  Chance turned the footsteps of the first white man toward Yellowstone. In 1807, John Colter, a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, was wounded in an Indian battle near Jackson Hole. In escaping, he journeyed northward and penetrated Yellowstone as far as what is now known as Tower Falls. More than twenty years later, Jim Bridger, a famous frontier guide, also entered the region that had come to be known as “Colter’s Hell” and verified the fantastic tales of his predecessor. But even then, no one accepted the story. Colter and Bridger were in the position of Marco Polo who had discovered an empire so strange that its very existence was doubted. Not until 1870, when a public exploring party made a thorough study of the region, were its wonders accepted as fact. Then, action quickly followed. In 1872 a bill was introduced before congress and speedily passed, that established Yellowstone as the first of our National Parks. A vast rectangle of 3,438 square miles lying in the northwest corner of Wyoming and overlapping into Montana and Idaho, Yellowstone is a broad, volcanic plateau with an average elevation of 8,000 feet, and with mountain peaks in and around the park rising as high as ten and twelve thousand feet ... more than two million enchanted acres with the greatest and most varied array of wonders in all the earth. Luggage and cars. But all this is recent history. Take a brief look at the amazing past of Yellowstone. Millions of years ago, the present high plateau was a parched, arid plain sheltered behind the buttresses of the continent’s two great mountain ranges—Appalachia in the East and Cascadia in the West. Slowly, the land sank and Yellowstone was buried a hundred fathoms deep under the arctic waters of the Sundance Sea. As the invading waters retreated, a shift in temperature changed Yellowstone into a huge subtropical marsh where giant dinosaurs drowsed and fed in the green half-light that filtered down through jungle trees. The next great geologic change saw Yellowstone thrust skyward by the slow buckling of earth’s crust ... scorched and shaken by a million years of volcanic activity ... covered by a vast sea of molten rhyolite. The hot lava slowly cooled and was in turn engulfed by creeping rivers of blue-green glacial ice. As this new ice age withdrew, countless sediment-bearing streams roared down from the melting glaciers and, aided by the bitter winds of high places, began carving Yellowstone into its present form. The Cathedrals are natural Gothic spires of hard stone that resisted erosion by the river when it carved the deep gorge of Gallatin Canyon. These formations are especially beautiful under a Montana moon. The Cathedrals are natural Gothic spires of hard stone that resisted erosion by the river when it carved the deep gorge of Gallatin Canyon. These formations are especially beautiful under a Montana moon. Man with camera. Even today, Yellowstone is a “young” land that is undergoing relatively rapid changes. The subterranean heat that causes its geyser activity is slowly subsiding. Old geysers die out and new ones grow in power and regularity. Imperceptibly, the canyons deepen, and erosion carves new patterns on rocky walls. This is the land ... rich in forests and wild life, and gemmed with sparkling mountain lakes ... that has been set aside for the perpetual enjoyment of our people. This is Yellowstone, oldest and greatest of America’s National Parks. Your trip to Yellowstone via The Milwaukee Road takes you through the most spectacular of all entrances—Gallatin Gateway. You leave the train at Three Forks, Montana, on the main transcontinental line of The Milwaukee Road. Just outside of town the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson rivers flow together to form the headwaters of the mighty Missouri. Lewis and Clark’s expedition camped here in 1805 on their way to the Pacific Northwest. There is a bronze tablet in the town park dedicated to Sacajawea, the Indian girl who guided the explorers. Three Forks was established as a trading post for the Missouri Fur Company in 1810. Pale shades of gray, buff, yellow and orange-red give rich color to the face of Sheep Mountain in Gallatin Canyon. Dark conifers cling to the lower slopes. Pale shades of gray, buff, yellow and orange-red give rich color to the face of Sheep Mountain in Gallatin Canyon. Dark conifers cling to the lower slopes. Leaving the train, you board a motor coach for a delightful drive of a little over an hour to Gallatin Gateway Inn. Accurately carved by a strange quirk of nature, Pulpit Rock towers high above the Gallatin Valley. Formations of this kind are not too unusual, and result when a core of hard rock is surrounded by softer material. Accurately carved by a strange quirk of nature, Pulpit Rock towers high above the Gallatin Valley. Formations of this kind are not too unusual, and result when a core of hard rock is surrounded by softer material. Mountain view. Yellowstone-bound, a Park motor coach starts up the Gallatin Valley with Castle Rock in the background. The comfortable buses have roll-back tops that permit full views of the surrounding rocky walls. Yellowstone-bound, a Park motor coach starts up the Gallatin Valley with Castle Rock in the background. The comfortable buses have roll-back tops that permit full views of the surrounding rocky walls. Riverside Geyser is an irregular performer that sends its plume-like jet diagonally out over the Firehole River. Higher up, the Firehole is a good fishing stream, but here its waters are strongly charged with minerals from the geysers and hot springs. Riverside Geyser is an irregular performer that sends its plume-like jet diagonally out over the Firehole River. Higher up, the Firehole is a good fishing stream, but here its waters are strongly charged with minerals from the geysers and hot springs. Geyser view. A bus load of visitors has stopped for a look at Old Faithful shooting its mighty column skyward. A bus load of visitors has stopped for a look at Old Faithful shooting its mighty column skyward. The Ranger at the far right indicates one of the hundreds of tinted pools that dot the geyser basins. The Ranger at the far right indicates one of the hundreds of tinted pools that dot the geyser basins. First Stop ... GeyserlandOne of the chief attractions of entering Yellowstone via Gallatin Gateway is the 80 mile motor trip through glorious mountain country that you enjoy without extra charge. Promptly after lunch, you leave Gallatin Gateway Inn in one of the luxurious motor coaches of the Yellowstone Park Company and begin the trip southward. In a short time you enter spectacular Gallatin Canyon. Just beyond Roaring Creek lie the huge, eroded battlements of Castle and Cathedral Rocks, majestic cliffs that dwarf the tiny river flowing swiftly at their base. This is the famed Montana dude ranch country, and you glimpse many of the ranches in the innumerable little valleys that are tributary to the Gallatin. You’ll see Sagebrush Point where the Gallatin flows in a graceful S-curve hundreds of feet below the road ... the broad cone of Lone Mountain rising to a height of ten thousand feet and Pulpit Rock, oddly and accurately carved by some freak of Nature. Perhaps you’ll catch sight of a moose feeding on lily roots in a pond beside the road, or a band of elk emerging warily from the timber. Over there is a new beaver dam, and that gray shadow skirting the road is a coyote. Feeding a fawn. Old Faithful Inn is said to be one of the highest and largest log buildings in the world. Its pleasantly rustic public rooms have long made it a favorite with Park visitors. Facilities are exceptionally complete. Old Faithful Inn is said to be one of the highest and largest log buildings in the world. Its pleasantly rustic public rooms have long made it a favorite with Park visitors. Facilities are exceptionally complete. Crossing dozens of creeks with picturesque, western names, you enter the boundaries of Yellowstone. Again leaving the Park, the road winds through the Madison National Forest, skirts Hebgen Lake, crosses the Madison and Its curiously formed cone has earned it the name of Grotto Geyser. In its two major basins, Yellowstone has more active geysers than all the rest of the world, but you’ll never tire of their varied fascination. Its curiously formed cone has earned it the name of Grotto Geyser. In its two major basins, Yellowstone has more active geysers than all the rest of the world, but you’ll never tire of their varied fascination. Cowboy with guitar. The Motor trip from Gallatin Gateway is a perfect introduction to Yellowstone, and shows you country unlike any within the Park. Here Comes Old FaithfulFrom West Yellowstone, the route follows the Madison through Christmas Tree Park, and then down the lovely valley of the Firehole River into geyserland. There are more geysers in Yellowstone than in all the rest of the world, and the greatest of them are here in the Lower and Upper Basins. The hiss of steam, low, subterranean mutterings and the roar of geysers in action make this landscape a scene from the Inferno. You see Fountain, Great Fountain, Riverside and Giant geysers, Morning Glory Pool and Fountain Paint Pot, and reach Old Faithful for dinner and the night. The most famous geyser in the world, Old Faithful may be depended upon to stage its almost hourly shows for your special benefit. Approximately every sixty-five minutes it growls and hisses for a moment, and then leaps into action sending its glorious plume of boiling water 120 or more feet into the sky. Old Faithful is a perfect spot for your first stay in Yellowstone and offers a variety of attractions that will make your time here seem all too short. Besides the many nearby geysers, you will see the iridescent turquoise of Morning Glory Pool with its flower-tinted cone ... Black Sand Pool and Sapphire Springs ... Firehole Lake with its flame-like streamers of gas bubbling to the surface, Chinaman Pool and numerous other steaming pools and springs. Yellowstone’s Ranger-Naturalists are always on hand to give interesting explanations of the numberless wonders of the Park. Yellowstone’s Ranger-Naturalists are always on hand to give interesting explanations of the numberless wonders of the Park. Shopping for souvenirs. Giant Geyser, though an irregular performer, is the largest in the Park. At full discharge it sends its huge stream of boiling water and steam from 200 to 250 feet in the air. The rumble and roar of the geysers can be heard for long distances in the clear mountain air. Giant Geyser, though an irregular performer, is the largest in the Park. At full discharge it sends its huge stream of boiling water and steam from 200 to 250 feet in the air. The rumble and roar of the geysers can be heard for long distances in the clear mountain air. Across the Firehole River clouds of drifting steam mark the Firehole Geyser Basin—another reason why beautiful Yellowstone is the most photographed of our National Parks. Across the Firehole River clouds of drifting steam mark the Firehole Geyser Basin—another reason why beautiful Yellowstone is the most photographed of our National Parks. There is an enclosed swimming pool and a museum. A variety of short walking trips may be taken with the ranger-naturalists, and longer trips made on horseback with colorful wranglers who know the phenomena of the Park. Old Faithful Inn itself is built wholly of native materials. Within its friendly walls, you dine, dance, play and meet congenial fellow travelers before the great open fireplace. The following day, your caravan moves on from Old Faithful past the beautiful Kepler Cascades of the Firehole, and over the Continental Divide. Here is the Rocky Mountain watershed that sends the rivers on one side flowing down to the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico, and on the other side, to the Pacific. To the south lie Shoshone Lake and the snowy peaks of the Teton range. Lovely Yellowstone LakeAt Thumb, the road descends to the shore of Yellowstone Lake. 7,730 feet above sea level, this huge lake covering more than 130 square miles, is America’s highest navigable body of water. Past Fishing Cone, the road skirts the shore of the Lake for many miles to the mouth of the Yellowstone River. Many Yellowstone visitors enjoy fishing or boating on the lake. Big, hard-fighting trout of several species inhabit the deep, perpetually cold waters of the lake, and afford the finest kind of sport. Boats, guides and fishing tackle are available. Here is part of the crowd clustered around Old Faithful as it nears time for an eruption. This famous geyser discharges with almost clock-like regularity at intervals of about 65 minutes. Here is part of the crowd clustered around Old Faithful as it nears time for an eruption. This famous geyser discharges with almost clock-like regularity at intervals of about 65 minutes. There are also a number of modern speedboats that were painstakingly hauled up to the lake. These mahogany beauties make regular Mile-and-a-half high Yellowstone Lake is ringed by the snow-capped Absaroka mountains. Mile-and-a-half high Yellowstone Lake is ringed by the snow-capped Absaroka mountains. But now our tour continues. Winding through beautiful Hayden Valley, the road continues, for the most part, close beside the Yellowstone River and then past Mud Volcano. Soon we cross over Chittenden Bridge, pass the Upper and Lower Falls and reach hospitable Canyon Hotel that is superbly situated at the head of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Successful fishermen. Pine trees cling precariously to the rocky walls of Kepler Cascades where the Firehole River drops down a series of picturesque falls and rapids. Pine trees cling precariously to the rocky walls of Kepler Cascades where the Firehole River drops down a series of picturesque falls and rapids. At the head of the Grand Canyon, the Yellowstone River roars thunderously down the great falls. Here, from viewpoints on either side of the canyon, is one of the most gloriously colorful scenes on this continent. At the head of the Grand Canyon, the Yellowstone River roars thunderously down the great falls. Here, from viewpoints on either side of the canyon, is one of the most gloriously colorful scenes on this continent. Photographing the great falls of the Yellowstone River. Magnificently Colorful ... the Grand CanyonTo many visitors, the Grand Canyon is the highpoint of Yellowstone. And well it may be, for the views from Artist or Inspiration Points are scarcely rivaled in all the world. A third of a mile wide and more than a thousand feet deep, the mighty gorge has been fantastically carved by the rushing waters of the Yellowstone River. Ranging in tone from pale lemon to tawny buff, the rock walls of the canyon are splashed with a hundred shades of crimson, blue and green—a glorious play of color that changes hourly with the passage of the sun. And far down at the bottom winds the jade green ribbon of the Yellowstone. Muted by distance, you hear the thunder of the Great Falls where the river leaps out and down, 308 feet into the gorge. To those who have seen it, the Canyon remains one of the scenic highlights of a lifetime. Warm yet delicate in coloring, big but not so big that it staggers the imagination, the gorge is as perfect and complete as a flawless gem. Leaving Canyon Hotel, you continue northward through Dunraven Pass, where the road climbs the shoulder of Mt. Washburn. If you wish, you may take the more spectacular route to the very summit of the 10,317 foot mountain for the finest panorama of the Park. Soon the road rejoins the Yellowstone River and you see Tower Falls. Flowing down from the high plateau, Tower Creek plunges down a 132-foot drop to join the Yellowstone in its long course eastward. Needle-like volcanic rocks stand sentinel at the head of the falls and nearby are strange buttresses of hard basalt forming palisades as regular as if they had been cut by man. A little farther up the road is a forest of petrified trees. These fallen giants of hard stone reproduce, in astonishing detail and in a variety of rich colors, the bark and wood fibers of which they were once composed. Painting the waterfall. Downstream from the main part of the canyon, the Yellowstone River winds in a narrow ribbon through the gray and buff walls of a rocky gorge. With the changing light, the river varies from silver to jade green. Downstream from the main part of the canyon, the Yellowstone River winds in a narrow ribbon through the gray and buff walls of a rocky gorge. With the changing light, the river varies from silver to jade green. Not far from Chittenden Bridge, the Yellowstone plunges down the Upper Falls. Seen from the lookout platform or from the camera viewpoint here, the fury and power of the cataract is indescribably impressive. Not far from Chittenden Bridge, the Yellowstone plunges down the Upper Falls. Seen from the lookout platform or from the camera viewpoint here, the fury and power of the cataract is indescribably impressive. Steps on the trail. Looking northeast from Inspiration Point, the canyon of the Yellowstone spreads its splendor before you. Do an about-face here and the view is toward the lower falls. Rapids lace the dark water with creamy foam. Looking northeast from Inspiration Point, the canyon of the Yellowstone spreads its splendor before you. Do an about-face here and the view is toward the lower falls. Rapids lace the dark water with creamy foam. Automobile tourists. Pulpit Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs has been built up from the mineral laden waters of hot springs. Ashy white in its dry, natural state, the rocky walls are tinted rainbow colors by living algae in the waters. Pulpit Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs has been built up from the mineral laden waters of hot springs. Ashy white in its dry, natural state, the rocky walls are tinted rainbow colors by living algae in the waters. Roadside bear. Fantasy in Stone ... |
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