[1] Catalonia was a separate State, under independent rulers, the Counts of Barcelona, until A.D. 1131, when it was merged in the Kingdom of Arragon.

[2] The term “Moor” has always seemed to us a trifle unfortunate, as tending to indicate that the conquering race came from Morocco—“Turks” or “Arabs” would have been a more appropriate title. For fifty years after the conquest Spain was governed by Emirs subject to the Kaliphs of Damascus, the first independent power being wielded by the Emir Abderahman III. who, in 777, usurped the title of Kaliph of Cordoba. That kaliphate, by the way, during its earlier splendours, became the centre of universal culture, Cordoba being the intellectual capital of the world, with a population that has been stated at two millions.

[3] For the information of readers who have not studied the subject, it may be well to add that, during the early years of the seventeenth century, something like a million of Spanish Moors—the most industrious of its inhabitants—were either massacred in Spain or expelled from the country.

[4] At a big hotel the menu on May 26 included (as usual) “partridges.” We emphasised a mild protest by refusing to eat them; but the landlord scored with both barrels. On opening our luncheon-basket next day (we had a twelve-hours’ railway journey), there were the rejected redlegs! We had to eat them then—or starve!

[5] We have seen an exception to this in the mountain villages of the Castiles, where on fiesta nights a sort of rude valse is danced in the open street.

[6] By their peculiar style of aviation these birds, swaying up and down and swerving on zigzag courses, alternately expose a scintillating crimson mass suddenly flashing into a cloud of black and rosy white—according as their brilliant wing-plumage or their white bodies are presented to the eye. “A flame of fire” is the Arab signification of their name flamenco.

[7] No offence to our scientific friends aforesaid. We recognise their argument and respect its thoroughness, though regarding it as occasionally misdirected. Possibly in their splendid zeal they overlook the danger of reducing scientific classification to a mere monopoly confined to a few score of professors, specialists, and cabinet-naturalists, instead of serving as an aid and general guide (as is surely its true intention) to thousands of less learned students. Over-elaboration is apt to beget chaos.

[8] We have known the spoor of a wounded stag pass beneath strong interlacing branches so low that, in following, we have had to wriggle under on hands and knees. The spoor showed there had been no such cervine necessity.

[9] Weight, clean, two days killed, 78 kilos = 180 lbs.

[10] There are sand-lizards identical in colour with the sand itself—pale yellow or drab, adorned with wavy black lines closely resembling the wind-waves on the sand.

[11] There are, of course, exceptions, such as golden plovers, ruffs, dunlin, godwits, knots, that do assume a vernal dress.

[12] This, the southernmost form of the green woodpecker, has much the most ringing voice. The closely allied northern form, G. canus, that one hears constantly in Norway, utters but a sharp monosyllabic note. A second curious fact may here be mentioned: that the great grey shrike, just named, Lanius meridionalis, is resident in Spain throughout the year, while the closely allied and almost identical L. excubitor breeds exclusively in the far north (chiefly within the Arctic) and only descends to England in winter. Besides the harsh note mentioned above, the southern shrike, in spring, utters a piping whistle not unlike a golden plover.

[13] This is only the second instance in thirty or forty years of a wounded or “bayed” stag killing a dog. In the Culata del Faro, we remember, many years ago, a stag shot through the lungs, and which was brought to bay close behind the writer’s post, tossing a podenco clean over its head, and so injuring it that the dog had to be destroyed at once.

[14] The initials are those of our late friend Colonel Brymer of Ilsington, Dorset, formerly M.P. for that county, and who was a frequent visitor to Spain, where, alas! his death occurred while we write this chapter (May 1909). A unique exploit of the Colonel’s during his last shooting-trip may fitly be recorded. On February 5, 1909, at the Culata del Faginado, four big stags broke in a clump past his post on a pine-crowned ridge in the forest. Two he dropped right and left; then reloading one barrel, killed a third ere the survivors had vanished from sight. These three stags carried thirty-four points, the best head taping 30½ inches by 27 inches in width, and 4½ inches basal circumference.

[15] Not a single accident, great or small, has occurred during the authors’ long tenure of the Coto DoÑana.

[16] See On Safari, by Abel Chapman, pp. 216-17. The Spanish term Ronda may roughly be translated as “rounding-up.”

[17] At the date in question (end of November) it is, of course, possible that this immigration was proceeding, not from the north, but from the south. That is, that these were fowl which, on their first arrival in Spain in September and October, had found the marisma untenable from lack of water, and had in consequence passed on into Africa, whence they were now returning, on the changed weather. But be that as it may, the route above indicated is that invariably followed by the north-bred wildfowl on their first arrival in Spain.

[18] This was in earlier days. Later on we developed a flotilla of flat-bottomed canoes expressly adapted to this service. A photo of one of these is annexed.

[19] See Instructions to Young Sportsmen, by P. Hawker, second edition (1816), pp. 229, 230.

[20] In the big and deep lucios no plant-life exists, nor could surface-feeding ducks reach down to it even if subaquatic herbage of any kind did grow there.

[21] We have here in our mind’s eye our own shooting-grounds in the BÆtican marismas. But there are other regions in Andalucia where geese feed on open grassy plains on which shelter of some sort is often available. It may be but a clump of dead thistles or wild asparagus; but at happy times a friendly ditch or dry watercourse will yield quite a decent hollow where one can hide in comparative comfort and security. On the day here described no such “advantage” befriended.

[22] The scarcity of diving-ducks is explained by these having all been shot in the shallow, open marisma. In the deeper waters, such as Santolalla, common and white-eyed pochards, tufted ducks, etc., abound.

[23] The Montes de Toledo comprise some of the best big-game country in Spain and include several of her most famous preserves; such, for example, as the Coto de CabaÑeros belonging to the Conde de Valdelagrana, El Castillo, a domain of the Duke of Castillejos, and Zumajo of the Marques de Alventos. The Duke of AriÓn possesses a wild tract inhabited by fallow-deer.

[24] Thirteen wolves were killed thus (and recovered) on the property of the Marquis del MÉrito in the winter of 1906-7.

[25] Similarly the half-wild cattle of Spain leave their new-born calves concealed in some bush or palmetto, the mother going off for a whole day and only returning at sunset.

[26] Photos given in Wild Spain.

[27] We exclude from consideration all deer that are winter-fed or otherwise assisted, and of course all that have been “improved” by crosses with extraneous blood. These mountain deer of Spain are true native aborigines, unaltered and living the same wild life as they lived here in Roman days and in ages before.

[28] We here use the term hound or dog indiscriminately as, in the altering circumstances, each is equally applicable and correct

[29] I never myself count shots, hits or misses—horas non numero. The above record is solely due to the inception by our gracious hostess at Mezquitillas of a pretty custom, namely, that for every bullet fired, a small sum should be payable by the sportsman towards a local charity.

[30] The oleander is poisonous to horses and other domestic animals, and is instinctively avoided by both game and cattle. During the Peninsular War it is recorded that several British soldiers came by their deaths through this cause. A foraging party cut and peeled some oleander branches to use as skewers in roasting meat over the camp-fires. Of twelve men who ate the meat, seven died.

[31] Pernales was born at Estepa, province of Sevilla, September 3, 1878, a ne’er-do-weel son of honest, rural parents. By 1906 he had become notorious as a determined criminal. His appearance and Machiavellian instincts were interpreted as indicating great personal courage, and, united with his physique, combined to present a repulsive and menacing figure. A huge head set on broad chest and shoulders, with red hair and deep-set blue eyes, a livid freckled complexion, thin eyebrows, and one long tusk always visible, protruding from a horrid mouth, made up a sufficiently characteristic ensemble.

[32] The authors personally assisted at this toilet, Talavera, May 1891.

[33] The oft-described details of the bull-fight we omit; but should any reader care to peruse an impartial description thereof, written by one of the co-authors of the present work, such will be found in the EncyclopÆdia of Sport, vol. i. p. 151.

[34] In particular, remembering an incident that had occurred here in 1891, and recorded in Wild Spain, p. 147, we were anxious to ascertain if the lemming, or any relative of his, still survived in these central Spanish cordilleras. The marmot is another possible inhabitant.

[35] For these, as well as graphic notes on the subject, we are indebted to Sr. D. Manuel F. de AmezÚa, the most experienced and intrepid explorer of the Sierra de GrÉdos.

[36] This range is, in fact, a northern outspur of the Montes de Toledo, which occupy the whole space betwixt Tagus and Guadiana. Its highest peak, La Cabeza del Moro, reaches 5110 feet.

[37] Wild fallow-deer are indigenous among the infinite scrub-clad hills that fringe the course of the Tagus, as well as in various dehesas in the province of Caceres—those of Las Corchuelas and de Valero may be specified. The wild fallow are larger and finer animals than the others.

[38] Immediately adjoining the south approach to the bridge over the AlagÓn is sculptured on the bluff a heraldic device representing a figure plucking a pomegranate (Granada) from a tree—the arms of Granadilla. There is an inscription, with date, beneath; but these we failed to decipher.

[39] Diccionario geografico, estadistico, y historico de EspaÑa, by Pascual Madoz (Madrid, 1845).

[40] A later Spanish work, the Diccionario enciclopedico hispano-americano (Barcelona, 1892), regards some of Pascual Madoz’s descriptions as over-coloured and exaggerated. Our own observation, however, rather tended to confirm his views and to show that subsequent amelioration exists rather in name than in fact.

[41] The Hurdanos, we were told, make bad soldiers. Being despised by their comrades, they are only employed on the menial work of the barracks. Many, from long desuetude, are unable to wear boots.

[42] The white on a bustard’s plumage exceeds in its intensity that of almost any other bird we know. It is a dead white, without shade or the least symptom of any second tint so usual a feature in white.

[43] Avetarda is old Spanish, the modern spelling being Abutarda.

[44] A large number of horsemen inevitably excites suspicion in game unaccustomed to see more than three or four men together.

[45] The horses, if ground permits, may be utilised as “stops” to extreme right and left of the drive, otherwise they must be concealed in some convenient hollow in charge of a boy or two.

[46] We know of no other bird that increases thus in weight anticipatory of the breeding-season, nor are we at all sure that it is the swollen neck that explains that increase.

[47] We have never succeeded in inducing our tame bustards to breed in captivity.

[48] Dampier, New Voyage round the World, 2nd ed., i. p. 71; London, 1699.

[49] Dampier’s visit to the Cape de Verde Islands took place in September, when, of course, flamingoes would not be nesting.

[50] We also observed in Equatoria a second species, smaller and red all over, Phoenicopterus minor. This, however, was far less numerous; the great bulk of East-African flamingoes were the common Ph. roseus.

[51] It is right to add that in America the growth of mangrove and other bushes, sometimes in close proximity to the nests, offers facilities to the photographer that are wholly wanting in Spain, where the flamingo only nests in perfectly open waters devoid of the slightest covert or means of concealment.

[52] Gaitero is the word used. The gaita is a musical instrument which we may translate as bagpipes.

[53] For notes on these subjects, we are indebted to Mr. Carl D. Williams.

[54] Boabdil, we read, was a keen hunter, and during his sojourn at Besmer frequently spent weeks at a time among the mountains with his hawks and hounds.

[55] La Alpujarra, by Don Pedro A. de AlarcÓn (4th edition, Madrid, 1903).

[56] Several of these animals, moreover, yield excellent fur.

[57] These mountains are believed to overlie vast store of subterranean wealth in the form of petroleum. Geologists seem agreed upon that; but they differ as to the precise locality of the treasure or whence it may most conveniently be exploited.

[58] We have a number of pinsÁpos growing in Northumberland. They were planted some ten years ago on a cold northern exposure, and are now flourishing vigorously, some having reached a height of eight or ten feet. Nearly all tend to throw up numerous “leaders” as described.

[59] PinsÁpo timber is fairly hard, but too “knotty” for general purposes, and it is useless for charcoal. Yet these glorious forests are being sacrificed wholesale because the wood affords “good kindling” for the charcoal-furnace—can wasteful wantonness further go? That the only existing forests of the kind on earth should be ruthlessly destroyed for no single object but to provide kindling passes understanding.

[60] We mention, parenthetically, certain birds observed at end of March on that alpine meadow (4800 feet), as follows:—One ring-ouzel, a pair of common wheatears, woodlarks, and Dartford warblers—all, no doubt, on migration—besides, of course, blackchats, blue thrushes, etc. A month later the beautiful rock-thrush had come to grace the desolation with lilting flight and song, and tawny pipits ran blithely among the rocks.

[61] Note that the pellets or “castings” thrown up by vultures are chiefly formed of grass cut up into lengths and compacted with saliva, evidently digestive. We have frequently seen vultures carrying a wisp of grass in their beaks.

[62] The Spanish name of the ibex, Cabra montÉs, signifies, not as might appear, “mountain-goat,” but scrub-goat; and may have originated in this region, or at least from a habit which prevails here though obsolete everywhere else.

[63] Similar results followed on the Laguna de Janda. That great shallow lake abounds in winter with both ducks and geese; but differs from the marismas in being sweet water, hence is not frequented by flamingoes. Another point of difference is that its shores are occupied by wild bulls instead of brood-mares; hence the cabresto-pony is not available. Wildfowl here also proved inaccessible to a gunning-punt on open waters; while wherever reeds or sedge promised some “advantage,” in such places the depth of water was always insufficient to float the lightest of craft within range. The best shot made during four seasons realised but twenty-three (seven geese and sixteen duck)—a paltry total. Occasionally a great bustard was shot from the gunboat.

[64] The word “Corro” applies in Spanish to any noisy group—say a knot of people discussing politics in the street!

[65] One feels convinced, while lying listening, that these exuberant fowl invent and formulate a series of new notes and cries special to the occasion and outside their normal vocabulary. Hence, possibly, originated the use of the term “Corro.”

[66] Corros usually consist (especially the earlier assemblies) of one root-species—others merely “edge in.” The later corros, however, are much mixed. They vary in numbers: one may contain but 200 pairs, another within half-a-mile as many thousands.

[67] Pratincoles cast themselves down flat on the dry mud, fluttering as though in mortal agony—or, say, like a huge butterfly with a pin through its thorax! The device is presumably adopted in order to decoy an intruder away from their eggs or young. This year, however, the pratincoles still practised it, although they had neither eggs nor young at all. One day (May 12) a gale of wind blew some of the deceivers bodily away.

[68] In none were the generative organs more than slightly developed, and in most the plumage was full of new blood-feathers, showing that the summer change was not yet complete. The date, May 10-15. Another drawing is given at p. 42.

[69] Common British birds we exclude from notice, or might fill a page with swarming goldfinches, robins, wrens, chaffinch, blackbird, stonechat, whitethroats, tree-pipits, titlarks (the last three on passage), blackcap, garden-warbler, whinchat, redstart, and a host more.

[70] The African bush-cuckoos, or coucals (Centropus), certainly build their own nests; but they are only related nominally, and the connection is remote.

[71] In Egypt the hooded crow (Corvus cornix) is invariably the cuckoo’s dupe; in Algeria, Pica mauretanica.

[72] We find a note that one Bean-Goose was shot on November 27, 1896—weight 5¼ lbs.

[73] See the elaborate monograph on The Geese of Europe and Asia, by M. Serge AlphÉraky of St. Petersburg (London, Rowland Ward).

[74] One such note may be given as an example:—

“1903.—Examined 40 geese shot January 1 and 2. Legs varied from white and pale flesh-colour to pale yellowish and pink, adults all of the latter colour. Beaks vary from whitish or flesh-colour, through yellow, up to bright orange. A few of the geese, mostly the smaller, young birds, were nearly pure white below: others heavily spotted or barred with black: nearly all (old and young) show signs of a ‘white-front.’”

[75] In Jutland we found some pintails’ nests rather cunningly concealed in holes upon open grassy islets in marine lagoons not unlike our Spanish marismas; others were on bare ground, though occasionally hidden among thistles. Here also the eggs numbered eight or nine. See Ibis, 1894, p. 349.