 
Inspruck! a thousand recollections flash across us, as we pronounce the word! We were there at a memorable period; when the body of the hero of the Tyrol--the brave, the simple-minded Anderl Hofer--was removed from Mantua, where he so nobly met a patriot's death, to the capital of the country, which he had so gallantly defended. The event was one, that could not fail to be impressive; and to us it was doubly so, for that very period formed an epoch in our lives. We had lost! we had suffered! we had mourned! Our mind's strength was shook. Ordinary remedies were worse than futile. We threw ourselves into the heart of the Tyrol, and became resigned if not happy. Romantic country! did not duty whisper otherwise, how would we fly to thy rugged mountains, and find in the kindly virtues of thine inhabitants, wherewithal to banish misanthropy, and it may be purchase oblivion. Noble land! where the chief in his hall--the peasant in his hut--alike open their arms with sheltering hospitality, to welcome the stranger--where kindness springs from the heart, and dreams not of sordid gain--where courtesy attends superior rank, without question, but without debasement--where the men are valiant, the women virtuous--where it needed but a few home-spun heroes--an innkeeper and a friar--to rouse up to arms an entire population, and in a brief space to drive back the Gallic foeman! Oh! how do we revert with choking sense of gratitude, to the years we have spent in thy bosom! Oh! would that we were again treading the mountain's summit--the rifle our comrade--and a rude countryman, our guide and our companion. In vain! in vain! the net of circumstance is over us! We may struggle! but cannot escape from its close meshes. We have said that we were at Inspruck at this period. It was our purpose, on the following morning, to take our departure. With renewed health, and nerves rebraced, we hoped to combat successfully, a world that had already stung us. There was a group near the golden-roofed palace, that attracted our attention. It consisted of a father and his five sons. They were dressed in the costume of the country; wearing a tapering hat, with black ribbons and feather--a short green jerkin--a red vest surmounted by broad green braces--and short boots tightly laced to the ancle. They formed a picture of free mountaineers. We left our lodging, and passed them irresolutely twice or thrice. The old man took off his hat to the stranger. "Sir! I am of Sand, in Passeyer. "Anderl Hofer was my schoolfellow; and these are my boys, whom I have brought to see all that remains of him. Oh! Sir! they did not conquer him, although the murderers shot him on the bastion; but, as he wrote to Pulher--his friend and mine--it was indeed 'in the name, and by the help of the Lord, that he undertook the voyage,'" We paced through the city sorrowfully. It was night, as we passed by the church of the Holy Cross. Solemn music there arrested our footsteps; and we remembered, that high mass would that night be performed, for the soul of the deceased patriot. We entered, and drew near the mausoleum of Maximilian the First:--leaning against a colossal statue in bronze, and fixing our eyes on a bas relief on the tomb: one of twenty-four tablets, wrought from Carrara's whitest marble, by the unrivalled hand of Colin of Malines! One blaze of glory enveloped the grand altar:--vapours of incense floated above:--and the music! oh it went to the soul! Down! down knelt the assembled throng! Our mind had been previously attuned to melancholy; it now reeled under its oppression. We looked around with tearful eye. Old Theodoric of the Goths seemed to frown from his pedestal. We turned to the statue against which we had leant. It was that of a youthful and sinewy warrior. We read its inscription. Artur, Konig Von England "Ah! hast thou too thy representative, my country?" We looked around once more. The congregation were prostrate before the mysterious Host; and we alone stood up, gazing with profound awe and reverence on the mystic rite. The rough caps of the women almost hid their fair brows. In the upturned features of the men, what a manly, yet what a devout expression reigned! Melodiously did the strains proceed from the brazen-balustraded orchestra; while sweet young girls smiled in the chapel of silver, as they turned to Heaven their deeply-fringed eyes, and invoked pardon for their sins. Alas! alas! that such as these should err, even in thought! that our feelings should so often mislead us,--that our very refinement, should bring temptation in its train,--and our fervent enthusiasm, but too frequently terminate in vice and crime! Our whole soul was unmanned! and well do we remember the morbid prayer, that we that night offered to the throne of mercy. "Pity us! pity us! Creator of all! "With thousands around, who love--who reverence--whose hearts, in unison with ours, tremble at death, yet sigh for eternity;--who gaze with eye aspiring, although dazzled--as, the curtain of futurity uplifted, fancy revels in the glorious visions of beatitude:--even here, oh God! hear our prayer and pity us! "We are moulded, though faintly, in an angel's form. Endow us with an angel's principles. For ever hush the impure swellings of passion! lull the stormy tide of contending emotions! let not circumstances overwhelm! "Receive our past griefs: the griefs of manhood, engrafted on youth; accept these tears, falling fast and bitterly! take them as past atonement,--as mute witnesses that we feel:--that reason slumbers not, although passion may mislead:--that gilded temptation may overcome, and gorgeous pleasure intoxicate:--but that sincere repentance, and bitter remorse, are visitants too. "Oh guide and pity us!" A cheerless dawn was breaking, and a thick damp mist was lazily hanging on the water's surface, as our travellers waved the hand to Venice. "Fare thee well!" said George, as he rose in the gondola to catch a last glimpse of the Piazzetta, "sea girt city! decayed memorial of patrician splendour, and plebeian debasement! of national glory, blended with individual degradation!--fallen art thou, but fair! It was not with freshness of heart, I reached thee:--I dwelt not in thee, with that jocund spirit, whose every working or gives the lip a smile, or moistens the eye of feeling with a tear. "Sad were my emotions! but sadder still, as I recede from thy shores, bound on a distant pilgrimage. AcmÉ! dear AcmÉ! would I were with thee!" Passing through Treviso, they stopped at Castel Franco, which presents one of the best specimens of an Italian town, and Italian peasantry, that a stranger can meet with. At Bassano, they failed not to visit the Municipal Hall, where are the principal pictures of Giacomo da Ponte, called after his native town. His style is peculiar. His pictures are dark to an excess, with here and there a vivid light, introduced with wonderful effect. From this town, the ascent of the mountains towards Ospedale is commenced; and the route is one full of interest. On the right, lay a low range of country, adorned with vineyards; beyond which, the mountains rose in a precipitous ridge, and closed the scene magnificently. The Brenta was then reached, and continued to flow parallel with the road, as far as eye could extend. Farther advanced, the mountains presented a landscape more varied:--here chequered with hamlets, whose church hells re-echoed in mellow harmony: there--the only break to their majesty, being the rush of the river, as it formed rolling cascades in its rapid route; or beat in sparkling foam, against the large jagged rocks, which opposed its progress. At one while, came shooting down the stream, some large raft of timber, manned by adventurous navigators, who, with graceful dexterity, guided their rough bark, clear of the steep banks, and frequent fragments of rock;--at another--as if to mark a road little frequented, a sharp turn would bring them on some sandalled damsel, sitting by the road side, adjusting her ringlets. Detected in her toilet, there was a mixture of frankness and modesty, in the way in which she would turn away a blushing face, yet neglect not, with native courtesy, to incline the head, and wave the sun-burnt hand. From Ospedale, nearing the bold castle of Pergini, which effectually commands the pass; the travellers descended through regions of beauty, to the ancient Tridentum of Council celebrity. The metal roof of its Duomo was glittering in the sunshine; and the Adige was swiftly sweeping by its fortified walls. Leaving Trent, they reached San Michele, nominally the last Italian town on the frontier; but the German language had already prepared them for a change of country. The road continued to wind by the Adige, and passing through Lavis, and Bronzoli, the brothers halted for the night at Botzen, a clean German town, watered by the Eisach. The following day's journey, was one that few can take, and deem their time misspent. Mossy cliffs--flowing cascades--"chiefless castles breaking stern farewells"--all these were met, and met again, as through Brixen, they reached the village of MÜlks. They had intended to have continued their route; but on drawing up at the post-house, were so struck with the gaiety of the scene, that they determined to remain for the night. Immediately in rear of the small garden of the inn, and with a gentle slope upwards, a wide piece of meadow land extended. On its brow, was pitched a tent, or rather, a many-coloured awning; and, beside it, a pole adorned with flags. This was the station for expert riflemen, who aimed in succession at a fluttering bird, held by a silken cord. The sloping bank of the hill was covered with spectators. Age looked on with sadness, and mourned for departed manhood--youth with envy, and sighed for its arrival. After seeing their bedrooms, George leant on Henry's arm, and, crossing the garden, they took a by-path, which led towards the tent. The strangers were received with respect and cordiality. Seats were brought, and placed near the scene of contest. The trial of skill over, the victor took advantage, of his right, and selected his partner from the fairest of the peasant girls. Shrill pipes struck up a waltz--a little blind boy accompanied these on a mandolin--and in a brief space, the hill's flat summit was swarming with laughing dancers. Nor was youth alone enlisted in Terpsichore's service. The mother joined in the same dance with the daughter; and not unfrequently tripped with foot as light. Twilight came on, and the patriarchs of the village, and with them our travellers, adjourned to the inn. The matrons led away their reluctant charges, and the youth of the village alone protracted the revels. The brothers seated themselves at a separate table, and watched the village supper party, with some interest. Bowls of thick soup, with fish swimming in butter, and fruit floating in cream, were successively placed in the middle of the table. Each old man produced his family spoon, and helped himself with primitive simplicity:--then lighted his pipe, and told his long tale, till he had exhausted himself and his hearers. Nor must we forget the comely waiter. A bunch of keys hanging on one side,--a large leathern purse on the other--with a long boddice, and something like a hoop--she really resembled, save that her costume was more homely, one of the portraits of Vandyke. The brothers left MÜlks by sunrise, and were not long, ere they reached the summit of the Brenner, the loftiest point of the Tyrol. From the beautiful town of Gries, embosomed in the deep valley, until they trod the steep Steinach, the mountain scenery at each step become more interesting. The road was cut on the face of a mountain. On one side, frowned the mountain's dark slope; on the other, lay a deep precipice, down which the eye fearfully gazed, and saw naught but the dark fir trees far far beneath. Dividing that dense wood, a small stream, entangled in the dark ravine, glided on in graceful windings, and looked more silvery from its contrast with the sombre forest. At the Steinach Pietro pulled up, to show the travellers the capital of the Tyrol, and to point in the distance to Hall, famous for its salt works. Casting a hasty glance, on the romantic vale beneath them:--the fairest and most extensive in the northern recesses of the Alps, Sir Henry desired his driver to continue his journey. They rapidly descended, and passing by the column, commemorative of the repulse of the French and Bavarian armies, soon found themselves the inmates of an hotel in Inspruck. |
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