| Chapter | Page |
| I. | On the Way to "The Land of the Long Night."—Homesick.—Tempted to Return.—Girls and Boys Say "No; Go on, Go on, Paul."—Decide to Continue my Journey.—Winter Coming On.—Don Warmer Clothing.—From Stockholm North. | 1 |
| II. | Snow Land.—A Great Snowstorm.—Fearful Roads.—Snow-ploughs.—Losing the Way.—Intelligence of the Horses.—Upset in the Snow.—Difficulty of Righting Ourselves.—Perspiring at 23 Degrees below Zero.—Houses Buried in the Snow. | 9 |
| III. | Halt at a Farmhouse.—Made Welcome.—A Strange-looking Interior.—Queer Beds.—Snowed In.—Exit through the Chimney.—Clearing Paths.—I Resume my Journey.—Reach Haparanda. | 17 |
| IV. | Good Advice from the People of Haparanda.—Warned against Still Colder Weather.—Different Costume Needed.—Dressed as a Laplander.—Lapp Grass for Feet Protection. | 29 |
| V. | What the Arctic Circle is.—Description of the Phenomenon of the Long Night.—Reasons for its Existence.—The Ecliptic and the Equinoxes.—Length of the Long Night at Different Places. | 36 |
| VI. | Fine Weather Leaving Haparanda.—Windstorms succeed.—A Finlander's Farm.—Strange Fireplace.—Interior of a Cow-House.—Queer Food for Cattle.—Passing the Arctic Circle. | 40 |
| VII. | Skees, or the Queer Snowshoes of the North.—How They Are Made.—Learning to Use Them.—Joseff's Instructions.—Hard Work at First.—Going Down Hill.—I Bid Joseff Good-bye. | 48 |
| VIII. | A Primitive Steam Bath House.—How the Bath was Prepared.—What are the Twigs for?—I Ascertain.—Rolling in the Snow.—Fine Effect of the Bath. | 56 |
| IX. | How the Laps and Finns Travel.—Strange-looking Sleighs.—Different Varieties.—Lassoing Reindeer.—Description of the Reindeer. | 60 |
| X. | Harnessing Reindeer.—The First Lessons in Driving.—Constantly Upset at First.—Going Down Hill with Reindeer.—Thrown Out at the Bottom.—Queer Noise Made by Reindeer Hoofs. | 66 |
| XI. | The Last Days of the Sun.—Beginning of the Long Night.—A Mighty Wall of Ice.—The Long Night's Warning Voice—The Aurora Borealis and its Magnificence. | 73 |
| XII. | The Snow Getting Deeper.—Lapp Hospitality.—A Lapp Repast.—Coffee and Tobacco Lapp Staples.—Babies in Strange Cradles.—How the Tents are Made.—Going to Sleep with the Mercury at 39° Below. | 77 |
| XIII. | Toilet with Snow.—A Lapp Breakfast.—Lapp Dogs. Talks with my Lapp Friend about the Reindeer.—Their Habits and Various Forms of Usefulness. | 89 |
| XIV. | Moving Camp.—Another Great Blizzard.—A Remarkable Sight—Deer Getting their Food by Digging the Snow.—How Reindeer are Butchered. | 99 |
| XV. | Watching for the Reappearance of the Sun.—The Upper Rim First Visible.—The Whole Orb Seen from a Hill.—Days of Sunshine Ahead. | 109 |
| XVI. | Wolves the Great Foe of the Lapps.—How the Reindeer are Protected against Them.—Watching for the Treacherous Brutes.—Stories of their Sagacity. | 112 |
| XVII. | In Search of Wolves.—A Large Pack.—They Hold a Consultation.—Their Fierce Attack on the Reindeer.—Pursuing Them on Skees.—Killing the Chief of the Pack. | 122 |
| XVIII. | Great Skill of the Lapps with Their Skees.—Leaping over Wide Gullies and Rivers.—Prodigious Length of Their Leaps.—Accuracy of Their Coasting.—I Start Them by Waving the American Flag. | 129 |
| XIX. | We Encounter More Wolves.—My Guide Kills Two with his Bludgeon.—A Visiting Trip with a Lapp Family.—Extraordinary Speed of Reindeer.—We Strike a Boulder.—Lake GivijÄrvi.—Eastward Again. | 136 |
| XX. | The Lapp Hamlet of Kautokeino.—A Bath in a Big Iron Pot.—An Arctic Way of Washing Clothes.—Dress and Ornaments of the Lapps.—Appearance and Height of the Lapps.—GivijÄrvi.—Karasjok. | 142 |
| XXI. | Leave Karasjok still Travelling Northward.—The River Tana.—River Lapps.—Filthy Dwellings.—On the Way to Nordkyn.—The Most Northern Land in Europe. | 150 |
| XXII. | Leave Nordkyn.—Frantic Efforts of the Reindeer to Keep their Footing on the Ice.—The Bear's Night.—Foxes and Ermines.—Weird Cries of Foxes.—Building Snow Houses.—Shooting-boxes.—Killing Foxes.—Traps for Ermines.—A Snow Owl. | 155 |
| XXIII. | Jakob Talks to Me about Bears.—The Bear's Night.—Watching a Bear Seeking for Winter Quarters.—The
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