  Abruptness of introduction the measure of importance, 196 Absolute, we would have an absolute standard if we could, 196 Absolutely, nothing is anything, 196 Academies and their influence, 146–59, 226, 248 Academy picture, the desire to paint an, 142 — Ciseri’s, at Locarno, 271 Accidentals, a maze of metaphysical, 23 Action, foundations of, lie deeper than reason, 107 Adaptation and illusion, 44 Adipose cushion of Italy, 92 Advertisements, American, at Locarno, 273 Æstheticism, culture, earnestness, and intenseness, all methods of trying to conceal weakness, 192 Affection a sine qu non for success, 158 Agape and gnosis, 17 Airolo, 25 Alcohol and imagination, 46 Alda, Il Salto della bella, 104 All things to all men, 66 Allen, Grant, 69 Almoner, the, of S. Michele, 315 Alone, should we like to see a picture when we are, 23, 158 Alpi and monti, difference between, 35 Alpine roads, the steps by which they have advanced, 59 Alps, narrowness of the, 61 Altar cloth, a fine embroidered 256 Altar-piece at Morbio Superiore, 237 Amateurs, wanted a periodical written and illustrated by, 156 Amber, a smile in, 235 Ambrogio, S., and neighbourhood, 113 American advertisements at Locarno, 273 Ancestors, to have been begotten of good ones for many generations, 252 Andermatt, 24 Andorno, 186 Angel, drawing an, down, 42 Angera, 258 Animals and plants, cause of their divergence, 153 Ants near Faido, 38 — and bees, stationary civilisation of, 195 — and their nests, 288 Anzone, the sad torrent of, 220 Apparition, artificial, of the B.V.M., 275 Appliances, creatures and their, 283 Apprenticeship v. the academic system, 150 Arona, 265 Art for art’s sake, 156 — Italian, causes of its decline, 141 — moral effect of, 252 Asbestos on pass between Fusio and Dalpe, 285 Asplenium alternifolium, 37 Ass dressed in sacerdotal robes, 67 Aurora Borealis like pedal notes in Handel’s bass, 83 Avalanches at Mesocco, 222 Avogadro, 148 B.A. degree should be assimilated to M.A., 186 Baby, death of a, bells rung for, 266 Bach as good a musician as Handel, 17 Badgers’ fat, 289 Balaclava, a stuffed Charge of, 251 Ballerini, Mgr., Patriarch of Alexandria, 268, 272 Banda, Casina di, 119 Bank of England note, Italian language on, 19 Barelli, Signer, at Bisbino, 239 Barley, mode of drying, 29 Barratt, Mrs., of Langar, 198 Baskets, helmet-shaped, near Lanzo, 134 Bastianini, 149 Bayeux tapestry, 150 Beaconsfield, Lord, 23, 141, 142 Beds, good, their moral influence, 184, 186 Bees, stationary civilisation of, 195 Beethoven on Handel, 18 Beginners in art, how to treat them, 155 Bell, Peter, and his primrose, 38, 143 Bellini, the, when, where, and how to get their like again, 146 Bellinzona, 198 Bergamo, Colleone chapel at, 231 Berkeley, Bishop, and his tar-water, 64 Bernardino, Padre, his inscription on my drawing, 220 Bernardino, San, 223 Biasca, 85 Biella, 169 Bignasco, 278 Bigotry, eating a mode of, 153 Birds, 116 — their names, 291 — their singing, 230 Bisbino, Monte, 233 Bishop, Boy, 67 — welcomed with a brass band, 272 Bleeding times, 312 Blinds, milkmen’s and undertakers’, 145 Blood, circulation of, like people, 20 Bodily mechanism, a town like, 20 Body, soul, and money, 107 Boelini, family of, 213 Bologna, Academy at, 147 Bonvicino, the famiglia, 124 Borromeo, S. Carlo, room in which he was born, 263 Botticelli, Sandro, on landscape painting, 45 Brebbia, church at, 258 Bridge, the first, 59 Brigand, right to free a, conferred upon Graglia, 189, 193 British Museum and Oropa, 183, 185 Buckley, Miss Arabella, 69 Bullocks, how I lost my, 154 Burrello, Castel, 114 Bussoleno, 114 Butcher, the eructive, 126 Cadagno, Lake of, 81 Cader Idris, an Archbishop on, 89 Calanca, Sta. Maria in, 202, 223 Calonico, 55 Cama, the Æsthetic dog at, 202 Cambridge, a modest proposal to make an Oropa of, 186 Campello, 76 Campo Santo at Calpiognia, 30 — at Mesocco, 204 — at Pisa, 159 Canaries, their song unpleasant, 231 Cantine, a day at the, 243 “Carbonate of pork,” 315 Carracci, the, 147 Casina di Banda, 119 Castelletto, 265 Cavagnago, 76 Cenere, Monte, narcissuses on, 228 Ceres, 161 Cerrea, 133 Chalk, ContÉ, the Italian for whom this was the one thing needful, 136 Chalk eggs, 43 Chamois, foot of, 283 Change, repudiation of desire for sudden, 186 — importance of, depends on the rate of introduction, 196 — either the circumstances or the sufferer will, 196 Changes, sweeping, to be felt hereafter as vibrations, 60 Cheapissimo, 165 Cheese and the alpi, 289 Chestnuts, 118 Chicory and seed onions, weary utterness in, 227 Children, subalpine, 301 — what becomes of the clever, 149 Chinese, the examination-ridden, 151 Chironico, 75 “Chow,” 52 Church-going, subalpine, 303 Circulation of people like blood, 20 Ciseri, his picture at Locarno, 271 Civilisation, antiquity of Italian, 124 — stationary, of ants and bees, 195 Class distinction inevitable, 195 Classification only possible through sense of shock, 63 Clergy, our English, and S. Michele priests, 106 Cloisters at Locarno, 271 — at Oltrona, 258 Club, the, the true university, 155 Collects, unsympathetic priest bristling with, 111 Colleone, Medea, 231 Colma di San Giovanni, 163 Comba di Susa, 119 Comfort as a moral influence 185 Comic song, the landlord’s, 128 Common sense, the safest guide, 108 Consistent, who ever is? 153 Contradictory principles, there must be a harmonious fusing of, 152 Converting things by eating them, 153 Corpses, desiccated, at S. Michele, 97 Cousins, my, the lower animals, 69 Cows fighting in farmyard, 120 Cricco, 125 Cristoforo, S., church of, at Mesocco, 208 — at Castello, 234 Crossing, efficacy of, 152 — unexpected results of, 55 — useless if too wide, 157 Crucifixion, fresco at Fusio, 140 Culture and priggishness, 141 — a mode of concealing weakness, 192 Current feeling, the safest guide, 108 Cutlets, burnt, and the waiter, 124 Dalpe, 38 Dante a humbug, 156 Darwin, Charles, no place for meeting, 69 Dazio, Signor Pietro, of Fusio, 279 Death, no man can die to himself, 277 Deceit a necessary alloy of truth, 289 Dedomenici da Rossa, 137–9 Demand and supply, 108 D’Enrico, the brothers, 189 Dentist’s show-case mistaken for relics, 43 Desire and power, 108 Development of power to know our own likes and dislikes, 22 Devil’s Bridge, 23 Diatonic scale, and song of birds in New Zealand, 232 Dirt, eating a peck of moral, 71 Disgrazia and misfortune, 58 D’Israeli, Isaac, quotations from, 67 Dissenters all narrow-minded, 153 Distribution of plants and animals often inexplicable, 135 Diversion of mental images, 54 Doing, the only mode of learning, 151 Doors, how they open in time, 151 Doubt, “There lives more doubt in honest faith,” 67 Downs, the South, like Monte Generoso, 230 Draughtsman, first business of a, 148 Drawing, the old manner of teaching, 150 Dream, my, at Lago di Cadagno, 82 Drunkenness and imagination, 46 Dunque, 133 Duso, Agostino, his fresco at Sta. Maria in Calanca, 225 Eating, a mode of bigotry, 153 Echo at Graglia, 192 Edelweiss, 291 Electricity and Alpine roads, 60 Elephant brays a third, 233 “Elongated” honey, 293 Embryonic stages, the artist must go through, 148 Endymion, Lord Beaconsfield’s, 23, 141 English as tract-distributors, 65 — language, its ultimate supremacy, 41 English priests and Italian, 106 — why introspective, 18 Equilibrium only attainable at the cost of progress, 195 Eritis, a panic concerning, 204 Eusebius, St., 178 Evolution and illusion, 43 — essence of, consists in not shocking too much, 110 Extreme, every, an absurdity, 153 Faido, 22 Faith, doubt lives in honest, 67 — more assured in the days of spiritual Saturnalia, 68 — foundations of our system based on, 107, 277 — and reason, 108 — catholic, of protoplasm, 152 — a mode of impudence, 283 Falsehood turning to truth, 71 Famine prices at Locarno, 276 Feeling, current, the safest guide, 108 Fertile, rich and poor rarely fertile inter se, 195 Fires, how Italians manage their, 117 Fishmonger choosing a bloater, 23 Flats and sharps, a maze of metaphysical, 23 Fleet Street, beauties of, 19 Flowers, names of, 291 Fossil-soul, 234 Foundations of action lie deeper than reason, 107 — of a durable system laid on faith, 277 Francis, St., and Insurance Co.’s plate, 191 Friction, which prevents the unduly rapid growth of inventions, 60 Fucine, 166 Fun, Italian love of, 243 Fusing and confusing of ideas and structures, 44 — faith and reason, necessity of, 108 Gallows at S. Michele, 104 Garnets, 285 Garrard, 159 Generations, more than one necessary for great things, 87, 188 Generoso, Monte, 229 German influences in Italian valleys, 167 Gesture older and easier than speech, 165 Giacomo, San, 223 Giorio, San, 113 Giornico, 73 Giovanni, San, Colma di, 163 Gladstone, Mr., advised to go to the Grecian pantomime, 68 Gnats, daily swallowing of, 69 Gnosis and Agape, 17 God not angry with the plover for lying, and likes the spider, 70 Goethe a humbug, 156 Gogin, Charles, 204 Gold at the Casina di Banda, 120 Gothard, St., scenery of the pass, 22 — crossing in winter, 24 — the old road, 38 Graglia, 188 Grammar and good technique, 156 Grecian pantomime, Mr. Gladstone recommended to see, 68 Gribbio, 76 Griffin at Temple Bar, 20 Grissino, pane, 135 Groesner, G. W., his picture at S. Maria in Calanca, 225 Groscavallo Glacier, 135 Habit, the oldest commonly resorted to at a pinch, 165 Hair, no monk to wear his hair more than two fingers broad, 313 Handel and Shakespeare, 17 — and Italy, 19 — how I said he was a Catholic, 69 Handel, his ploughman and his humour, 144 — his paganism and his religious fervour, 191 — the Varese chapels like a set of variations by, 252 — quotations from his music, 31, 34, 83, 84, 99, 200, 282 Harlington, inscription at, 234 Hawks, tame, 116 Hay-making at Piora, 81 Hedgehog, a spiritual, 111 Hen, the meditative, 110 — and chalk eggs, 43 Heresy and heretics, 152 Hieroglyph of a lost soul, 147 Holidays like a garden, 69 Holiness a Semitic characteristic, 142 Honey, the “elongation” of, 293 Hooghe, P. de, 267 Humbugs, the seven, 156 Humour, Italian love of, 243 — Leonardo da Vinci’s, 144 Huxley, 69 Ignazio, S., 161 Illusion and evolution, 43 — and fusion, 54 Images, mental diversion of the, 54 — worship of, 251 Imagination and bells, Leonardo da Vinci on, 45 Imperfection the only true perfection, 138 Impossibilissimo, 165 Impudence a mode of faith, 284 — the chamois continues to live through, 284 Inconsistency of plants and animals, 153 Infirmary times, 316 Institution, the Royal, why we go to, 68 Insurance Office, plate of, and St. Francis, 191 Intenseness a mode of weakness, 192 Interaction of reason and faith, 108 Irrigation, 119 Israelites, the Vaudois the lost ten tribes of, 112 Issime, bells at, 297 Italians, their resemblance to Englishmen, 141, 168 Ivy blossoms, intoxicating effect of, on insects, 104 Jay, a tame, 116 John-the-Baptist-looking man, 122 Joke, the mediÆval, 144 Jones, H. F., as my collaborator, 92 — on Lord Beaconsfield and Endymion, 142 — how he learned to draw, 150 — and the dog at Cama, 202 — and the fresco of S. Cristoforo at Mesocco, 209 — on the writing by Lazarus Borollinus, 213 Jutland and Scheria, 41 Kettle, sparks smouldering on, a sign of rain, 239 Kicking the waiter downstairs, 124 Kindliness v. grammar and deportment, 156 Kitchen at Angera, 263 Knowing our own likes and dislikes, difficulty of, 22 Knowledge, a good bed one of the main ends of, 186 LÀ, 132 Lamb and perpetual spring, 62 Lankester, Prof. Ray, 69 Larks and Wordsworth, 231 Latin and Greek verses and art, 145 Learning via doing, 151 Leg, old woman’s, at Dalpe, 39 — S. Rocco’s, 297 Lesbia and her passer, 231 Liberals throw too large pieces of bread at their hen, 110 Ligornetto, 243 Likes and dislikes hard to discover, 22 Liking and trying, 151 Locarno, 268 Locke, his essay on the understanding, 44 Locomotion of plants, 153 London, 19 Loom at Fucine, 166 Lothair sent to a University, 141 Ludgate Hill Station, 20 Lugano, 228 Luke, St., his statue of the Virgin, 178 Lying, a few remarks on, 69 M.A. degree should be assimilated to the B.A. degree, 186 Mairengo, 28 “Mans is all alike,” 146 Mantegnesque man at the Casina di Banda, 122 Maoris on white men’s fires, 117 Marcus Aurelius a humbug, 156 Marigold blossoms used to colour risotto, 227 Martello, Pietro Giuseppe, 189 Master and pupil, true relations between, 150 Matchbox, a frivolous, at Graglia, 194 Matilda and the Bayeux tapestry, 150 Megatherium fossil bores us, 235 “Membrane, my mucous, is before you,” 166 Mendelssohn, staying a long time before things, 24 Mendrisio, 228 Merriment an essential feature of the old feast, 191 Mesocco, 207 Michael Angelo would have failed for “Punch,” 143 Michele, S., 86 Microscope, a mental, wanted, 22 Milton and Fleet Street, 20 “Minga far tutto,” 244 Mirrors, frescoes of Death with, at Soazza, 204 Misfortune and disgrace, 58 Mistakes, essence of evolution lies in power to make, 110 — and plasticity, 44 Misunderstanding, essay on human, 44 Monks less sociable than priests, 71 — at S. Michele, 106 Montboissier, Hugo de, 87 Monti and alpi, difference between, 35 Montreal Mountain, 301 Moody, Tom, funeral of, 159 Morbio Superiore, 237 Mozart on Handel, 18 Murray’s Handbook, mistakes on S. Michele, 102 Music at Locarno, 272 — at Varese, 257 Names of birds, 291 — of flowers, 291 — scratched on walls, 213, 235 Narcissuses on Monte Cenere, 228 National Gallery, an art professor at the, 203 Nativity, a stuffed, 251 Negri, Cav. Avvocato, 41 Nemesis, an intellectual sop to, 67 Nests, artificial, 116 New Zealand, song of birds in, 232 Nicolao, S., church of, at Giornico, 73 — chapel of, on Monte Bisbino, 242 — above Sommazzo, 247 Nightingale does not use the diatonic scale, 231 Nose, the man who tapped his, 165 — the man with red, among the saints at Orta, 177 — dispute about a lady’s, 124 Noses, saints with pink, 254 Novice, the, to whom I played Handel, 69 “Obadiahs, The two,” welcoming a bishop with, 272 Oltrona, 258 Onions, seed, and chicory, their weary utterness, 227 Opportunity, lying in wait for, 152 Oratories, Ticinese, 42 Orchids that imitate flies, 70 Oropa, 169 Osco, 28 Oxford and Cambridge, proposal to make Oropas of them, 186 Paganism of Handel, Milton, and the better part of Catholicism, 191 Pagliotto at Varese, 256 Painting, the giants of, uninteresting, 144 — not more mysterious than conveyancing, 151 Pantheism lurking in rhubarb, 64 Parrot at Mesocco, 207 Passero solitario, 230 Paul, St., letting in the thin edge of the wedge, 66 — and seasonarianism, 68 Peccia, 278 Pella, 167 Periodical, wanted a, by pure amateurs, 156 Photography used in votive pictures, 145 Pick-me-up, a spiritual, 55 Pietro, San, 92 Pinerolo, 111 Piora, 77 Piotta, 26 Piottino, Monte, 26 Pirchiriano, Monte, 88 Plants and animals, causes of their divergence, 153 Plato a humbug, 156 Plover, the, a liar, 69 Pollaiuolo, Antonio, 131 Pollard, Mr., 158 Polypodium vulgare, 242 Porches, timber, 28 “Pork, carbonate of,” 315 Postilions, St. Gothard, 24 Potatoes easily bored, 55 Prato, 42 Present, the only comfortable time to live in, 61 Prigs, “she had heard there were such things,” 125 Primadengo, 33 Primrose Hill and the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, 89 Procaccini, the brothers, 248 Professions should be hereditary, 155 Progress and equilibrium, each have their advantages, 195 Propositions want tempering with their contraries, 158 Proselytising by eating, 153 Protestantism less logical than Catholicism, 106 — more logical than Catholicism, 192 Protestants do not try to understand Catholicism, 273 Protoplasm, the catholic faith of, 152 Pruning of trees, 129 Pulmonary complaints in subalpine villages, 290 “Punch,” the illustrations to, 143 Punishment, eternal, denied by an Italian, 111 — we would have it so if we could, 196 Purgatory, fresco at Fusio, 140 Quarrel, pleasure of laying aside a, 69 — why the subalpine people quarrel so little, 223 Quietism v. going about in search of prey, 152 Quirico, S., chapel of, 261 Raffaelle a humbug, 156 Railway director, the ideal, his education, 155 Rascane, 29 Rationalism, when will it sit lightly on us? 112 Reason and faith, 108 — insufficient alone, 108 — and the chamois’s foot, 283 Recreation and regeneration, 54 — cities of, 186 Red Lion Square said by an Italian to be the centre of London business, 125 Reformation, the, confined to a narrow area, 135 Relics, dentist’s show-case mistaken for, 43 Rembrandt, Sir W. Scott on, 77 Renaissance, the standing aloof from academic principles a sine qu non for a genuine, 155 Revolutions felt hereafter as mere vibrations, 60 Rhinoceros grunts a fourth, 233 Rhubarb, reflections upon, 62 Richmond Gem cigarette, advertisement of, 273 Risotto, marigolds for colouring, 227 Ritom, Lago, 79 Roads, Alpine, 59 Rocca Melone, 167 Rocco, San, and his leg, 297 Rocks, conventional treatment of, in fresco, 143 Romanes, Mr., 69 Ronco, 77 Rosherville Gardens and Varese, 256 Rossa, Dedomenici da, 137–9 Rossura, 49 Royal Institution, why we go to the, 68 Ruins, all, are frauds, 261 Sacramental wafers, how the novice taught me to make, 69 Sagno, 238 Saints a feeble folk at Varese, 253 Sanitary conditions of the alpi, 290 — of Fusio, 299 Scheria and Jutland, 41 Schools, our, are covertly radical, 158 Scott, Sir W., on Rembrandt, 77 Seasonarianism and St. Paul, 68 Seasons, the, like species, 63 Semitic characteristic, holiness a, 142 Shakespeare and Handel, 17, 185 Shock, a sine qu non for consolation and for evolution, 54 — our perception of a, our sole means of classifying, 63 Signorelli, Signor, 264 Skeletons at S. Michele, 97 Sketching clubs, their place in a renaissance of art, 156 Sleep, cost of, 184 Smile, a, in amber, 235 Smuggling on Monte Bisbino, 238 Soazza, 198 Sommazzo, 247 Soot, sparks clinging to, a sign of rain, 239 Soul, hieroglyph of a lost, 147 Soul-fossil, 234 Sparrow, the solitary, 230 Sparrows, tame, at Angera, 260 Species like the seasons, 63 Speculation founded on illusion, 44 Speech not so old as gesture, 165 Spider, the, a liar, but God likes it, 70 Spiders are liers-in-wait, 152 Spinning-wheels at Fucine, 166 Spiral tunnels, 58 Spires near the Lake of Orta, 167 Sporting pictures, 159 Spring, perpetual, and lamb, 62 Spurs at the Tower of London, 215 Stomach affected by thunder, 127 Structures, fusion and confusion of, 44 Stura Valley, 167 Success due mainly to affection, 158 Sunday at Rossura, 51 Supply and demand, 108 Switzerland, German, I have done with, 28 Tabachetti, 189 Tacitus hankered after German institutions, and was a prig, 142 Tanner, extract from ledger of, 235 Tanzio, Il, 189 Tar-water, Bishop Berkeley’s, 64 Technique and grammar, 156 TÉmoin, Le, a Vaudois newspaper, 111 Tempering, all propositions want, with their contraries, 152 Tengia, 55 Tennyson, misquotation from, 67 Thatch, an indication of German influence, 167 Theism in Bishop Berkeley’s tar-water, 64 Thunder, its effect on the stomach, 127 Ticino carries mud into the Lago Maggiore, 220 “Tira giÙ,” 42 Titian would not have done for “Punch,” 143 Toeless men, 129 Tondino, 164 Torre Pellice, 111 Torrents, deification of, 220 Tower of London, prisoners’ carvings in, 150 — figure of Queen Elizabeth in, 175 — spurs in, 215 Trees, pruning of, 129 Tremorgio, Lago di, 79 Trinity College, Cambridge, and Oropa, 173 Triulci, family of, at Mesocco, 214 Trojan War, duration of, 198 Trout in the Lago Ritom, 79 Truth, deceit a necessary alloy for, 289 Tunnels, spiral, 58 Turin, picture gallery at, 131 Tyndall, Professor, 69 Universities and priggishness, 141 — few pass through them unscathed, 151 — an obstacle to the finding of doors, 155 — covertly radical, 158 — proposal to make Oropas of them, 186 Varallo, 176 Vela, Professor, and his son, 243 Velotti, Nicolao, 188 Verdabbio, 223 Vibrations, revolutions in our social status felt as, 60 Vinci, Leonardo da, on bells, 45 — would have failed for “Punch,” 143 — and Nature’s grandchildren 148 — and anatomy, 216 ViÙ, 160 Vogogna, 265 Votive pictures, 121, 145, 180, 271 Wafers, sacramental, how the novice taught me to make, 69 Waitee, 41 Waiter, the, at S. Pietro, 124 Walnuts, 118 Waterloo Bridge, view from, 20 Waterspouts at Mesocco, 219 West, Benjamin, his picture of Christ healing the sick, 72 Will, Lord Beaconsfield on, 23 Wine-cellars, a day at the, 243 Winter, crossing the St. Gothard Pass in, 24 — in Ticino valley, 78 — at Fusio, 299 — at Montreal, 300 Woodsia hyperborea, 37 Wordsworth and larks, 231 Yawning of a parrot, 207 Yew-trees, clipped, 167 York, Archbishop of, and Scafell, 89 |
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