Archibald Campbell

Voyage to Sandwich Islands—Make Owhyhee—Touch at Mowee—Proceed to Wahoo—Tamaahmaah and other chiefs come on board—Author resides three months with the King—Account of his mode of life—Remove to the house of Isaac Davis—Account of him—Death of Terremytee, the King’s brother, and transactions that took place on that occasion—Remarkable water-spout—Author receives a grant of land from the King, to which he removes—Residence there—Arrival of the ship Duke of Portland—Anecdotes of the King—Departure from the Sandwich Islands.

We proceeded on our voyage to the Sandwich Islands, and enjoyed fine weather, with favourable winds.

No land was seen from the time we quitted the Fox Islands, till the 27th of January.

On that morning, at day break, we discovered the mountains of Owhyhee, at the distance of ten leagues. In the afternoon, we were close in with the land, and coasted along the north side of the island.

The breeze being light, several canoes came from the shore with fresh provisions. We stood off and on for some time, carrying on a brisk trade with the natives; amongst other things supplied by them, we were surprised to find sheep and goats, the breed of which, although but recently introduced, has increased so rapidly that they already form an article of trade.

We passed the foot of Mouna-kaa,[18] one of the highest mountains in the world. The sides are extremely steep, and although situated within the tropics, the summit is perpetually covered with snow; a narrow tract of level ground lies between the base of the mountain and the sea, terminating in high abrupt clifts; presenting at a distance a most barren appearance. On a nearer approach, however, we could observe numerous patches of cultivated land, and the lower parts of the mountain covered with wood. Farther to the west, the plains are of greater extent, the country well wooded, and in a high state of cultivation; with many villages and houses, presenting every appearance of a numerous and industrious population.

Mouna-roa,[19] one of the mountains in the interior, is a volcano; a few years before this time a violent eruption took place, when it sent forth a stream of lava which ran into the sea. Isaac Davis, with whom I afterwards resided, and who had gone in a canoe to witness it, informed me that where the lava joined the sea, the heat was so intense that he could not approach nearer than fifty yards. We did not see any flame or smoke issuing from the crater.

We made sail in the evening, and reached Mowee the following day.

Whilst running along the southeast side of the island, several canoes came off with refreshments. In one of them was a white man, calling himself Joseph Wynn, an American. He had resided several years upon the island, where he had a family, and cultivated a piece of land, which had been granted to him by Crymakoo, a powerful chief.

I afterwards learned that his real name was Angus Maccallum, a native of Houstoun, in Renfrewshire. Having served with his brother in the Diana frigate, and coming from the same part of the country, a great degree of intimacy naturally took place between us, and we had much conversation together.

Amongst other things, I told him that I understood the Russians had some intention of forming a settlement on the Sandwich islands. This reached the captain’s ears; and he gave me a severe reprimand, for having, as he expressed it, betrayed their secrets. He desired me to say no more on the subject in future, otherwise I should not be permitted to quit the ship.

I know not what obstacle prevented this plan from being carried into effect; but although the Neva remained several months in the country, I never heard any more of the settlement.

We came to anchor in the harbour of Lahina. The captain went ashore and returned with a supply of fresh provisions. I wished much to have accompanied him, but the surf rendered the landing too difficult for one in my helpless condition.

Tamaahmaah, king of Owhyhee, Mowee, Wahoo, and the adjoining islands, resided some years at this place. His house, which we could distinctly see from the ship, was built of brick, after the European manner. Of late, he has fixed his residence at Wahoo; upon learning of which, the captain determined to proceed thither.

The island of Mowee is of great height. At a distance it appears like two islands; a low flat piece of land running completely across, and dividing it into two peninsulas. Maccallum informed me that it was very fertile; that provisions were abundant, and much cheaper than at either Owhyhee or Wahoo.

We weighed on the morning of the 29th, and passing between the islands of Morokai and Ranai, reached the harbour of Hanaroora, on the south side of Wahoo, the same evening.

A number of natives came off, as usual, the moment the ship hove in sight. King Tamaahmaah was in a large double canoe; on his coming along side, he sent his interpreter on board to announce his arrival.

The captain immediately went to the gangway to receive his majesty, and shook hands with him when he came upon deck.

He was, on this occasion, dressed as a European, in a blue coat and gray pantaloons.

Immediately on his coming aboard, the king entered into earnest conversation with the captain. Amongst other questions, he asked whether the ship was English or American? being informed that she was Russian, he answered, “Meitei, meitei,” or, very good. A handsome scarlet cloak, edged and ornamented with ermine, was presented to him from the governor of the Aleutian islands. After trying it on, he gave it to his attendants to be taken on shore. I never saw him use it afterwards. In other canoes came Tamena, one of his queens, Crymakoo, his brother-in-law, and other chiefs of inferior rank.

My appearance attracted the notice, and excited the compassion of the queen; and finding it was my intention to remain upon the islands, she invited me to take up my residence in her house. I gladly availed myself of this offer, at which she expressed much pleasure; it being a great object of ambition amongst the higher ranks to have white people to reside with them. When the ship was brought to anchor, she sent me ashore in one of her canoes.

Captain Hagemeister recommended me at the same time to the notice of the king, by informing him, that I could not only make and repair the sails of his vessels, but also weave the cloth of which they were made.

The king assured him that I should be treated with the utmost kindness. It will be seen in the sequel how well he performed his promise.

Upon landing I was much struck with the beauty and fertility of the country, so different from the barrenness of the Fox islands. The village of Hanaroora, which consisted of several hundred houses, is well shaded with large cocoa-nut trees. The king’s residence, built close upon the shore, and surrounded by a pallisade upon the land side, was distinguished by the British colours and a battery of sixteen carriage guns, belonging to his ship, the Lily Bird, which at this time lay unrigged in the harbour. This palace consisted merely of a range of huts, viz. the king’s eating-house, his sleeping-house, the queen’s house, a store, powder-magazine, and guard-house, with a few huts for the attendants, all constructed after the fashion of the country.

At a short distance were two extensive storehouses, built of stone, which contained the European articles belonging to the king.

I was conducted to the house occupied by the two queens. It consisted of one large apartment, spread with mats; at one end of which the attendants of both sexes slept, and at the other the queens occasionally slept when the king was in the morai.

They and their attendants always eat here, and Tamena wished me to join them; but as I had been informed by Crymakoo, that if I did so, I should not be allowed to eat with men, I resolved to decline her offer.

The Neva remained in the harbour three months, during which time I ate my victuals on board. At the end of that period, having completed a cargo of provisions, consisting of salted pork and dried taro root, she sailed for Kodiak and Kamschatka. I was then invited by the king to take my meals in his eating-house, and at the same time he desired a young American, of the name of William Moxely, a native of Norfolk in Virginia, who understood the language, to eat along with me, to act as my interpreter. The king’s mode of life was very simple; he breakfasted at eight, dined at noon, and supped at sunset.

His principal chiefs being always about his person, there were generally twenty or thirty persons present; after being seated upon mats spread on the floor, at dinner a dish of poe, or taro pudding, was set before each of them, which they ate with their fingers instead of spoons. This fare, with salt fish and consecrated pork from the morai, formed the whole of the repast, no other food being permitted in the king’s house. A plate, knife and fork, with boiled potatoes, were, however, always set down before Moxely and me, by his majesty’s orders. He concluded his meal by drinking half a glass of rum; but the bottle was immediately sent away, the liquor being tabooed, or interdicted to his guests. The breakfast and supper consisted of fish and sweet potatoes.

The respect paid to the king’s person, to his house, and even to his food, formed a remarkable contrast to the simplicity of his mode of living.

Whenever he passed, his subjects were obliged to uncover their heads and shoulders. The same ceremony took place upon their entering, or even passing his residence; and every house which he entered was ever after honoured with the same marks of respect. Once, when employed in the house of Isaac Davis, making a loom for the king, I observed him passing, and being ignorant of this custom, requested him to enter and observe my progress; but he declined doing so, informing me of the consequence. He, therefore, seated himself at the door, till I brought out my work for his inspection.

When his food was carrying from the cooking-house, every person within hearing of the call Noho, or, sit down, given by the bearers, was obliged to uncover himself, and squat down on his hams.[20]

This ceremony was particularly inconvenient when the water used in the king’s house was carried past; there being none of a good quality near Hanaroora, it was necessary to bring it from the mountains, a distance of five miles. The calabash carriers were obliged, when any person appeared in sight, to call out Noho. They, however, ran past as quick as they could, not to detain his majesty’s subjects in so unpleasant an attitude.

White people were not required to pay these honors, though scrupulously exacted from the natives.

Tamaahmaah was most attentive in performing the duties of religion, and constantly attended the morai on the taboo days, which took place about four times each month. The ceremonies lasted one day and two nights; during which time no person was permitted to pass the bounds of the morai.

When the king was absent on these occasions, I did not experience the same attention as at other times; the attendants became very remiss in providing my dinner, and I was sometimes obliged to go without it altogether.

I accompanied the king once to the morai; but not relishing the confinement, and being unwilling to make complaints, I removed, about the beginning of May, to the house of Isaac Davis, a Welshman, who had been about twenty years upon the island, and remained with him till the king gave me a grant of land about six months afterwards.

Mr. Davis arrived at the Sandwich islands as mate of a small American schooner. The captain, a very young man, having incautiously permitted the natives to go on board, without any restriction, a chief, of the name of Tamahmotoo, observing this, planned her capture. For which purpose a number of natives, under various pretences, crowded into the vessel, and, upon a signal being given, threw the whole crew, five in number, into the sea. Davis, being an excellent swimmer, laid hold of one of the canoes, from which, however, he was beat off by paddles. He swam to another, where the natives also attempted to beat him off; but being a stout, athletic man, he was able to keep his hold. Having no arms, they attempted to put him to death, by holding him under the water, and beating him with their paddles; and also endeavoured to strangle him, by placing his neck across one of the beams of the canoe, and trampling upon him. But by this time the rest of the crew having been destroyed, and the schooner taken possession of, they relented, and ceased to torment him any farther. He was carried ashore blind, and almost lifeless, and it was eighteen months before he recovered his sight. He told me, that, before this time, he had never believed in the existence of a God, and had led a very sinful life; that, upon the near prospect of death, the idea of his offences filled him with terror; and that he tried to repeat the Lord’s Prayer, and felt himself strengthened after doing so.

Tamaahmaah, who was at a distant part of the island, was extremely indignant at Tamahmotoo when he heard of this outrage.

He took the vessel from him for the purpose of restoring her to her owners, and showed the utmost kindness to Davis. Nearly at the same time another Englishman, of the name of Young, was detained upon the island.

These two constantly attached themselves to Tamaahmaah; and, from their knowledge of fire-arms, proved of essential service in the expeditions in which he conquered Mowee, Morotoi, and Wahoo.

They were rewarded, by being raised to the rank of chiefs, and received extensive grants of land.

When Tamaahmaah removed to Wahoo, Davis accompanied him, and he left Young as governor of Owhyhee. These two he always treated with greater confidence than any of the native chiefs. Davis had extensive grants of land on several of the islands. Upon Wahoo alone he had estates on which were four or five hundred people, who cultivated the land, and paid him a rent in kind. These were exempted from the taxes paid by the other chiefs for their lands; but Davis frequently made the king presents of feather cloaks, and other valuable articles.

He was married to a native woman, by whom he had no children. By a former wife he had three, two of whom were left under the charge of Mr. Young of Owhyhee. His house was distinguished from those of the natives only by the addition of a shed in front to keep off the sun; within, it was spread with mats, but had no furniture, except two benches to sit upon. He lived very much like the natives, and had acquired such a taste for poe, that he preferred it to any other food. We had, however, at all times abundance of pork, goat’s flesh, and mutton, and frequently beef sent by Young from Owhyhee; and in the mornings and evenings we had tea. His wealth, consisting of mats, feathers, and cloth, the produce of the island, and a large assortment of European articles, which he had acquired by trading with the ships that touched here; these were contained in a large storehouse, built of stone, adjoining his dwelling.

My first employment was to overhaul the sails of the king’s vessels, and to repair such as were out of order. After working two or three months at this, he desired me to make some canvass.

Having informed him that a loom was necessary, he ordered Boyd, his principal carpenter, to make one. This, however, Boyd declined, from an illiberal notion held by many of the white people, that the natives should be taught nothing that would render them independent of strangers. He told the king he did not know how to make looms; upon which I undertook to make one myself; although, by so doing, I incurred the displeasure of many of my countrymen. Davis had a native servant called Jack, who worked as a Tailor, and was a very handy fellow. This man showed much anxiety to observe how I proceeded; but his master told me by no means to allow him, as he was so quick he would soon learn to make a loom himself. When I said I had no wish to make it a secret, he replied, that if the natives could weave cloth, and supply themselves, ships would have no encouragement to call at the islands. Another instance of this narrow way of thinking occurred, when a brother of the queen’s, whose name I do not remember, but who was usually called by the white people, John Adams, wished me to teach him to read, Davis would not permit me, observing, “they will soon know more than ourselves.”

The making of the loom, from want of assistance, and want of practice, proved a very tedious job. I succeeded tolerably well at last; and having procured a supply of thread, spun by the women from the fibres of the plant of which their fishing lines are made, I began my operations.[21] After working a small piece, I took it to the king as a specimen. He approved of it in every respect except breadth, which was only about half a yard, saying, he wished it made wide enough for an awning to a ship. This was beyond my power; but I told him I could make it a yard wide, and then sow it up into any size. He accordingly ordered me to make a loom of the necessary dimensions.—The small piece I wove he kept, and showed it to every captain that arrived as a specimen of the manufacture of the country. I had nearly finished the other loom, when the ship arrived in which I quitted the island.

During the time I resided with Davis, Terremytee, the king’s brother, died. His body lay in state for a few days, in the morai; and was afterwards buried, according to custom, in a secret manner.

The public mourning that took place on this occasion was of so extraordinary a nature, that, had I not been an eye-witness, I could not have given credit to it.

The natives cut off their hair, and went about completely naked. Many of them, particularly the women, disfigured themselves by knocking out their front teeth, and branding their faces with red hot stones, and the small end of calabashes, which they held burning to their faces till a circular mark was produced; whilst, at the same time, a general, I believe I may say an universal, public prostitution of the women took place; the queens and the widow of the deceased alone exempted.

When the captain of a ship that lay in the harbour remonstrated with the king upon these disgraceful scenes, he answered that such was the law, and he could not prevent them.

About this time an immense water-spout broke in the harbour. It was first observed in the south, about noon. The day was fine, with a clear atmosphere, and nearly calm. When I saw it first, it appeared about the thickness of a ship’s mast, reaching from the sea to a heavy dark cloud that hung immediately over it. It approached slowly, the cloud gradually increasing in size. When it came near, we could observe the water ascending in a spiral direction, and the sea round its base boiling up in great agitation. At this time it seemed about the thickness of a hogshead. The tide was fortunately out; and upon crossing the reef, about an hour after its first appearance, the column broke, and such a mass of water fell, that the sea in the harbour was raised at least three feet upon the beach. No squall was experienced, nor did any rain fall. Hundreds of dead fish were picked up upon the reef, and along shore after it broke. I have seen several water-spouts at sea, and one that was nearly on board the ship in which I was, but none of them at all equal in magnitude to this.

The natives quitted their houses, and fled with the utmost precipitation in a direction opposite to that in which it approached. I was informed, that a few years before, one had broken on the north side of the island, by which a number of houses were washed away and many people drowned.

In the month of November the king was pleased to grant me about sixty acres of land, situated upon the Wymummee, or Pearl-water, an inlet of the sea about twelve miles to the west of Hanaroora. I immediately removed thither; and it being Macaheite time, during which canoes are tabooed, I was carried on men’s shoulders. We passed by foot-paths, winding through an extensive and fertile plain, the whole of which is in the highest state of cultivation. Every stream was carefully embanked, to supply water for the taro beds. Where there was no water, the land was under crops of yams and sweet potatoes. The roads and numerous houses are shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and the sides of the mountains covered with wood to a great height. We halted two or three times, and were treated by the natives with the utmost hospitality. My farm, called Wymannoo, was upon the east side of the river, four or five miles from its mouth. Fifteen people, with their families, resided upon it, who cultivated the ground as my servants. There were three houses upon the property: but I found it most agreeable to live with one of my neighbours, and get what I wanted from my own land. This person’s name was William Stevenson, a native of Borrowstounness. He had been a convict, and escaped from New South Wales; but was, notwithstanding, an industrious man, and conducted himself in general with great propriety. He had married a native, and had a family of several children.—He was the first who introduced into the island the mode of distilling a spirit from the tee-root, of which, however, he became so fond, that the king was obliged to deprive him of his still. When I knew him he had bound himself by an oath, not to taste spirits except at the new year, at which time he indulged to the greatest excess. He chiefly employed himself in his garden, and had a large stock of European vegetables.

In the end of February, I heard there was a ship at Hanaroora, and went up with a canoe-load of provisions, wishing to provide myself with some clothes, and, if possible, a few books. She proved to be the Duke of Portland, South-sea whaler, bound for England. When I learned this, I felt the wish to see my native country and friends once more so strong, that I could not resist the opportunity that now offered. In addition to these motives, the state of my feet had of late given me considerable uneasiness; the sores had never healed, and I was anxious for medical assistance, in the hopes of having a cure performed. I was, indeed, leaving a situation of ease, and comparative affluence, for one where, labouring under the disadvantage of the loss of my feet, I knew I must earn a scanty subsistence. I was a tolerable sail-maker; and I knew, that if my sores healed, I could gain a comfortable livelihood at that employment. These hopes were never realized; the state of my limbs renders me quite unable to hold a bolt-rope, and necessity has compelled me to betake myself to a more precarious and less agreeable occupation.

The king was on board the ship at the time, and I asked his permission to take my passage home. He inquired my reason for wishing to quit the island, and whether I had any cause of complaint. I told him I had none; that I was sensible I was much better here than I could be any where else, but that I was desirous to see my friends once more. He said, if his belly told him to go, he would do it; and that if mine told me so, I was at liberty.

He then desired me to give his compliments to King George. I told him that, though born in his dominions, I had never seen King George; and that, even in the city where he lived, there were thousands who had never seen him. He expressed much surprise at this, and asked if he did not go about among his people, to learn their wants, as he did? I answered, that he did not do it himself, but that he had men who did it for him. Tamaahmaah shook his head at this, and said, that other people could never do it so well as he could himself.

He sent a handsome cloak of feathers by Captain Spence as a present to his majesty, accompanied by a letter, which I heard him dictate to the captain. The purport of it was to remind him of Captain Vancouver’s promise, that a man of war, armed with brass guns, and loaded with European articles, should be sent to him; and added, that he was sorry he was so far away that he could not help him in his wars; and concluded, by requesting his acceptance of the cloak as a proof of his regard.

Having procured the king’s permission to depart, I went on shore to take leave of my friends; particularly Isaac Davis, and my patroness, the queen, who had always treated me with the utmost kindness. On this occasion she presented me with several valuable mats to sleep upon on board the ship.

It will be believed that I did not leave Wahoo without the deepest regret. I had now been thirteen months upon the island; during which time I had experienced nothing but kindness and friendship from all ranks—from my much honoured master, the king, down to the lowest native. A crowd of people attended me to the boat; unaccustomed to conceal their feelings, they expressed them with great vehemence; and I heard the lamentations of my friends on shore long after I had reached the ship.

We sailed next day, being the 4th of March.