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CHAPTER I.

VORARLBERG.

Introductory remarks on the use of myths, legends, and traditions; their imagery beyond imitation; have become a study; now a science; Prof. M. MÜller; Rev. G. W. Cox—Karl Blind on attractions for the English in Germanic mythology; mythological persons of Tirol—Mythological symbols in art; in poetry; Dante on popular traditions; their record of thoughts and customs; Tullio Dandolo; Depping; Tirolean peasants 1

Our introduction to Tirol—Excursions round Feldkirch; the Katzenthurm; St. Fidelis; St. Eusebius—Rankweil—Fridolins-kapelle—Valduna—S. Gerold—Route into Tirol by Lindau—Bregenz, birthplace of Flatz—Legend of Charlemagne; of Ulrich and Wendelgard—Ehreguota—Riedenberg school—the natural preserves of Lustenau—Merboth, Diedo, and Ilga—Embs; its chronicles; Swiss embroidery; Sulphur baths; Jews’ synagogue—Lichtenstein; Vaduz; Hot sulphur-baths of PfÄffers; Taminaschlund; Luziensteig 12

From Feldkirch to Innsbruck—The Pass of Frastanz; Shepherd lad’s heroism; the traitor’s fate—S. Joder and the Devil—Bludenz—Montafon; who gave it its arms—Prazalanz—The Tear-rill; Kirschwasser—Dalaas—Silberthal—Das BruederhÜsle—Engineering of the Arlberg pass—Stanzerthal—Hospice of St. Christof—Wiesburg—Ischgl; its ‘skullery’—Landeck—Legend of Schrofenstein—Sharpshooter’s monument—Auf dem Fern—Nassereit—Tschirgants Branch road to FÜssen—Plansee—Lechthal—Imst—Pitzthal—Growth of a modern legend—Heiterwang—Ehrenberger Klauze Archenthal—Vierzehn Nothhelfer 24

A border adventure; our party; our plans; our route—Aarau—Rorschach; its skeleton-CaryatidÆ—Oberriet—Our luggage overpowers the station-master—Our wild colt—Our disaster—Our walk—Our embroideress guide—The Rhine ferry—The RhÆtian Alps—Altenstadt—Schattenburg—British missionaries to Tirol—Feldkirch, festa, costumes—Our luggage again—Our new route—Our postilion—The Stase-saddle—The Devil’s House—The Voralberger-ghost 39

CHAPTER II.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

KUFSTEIN TO ROTTENBURG.

Kufstein—Pienzenau’s unlucky joke—Ainliffen—Rocsla Sandor; the Hungarian lovers—National anthem—Thierberg—A modern pilgrim—Der BÜsser—Public memorials of religion—Zell—Ottokapelle—Kundl—S. Leonhard auf der Wiese; its sculptures—Henry II.’s vow—The AuflÄnger-BrÜndl—Rattenberg—Rottenburg—St. Nothburga; her integrity, charity, persecution, patience, piety, observance of Sunday; judgment overtakes Ottilia: Nothburga’s restoration; legend of her burial—Henry VI. of Rottenburg and Friedrich mit der leeren Tasche—Character of each—Henry’s literary tastes; his mysterious fate—The fire spares Nothburga’s cell—Mining legend 53

CHAPTER III.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

THE ZILLERTHAL.

The Zillerthal—Conveyances—Etruscan remnant—Thurnegg and Tratzberg across the river—Strass—Corn or coin?—The two churches of Schlitters—Castles of the Zillerthal—The peace of Kropfsberg—‘The only FÜgen’—The patriot Riedl—Zell—Expulsion of Lutherans—Hippach—Hainzenberg; ultra co-operative gold mines—Mayrhof—Garnet mills—MariÄ-Rastkapelle—Hulda—Tributary valleys—Duxerthal—Hinter-Dux—Hardiness of the people—Legends of the frozen wall—Dog’s-throat valley—The Devil’s path—The Zemmer glacier—Schwarzensteingrund 79

CHAPTER IV.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

ZILLERTHAL CUSTOMS—THE WILDSCHÖNAU.

Zillerthal customs—Games—Spirits play with gold skittles—Pedlar of Starkenberg—Dances: SchnodahÜpfl: Hosennagler—Cow-fights—Kirchtag—Primizen and Sekundizen—Carneval—Christnacht—Kloubabrod—Sternsingen—GÖmacht—Weddings—Zutrinken—Customs of other valleys—The cat, patron of courtship 92

Kundl again—Wiltschenau—Niederaich—Kundlburg—Oberau—Niederrau—Thierberg—Silver-mines—Legends of dwarfs and Knappen—Moidl and the gold-cave—Legend of the Landmark—Der Umgehende Schuster—Perchtl, Pilate’s wife—Comparative mythologists—Wodin, Wilder JÄger, Wilhelm Tell—Symbolism in tales of enchanted Princesses—Perahta, the daughter of Dagha—Brixlegg—Burgleckner—Claudia de’ Medici—Biener’s dying challenge—The Bienerweible—Sandbichler, the Bible-commentator 110

CHAPTER V.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL.

LEFT INN-BANK.

Jenbach—Wiesing—Thiergarten—Kramsach—Brandenberger Ache—Voldepp—The Mooserthal—The Mariathal—Rheinthalersee—Achenrain—Mariathal, village and ruined Dominican convent—Georg von Freundsberg—The Brandenbergerthal—Steinberg—Heimaththal, Freiheitthal—The gold-herds of the Reiche Spitze—Die Kalte Pein—Mariastein—The irremovable image—Jenbach—Wiesing—The Thiergarten—The Achenthal—The KÄsbachthal—The Blue Achensee—Skolastica—Pertisau—Buchau, Nature’s imitation fortress—Tegernsee—The Achen-pass—The judgment of Achensee—Playing at ball in St. Paul’s cathedral—Legend of Wildenfeld—Eben—The escape of the vampire—Stans—Joseph Arnold—Tirolean artists—The Stallenthal—St. Georgenberg—Unsere liebe Frau zur Linde—Viecht, Benedictine monastery, library, sculpture—Vomperthal—Sigmundslust—Sigismund the Monied—Terfens—Marialarch—Volandseck—Thierberg—S. Michael’s—S. Martin’s—The Gnadenwald—Baumkirchen—Fritzens—External tokens of faith—The holy family at home—Frost phantoms—Hall; MÜnzthurm; Sandwirthszwanziger; salt-works; Speckbacher; Waldaufischer-Kapelle; S. Saviour’s; institutions of Hall—JohanniswÜrmchen; Bauernkrieg—Excursions round Hall; the Salzberg; the explorations of the ‘Fromme Ritter;’ grandeur of the salt-mines; salt-works; visit of Hofer and Speckbacher; the Salzthal—Absam; the dragons of Schloss Melans; Count Spaur’s ride to Babylon; combat with the toad—Max MÜller on legends—The image on the window-pane; the Gnadenmutter von Absam; Stainer the violin-maker—Mils—GrÜnegg—Schneeberg—The Gnadenwald—The Glockenhof; the Glockengiesser; his temptation, condemnation, and dying request—The Loreto-kirche—Heiligenkreuz—Taur—ThÜrl—The KaisersÄule—St. Romedius, St. Vigilius and the bear; the spectre priest—Rum, landslip 125

CHAPTER VI.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

SCHWATZ.

Schwatz, its situation; effigy of S. John Nepomuk; his example; the village frescoes; a hunt for a breakfast; the lessons of traveller’s fare; market; church; its size disproportioned to the population; the reason of this—Schwatz a Roman station; silver-mines; prosperity; importance; influence of miners of Saxony; reformation; riots; polemical disputes; decline; copper and iron works; other industries; misfortunes. History of the parish church; peculiar construction; the Knappenhochaltar; monuments; Hans Dreyling; altar-pieces; Michaels-kapelle; its legend; churchyard; its reliquary and holy oil; the Robler and the gossip’s corpse; penance and vision of the unmarried—Franciscan church—characteristics of the inns; singular use of the beds; guitar playing—Blessed Sacrament visits the sick—Freundsberg; the ruined castles of Tirol; Georg von Freundsberg; his prowess, strength, success; devotion of his men; sung of as a hero; his part in the siege of Rome, sudden death, and ruin of his house; tower; chapel—Weird-woman; her story; her legends; Oswald Milser of Seefeld; the bird-catcher of the Goaslahn; strange birds; chamois; the curse of the swallow—Hospital; chapel—Tobacco; factory girls at benediction—Pews in German churches 168

CHAPTER VII.

NORTH TIROL—UNTERINNTHAL—(RIGHT INN-BANK).

EXCURSIONS FROM SCHWATZ.

Falkenstein; exhausted mines; religious observances of miners; tokens of their craft—Buch—Margareth—Galzein—Kugelmoos—The Schwaderalpe—The Kellerspitze—Troi—Arzberg—Heiligenkreuzkapelle—Baierische-Rumpel—Pill—The Weerthal, Schloss Rettenberg; its spectre warder—The Kolsassthal—Wattens—Walchen—Mols—The Navisthal—Lizumthal; the Blue Lake—Volders—Voldererthal—Hanzenheim—Friedberg—Aschbach, why it is in the parish of Mils—Hippolitus Guarinoni, page to St. Charles, physician of the poor; religious zeal; church of St. Charles, Servitenkloster, the Stein des Gehorsams; analogous legend—Rinn; S. Anderle’s martyrdom; the Judenstein; lettered lilies—Aversion to Jews—Voldererbad—Ampass—Lans—The Patscherkofl—The Lansersee; the poor proprietor and the unjust noble—Sistrans; legend of its champion wrestler—Heiligenwasser 200

CHAPTER VIII.

NORTH TIROL—THE INNTHAL.

INNSBRUCK.

Our greeting; characteristics of the people; Innsbruck’s treatment of Kaiser Max; the Œstereichischer hof; our apartment; mountain view; character of the town; its history—Wilten; the minster; myth of Haymon the giant; his burial-place; parish church; Marienbild unter den vier SÄulen; relic of the thundering legion—First record of Innsbruck; chosen for seat of government; for residence by Friedl mit der leeren Tasche—Character of Tirolean rulers—the Goldene-Dachl-GebÄude—Sigismund the Monied; his reception of Christian I.; condition of Tirol in his time; his castles; abdication—Maximilian; builds the Burg; magnificence of his reign; legends of him; his decline—Charles Quint; cedes Tirol to Ferdinand I.; his wise administration; quiets popular agitation; Charles Quint’s visits to Innsbruck; attacked by Maurice, Elector of Saxony; carried into Carinthia in a litter; death of Maurice—Ferdinand I., the Hof-Kirche; Maximilian’s cenotaph; its bas-relief; statues; Mirakel-Bild des H. Anton; FÜrstenchor; abjuration of Queen Christina—Introduction of Jesuits; results—The ‘Fromme Siechin’—Ferdinand II.; his peaceful tastes; romantic attachment; Philippine Welser; mÉnage at Schloss Ambras; collections; curiosities; portraits; Philippine’s end 225

CHAPTER IX.

NORTH TIROL—THE INNTHAL.

INNSBRUCK (continued).

Wallenstein’s vow—Theophrastus Paracelsus; his mysterious dealings—The Tummelplatz—The Silberne Kapelle—Earthquake and dearth; their lessons—Ferdinand’s devotion to the Blessed Sacrament; analogous legend of Rudolf of Hapsburg—Ferdinand’s second marriage—The Capuchin Church—Maximilian the Deutschmeister; introduces the Servites—Paul Lederer—Maximilian’s hermitage—S. Lorenzo of Brindisi—Dreiheiligkeitskirche—Provisions against ravages of the Thirty Years’ War—The Siechenhaus—Leopold V.; dispensed from his episcopal jurisdiction and vows; Marries Claudia de’ Medici—Friedrich v. Tiefenbach—Festivities at Innsbruck—The Hofgarten—Kranach’s Madonna, MariÄhÜlfskirche built to receive it; translation to the Pfarr-kirche under Ferdinand Karl—Ferdinand Karl—Regency of Claudia de’ Medici; administrative ability; Italian influences—Sigismund Franz—Claudia Felicita—Charles of Lotharingia—War of succession; Bavarian inroad of 1703; the PontlatzerbrÜcke; Baierische-Rumpel—St. AnnensÄule—Joseph I.—Karl Philipp; builds the Land-haus and gymnasium, restores the Pfarrkirche; stucco and marble decorations; frescoes; preservation of Damian Asam—Strafarbeitshaus—Church of S. John Nepomuk; his popularity; canonisation—Maria Theresa; her partiality for Innsbruck; example; Prussian prisoners; marriage of Leopold; death of Francis I.; the Triumphpforte, the Damenstift—Joseph II.—Archduchess Maria Elizabeth—Pius VI. passes through Innsbruck—Leopold II.—Repeal of Josephinischen measures—Francis II.—Outbreak of the French revolution—-Das MÄdchen v. Spinges—The Auferstehungsfeier—Archduchess Maria Elizabeth—Gottesacker—Treaty of Pressburg—‘The Year Nine’—Andreas Hofer—Peace of SchÖnbrunn—Speckbacher; successes at Berg Isel; Hofer as SchÜtzen-Kommandant; his moderation, simplicity, subordination; his betrayal; last hours; firmness; execution—Restoration of Austrian rule—Hofer’s monument—Tirolese loyalty in 1848—The Ferdinandeum; its curiosities—Early editions of German authors—Paintings on cobweb—The Schiess-stand—Policy of the Viennese Government, constitutional opposition of Tirol—Population of Innsbruck 265

CHAPTER X.

NORTH TIROL—OBERINNTHAL.

INNSBRUCK TO ZIRL AND SCHARNITZ—INNSBRUCK TO THE LISENS-FERNER.

Excursions from Innsbruck—MÜhlau; new church; Baronin Sternbach—Judgment of Frau HÜtt—BÜchsenhausen—Weierburg—MariÄ-Brunn—Hottingen; monuments in the Friedhof—Schloss Lichtenthurm—The HÖttingerbild; the student’s Madonna; stalactites—Excursion to Zirl—Grossen Herr-Gott Strasse—Kranebitten—The Schwefelloch—The Hundskapelle—The Zirlerchristen—Gross Solstein—The Martinswand; danger of the Emperor Maximilian; Collin’s ballad; who led the Kaiser astray?—His importance in Europe; efforts to rescue him; the Blessed Sacrament visits him; unknown deliverer—MartinsbÜhl—Traditions of Kaiser Max—Zirl—Fragenstein; its hidden treasure—Leiten—Reit—Seefeld—The Heilige Blutskapelle—The Seekapelle—Scharnitz—Isarthal—Porta Klaudia—DirstenÖhl—The beggar-woman’s prayer; vision of the peasant of Dorf 310

Unter-Perfuss—Selrainthal—The Melach—Rothenbrunn—Fatscherthal—The Hohe Villerspitz—Sonnenberg—Magdalenen-BrÜndl—Character of the Selrainthalers—Ober-Perfuss; Peter Anich—Kematen—VÖls; the Blasienberg; S. Jodok—The Galwiese—The Schwarze-Kreuzkapelle; HÖlzl’s vow—Ferneck—Berg Isel—Noise of the rifle practice—Count v. Stachel—Natters and Mutters—Waidburg—The Nockspitze—GÖtzens—Schloss VÖllenberg; Oswald v. Wolkenstein—Birgitz—Axams—The Sendersthal 329

CHAPTER XI.

WÄLSCH-TIROL.

THE WÄLSCHEROLISCHE-ETSCHTHAL AND ITS TRIBUTARY VALLEYS.

Val di Lagarina—Borghetto—Ala—Roveredo—Surrounding castles—Dante at Lizzana—The Slavini di S. Marco—La Busa del Barbaz; its myths—Serravalle—Schloss Junk—The Madonna del Monte—Industries—Chapel of S. Columban—Trent, Festa of St. Vigilius; comparison between Trent and Rome; the Domkirche; its notabilia; Sta. Maria Maggiore; seat of the council; assenting crucifix; centenary celebration; legend of the organ-builder—Church of St. Peter; Chapel of S. Simonin; club; museum; Palazzi; Palazzo Zambelli, Teufelspalast; its legend; General Gallas—The Madonna alle Laste; view of Trent—Dos Trento—St. Ingenuin’s garden; St. Albuin’s apples—Lavis—French spoliation—Restitution—WÄlsch Michel 340

Tributary valleys—Val di Non; Annaunia—Rochetta Pass WÄlschmetz—Visiaun—Spaur Maggiore—Denno—Schloss Belasis—The Seidenbaum—Tobel Wild-see—Cles; Tavola Clesiana; Roman remains; the Schwarzen Felder—SS. Sisinus, Martyrius and Alexander—Val di Sole—Livo—Magras; Val di Rabbi; San Bernardo—MalÈ—Charles Quint’s visit—Pellizano—Val di Pejo—Cogolo—Corno de’ tre Signori—Val Vermiglio—Tonale; the witches’ sabbath there—Tregiovo—Cloz—U-Liebe Frau auf dem Gampen—Fondo—Sanzeno—Legend of the three brothers: mithraic bas-relief—The Tirolean Petrarch—St. Romediusthal; legend of St. Romedius; angelic consecration; conversion of the false penitents; extraordinary construction and arrangement of the building; romantic situation; fifteen centuries of uninterrupted veneration—Castel Thun; attachment of the people to the family; a Nonesade; aqueduct—Dombel; its Etruscan key; its import 358

The Avisiothal—Val di Cembra; its inaccessibility—Altrei; presentation of colours—Fleimserthal; Cavalese; its church a museum of Tirolese Art; local parliament; legend of its site; handsome new church—Fassathal—Moena—Analogous English and French traditions—Marriage customs of the valley—The Feuriger VerrÄther—Vigo—The Marmolata; its legends—St. Ulrich 374

CHAPTER XII.

WÄLSCH-TIROL.

VAL SUGANA—GIUDICARIA—FOLKLORE.

Val Sugana—Baselga—The Madonna di PinÈ; legend of the Madonna di Caravaggio—Pergine; miners; the Canoppa—The Schloss—Marriage customs of the valley—Lake Caldonazzo—St. Hermes at Calzeranica—Bosentino—Nossa signora del Feles—The sleeper of Valle del Orco—Caldonazzo—Lafraun; legend of the disunited brothers—Borgo, the Italian Meran—Franciscan convent; Castel Telvana; dangers of a carneval procession; Count Welsburg’s vow—Gallant border defences—Stalactite caves of Costalta—Sette Comuni—Castelalto—Strigno—Castelrotto—Cima d’Asta—Quarazza garnet quarry—Ivano—Grigno; Legend of St. Udalric—Castel Tesino—Canal San Bovo to Primiero—Tale of Virginia Loss; humble heroism—Le Tezze; modern heroes 382

Judicarien; its divisions—Castel Madruzz; Cardinal Karl Madruzz; his dispensation; its conditions—Abraham’s Garden—Sta. Massenza; Bishop’s Summer Palace—Loreto-kapelle—The Rendenathal; St. Vigilius; his zeal; early admission to the episcopate; missionary labours; builds churches; overthrows idols; his stoning; his burial; the rock cloven for his body to pass; the Acqua della Vela; the bread of Mortaso—S. Zulian; his legend; his penitence—Caresolo; its frescoes; another memorial of Charles Quint; his estimation of Jews—New churches—Legends of Condino and Campiglio—Riva on the Garda-see; its churches; its olive branches—The Altissimo di Nago; view from S. Giacomo; optical illusion—Brentonico—The Ponte delle Streghe—Mori; tobacco cultivation 400

Character of WÄlsch-Tirol folklore—Orco-Sagen; his transformations in many lands; transliterations of his name in Tirol—The Salvan and Gannes; perhaps Etruscan genii—Salvanel; Bedelmon; Salvadegh—The Beatrik, identified with Dietrich von Bern—The Angane—What came of marrying an Angana—The focarelli of Lunigiana—The FilÒ—Froberte—Donna Berta dal nas longh—The discriminating Salvan—The Angana’s ring; tales of the Three Wishes and the Faithful Beasts; legend of the Drei Feyen of Thal Vent—Legend of St. KÜmmerniss; her effigy in Cadore; the prevailing minstrel—TurlulÙ—Remnants of Etruscan language—‘Storielle da rider’—The bear-hunters—The horrible snail—How to make a church tower grow—Social customs perhaps derived from Etruscan; similar to those of Lombardy and Lunigians—All Souls’ Day; feast of Sta. Lucia; Christmas; St. Anthony’s Day; Carneval; Giovedi de’ Gnocchi; St. Urban—Popular sayings about thunder, crickets, brambles, cockchafers, swallows, scorpions—Astronomical riddles 408