S.W. | 62 a. | c. | S.E. | r. | | 1½ | | 2 | 56 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | 68 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 3 | 46 a. | f. | S.W. | 60 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 4 | 48 a. | f.a.c. | N.E. | 61 a. | f. | S.W. | f. | | ¾ | | 5 | 40 a. | r. | S.W. | 42 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | f. | | ¾ | | 6 | 35 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | 42 a. | r.a.r. | N.E. | f. | | 1½ | | 7 | 40 a. | c.a.r. | S.W. | 43 a. | r.a.r. | S.W. | f. | | 1½ | | 8 | 41 a. | r.a.r. | S.W. | 48 a. | f.a. | S.W. | f. | 30 a. | f.a.r. | S.W. | 71 a. | f.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | 32 a. | f. | S.W. | 74 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 21 | 19 a. | f. | S.E. | 78 a. | f. | E. | | | | | 22 | 22 a. | f. | E. | 70 a. | f. | E. | | | | | 23 | 35 a. | f. | E. | 72 a. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 24 | 40 a. | f. | S.E. | 76 a. | f.a.r. | S.E. | | | | | 25 | 32 a. | f.a.r. | S.E. | 65 a. | c. | S.E. | | | | | 26 | 31 a. | f. | S.E. | 45 a. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 27 | 32 a. | f. | S.E. | 56 a. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 28 | 35 a. | f. | S.W. | 66 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 29 | 32 a. | f. | S.W. | 68 a. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 30 | 34 a. | c. | N.E. | 59 a. | c. | N.E. | | | | | 31 | 38 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | 58 a. | c.a.r.h. | N.E. | | | | Sep. | 1 | 38 a. | c. | N.W. | 67 a. | c. | N.W. | | | | | 2 | 36 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | 60 a. | c.a.r.h. | N.E. | | | | | 3 | 34 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | 52 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 4 | 19 a. | r.a.s. | N.E. | 34 a. | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 5 | 17 a. | c.a.s. | N.E. | 29 a. | c.a.r.s. | N.E. | | | | | 6 | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | r. | N.E. | | | | | 7 | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 8 | | c. | N.E. | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 9 | | c.a.r. | N.E. | | f.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 10 | | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. | | | | | 11 | | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.W. | | | | | 12 | | f. | N.W. | | f. | N.E. | | | | | 13 | | c. | N.E. | | r. | N.E. | | | | | 14 | | c.a.r. | S.W. | | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 15 | | c.a.s. | S.W. | | s. | S.W. | | | | | 16 | | c.a.s. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | | | 17 | | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | | | 18 | | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | | | 19 | | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | | f. | S.W. | | f. | S.W. | | | | | 21 | | f. | S.E. | | f. | S
October. | November. | December. | Day of month. | Wind. | Weather. | Day of month. | Wind. | Weather. | Day of month. | Wind. | Weather. | 1 | E. | f. | 1 | N.E. | f. | 1 | E. | c.a.r. | 2 | N. | f. | 2 | S.W. | f. | 2 | S.W. | c.a.r. | 3 | E. | f. | 3 | N.E. | f.a.fog. | 3 | E. | f.a.r. | 4 | E. | f. | 4 | W. | c.a.r. | 4 | S.E. | r. | 5 | E. | f. | 5 | S.W. | r.c.r. | 5 | S.W. | r. | 6 | E. | f. | 6 | S.W. | r.a.r. | 6 | S.W. | r. | 7 | E. | f. | 7 | S.W. | r.a.r.fog. | 7 | N.E. | f.a.r. | 8 | E. | f. | 8 | S.W. | f.a.r. | 8 | N.E. | c. | 9 | S.W. | c. | 9 | S. | r. | 9 | N.E. | c.r. | 10 | N.W. | f. | 10 | N.W. | r.a.r. | 10 | N.E. | r. | 11 | E.&S.W. | c. | 11 | S.W. | r. | 11 | S.W. | r. | 12 | E.&S.W. | f. | 12 | S.W. | h.r.t.&l. | 12 | S.W. | r. | 13 | S.W. | f.a.r. | 13 | S.W. | r. | 13 | S.W. | r. | 14 | S.W. | f. | 14 | | r. | 14 | S.W. | r. | 15 | S.W. | f. | 15 | S.E. | f.a.r. | 15 | S.W. | c.a.r. | 16 | S.W. | f. | 16 | W.S.W. | f. | 16 | S.W. | r. | 17 | S.E. | f. | 17 | E. | c.a.f. | 17 | S.W. | f.a.r.&h. | 18 | S.E. | f. | 18 | S.E. | f.a.c. | 18 | S.E. | c.a.r.s.h. | 19 | S.E. | f. | 19 | S.E. | c.a.r. | 19 | S.W. | h.r.&c. | 20 | S.W. | f. | 20 | S.E. | f.a.r. | 20 | S.W. | f.a.r.&h. | 21 | S.W. | f. | 21 | S.E. | c.a.r. | 21 | S.W. | r. | 22 | S.W. | f. | 22 | S.S.E. | r. | 22 | S.W. | r. | 23 | S.W. | f. | 23 | S.W. | c.a.r. | 23 | S.W. | r.h.&t. | 24 | S.W. | f. | 24 | W. | f.a.r. | 24 | S.W. | r. | 25 | W. | f. | 25 | E.S.E. | c.a.r. | 25 | S.W. | c.r. | 26 | W. | f. | 26 | E.N.E. | r. | 26 | S.W. | r.a.t.&l. | 27 | W. | f. | 27 | S.W. | r. | 27 | S.W. | r. | 28 | N.W. | r.a.f. | 28 | S.W.W. | r. | 28 | S.E. | r. | 29 | W. | f.a.r. | 29 | S.W. | r. | 29 | S.E. | c.a.r. | 30 | S.E. | r.a.r. | 30 | S.W. | f.a.r.&h. | 30 | S.E. | f.a.r. | 31 | S.W. | f.a.r. | | | | 31 | S.W. | r. |
Day of the month. | Weather. | Wind at sunrise. | Weather. | Wind at four o’clock. | Columbia River. | r. and f. | Feet. | Inches. | 1806 | | | | | | | | Jan. | 1 | c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.c. | S.W. | | | | | 2 | c.a.r. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | | | 3 | c.a.r.h.t.&l. | S.W. | c.a.r.h.&f. | S.W. | | | | | 4 | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.E. | | | | | 5 | r. | S.E. | r. | S.E. | | | | | 6 | c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | E. | | | | | 7 | f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | | | 8 | f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | | | 9 | f. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | | | 10 | f.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | | | 11 | c. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 12 | f.a.c. | N.W. | c. | N.W. | | | | | 13 | r. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | | | 14 | f.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f. | S. | | | | | 15 | r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | r.a.r. | S. | | | | | 16 | r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 17 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | | | 18 | r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 19 | c.a.r. | S. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 21 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 22 | r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 23 | c.a.r.t.&l. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | | | 24 | c.a.r.&s. | S.E. | c.a.r.h.&s. | E. | | | | | 25 | c.a.r.h.s. | N.E. | c.a.r.h.&s. | N.E. | | | | | 26 | c.a.h.&s. | N.E. | c.a.s. | N.E. | | | | | 27 | f.a.s. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 28 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 29 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 30 | s.a.s. | N. | s.a.s. | W. | | | | | 31 | f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | Feb. | 1 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 2 | f. | N.E. | c.a.s. | S.W. | | | | | 3 | c.a.s.&.r. | N.W. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | | | 4 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 5 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 6 | f. | N.E. | c. | S.W. | | | | | 7 | c. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | | | 8 | c.a.s.r.h. | S.W. | c.a.f.r.h.&s. | S.W. | | | | | 9 | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 10 | c.a.r.h.s. | N. | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | | | | | 11 | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 12 | r.a.r.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 13 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 14 | c.a.f.&s. | S.W. | r.a.r.f.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 15 | c.a.r.&f. | S. | c.a.r.&f. | S.W. | | | | | 16 | r.a.s.&r. | S.W. | r.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 17 | c.a.r.h.&s. | S.W. | r.a.f.h.s.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 18 | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 19 | r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 21 | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 22 | f.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | | | 23 | f. | S.W. | c.a.f. | S.W. | | | | | 24 | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S. | | | | | 25 | r.a.r. | S. | r.a.r. | S. | | | | | 26 | f.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.f.&r. | S. | | | | | 27 | c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 28 | r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.c.&f. | S.W. | | | | March | 1 | f.a.r.&c. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 2 | r.a.c.&r. | S. | r.a.c.&r. | S. | | | | | 3 | c.a.r. | S. | c.a.r. | S. | | | | | 4 | r.a.c.&r. | S. | r.a.r. | S. | | | | | 5 | c.a.r. | N.E. | c.a.r. | S. | | | | | 6 | f.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | | | 7 | r.a.r.&h. | S.E. | r.a.f.r.h.c.&f. | S.E. | | | | | 8 | h.&r.a.h.r.&s. | S. | r.a.r.&h. | S.E. | | | | | 9 | s.&h.a.r.s.&h. | S.W. | r.a.h.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 10 | s.&r.a.h.r.&s. | S.W. | f.a.r.h.&s. | S.W. | | | | | 11 | f.a.r.h.&s. | S.E. | f.a.r.&h. | S.E. | | | | | 12 | f.a.c. | N.E. | c.a.f. | N.E. | | | | | 13 | f.a.r. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 14 | c.a.f. | N.E. | c. | N.E. | | | | | 15 | c.a.c. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | | | | | 16 | r.a.f.&c. | S.W. | c.a.f.c.r. | S.W. | | | | | 17 | c.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.f.h.s.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 18 | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | r.a.f.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 19 | r.&h.a.c.r.&h. | S.W. | r.a.f.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 20 | r.a.r.&h. | S.W. | r. | S.W. | | | | | 21 | r.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 22 | r.a.r. | S.W. | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. N.E. | | | | | 23 | r.a.r. | S.W. | f.a.c.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 24 | r.a.c.&r. | S.W. | f.a.c. | N.W. S.W. | | | | | 25 | c.a.f. | S.E. | r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | | | | | 26 | c.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f.&c. | S.E. | | | | | 27 | r.a.c. | S.E. | r.a.c.&r. | S.E. | | | | | 28 | c.a.r. | N. | f.a.f.&r. | S.W. | | | | | 29 | c.a.r.&f. | S. | c.a.r. | S.W. | | | | | 30 | c. | E. | f.a.c. | S.W. | | | | | 31 | f. | S.E. | | | | | | Ap. | 1 | c.a.f. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | r. | | 1 | | 2 | c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | f. | | ? | | 3 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | W. | f. | | 3½ | | 4 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | f. | | 4½ | | 5 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.f.&c. | S.W. | f. | | 2½ | | 6 | f.a.c. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f. | | 1 | | 7 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | r. | | ½ | | 8 | f. | E. | f. | E. | r. | | 1½ | | 9 | f. | W. | f. | W. | | | | | 10 | c.a.r. | W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | r. | | 1 | | 11 | r.a.r. | W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | r. | | 2 | | 12 | c.a.r. | W. | r.a.c.&r. | W. | r. | | 2 | | 13 | r.a.c.&r. | W. | c.a.r.&f. | W. | r. | | 2½ | | 14 | f. | W. | f. | W. | r. | | 1 | | 15 | f. | W. | f. | W. | | | | | 16 | f.a.c. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f. | | 2 | | 17 | f. | N.E. | c.a.f. | S.W. | f. | | 2 | | 18 | f.a.r. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | f. | | 1 | | 19 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | f. | | 3 | | 20 | f.a.r. | S.W. | c.a.r. | S.W. | f. | | 2½ | | 21 | f. | N.E. | f. | E. | f. | | 2 | | 22 | f. | N.W. | f. | W. | f. | | 1 | | 23 | f.a.c. | E. | f. | N.E. | f. | | 4 | | 24 | f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 2 | | 25 | f. | N.E. | f. | N.E. | f. | | 2 | | 26 | f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | N.E. | f. | | 2½ | | 27 | f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 1½ | | 28 | f.a.t. | S.W. | f. | N.E. | f. | | 2 | | 29 | f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 1 | | 30 | c.a.r. | N.W. | f.a.c. | N.W. | f. | | 2 | May | 1 | c.a.r. | S.W. | c. | S.W. | | | | | 2 | f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 3 | c.a.h.r.s. | S.W. | c.a.r.h.s. | S.W. | | | | | 4 | f.a.h. | S.W. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 5 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 6 | r.a.c.r. | N.E. | f.a.r. | N.E. | | | | | 7 | f.a.c. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 8 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 9 | f. | S.W. | f.a.c. | W. | | | | | 10 | c.a.r.&s. | S.W. | f.a.s. | S.W. | | | | | 11 | f.a.r. | S.W. | f.a.c. | S.W. | | | | | 12 | f. | E. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 13 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 14 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 15 | f. | N. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | | | 16 | c. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r. | | 6 | | 17 | r.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r. | | 10¾ | | 18 | c.a.r. | S.E. | c. | S.E. | r. | | 2 | | 19 | r.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | | 4 | | 20 | r.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.r. | S.E. | r. | | 2 | | 21 | c.a.r. | S.E. | f.a.c. | S.E. | f. | | 1 | | 22 | f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f. | | 2 | | 23 | f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. S.E. | f. | | 1½ | | 24 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | f. | | 1 | | 25 | c.a.r.&t. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | r. | | 9½ | | 26 | f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | r. | | 6 | | 27
| c. | S.E. | r.a.f.r.t.l. | S.E. | r. | | 6½ | | 28 | c.a.r.t.&l. | S.E. | c.a.f.r.t.l. | S.E. | r. | | 11 | | 29 | c.a.r.&t. | S.E. | c.a.r. | N.W. | r. | 1 | 5 | | 30 | c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | f. | | 6 | | 31 | c.a.f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | r. | 1 | 1 | June | 1 | f.a.r.t.&l. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | | | 2 | c.a.c. | N.W. | f.a.c. | S.E. | | | | | 3 | c.a.f.&c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | | | 4 | c.a.r. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | | | 5 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 6 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 7 | c.a.r. | N.W. | c.a.f.r.h. | N.W. | | | | | 8 | c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | N.W. | | | | | 9 | c. | S.E. | f.a.c. | N.W. | | | | | 10 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 11 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 12 | f.a.r.l.&t. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 13 | c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | N.W. | | | | | 14 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 15 | c. | N.W. | r.a.f.&r. | N.W. | | | | | 16 | f.a.c. | S.E. | c.a.f. | S.E. | | | | | 17 | c.a.r. | E. | c.a.f.&r. | S.E. | | | | | 18 | c.a.r. | E. | c.a.r.&h. | S.W. | | | | | 19 | f.a.c. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 20 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 21 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 22 | f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 23 | f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 24 | f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 25 | c.a.r. | S.E. | c.a.r. | N.W. | | | | | 26 | c.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 27 | f.a.r. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 28 | f. | S.E. | f. | S.E. | | | | | 29 | f. | S.E. | f.a.r.h.t. | S.E. | | | | | 30 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | July | 1 | c.a.f. | N.W. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 2 | f. | S.E. | f. | N.W. | | | | | 3 | f. | S.E. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 4 | f. | S.W. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 5 | f. | N.E. | f. | S.W. | | | | | 6 | f. | S.W. | c.a.r.t.&l. | S.W. | | | | | 7 | c.a.r. | W. | f.a.r. | S.W. by W. | | | | | 8 | f.a.r. | W. | f. | S.W. | | | 21 | Most astonishing was the difference between the height of the mercury at sunrise and at 4 P.M. to-day. There was the difference of fifty-nine degrees, and this in the space of eight hours, yet we experience this wonderful transition without feeling it near so sensibly as I should have expected. | Nov. | 3 | A thick fog continued until 12 o’clock, at which time it cleared off, and was fair the remainder of the day. | | 5 | Commenced raining at 2 P.M. and continued at intervals all day; saw fourteen striped snakes to-day. | | 7 | A thick fog this morning which continued until 11 A. M., at which time it cleared off, and continued fair about two hours, and began to rain; several showers during the evening. | | 12 | Violent wind from, the southwest, accompanied with hail thunder and lightning, the thunder excessively loud, which continued from 3 till 6 A. M. when it cleared off for a short time; afterwards a heavy rain succeeded, which lasted until twelve o’clock, when it cleared off for an hour, and again become cloudy; the rain has been pretty generally falling since the 7th instant. | | 15 | The after part of this day is fair and calm, for the first time since the 12th instant, and no rain. | | 20 | Rained moderately from 6 o’clock A. M. until 1 P. M. on the 21st, after which it became cloudy, without rain. | | 22 | The wind violent from the S. S. E. throwing the water of the river over our camp, and rain continued all day. | | 26 | Rained all day; some hard showers; wind not so hard as it has been for a few days past; some rain on the morning of the 23d, and night of the 24th. instant. | | 27 | Rained moderately all day; a hard wind from the southwest, which compelled us to lie by on the isthmus of point William on the south side. | | 28 | The wind which was from the south west shifted in the after part of the day to the northwest, and blew a storm which was tremendous; rained all the last night and to-day without intermission. | | 29 | Rained all last night hard, and to-day moderately. | | 30 | Rained and hailed at intervals throughout the last night, some thunder and lightning. | Decr. | 3 | Fair from 12 to 3 P. M. rained all the last night and this morning; rained the night of the 1st and the morning of the 2nd, and cloudy the remainder of the day; rained at intervals the night of the 2nd instant, with constant, hard, and sometimes violent winds. | | 5 | Rained yesterday, last night, and moderately to-day, all day the wind violent. | | 6 | Rained all last night and to-day until 6 o’clock, at which time it cleared away and became fair; the winds also ceased to blow violent. | | 7 | Rained from ten to twelve last night; fair day; a hard wind from the northwest, and a shower of rain at 2 P. M. | | 10 | Rained all day, and the air cool; I returned from the ocean; a violent wind last night from the southwest; rained the greater part of the night of the 8th, and all day the 9th instant. | | 15 | Rained at short intervals from the 10th instant, until 8 A. M. to-day. | | 16 | Rained all the last night; cold wind violent from the southwest, accompanied with rain. | | 17 | Rained all the last night and this morning until 9 o’clock, when we had a shower of hail, which lasted about an hour, and then cleared off. | | 18 | Rained, snowed, and hailed at intervals all the last night; several showers of hail and snow until meridian. | | 19 | Rained last night, and several showers of hail and rain this evening; the air cool. | | 20 | Some rain and hail last night, rain continued until 10 A. M. | | 23 | Rained all last night, and moderately all day, with several showers of hail, accompanied with hard claps of thunder &c.; rained 21st and 22d all day and night. | | 25 | Rained at intervals last night and to-day. | | 26 | Rained and blew hard all last night and to-day; some hard claps of thunder and sharp lightning. | | 29 | Rained moderately without much intermission from the 26th until 7 A.M. this morning, hard wind from southeast. | | 30 | Hard wind and some rain last night; to-day tolerably fair. | | 31 | Rained last night and all this day. | 1806. | | | January | 1 | The changes of the weather are exceedingly sudden, sometimes though seldom the sun is visible for a few moments, the next it hails and rains, then ceases and remains cloudy; the wind blows and it again rains; the wind blows by squalls most generally, and is almost invariably from southwest; these vicissitudes of the weather happen two, three or more times in half a day; snake seen 25th December. | | 3 | The thunder and lightning of the last evening was violent, a singular occurrence for the time of year; the loss of my thermometer I most sincerely regret. I am confident that the climate here, is much warmer than in the same parallel of latitude on the Atlantic ocean, though how many degrees it is now out of my power to determine. Since our arrival in this neighbourhood on the 7th of November, we have experienced one slight white frost only, which happened on the morning of the 16th of that month; we have yet seen no ice, and the weather is so warm, that we are obliged to cure our meat with smoke and fire to save it; we lost two parcels by depending on the air to preserve it, though it was cut in very thin slices, and sufficiently exposed. | | 10 | Various flies and insects now alive and in motion. | | 12 | The wind from any quarter off the land or along the northwest coast, causes the air to become much cooler; every species of water fowl common to this country at any season of the year, still continue with us. | | 14 | Weather perfectly temperate, I never experienced a winter so warm as the present has been. | | 23 | When the sun is said to shine, or the weather fair, it is to be understood that it barely casts a shadow, and that the atmosphere is hazy, of a milky white colour. | | 25 | It is now perceptibly colder than it has been this winter. | | 26 | The snow this evening is four and three-quarter inches deep: the isicles continue suspended from the eaves of the houses during the day; it now appears something like winter, for the first time this season. | | 27 | The sun shone more bright this morning than it has done since our arrival at this place; the snow since 4 P. M. yesterday, has increased to the depth of six inches, and this morning is perceptibly the coldest that we have had. I suspect the mercury would s
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