INTRODUCTION.

LETTER I.

Arrival at New York.

LETTER II.

Going on board Steamer. — Arctic. — Weather. — Passengers. — Loss of Life and Burial at Sea. — Icebergs. — Sabbath at Sea. — Land. — Excellence of Collins Line. — Adelphi Hotel.

LETTER III.

Liverpool; Its Public Buildings, Docks, &c.

LETTER IV.

Birmingham. — Arrival in London. — Strand. — Temple Bar. — Fleet Street. — London Exchange. — London Coffee House. — Omnibuses.

LETTER V.

United States Minister in London. — His kind Attentions. — Crystal Palace. — London of other Days. — Monument. — The Bridges.

LETTER VI.

Villages. — Camberwel. — Accidents and Murders in England as common as in America. — Greenwich Fair. — Gypsies.

LETTER VII.

Great Western Railroad. — Swindon. — Bristol. — Scenes of early Life. — Ancient City. — Clifton and Hot Wells. — Redcliffe Church. — Chatterton.

LETTER VIII.

Bristol Cathedral. — Monuments and Inscriptions. — Butler. — Mason. — Southey. — Cloisters. — Mayor's Chapel. — Dundry. — Vine Prospect. — School attended in Boyhood.

LETTER IX.

Clifton. — Avon. — Hot Wells. — Vincent's Rocks. — Robert Hall. — Sublime Scenery. — Leigh Court Picture Gallery.

LETTER X

Bath. — Royal Crescent. — Queen Square. — Cathedral. — Hot Baths. — Bradford. — Trowbridge. — Devizes. — Cricket.

LETTER XI.

Tower of London; its History. — Horse Armory. — Antiquities and Curiosities. — Executions. — Regalia, &c.

LETTER XII.

Thames Tunnel. — New Houses of Parliament. — House of Lords described. — Fresco Paintings. — St. Stephen's Hall. — House of Commons. — Westminster Hall; its Associations, festive and criminal.

LETTER XIII.

British Museum; its fine Galleries, Pictures, Library, Autographs, and MSS. — The Place to study. — Lord Campbell. — Servant who resorted to it.

LETTER XIV.

Woolwich. — Naval Arsenal and Dock Yard. — Ships of War. — Yard. — Twenty Thousand Cannon. — Greenwich. — Blackheath. — Lee Grove. — Golden Cross and its Host. — Mr. Lawrence's SoirÉe. — Duke of Wellington.

LETTER XV.

Exhibition. — Season Tickets. — Wet Weather. — One May fine. — City Streets. — Throng around Palace. — Arrival of the Queen. — Opening Scenes. — Procession, &c.

LETTER XVI.

Fine Equipages. — Appearance of the Palace. — Walk through the Exhibition. — American Contributions. — Greek Slave, &c. — MediÆval Court. — Kohinoor Glass Window. — Austrian Furniture. — Amazon of Kiss. — Crusaders. — Galleries. — Transept. — Glass Fountain. — Sculpture. — Veiled Vesta. — Machinery. — Models. — Model of Liverpool. — Plate Glass. — Taunton Cabinet — Steam Power, &c.

LETTER XVII.

Royal Polytechnic Institution. — Lectures. — Egyptian Hall. — Panorama of Overland Route to California. — Exeter Hall Sermons. — Wyld's great Globe. — ZoÖlogical Gardens. — Christ's Church Hospital; its Boys.

LETTER XVIII.

Windsor Castle; its History. — Interior of the Palace. — Pictures. — Waterloo Chamber. — St. George's Chanel. — Royal Tombs. — Edward IV. — Henry VIII. — Charles I., Discovery of his Body in 1813, Account of the Appearance, &c. — Terraces of the Castle. — Eton College. — Datchett. — Great Park. — Long Walk. — Celebrated Trees. — Virginia Water. — Cumberland Lodge. — Frogmore.

LETTER XIX.

Sir John Soane's Museum, House, Antiquities, Pictures. — Hogarth's "Rake's Progress," and the "Election." — Wonderful Economy of Room, &c. — Greenwich; Hospital, Chapel, Paintings, and Statuary. — Queen's Stables; Horses, Harness Room, State Carriage. — Soyer's Symposium; Description of its Rooms. — Dinner there.

LETTER XX.

The Temple Church and its historical Associations. — Steamboat on Thames. — View of St. Paul's from River. — St. Paul's Cathedral; its Dome. — Statues: Johnson, Howard, Reynolds, Heber, West, Nelson. — Ascent of the Dome and Cross. — View of London.

LETTER XXI.

Westminster Abbey. — Early History. — Associations. — Poet's Corner. — Chapels. — Monuments and Effigies. — Coronation Chairs. — Stone of Scone Statuary. — Sermon in Abbey by Lord John Thynne.

LETTER XXII.

Hyde Park. — St. James's and Green Park. — Regent's Park. — Squares of London. — Northumberland House. — Sion House. — St Margaret's Church. — St. Martin's in-the-Fields.

LETTER XXIII.

Mission House. — Lord Mayor's Day. — Royal Exchange. — Bank of England. — London Docks. — Covent Garden Market.

LETTER XXIV.

Rev. Dr. Murray. — Dover Castle. — Passage across the Channel. — Calais. — St. Omer. — Douai. — Arras. — Amiens. — Clermont. — Paris. — Hotel Windsor. — A Mistake, and Loss of a Dinner.

LETTER XXV.

Gardens and Promenades. — Gayety. — Flowers. — Wrong Drawing-room. — Notre Dame. — Interior. — Sacristy. — Robes and Relics. — Hotel de Ville. — Louvre shut. — Paris by Moonlight.

LETTER XXVI.

Palais Royal. — Garden. — Gay Scene. — Passage d'Orleans. — House opposite to which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. — MoliÈre. — Marat and Charlotte Corday. — Palace of the Luxembourg. — Paintings. — Gardens. — Statuary. — Chapel.

LETTER XXVII.

Hotel de Cluny; History, Associations, Interior, wonderful Contents. — Julian's Palace of the Baths. — Mr. George Sumner. — Church of St. Sulpice. — Statuary. — Ecclesiastical Fountain. — BibliothÈque St. GeneviÈve. — Church of St. Etienne du Mont. — History. — Monuments of Racine and Pascal. — Christening an Infant. — Church of St. Germain des Pres, (oldest in Paris); its Restoration going on. — Tombs of Descartes, Mabillon, Montfaucon, &c.

LETTER XXVIII.

Jardin des Plantes; Situation, History. — Cedar of Lebanon and Palm-trees. — Menagerie. — Cuvier. — Museum of Comparative Anatomy, &c. — Paris owes much to Henry IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe. — Pont Neuf. — St. Bartholomew's Massacre. — Bastile. — Column.

LETTER XXIX.

An amusing Fellow-countryman. — PÈre la Chaise. — Monuments. — Abattoir. — Consul's Office; his numerous Calls.

LETTER XXX.

Cirque. — Amusements. — Champs ElysÉes. — Hippodrome. — Arabs. — Sabbath kept in Parlor.

LETTER XXXI.

Pleasant Company. — Railroad to Brussels. — Jemappes. — Mons. — Brussels; History. — Hotel de Ville. — Cathedral Church of St. Gudule; its Monuments. — First Communion. — Park. — Palace. — Hon. Mr. Bayard.

LETTER XXXII.

Lacework. — Money Matters. — An uncivil Banker. — Museum. — Paintings. — Burgundian Library. — Manekin. — Botanical Garden.

LETTER XXXIII.

Excursion to Waterloo. — Hongomont. — Relics. — Belgian Mound and Lion. — Ivy from Waterloo for Mr. J.P. Hall. — Church. — King Leopold.

LETTER XXXIV.

Laeken. — Vilvorde. — Mechlin, or Mallnes. — Antwerp; History. — Place Verte. — Statue of Rubens. — Cathedral of Notre Dame. — Interior Pulpit. — Pictures by Rubens. — Tower of the Church. — Quentin Matsys's fine old Houses.

LETTER XXXV.

St. James's Church. — Tomb of Rubens. — Paintings by Rubens and Jordaens. — Vandyke. — Mount Calvary. — Monk of La Trappe. — Museum. — Chair of Rubens; his Pictures. — Other great Works of Art. — St. Andrew's Church. — Bourse. — Mr. Vesey, U.S. Consul.

LETTER XXXVI.

Dock Yards at Antwerp. — Steamboat Passage on the Scheldt. — Dort. — Lost Villages. — Bergen op Zoom. — Van Speyk. — Rotterdam. — Erasmus. — Delft. — Hague. — Hon. George Folsom; his Kindness. — Scheveningen. — Museum. — Japanese Curiosities. — Historical Curiosities. — Gallery of Pictures. — Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Gerard Dow, &c. — King's Palace. — Brimenhoff. — De Witt. — Bosch. — John Adams's House.

LETTER XXXVII.

Dunes. — Leyden; History. — Harlem. — Church of St. Bavon; Organ. — Coster. — Flower Gardens. — Palace of late King. — Picture Gallery. — Exhibition of Pictures by living Artists. — Amsterdam.

LETTER XXXVIII.

Mr. J.G. Schwartze. — Stadhuis. — Churches. — Jews. — Picture Gallery. — Dutch School. — Columbus before the Council. — Artists' Club.

LETTER XXXIX.

Utrecht. — Lobith. — Ruhrort. — Meet with Americans on Return from the East. — Cologne; History. — Cathedral. — Three Kings. — Relics. — St. Peter's Church. — Crucifixion of Peter, by Rubens. — Champagne for America.

LETTER XL.

The Rhine. — Bonn. — Drachenfels. — Godesberg. — Rolandseck. — Oberwinter. — Okenfels. — Castle Reineck. — Neuwied. — A Raft. — Castle of Sain. — Ehrenbreitstein. — Coblentz.

LETTER XLI.

Coblentz. — The Moselle. — Excursion to Stolzenfels. — Curiosities. — Fine View. — Boat up to Mayence. — The Brothers. — Rheinfels. — Lurley Rock. — Seven Sisters. — Pfalz. — The Rheingau. — Falkenberg. — Rheinstein. — Assmanshausen. — Ehrenfels. — Mausetherm. — Bingen. — Geisenheim. — Johannisberg. — Erbach. — Biberich. — Mayence. — John Guttemberg's Statue — Austrian Troops. — An English Nobleman.

LETTER XLII.

Frankfort. — The RÖmer; its Portraits of the Emperors. — Mr. Bethman's Gallery of Statuary. — Ariadne. — Jews' Quarters. — Darmstadt. — The Bergstrasse. — Heidelberg. — Castle. — Baden. — Kehl. — Strasburg.

LETTER XLIII.

Cathedral; Its History; Interior Clock. — St. Thomas's Church. — Kleber's Tomb.

LETTER XLIV.

Vosges Mountains. — Vineyards. — Colmar. — MÜhlhausen. — Basle. — Black Forest. — United States Consul, Mr. Burchardt. — Cathedral. — Tomb of Erasmus. — Chapter House. — Holbein Gallery. — University. — Library. — MSS. — St. Jacob. — Tea Party.

LETTER XLV.

Moutiers Valley. — Sublime Scenery. — Domach. — Arch. — Roman Antiquities. — Berne. — Mechanical Clock. — Cathedral; Organ, Choir, Bears. — Lausanne.

LETTER XLVI.

Mountain Scenery. — Hotel Gibbon. — Episcopal Church. — Signal. — Hotel de Ville, and its kind Inhabitants. — Cathedral; its History. — Steamboat to Vevay. — Castle of Chillon. — St. Martin's Church and the Regicides. — Geneva. — Cathedral. — Museum. — Calvin's MBS. — D'AubignÉ. — Gaussen — Malan. — Evangelical Association; its Anniversary. — Count George. — SoirÉe. — Mr. Delorme. — The SalÈve. — Savoy. — Rousseau's Island.

LETTER XLVII.

Diligence for Dijon. — Fine Scenery. — Dijon; History. — Railroad to Paris. — Sens. — Cathedral. — Fontainebleau.

LETTER XLVIII.

Methodist Chapel. — Madeline. — Pantheon. — Louvre, open. — Statuary and Paintings. — Versailles. — Statuary. — Series of National Paintings. — Portraits of distinguished Men. — Apartments. — Gardens and Fountains. — Grand and Petit Trianon. — Passy. — St. Cloud.

LETTER XLIX.

Glass Depot — American Friends. — Good Intentions. — Hospital des Invalides. — Garden of the Tulleries; its Scenery. — Triumphal Arch. — Chapel of St. Ferdinand. — National Library. — A Tradesman's Memory.

LETTER L.

Calais; its Recollections. — Rough Passage of the Channel. — Dover. — Mr. Peabody's Entertainment on the Fourth of July described. — Company. — A patriotic Act.

LETTER LI.

Entertainment at the Belgian Minister's. — Young Nobility. — A noble Boy. — Craven Chapel. — Slavery. — Exhibition. — Pauper Labor. — Need of a Tariff.

LETTER LII.

Kind Friends at Bristol, — Weston Super Mare. — Museum of Baptist College. — Highbury Chapel. — Old Houses of Bristol. — Fine Churches.

LETTER LIII.

River Avon. — Wye. — Chepstow. — St. Aryan's. — Wynd Cliff. — Glorious Scenery. — Tintern Abbey; its History. — Ragland Castle; Appearance. — Marquis of Worcester. — Chopstow Castle. — Henry Marten. — Defence of the Parliamentary Party. — Severn River. — Old Passage. — Henbury. — Blaize Castle. — Birthday Lines.

LETTER LIV.

Leave Bristol. — Berkeley. — Cheltenham. — Birmingham; Manufactories. — Rev. John Angell James. — Mr. Vanwart. — Liverpool. — Chester; its Antiquity. — Cathedral. — Rows and Pillars. — Englishmen and Americans have much in Common. — Royal Agricultural Exhibition at Windsor.

LETTER LV.

Passage Home in the Steamer Atlantic. — Claims of the Collins Line. — Lessons taught by Travel in other Lands. — Our Comforts. — Excellent Character of many of the English Nobility. — Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. — Prospect of Affairs in Europe. — Popery as seen in her proper Territories.

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