IN "Wild Spain" we endeavour to describe a little-known land from a point of view hitherto almost unoccupied—that of the sportsman-naturalist. Many books have been written on Spain—some very good ones: but recent volumes chiefly confine themselves to the history, antiquities, architecture, &c., of the country, with their authors' impressions of the Spanish people. Such subjects find no place—save incidentally—in the present work, which systematically avoids the beaten track and essays to depict some of the unknown and more remote regions.
During more than twenty years the authors have undertaken sporting expeditions into various parts of Spain—chiefly in Andalucia, but including, at one time or another, nearly all the western provinces from the Mediterranean to Biscay. A love of wild sport has been, perhaps, the leading motive; but the study of natural history has hardly been of secondary importance. In pursuit of these twin objects we have spared neither time nor trouble, spending weeks—sometimes months—at a time, in the sierras and wildernesses of Spain, bivouacing wherever night overtook us, or the chances of sport might dictate, and camping-out on the glorious snow-clad cordilleras.
Our subjects are the wild-life and ferÆ naturÆ of the Peninsula—including in the latter expression, by a slight stretch of the term, the brigand and the gypsy, with remarks on agriculture as cognate and supplementary. As far as convenient, the sequence of chapters follows the change of the seasons, commencing with spring-time. Hence the earlier part of the book is more concerned with natural history—though the pursuit of ibex and bustard may be followed in spring; while the latter half is more exclusively devoted to sport.
Long residence in Spain has afforded opportunities which are not available to the casual traveller. Especially is this the case with sport, of which we have, at times, enjoyed some of the best that Spain affords. But it should be remarked that many of the shooting campaigns herein described have been on private and preserved grounds; and, while we naturally select the more fortunate records, we pass over in silence many a blank day and fruitless effort. Nearly all ground on which large game is found, is preserved, with the exception of remote parts of the sierras, where wild pig and roe may be shot, and those higher mountain-ranges which form the home of ibex and chamois; moreover, while indicating in general terms the distribution of the various games and other animals, we have in many instances avoided naming precise localities.
In describing a foreign land, it is impossible entirely to avoid the use of foreign terms for which, in many cases, no precise equivalents exist in English: but, to minimize this drawback, we append a glossary of all Spanish words used herein. Conversely, lest Spanish readers should misinterpret the title of this book, we have added a translation in the terms EspaÑa Agreste.
The illustrations consist of reproductions, either from photographs or from rough sketches in pen-and-ink and water-colours by the authors, whose only merit lies in their essaying to represent in their native haunts some of the least-known birds and beasts of Europe, several of which, it is probable, have never before been drawn from the life. If some of these sketches are not as satisfactory as we could have wished, the difficulties under which they were produced may serve as some excuse. At the last moment we have had some of them "translated" in London by Messrs. C. M. Sheldon and A. T. Elwes, and are also indebted to Miss M. E. Crawhall for several sepia-drawings made by her in Spain.
It had been our intention to append a list of the birds of Spain, with their Spanish names and short notes on each species; but this we find would exceed our limits, and moreover the blanks and "missing links" still remain so numerous that we have abandoned—or at least deferred—that part of our programme. This may explain a certain want of continuity or coherence, in an ornithological sense.
We are indebted to Lord Lilford and to Messrs. J. C. Forster and Ralph W. Bankes for several valuable notes and assistance, also to Admiral Sir M. Culme-Seymour for photographs taken in "Wild Spain"; while we cannot sufficiently express our gratitude to Mr. Howard Saunders, who has in the kindest manner gone through the proof-sheets, and whose long experience and intimate knowledge of Spain have been most generously placed within our reach. For any serious mistakes which may remain, the authors must be solely responsible.
December 31st, 1892.
CONTENTS. |
|
CHAPTER I |
PAGE |
An Unknown Corner of Europe. |
Andalucia and her Mountain-barriers. |
i. Introductory | 1 |
ii. Life in the Sierras | 13 |
iii. A night at a Posada | 19 |
CHAPTER II |
A Boar-hunt in the Sierra | 23 |
CHAPTER III |
The Great Bustard | 33 |
CHAPTER IV |
Big days with Bustard. |
i. Jedilla | 46 |
ii. Santo Domingo—an Idyl | 50 |
CHAPTER V |
Tauromachia. |
The Fighting Bull of Spain; |
Notes on his history: his breeds and rearing: and his life up to the encierro—i.e., the eve of his death | 54 |
CHAPTER VI |
The BÆtican Wilderness. |
Spring-notes of bird-life, natural history and exploration in the marisma |
Part i.—April | 70 |
CHAPTER VII |
The BÆtican Wilderness (continued). |
Part ii.—May | 83 |
CHAPTER VIII |
Wild Camels in Europe | 94 |
CHAPTER IX |
Among the Flamingoes. |
Notes on their haunts and habits, and the discovery of their nesting-places | 102 |
CHAPTER X |
Brigandage in Spain. |
Sketches of two Robber-types. |
i. Vizco el Borje | 116 |
ii. Agua Dulce | 124 |
CHAPTER XI |
The Spanish Ibex. |
Notes on its natural history, haunts, habits and distribution | 128 |
CHAPTER XII |
Ibex-shooting in Spain. |
i. Sierra de Gredos (Old Castile) | 140 |
ii. Riscos de Valderejo | 150 |
CHAPTER XIII |
Ibex-shooting in Spain (continued). |
iii. Sierra Bermeja (Mediterranean) | 157 |
iv. Nevada and the Alpujarras. Ten days in a snow-cave | 166 |
CHAPTER XIV |
Trout and Trouting in Spain. |
i. Castile, etc. | 173 |
ii. SantandÉr | 179 |
CHAPTER XV |
Trouting in the Asturias and in Leon | 183 |
CHAPTER XVI |
Experiences with Eagles. |
i. Forest and plain | 188 |
CHAPTER XVII |
Further Experiences with Eagles and Vultures. |
ii. Chiefly relating to the Sierra | 205 |
CHAPTER XVIII |
On Spanish Agriculture. |
i. Cereals, green crops, etc. | 220 |
CHAPTER XIX |
On Spanish Agriculture (continued). |
ii. The olive | 231 |
iii. Horse-breeding and live stock | 233 |
iv. Supplement | 236 |
CHAPTER XX |
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time. |
i. The pinales, or pine-region | 238 |
CHAPTER XXI |
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued). |
ii. The cistus-plains and prairies | 250 |
CHAPTER XXII |
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued). |
iii. By lake and lagoon | 266 |
CHAPTER XXIII |
The Spanish Gypsy. |
Notes on the history of the "Gitanos" | 277 |
CHAPTER XXIV |
The Spanish Gypsy of to-day | 287 |
CHAPTER XXV |
In Search of the LÄmmergeyer. |
A winter ride in the Sierras | 293 |
CHAPTER XXVI |
The Home of the LÄmmergeyer | 307 |
CHAPTER XXVII |
Ramon and the two big Rams. |
An incident of Ibex-stalking | 316 |
CHAPTER XXVIII |
The Ibex-hunter's Betrothal | 320 |
CHAPTER XXIX |
On Viticulture in Spain and Portugal | 325 |
CHAPTER XXX |
Some further Notes on the Great Bustard. |
His natural history and habits | 338 |
CHAPTER XXXI |
The Little Bustard | 343 |
CHAPTER XXXII |
A Winter Campaign in DoÑana | 348 |
CHAPTER XXXIII |
Wildfowling in the Wilderness. |
i. A wet winter | 371 |
CHAPTER XXXIV |
Wildfowling in the Wilderness (continued). |
ii. A dry season (flight-shooting) | 384 |
iii. An Arctic winter | 392 |
CHAPTER XXXV |
The Stanchion-gun in Spain | 395 |
CHAPTER XXXVI |
Deer-driving in the Pine-forests. |
My first stag | 405 |
CHAPTER XXXVII |
Winter in the Marshes. |
i. Snipe-shooting | 417 |
ii. Cranes, storks, and bitterns | 420 |
iii. Miscellaneous marsh-birds | 424 |
CHAPTER XXXVIII |
Deer-stalking and "Still-hunting." |
On the Southern plains | 428 |
|
APPENDIX. |
PART I. |
The Large Game of Spain and Portugal, |
With notes on other Spanish Mammalia | 437 |
Red Deer | 437 |
Fallow Deer | 438 |
The Roebuck in Spain | 439 |
The Spanish Ibex | 440 |
The Chamois | 441 |
The Bear | 442 |
Wild Boar | 443 |
Wolf and Fox | 444-5 |
Spanish Lynx | 446 |
Smaller beasts | 447 et seq. |
PART II. |
Spring-migrants To Spain, |
With dates of arrival, etc., in Andalucia | 450 |
PART III. |
i. Spring-notes in Navarre | 454 |
ii. Supplementary notes on birds (Southern Spain) | 457 |
GLOSSARY. |
INDEX. |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. |
PLATE NO. | PAGE |
i. | Map of Spain and Portugal | Frontispiece |
An Andaluz | 3 |
A Granadino | 4 |
Basque peasant | 5 |
ii. | Relics of the Moors—Ruins of the Watch-tower of Melgarejo | To face 6 |
Fair Sevillanas | 8 |
A choza: the home of the Andalucian peasant | 13 |
iii. | Pair of Civil Guards—Jerez | To face 14 |
A water-seller | 18 |
iv. | Daughters of Andalucia | To face 19 |
Dancers with castanets | 20 |
A village posada | 21 |
"Furniture" | 25 |
Our quarters in the Sierra | 26 |
A straight charge (wild boar) | 30 |
v. | "That old tusker" (wild boar) | To face 31 |
A mule with trappings | 32 |
vi. | Bustards on the barrens—winter;—a first shade of suspicion | To face 33 |
vii. | Watering the cattle—summer-time | To face 35 |
Great Bustard—echando la rueda | 39 |
viii. | Bustard-driving—the pack come "well in" | To face 40 |
Great Bustards—an April dawn | 43 |
ix. | " " —among the spring-corn | To face 48 |
The Bustard-shooter—triumph! | 51 |
x. | Ancient draw-well on the plains | To face 52 |
xi. | Bulls on the plains | To face 57 |
xii. | The morn of the Fight—Bulls in the toril (Miura's breed) | To face 61 |
xiii. | The Encierro | To face 65 |
A Bull-fighter | 66 |
A Matador | 68 |
Fishing-boat on the Guadalquivir | 78 |
Flamingoes | 74, 102 and 115 |
Avocets | 77, 82 and 87 |
Stilts | 70, 86 and 92 |
xiv. | Booted Eagle | To face 81 |
xv. | Pintailed Sand-Grouse | To face 85 |
Grey Plovers—summer-plumage | 89 |
xvi. | The Spanish Wild Camels—our first sight of a couple in the marisma | To face 94 |
xvii. | Wild Camels—seen through the binoculars | To face 98 |
Flamingoes on feed | 104 |
A right-and-left at Flamingoes | 106 |
Spanish Lynx | 107 |
A toilet in the wilderness (Flamingoes) | 109 |
Flamingoes and nests | 111 |
xviii. | Flamingoes on their nests | To face 112 |
Civil Guards—a sketch from life | 121 |
Draw-well at the Zumajo, near Jerez | 127 |
Spanish Ibex, Old Ram—Sierra de Gredos | 131 |
—— —— —— Sierra Nevada | 133, 135, and 170 |
xix. | On the crags of AlmanzÓr (Ibex) | To face 137 |
Old olive-trees near Talavera | 139 |
xx. | Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra de Gredos | To face 141 |
Our first old Ram | 145 |
xxi. | Ibex-hunting—the two old Rams at the "Cannon-Rock" | To face 148 |
The peaks of Gredos | 149 |
xxii. | Our camp on the Riscos de Valderejo | To face 152 |
Ibex-hunters of Gredos—a sketch by the camp-fire | 154 |
Ibex, female—Riscos de Valderejo | 155 |
—— —— Bermeja | 158 |
xxiii. | Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra Bermeja | To face 161 |
Forest Ibex, old Ram—Bermeja | 164 |
Trout | 175, 182, and 186 |
Chamois | 179 and 442 |
Spanish Imperial Eagle | 190, 198, and 219 |
—— —— (Spotted stage) | 193 |
—— —— The Eagle's swoop | 262 |
Tawny Eagle | 195 |
Black Vulture | 201 and 202 |
At roost—Serpent-Eagles | 204 |
xxiv. | A Vulture's banquet | To face 206 |
Griffon Vulture and nest—Puerta de Palomas | 208 |
Strange neighbours (Vultures and Storks) | 209 |
xxv. | "Where the carcase is" | To face 213 |
Bonelli's Eagle (adult) | 217 and 383 |
xxvi. | Ploughing with oxen | To face 221 |
Wooden ploughshare | 224 |
xxvii. | The harvest-field | To face 225 |
xxviii. | Threshing corn with mares | To face 226 |
xxix. | Winnowing | To face 228 |
"Waiting for death" (old olive-trees) | 232 |
xxx. | Kites and Marsh-Harriers | To face 242 |
xxxi. | Sand-dunes and Corrales of DoÑana | To face 245 |
Hoopoes | 248 |
A serenade (Red-leg Partridge) | 251 |
Azure-winged Magpies | 258 |
Eyed Lizard and Serpent-Eagle | 260 |
Black Stork | 265 |
xxxii. | Mallards and Ferruginous Ducks—Alamillo | To face 268 |
xxxiii. | White-fronted Ducks—Santolalla | To face 270 |
Buff-backed Heron | 83 and 272 |
Marsh-Harrier—very old male | 274 |
Summer evening—Owls and Moths | 276 |
xxxiv. | Dancers at Granada—the Bolero | To face 289 |
Gypsy lad | 290 |
Gypsy dance | 292 |
LÄmmergeyer—a first impression | 295 |
Dance and guitar | 297 |
Griffon Vulture (a sketch from life) | 303 |
"Roses in Spain" | 306 |
xxxv. | LÄmmergeyer—a sketch from life in the Sierra Bermeja | To face 309 |
Our quarters at Guentar del Rio | 312 |
Ibex-head—Sierra de Gredos | 319 |
xxxvi. | Vineyard and gateway | To face 325 |
Vines in March (Jerez) | 326 |
xxxvii. | In a Jerez Bodega | To face 328 |
xxxviii. | Irrigation by the noria, or water-wheel | To face 334 |
A vineyard at Jerez | 336 |
Great Bustards | 337 and 340 |
Little Bustards—May | 345 |
xxxix. | A Spanish jungle—The Angosturas | To face 348 |
Fishing-boats | 349 |
xl. | Palacio de DoÑana | To face 350 |
xli. | Breakfast-time—DoÑana | To face 352 |
A royal head—DoÑana | 354 |
Dead Lynx | 355 |
Group of forest-guards | 357 |
Pannier-pony and game | 358 |
Spanish Red Deer—a mountain-head from Morena | 360 and 430 |
—— a stag of thirteen points | 363 |
xlii. | Spanish wildfowlers approaching duck with cabresto ponies | To face 365 |
xliii. | A shot in the open (Red Deer) | To face 367 |
Wild Boar—an old tusker | 368 |
xliv. | Salavar—a sketch in a Spanish Mancha | To face 369 |
xlv. | Wildfowling with cabrestos— |
—— —— No. 1. The approach | To face 372 |
xlvi. | —— —— No. 2. The shot | To face 374 |
xliii. | xlviii. —— —— No. 3. The result | To face 381 |
"Anseres son!" | 377 |
Greylag Geese flighting—daybreak | 378 |
xlii. | Grey Geese and Wigeon—midday | To face 378 |
Marsh-Harrier (young) | 380 |
xlix. | "The farewell shot" | To face 382 |
Mallards | 387 |
Grey Geese | 390 and 391 |
l. | Redshanks (101 and) | To face 393 |
Stilts | 396 and 404 |
Little Gull and Tern | 398 |
li. | "A hundred at a shot—now or never!" | To face 400 |
"The Biter and the Bit" (Harrier and Teal) | 401 |
lii. | La Marismilla—a shooting morning | To face 405 |
Spanish guns | 411 |
"The eleven-pointer" (Red Deer) | 413 |
A fifteen-pointer (Red Deer) | 414 |
"Dropped in his tracks" (Wild Boar) | 416 |
Stork's nest—The Banderas, Seville | 422 |
—— —— on straw-stack | 459 |
Spanish Lynx | 436 |
Spanish Ibex—Five-year-old Rams | 440 |