PREFACE.

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IN "Wild Spain" we endeavour to describe a little-known land from a point of view hitherto almost unoccupied—that of the sportsman-naturalist. Many books have been written on Spain—some very good ones: but recent volumes chiefly confine themselves to the history, antiquities, architecture, &c., of the country, with their authors' impressions of the Spanish people. Such subjects find no place—save incidentally—in the present work, which systematically avoids the beaten track and essays to depict some of the unknown and more remote regions.

During more than twenty years the authors have undertaken sporting expeditions into various parts of Spain—chiefly in Andalucia, but including, at one time or another, nearly all the western provinces from the Mediterranean to Biscay. A love of wild sport has been, perhaps, the leading motive; but the study of natural history has hardly been of secondary importance. In pursuit of these twin objects we have spared neither time nor trouble, spending weeks—sometimes months—at a time, in the sierras and wildernesses of Spain, bivouacing wherever night overtook us, or the chances of sport might dictate, and camping-out on the glorious snow-clad cordilleras.

Our subjects are the wild-life and ferÆ naturÆ of the Peninsula—including in the latter expression, by a slight stretch of the term, the brigand and the gypsy, with remarks on agriculture as cognate and supplementary. As far as convenient, the sequence of chapters follows the change of the seasons, commencing with spring-time. Hence the earlier part of the book is more concerned with natural history—though the pursuit of ibex and bustard may be followed in spring; while the latter half is more exclusively devoted to sport.

Long residence in Spain has afforded opportunities which are not available to the casual traveller. Especially is this the case with sport, of which we have, at times, enjoyed some of the best that Spain affords. But it should be remarked that many of the shooting campaigns herein described have been on private and preserved grounds; and, while we naturally select the more fortunate records, we pass over in silence many a blank day and fruitless effort. Nearly all ground on which large game is found, is preserved, with the exception of remote parts of the sierras, where wild pig and roe may be shot, and those higher mountain-ranges which form the home of ibex and chamois; moreover, while indicating in general terms the distribution of the various games and other animals, we have in many instances avoided naming precise localities.

In describing a foreign land, it is impossible entirely to avoid the use of foreign terms for which, in many cases, no precise equivalents exist in English: but, to minimize this drawback, we append a glossary of all Spanish words used herein. Conversely, lest Spanish readers should misinterpret the title of this book, we have added a translation in the terms EspaÑa Agreste.

The illustrations consist of reproductions, either from photographs or from rough sketches in pen-and-ink and water-colours by the authors, whose only merit lies in their essaying to represent in their native haunts some of the least-known birds and beasts of Europe, several of which, it is probable, have never before been drawn from the life. If some of these sketches are not as satisfactory as we could have wished, the difficulties under which they were produced may serve as some excuse. At the last moment we have had some of them "translated" in London by Messrs. C. M. Sheldon and A. T. Elwes, and are also indebted to Miss M. E. Crawhall for several sepia-drawings made by her in Spain.

It had been our intention to append a list of the birds of Spain, with their Spanish names and short notes on each species; but this we find would exceed our limits, and moreover the blanks and "missing links" still remain so numerous that we have abandoned—or at least deferred—that part of our programme. This may explain a certain want of continuity or coherence, in an ornithological sense.

We are indebted to Lord Lilford and to Messrs. J. C. Forster and Ralph W. Bankes for several valuable notes and assistance, also to Admiral Sir M. Culme-Seymour for photographs taken in "Wild Spain"; while we cannot sufficiently express our gratitude to Mr. Howard Saunders, who has in the kindest manner gone through the proof-sheets, and whose long experience and intimate knowledge of Spain have been most generously placed within our reach. For any serious mistakes which may remain, the authors must be solely responsible.

December 31st, 1892.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I
PAGE
An Unknown Corner of Europe.
Andalucia and her Mountain-barriers.
i. Introductory 1
ii. Life in the Sierras 13
iii. A night at a Posada 19
CHAPTER II
A Boar-hunt in the Sierra 23
CHAPTER III
The Great Bustard 33
CHAPTER IV
Big days with Bustard.
i. Jedilla 46
ii. Santo Domingo—an Idyl 50
CHAPTER V
Tauromachia.
The Fighting Bull of Spain;
Notes on his history: his breeds and rearing: and his
life up to the encierroi.e., the eve of his death
54
CHAPTER VI
The BÆtican Wilderness.
Spring-notes of bird-life, natural history and exploration in the marisma
Part i.—April 70
CHAPTER VII
The BÆtican Wilderness (continued).
Part ii.—May 83
CHAPTER VIII
Wild Camels in Europe 94
CHAPTER IX
Among the Flamingoes.
Notes on their haunts and habits, and the discovery of their nesting-places 102
CHAPTER X
Brigandage in Spain.
Sketches of two Robber-types.
i. Vizco el Borje 116
ii. Agua Dulce 124
CHAPTER XI
The Spanish Ibex.
Notes on its natural history, haunts, habits and distribution 128
CHAPTER XII
Ibex-shooting in Spain.
i. Sierra de Gredos (Old Castile) 140
ii. Riscos de Valderejo 150
CHAPTER XIII
Ibex-shooting in Spain (continued).
iii. Sierra Bermeja (Mediterranean) 157
iv. Nevada and the Alpujarras. Ten days in a snow-cave 166
CHAPTER XIV
Trout and Trouting in Spain.
i. Castile, etc. 173
ii. SantandÉr 179
CHAPTER XV
Trouting in the Asturias and in Leon 183
CHAPTER XVI
Experiences with Eagles.
i. Forest and plain 188
CHAPTER XVII
Further Experiences with Eagles and Vultures.
ii. Chiefly relating to the Sierra 205
CHAPTER XVIII
On Spanish Agriculture.
i. Cereals, green crops, etc. 220
CHAPTER XIX
On Spanish Agriculture (continued).
ii. The olive 231
iii. Horse-breeding and live stock 233
iv. Supplement 236
CHAPTER XX
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time.
i. The pinales, or pine-region 238
CHAPTER XXI
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued).
ii. The cistus-plains and prairies 250
CHAPTER XXII
Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued).
iii. By lake and lagoon 266
CHAPTER XXIII
The Spanish Gypsy.
Notes on the history of the "Gitanos" 277
CHAPTER XXIV
The Spanish Gypsy of to-day 287
CHAPTER XXV
In Search of the LÄmmergeyer.
A winter ride in the Sierras 293
CHAPTER XXVI
The Home of the LÄmmergeyer 307
CHAPTER XXVII
Ramon and the two big Rams.
An incident of Ibex-stalking 316
CHAPTER XXVIII
The Ibex-hunter's Betrothal 320
CHAPTER XXIX
On Viticulture in Spain and Portugal 325
CHAPTER XXX
Some further Notes on the Great Bustard.
His natural history and habits 338
CHAPTER XXXI
The Little Bustard 343
CHAPTER XXXII
A Winter Campaign in DoÑana 348
CHAPTER XXXIII
Wildfowling in the Wilderness.
i. A wet winter 371
CHAPTER XXXIV
Wildfowling in the Wilderness (continued).
ii. A dry season (flight-shooting) 384
iii. An Arctic winter 392
CHAPTER XXXV
The Stanchion-gun in Spain 395
CHAPTER XXXVI
Deer-driving in the Pine-forests.
My first stag 405
CHAPTER XXXVII
Winter in the Marshes.
i. Snipe-shooting 417
ii. Cranes, storks, and bitterns 420
iii. Miscellaneous marsh-birds 424
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Deer-stalking and "Still-hunting."
On the Southern plains 428
APPENDIX.
PART I.
The Large Game of Spain and Portugal,
With notes on other Spanish Mammalia 437
Red Deer 437
Fallow Deer 438
The Roebuck in Spain 439
The Spanish Ibex 440
The Chamois 441
The Bear 442
Wild Boar 443
Wolf and Fox 444-5
Spanish Lynx 446
Smaller beasts 447 et seq.
PART II.
Spring-migrants To Spain,
With dates of arrival, etc., in Andalucia 450
PART III.
i. Spring-notes in Navarre 454
ii. Supplementary notes on birds (Southern Spain) 457
GLOSSARY.
INDEX.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PLATE NO. PAGE
i. Map of Spain and Portugal Frontispiece
An Andaluz 3
A Granadino 4
Basque peasant 5
ii. Relics of the Moors—Ruins of the Watch-tower of Melgarejo To face 6
Fair Sevillanas 8
A choza: the home of the Andalucian peasant 13
iii. Pair of Civil Guards—Jerez To face 14
A water-seller 18
iv. Daughters of Andalucia To face 19
Dancers with castanets 20
A village posada 21
"Furniture" 25
Our quarters in the Sierra 26
A straight charge (wild boar) 30
v. "That old tusker" (wild boar) To face 31
A mule with trappings 32
vi. Bustards on the barrens—winter;—a first shade of
suspicion
To face 33
vii. Watering the cattle—summer-time To face 35
Great Bustard—echando la rueda 39
viii. Bustard-driving—the pack come "well in" To face 40
Great Bustards—an April dawn 43
ix. " " —among the spring-corn To face 48
The Bustard-shooter—triumph! 51
x. Ancient draw-well on the plains To face 52
xi. Bulls on the plains To face 57
xii. The morn of the Fight—Bulls in the toril (Miura's
breed)
To face 61
xiii. The Encierro To face 65
A Bull-fighter 66
A Matador 68
Fishing-boat on the Guadalquivir 78
Flamingoes 74, 102 and 115
Avocets 77, 82 and 87
Stilts 70, 86 and 92
xiv. Booted Eagle To face 81
xv. Pintailed Sand-Grouse To face 85
Grey Plovers—summer-plumage 89
xvi. The Spanish Wild Camels—our first sight of a couple in the marisma To face 94
xvii. Wild Camels—seen through the binoculars To face 98
Flamingoes on feed 104
A right-and-left at Flamingoes 106
Spanish Lynx 107
A toilet in the wilderness (Flamingoes) 109
Flamingoes and nests 111
xviii. Flamingoes on their nests To face 112
Civil Guards—a sketch from life 121
Draw-well at the Zumajo, near Jerez 127
Spanish Ibex, Old Ram—Sierra de Gredos 131
—— —— —— Sierra Nevada 133, 135, and 170
xix. On the crags of AlmanzÓr (Ibex) To face 137
Old olive-trees near Talavera 139
xx. Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra de Gredos To face 141
Our first old Ram 145
xxi. Ibex-hunting—the two old Rams at the "Cannon-Rock" To face 148
The peaks of Gredos 149
xxii. Our camp on the Riscos de Valderejo To face 152
Ibex-hunters of Gredos—a sketch by the camp-fire 154
Ibex, female—Riscos de Valderejo 155
—— —— Bermeja 158
xxiii. Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra Bermeja To face 161
Forest Ibex, old Ram—Bermeja 164
Trout 175, 182, and 186
Chamois 179 and 442
Spanish Imperial Eagle 190, 198, and 219
—— —— (Spotted stage) 193
—— —— The Eagle's swoop 262
Tawny Eagle 195
Black Vulture 201 and 202
At roost—Serpent-Eagles 204
xxiv. A Vulture's banquet To face 206
Griffon Vulture and nest—Puerta de Palomas 208
Strange neighbours (Vultures and Storks) 209
xxv. "Where the carcase is" To face 213
Bonelli's Eagle (adult) 217 and 383
xxvi. Ploughing with oxen To face 221
Wooden ploughshare 224
xxvii. The harvest-field To face 225
xxviii. Threshing corn with mares To face 226
xxix. Winnowing To face 228
"Waiting for death" (old olive-trees) 232
xxx. Kites and Marsh-Harriers To face 242
xxxi. Sand-dunes and Corrales of DoÑana To face 245
Hoopoes 248
A serenade (Red-leg Partridge) 251
Azure-winged Magpies 258
Eyed Lizard and Serpent-Eagle 260
Black Stork 265
xxxii. Mallards and Ferruginous Ducks—Alamillo To face 268
xxxiii. White-fronted Ducks—Santolalla To face 270
Buff-backed Heron 83 and 272
Marsh-Harrier—very old male 274
Summer evening—Owls and Moths 276
xxxiv. Dancers at Granada—the Bolero To face 289
Gypsy lad 290
Gypsy dance 292
LÄmmergeyer—a first impression 295
Dance and guitar 297
Griffon Vulture (a sketch from life) 303
"Roses in Spain" 306
xxxv. LÄmmergeyer—a sketch from life in the Sierra Bermeja To face 309
Our quarters at Guentar del Rio 312
Ibex-head—Sierra de Gredos 319
xxxvi. Vineyard and gateway To face 325
Vines in March (Jerez) 326
xxxvii. In a Jerez Bodega To face 328
xxxviii. Irrigation by the noria, or water-wheel To face 334
A vineyard at Jerez 336
Great Bustards 337 and 340
Little Bustards—May 345
xxxix. A Spanish jungle—The Angosturas To face 348
Fishing-boats 349
xl. Palacio de DoÑana To face 350
xli. Breakfast-time—DoÑana To face 352
A royal head—DoÑana 354
Dead Lynx 355
Group of forest-guards 357
Pannier-pony and game 358
Spanish Red Deer—a mountain-head from Morena 360 and 430
—— a stag of thirteen points 363
xlii. Spanish wildfowlers approaching duck with cabresto
ponies
To face 365
xliii. A shot in the open (Red Deer) To face 367
Wild Boar—an old tusker 368
xliv. Salavar—a sketch in a Spanish Mancha To face 369
xlv. Wildfowling with cabrestos
—— —— No. 1. The approach To face 372
xlvi. —— —— No. 2. The shot To face 374
xliii. xlviii. —— —— No. 3. The result To face 381
"Anseres son!" 377
Greylag Geese flighting—daybreak 378
xlii. Grey Geese and Wigeon—midday To face 378
Marsh-Harrier (young) 380
xlix. "The farewell shot" To face 382
Mallards 387
Grey Geese 390 and 391
l. Redshanks (101 and) To face 393
Stilts 396 and 404
Little Gull and Tern 398
li. "A hundred at a shot—now or never!" To face 400
"The Biter and the Bit" (Harrier and Teal) 401
lii. La Marismilla—a shooting morning To face 405
Spanish guns 411
"The eleven-pointer" (Red Deer) 413
A fifteen-pointer (Red Deer) 414
"Dropped in his tracks" (Wild Boar) 416
Stork's nest—The Banderas, Seville 422
—— —— on straw-stack 459
Spanish Lynx 436
Spanish Ibex—Five-year-old Rams 440

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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