It is expected that all the pruning is finished. If not, get all expeditiously done, according to directions given in the preceding months, likewise all digging, and that which was dug in the autumn, point over, or half dig, that all may have a neat appearance. This must not be done when the ground is too much imbibed with moisture, as that would harden the soil. Break it well with the spade, leaving it one or two days before the surface is raked smooth, that all may be ready to receive the seeds or plants that are intended to be sown or planted. As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants or shrubs that have been protected; preserving carefully such articles as will answer the same purpose next year. The frost disappears generally from the middle to the end of this month. Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been hurt by the frost. The LagerstrÆmias will flower in greater perfection if they are cut closely; that is, where the wood of last year is cut to within a few eyes of the wood of the previous year, at the same time having regard to the shape that the plant is required to take. Cut off the injured part of any of the evergreens that have had their foliage much injured by the severity of winter, leaving the part that is green, which is essential to the support of these kinds of plants.

Such work as can be done in this month, should not be delayed, such as hoeing, digging, raking, and clearing away all decayed leaves, and litter of every description that have been brought or blown in the garden, during autumn or winter.

BOX EDGINGS

May be planted any time this month, or beginning of next, which in most seasons will be preferable. We will give a few simple directions how to accomplish the work. In the first place, dig over the ground deeply where the edging is intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, and keeping it to a proper height, viz. about one inch higher than the side of the walk; but the taste of the operator will best decide according to the situation. Rake the surface even, and tread it down with the feet, or beat it with the spade. Where it gives most, continue to add, keeping the surface at the desired height. If the edging is to be in a direct line, either on a level or inclined plane, you may be correctly and simply regulated by making the desired level at each end of the line. Take three rods about four feet long each, having a piece of one foot to cross at one end, two of these pieces painted black, the other white. Have a black one at each end of the line on the level, take the white one for the centre, going along the line, and about every twenty feet, level a spot to the exact height, which will be seen by looking over the top of the rods from one end. Having found the level, drive in a peg to it, so that no mistake may occur; beat and level between them, leaving a smooth surface. This being done, strain the line, and with the spade proceed to cut out the trench perpendicularly on the side next the walk, six, eight, ten, or twelve inches deep, according to the length of the plants. Afterwards take the plants, and cut the tops even, with the knife or shears, at the same time shortening the roots. Then with the left hand next the line, plant forward, keeping the tops of the plants level, and from one to two inches above ground, keeping the plants close according to the required thickness. Put in the earth as you proceed, and tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and with the spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very dry, the box will be the better of a few waterings. Sometimes boxwood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives satisfaction; not growing equally.

TENDER ANNUALS.

When it is wished to have any of these flower early, if they were not sown as directed last month, on a hotbed, let it be done early in this. Those that were sown and now growing freely, must have plenty of air. In fine days the sashes may be taken off a few hours about mid-day; and where the plants are too thick, thin them out a few inches apart, that the air may circulate amongst them. Have another bed ready to transplant them into about the end of this or beginning of next month. When transplanted, sprinkle them with water, and shade them with mats from the sun, one or two days. By this treatment they will be much stronger for planting into the borders, about the first of May. For the different kinds, see list.

HARDY ANNUALS

May be sown in the borders about the end of the month, when the ground is prepared, and the weather fine, but avoid it at all times if the earth will not pulverise properly. The neatest and most expeditious method is to take a rod about one foot long, and one inch in diameter, rounding at the end, with which end draw a circle of nine inches diameter, from one inch to one eighth of an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds. Many very small seeds will grow best if sown on the surface of fine mould. When sown, cover in with the back of the rake, placing a small twig, or a tally with the name, in the centre of the circle, to prevent mistakes, either in sowing, planting, or hoeing. When they come above ground, the first moist day should be taken to pull up such as are too crowded. Annuals are generally too delicate to bear transplanting, therefore they ought always to be sown where they are intended to remain. A few kinds do best with removing, such as Balsam, Mary-gold, China Aster, Stockgilly, and several others of a free growing, strong-wooded nature. Annuals are such plants as grow from seed, flower, and perfect their productions, and then die, within one year. For hardy sorts, see list. Sow in rows or fancy spots the varieties of sweet pea.

BIENNIALS

Are such as are of two years' duration. Being sown this year they flower, seed, or fruit next year, and soon after decay. The seeds should be sown about the end of this or beginning of next month, either in the spot where they are intended to remain, or in a compartment by themselves, regularly marked, and transplanted when convenient. When they appear above ground, thin them out distinctly, that when they are to be removed, a little earth may adhere to them; and if put where they are to stand, leave only three plants.

PERENNIALS.

In every Flower-garden there ought to be a good selection of these plants. They are lasting ornaments, and when judiciously selected, will give yearly gratification. In making a choice, a view should be had to have those that flower abundantly, are of free growth, beauty, and continuation of flower. It would go beyond our limits, to give an extensive description of any, but a few remarks on some of the finest, with their names, are indispensable.

AdÒnis vernÁlis, is a fine border flower, and will grow in any common soil; flowers large, yellow rayed, having in the rays about twelve petals; leaves much divided, bloom in April and May.

AnemÓne, Wind-flower. Several fine species, with flowers from one to three inches in diameter. A. HallÈri, blue; A. pulsatÌlla, blue pasque flower; A. alpÌna, large white. These are fine plants, and are now given to a genus called PulsatÌlla. A. palmÀta flÒre-plÈno, yellow; A. stellÀta versÍcolor, various coloured; A. pavonÌna flÒre-plÈno, scarlet; A. narcissiflÒra, white. Any of these are very desirable.

AntirrhÌnums, Snap-dragon. All the varieties of A. mÀjus are esteemed in the flower borders; the pure white and bright red are very showy. A few of the species, A. mÓlle and A. sÍculum, where there is variety required, deserve a situation. The flowers are all large, and similar to the snout of an animal.

AsclÈpias. The finest of this genus are native plants, and are highly esteemed in Europe, but frequently rejected with us, because "they are wild plants." A. tuberÒsa has beautiful orange flowers, and delight in dry situations. A. rÙbra, A. nÍvea, A. purpurÁscens; and A. incarnÀta, are the finest of the family. It is best to plant A. tuberÒsa in October.

AconÍtums, Wolfs'-bane, one hundred and twenty-eight distinct species, with several varieties. Many of them are of consequence and beauty; the flower stems rise from one and a half to six feet upright, and strong, furnished with many palmate and digitate leaves, terminated by spikes of blue, yellow, or white flowers, similar to a hood; hence the name of Monk's Hood is often applied to them. They are scarce in collections, but in a few years we have no doubt but many of them will be plentiful. The finest species are A. speciÒsum, A. anthÒra, A. neÚrbergensis, A. amÆnum, A. napÉllus, A. venÚstum, A. zoÓctonum, A. pyramidÀle, A. lycÓctonum, A. albÙm, and A. versÍcolor. They flower from May to September, and will grow in any common garden soil. The roots of A. napÉllus are like small turnips, and are said to be poisonous.

CÁltha palÚstris flÒre-plÈno is a good border plant, delights in moist situations, has large cordate, crenated leaves; flowers double yellow; blooming from April till June; and is a desirable plant.

BÉllis perÉnnis hortÉnsis, Daisy. We might almost say with another, "every one knows the Daisy." It is named from being pretty, and is perfectly hardy, though generally kept under cover. They delight to have a shaded situation during summer, to protect them from the sun, which, as it were, scorches the roots. There are many double varieties in the gardens, which flower early. The one called Crown, or Carnation Daisy, is twice the size of the common varieties, and has white and red petals alternately, and very double. Loamy soil, inclined to moisture, is best adapted to their growth.

CampÁnulas. This genus affords many very ornamental plants for the Flower-garden and Shrubbery, and they flower superbly during the summer, agreeing better with our climate than with that of Europe. Several have two successions of flowers, C. persicifÒlia Álba plÈna; C. persicifÒlia cÆrÙlea plÈno; C. urticifÒlia, white. Of this last there is also a double variety. C. speciÒsa; C. glomerata; C. versÍcolor; with several others, are worthy of a situation in every garden. Their roots are strong, fleshy, and fibrous. They are easy of culture, and will retain their situation in the severest of our winters. C. grandiflÒra is now WahlenbÉrgia grandiflÒra. It has fine blue large flowers; the flower stems are slender, and should be supported as soon as they grow.

CheirÁnthus ChÉiri vulgÀris is the common garden Wall-flower. There are about ten varieties of it, all admired for their various colours and agreeable odour. The common variety survives the mildest of our winters. The most esteemed variety is HÆmÁnthus, Double bloody. They should all be protected by a frame. C. mutÁbilis is a beautiful species; it has many shades of colour from lilac to dark purple. The flowers are on extending racemose spikes; blooming from April to June; it requires a light rich soil; is a half shrubby evergreen plant.

ChelÒnes. This genus belongs entirely to this continent, and possesses many fine species. It is a matter of astonishment that they are not more cultivated and sought for in our collections. C. glÁbra; C. oblÍqua; C. barbÀta; C. atropurpÙrea; C. pulchÉlla; C. venÚsta; and C. speciÒsa; are all handsome, and flower from May to September; corolla large, ringent; ventricose flowers in spikes or panicles.

ChrysÁnthemums. There are few of this genus of any consequence as herbaceous plants, except the varieties of C. sinÉnse, of which there are about fifty, all desirable; but in small gardens, where there is a deficiency in room, the following are select in colour and quality: TubulÒsum Álbum, quilled white; supÉrbum, superb white; dÍscolor, large lilac; fÚlvum, Spanish brown; atropurpÙreum, early crimson; involÙtum, curled lilac; fasciculÀtum, superb cluster yellow; serotÌnum, late pale purple; papyrÀceum, paper white; WaratÁh, yellow Waratah; versÍcolor, two-coloured red; stellÀtum, starry purple; verecÚndum, early blush; and mutÁbile, changeable pale buff. To grow these in perfection, they require rich light soil; and about the end of this month the roots should be lifted, divided, and planted into fresh soil, either by giving them a new situation, or changing the earth they were in. Two or three stems together are quite sufficient. The flowers, by the above treatment, will be much larger, more double, and finer in colour; where they are wanted to grow low and bushy, top them in June, but not later than the first of July. Where the soil is rich, and the plant having only one stem, by topping it, makes a beautiful bush. They are in flower from the first of October until severe frost; thus beautifying our gardens at a season when they would be destitute of one single attraction. If the season is dry, to water them with liquid manure will add to their vigour. They are all natives of China, and greatly esteemed by the Chinese, who only allow a few blooms to come out on the top of each stem, thereby having the flowers much finer.

ClÉmatis, Virgin's-bower. A few species are good herbaceous plants, of upright growth, and blue flowers, C. integrifÒlia; C. angustifÒlia; and C. erÉcta; they grow best in light soil.

CoreÓpsis, chiefly native plants, and free-flowering; colour principally yellow; flowers rayed. C. tenuifÒlia, C. verticillÁta, C. dÍscolor, and C. trÍpteris, are the finest of the genus, and will grow in any common garden soil.

DelphÍnums. There are some showy border flowers of these, of strong growth. The leaves are much divided; the flowers in terminale spikes; colour blue, purple, red, white and yellow, with various shades. D. grandiflÒrum, with its varieties, are the best of the genus. D. intermÈdium, and its varieties, D. elÁtum, Bee Larkspur, from the ringent part of the flower being very like a bee, and D. montÁnum, are good varieties, and easily cultivated. When the plants become large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh soil. They are in bloom from May to September.

DiÁnthus. Some of the species of this genus are the most prominent of the Flower-garden, not only for their beauty, but also their fragrance, which is peculiarly grateful, especially in the well known and celebrated pink and carnation, with the Sweet-william, which was esteemed, in the days of old, "for its beauty to deck up the bosoms of the beautiful, and garlands and crowns for pleasure." The finest species are D. barbÀtus, and D. barbÀtus plÈno, Sweet-william; D. discolor D. chinÈnsis; D. alpÍnus, D. supÉrbus; D. caryophyllus, from which have originated the Picotee and the Carnation; D. plumÀrius, from which originated the Double Pink; D. frÀgrans and D. supÉrbus. Several of these, although they will stand the severest cold, have to be protected in frames during winter, to have them in the perfection of beauty. For the character of a Pink and Carnation, see May.

DictÁmnus. Two species of this genus, D. fraxinÉlla and D. Álbus, have been cultivated and esteemed upwards of two hundred and forty years. A plant of the first of these species, when gently rubbed, emits an odour like that of lemon-peel; and when bruised emits a balsamic scent, which is strongest in the pedicles of the flowers. They have glands of a rusty colour, that exude a viscid juice, or resin, which exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may be seen to take fire. Its flowers are red, those of the other white, in loose terminale spikes; the flower has five petals, clawed and unequal, with glandular dots; in bloom from May to July; delights in sandy loam.

DodecÀtheon. This is a native genus, and commonly called American cowslip. The generic term, a name of the Romans, signifying twelve gods or divinities, is applied with great absurdity to a plant, a native of a world the Romans never saw nor had any idea of, neither resembling, in any particular, the poetical fancy of their writers. The most admired species is D. mÈdia; the flowers are in umbels, on a pedicle, from six to twelve inches high; the corolla is rotata reflexa, colour light purple, bottom of petals lake and yellow; blooming in May. The white variety is very much esteemed, and surpasses the preceding. The ground is pure white, the bottom of the petals the same as the other. There is also a spotted variety found on the banks of the Missouri. They delight in brown loam, a half shady situation, inclining to moisture. The foliage soon decays after flowering.

DigitÀlis, Fox-glove, about forty species of annuals and herbaceous plants. A few are cultivated in the flower borders, and are very showy. These are D. leucophÆa, D. ferrugÍnea, D. ochroleÙca, large yellow; and D. purpurÁscens; and are good species. D. purpÚrea and D. Álba, are very conspicuous biennials; the flowers are solitary, and in long spikes; the corolla of D. purpÚrea is campanulate, ventricose, and ringent; the interior is spotted, and is considered the finest of the genus. Delights in poor soil, with a little shade.

EupatÓriums. These generally are native plants, not worthy of notice here, except for two species. E. coelestÍnum has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, colour fine light blue, blooming from September to November, desirable for its beauty at that season. E. aromÀticum may be cultivated for its spicy odour; flowers white, in loose terminale panicles; blooming from August to October. Either of them will grow in common soil.

GentiÁnas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower in great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated; colour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some white; flowers in whorls, terminale, or solitary. They grow best in a light rich soil. G. lÚtea, G. purpÚrea, G. septÉmfida. G. acaÚlis is a pretty dwarf growing species, and often used as edgings in flower compartments; the flower dark and light blue; interior of the corolla spotted; has a succession of flower from April to June. We have no doubt of it succeeding in our gardens, but not being plentiful, it has not been perfectly tried. A few years will exhibit it in abundance. G. imbricÀta and G. confÉrta. They are all fine exotics, but many of them may give place to our native species, such as G. CatesbÆÍ; G. ochroleÚca; G. incarnÀta; with several others, and G. crinÀta, which is a biennial, and finely fringed; colour light blue.

GÈum. There are only two species that are worth cultivation, viz. G. quÉllyon, once G. coccÍneum; and G. hybridum. G. urbÀnum is sometimes cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed, sweeten the breath. They are all of easy culture. G. quÉllyon flowers from May to October, and is a very desirable small plant for the borders, and much esteemed in Europe.

HemerocÁllis, Day Lily; two species, H. fÚlva and H. gramÍnea, flower well, and are remarkable among the border flowers for their large yellow or copper coloured corollas, some of them about six inches diameter; bloom from May to July, and will grow in almost any soil. There is a plant known in our gardens as H. cÆrÙlea, which is FÚnkia cÆrÙlea, and has a campanulate corolla, with a cylindrical tube; flowers in spikes; leaves ovate, accuminate.

HibÍscus. There are several herbaceous species very showy and handsome, H. palÚstris; H. rÒseus; H. militÀris; H. speciÒsus; H. grandiflÒrus; and H. pÚngens. They grow best in moist situations, and where these are not to be had, give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy soil enriched with decayed leaves. The flowers are about six inches in diameter, flowering up the stem, either solitary or in small bunches. H. speciÒsus is the most splendid, and deserves a situation in every garden. The roots in winter ought to be covered by litter, tan, or saw dust; but a better method is to lift them, and put them in the cellar, covered with dry earth, and kept from the frost. All the above mentioned species are improved by being protected during winter.

Iris, Flower-de-luce, has many fine species of various shades and colours, I. subiflÒra, I. nepalÉnsis, I. PallÀsii, I. pÁllida, I. cristÀta, I. arenÀria, I. furcÀta, I. germÁnica, I. florentÌna, I. vÉrna, and I. susiÀna. The last is the finest of the herbaceous species; the flowers are striped, blue, brown, and spotted; but we are not certain if it will stand the severity of our winters. The roots of I. florentÌna is the orrice root of the druggists. They are all of easy culture in any loamy soil inclining to moisture. The bulbous species will be treated of in September or October. Corolla six-petaled, three erect, and three reclined alternately; proceeding from spathes or sheaths with flowers in succession.

LÌatris is a genus of native plants, containing several fine species, L. squarrÒsa, large purple heads of beautiful flowers; L. Élegans; L. paniculÀta. L. macrÓstachya, now L. spicÀta, is a fine large growing species. They have syngenesious purple flowers in long close spikes, differing from other spiked flowering genera by blooming first at the extremity. They grow best in strong heavy soil.

Lychnis. Three species are very desirable in the flower borders. L. chalcedÓnica has bright scarlet crowned flowers; the double scarlet variety is splendid. There is also a double white variety, L. fÚlgens and L. flÓs-jÒvis. They ought to be frequently lifted, and planted afresh, or they will dwindle to nothing. The best time is when they begin to grow. There is a plant known in our collections as Lychnis flÓs-cucÙla, which is now AgrostÉma flÓs-cucÙla; it is a fine and showy border plant with double red flowers. They delight in a light sandy rich soil.

Lythrums. A few species flower well, and have small pink blossoms in great profusion, L. alÀtum, L. virgÀtum, L. diffÙsum, and L. lanceolÀtum. They will grow in any common garden soil if not too much shaded; and flower from June to September.

MimÙlus, Monkey-flower. A few species may be cultivated. They will grow in any soil or situation. M. lÙteus and M. rivulÀris are the best. M. moschÀtus has a very strong musk scent, to many agreeable. We think it will prove hardy. The two former have large gaping flowers, of a gold yellow, and beautifully spotted with purple in the interior.

MonÁrdas, a fine native genus and showy. The foliage of several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint. M. dÍdyma has long scarlet ringent flowers, in headed whorls; M. kalmiana, flowers very long, and a beautiful crimson, with fragrant leaves. M. Russelliana has red and white flowers; curious and handsome. M. punctata has yellow and red flowers; they grow in any common soil.

MathÍola, is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of them will survive severe winters; yet many of them are indispensable in the Flower-garden. M. simplicicÁulis, Brompton-stock, and its varieties; with M. incÀna, Queen-stock, and its varieties, require the protection of a good frame in winter, and about the end of this month, or beginning of next, plant them in good light rich soil to flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with frequent supplies of water. M. Ánnua has about sixteen varieties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed, and are all annuals. They ought to be sown on a gentle hot-bed about the first of this month, and carefully pricked out so as they may be ready to transplant about the end of April or the first of May. Plant them in light rich soil, and they will flower profusely through the season; if it is very dry, they must be watered to keep them growing. The scarlet, white, and purple varieties are the finest; but there are many intermediate sorts all handsome. M. glÀbra is the Wall-flower leaved stock, and requires the same treatment as the two former. There are about eight varieties of this, all various in colour. In planting any of these into the open ground, choose cloudy weather, except they have been in pots; in such case, plant at any time in beds, keeping each kind separate.

ŒnothÈras. The most of them are indigenous, and in Europe they afford a continual ornament to the Flower-garden from April to November, but in our gardens they are entirely neglected. By rejecting these and many others, our Flower-gardens are deprived both of much beauty and interest they might easily possess. These plants delight in light rich soil. Œ. odorÀta, sweet scented; Œ. macrocÁrpa; Œ. mÈdia; Œ. latiflÒra; Œ. FrazÈri; Œ. speciÒsa; and Œ. pÁllida; are all fine native herbaceous plants, mostly with large yellow four-petaled corollas; in bloom from April to September. There are several of them beautiful annual and biennial plants. For the finest, see list.

PhlÓx, another American genus, and one of the most handsome in cultivation. It consists of elegant border flowers, valuable for flowering early, and more so for blossoming late in autumn. While the majority of plants blooming late in the season are generally syngenesious, with yellow flowers, these delight us with their lively colours of purple, red, and white. A collection of them properly attended to, would of themselves constitute a beautiful flower garden. It will be difficult to state which are the finest, but the following are select varieties: P. paniculÀta; P. acuminÀta; P. intermÈdia; P. odorÀta; P. pyramidÀlis; with pyramidÀlis Álba, which is splendid; P. suavÈolens; P. reflÉxa; P. stolonÍfera; P. pilÒsa; P. divaricÀta; P. nivÀlis; and P. subulÀta. In the spring of 1831, an eminent British collector[A] exclaimed, on seeing a patch of P. subulÀta in one of the pine barrens of New Jersey, "The beauty of that alone is worth coming to America to see, it is so splendid." Most of the species delight in a rich light sandy loam. When the plants become large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh ground.

PrÍmulas, Primrose. To this genus belong the celebrated Cowslip, Oxlip, Primrose, and the esteemed AurÍcula. The double varieties of Primrose have originated from P. vulgÀris. These are such as carry their flowers on separate pedicles, rising from the root on a small stem. The double varieties are desirable for their beauty, but require the protection of a frame during winter. They are in colour red, white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. P. elÀtior is the Oxlip, from which all the PolyÁnthuses have been grown. They are in variety innumerable, and are those whose flowers are in umbels, on a scape or flower-stalk, rising from three to nine inches. The rules for judging of their merits are wholly artificial, agreed on from time to time by Florists. The one that is the leading beauty this year would in a few years be far in the rear. The principal character is that the corolla is not notched or fringed; the colours pure and distinct, not running into one another; the tube small; the eye round, and a little prominent. Being surrounded with white, and the ground purple, is a fine character. P. aurÍcula. From this the highly esteemed varieties have originated. The cultivated aurÍcula has many admirers, both for its exquisite beauty and fragrance. For the criterion of a fine flower see May. There are several other species worthy of a situation, such as P. cortusoÍdes, P. dentiflÒra, P. suavÈolens, P. decÒra, with P. scÓtica and P. farinÒsa, both small neat species. A shady situation agrees best with them; and they require loamy soil, free from any kind of manure, except it be fully decomposed. The leaves of P. vÈris are recommended for feeding silk worms.

PotentÍllas. We mention this genus here as affording several free flowering dwarf plants; not as being certain that any of the most desired species will withstand our winters, being natives of Nepaul; but, from the character of the plant, we think that they are adapted to bear severe cold. They are similar to the strawberry in habit and appearance. P. nepalÉnsis, or formÒsa, has rose-coloured flowers; P. atropurpÙrea; P. RusselliÀna, scarlet; P. HopwoodiÀna, rose and scarlet; and P. splÉndens, yellow, with superb leaves. These are the finest of the genus, and flower from May to September. It will be well to protect them in a frame with the Carnations; they delight in light soil.

SaponÀria officinÀlis, and S. O. plÈna, are fine free-flowering dwarf plants; the colour is pink in both double and single varieties. The roots run under ground, and care should be taken to keep them within bounds: they flower from June till October. S. cÆspitÒsa is a neat growing species of a rose colour. They will grow in any soil.

SilÈne. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but the herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscÓsa and S. viscÓsa flÒre plÈna, are frequently cultivated for their beauty; they will grow well if not too much shaded.

SaxÍfraga, above one hundred species. Many of them are beautiful plants for rock-work. They are regardless of cold, but will not generally withstand much moisture. A few of them are highly deserving a situation in any garden. S. hirsÙtum, and S. crassifÒlia, are used in some countries for tanning. S. granulÀta multiplÉx has fine double-white flowers, and is desirable. S. umbrÒsa, London-pride, makes a beautiful edging for a flower border; the flowers are small, but on close examination its colours are unrivalled. It is vulgarly called, "none so pretty." S. sarmentÒsa is kept in the Green-house, but is perfectly hardy, and makes a fine plant in a shaded situation. We have no doubt but it would make a good fancy edging. S. pulchÉlla, straw coloured, and S. pyramidÀlis; these are all easily cultivated; and flower in spikes from May to July.

SpirÆas. A few species are showy plants, and continue flowering from May to September. S. ulmÀria mÚltiplex, Meadow-sweet, has sweet scented white flowers, in long dense spikes. S. FilipÉndula mÚltiplex, Drop-wort, double white. S. lobÀta is a native, and has fine rose coloured flowers, in June and July; these are the finest of the herbaceous species, and will grow in any common garden soil.

StÁtice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herbaceous plants, only a few of them are common in collections. The finest of them are scarce, and said to be "bad to cultivate." S. vulgÀris, once ArmÈria vulgÀris, is the most valuable plant for an edging, next to box, that the Flower-garden is possessed of, and does extremely well in our climate, flowering in great profusion from May to July. When done flowering, the stems should be cut off. The foliage is an agreeable evergreen; the plant increases rapidly, and in a few years may be planted to a great extent. S. speciÒsa has red flowers, crowded in spreading panicles. S. tatÀrica has also very showy flowers, and is now given to the genus TaxÀnthema. S. latifÒlia and S. maritÌma are the finest. T. latifÒlia and T. conspÍcua deserve attention. They should be lifted every alternate year, and sunk deeper into the soil, because they incline to grow out, and are sometimes during summer killed by the drought. Hence they are said to be "bad to cultivate."

TrÓllius europÆus, and T. asiÀticus, are fine border plants, with large yellow semi-double flowers; the petals are much cupped, which causes the flowers to have a globular appearance. They are easily grown in any loamy soil, and flower from May to July. Few flowers have the curious globular character which these have.

VerÓnica, Speed-well. This genus consists of about one hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, besides several varieties. The flowers are in long close spikes, either white, flesh coloured, or blue; they are generally of the latter colour. Above sixty species are equally fine, and being generally of the same character, the Catalogue at the end of this work will contain the best selection that we can make. Very few of them are in the collections of the country, although they are very showy, and flower from June to August. They will grow in any soil, but will not flourish where they are much shaded. V. officinÀlis has been used in Germany and Sweden as a substitute for tea. Some prefer V. chamÆdrys for the same purpose.

ValerÌanas. Several species are showy border plants, with small flowers in large close flattened panicles. V. dioÍca is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in separate flowers, situated on different plants; the flowers are of a blush colour, and the roots when planted must be protected from the cats, for they are delighted with them, and scrape them up. V. phÙ, a large growing species with white flowers; and V. rÙbra, with its varieties, are the finest of the genus. They are now given to CentrÀnthus. They are all of easy culture in common garden earth, but preferring moist shady situations. In flower from May to September.

VÌola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species, of low pretty plants, of great diversity of colour and foliage. Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our gardens. They mostly delight in sandy loam, and a little shade. A few of the species grow in moist situations. The most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odorÀta purpÚrea plÈna, double purple, with V. odorÀta Àlba plÈna, double white. They flower very early, and make good edgings where they are kept in order; flowering profusely from April to June, and flowering again in autumn.

YÚcca, Adam's-needle. This is a very showy and ornamental genus; their character forming a picturesque contrast in the Flower-garden; foliage long, narrow, lanceolate, and stiff; with white companulate flowers, about two inches in diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet long, arising from the centre of the plant, containing frequently from two to four hundred florets. They are principally native plants. Y. strÍcta is the freest flowerer. Y. supÉrba; Y. aloifÒlia; Y. angustifÒlia, Y. acuminÀta, Y. serrulÀta, and Y. filamentÒsa, are all fine species, and will grow in any common soil. When in flower, if protected from the sun by an awning, they will be of considerable duration. There are variegated varieties of StrÍcta, AloifÒlia, and SerrulÀta, which look very handsome in foliage, but are at present very rare, and it will be a number of years before they are plentiful. There ought at least to be one specimen of some of the free-flowering species in every garden.

Having given the names and characters of a few herbaceous plants, all or most of them easily obtained, many of them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with transplanting at this season of the year; for several others, such as PÆÒnias, or any other strong fibrous or bulbous sorts, see September and October. Where they are in pots, they can be planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the ball of earth is not broken. But where they are only to be removed, the best time is just as vegetation commences. That herbaceous plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, they must not be allowed to get into large stools; but as soon as they are above one foot in diameter, they should be divided.

Very frequently those who perform this operation, take the spade, and cut a piece off all round, which to a degree improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice. It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when allowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks. Colour should be diversified through the garden as much as practicable, and the highest growing sorts planted farthest from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times avoid crowding the plants together.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

About the middle of this month, let the covering of tan, saw-dust, or decayed leaves, be cleared from the beds of such as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine; then dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake, clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves of Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so much, that the force of growth breaks the foliage: if there are any appearance of this at any time, they should be set right with the hand. In early seasons these roots will be far advanced, and perhaps one night of frost unexpectedly might materially injure them. When there is any suspicion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the beds, so that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few minutes be placed over them, to ward off danger. Protect the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them small neat rods for support, as they grow up. If the rods and tyings are painted green, the effect will be improved. These directions equally apply to Narcissus, Jonquils, Iris, and all Holland bulbs.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, &c.

Which have been protected by frames through the winter, must have at all favourable opportunities plenty of air admitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the surface of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first of the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots, should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are in five inch pots may be put into eight inch. Give a gentle watering after repotting. Pinks do not require the pots so large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where the extremity of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with any other decayed leaves: the pots must be well drained with shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, otherwise they will be weak in growth.

Primroses require only a little fresh earth on the top of the pots. Daisies may be planted out in shady situations; the sun destroys them during summer if exposed.

AURICULAS.

These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a great degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be from want of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our attention, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather inclined to think that those who have them do not give them the treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom. They should now have the surface earth taken off about half an inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to put out fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and greatly increase their growth. The frame in which they are placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong for them; and about the end of the month turn it to the north. The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which will partially shade them from the sun, that being their delight. Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow, and never water them over the foliage previous to flowering, as water injures that fine mealy-like substance found on many of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty. Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. To have them flower strongly, only one flower stem should be allowed to grow. The first one that shows is generally the best. At all events leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end. Never keep the sash off during night, lest it should rain before morning.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

The frames must have plenty of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes or boards should be taken entirely off every mild day, and in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew; stir up the earth amongst them, breaking it fine, making all neat. They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to grow.

ROSES.

This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather opens, and the ground in a proper state. The earlier in the month they flower the more perfect they will be. Never delay planting when there is an opportunity; for if delayed until the leaves are expanding, the bloom will be much weakened, and the probability is there will be no flowers, and the plants meet with a premature death. It has been said, "there is a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even to the middle of May; for the flowering of them may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of these delightful shrubs continue for a much longer period." One moment's reflection will convince us, that nature, while in her own element, will not be retarded, suppose there was no danger of instantaneous death to the plants. The artificial means that might be judiciously adopted, with which we are acquainted, to keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to lift them as soon in spring as is practicable, put them in boxes of earth, and then place them in the driest part of an icehouse until the desired time of planting, which may be delayed as long as the required time of flowering. This will be found a true method of retarding the flowering of roses especially, and not going counter to the rules and principles of nature. There are many beautiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation, the names of the finest of which we will give in the Catalogue, but perhaps it may be proper to mention here a few of the most particular sorts. The finest unquestionably when in bloom, is the Moss and its varieties, but the flowering is of so limited duration, that it is in a great degree surpassed by others. There is said to be a striped variety of the Moss Rose, but we do not credit it. The Blush Moss, Clinton White Moss, and Mottled Moss, at present certainly are the most superb of that kind. Lee's Crimson Perpetual is a magnificent rose, and flowers in profusion from June to October. This is considered, and justly too, the finest of all the garden roses; its fragrance is exquisite, and the plant highly valued. There is a striped Unique Rose, and a Rosa tricolor, which are much thought of. We have mentioned these as the finest we have seen, but amongst two thousand cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many of equal beauty. Of RÓsa spinosÍssima there are above three hundred varieties; R. gÀllica; two hundred; R. centifÒlia, one hundred and fifty; R. damascÈne, above one hundred; R. Álba, fifty; R. rubiginÓsa, thirty; and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In several individual collections of Europe, there are cultivated above fifteen hundred species, sub-species, and varieties.

When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscriminately amongst other shrubs, which prevents them having the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped. They vary in size in different sorts from one to ten feet. When planted in the latter method, they should be assimilated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the greatest variation of flower; or if planted in many small patches, giving each a distinct colour, which has a picturesque effect. An other desirable and fanciful method, is to plant them in figures, giving them edgings of wire, willow, or any other substitute, in imitation of basket work, which is called "baskets of roses;" the ground enclosed in the basket margin to be made convex, which will present a greater surface to the eye; the strong shoots to be layered, or kept down by pegs into the ground, having the points of the shoots only to appear above the soil, which should be covered with moss. With this treatment, in a few years the whole surface of the basket will be covered with rose buds and leaves, of one or various sorts. If two or three of the larger growing sorts are taken, such as Moss or Provins, they may be trained so as to cover a surface of several square yards. One of these covered with Lee's Crimson Perpetual Rose, would be one of the greatest ornaments of the Flower-garden.

A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is, to grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong growing kinds at different heights from the ground, according to taste, and the purposes intended. They will form in a few years handsome round heads, which will flower more freely than by layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are particularly desirable amongst low shrubs. When planted, they should be well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from destroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise shorten the young shoots; breaking the earth well about their roots when planting. This has been an esteemed shrub among all civilized nations. The flowers are double, semi-double, and single; the colours are pink, red, purple, white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and mixture; the odour universally grateful. This plant is cultivated in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the loftiest prince, and by commercial gardeners in Europe extensively, for distilling rose water, and making the essential oil of roses. They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require plenty of moisture while in a growing state. Those sorts which throw up numerous suckers should be lifted every three or four years, reduced, and then transplanted. When thus removing them, avoid as much as possible exposing their roots; and when newly planted, mulching is of considerable advantage; that is, putting half rotten stable-manure on the surface of the ground round their roots, which prevents evaporation, and keeps up a constant moisture. If this was done in general to our roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve their flowering. For China roses see next month.

CLIMBING ROSES.

This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing roses, such as Champney, Scarlet Cluster, Duchesse de Dino, Notsette, Burgenville, &c. Many of these, when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, become unsightly; they never bear flowers on the old wood, that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood, which the second year bears the most and finest flowers. In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequently killed, and we have often seen all the wood black or brown, and apparently dead. When that is the case it is best to leave it until they begin to grow, which will show what is dead or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage.

DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS.

The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in this month, the more will their growth and flowering be promoted, having all finished before the buds begin to expand. (For kinds recommended see List, end of the volume.) They should never be planted too thick, but leave space for them to grow as they respectively require, and according as they are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or thickets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting. Make the holes intended for their reception round, capacious, and deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them in the least, and loosen the bottom well, putting new and fresh soil under their roots, breaking and pulverizing it during the operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you progress in filling up. When done, make all firm with the foot, leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will require during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands all that need that support before they are left, lest they should be neglected. Cut off any of the bruised roots or irregular growths of the branches.

GRASS PLATS AND WALKS.

Rake and sweep off from these all litter and worm cast earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground, and render the surface smooth, where the scythe is to be used. The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to the beauty of the whole. Cut the edgings with an edging iron or spade, so that the whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf is required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it, before vegetation is strong; as the turf that is now laid will have taken root before the dry season commences. Where a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted; but it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and during that time must be carefully cut, after the first season, every three weeks, while growing, nor must it be walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye-grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground must in the first place be all equally made up, and levelled with the spade and rake; not "cart loads of soil laid down and leveled," which would finally become very uneven, and would need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf is that of a close growing pasture or common, free from all kinds of weeds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron; but if that cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well. Strain a line tight, cutting the turf lengthways, at equal distances, from twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across, cutting from one and a half to two feet; then cut them up with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying, join them close and alternately; when done, beat them firm with a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy roller.

Grass walks, in the last century, were very popular; but time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for walking upon or using in any manner, almost for one half of the year; therefore not answering the purposes intended. They require great attention to keep them in order; and if not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in a garden; but when they are well dressed, their effect is very enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground as above directed; making the walk a little higher than the adjoining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide, make the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about seven-eighths of an inch to the foot whatever the breadth may be, which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain. When laid, beat and roll it well; cutting the edge neat and even. Water frequently if the weather sets in dry. To keep grass walks or plats in order, they should be mown once every three or four weeks from May to September, and the grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is allowed to get long before being cut, the roots become tender; and die when exposed to the sun; at last the grass is all in spots, and in another year requires to be relaid.

GRAVEL WALKS.

A practice once existed of turning these into heaps or ridges during winter to destroy weeds, &c. But this has almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconvenient, and not doing any material service.

Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches deep where the gravel will admit of it; but if not, hoe and rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and pick up any stones that you think too large; then give them a good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain. When they are well attended to just now, they will look well all the season; but if neglected, they take more labour, and are never in such good condition.

Fancy edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Gentiana, Lavender, and Violets—(Daisies may be used if the situation is shaded.) The whole of these may be planted by the line with the dibber except Thyme, which lay as directed for Box. See this month, under that head. Any time in this or beginning of next month will answer to make edgings of these; and if dry weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting, they must have frequent waterings until they have taken fresh root. Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the season to keep it in order.

OF GRAFTING.

There are four methods of grafting. The one we will describe is whip or tongue grafting, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock upon which it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch to any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having headed the stock at a clear smooth part, slope it on one side with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the lower side of the slope about an inch downwards, to receive the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having the prepared scions cut into lengths of 3, 4, or 5 eyes, take one which matches the stock in size, and slope the bottom of it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both may correspond exactly, especially on one side and at bottom; make also a slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of the stock, so as the one may be inserted in the other as evenly and completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully held in its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take strands of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner several times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the joint with well worked clay, coat from half an inch below the bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, and to the thickness of half an inch all round, finish it in an oblong globular form, taking care to work it close, that no air may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it will partially prevent it from cracking.

The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow freely; then the clay may be taken off, and the bandage loosened, and put on again, but not so tight; give the grafts a stake for support, tying them thereto to prevent accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the stock.

Any of the rare deciduous trees may, by the above method, be grafted on one of its own family, that is more common, and in that respect is the finest species of propagation that is resorted to.