No. 3. Rosa IndÌca mÍnor, is the smallest of the China roses that we are familiar with; about the end of April or beginning of May it is completely covered with pretty little flowers, and much admired for its diminutiveness: colour same as No. 1.

No. 4. Rosa Bengal elongÁta, named from the foliage being more elongate than the other common roses. It grows and flowers freely, petals large, colour light red, very distinguishable from any of the other sorts.

No. 5. Rosa belle Chinese, is a beautiful French rose, and blooms in great abundance; flowers large and double, colour when first expanded pink, and changes to crimson, making a striking appearance, and greatly admired.

No. 6. Rosa la tendere japonica, an erect growing rose, of a handsome purple colour, with large petals; much like the garden velvet rose.

No. 7. Rosa belle vibert, does not produce so large flowers as the three last mentioned; but they are very double, blooming abundantly in the latter part of summer; colour very dark, and by some called the Black China Rose.

No. 8. Rosa odorÀta, or Tea-rose, celebrated in this country for its fragrance being similar to fine Hyson tea. It justly deserves the preference of all the China roses, for the delicacy of its flavour. The flowers are a cream coloured blush, the petals round and full, forming a very large rose; when full blown, it is pendulous. It will withstand the winter of the middle states with a little protection, such as straw, box, or barrel; requires very rich light soil.

No. 9. Rosa Florence, or Scarlet-tea. This rose partakes of the fragrance of No. 8, is perfectly hardy, grows freely, and flowers profusely. The flower is well formed, very double, and a distinct variety from any that we know. The flower is lightest when first expanded.

No. 10. Rose, Purple-tea. We have not found how this name has originated: but when the plant known in our collections under that name is compared, there is no difference between it and No. 9.

No. 11. Rosa odorÀta Álba, or White-tea, is not so odorous as No. 8, but blooms more profusely, and grows more freely. The beautiful and neat appearance of the buds, when half expanded, is not surpassed; and when full blown, they are a fine delicate white. The bush in that state is showy, much admired, and scarce; we are not positive of its being hardy.

No. 12. Rosa Bengal, or Yellow-tea, is a very free flowerer, the shape of the flower is more like No. 8. than any of the others; the petals are large and gracefully set, having a peculiar scent or flavour, and is of a sulphur colour. We cannot say as to its being hardy, but suppose it as much so as No. 8.

No. 13. Rosa Venella, or Venella Scented-tea, is undoubtedly a handsome rose, and has many admirers; colour a bloody velvet; flowers large and very double, rising in the centre more than any of the others; blooming freely, and of pleasant flavour; rendering it altogether a desirable rose.

No. 14. Rosa belle de monza. The flower of this rose is flatter than any of the other sorts; the petals are regularly laid over each other, making it very compact; it is about four inches in diameter when well grown; the plant is of quick growth, free in flowering, darker in colour than No. 1, equally as hardy, and ought to have a situation in every garden where roses are grown.

No. 15. Rosa amarÁnthe, is a showy brilliant scarlet rose, flower compact, and of a moderate size.

No. 16. *Rosa ClintÓnia, is a good rose, and in a favourable situation will produce abundantly large, round, and compact flowers, differing in shape from any of the others; colour similar to the provins rose.

No. 17. Rosa semperflÒrens plÈno, or sanguinea, is a celebrated rose, the foliage small, and of a reddish appearance. The flower is well shaped, and of a blood colour; wood of a slender growth, requires some protection in winter, or it will die to the surface of the ground; delights in sandy soil. This rose is frequently called anemone-flowered, though in no respects similar to the character of an anemone-flower. The Otaheite rose is of the same colour, but very inferior.

No. 18. *Rosa purple sanguinea, is of a purple colour, same in shape as No. 17, but in size larger; is a good flowerer, making a fine variety. We do not know any similar to it.

No. 19. Rosa grandvÀl, is a magnificent rose; flower full and large, petals closely set, colour dark crimson. The wood and leaves are like the Hamilton rose, but it grows and flowers more freely. It is scarce.

No. 20. Rosa Indica Álba plÈno, or white China, is a rose of free growth, abundant in flower, and pure white, which renders it very desirable; is larger than No. 1, is greatly admired, and rare; requires rich light soil.

No. 21. Rosa Magnifier, magnificent, or magnÌfica. It is known under all these names. The general appearance of the plant resembles No. 19, but the flowers in shape and colour are similar to the garden Provins rose, and nearly as large.

No. 22. *Rosa florabÙnda multiplÈx. This rose is very correctly named, although the plant is of a moderate stature. The whole is covered with immense clusters of various coloured flowers, changing from pink to dark crimson; the flowers very double, and greatly admired.

No. 23. *Rosa flamÆa, has a very striking appearance, is of a flame colour, and distinct from any other of the China roses; blooms freely, and is a little fragrant, which makes it desirable.

No. 24. *Rosa HibbÈrtia, is a superb rose of a light red colour; flower of a common size, double and compact, very fragrant, and abundant in bloom. The buds are of a particular shape, being flat at the extremity where others are pointed. It is highly deserving of a situation, and universally admired.

No. 25. *Rosa JacksÓnia, is deep red, large, and very double, of luxuriant growth; is more spiny and elastic than any of the China roses that have come under our observation. The plant altogether is unique in its character, and flowers profusely.

No. 26. R. AdamsÔnia, is dwarf growing; has flowers of a beautiful purple velvet colour, inclining to black; and is much admired. When well grown, it will bloom freely.

No. 27. *Rosa WebestÈria.[C] None of the China roses approaches this, except Hortensia, and it is much inferior. The rose is very double, and particularly well formed; colour similar to No. 8, with a beautiful rich blush in the centre, flowing to the extremity of the petals. It blooms profusely, and grows freely in light rich soil.

No. 28. Rosa gigÁntea. Without exception, this is the handsomest shaped China rose that has come under our observation, the colour dark crimson, with a few shades through it. The centre is full set; petals regular and large, the flower very double, plant strong, growing and free blooming—it is scarce.

No. 29. Rosa Washington,[D] is a very good and distinct variety; the foliage is pale green with red nerves; flower full and compact, the extremity of the petals dark red, the bottom white; showing, when the flower is full expanded, a white centre, and is frequently a little striped; grows well, and blooms freely, in light sandy soil.

No. 30. *Rosa calyxifÒlia. The calyx of this rose has large leaflets attached to it. It blooms very early, and is of a deep crimson colour, with recurved petals, which give it a singular and beautiful appearance. The young shoots and leaves are of a purple hue. It grows and flowers freely, and is quite characteristic, and surpasses any we know for flowering early in the Green-house or Rooms.

No. 31. Rosa MontezÙma (Mexican-rose.) This is an esteemed variety, with large double flowers of a red colour, and when the flowers begin to fade they become darker; it is of a strong growing and hardy nature, much admired, and scarce.

No. 32. Rosa hortÉnsia. The buds of this rose are very beautiful before expansion, and when fully expanded, are of a fine colour, assimilated to No. 8; flowers large in proportion to the growth of the plant.

---

These roses are all of a shrubby nature, and the finest flowering varieties that have come under our observation and culture. The China roses generally are not completely double, though going under the name of double flowers, and having the appearance of such. Those that are mentioned above as double and very double are those that are more double than No. 1, which is a rose that is generally known. The whole of them are much admired, and being now of great variety in colour, shade and aspect, constitute a valuable addition to the Flower-garden. A bed of varieties planted therein in good light rich soil, and well dressed by hoeing deep, raking, &c. during the early stage of their growth every season, will form an ornament varied in colour, unrivalled, and as yet not found in our Flower-gardens. Their nature agrees so well with our summer seasons, that it will not surprise us to see, in a few years, selections of them planted in rows or hedges, dividing the compartments in our gardens.

They are all hardy, but of those that are not perfectly so, we have mentioned the required protection. Any of them that have not been proved hardy in your collections, it would be extremely injudicious to leave them exposed the first winter after planting out. Caution is necessary on every unknown point; therefore, we would recommend to give them slight protection, by a covering of straw, mats, boxes, &c. and if they appear to withstand the winter in perfect safety, they will not need again to be covered.

The best season of the year for pruning them is about the first of this month. In doing so it is not advisable to shorten any of the young shoots, except in cutting off the injured parts, that being the wood most productive of bloom; but where there is old stinted wood, it should be cut out as close to the surface of the ground as the other parts of the bush will permit, with any other of the oldest wood that is too crowded. If the plants have been long established, dig in amongst their roots a little well decomposed manure, and stir and hoe them frequently during the summer.

CLIMBING ROSES.

No. 1. Rosa ChampneyÀna. This celebrated rose has a situation in almost every garden in our city, and forms a great ornament, flowering very profusely in immense clusters from May to November. Many of these having more than thirty buds upon them of a light pink colour, it is sometimes called "Pink Cluster." It is of rapid growth, and does well for covering arbours, fences, or any unsightly object. The foliage is of a lucid green, and the wood very strong in growth. This rose is at present one of the most abundant in flower, the easiest of cultivation, (growing in any exposure,) and in every respect is highly deserving of attention.

No. 2. Rosa blush NoisettiÀ is very similar to No. 1. in habit; the flowers are lighter in colour, and a little larger; but the plant does not flower so profusely during the heat of the season. There is a variety of Noisettia in our gardens, known from this by the bud being more rounded, and another under the name of Charles 10th, which has fine large flowers of a dark blush colour.

No. 3. Rosa red NoisettiÀ, or what we consider more properly Scarlet cluster. It is very distinct from any other of the Noisettias in habit. It is an excellent variety, and blooms abundantly; of a scarlet colour; forming a fine contrast with the two last, which are light in colour, and though not generally known is very desirable.

No. 4. Rosa moschÀta, musk-scented, or white cluster, is an esteemed rose both for profusion of flower and agreeableness in fragrance. It is not of so rapid growth as the three previous, and may be kept as a bush; though it will grow to a considerable height if protected by a wall or close fence, being tacked thereto. Where kept as a bush, in very severe winters, it is the better of a slight covering, and is the latest flowering rose in the garden. The flowers are frequently on the same bush single, semi-double, and double, but mostly semi-double.

No. 5. Rosa moschÀta supÉrba, or superb white cluster. This in habit and appearance is the same as No. 4, only the roses are double, and never vary; which makes it a very superior rose. It is highly esteemed and scarce.

No. 6. Rosa Aralie NoisettiÀ. This has been called by some Purple NoisettiÀ, (which is a very different rose, and not generally known.) In growth it is similar to No. 4, and could be kept in the same manner. The flowers are of a dark pink colour, very prolific, but not so large as No. 2.

These are all what are termed with us ever-blooming roses, being in flower from May until the buds are destroyed by frost. They should be pruned about the first of this month. The young wood is most productive of bloom; where the branches are too crowded, cut out the oldest wood as close to the ground as is practicable, and any of the dead branches. The shoots when tied to the trellis, arbour, wall, or fence, should be about six inches clear. The branches when made fast to their support ought to be in direct lines, which must at all times be strictly observed. It is very unsightly to see shoots trained crooked, or over each other, and, unsightly or unscientifical as it may be, it is too prevalent in every garden.

No. 7. R. BourbÒn is a double rose of brilliant red colour, petals large, stiff, and neatly set; the flower about the size of a common Provins rose, and finely scented; grows freely. The wood is strong, and undoubtedly it is the finest climbing rose that has come under our observation, and is highly admired.

No. 8. R. Boursault. This rose is much thought of in Europe. It is of a purple colour (and once called Purpurea), has a little fragrance, flower nearly the size of No. 7; wood more slender, and of very rapid growth, and capable of covering a large space. When in flower it is very showy. The old wood is of a purple colour. There is a white variety of it.

No. 9. R. Lisle, is of a light pink colour, about the shape and size of No. 8, grows freely, and flowers abundantly. This and No. 8. are the hardiest climbing roses that we know.

No. 10. R. microphylla. This rose is unique in every character, resembling No. 21. more than any other. The foliage is very small and neat, and the calyx thick and bristly. The flowers are produced at the extremity of the young shoots in twos or threes, according to the strength of the plant; they are large and double; the exterior petals large and full; those of the interior are very short and thick set; the colour in the centre is dark, shading lighter towards the exterior; the spines are in pairs on each side of the compound leaves. It is perfectly hardy, and greatly esteemed, and not so subject to be attacked by insects as other roses.

No. 11. R. Franklinia, or Cluster-tea, generally flowers well in May and June, but during the remainder of the season the heat appears to be too strong for it, the buds dropping off before expansion. The flower bud is larger than that of the Tea-rose; the petals large but loose, colour light blush.

No. 12. R. BÁnksiÆ, or Lady Banks' rose, is a free growing kind, and has a lucid green foliage; flowers small white clusters with pink centre, very double, and sweet scented; in bloom during May. From what we have seen of it, the spring months appear too changeable for perfecting all its bloom, many falling off from the chilliness of the nights. The plant naturally is an evergreen, but in our city is deciduous; grows best in sandy soil, and should be protected by mats during winter.

No. 13. R. BÁnksiÆ lÙtea plÉno. The habit and foliage of this are the same as No. 12, and whether hardy or not we have not proved. In Europe it is considered more hardy than the preceding variety. The flowers are larger, of a fine gold yellow, very double, and neatly set. It is considered very pretty.

No. 14. R. multiflÒra, was amongst the first climbing roses that was planted in this city, and was so highly admired, that twenty dollars were given for one plant. It bears its flowers in close clusters on the wood of last year; the colour is a deep blush; petals thickly set, making it a close and compact small rose; blooming in June. It is losing its celebrity, and giving place to ChampnÈy, NoisÈttia, GrevÌllii, &c.

No. 15. R. white multiflÒra. In all respects same as No. 14, except in flower, which is much lighter, but not a pure white.

No. 16. R. scarlet multiflÒra, is darker in colour than No. 14, but is not properly a scarlet flower.

No. 17. R. purple multiflÒra. We suspect that there is some confusion in this plant being confounded either with Scarlet multiflÒra or with GrevÌllii. Plants imported as such have proved to be the latter.

No. 18. R. GrevÌllii, is a very curious rose, flowered the first time with us in June 1830. It is of the variety of No. 14, and of China origin; growth free and luxuriant; leaves large and deeply nerved; flowers in large clusters, almost every eye of the wood of last year producing one cluster, having on it from eight to twenty roses, according to the state of the plant, each rose expanding differently in colour or shade. Many suppose that they expand all of the same colour, and change afterwards. This is not the case. We have seen them white, pink, red, purple, and various other shades when the bloom expanded; and on two clusters we have observed twenty-two distinct shades of colour. In fact, it is a complete nondescript, having roses, single, semi-double, and double, large and small, and every colour between white and purple, forming, in every garden where it is planted, a wonder of the vegetable world. It is very hardy; an eastern aspect will answer it best, preserving the flowers from the direct rays of the sun, which will keep the colours purer. We readily recommend it to every lover of Flora.

No. 19. R. arvÉnsis scÁndens multiplÈx, or double Ayrshire. We imported this rose last year, as being a very double blush, sweet-scented variety. It is highly valued, and said to be more rapid in growth than any other variety, and likewise a profuse flowerer. As far as we know it remains to be proved how it will agree with our climate, and have its high characters substantiated; although we have no reason to doubt the authority we received it from.

No. 20. R. sempervÍrens plenÒ. This is a most handsome double white rose. The strong shoots of last year will produce a large cluster of flowers from almost every eye, and as a profuse flowering double white climbing rose we have seen none to surpass it. It grows freely, the foliage and wood pure green, leaves much nerved.

No. 21. R. bracteÀta plenÒ, double Macartney, is a very fine large double white variety, with strongly marked red edged petals; blooming from May to July. It is very scarce, and grows best in sandy soil.

The best time for pruning those roses which only bloom once in the season, and are of a climbing habit, is immediately after flowering, cutting out all the old wood that has produced flowers, thereby invigorating the young wood that is to bear the flowers the ensuing year; and the stronger the wood of this year can be made to grow, the finer and more profuse will be the flowers. The plants of Nos. 12, 14, 18, and the intermediate varieties, have been pruned on a wrong system. In place of giving them a general dressing in spring, they ought to have it immediately after flowering; the old wood cut out, leaving only the young and such as is of a healthy nature. Avoid crowding them together, and tie them all straight and regular. Never top the shoots except where there is a supply of wood wanted. In spring the only dressing requisite is to cut off the injured shoots or branches, making good the tyings that have given way.

Trellises for these roses are generally made too wide; the shoots cannot be neatly kept to them. They ought never to exceed nine inches between each spar or rod.

There are several species and varieties of climbing roses of high standing in character, but not being perfectly known to us in regard to hardiness, &c. we forbear making any remarks upon them, knowing that much exaggeration exists.

CLIMBING PLANTS.

As shade is much required in this country, and plants suitable for covering arbours, &c. eagerly sought for, we will make a few remarks on those which are preferred for their beauty, growth, hardiness, &c.

AtragÈne alpÌna, is a free growing deciduous shrub, with large blush-coloured flowers, which continue blooming from May to July; has small pinnated foliage.

ClÉmatis viticÉlla pulchÉlla, or double purple virgin's bower, is an esteemed climbing plant; of rapid growth, with large flowers in great profusion from June to September. There are several varieties of the above, two of them single, and it is said that there is likewise a double red.

C. flÁmmula, sweet scented virgin's bower, is of very rapid growth. Established plants will grow from twenty to forty feet in one season, producing at the axils of the young shoots large panicles of small white flowers of exquisite fragrance; the leaves are compound pinnate; in bloom from June to November, but in June, July, September, and October, the flowers are in great profusion, perfuming the whole garden. This is one of the best climbing hardy plants that we know, and it ought to have a situation in every garden.

C. VirgiÀna, is of rapid growth, and well adapted for arbours; flowers small white in axillary panicles, dioecious, leaves ternate, segments cordate, acute, coarsely toothed and lobed, in bloom from June to August. A native, and a little fragrant.

C. flÒrida plenÒ, is a fine free flowering plant, though generally considered a shrub, is more herbaceous than shrubby; the flowers are large double white; in growth will not exceed ten feet in one season.

Glycine frutÉscens, a beautiful native climbing shrub, known in our gardens under that name, but is properly WistÈria frutÉscens. It has large pendulous branches of blue (leguminose) flowers, blooming from May to August; pinnated leaves with nine ovate downy leaflets; grows freely.

Glycine chinÉnsis, is given to WistÈria, and is the finest climbing shrub of the phaseolious tribe. The flowers are light blue, in long nodding many-flowered racemose spikes, blooming from May to August profusely; leaves pinnated, with eleven ovate lanceolate silky leaflets, and is of a very rapid growth. We are not certain if it will withstand our winters without protection.

BignÒnia crucÍgera, is an evergreen which is very desirable in many situations, being likewise of luxuriant growth. It will cover in a few years an area of fifty feet; flowers of an orange scarlet colour, blooming from May to August.

B. grandiflÒra, now given to TecÔma, has large orange coloured flowers, blooming from June to August, and grows very fast. We are not positive that it will stand our winters without protection.

B. rÁdicans, is likewise given to TecÒma, and is a native plant. When in flower it is highly ornamental, but it requires great attention to keep it in regular order, being of a strong rough nature; in bloom from June to August.

PeriplÀca grÆca, is a climber of extraordinary growth. Well established plants grow thirty or forty feet in one season; flowers in clusters from May to July, of a brownish yellow colour, and hairy inside; leaves smooth, ovate, lanceolate, wood slender, twining, and elastic.

HedÉra HÉlix, Irish Ivy, is a valuable evergreen for covering naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The foliage is of a lively green, leaves from three to five angled. There are several varieties of it, all valuable for growing in confined shady situations where no other plant will thrive.

AmpelÓpsis hederÀcea. This plant is commonly employed for covering walls, for which the rapidity of its growth, and the largeness of the leaves, render it extremely appropriate. There are several species of the genus, all resembling the Vine in habit and in flower.

It is called by some CÍssus hederÀcea, which is certainly improper, this belonging to Tetandria, and the former to Pentandria.

There are several other plants of a climbing habit, both curious and ornamental; but our limits will not admit of a detail.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS.

Finish planting all deciduous shrubs in the early part of the month. These plants are generally delayed too long, the leaves in many instances are beginning to expand, thereby giving a check to the ascending sap, which we may safely assert causes the death of one third of the plants, when perhaps the operator or some individual more distantly concerned is blamed.

These shrubs, if properly removed and planted at the exact starting of vegetation, pressing the earth close to their roots when planting, (previously taking care that the small fibres have not become dry by exposure,) will not, by these simple attentions, one out of fifty fail. Those that are late planted should have frequent waterings, and if large, firmly supported, that the wind may have no effect in disturbing the young and tender fibrous roots.

OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

Now is the season to plant all kinds of evergreen trees and shrubs. In most seasons the middle of the month is the most proper time, the weather then being mild and moist; or if a late season, defer it to the end of the month. When planted earlier, they will remain dormant until this time, and their tender fibrous roots in that case frequently perish from their liability to injury from frost or frosty winds, being more susceptible of such injury than fibres of deciduous plants. They now begin to vegetate, which is the grand criterion for transplanting any plant. The buds begin to swell, the roots to push, and if they can be quickly lifted and replanted, they will hardly receive a check. At all events care must be taken that they are not long out of the ground and exposed to the air, which greatly assists the success in planting. It may be observed that evergreens in general succeed the better the smaller they are, although we have seen plants, trees, and evergreens, successfully lifted upwards of thirteen feet high and fifteen in diameter, and carried several miles. By the second year there was no appearance that such operation had taken place. In preparing a hole for the reception of these plants, make it larger than the roots, breaking the bottom thereof fine, and putting in some fresh soil. Place the plant upright in the centre, putting in the earth and breaking it fine, and give the plant a few gentle shakes. When the roots are more than half covered, put in a pot or pail full of water, allowing it to subside, then cover all the roots, give a second or third pail full, and when subsided the earth will be close to all the roots. Cover with more earth, pressing all firm with the foot. Put more soil loosely on, which will give it a finished appearance, and prevent it from becoming dry, and not requiring mulching, which has an unsightly appearance. All that the wind will have any hurtful effect upon, must be firmly supported, especially large plants. If the weather sets in dry and hot, they should be watered as often as necessity shall direct.

Those that are established, it will be necessary to go over them (if not already done) to cut off all wood killed in winter, and also to thin them if too thick and crowded.

When the above is done, let every part of the shrubbery be dressed off as directed in March. Shrubs of all kinds will now begin to look gay and lively, which may be very much heightened or depreciated, according to the state in which the ground and contiguous walks are kept. Always keep in view that weeds are no objects of beauty.

CARE OF CHOICE BULBS.

Hyacinths of the earliest sorts will begin to expand and show their colours, of which we can boast of a few as fine sorts in the vicinity of Philadelphia, as in any garden of Europe; but even these very superior sorts, when in bloom, are too frequently neglected, being allowed to stand without rods, stakes, or any means of support, likewise equally exposed to drenching rains and scorching suns; and the finest collections may be seen after heavy rains prostrate on the ground, whereas a few hours' trouble would give them the requisite support, thereby preserving their beauty much longer, and giving more gratification. As soon as the stems advance to any height, they should be supported by wires, rods, &c. and tied slightly thereto with threads of matting, or any other substitute, repeat the tying as they advance, avoid tying amongst the florets, because they grow by extension, and are liable to be broken off by so doing. The sun deteriorates the colours very much, especially the red, blue, and yellow sorts; whereas if they were simply protected from the sun by an awning of thin canvass, the colours would be preserved and the beauty protracted. If there are stakes drove into the ground on each side of the beds, about three feet high, with others in the centre about eight feet, having laths or hoops from the side to the centre, formed similar to the roof of a house, so that people may walk or sit under it, the canvass or awning being thin to admit of the light freely, the effect in the time of sunshine from the brilliancy of the colours is peculiarly gratifying. Where an awning is thus erected, it requires to be kept on only from nine to three o'clock in sunshine days, and during nights or time of rain, allowing the awning on the most northern side to come close to the ground when necessary, to shelter them from cold cutting winds.

Tulips in every respect should have the same care and protection, never neglecting to have the beds with a smooth clean surface, and the stems neatly tied up, although they are not in so much danger as Hyacinths.

The properties of a good Hyacinth are, viz—the stem strong and erect, the florets or bells occupying one half of the stem, each floret suspended by a short strong footstalk, longest at the bottom, the uppermost floret quite erect, so that the whole may form a pyramid. Each floret well filled with petals rising towards the centre, that it may appear to the eye a little convex. Regarding colour, fancy does not agree, and the scrupulous cultivators differ materially. However the more pure and bright the finer, or a white with a pink centre, or the centre of the petals with a paler or deeper colour appearing striped, which is considered to have a good effect.

Those of a good Tulip are—the stem strong, elastic, and erect, about two feet high, the flower large and composed of six petals, proceeding a little horizontally at first, and then turning upwards, forming a flat-bottomed cup, rather widest at the top; the three exterior petals should be larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their base; the edges of the petals entire, free from notch or ruggedness; the top of each well rounded; the colour of the flower at the bottom of the cup ought to be pure, white, or yellow, and the rich coloured stripes which are the principal ornament should be pure, bold, regular, and distinct on the margin, and terminate in fine points elegantly pencilled. The centre of each petal should have one bold stripe, or blotch of rich colouring. The ground colours that are most esteemed are white, the purer the finer; or, on the other hand, the dark grounds, and of course the darker the better; but these vary in estimation, according to the prevailing taste of amateurs.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

Moist weather and frequent showers are highly essential to the perfecting of these flowers, and if these should fail at this season of the year, artificial means must be used to supply the deficiency. Take a watering-pot without the rose, and run the water (river or rain water is best) gently between the rows, taking care not to make holes in the ground. When they have got a good watering at root, take the syringe and give them a gentle sprinkling in fine evenings, observing not to use force for fear of breaking the flower stems. In dry weather the result of a deficiency of water would be that the stems and flowers of the strongest roots will be weak, and make no progress, and many of them will not bloom; the foliage of a sickly, yellow appearance, from which they would not recover; and the roots when taken up of little use for farther transplanting.

A good plan in dry seasons is to cover the ground between the rows with cow manure, which will prevent the moisture from evaporating, and the rain or water passing through it greatly enriches the soil, and strengthens the roots.

AURICULAS.

Having under this head last month given ample directions for the treatment of these plants previous to flowering, we refer to that head to avoid repetition.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, &c.

If any of these were omitted to be shifted last month, or planted out according to directions therein given, let it be done forthwith. Where they are still protected with frames, give them plenty of air, keeping the sashes entirely off during the day, keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and give the foliage frequent sprinklings with water.

Polyanthus and primroses will be exhibiting their beautiful flowers. They require the same treatment, and delight in moisture and a shaded situation. Do not sprinkle them while in flower, and keep them clear of weeds or decayed leaves, never exposing them to the sun. They are very hardy, and where required may be planted in very shady situations, for they will suffer more from the influence of the sun's rays than from frost. Those plants in pots in general that have been protected in frames, and are destined for the borders, should now as soon as possible be planted in their destined situations, having nothing to fear from chilling winds or frosts after the middle of this month, except in uncommon seasons. Those that are to be kept in pots, if not repotted, do it immediately, and give regular supplies of water.

POLIANTHUS TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO.

This very popular bulb, generally known as Tuberose, has been cultivated in England upwards of two centuries, whence we no doubt have received it, and now can return those of our production to supply their demand. The flowers are many and highly odoriferous, and of the purest white, and on a flower stem from three to five feet high. To have them in the greatest perfection, they should be planted in a lively hot-bed, about the first of this month in six inch pots filled with light rich earth, giving very little water until they begin to grow, when they ought to be liberally supplied with plenty of air, and about the end of next month they may be planted in the borders, providing a spot for them that is or has been well worked, and enriched with well decomposed manure. Secure their flower stems to proper rods. Previous to planting the roots, all the off-sets should be taken off and planted separately; keep the crown of the bulb level with the surface of the pot, and when they are replanted in the open ground, put them two inches deeper.

But when the convenience of a hot-bed cannot be obtained, they will succeed very well if planted about the end of this month or first of next in the garden, in a bed of earth prepared for their reception. Let it be dug deep, and make the soil light and rich, by giving it a good supply of manure two years old, well broken and incorporated with the earth, adding a little sand where the soil is heavy. The black earth from the woods produced from decayed leaves is equally as good without sand. Having the ground in proper order, draw drills about two and a half inches deep, and eighteen inches apart; plant the bulbs (after divesting them of their off-sets) nine inches apart in the row, covering the crown of the bulb about an inch and a half. When done, carefully rake and finish off the beds. When they shoot up their flower stems, give them neat rods for their support. Plant the off-sets in closer rows to produce flowering roots for next year, because they seldom flower the second time.

AMARYLLIS FORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY.

About the end of this or beginning of next month, is the most proper time for planting out these bulbs. This flower is of the most beautiful and rich crimson velvet colour. The bulb generally produces two stems, the one after the other, about the end of May or first of June. The stem is from nine inches to one foot high, surmounted by a single flower, composed of six petals, three hanging down, three erect and recurved; the stamens droop on the centre of the under petals. The flower thus appears nodding on one side of the stem, and has a most graceful and charming appearance. If planted in a bed, prepare the ground as before directed for Tuberoses. Keep the rows one foot asunder, and the bulbs six inches apart in the rows, covering them two inches over their crowns. This plant is now called SpreikÈlia formosÍssima, and we think properly too, for its habit differs from Amaryllis.

We have not the smallest doubt that in a few years, not only this superb South American bulb will adorn our flower gardens, but many of the rich bulbs of Brazil and South America generally will yearly exhibit to us the beauty of their colours and the beautiful construction of their flowers and foliage, of which we are now generally deprived, perhaps because we have not the conveniency of a proper hot-house for their protection during winter. But it will be found, in many instances, that these bulbs will do perfectly well to be kept dry in a warm room from October to May, when the heat of our summer is sufficient for the perfection of their flowers, and many species will ripen their seeds. The bulb that is known as Amaryllis BelladÓnna, now called BelladÓnna purpurÁscens, is hardy.

TIGER FLOWER.

TigrÍdia, a genus of Mexican bulbs belonging to Monadelphia TriÁndria, and produce the most beautiful flowers of the natural order of IrideÆ. T. pavÒnia is of the brightest scarlet, tinged and spotted with pure yellow. T. conchiiflÒra, colour rich yellow, tinged and spotted with bright crimson. The colours are very rich, and purely contrasted. The corolla is about four inches in diameter, composed of six petals; the outer are reflexed, the flower of the largest, though splendid in beauty, exists only one day; but to compensate for that, a plant will produce flowers for several weeks; and where a bed of them can be collected, they will bloom in profusion from July to September. They like a light rich free soil. Lift the bulbs in October, and preserve them as directed in that month for Tuberoses. Be sure that they be kept dry, and secure from frost. A bed of these should be in every garden. A writer says, "it is the most beautiful flower that is cultivated." Plant them about the end of this or first of next month; if in beds keep them one foot apart each way.

WALKS.

The walks in general should be put in the neatest order during this month. Little requires to be added to the observations of last month, but if these have not been executed, fail not to have it done the first opportunity, choosing dry weather for the operation of turning the old or adding new gravel to them, levelling, raking, and rolling neatly as you proceed. Always after rain give the whole of the gravel walks a good rolling. This being frequently done during the early part of the season, will be a saving of much labour and time through the summer. The walks having a firm surface, the growth of weeds will be retarded, and the heavy rains will not be so apt to injure them. Where there are any pretensions to keeping these in order, they ought to be picked of weeds and litter once a week, and gone over with the roller at least once every two weeks during the season.

Sweep and divest the grass walks of all worm casts, litter, &c. cutting the edgings neatly. Mow the grass every two weeks from this time to October, sweeping off the grass clean each time, and give frequent rollings to keep the surface smooth. If any require to be laid with turf, delay it no longer. For directions see last month. The above observations on walks in general, will apply through the season; therefore we will not repeat this subject until October.

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

We have previously observed, under the head of Evergreens, that this is the best season for their replanting. We cannot pass over the observations of this month, without having reference to evergreen hedges, so much neglected amongst us, and yet so important to the diversity of aspect, and especially to soften a little the gloomy appearance of our winters. There are three indigenous shrubs, and at least one exotic, that are well adapted for the purpose, viz, PÌnus canadÉnsis, Hemlock-spruce; ThÙja occidentÀlis, American arbor-vitÆ; and JunÍperis virginiÁna, Red cedar. These are natives, and the two former are admirably adapted for the purpose. Where there is to be a hedge of any of these planted, select plants about two feet high; lift them carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. Dig a trench from one and a half to two feet wide, and from one to one foot and a half deep. This will admit the soil about the roots to be well broken, which must be done in planting. Keep the plants in the centre of the trench, mixing the shortest and the tallest, that it may be of one height, putting the earth close about their roots as you proceed, and make it firm with the foot; fill up, and water as directed for evergreens in this month. If the season is very dry, give it frequent copious waterings.

None of them should be topped for a few seasons, except such as are much above the others in height, keeping the sides regular and even by clipping or shearing once a year, either in this month or at the end of August. It is better to keep the top (when they have got to the desired height) pointed, than broad. The latter method retains a heavy weight of snow, which frequently breaks down, or otherwise deforms, that which has cost much labour to put into shape.

BOX EDGINGS.

Where these have not been laid, this month is the proper time. Do not delay the planting of such any later. For ample directions see March under this head. Clipping of those should be done about the middle of this month. There will then be no danger of frosts to brown the cut leaves, and the young foliage will not be expanded. To keep these edgings in order, they must be cut once a year, and never be allowed to get above four inches high, and two inches wide. What we consider the neatest edging is three inches high, two inches wide at the bottom, tapering to a thin edge at the top. It is very unsightly to see large bushy edgings, especially to narrow walks.

The use of edgings is to keep the soil from the gravel, and the larger they are allowed to grow the more ineffectual they become; growing more open below as they advance in height. The operation may be done very expeditiously by clipping the tops level, going longitudinally along with shears for the purpose, called "box shears." Strain a line along the centre of the edgings, cutting perpendicularly from the line to the bottom on each side, leaving only the breadth of the line at top. Edgings, cut in this manner, every spring will always look well, and the trouble, comparatively, is a mere trifle.

GRASS PLATS, &c.

If these have not been laid down where wanted, delay it no longer, for which see directions in March; and where these are desired to be kept in order, they should be mown every two or three weeks at farthest; from this month to October when cut, the grass should be clean swept off, and the edgings, if out of order, adjusted. To mention this subject again will be only a repetition, therefore we will let this suffice.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER.

Every part of the flower ground should be put into neat order, giving such plants about the borders as are shooting up their flower stems, and are tender, and in danger of being hurt or broken by the wind, proper sticks or rods for their support. In doing this, endeavour to conceal the rods, &c. as much as possible, by dressing the stems and leaves in a natural looking manner over them. Let the stakes be in proportion to the heighth and growth of the plants. It looks very unsightly to see strong stakes to short and weak growing plants. The tyings likewise should be proportionate.

Examine all the beds and patches of seedling flowers now coming up, and let them be refreshed with water as it may be necessary, and pick out the weeds as they appear.

We cannot leave this department at this season of the year, without enforcing the benefit and beauty that will result from keeping the weeds down during this and next month. Therefore strictly observe that there are none running to seed in any part of the garden; in fact, they ought not to be allowed to rear their heads above one day in sight.

---