  Consecration and other interesting particulars of St. Luke’s Church and Burial Ground—Its Monuments, &c.—Rectors, Curates, and Lecturers—Parochial National Schools, &c.—The Workhouse and the Old Burial Ground—The Origin and Condition of the King’s Road in the “Olden Times:”—Its state at the commencement of this Century, together with some notices of the New Buildings, and its thriving Trade at the present Time—Markham Square Congregational Church—Savings’ Bank—Chelsea College—Charles II. and Nell Gwynne—The Royal Military Asylum—Old Ranelagh—The Original Bunhouse—The whole interspersed with many other interesting notices of Distinguished Residents, &c. St. Luke’s Church and the Burial Ground.It will be necessary before we give a description of this beautiful edifice to state some particulars respecting the Burial Ground, or, more properly speaking, the Cemetery, in the centre of which the Church is erected. The Act of Parliament for providing this additional Burial Ground for the parish was passed in 1810, and certain Trustees therein named were appointed to carry it into effect. They accordingly purchased of Earl Cadogan, the Lord of the Manor, a piece of ground, in the present central situation, containing rather more than four acres, and enclosed it with a substantial wall and strong iron railing. As I was present at the consecration of this Burial Ground, and also of the Church, a brief account of which I published at the time, the following particulars I can fully authenticate. With respect to many circumstances which I shall mention, in connexion with the Church, they may be relied upon as being accurately stated from my own personal observation. The preliminary prayers were offered at the Old Church, and the Bishop having declared his assent to the petition presented to him for consecrating the new ground, the procession proceeded from the Church. On their arrival there was an immense assemblage to witness the consecration. The Bishop then perambulated the ground, reading such portions of the Service as is specially appointed, and afterwards completed the consecration in the Chapel. In the year 1819, an Act of Parliament, 59 Geo. III., cap. 35, May 19, was obtained for building a new Church, and the Rector and Churchwardens, and 59 other inhabitants of the parish, were appointed to carry the same into effect. The central portion of the new Burial Ground was appropriated for this purpose, and on the 12th of October, 1820, the first stone of the new Church was laid by the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, as proxy for his brother, the Duke of Wellington, who was prevented from performing the ceremony by receiving “the King’s commands to attend him on public business that day at his palace in Pall Mall.” Many of the vast assemblage of spectators having waited a long time for His Grace’s arrival felt somewhat disappointed, and some of them attributed his absence to the political excitement which prevailed just at that period, but this was far from being the general opinion. A procession was at last formed in the following order:—His Royal Highness the Duke of York’s Band; the Beadles of the Parish; Mr. James Savage, the architect; the Builder, with a silver trowel on a crimson velvet cushion; the Treasurer, with a metal box and sundry coins, and a brass plate, on a velvet cushion. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, supported by the Churchwardens; the Curates and Lecturer of the Parish, and the Trustees appointed under the Act of Parliament for building the Church. The Church is built of Bath stone, in the Gothic style of the 14th century, and is approached by a sweep carriage way and flagged footpath. The west front has an arcade, extending the whole breadth of the frontage. From the centre of this arcade rises a lofty tower, the upper part panelled and crowned with an open battlement. It is strengthened at the four corners by octagonal buttresses, which are finished by open-worked pinnacles, of a form which gives the exterior of the edifice a very picturesque appearance, and when seen at a distance is very attractive. The height from the ground to the top of the pinnacle is 142 feet, and the view from the tower on which these pinnacles rise, affords a very fine view of the parish and its surrounding scenery. From the tower, the body of the building is seen to extend, embraced and supported by its flying buttresses, which stretch their airy fronts from between the Clerestery windows to the outer wall of the side aisles, when they are continued solidly down to the ground. The walls of the side aisles and Clerestery are both finished with perforated parapets of elegant forms. At the eastern end, the principal feature is the altar window, 32 ft. high and 16 ft. wide, divided by mullions into seven bays in width, and four stories in height, exclusive of the pointed arched head, which has a beautiful wheel centre. This end has also two octagonal turrets, the upper stories of which are ornamented with open-worked panels and crocketted domes. There are also two porches communicating with lobbies and staircase, to afford the most ample entrance and exit. In the middle part, and below the great window, the Vestry Room is projected. From the great western arcade you enter by three sets of folding doors to the vestibule, at the sides of which are placed the principal staircases to the galleries. The principal or middle aisle of the Church is entered from the centre of the entrance lobby by lofty folding doors, glazed with plate glass, and as there is no western gallery to project before these doors you have at once the full effect of the interior. In this Church, unlike most others, the western gallery is obtained by a recess over the vestibule, and is principally occupied by a splendid organ by Nicholls, comprising the great organ, choir organ, and swell organ, containing thirty-three stops and 1876 pipes. The organ is considered one of the finest and most powerful in London. The bellows, when charged, contains 70 cubic feet of wind. The inside of the Church is 130 feet long, and 61 feet wide, divided into a nave and two side aisles, separated by clustered columns and pointed arches. The small column in front of the cluster continues up to the vaulted ceiling, and there branches out into numerous ribs, which spread their airy lines in the most graceful manner over the ceiling, tied together at their numerous intersections by carved pendant bosses, the principal light being from the clerestery windows gives an aerial effect to the ceiling, which hardly appears to belong to “mid earth,” although actually built of solid stone, whose power of gravitation appears here to be suspended by the magic of art, of which this is said to be the only instance of the kind attempted for the last 300 years. From the pavement to the crown of the vault is 60 ft., clear height, a greater height than is to be found in any edifice in London, excepting St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. The lofty position of the windows diffuses a clear and A circumstance occurred in reference to these massive and splendid central chandeliers, at nearly the conclusion of one of the Sunday Evening Services, which occasioned great excitement amongst the congregation, and it was feared at the time would be attended with loss of life, but fortunately only one elderly person was seriously injured. These chandeliers were obliged to be lowered by means of a windlass, and men from the contractor for lighting the church, by oil-lamps, had to attend and lower them both before and after Divine Service, in the first instance for the purpose of lighting, and secondly to extinguish the lights. It was the practice of these men, who came from London, and were anxious to return home as soon as possible, to lower the weighty chandeliers on a certain signal being given to them at the belfry door, as soon as the organist commenced “playing the congregation out,” but on this occasion it was a sermon in aid of a charity, and the organ was only played previous to the singing of a hymn while the collection was being made. This caused the mistake. Some of the congregation in the galleries, perceiving that one of the chandeliers was unsteady and slowly descending, rushed forward to make their exit, which created great confusion and alarm, the result being the accident previously mentioned. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, being present, although not officiating, immediately explained the circumstances, and soon afterwards the alarm was allayed and the service concluded. The lighting of these oil-lamps was attended with great expense and much labour. A considerable saving is now effected by the introduction of gas, labour on the Sunday is lessened, and the dirt occasioned by the trimming of the lamps altogether obviated. The galleries, south and north, are well constructed. There is breadth of surface and simplicity of outline throughout. From some positions the columns of the nave, which impart such a grandeur to the entire interior, impedes the view of the preacher, even from the northern gallery, but this is unavoidable in Gothic architecture. At the eastern end, the great window, 32 ft. high, and 16 ft. wide, is a most conspicuous feature. The bottom of the window, being 22 ft. from the pavement, affords ample space The altar, or communion, is ascended by three steps, and is enclosed by a Gothic railing. The chairs and stools are designed in character, and are good specimens of wood carving; they were executed by Mr. Relph, from the designs of the architect. The altar-piece is “The Entombing of Christ,” by Northcote. It had been previously exhibited at the British Institution, Pall Mall. For some years after the church was completed the large eastern window was glazed simply with plain glass, as will be seen from the following Vestry Minute, dated April 24, 1823:—“It is the opinion of this Vestry that it would be expedient to have a stained-glass window at the east end, &c., and that the money necessary for the same be attempted to be raised by voluntary subscriptions.” This effort proved unsuccessful, and on the 29th of August, in the same year, Thomas Bryan, Esq., of. Cadogan Place, transmitted the following letter to a subsequent Vestry meeting: “Since I had the honour of being appointed treasurer for the purpose of receiving voluntary contributions for the purchase of a stained-glass window, I beg to announce that I have not received any money but what has been duly returned to the parties.” This great defect has since been remedied, and a very handsome and appropriate stained-glass window, representing the apostles, &c., now adds materially to the beautiful appearance of the interior of the church. The vestry is a large room, 28 ft. square, and is finished in character with the general style of the building. For some years the meetings of the parishioners were held in it. The proceedings on some occasions were very noisome, and as they frequently took place on Wednesday mornings, or on special days for prayer, there was at times such an interruption as rendered it impossible for the clergyman to proceed. The Act of Parliament since passed, and the erection of the Vestry Hall, in the King’s Road, have happily for ever removed that cause of complaint. In this vestry room, at the church, there is an exceedingly good portrait of Mr. Flood, an oil painting, in a large and handsome frame. It is an admirable likeness. At the west end is a vestibule, extending across the whole building, and occupying the space beneath the organ gallery and staircase. This is separated from the church by a fine stone screen, consisting of a large pointed arch, flanked by square open buttresses, and ornamented above with a range of upright divisions, finished with a blank cornice; in the centre is a bow, or projection in the corbel style, in the front of which is a dial. The doorway is formed of carved oak, representing tracery work and mullions, the upper part of the panelling being pierced and glazed. Above this screen is the organ, in a carved oak case, the design of which is an assemblage of three towers, with pinnacles at the angles, and united by flying buttresses, the wood work ornamented with upright arched panels. On each side of the church are seven arches, resting upon six octangular columns, to each of which four small pillars are attached, an additional one being placed upon the capitals of those which are situated towards the body of the church, and carried up towards the vaulting. At each of the extreme ends of the arcade a semi column is attached to the walls, to complete the number necessary for sustaining the arches. The main pillars and arches are ornamented with a simple ogee moulding. The aisles are occupied by galleries that hide the lower divisions of the windows, which are only seen externally, no light being admitted below the galleries through the outer walls. Between the clerestery windows and the arcades below is the metzonine story, fronted by four cinque-foil headed arches, and finished with a cornice of roses in enriched quatre foils, designed as in imitation of the ancient trifolium. The eastern window does not fill up the entire wall as we find in all ancient buildings, but a considerable portion of plain masonry is left round it. The space below is occupied by a splendid stone altar-screen of a beautiful antique design. It consists of five upright divisions, formed by the buttresses, the The centre division of the church is roofed with stone from east to west. The style of vaulting is, however, full two centuries earlier than the building: the nave of Westminster Abbey seems to have been the prototype. That part of the roof immediately above the altar is groined in a different manner, the surface of the cove being filled with long panels separated by arched ribs, springing from corbels, and crossing the church from side to side; the same is repeated above the organ; the corbels are all sculptured with figures of angels, which at the altar are represented in the act of prayer, and over the organ appear to be chanting the hymn of praise; though these portions are well executed, the conceit of varying the design is too novel to be admired. From the groined roof depend three elegant brass chandeliers, suspended on gilt chains. The pulpit of wainscot is octangular, and stands on a frame work of pointed arches; it is not wanting in ornament but it The font is situated in the centre aisle, near to the pulpit and reading desk; it is of an octangular form, and sustained on a pillar of the same shape. The different sides are panelled, each containing a shield in an enriched quatrefoil, and the pillar is ornamented with upright panels. It is executed in marble, and the carving appears to be highly deserving of praise. Within the last few months there has been placed in the church a lectern, which corresponds with the general character of the edifice. The entire edifice is highly creditable to the parish, and may be considered as a lasting monument to the memory of Mr. James Savage, the architect. The crypt or vaults under the church are well worthy of inspection. They are conveniently approached, on the north side, by a flight of steps, and are lofty, light, and thoroughly ventilated. Here may be seen the foundation of the tower, which is an inverted dome, and all the columns of the nave are likewise built on and connected by inverted arches. No doubt the construction of these numerous vaults added considerably to the aggregate cost of the edifice, and when interments were prohibited in the metropolitan parishes the anticipated return was at once stopped, still they strengthen the entire fabric, and ensure a freedom from damp, which is most desirable. In several of these vaults are deposited the remains of some of the most respected parishioners. The fees for burials in the vaults were as follow:—
None but leaden coffins, enclosed in wood, were allowed to be deposited in the vaults, nor of less thickness than 5 lb. to a foot superficial.
There are ten bells, which were cast at Mr. Mears’s Foundry, Whitechapel:—
The church was consecrated on the 18th of October, 1824, and as the foundation stone was laid on the 12th of October, 1820, the building of the edifice occupied about four years. MONUMENTAL INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CHURCH.There are many neat and well-designed marble tablets placed on the walls in different parts of the church, and one monument in particular which will be specially noticed. It would have afforded me great satisfaction to have transcribed all the tributes of affection there recorded, and also those in the Burial Ground, but the limited nature of this work would only admit of noticing a few of them. By adopting this course it will enable me to refer to a variety of interesting subjects, which otherwise in all probability must have been omitted.
This beautiful production of the chisel of Chantrey, which is placed in the north gallery, represents two soldiers lamenting the death of their heroic commander, whose portrait is on a medallion surrounded with flags, with the Imperial eagle of France underneath; the letter “N.” is on the top of the pillar which supports the eagle. On the pedestal which supports the sarcophagus is the word “Vittoria,” encircled with a laurelled crown; the sarcophagus is ornamented with a guilloche moulding. Chastity of design and delicacy of execution are the special characteristics of this admirable specimen of art. There is another monument to the memory of this gallant officer, erected at the public expense, in St. Paul’s Cathedral, and also a third in the Cathedral of Glasgow. During the battle Colonel Cadogan had been detached to an important position; and when it was discovered that he had been mortally wounded, it was proposed to take him off the field. “No,” said he, “my death is now certain, and very near; suffer me to conclude my life with the pleasure of seeing the continuation of our triumph; carry me to an height, from whence I can observe it.” He was carried to one, when his back was placed against a tree, and there he expired, after expressing his gratitude to those around him. In a vault near this spot lies the remains of the Right Hon. Charles Henry Cadogan, Earl Cadogan, Viscount Chelsea, in the county of Middlesex, Baron Cadogan, of Oakley, in the county of Buckingham. Born 17th Nov. 1749, and died on the 23rd Dec. 1832. Sophia Lucy Cadogan, wife of Lieut.-Col. Hon. Geo. Cadogan, Grenadier Guards. Born March 5, 1812; died Jan. 26, 1852.
There are inscriptions on marble tablets to the memory of the following respected parishioners, amongst some others:—
COST OF BUILDING THE CHURCH, &c.The original sum for the building of the Church, as agreed to at a Public Vestry, held on the 20th of August, 1818, was not to exceed in all £30,000, including every other advance that may be made from the Commissioners of Churches, and others. The interest of this sum, together with the principal, was to be paid out of a church rate, and the rate for this purpose was not to exceed one shilling in the pound. There was a petition signed against the New Church Bill, in which it was acknowledged that there was a total inadequacy of church accommodation in the parish—the population of which the petitioners stated to be 20,000 souls—but they submitted that “it would be better to erect two chapels, capable of holding 1,500 persons each, one to be situated at each extremity of the parish, which might be done for one half the church would cost.” Dr. Anthony Todd Thomson, of Sloane Street, who was one of the most able speakers in the parish, most powerfully advocated the erection of two chapels, but the opposition entirely failed. RECTORS AT THE NEW ST. LUKE’S CHURCH.In the account of the Old Church a list of the Rectors connected with that ancient edifice was given, we will now refer to those since the completion of the new Parish Church. The Hon. and Rev. G. V. Wellesley, D.D., who had been for many years previously Rector, was a brother of the Duke of Wellington, “the great hero of many a hard-fought battle.” Making a deduction for some slight difference in the corporeal appearance of them, there was a great resemblance of features, and in quickness of conception, correctness of judgment, and general determination of character, there was an astonishing similarity. Dr. Wellesley was quick in forming his conclusions, and appeared at times to be somewhat hasty, but generally it would be found that his views were founded on truth and justice. This remark applies more especially to the part he took as chairman of many of the “open vestry” parish meetings, at which there was frequently much contention. It was admitted, however, by those who were at times opposed to his views that his conduct was impartial and conciliatory, and the natural result was that he gained the respect of all classes of the ratepayers, and thus allayed much of that asperity of feeling which is too often manifested by contending parties. Some few particulars respecting the Rev. H. Blunt may here be very appropriately mentioned. The following opinion of him, as a preacher, given by an avowed infidel, will convey a tolerably good idea of his impressive manner of delivery. I will give it as nearly as possible in the individual’s own words. “I went,” said he, “to your place yesterday, (meaning the church,) and if ever I go again anywhere it shall be to hear Mr. Blunt. I went in and meant to come out shortly, but I had no sooner looked at him than his keen eyes seemed fixed on mine, and as he appeared so sincere in what he said, I remained till he had finished. He certainly was most persuasive, and it spoilt my dinner.” This was afterwards mentioned to Mr. Blunt, who smiled, and said, “I hope there were many others who went home to their dinners equally impressed.” When Trinity Church, Sloane Street, was completed, the Rev. Mr. Blunt became the Incumbent (the parish at that time was not as at present divided into ecclesiastical divisions). Here he was again greatly beloved by his large congregation, including both rich and poor. Some years afterwards he accepted the Rectory of Streatham, Surrey, where he at length died, as much esteemed by the inhabitants there, as he had been previously at Chelsea. Mr. Blunt was the chief founder of the first Benevolent Society established in this parish, in 1829, entitled the Chelsea Relief Association, and principally through his exertions no less a sum than £163 was collected within a very short period. Hence arose other similar societies, whose benevolent objects are well deserving of support. The Infant School, in Markham Street, might be considered as Mr. Blunt’s cherished offspring, and the National Schools at all times were regarded by him with feelings of deep regard. The Rev. Mr. Lockwood, M.A., succeeded the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, as rector, and manifested great interest in promoting the welfare of the parish, but after a comparatively short period he resigned. The Rev. G. A. Blunt, M.A., (son of the late Rev. H. Blunt,) succeeded Mr. Kingsley, and is the present Rector. He has evinced the greatest desire to promote the religious, moral, and intellectual advancement of the working classes, and takes a deep interest in promoting the Parochial National and Infant Schools, &c. There is one charitable society, of such a humane and practical character, that it deserves to be specially noticed. It is called “The Sick Kitchen.” In a printed “Letter addressed to the Congregation and Parishioners of St. Luke’s, Chelsea,” 1869, Mr. Blunt states that it is “carried on in a building erected for the purpose in 1861, in the Rectory Garden. Its object is to provide nutritious dinners for the poor who are recovering from sickness. It is supported by voluntary contributions, the early Communion alms, and half the contents of the church boxes at St. Luke’s. An average of thirty poor people are thus supplied daily for nine months in the year. There is no charge made, the orders being given by the Curates and District Visitors, among the cases they visit. The dinners consist of roast meat three times a week, soup, puddings, &c., on the alternate days; beef tea daily.” The advowson anciently belonged, as already stated, to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster, till they exchanged it, 17th July, 28 Henry VIII., together with their manors of Neyte and Hyde, with the king, for the priory of Hurley. It continued in the possession of the Crown till Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent, dated July 3rd, second year of her reign, demised to Ann, Duchess of Somerset, the advowson of the parish church and rectory for her life, the reversion to the Queen. After the death of the duchess it was granted to the Earl of Nottingham and his Countess for three lives. King Charles I. granted the advowson, with the manor, to James Duke of Hamilton, and in the next reign Charles Cheyne, Esq., purchased the manor, to which the rectory has ever since been annexed. Among Dr. King’s original papers is the following account of the rectory: “The ancient parsonage-house, with 14 acres and 22 perches of land, stood west of the Duke of Beaufort’s, then the Marquis of Winchester’s. In lieu of which, upon an exchange, the present house, and land about it, was given to the rectory for ever, by the consent of the Queen, the then patron, Dr. Edmund Grindall, Bishop of London, and Robt. Richardson, Rector of Chelsea, who conveyed the old house and land to the Marquis by writing, bearing date May 3, 1566.” In 1650, it was reported to the Commissioners appointed by the Parliament, that the parsonage-house of Chelsea, with twenty acres of glebe, belonging to the same, were valued at £60 per annum, and the tithes worth £60 more. The Rectory House, situated in Church Street, is very plain as regards its exterior appearance. The grounds are enclosed by a wall, and there are carriage entrances to the house. The interior is commodious, but scarcely adequate to the requirements of a large establishment in the present day. THE BURIAL GROUND, OR CEMETERY.In the south and north portions of the ground there are a great number of memorial stones, and a few brick vaults. That portion, situated at the north-eastern division, near to Bond Street and Marlborough Square, the ground of which is raised above the general surface, may be considered almost as one huge grave, containing a mass of interments. It was originally called “The Poor Ground,” on account of its being devoted exclusively for those who were buried at the expense of the parish. It would display much good feeling and sympathy, if some simple but appropriate record was placed there. It might be done by subscription, should there be no funds available for such a purpose. With respect to the numerous inscriptions, it would be impossible, as already stated, to notice more than a very few of
William Jones, Esq., aged 83, resided in Manor Street, Cheyne Walk. He was a good Hebrew and Greek scholar, but it is in the character of a naturalist that he must be principally regarded, Mr. Jones having painted from nature about 1,500 species of butterflies in a most masterly manner, and not only painted but arranged and characterized them in Latin. Matthew Yatman, Esq., of Lindsey Row, died in 1814; he was a most accomplished gentleman. Signor Carlo Rovedino, an Italian, died in this parish Oct. 6, 1822, aged 71; he was well known on the continent and in this country as a bass singer. Thomas Raven, a pupil in St. George’s Hospital, died in his sleep in 1826, aged 20. Dr. John M‘Leod, the companion of Sir Murray Maxwell, and the author of a voyage in H.M. ship “Alceste,” to the Yellow Sea, and of her shipwreck in the Straits of Gaspar; he died in the King’s Road in 1820, aged 38. Thomas Davey, Esq., of the King’s Road, died in 1833; he was a celebrated florist, and resided opposite Royal Avenue Terrace. This gentleman served most of the old parochial offices, and his general good-natured disposition gained for him the respect of all parties in the parish. William Tebbs, Esq. died in 1831, aged 59; he was beloved by a large circle of friends, and esteemed by all who knew him. Most of the old and respected parishioners of Chelsea, who once occupied a prominent position in it, have passed away from the scenes of this world, to enjoy, it is hoped, that pure and unalloyed happiness which can only be realized in that kingdom where there is neither poverty, anxiety, sorrow, or pain. Some of them no doubt are interred in this ground, but it would have displayed partiality to have noticed some and emitted others. In concluding the account of St. Luke’s Church, and Burial Ground, I venture to insert, at the request of some subscribers to this work, the following lines:— REMINISCENCES OF ST. LUKE’S CHURCH.Whene’er I view that beauteous tower, Once in that Church I bent the knee, I’ve seen there a bride, in rich attire, I’ve stood beside the baptismal font,
And there have aged pilgrims stood, And last I’ve seen the funeral train, Oh! when I view that sacred tower, Chelsea, 1867. George Bryan. PARISH REGISTERS.We now come to an exceedingly interesting subject, interesting alike, both to old and young, when we consider the very small population of the parish three centuries back compared with the present time now numbering about 70,000. Many of the early records of Parish Registers, will be found often written in so quaint a style as to be almost amusing, still they carry with them solemn thoughts, if rightly regarded, which ought to produce a salutary effect. When we read, too, the inscriptions on the monuments in our cathedrals, old churches, and in our cemeteries, and find ourselves actually walking over the remains The first institution of Parish Registers in England commenced in 1501, 16th of Henry VIII., although the keeping of them was not strictly enjoined till the injunction of Lord Cromwell, 30th of Henry VIII., but he being considered as a favourer of innovations in religion, the good intent of them was much misrepresented, and his order rarely attended to by the clergy. A second order of this kind was issued in the second year of Edward VI., 1547, though perhaps little complied with. A third order is found in the statutes of the National Synod, by Cardinal Pole, about 1555, and the last and most successful in the 1st, 7th, and 39th years of Elizabeth. The first Chelsea Parish Register Book is a small folio, vellum, a great part of which is beautifully written. It commences with the year 1559, and appears to be accurately kept, except that it is imperfect during the Interregnum; and there are some omissions in the burials between 1564 and 1591, and between 1644 and 1652, the year in which it ends. In the first leaf there is this memorandum: “A Booke begun in the House of God for Regestringe of all Christenings, Marages, and Burialls within the Parishe of Chelsey, provided for that purpose by J. Tomkins and Thomas Saunders, Church Wardens, the 19 daye of Feburarie 1559, and new in the time and yeare of Richard Warde, Parson of Chelsey, 11 March, 1599.” The following are a few selected from the Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials:— Baptisms.
The remaining baptismal entries, and some of those omitted, include the sons or daughters of the Earl of Nottingham, Lord Cranfield, Earl of Lincolne, Sir John Danvers, Sir G. Wentworth, Lord Commissioner Whitelocke, Charles Cheyne, Esq., Charles Stanley, Esq., Sir Henry Herbert, Earl of Lindsey, &c. Marriages.
(It would occupy a volume to give even a selection of the Baptisms, Marriages, and Burials that have since taken place.)
The original books, previous to the year 1696, are all lost; and the parishioners are indebted to the industry of Lord Cheyne for the preservation of many of these historical fragments. The following few extracts from the early dates, taken from amongst many others, are singular:—
As the population increased the records of the parish naturally became more voluminous, and for many years past the proceedings of the vestrymen, and also of the Board of Guardians, are kept in the most admirable manner. This, it is true, is the effect of the improved state of society, the passing of the Metropolis Local Management Act, 1855, and the introduction of better Laws for the relief and maintenance of the poor.
These schools are situated at the east side of the Cemetery. The pointed style was adopted on account of the contiguity of the building to the Parish Church. It consists of a centre, with low wings. The wings are occupied by the schools, and the centre as residences intended for the master and mistress; a large pointed arch connects the two divisions. The first stone was laid on the 18th of June, 1824, by the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, with the customary formalities, at which there were present the late Rev. Henry Blunt, and several other clergymen, besides a vast number of the parishioners, including many ladies. In 1826 the entire building was finished, and the children were admitted. CHELSEA WORKHOUSE.Before the year 1723 there were no workhouses in England. It was the custom to relieve the able-bodied at their own dwelling places, and the aged and infirm were, in many cases, supported by the alms given at the church. In 1727, it was “agreed that the churchwardens should be empowered to take, with all convenient speed, a proper house upon lease, in the name of the parish, for the use of the poor.” In 1733 it was resolved, at a vestry, “That a committee be appointed to find out the most proper method to procure a workhouse for the poor, and an additional burial ground.” The result was that Sir Hans Sloane gave the present ground for both purposes, and the first erection of the workhouse took place about 1737. The building, at the early part of this century, contained but few dwelling rooms, besides those occupied by the master and mistress. It had two wings, however, the one to the south-west was built in 1792, and the south-east wing in 1797. The whole did not occupy much space. There was a garden, tastefully laid out, with a neat box-edging around each compartment. THE KING’S ROAD CEMETERY.This cemetery adjoins the workhouse, and the ground was the gift of Sir Hans Sloane. It was consecrated in 1736, by Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London. In 1790 it was enlarged by a grant from Lord Cadogan. The obelisk, near the centre, was erected to the memory of Andrew Millar, an eminent bookseller in London, who died in 1768, aged 61 years; he had little pretensions to learning, but possessed a very nice discrimination in selecting his literary counsellors. On a flat stone, on the north side, is an inscription in memory of John Martyn, F.R.S., Professor of Botany at Cambridge, and Eulalia, his wife, youngest daughter of the Rev. Dr. King, rector. She died in 1748–9, and Mr. Martyn in 1768. John Baptist Cipriani, the celebrated artist, and one of the earliest members of the Royal Academy, was interred in this burial ground. On the north side is a tomb to his memory. The Rev. Philip Withers, D.D., July 1790. In 1779 he published proposals for a splendid edition of the Table of Cebes, with plates and notes, intended for the benefit of the Sons of the Clergy, but owing to some misunderstanding with Archbishop Cornwallis, the work never appeared; he lived in Sloane Square in 1789, and imprudently published several libellous pamphlets, for which he was convicted. He was committed to Newgate for twelve months, fined £50, and died there of a fever. Dr. Sloane Ellesmere, rector, was buried here in 1766; and Lady Rous, aged 90, widow of Sir W. Rous, Alderman of London, in 1777. Hannah Aston and Anne Aston, two sisters, died in 1806. These unfortunate young women were daughters of Mr. Aston, of Robinson’s Lane (now Flood Street), and had been with a party to Richmond. On their return the boat struck on a barge near Putney Bridge, by which accident they were both drowned, together with Mr. Isaac Van Butchell, son of the eccentric Dr. Van Butchell. In this ground is the family vault of the Rev. Weeden Butler, whom we have noticed amongst the residents in Cheyne Walk. Mr. John Fraser, nurseryman, who resided many years in the King’s Road, close to Sloane Square; he was ardently attached to botanical researches, and several times explored the wilds of North America; he died in 1811. Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, of the King’s Road, died in 1828, in the 49th year of her age, after a short but severe illness. There have been but few interments in this burial ground for many years. When the new St. Luke’s cemetery was completed, in 1812, this ground was closed, excepting to those who had relatives previously buried in it. The population of the parish, from the year just mentioned, rapidly increased, and the burials, about 1832, amounted in the year to upwards of 600, but many of these belonged to the adjoining parishes, and a large proportion were children.
As this road is the central great thoroughfare through Chelsea, some early particulars respecting it cannot be otherwise than interesting. It was originally only a footway through the fields, for the use of the farmers and gardeners to get access to their lands; but soon after the restoration of Charles II. it was found a convenient way for his Majesty to go to Hampton Court Palace, and thus it was, after some discussion between the Government and the parishioners of Chelsea, converted into a coach road. The following extracts from the petition of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., Lord of the Manor, and other freeholders, will give a sufficient detail of its history and origin, and from which it appears that disputes had arisen concerning the right of way; and after the claims of the inhabitants had been considered by the Lords Commissioners of his Majesty’s Treasury, the matter was finally decided in their favour in the year 1719, the 5th of George I.:—
To this petition was attached the evidence of several of the freeholders, in confirmation of what was stated in the above petition. One of these was given by Mr. Matthew Hutchins, gardener, of the King’s Road. The above petition was referred to Hugh Cholmley, Esq., Surveyor-General, and William Watkins, Esq., Surveyor of his Majesty’s private roads. The reports from these two official gentlemen were evasive and unsatisfactory, and consequently a second statement was sent to the Commissioners, in reply to On the same day (May 6) the following letter was received:—“My Lords direct Mr. Watkins to permit the tenants of the lands adjoining to the King’s Road, through Chelsea, to have free passage through the same, with their carts and horses, in the manner they have been accustomed to; and that the ditches which belong to the land, and lately filled up, be opened again.” The above particulars explain the origin of placing the gates, or bars, at different parts of the King’s Road, and which many of the parishioners at the present time well remember. Daring robberies and murders appear to have been very frequent about this period, especially in the Five Fields, (now Eaton Square, &c.) and along the whole line of the King’s Private Road. Mr. Timbs, F.S.A., says, “In the King’s Road, near the spot where is now the Vestry Hall, the Earl of Peterborough was stopped by highwaymen in what was then a narrow lane; and the robbers, being watched by some soldiers, who formed a part of the guard at Chelsea College, were fired at from behind the hedge; one of these highwaymen turned out to be a student in the Temple, whose father having lost his estate, his son lived by ‘play, sharping, and a little on the highway,’ the desperate resources of the day.” In September, 1753, a Mr. Crouch, cook to the Earl of Harrington, was attacked at night by two men who took his watch and money, and then stabbed him with a knife and beat him till he died. The following most diabolical and remarkable case of burglary and murder occurred in the King’s Road in 1771:— The robbery and murder was no sooner known than a reward was offered from the Secretary of State’s office, for the apprehension of the gang. The offer was seconded by that of a much larger reward from the City of London; and also another of £50 from the parishioners of Chelsea. The murderers, however, remained undiscoverd for a considerable time till Daniel Isaacs, one of the gang, became the means of discovering his accomplices, in the following manner:—Isaacs, being touched with remorse of conscience, &c., sent for a friend Isaacs was admitted to give evidence against his accomplices, six of whom were soon apprehended, but the other made his escape. There appears to have been some discrepancy as regards the number of the gang, one account states eight, while another mentions nine. At the Old Bailey Sessions, in December, 1771, Levi Weil, Asher Weil, Marcus Hartogh, Jacob Lazarus, Solomon Porter, Hyam Lazarus, and Abraham Linewill, (the man who had absconded) were indicted for the robbery and murder, when the two of the name of Weil, with Jacob Lazarus and Solomon Porter, were capitally convicted, and Marcus Hartogh and Hyam Lazarus were acquitted. Mrs. Hutchins deposed on the trial, that about six weeks before her house was robbed, Hyam Lazarus came to it, inquiring for one Beetham, a weaver, when she said she knew no such person; that on the 11th of June, the night of the robbery she heard the dog bark, about ten o’clock at night, her men being then gone to bed; that she called to one of her two maid-servants to see what was the matter with the dog, and shortly after, hearing a noise, she ran herself to see, and found her maid, Mary Hodgkin, with her cap off, and some men using her extremely ill; that to the best of her remembrance, she recollected Levi Weil and Hyam Lazarus to be among these men; and though her fright was exceedingly great, she did her endeavour to assist her maid, but that Levi Weil (called the Doctor,) pushed her into a chair, and pulled her upper petticoat The Recorder prefaced the sentence with a judicious and just compliment to the principal Jews, for their very laudable conduct in the course of the prosecution, and hoped no person would stigmatize a whole nation for the villanies of a few. These men, as was customary formerly in cases of murder, were tried on a Friday, and on the following day (the Jewish Sabbath) they were anathematized in the Synagogue. An immense number of people attended the execution. They prayed together, sung an hymn in the Hebrew language, and soon afterwards were launched into eternity. The following anecdote, in reference to this daring robbery, was very frequently related many years ago, and I do not remember that its veracity was ever questioned. Soon after the conviction of the Jews, the Queen paid a visit to Mrs. Hutchins, and, after expressing the deepest sympathy for her sufferings, desired to be informed whether she could advance the interests of any member of the family. A circumstance was mentioned to her Majesty, which resulted in one of the junior branches being ultimately educated at one of the Universities. We will now briefly notice the King’s Road, as it was at the earlier part of the present century. At the entrance into Chelsea parish, at the eastern end of Sloane Square, the bridge, to which we have several times referred, was at that period probably about 14 or 16ft. wide, on both sides of which there was a wall of sufficient height to protect passengers from falling into the narrow rivulet which it spanned, and which belonged to the commissioners of sewers. There were two little cottages near to this stream, and immediately contiguous to them was Mr. Burgess’s premises, who carried on a very good business, as a coach builder, &c. The houses around Sloane Square were nearly the same as they are at the present time, but the square was an open space, simply enclosed by wooden posts, connected by iron chains, where boys frequently played at cricket, &c. Here, too, Queen Charlotte’s Royal Volunteers often assembled, and marched off in military order to Hyde Park, accompanied by an excellent band. Mr. Fraser’s Botanical Grounds adjoined Sloane Square. He explored distant parts of the world several times, so ardently attached was he to botanical researches. He was patronized by a large number of the nobility and gentry. His death took place, in 1811, at his residence. It will be seen shortly that if the King’s Road, in the “Olden Times,” was almost exclusively occupied by farmers and gardeners, that, for a number of years afterwards, one of the principal attractions to it was the many celebrated nursery and floricultural grounds. The high wall at the Royal Military Asylum, which formed the back of the boys’ lavatory, &c., and which stood more forward than the present enclosure, had no pathway whatever against it, and the road being at one part very narrow, it was not only inconvenient but at times dangerous. Mr. Colvill’s Nursery Ground stood on the site of Colvill Terrace, and the entrance to it was at the eastern corner. His display of flowers excited general admiration, and consequently an immense number of the gentry generally paid him a daily visit during the summer season.. The grounds, however, were only enclosed with an old wooden fence, and here again there was no footway for passengers. Mr. Thomas Davey was also a celebrated florist, and his ground was opposite what was called the White Stiles, now known as the Royal Avenue to Chelsea College. The origin of the former name arose from there being an ornamental stile at the entrances. Mr. Pratt, a friend of Mr. Faulkner, wrote the following lines, “Flowers and Fashion,” in reference to the above two celebrated floricultural grounds:—
The old White Hart public-house and tea-gardens, situated on the opposite side of the road to Mr. Davey’s grounds, was Near to this house, a little to the east, about 1818, a poor man was sitting by the roadside, apparently in the most pitiable state of hunger and destitution. A pensioner belonging to Chelsea Hospital, a man of colour, was passing along at the time with a can of soup and a small loaf of bread, which he had just previously received as his dinner allowance, some of the men being allowed to have private lodgings. The pensioner gazed for a moment at the wretched object of misery, and then, with a heart full of sympathy, gave him some of the soup and bread. Such an act of benevolence excited the attention of a very young man, who, whenever he met the kind-hearted black pensioner, always felt a feeling of respect for him. Some time afterwards it came to the knowledge of this youth that the pensioner had been convicted of a certain crime, not now a capital offence, and sentenced to be executed. This communication very much surprised him, but he could not erase from his memory the humane conduct he had witnessed. Accordingly, he went to Newgate on the following day, unknown to his friends, to see the condemned malefactor. On his arrival at the prison the turnkey at the entrance door refused him admittance, and told him, in a gruff manner, that he must get an order. He then went direct to the Sheriff’s residence, and, after some conversation, obtained a special order for admission. The turnkey now became very respectful, and the young man was immediately conducted to the yard where the condemned prisoners took the benefit of the fresh air. The aged convict’s appearance was much altered, and during nearly the whole time of the visit tears rolled down his cheeks. He was thus visited several times, and, at length, through a petition presented by the authorities at Chelsea Hospital, and another from some of the parishioners, the unhappy black man’s sentence was mitigated to transportation for life. At one of the interviews, the culprit asked for some memorial of the young man’s kindness, having been previously told that his life would be spared, and a Bible was given to him, with the name of the youthful donor written in it. An assurance was given that he would see him again that week, but when the young man went the poor black pensioner had been removed from the prison, and he never heard of him afterwards. The evidence produced at the trial fully justified the verdict of being guilty of the charge, but there was gross culpability on the part of the prosecutrix. The residence and manufactory which we have just described was pulled down some years ago, and the present one was then erected. A deplorable event occurred, about 38 years since, at Messrs. Downings’ new Floor Cloth Manufactory, which it is requisite to notice in a work of this description. A young man, whose name was Butler, the son of very worthy parents, and who had borne a tolerably good character previous to the fatal event we are about to mention, was convicted and executed at Newgate, for setting fire to a portion of the premises. The fire broke out in or near to the stables, and as it occurred on the Sunday morning, between the hours of twelve and one o’clock, the horses were of course locked in them. It was with great difficulty that they were rescued. The evidence, although principally circumstantial, resulted in the jury finding a verdict of “Guilty.” Notwithstanding the most strenuous efforts to save the life of the young man, he suffered the extreme penalty of the then law. A Wesleyan minister, who attended him at his last moments, published a pamphlet stating his reasons for believing that he was innocent. He was interred in St. Luke’s Burial Ground, and the Church was crowded to excess. On the same side of the road, and opposite Wellington Square, was formerly the Nursery belonging to Mr. Moore. A little further westward was the residence of Mr. Evans, sen., known as Box Farm. For many years he lived there, and was much respected in the parish. Mr. Little’s Nursery Ground was established many years since, and at the present time it is celebrated for the production of some of the choicest plants and flowers. Jubilee Place was first opened in 1809, and named in commemoration of that event in the annals of the reign of George the Third. Flood Street, it appears, by ancient documents, was originally called Pound Lane, probably from the pound of the manor standing on or near its site. It was known for some years by the name of Robinson’s Lane, and since the buildings were continued to the King’s Road, it was, by an order from the magistrates, called Queen Street. It has recently been altered to Flood Street, so named as a tribute to the memory of Luke Thomas Flood, Esq., for his munificent annual gifts to the poor of this parish, and by doing which many mistakes are now obviated, as there was and is still Queen’s Road West adjoining Cheyne Walk. Upper Manor Street was originally called Wellesley Street, in honour of the Rev. Dr. Wellesley, the then rector of the parish. A murder was committed in this street about forty years since, which created great excitement throughout Chelsea. An elderly female resided in one of the houses, and she was found dead early one morning under circumstances which left no doubt whatever that the dreadful crime just mentioned had been perpetrated. Two men were apprehended, who lived in the neighbourhood, and who had been seen standing near the house at about 12 o’clock the preceding night, but beyond that fact no further evidence was adduced. It appeared they were both at a public house that evening, and left when it was closed, but they produced no witnesses to prove that they went afterwards direct to their homes. The evidence in support of the charge being insufficient, the magistrate discharged them. One of them was a second time charged with the murder, but the result was the same. The name of the street was then altered. Robert Street, and the adjacent streets, have all been built in the course of the present century. Edward James Mascall, Esq., a gentleman who occasionally took a very active part in parochial affairs, resided in what is now called Argyll House for many years. The entrance to Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, was anciently a back way to the stable-yard of Alston House, in Cheyne Walk. Some years ago the stone frame-work of the gate was visible in a garden in Upper Cheyne Row. Formerly the parishioners had only the privilege of a footway through the glebe land from the King’s Road, as appears from the following extract from the Vestry Minutes:— “1755. Sept. 18. Whereas the road leading from the north end of Great Cheyne Row over the glebe land to the King’s Private Road, is the proper right of Mr. John Narbonne, of this parish, and whereas the inhabitants of this parish do frequently pass and repass that way, not only with corpse to the New Burying Ground, but to the Workhouse contiguous, as well as to other places; and as the privilege is only upon sufferance, by consent, and during the pleasure of Mr. Narbonne, therefore we unanimously agree to pay him and his heirs, as long as this privilege shall continue, upon the 1st day of May in every year, being from the day the Burying Ground was consecrated, the sum of one shilling, which we order shall be paid by the churchwardens for the time being.” There have been no material alterations made from its recent state during my remembrance; but Cook’s Grounds will soon be no longer recognised as it was in 1868, as many very superior houses are now being erected, which will be presently noticed. Mr. Pamplin, another celebrated nurseryman, resided at the western corner of Cook’s Grounds. The old dwelling-house has just been pulled down. The King’s Parade, opposite Cook’s Grounds, was erected in 1810. It is no longer known as the “Parade”—principally so called on account of the stone-pavement, which was considered then a luxury to walk on at that part of the road—but is now included under the general appellation of the King’s Road. On the site of Oakley Square there still remained a portion of Mrs. Hutchins’s market garden. The road at this spot was very narrow, and no pathway for passengers on that side. Here, again, there was an obstructive bar placed across the road. Mr. Faulkner mentions a singular circumstance that occurred just at this place. He says, “About the year 1796, I was present at a stag-hunt in Chelsea. The animal swam across the river from Battersea, and made for Lord Cremorne’s grounds; and upon being driven from thence ran along the water-side as far as the Church, and turning up Church Lane (street), at last took refuge in Mrs. Hutchins’s barn, where he was taken alive.” A little on the west of Oakley Square, in a spacious house, Mrs. Kelly, the author of several novels, conducted a most respectable school. It was subsequently taken for the reception of invalid soldiers, who came to pass the Board at Chelsea Hospital, previous to their discharge from the army. This house, long since pulled down, was said to have been built about the year 1715. Adjoining the preceding house, and at the corner of Upper Church Street, was the “Rose and Crown,” a small road-side public-house, standing much below the level of the road, and, from its appearance, had evidently been built at an early period. At the entrance was a wooden bench, on which many a weary traveller took rest. On the site of this house is now the Cadogan Arms. Passing Church Street, and proceeding westward, the road was extremely narrow. At the south corner of Church Street there was an additional house to what there is at the present time, and the old residence on the opposite side, lately pulled down, projected several feet forward on the road, without any pathway for foot-passengers. There is now a capital carriage-road and a good pavement, with some commanding shops at the northern corner. Adjoining, on the north side of the King’s Road, are the extensive premises of Messrs. Ransome and Co., the eminent saw-mill engineers, &c. The late Mr. Alfred Mellon, so celebrated for his concerts, and musical entertainments, lived for a considerable time in what is known as “The Vale,” which is situated on the opposite side to Paultons Square, where he died some two or three years since. He was buried in the Brompton Cemetery, and his funeral was attended by a great many of his private friends, and by a large number of the most eminent men in the musical and theatrical world, by all of whom he was highly respected. Mr. John Varley, the celebrated water colour painter, and principal founder of the old Society now in Pall Mall East, whose works are well known to the world, lived at 10, Beaufort Row, now Beaufort Street, about the year 1810. His town house was in Conduit Street, Regent Street. During the time he resided here he made a very excellent drawing of the Old Church, from near the Bishop of Winchester’s Palace, in Cheyne Walk, the property of J. H. Chance, Esq., which was lent and exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1862. Many other beautiful sketches of Chelsea were made by Mr. Varley from the shores, as well as from one of Mr. Bettsworth’s boats, which was always at his service. Some of the family have long been and are now residents in Chelsea and Brompton. Mr. John Varley was born in 1778, and died in 1842. When Mr. Varley left Chelsea, Mr. Dorrell, the artist, took the house, and afterwards Mr. J. Stark, the well-known oil painter of woodland scenes, occupied it. Two prettily painted pieces, although small, are now to be seen at the South Kensington Museum. Mr. Stark was born in 1794, and died in 1859. Wilson Lowry, F.R.S., M.G.S., lived near to Battersea Bridge, about the year 1809. He was known not only for his eminence as an engraver, but also for his extensive knowledge of anatomy, natural philosophy, mathematics, mineralogy, and geology, Mr. John Galt, the author of “Sir Archibald Wylie,” and the “Ayrshire Legatees,” lived in Beaufort Row about 1809. Mr. Ralph Wedgwood, (of the firm of Josiah Wedgwood and Co.,) the celebrated manufacturers of the Queen’s Ware, died at Chelsea in 1837. Mr. Bentley, one of Mr. Wedgwood’s partners, superintended a branch establishment at Chelsea, about 1770, for finishing and painting the best pieces. Mr. Paul Bedford, the popular comedian, late of the Adelphi and Haymarket Theatres, resides in Lindsey Place. He is much respected in private life, and as an actor few have obtained greater celebrity. Returning to the King’s Road, and proceeding from Beaufort Street, we arrive at “the Man in the Moon” tavern. There are many conjectures respecting the origin of the sign of this house, but nothing certain has been elucidated. As a celebrated neighbouring tavern was called the “World’s End,” perhaps the original proprietor thought he would give his house an equally singular sign. We have already noticed the Clock House, Lord and Lady Cremorne’s Villa (now known as Cremorne Gardens), Ashburnham House, Stanley House, St. Mark’s College, &c.; but there are one or two others to which we will now briefly allude. The first of these is Messrs. Christie’s Flour Mills, established a great many years ago. The premises are situated at the western extremity of the parish, and close to the Chelsea Railway Station. Mr. Ormson, horticultural builder, resides at Dudmaston House, which is opposite the entrance to St. Mark’s College. Let us now take a glance at the present state of the King’s Road, and a few more of the vast improvements which have been made in it. But, before doing so, we will give some particulars descriptive of a novel enterprise which is attracting a large share of public attention at the present time. The Chelsea Steam Captive Balloon.—This monster aerial balloon ascends daily, weather permitting, from a part of the grounds known as the Ashburnham estate, a little beyond Cremorne Gardens. The balloon itself is 93 feet in diameter, and has a cubical capacity for gas of 421,161 ft. It is capable of taking up into the air no less than 30 passengers, and is attached to one strong rope, 2000 ft. long, which passes round a balance wheel, and thence to a large cylinder worked by an engine of 200 horse power. These appliances are all fitted in a kind of amphitheatre, from the centre of which the ascents take place. The supposed altitude to which the rope allows ascent is 2000 feet, but as a rule the height is generally less. The cost of the balloon alone is stated to be £24,000, and the value of the gas required (pure hydrogen) £600. It is composed of linen and India rubber, made of five thicknesses, and is the property of a French gentleman well known for his attachment to scientific experiments. A little further eastward is Mr. W. Bull’s Nursery, and on the opposite side is the Ashburnham Park Nursery, belonging to Mr. J. W. Wimsett. Both of them are distinguished cultivators of rare and valuable plants. Near to Cremorne Gardens, on the opposite side of the road, is the extensive Show Establishment belonging to John Weeks and Co., Horticultural Builders and Hot-Water Apparatus Manufacturers, Engineers, and Iron Founders. The Horticultural Building and Engineering department is carried on near to Messrs. Downing’s Floor Cloth Manufactory, in the King’s Road. Proceeding on, eastward, we arrive once more at Cook’s Grounds, which was, as previously stated, a private way originally to the stabling of Sir Joseph Alston’s House, in Cheyne Walk. The old house, for so many years occupied by Mr. Pamplin, the nurseryman, on the western entrance in the King’s Road, has recently been pulled down, and two commanding shops erected on the site, by Mr. Leete, the builder, of Little Cadogan Place. They contain thirteen rooms each, built with white bricks and compo-dressings, with enrichments and cornices. On the right-hand side of Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, about 30 superior-looking private dwelling houses are now being built, each of which will contain eight rooms. These are also built with white bricks, and will have what is termed “cant” windows. The road opposite them is intended to be 50 ft. wide, and there will be a good pavement. When this great improvement is finally completed, and carried forward to Cheyne Walk, which no doubt is the intention, this new street will then scarcely be surpassed by Oakley Street. In Trafalgar Square, likewise, there are a number of very superior dwelling-houses now in course of erection, and, when the entire square is finished, there will be an excellent road from Cheyne Walk to the South Kensington Museum.
This building is situated on the south side of the King’s Road, and is nearly opposite Robert Street. The foundation stone was laid on the 12th of December, 1859. The arrangements for the accommodation of the public were under the superintendence of W. W. Pocock, Esq., the architect, and notwithstanding it was a very inclement day, there were at least a thousand persons present. In a bottle were deposited a suitable inscription on vellum, a list of the parish officers for the year, one copy of each of the three Annual Reports of the Vestry, a copy of the “Metropolis Local Management Act,” with its Amendments, and of the “Nuisances Removal Act,” and one of each of the Coins of the present Reign. The band of the Royal Military Asylum attended, and played several popular airs, which added greatly to enliven the proceedings. The following particulars are extracted from the “Morning Advertiser,” Tuesday, December 13th, 1859, and which were inserted in the Fourth Annual Report of the Vestry, 1860. The foundation stone was laid by Viscount Chelsea in due form, in the presence of Robert Hanbury, Esq., and the Hon. G. Byng, the Members for Middlesex, W. Tite, Esq., M.P., the Rev. C. Kingsley, the Rector of the Parish, the Members of the Vestry, and a large number of the influential inhabitants of the parish. The building is in the Italian style, with stone facings. The length is about 140 ft., and between 60 and 70 feet in breadth. The great hall is 64ft. in length, and 40 ft. wide, and accommodates upwards of 1000 persons. The board room is about 45 ft. by 30. The time appointed for the ceremonial was two o’clock in the afternoon, and at half-past one o’clock the gentlemen invited to take part in the day’s proceedings assembled in the Vestry-Room of St. Luke’s Church, and proceeded from thence to the site of the proposed building, headed by the juvenile band of the Royal Military Asylum, playing national and other appropriate airs. Mr. Tite, M.P., opened the business of the day in an appropriate speech, in the course of which he alluded to the kind gift of the freehold site by Earl Cadogan, the money for the erection of the building having been voted by the Vestry. The new hall, he said, when built, would not only be useful as regarded parochial purposes, but it would be an ornament to that locality. He was not disposed to introduce politics into a matter so purely parochial, but he could not help saying that, in the event of Chelsea obtaining a right to send representatives to Parliament—to which it is fully entitled on account of the number, respectability, and intelligence of its inhabitants—they could meet in their new hall, and there canvass and consider the claims of the candidates who presented themselves for their suffrages. Mr. Hanbury and Mr. Byng then severally addressed the numerous assemblage in suitable speeches. Mr. Charles Lahee, the respected Vestry Clerk, then read the following document, which was afterwards deposited in the bottle previously referred to:—“This building, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Right Hon. Lord Viscount Chelsea, on the 12th day of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty nine, is intended for the transaction of the parochial and municipal business of Chelsea, which contains at the present time a population, by estimation, of seventy thousand persons. It is built by the Vestry constituted by an Act for the better Local Management of the Metropolis (18th & 19th Victoria, cap. 120) upon freehold land presented them by the Lord of the Manor, and his heirs, from the designs of Mr. Willmer Pocock, architect, by Thomas Piper and Sons, builders. Contract sum £5630. Lord of the Manor, George, 3rd Earl of Cadogan.” To which was attached the names of the Rector, Churchwardens, Vestrymen, &c., &c. The Rev. Richard Burgess, of Trinity Church, Sloane Street, then offered an appropriate prayer, after which, Mr. W. Rabbits, one of the vestrymen, presented a silver trowel to Viscount Chelsea, to be used in laying the first stone, and to be kept by his lordship as a token of the respect of the parishioners for him. Mr. Pocock, the architect, then placed the bottle containing the documents, &c., in the cavity of the under stone, which was covered with mortar. The other portion of the stone was then let down, and Viscount Chelsea having gone through the usual “masonic” operations in a workmanlike manner, his lordship declared the Vestry Hall to be in due course of erection amidst the loud cheers of all present. The erection of the entire building was completed in 1860, and, occupying such a central position, it adds materially to the respectability of the King’s Road. It is an attractive structure, and its architectural design reflects great credit on Mr. Pocock. The estimate laid before the Vestry Finance Committee on the 21st of February, 1861, by Mr. Charles Lahee, the Vestry Clerk, of the total probable cost of the Vestry Hall buildings, including the fittings and furniture, was altogether £12,059 16s. 2d. A portion of the building is occupied by the Chelsea Literary and Scientific Institution, for the use of which a rental is paid. T. L. Bull, Esq., was the original founder, and to his indefatigable efforts, for a considerable time, may be attributed the advantages that have been derived from it. It appears, however, that the receipts of this useful and admirable institution are unfortunately just now insufficient to meet the necessary expenditure, but it is gratifying to record that at a late influential meeting, held at the Vestry Hall, to consider the “present position and future prospects of the Institution,” and at which Lord George Hamilton, M.P., presided, it was unanimously resolved to extricate it from temporary difficulties. Mr. Charles Lahee, who has been Vestry Clerk for many years, has a private dwelling-house at the Vestry Hall. The offices are on the ground floor, and the large hall is at the rear of the building. The spacious room above the offices, and which fronts the road, is where the vestrymen weekly assemble, adjoining it are committee rooms, &c. The whole interior is well-arranged and admirably adapted for the requirements of the parish, which has now become one of the most populous and important in the metropolis. In Flood Street, near to the King’s Road, is a small Chapel belonging to the Primitive Methodists. The Savings’ Bank is situated on the north side of the King’s Road. It was established in the year 1819. The benefits derived by the labouring classes, and others of limited means, by the establishment of such banks, are now so well known and appreciated that it would be needless to enumerate them. The Chelsea Savings’ Bank is one of the most secure and best conducted in London. 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ITS ORIGIN, EARLY CONDITION, AND PRESENT STATE.
| 57 | days’ sale of books | £5,518 | 10 | 11 |
| 3 | ditto pictures | 3,417 | 11 | 0 |
| 14 | ditto prints and drawings | 1,908 | 14 | 6 |
| 8 | ditto coins and medals | 1,977 | 17 | 0 |
| 5 | ditto antiquities | 3,246 | 15 | 6 |
The world was deprived of this distinguished physician in 1754. To the poor he gave money as well as advice.
Sir Francis Windham had a house in Queen’s Road West, about 1700. He entertained Charles II. at Trent, after the battle of Worcester, where the king remained concealed for several days.
The Rev. James Miller was born in 1703. He wrote the oratorio of “Joseph and his Brethren,” and translated and adapted to the English stage, the “Mahomet” of Voltaire, which met with great applause; but on the third night of its representation, being for his own benefit, he died suddenly at his house at Chelsea, in 1743.
Dr. Alexander Blackwell, a physician, resided in a house near the Botanic Garden; he became involved in his circumstances,
The Rev. Thomas Stackhouse, a learned and pious divine, resided in Queen’s Road West, about the year 1750; he was the author of “The History of the Bible,” &c.
Mr. John Collett, the painter, resided here for a long period. The favourite subjects of his pencil were pieces of humour, somewhat in imitation of Hogarth. Collett died here in 1780.
Mr. John Giles Eccardt had a house here for some years, and died in 1779; he was a painter of some eminence. The portrait of Gay, the poet, in Lord Orford’s works, now almost extant, is from a painting by Eccardt.
Mr. W. Hamilton, a pleasing artist, resided also here for several years; his most capital work was “The Queen of Sheba entertained at a banquet by Solomon.”
Mr. Samuel Cotes lived in Queen’s Road West, where he died in 1818. He painted miniatures both in enamel and water colours, and was in great practice.
Sir Robert Walpole had a house and garden “next the College.” He built here an octagon summer-house and a large greenhouse, the latter filled with fine exotics by Lady Walpole; he had also a curious grotto. Nell Gwynn is said to have lived in this house when it was Crown property. It was taken down about 1808. On the site of this house is now a spacious infirmary for the sick and aged pensioners of Chelsea Hospital.
School of Discipline.—This is the oldest Reformatory for young girls in London. It was opened by Mrs. Elizabeth Fry, who, with some Christian friends, brought six other children from Newgate to a small house at Chelsea, in 1825. Since that time a larger house has been taken in Queen’s Road West, near to Chelsea Hospital, and the number of children increased. They are daily instructed in the love and fear of God, carefully trained in all useful branches of household work, needlework, and the usual subjects of elementary secular education. The number of children now boarded, clothed, and educated in the school is 42. It is a “Certified Industrial School,” for the purpose of receiving, by magistrates warrants, girls who are either found begging, homeless, or frequent the company of thieves, &c. Twenty-one of such, in 1869, were under detention. They are paid for by the Home Office, the parents, where possible, contributing to their maintenance. The others are such as need restraint and discipline, and the parents are required to pay sums varying from 6d. to 5s., according to their means. It is conducted by a Ladies’ Committee, Mrs. Cromwell, the lady of the Principal of St. Mark’s College, kindly discharging the duties of honorary secretary.
Mr. Thomas Faulkner, to whom this work is so greatly indebted, lived at the corner house, opposite the grounds of
Mr. Richard Suett, who acquired considerable repute as a low comedian, died at his lodgings here in 1805, aged 47. He made his first appearance at Drury Lane in the character of Ralph, in the Maid of the Mill. He was buried on the north side of St. Paul’s Cathedral, where he had been educated as one of the choir; his disposition was amiable, and the needy always shared his mite.
Durham House.—It appears that a large house was standing on this spot in 1694, it was then called the Ship House, and is said traditionally to have been a tavern, and frequented by the workmen whilst the Royal Hospital was building. The present structure, which was built in the beginning of the last century, has been distinguished for a great number of years as an eminent school. It is at present in the occupation of the Rev. John Wilson, D.D., of Holy Trinity Church, Knightsbridge.
Durham Place was built in 1790, by Mr. Richardson, who was for many years steward to the Lord of the Manor; he resided in the detached house adjoining, on the north, which had extensive grounds, and was called by him Manor House.
Green’s Row, a little eastward, was built in 1765. It was for many years the property of a Mr. Green, an extensive brewer. In one of these houses Henry Blunt, Esq., father of the late Rev. H. Blunt, resided for a considerable period. Mr. Blunt, sen., was universally respected in the parish. He held a commission in Queen Charlotte’s Chelsea Royal Volunteers.
In Rayner Place resided Philip Burrard, Esq., for many years. He served the office of churchwarden of the parish, &c., and was a captain in the old Chelsea Volunteers.
Mr. Robert Farrier, a celebrated artist and portrait painter, has resided in Hemus Terrace for some years. He is a very old inhabitant, and much respected.
Chelsea Royal Hospital.
On the site of this noble establishment—the home of our military veterans—was originally a college or place of education for controversial divines. It was projected by Dr. Sutcliffe, Dean of Exeter, in the reign of James I. The king was one of its best patrons, and supported it by various grants and benefactions; he himself laid the first stone of the edifice, in 1609; gave timber requisite for the building, and ordered that when erected it should be called “King James’s College at Chelsey.” Thus fortified, Dean Sutcliffe experienced no difficulty in obtaining from Charles, Earl of Nottingham, an advantageous lease of a plot of land which the latter held under the Crown, and which was called “Thame Shot,” for which he paid the yearly rent of seven pounds ten shillings. A charter of incorporation was granted, which limited the number of its members to a provost and nineteen fellows, of whom seventeen were to be in holy orders, the other two might be laymen. Their employment was to consist in noticing and recording the principal historical and religious events which might occur during the time they remained in office; but none of the members, on being elected bishops, could be permitted to retain their fellowships; by this charter, also, the college was enabled to use a corporate seal. The building, however, progressed but slowly. The Dean’s funds became exhausted; the proceeds of the king’s letter proved small. Out of two quadrangles which it was contemplated to erect, and of which the lesser was to be internally surrounded by a piazza, only a portion of one side was completed. Still the number of those who took an interest in the matter daily increased, and were far from despairing. “The work we confess,” says Darley, “hitherto proceeded slowly; and no marvel, seeing great works are not easily achieved. Noah’s Ark, God’s Tabernacle and Temple, &c., were long in building; and do we wonder that this college is not finished?”
Several causes contributed to render the king’s appeal through the medium of the bishops of slight avail. In the first place, the expenses attending the collection of briefs were then inordinate. The money, after it had been gathered, passed through many hands, each of which took care to attach a portion to itself; while the efforts made about the same time to push
In 1667, Charles II. resolved on granting this college to the Royal Society, which was about that time incorporated. And as a grant of the manor of Chelsea had been made to the Duke of Hamilton by Charles I., the heirs of that nobleman now conveyed it to Andrew Cole, in trust, for that learned body. The Society, however, did not hold their sittings in it, probably from its dilapidated state; they ultimately conveyed it, in 1681, to Sir Stephen Fox, for the king’s use, in order to build Chelsea Hospital, for the sum of £1,300.
I will now give a description of the establishment of Chelsea Hospital. The building, as it now stands, was begun by Charles II., continued during the short reign of his successor, and completed by William and Mary.
It has been just stated that the site of King James’s College was purchased of the Royal Society for the purpose of erecting this Hospital; but not being found sufficient, the lands lying between the College and the river Thames, and that in front of the present Hospital, now called Burton’s Court, were also purchased of Lord Cheyne and Sir Thomas Grosvenor, for about the sum of £1100. About twenty-two acres of this land, lying on the eastern side, were, in 1690, granted by the Crown to the Earl of Ranelagh.
“What ails thee, Nell?”
She replied: “A dream I had last night, troubleth me sore.”
“What was thy dream, Nell?”
“Methought I was in the fields at Chelsea, and slowly and majestically there rose before mine eyes, a beautiful palace of a thousand chambers; and in and out thereat walked divers many old and worn-out soldier-men. Some had lost a leg, some an arm, others were blind of an eye, many bore piteous scars of old wounds in the wars, upon their wrinkled faces, and all of them were aged, and past service. But none of them looked ill-at-ease, and as they went out, and as they came in, the old men cried, ‘God bless King Charles!’ and I awoke, and was sore discomfitted, that it was only a dream!”
“Cheer up, Nelly,” said the King. “Thy dream shall be fulfilled, mayhap, thou shalt yet see old soldiers come in, and go out, crying, ‘God bless King Charles!’ The monarch did violence to his infirmity, and kept his word.”
No appeal seems to have been made to the public at large, as was the case with King James’s College; but while the voluntary contributions of the charitable were received with gratitude, the troops were, to a certain extent, burdened with the expenses of the asylum from which they were themselves to derive the sole benefit. From the pay given to these, a deduction was made of one shilling in the pound; which, being divided into three equal parts, was one to defray the expenses of the Paymaster’s office, one to the general use of the soldiers, and one to the accumulation of a fund, first, for the building, and ultimately for the maintenance of the hospital. By giving to this a retrospective effect, so as to include the whole of the year 1680, and strengthened by donations of £1,300 from Sir Stephen Fox, of £1,000 from Tobias Rustas, Esq., of £1,000 from Sancroft, Archbishop of Canterbury, and of nearly £7,000 from the Secret Service Fund, the projectors of the establishment had at their disposal a sum of £17,012 14s. 7d. with which they determined to make a beginning.
Sir Christopher Wren, to whose genius and abilities we owe the grandest edifices of which our metropolis can boast, gave the original design, and conducted the building to its completion.
Chelsea Hospital is generally considered to be a fine specimen of Sir Christopher Wren’s professional abilities. It possesses a superior air of grandeur, more spacious arrangement of the principal parts, greater attention to the central points, for grace and effect, and a higher degree of chastity maintained in the whole structure than any public design entered into by Sir Christopher Wren, or his immediate successors.
At the grand entrance, from the King’s Road, are four detached stone piers, with breaks, with an entablature, on which are military trophies. These piers, by their disposure, give three passes; the iron gates much modernised; dwarf walls, having cornices in succession, containing small door-ways. Two lodges, right and left, carry on the line, containing four compartments, or blank windows each.
The central approach, from the King’s Road to the north general front of the Hospital, including the Royal Avenue, has a very imposing effect, with trees on either side.
It would be impossible to give in this work an architectural description of Chelsea Hospital, or of its arrangements. It is within the reach of every inhabitant of London, and now as our country friends have the benefit of frequent railway excursions, almost every person in the country, may at any time give this home of England’s worn out and gallant defenders a personal inspection. Still it is necessary that a general sketch of the building and grounds should be given. I have therefore extracted most of the following particulars from Mr. Gleig’s admirable work.
Chelsea Hospital occupies, with the buildings, courts, gardens, and offices attached, an area of something more than 54 square acres. Its principal courts, or quadrangles, are three in number;
The central court, which is open towards the south, and separated from what are called the water-gardens only by an iron railing, is closed in on the east and west by two ranges of buildings 365ft. in length by 40 in width; on the north and south by the hall and chapel, divided one from the other by a handsome cupola and gateway. In these long buildings, or wings, to the extent at least of 200ft. the old soldiers are chiefly housed—that is to say, such of them as are rated in the hospital books as privates, corporals, and sergeants. Sixteen wards or barracks arranged each into 26 bed places, furnish the men with adequate accommodation; while the sergeants occupy cabins, closed in, one at each extremity of the ward, in which it is their duty to preserve order. For the captains and light-horse distinct lodgings are provided. At the southern extremity of each wing, so as to project into the water-gardens, are the apartments of the Governor and the Lieutenant-Governor, both comfortable dwellings, altogether free from ostentation, yet well fitted for the uses of the distinguished officers to whom the honour of presiding over the first of England’s military establishments may be assigned.
“Go with old Thames, view Chelsea’s glorious pile,
And ask the shatter’d hero whence his smiles;
Go view the splendid domes of Greenwich—go,
And own what raptures from reflection flow.”—Rogers.
The Chapel and Hall present, when examined from without, a perfect uniformity of appearance. Each has its plain brick front, indented with tall arched windows; and each appears to lean upon the noble stone pillars that flank the central gateway; while along that face that looks in upon the square, is a piazza, or covered gallery. Beneath are benches, on which the old men may occasionally be seen smoking their pipes in the heat of a summer’s day; while from either end branches off a passage, opening out a communication with the lesser or flanking
The Hall is 110 ft. in length, and 30 in width; an oblong of the best proportions, in length, width, and height, befitting the purposes of the Royal Institution. Wainscotting with compartments rise to the sills of the windows, and is continued to the high pace. At the entrance end, compartments also, with a gallery supported by ornamented cantalivers; on the centre of the gallery a large ornamental shield with the Royal Arms of Charles II. most exquisitely carved.
Over the gallery is a large allegorical picture, painted by Ward, representing Field Marshal the Duke of Wellington, in a triumphal car, trampling upon the emblems of War, Anarchy, and Rebellion, whilst Victory is crowning him, and Peace and her attendant deities are following in her train. It was purposely painted for the Hospital, and a present from the British Institution. Concerts, in honour of Queen Anne’s coronation, were performed in the great Hall of the Hospital, in the year 1702, under the direction of Mr. Abel, singing master.
There is a statue of Charles II. in the centre of the square, cast in bronze, in the garb of a Roman warrior, and facing the north. It is said to be the production of Gibbons; but as a mere work of art, it cannot be very highly commended.
With respect to the lesser or flanking squares, they are given up entirely to the lodgings of the officers of the establishment, to public offices, including clerks’ chambers, board-room, &c., and, as has just been stated, to the accommodation of a certain number of captains and light-horsemen. In both, the buildings are lower and less solid than those which surround the principal square. But the general character is the same throughout. Brick walls, inlaid with a profusion of square windows, all of them deep seated, and carefully touched in the mouldings; free-stone finishings to each angle, gateways flanked by free-stone pillars, and a roof universally high, and covered with grey shining slate, point to a period when, in the arrangement of such edifices, every approach to a classic model was in this country carefully eschewed.
Over the high table, and occupying the whole length of the western face, is another painting, which was designed and begun by Verrio, though finished by Henry Cook, representing Charles II. on horseback, surrounded by groups of heathen gods, with a distant view of Chelsea Hospital in the background. This painting was the gift of one of the Earls of Ranelagh. Flags and trophies, taken in battle, are suspended round the hall. These occupy, in a double row, the spaces that intervene between the windows, while in front of the music gallery, elevated above a bundle of spear handles, waves the Union jack. In the hall are double rows of tables, generally covered, as if all the inhabitants of the pile took here their meals; but the practice of dining together has long since died out. Among the officers it ceased in 1796; among the men some years previously.
Trial of General Whitelocke.—On Thursday, Jan. 30, 1808, this hall was prepared for the trial of this officer. The charges against him were in substance four, viz.:—
1. Having, contrary to the tenor of instructions, in the summons to Buenos Ayres, required that the civil officers and magistrates should be prisoners.
2. Exposing the army, in marching against Buenos Ayres, to a destructive discharge of musketry from the town.
3. Not being present personally on the advance against Buenos Ayres.
4. Surrendering the Fortress of Monte Video without necessity.
The Court, after having proceeded with the trial for several days, allowed the General a week for his defence; and on the 24th of March, the Secretary to H.R.H. the Commander-in-Chief communicated officially to General Whitelocke the sentence of the Court Martial, as approved by his Majesty, as follows:—“That the said Lieutenant-General Whitelocke be cashiered, and declared totally unfit and unworthy to serve his Majesty in any military capacity whatever.”
There have been two or three Courts of Inquiry, &c., convened at subsequent periods, but they created nothing like the interest that was shewn at the time of the above trial.
From the Hall to the Chapel the visitor passes across a noble vestibule lighted from above by a cupola, and which, besides serving as a communication to both apartments, constitutes the principal entrance into the Hospital itself. Over the altar is a fresco painting, which represents the Resurrection of our Saviour, sublimely described in the 28th chapter of St. Matthew’s Gospel. It is the production of Sebastian Ricci. The chapel bears the same proportions as the dining hall. It was consecrated by Dr. Compton, Bishop of London, on the 13th of October, 1691. The service of plate, for the use of the altar, was given by King James II.
The first organ was the gift of Major Ingram; but, in 1817, a new one was placed in the original case, built by Gray, at the expense of four hundred guineas. It contained at that time 704 pipes with 12 pedal pipes.
In the chapel are deposited the standards of Tippoo Saib, the whole of the eagles, thirteen in number, that were taken during the war with France, &c. Both the chapel and hall must be visited to be fully appreciated, and this remark equally applies to the different wards, the water-garden, and indeed every part of this noble establishment.
Chelsea Hospital is, of course, designed to furnish an asylum for those members of the regular army alone, whom wounds, sickness, or old age, may have totally disabled. Its inmates are therefore, in some way or other, invalids, that is to say, men affected by some infirmity, which, though not visible to the eye of the common spectator, is by the patient himself abundantly felt. For the reception of those who require admission into it, a spacious Infirmary has been erected, where the aged patients receive the best medical treatment and every requisite comfort.
Amongst the chaplains during this century may be mentioned the Rev. W. Haggitt, M.A., the Rev. Richard Yates, D.D., the Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A., and the Rev. G. Matthias, M.A., who at the present time holds the appointment.
THE HOSPITAL BURIAL GROUND, &c.
On the east side of the Hospital, adjoining Queen’s Road East, originally called Jews’ Row, is the cemetery, formerly used for the interment of the officers and pensioners belonging to the establishment. Near the entrance, on the right, is the tomb of Simon Box, the first pensioner there buried in 1692.
There is a very droll epitaph in this burial ground, to the memory of William Hiseland, which states that “when an hundred years old he took unto him a wife.” It appears he had served in the army 80 years. He was born in 1620, and died in 1732, so that at his decease he was 112 years old. A literary gentleman, referring to the above marriage, exclaimed, “Oh, the centenarian wooer and antidiluvian bridegroom—of what chronology was his bride? Let us hope she was as silly at one end of the mortal story, as he was in his second childhood, at the other!”
In this ground was buried General Sir William Fawcett, K.B., Governor of the Hospital, who died in 1804, aged 76. His remains were attended to the grave by the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Kent, and Cambridge, and by several noblemen and general officers.
Although Dr. Monsey was not buried here, yet, as he died in the Hospital, we must not omit to notice so remarkable a character. Sir Robert Walpole assiduously cultivated his acquaintance, and the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield acknowledged with gratitude the benefits he had derived from his medical assistance.
The character of Dr. Monsey, in point of natural humour, is thought to have borne a near resemblance to that of Dean Swift. His classical abilities were indeed enviable, and his memory wonderfully retentive; insomuch that he was allowed to be a storehouse of anecdote. The exuberance of his wit, which, like the web of life, was of a mingled yarn, often rendered his conversation exceedingly entertaining, sometimes rather offensive, and at other times pointedly pathetic and instructive. Sir Robert Walpole knew and valued the worth of his “Norfolk Doctor,” as he called him; but though he knew it, he neglected it. The Prime Minister was very fond of billiards, at which his friend
The following anecdote is very characteristic of the Doctor’s turn of temper, and is said to be well attested. He lived so long in his office as physician to Chelsea Hospital, that, during many changes of Administration, the reversion of his place had been successively promised to several medical friends of the Paymaster-General of the Forces. Looking out of his window one day, and observing a gentleman below, examining the hospital and gardens, who he knew had secured the reversion of his place, the Doctor came down stairs, and going out to him, accosted him thus:—“Well, sir, I see you are examining your house and garden, that ARE TO BE, and I will assure you they are both very pleasant and very convenient. But I must tell you one circumstance—you are the fifth man that has had the reversion of the place, and I have buried them all. And what is more,” continued he, looking very scientifically at him, “there is something in your face that tells me I shall bury you too!” The event justified the prediction, for the gentleman died some years after; and, what is still more extraordinary, at the time of the Doctor’s death there was not a person who seems to have even solicited the promise of a reversion. He died in 1788, aged 94.
On a table monument is an inscription to the memory of John Wilson, Esq., Deputy Treasurer of Chelsea Hospital, and Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal Volunteers. He died of apoplexy in 1812, aged 56. The monument was erected by the officers of his regiment, as a token of their esteem.
Benjamin Moseley, M.D., thirty years physician to the hospital, was buried here in 1819, aged 73.
General Sir David Dundas, Governor of Chelsea Hospital, was buried here in 1820. His funeral was attended by the Duke of York, accompanied by his Staff.
Burial of a Female Dragoon.—Christiana Davis died at Chelsea in 1739. For several years she served as a dragoon, undiscovered, in the Royal Irish Enniskillen Regiment; but receiving a wound in her body she was then discovered, though her comrades had not the least suspicion of her being a woman.
Hannah Snell was also buried in this ground by her own desire. She enlisted, in 1745, in Guise’s Regiment of Foot, in which she served for some time, but deserted and enlisted in the Marines. She was severely wounded, and, on her recovery, sent to England. Her heroic conduct procured for her an annual pension of £30 for life. She also procured a pension from Chelsea Hospital, and after her discharge continued to wear her uniform. At length this poor creature became insane, and was placed in Bethlehem Hospital, where she died.
Charles Burney, Mus.D., author of the History of Music, &c., was buried here in 1814, aged 88; he was organist at Chelsea Hospital, and father of Madame D’Arblay, the authoress of Evelina, Cecilia, and Camilla. She was also for many years the organist.
Many a distinguished officer and old veteran have been interred in this ground. Amongst the pensioners some have lived to a great age. Thomas Asbey, buried in 1737, aged 112.—John Rogers, 1764, aged 103.—Robert Cumming, 1767, aged 116.—Peter Dowling, 1768, aged 102.—Peter Burnet, 1773, aged 107.—Joshua Cueman, 1794, it is stated, aged 123.—Richard Swifield, 1805, aged 105.—Abraham Moss, 1805, aged 106.—John Wolf, 1821, aged 107.—John Salter, 1827, aged 104. I have frequently conversed with the latter centenarian. In his youth he must have been a fine-built man, standing upwards of six feet high. He might often be seen, even within a short time of his death, sweeping away the autumn leaves in the walks of the hospital grounds, as a matter of choice. Such a circumstance suggests many serious reflections, which I leave to the reader to supply. There is also said to be an inmate at the present time, aged 106.
OLD RANELAGH GARDENS.
Adjoining the Royal Hospital, on the eastern side, stood the mansion of Richard, Earl of Ranelagh. This nobleman, about
The Rotunda was opened with a public breakfast, &c., in 1742. It was an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome. The external diameter was 185 ft., the internal 150 ft. The entrances were by four Doric porticos opposite each other, and the first story was rustic; round the whole, on the outside, was an arcade, and over it a gallery, the stairs to which were at the porticos. The interior was fitted up with great taste, and from the ceiling descended 28 chandeliers, in two circles. Music and dancing were the principal attractions. From the branches of the trees that shaded every walk festoons of coloured lamps hung down. Royalty, nobility, and gentry visited it.
Presentation of Colours to the Chelsea Volunteers.
On the 4th of January, 1804, a brilliant scene was displayed at Ranelagh, on the presentation of Colours to the Chelsea Royal Volunteers. About noon the trumpet announced the arrival of the Courtly party in three of his Majesty’s carriages, followed by others belonging to different noblemen. The company having alighted, Lady Harrington was conducted to her box by the Vice-Chamberlain. The Countess being seated two pairs of Colours were introduced, and placed on each side of the royal box. The King’s Colours of each regiment consisted of a plain Union standard, but the regimental one, which was designed and executed by the Queen and Princesses, was a superb piece of needlework, the ground being a rich purple silk, having in the centre his Majesty’s arms, embroidered and surrounded with sprigs of variegated tints and figures. At the lower corners were the letters “C. R.,” and under the
“Gentlemen,—Her Majesty having been graciously pleased to confer upon me the honour of presenting to you these Colours, I am anxious to express how highly I am flattered by this distinguished mark of the Queen’s favour. At a time of all others the most awful, when our country is threatened with the unprovoked attack of a most implacable enemy, and when you have evinced your readiness to stand forward in the defence of everything that is most dear to us all, what can be more gratifying to you than being so particularly distinguished by her Majesty, and receiving your Colours from her? Animated as your hearts must be in gratitude to the Queen, in addition to every other noble sentiment that has guided you, from the moment of the first offer of your services, it would not only be superfluous, but presumptuous in me, to add anything more upon the occasion than the expression of every fervent wish for your success in the event of the enemy carrying his threats into execution; confident that no power, however strenuously exerted, will ever wrest these Colours from you while there is yet left a man in your corps to defend them.”
To this speech a suitable answer was made by Lord Hobart, who expressed, in behalf of the corps, the most patriotic and grateful sentiments.
Subsequent Directors turned Ranelagh into mere Assembly and Concert Rooms, and the gardens for a display of fire-works. It soon ceased to be an attractive promenade, and the brilliant display of beauty it had made for years was seen no more.
In 1805 an order was made for taking down Ranelagh House, which had been the residence of Sir Thomas Robinson, and the Rotunda. The furniture was sold by auction, and the entire buildings. General Wilford became the purchaser of a portion of the land, on which he erected a large house, and resided in it for many years. The ruins of some of the original buildings belonging to Ranelagh Gardens remained for a considerable time afterwards. In the front of General Wilford’s house, on the north, some excellent cricket matches were played, for Chelsea then abounded with first-rate cricketers.
THE ORIGINAL CHELSEA BUNHOUSE.
Chelsea was famous for its buns from the commencement of the last century. Swift, who lodged in Church Lane (street), and used to walk to and from town, “two good miles, and just 5748 steps,” writes to Stella, in 1712, “Pray, are not they fine buns sold here in our town? * * * Was it not r-r-r-r-r-r rare Chelsea buns? I bought one in my walk.” This old bunhouse was a rather long building of one storey, with a colonnade in front, projecting over the pavement, the dwelling-house attached to it standing in the rear, with a large and well-kept garden behind it. It was situated in what was called Grosvenor Row, known as such at the time the bunhouse was pulled down, the site of which is a little eastward beyond the boundary line of this parish, and not far distant from Chelsea Hospital. George II. and Queen Caroline, and the princesses, bought buns here; as did George III. and Queen Charlotte, who presented to the proprietor a silver half gallon mug, and five guineas in it. Here, on Good Friday morning, £250 has been taken for buns; and so lately as 1839 no less than 240,000 buns were sold here on Good Friday. This may appear to many an incredulous number; but few persons at the present time can form an adequate idea of the immense demand for them.
The Rev. J. B. Owen, of St. Jude’s, Chelsea, in one of his admirable lectures, delivered in 1860, humourously observed, “There is no poetry more delicate, nor was street music more
O flour of the ovens! a zephyr in paste!
Fragrant as honey, and sweeter in taste!
Hail to the bellman, who sings as he runs,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’As flaky and white as if baked by the light,
As the flesh of an infant, soft, doughy, and slight;
The public devour thee like Goths and Huns,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’Prelates, and princes, and lieges, and kings,
Hail for the bellman, who tinkles and sings,
Bouche of the highest and lowliest ones,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’Like the home of your birth, or the scent of a flower,
Or the blush of the morning on field or bower,
There’s a charm in the sound which nobody shuns,
Of ‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’
This bunhouse had become so famous, not only throughout London, but for several miles round it, that not to visit Chelsea on Good Friday, and purchase some of the “rare buns,” was considered as unaccountable amongst a certain class—such as the servants of the nobility and gentry, shopmen, mechanics, and apprentices—as it would have been for them to acknowledge that they had never heard of Greenwich Fair. But this part of Chelsea, and the adjoining “Five Fields,” now Eaton and Belgrave Squares, actually did represent a minor Greenwich Fair. From my own personal observation I should say, provided the weather was favourable, there were generally on Good Fridays nearly 200,000 persons collected in the immediate neighbourhood. It was a fair to all intents and purposes. In the “Five Fields” there were drinking booths, swings, gingerbread stalls, nine-pins being played, gaming, and all the other vicious “entertainments” which annually disgraced the metropolis in former times. Such was the pressure of the immense crowd at the bunhouse, from about three o’clock in the morning till five in the afternoon, that the only mode of supplying the demand for buns was by obtaining them through apertures in the shutters. The bunhouse, however, was very respectably conducted, and such scenes as I have described were only to be
There were many things very attractive at the original bunhouse. In it was a collection of pictures, models, grotesque, figures, and modern antiques. In a conspicuous position were two leaden figures of grenadiers of 1745; a plaster figure of William, Duke of Cumberland; a painting of the King and Queen seated; a model of the bunhouse, and of the exploits of a bottle conjurer. This celebrated building was pulled down some years since, and with it the olden charm fled.
Having thus arrived at the eastern boundary of the parish, I trace my steps through Queen’s Road East, formerly called Jews’ Row. Many years ago this road, for scenes of depravity, was as bad as any part of the East end of London; but it happily was confined to this limited locality, and arose from the circumstance that the Out-Pensioners from nearly all parts of the country had to come to Chelsea Hospital to receive their pensions, and disabled soldiers to pass the Board, &c., previously to being discharged from the army. The Government at length wisely altered the arrangement for paying the Out-Pensioners, and they now receive their pensions in districts nearer to where they dwell, which prevents their being put to the expense of coming to London, being robbed by “sharpers,” or beset by prostitution. Jews’ Row, and its former scenes, comparatively speaking, have passed away, and what remains of vice and crime, in some of the crammed courts leading from it to Turks’ Row, is gradually disappearing, through the exertions of the Rev. J. B. Owen, M.A., of St. Jude’s Church, the District Visitors, and other agencies. These courts will probably be cleared away before many years have elapsed, and Queen’s Road East will then become one of the leading and most attractive thoroughfares in the parish of Chelsea.
One very great improvement took place some few years since. The Burial Ground was enclosed by a high dismal-looking old wall, which was pulled down, and a new one built, not more than three feet high, on which a neat iron-railing is placed, thus removing much vice and preventing many robberies, and rendering the road perfectly safe.
George Saunders, at the inquest, stated that when the alarm was given he entered the house, and, on lifting up the servant, Mary Williams, there were signs of life, but she expired in two or three minutes. Mr. Silva was alive, but speechless, and died shortly afterwards. He found in a closet in the kitchen two iron chests, unlocked, and empty. In the front room, one pair of stairs, a bureau open, with the drawers out, and the papers in confusion, and on the floor a quantity of bedding, folded up.
Mr. North, surgeon, gave a fearful account of the wounds received, and the jury, after a lengthened investigation, found a verdict of wilful murder by persons unknown.
A nephew of Mr. Silva was taken up on suspicion, and examined at Bow Street. He shewed, by respectable evidence, that he was at home when the murder was committed, and was discharged. This person, however, afterwards committed suicide, and he was buried in the highway at Chelsea, leaving great doubts of his innocency of the crime.
Royal Military Asylum.
On the site of the Royal Military Asylum stood a capital mansion, the residence for many years of the Cadogan family, and afterwards the property of Sir Walter Farquhar, Bart., of whom it was purchased for the purpose of erecting the present Institution.
The Royal Military Asylum for the children of soldiers of the regular army is situated near the Royal Hospital, on the north east. It was built by Mr. Copland, from the designs of Mr. Sanders. On the 19th of June, 1801, the first stone of this structure was laid by the Duke of York, accompanied by many general officers, and a considerable number of the nobility. The motives which gave rise to the establishment, and the principles
The ground in front of this spacious building is laid out in grass plots and gravel walks, and planted with trees. The edifice forms three sides of a quadrangle; it is built of brick, with an elegant stone balustrade in the centre of the western front, which is ornamented with a noble portico of the Doric order, consisting of four columns, which support a large and well-proportioned pediment. On the frieze is the following inscription:—“The Royal Military Asylum for the Children of Soldiers of the Regular Army.” Over it are the Imperial arms. The north and south wings are joined to the principal front by a colonade, which forms a good shelter for the boys in wet weather.
The vestibule is in the centre of the grand front. On the left and right are the dining halls, 80 ft. long and 30 ft. wide. Over these are the schoolrooms, of the same dimensions. The committee-room is over the vestibule.
The north wing contains the apartments of the Commandant, Surgeon, Quartermaster, and dormitories for the boys; the south wing, apartments for the Adjutant and Secretary, the Masters of the Normal and Model Schools, and dormitories.
On the south of the grounds stands the Normal School of the Royal Military Asylum, in which reside the Students who are being trained for Schoolmasters in Her Majesty’s army.
The Chapel was consecrated in 1824, and is calculated to contain the whole of the establishment, with accommodation for upwards of 100 visitors.
The girls were removed to Southampton in 1823, and the boys in that institution removed to Chelsea, so that now the latter contains only boys, and the former only girls.
The King and Queen of the Sandwich Islands paid a visit to the Royal Military Asylum in the year 1824. Their Majesties were attended by Major-General Sir Willoughby Gordon, and appeared much delighted with the establishment, the nature of which was explained to them by the interpreter. They were received by the full band playing “God save the King,” and were highly gratified with the skill of the juvenile musicians. After having seen the children at dinner, their Majesties witnessed the various gymnastic exercises, and at their departure were saluted by the hearty cheers of the youthful regiment, which was drawn up before them.
His late Royal Highness the Duke of York was the founder of this Institution, and constantly bestowed his best exertions in promoting the welfare, and increasing the comforts, of the helpless inmates nurtured within its walls. On his last visit, the children crowded round their benefactor, and gave him three hearty cheers. Such was the effect produced by it that the Duke could not refrain from shedding tears; and, patting the head of the foremost boy, he ejaculated, as he passed down the steps, “God bless you, my lads.”
On the 7th of January, 1827, a sermon was preached by the Rev. G. Clark, M.A., chaplain, on the demise of the Royal Founder, at the conclusion of which he thus addressed the children:—“I need not tell you that it has pleased Almighty God to take away from this world the President of this Institution, the Duke of York. He was the firm friend of your fathers, and also a kind and steady friend to you, their children. Whatever advantages you enjoy in this Asylum, you owe, under Divine Providence, to the Duke of York. He was the founder of this Institution, and by his recommendations and exertions it was begun and completed. Many of you will remember this good friend who is now taken from us. A few months ago you beheld him walk through your ranks; you saw in his countenance the pleasure he felt from witnessing the healthy and creditable appearance of so many children of British soldiers. I exhort you to hold his memory in your hearts and affections;
The following tribute to the memory of the Duke of York was written by Dr. Veitch, at that time physician to the Chelsea Dispensary:—“The knowledge which his late Royal Highness possessed of human nature, and what was becoming the character of British soldiers, induced him to impress on their minds a system of discipline at once correct and conveying lofty feelings; so that men thus trained were at all times ready to prefer death to subjugation. We may here say, with truth, that to the love of his country and the army he has prematurely fallen a victim. No self-gratification, no pleasures, were ever by him allowed to interfere with the duties he owed to the army and his country, and however late his hour of going to rest, he was invariably the first man at his post in the morning. We find individuals who are distinguished as statesmen, as admirals, as generals, but who are without the smallest pretensions to true greatness, because their talents and their courage are not blended with the chivalrous, the gallant, and finer inspirations flowing from the heart. Such men are generally anxious enough that their services should be appreciated by their Sovereign, while they overlook what they owe to others who have mainly contributed to their fame and to their fortune. The late illustrious Duke had no such narrowness; his soul was surrounded with generous and delicate attributes, rendering all periods of his splendid career utterly inaccessible to deeds of darkness, and also ever ready to expand to the light of truth, to the claims of justice and of humanity; and he is therefore eminently entitled to the character of a great man; because his high attainments in military affairs were combined with an exalted and refined sense of courage and of honour.”
Lieutenant-Colonel George Williamson, the first Commandant of the Royal Military Asylum, died Sept. 6, 1812, and his remains were interred in the Burial Ground of the Royal Hospital on the 11th of that month. In consequence of the respect in which his memory was held by his Royal Highness the Commander in Chief, and the Commissioners of the Asylum, it was determined that he should be honoured with a military funeral; and his body was followed to the grave by the above-mentioned royal and illustrious personages. The procession was received, at the front entrance of the Royal Hospital, by the officers of that establishment, and conducted by the chaplains
About the year 1810 part of the glebe opposite to the Royal Military Asylum was purchased, under the authority of an Act of Parliament, for the use of this Institution; and other land, at Merton, in Surrey, was bought with the money as glebe to the Rectory of Chelsea.
In concluding this brief description of the Royal Military Asylum, it may justly be observed that the contemplation of such a noble fabric is calculated to excite the liveliest emotions of gratitude for having been born in a country which abounds with charitable institutions. To the soldier it must continually afford the most pleasing prospects for the comfort and support of his infant children, and it will induce him to serve, if possible, with greater confidence and energy, feeling assured that if he falls in battle his country has provided a home for his helpless children.
ST. JUDE’S CHURCH.
This Church is situated in Turks’ Row, almost adjoining the extreme southern side of the Royal Military Asylum. The first stone of the edifice was laid in August, 1843, and it was consecrated and opened for Divine Service in June, 1844. The Rev. John Patterson, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and on his leaving Chelsea, the Rev. Shadwell Morley Barkworth, M.A., succeeded him. The present Incumbent is the Rev. J. B. Owen, M.A., who has laboured most zealously in the District some years. To his indefatigable exertions, and to the visitations of the District Visitors, &c., connected with the Church, much of the demoralization which generally prevailed in the numerous
Proceeding in an easterly direction we arrive at what was formerly known as White Lion Street. Here very considerable improvements have been effected. The whole of one side of this street has been pulled down, by which means there is now a good road from the Suspension Bridge to Knightsbridge.
CHELSEA CHAPEL.
This Chapel was erected in 1865, and is situated on a part of the site we have just described, adjoining Lower Sloane Street. The Church worshipping within its sacred walls formerly occupied Paradise Chapel, Queen’s Road West, which still remains, and which was originally a school room belonging to a scholastic establishment, which occupied for many years the site of Calthorpe Place. It is still retained by the members of the above Church as a Ragged School.
The Chapel is a plain white brick building, without any particular attempt at architectural display. Mr. James Cubitt was the architect. It will seat probably 1000 persons. There is a schoolroom underneath the Chapel, which will contain about 600 adults, in which there is a Day School for Girls and Infants in the week, and the Sunday School is also held in it, which numbers about 200. The Rev. Frank H. White, who resides in Hemus Terrace, is the Minister, and is much esteemed not only by the members of the church, but by all with whom he is associated in life.
I must now proceed to Sloane Street, where first “I drew the breath of life,” and which is consequently endeared to me by recollections of the very earliest events of my life.
A very great improvement has at last been made at Grosvenor Bridge, in ancient times called Blandel Bridge. Its name was probably corrupted to “Bloody Bridge,” in consequence of the numbers of robberies and murders formerly committed on this spot. The entrance here into the parish, at the eastern end of Sloane Square, has been after years of delay considerably widened, and some spacious shops erected. There is also now an Underground Railway Station, and the West London Commercial Bank has likewise extensive premises in Sloane Square, both of which will confer very great advantages on the inhabitants of Chelsea, and the public in general.
Trinity Church, Upper Chelsea.
This Church is situated at the south end of Sloane Street, near Sloane Square. It is a brick structure of Gothic architecture, the western front consisting of a centre flanked by two wide towers rising to a level with the roof, and terminating with lofty octagonal spires. A large entrance door occupies the space from tower to tower to the height of the first division, giving access both to nave and aisles, over which stands a large window separated by two mullions, with trefoil headings slightly ornamented; above this is placed a circular stone surrounded by tracery, intended, probably, at some future period for a clock. The towers to the first blocking course are plain, but above they are enriched with trefoil-headed windows, divided into two compartments, slender buttresses separating the towers octagonally to the summit, crowned by a battlement and surmounted by obtuse-headed pinnacles. At each side of the centre great door there is a smaller one for ingress and egress to the aisles and galleries.
The late Rev. H. Blunt, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and when he resigned the Rev. Richard Burgess, B.D., the present Rector of the Church, succeeded him. Trinity Church, from its consecration in 1830, has always been very numerously attended.
In the Church are several tablets, amongst them is one to the memory of the Rev. H. Blunt.
SLOANE TERRACE WESLEYAN CHAPEL.
This Chapel was built in 1811. It is a neat and substantial edifice. The galleries extend round three sides of the interior, and the whole will accommodate about 1200 persons. The erection of this place of worship is to be attributed to the liberality of several beneficent gentlemen, among whom may be especially mentioned Joseph Butterworth, Esq., who, at that time, had summer apartments in Chelsea. The attention of these Christian friends had been arrested by observing a large number of the middling and poorer classes, in the vicinity of Jews’ Row, wandering about upon the mornings of the Sabbath. They accordingly took a large room, or small chapel, at nearly the end of George Street, and subsequently erected Sloane Terrace Chapel. The congregation and the members rapidly increased, and at various times many alterations have been made so as to render the chapel and schoolrooms more commodious. It is a pleasing thought, that, amidst a vast amount of Sabbath desecration, there is not a Church or Chapel in the parish, where the Sabbath School is not well attended.
Thomas Hoblyn, Esq., who for many years was the Rector’s Churchwarden at St. Luke’s Parish Church, occupied a house at the corner of Cadogan Street, Sloane Street. He was one of several newly-appointed magistrates, about the time of the passing of the first Local Act of Parliament for the better assessing and collecting the Poor’s Rate, &c.
The above house is now occupied as an Industrial Home for Girls, one of the many admirable institutions which reflect so much credit upon that part of Chelsea.
Captain G. Bague, R.N., resided also in Sloane Street, nearly opposite Cadogan Place, for a long period. He was made a magistrate for the county at the same time as Mr. Hoblyn.
The late Rev. H. Blunt, M.A., resided for a considerable time in Sloane Street.
The late Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke, Bart., resided for some years at 72, Sloane Street. He died in 1869, at St. Petersburgh, after a short illness, which unexpectedly proved fatal, at the age of 58. He was born in London in 1810, was the only son of the late Mr. Charles Wentworth Dilke, chief proprietor and at one time editor of the AthenÆum newspaper, and subsequently the manager of the Daily News, and who died about eight years ago. His mother was Maria, daughter of Mr. E. Walker. He was educated at Westminster School, and subsequently at Trinity Hall, Cambridge, where he took his degree in Law instead of Arts. In early life he was associated with the literary labours of his father, whom he largely aided by his cultivated tastes, his wide range of information, sound judgment, and habits of business. He was one of the earliest promoters of the first Great Exhibition, and, indeed, acted as the leading member of the Executive Committee. The fact of his occupying such a position naturally brought Mr. Dilke into close and frequent contact with the late Prince Consort, who was much struck with the ability he displayed, and at whose suggestion the honour of knighthood was offered to him in recognition of his services. That honour, however, he declined; and with it
The present Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke, Bart., M.P., resides at his late father’s house in Sloane Street. He has extensively travelled in America, and has published a very interesting work, entitled “Greater Britain,” and is the author of several pamphlets on social and political topics.
The Pavilion, Hans Place.—A few particulars respecting this once beautiful estate will no doubt be interesting to many of the readers of this work. When Mr. Holland took the lease of the land, formerly known as “Blacklands,” now Upper Chelsea, he reserved to himself 21 acres of it, on which he built an elegant house for his own residence. This was called the Pavilion, and it was purchased of Mr. Holland’s executors by Peter Denys, Esq., and became afterwards the property of his relict, the Right Hon. Lady Charlotte Denys, who resided in it with her family for some years afterwards. It consisted of three sides of a quadrangle, open to the north, and the approach was from Hans Place. The house was superbly furnished.
The south front faced an extensive and beautifully-planted lawn, gently rising to the level of the colonnade and principal floor. This front was originally built as a model for the Pavilion at Brighton, and was ornamented by a colonnade of the Doric order, extending the whole length of the building.
On the west side of the lawn was an Ice-house, round which was erected an admirable representation of the ruins of an ancient Priory, in which the appearance of age and decay was strikingly faithful. The Gothic stone-work was brought from the ancient demolished residence of Cardinal Wolsey, at Esher, in Surrey. The lawn was ornamented by a fine sheet of water, which produced a most pleasing effect. The Priory displayed considerable variety of fanciful intricate paths and scenery, profusely ornamented with shrubs, and had a private communication with the house by the walks of the shrubbery.
Lady Charlotte Denys gave annually a treat to the children of the “Hans Town Schools,” &c., and had booths erected in which they partook of tea, whilst others contained fruit and playthings to amuse them. On these occasions the inhabitants were admitted to witness the pleasing juvenile scene.
Hans Place, Sloane Street.—Miss Landon (L.E.L.) was born in “snug Hans Place” in 1802, and spent the greater portion of her life in it. She went to school at No. 22, kept by Miss Rowden, who published “A Poetical Introduction to the Study of Botany,” and “The Pleasures of Friendship,” and at length became the Countess of St. Queutin.
Among the inmates of the same house have been Lady Caroline Lamb, who married the Hon. W. Lamb, afterwards Viscount Melbourne, Miss Mitford, Lady Bulwer, &c.
Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Wigan, the talented artistes, resided for some time in Hans Place.
ST. SAVIOUR’S CHURCH.
This Church is situated a little to the north of Hans Place, and near to Walton Street. The exterior has no particular pretensions to architectural display. The interior is neat, and possesses a greater degree of architectural design. It will seat probably more than 1000 persons. The Rev. W. Niven, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and retained it until recently, when the Rev. George Weldon, M.A., succeeded him. Of Mr. Niven it may justly be said that he was zealous and faithful, kind to the poor, and respected by all classes. There are excellent schools and many charitable societies which are liberally supported by the contributions of the congregation.
Cadogan Place.—These capital houses were principally erected by Mr. W. Whitehead, sen., on part of the land leased originally to Mr. Holland, as previously mentioned. Amongst the residents at different periods may be selected the names of Capt. Acklom, R.N.; Thomas Bryan, Esq.; W. B. France, Esq.; each of whom were made magistrates for the county at the same time as Mr. Hoblyn and Capt. Bague; C. Hopkinson, Esq.; H. Warburton, Esq., M.P.; Sir William Clay, M.P.; Dr. Veitch; the Rev. Richard Burgess, and the Rev. J. B. Owen.
In Little Cadogan Place Mr. William Whitehead, jun., lived for a great many years. He was an extensive builder, and occupied a very prominent position in the parish.
Botanic Gardens, Sloane Street.—This garden was first planned and laid out in 1807, by Mr. Salisbury. The extent of ground was about six acres, and formed a delightful promenade for company. In the original plan the whole collection of plants was arranged according to the system of LinnÆus, and was disposed of in seventeen different compartments. When Mr. Tate, in the year 1820, took possession of the premises, the inhabitants, wishing to make it a public promenade, the above arrangement was entirely superseded, and the interior of the ground laid out and converted into a Nursery. Mr. Tate, however, still devoted the hothouses and greenhouses to the raising of curious and rare exotics. Mr. Tuck, nurseryman and seedsman, is now in possession of a portion of the ground, but the whole presents a very different appearance to what it did many years ago.
Upon the site of the west end of Cadogan Street stood an ancient house, inhabited, in Bowack’s time, by Lady Matthews; it was afterwards known for many years as the Marlborough Tavern and Cricket Grounds. It is probable that the house was first established as a tavern during the life-time of the great Duke of Marlborough, who, it is said, resided at one time in Chelsea; hence Blenheim Street, &c., all contiguous.
The old Admiral Keppel Inn, with its tea gardens, was pulled down in 1856, on the site of which is now a large tavern.
Chelsea Common was called in ancient records Chelsea Heath. It was bounded on the north by the Fulham Road; on the east by Blacklands Lane, now Marlborough Road; on the south by College Place, abutting on the King’s Road; and on the west by Sydney Street. It was attached to the Manor. Certain ancient houses, cottages, and farms, had a right of pasturage for forty cows and twenty heifers. To keep these there was always a cowkeeper, whose business it was to mark the cattle, to drive home the cows at night to the several owners, and to impound all cattle unmarked, or any horses which broke into the Common, or were found there.
When the Old Church was to be rebuilt, the Common was enclosed by the consent of Charles Cheyne, Esq., Lord of the Manor, and the several proprietors, for 21 years, to defray part of the charges, by a lease bearing date March 1674, and thereby let to George Hill and Francis Guildford, who enclosed it, and quietly enjoyed it till 1695, when it was thrown open again. It would be an unnecessary waste of space to notice what took place for some years afterwards.
The Common (as was) has been for many years covered with houses, comprising Keppel Street, Whitehead’s Grove, College Street, Marlborough Square, Leader Street, &c.
The principal entrance to the Brompton County Court is in Whitehead’s Grove. The house was formerly occupied by the Rev. Dr. Roberts, who gave instruction to a limited number of young gentlemen who resided with him.
The Catholic Apostolic Church is situated in College Street, near to Whitehead’s Grove. The exterior has some claim to architectural design, although the entrance at the side is small, and there are no windows to give relief to its massive appearance. There is ample light, however, in the interior of the structure, and it is in every respect commodious.
The spacious Drill Hall belonging to the 1st Middlesex Engineer Volunteers is also in College Street, near to the Fulham Road, where recruits are enlisted.
MARLBOROUGH CHAPEL.
The old saying, “Where there is a will there is a way,” was never more clearly exemplified than in the erection of this chapel, which occupies the northern corner of Marlborough Square, and fully warrants the inscription engraven on its summit, “This is the Lord’s doing, it is marvellous in our eyes.” The necessity of having a place of worship in the Methodist connexion had long been felt by many in the neighbourhood, and a room was consequently taken in Pond Place, but as it proved unsuitable for the purpose, Mr. Cripps, of Keppel Street, was induced to open his large workshop for a Thursday evening service, and having obtained a minister from the Hinde Street
The Brompton District Letter Sorting Post Office is situated nearly opposite to the northern side of St. Luke’s Cemetery. It was erected a few years ago, and is well adapted and arranged for the intended purposes.
Near to Sydney Street, and to the north of St. Luke’s Church, was formerly situated a solitary small house, known as Cock’s Hall. It was said to have been built by Captain Cock, a petty officer in the Royal Hospital. On a stone in the front of it was an inscription, “Built in 1710, rebuilt in 1767.”
Dr. Biber, author of “The Life of Pestalozzi,” and editor of the John Bull newspaper, resided for some time in Sydney Street, as did also Thomas Wright, Esq., the antiquary and historical writer.
Henry Warren, Esq., President of the New Society of Water Colour Painters, resided for some time opposite St. Luke’s Church, and at a subsequent period at the corner of Church Street, which house has been recently pulled down.
Robert Ratcliffe, the first Earl of Sussex of that family, and Lord High Chamberlain of England, died at his palace at Chelsea, November 26, 1542.
Robert Viscount Fitzwalter was created Earl of Sussex by Henry VIII. in 1527. He married first, Elizabeth, daughter of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham; secondly, Margaret, daughter of Thomas, Earl of Derby; thirdly, Mary, daughter of Sir John Arundel.
John Pym, a distinguished Member of the House of Commons, resided at Chelsea for several years.
Count D’Estrades, who came to England to negociate the sale of Dunkirk, as ambassador from Lewis XIV., resided at Chelsea during the years 1661 and 1662. This fact appears by the dates of his letters, of which a translation appeared in 1755. He had his first audience of his Majesty King Charles II. on the 27th of July of the former year. It was usual for the Foreign Ambassadors at that time to make their public entry
Count D’Estrades was invited by letters from the Chancellor himself, in order to conclude the bargain; £900,000 were demanded, £100,000 were offered. By degrees the English lowered their demands, and the French raised their offers. The bargain was concluded at £400,000.
Sir Robert Atkyns, either Chief Baron of the Exchequer, or his son, the historian of Gloucestershire, appears by the Parish Books to have resided in Chelsea in 1684.
Sir Robert Atkyns, K.B., was Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer under William III., which office he held with distinguished ability and integrity. This gentleman, by his influence, promoted the Revolution, and by his pen defended it in tracts replete with legal knowledge.
The Hon. Colonel Rieutort died at his house, Chelsea, on the 24th January, 1725–6, in his 66th year. He was born of a good family, at Montpelier, in France, where he early bore arms; and, having left his native country, on account of the Protestant religion, he attended William III. in the wars of Ireland. He afterwards served the Crown of Great Britain in Piedmont; and in 1703 assisted Count de Frise in the vigorous defence of Landau, then besieged by the French. In 1704, he went into Portugal with the Earl of Galway, who sent him to the relief of the Prince of Hesse, then closely beset in Gibraltar, where he contributed very much to the preservation of that important place. He was interred in Chelsea Church.
THE CANCER HOSPITAL.
This hospital is situated in the Fulham Road, almost facing the Consumption Hospital. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone was performed on Monday, May 30, 1859, by Miss Burdett Coutts, in the presence of a very numerous and respectable company, including Dr. Tait, Bishop of London, Archdeacon Sinclair, Rev. D. Coleridge, Rev. J. B. Owen, the Rev. Fathers Ballard and Bagshawe, Priests of the Oratory, at Brompton, &c.
Miss Coutts having deposited the bottle, with the usual contents, in a cavity in the lower stone and spread the mortar, the upper stone was duly lowered into its place, after which Miss Coutts gave the customary knocks and declared the stone duly laid.
The Rev. J. B. Owen next addressed the assembly, after which John Abel Smith, Esq., proposed thanks to Miss Coutts for having done them the honour of laying the foundation stone of the hospital. The Bishop of London said that he had been requested by Miss Coutts to acknowledge the compliment paid her, and to assure them that she should continue to take the greatest interest in the prosperity of the Institution.
The building has a frontage of 130 ft. and a depth of 50 ft., surrounded by an area of 10 ft., securing to the building the means of convenient external communication and ventilation. It is constructed of plain white Suffolk bricks, relieved with bands of red brick, keystones, and cornices of stone dressing. The lower story contains the kitchens, larders, and the rooms for the out-patients. The principal ground floor is approached by a flight of steps, and this contains the hall and a handsome staircase of stone, apartments for the house-surgeon and medical officers, and wards for patients. Apparatus for heating and ventilating the building is provided—everything, in short, that is calculated to add to the comforts and assist the recovery of the patients. On the first story are the wards. In the males it appears this direful disease shows itself more frequently in the face, lip, and tongue, and among some of them in the breast. Of the females nearly five-sixths suffer in the breast.
The building, in all its details, has been open about six years. It was erected from the design of David Mocatta, Esq., by Messrs. Lawrence, at a cost of £7,000. William Marsden, M.D. was the founder.
HOSPITAL FOR CONSUMPTION.
This is another admirable Institution, and, although it is situated just beyond the boundary of Chelsea parish, on the north of the Fulham Road, it has a very strong claim to be noticed in this work. It is a beautiful Elizabethan structure, built in the shape of the letter H, the depth of each wing being 190 ft., and the width of the building 200 ft. It stands in a square piece of ground covering three acres, and faces the public road. On entering the Lodge-gate there are three broad drives, one to the central entrance, which opens to a cheerful hall upon the first floor; another to the east entrance, which leads to the offices for the transaction of the hospital business; and the third to the west entrance, which is for the use of inmates and the friends of the in-patients on visiting days.
The ground floor is on a level with the gardens. The west wing and part of the centre of this floor contain the Dispensary and Out-patient-rooms, Laboratory, Museum, and Sitting-rooms of the Resident Clinical Assistants. The east wing contains the apartments of the Resident Medical Officer and Matron, Linen-room, Store-room, Secretary’s Office, Board-room, &c.
The first floor is devoted exclusively to Female Patients, saving small rooms for the Chaplain, and for each of the two Head Nurses, and the two requisite Sculleries, Baths, and Lavatories.
The arrangements of the second floor are precisely the same as those on the first floor; the wards being occupied by Male Patients, for whom there are about 107 beds.
The attic floor has comfortable dormitories for the Nurses and Servants, and in the Tower-rooms are the sleeping apartments of the Resident Clinical Assistants.
The Chapel stands on the north side of the hospital, and parallel with the centre portion. The approach is by a corridor opposite the front entrance, to which the patients have immediate access from their respective galleries. The chaplain is the Rev. E. B. Allen, B.A., whose faithful exhortations and kind manner of addressing the patients have gained for him the esteem of all who know his worth.
His late R.H. the Prince Consort laid the foundation stone of the hospital in 1844.
CHELSEA IMPROVEMENTS.
The Metropolitan Board of Works (Loans) Bill, empowering the Metropolitan Board of Works to raise money to construct the Chelsea Embankment, and to effect other improvements, having received the Royal assent, there is now no doubt that the Chelsea Embankment works will be very shortly commenced.
The Bills for the “Belgrave Market,” which will remove the unsightly block of buildings between Turk’s Row and Jew’s Row, and the “Belgravia and South Kensington New Road,” which will open a direct communication from Eaton Square to the South Kensington Museum, have also become law.
The works of the Albert Bridge are still suspended, but there is reason to hope that they will shortly be recommenced, and rapidly completed.
FIRST ELECTION OF MEMBERS FOR THE BOROUGH OF CHELSEA.
I will now endeavour to record a few impartial particulars respecting the proceedings on the day of election, with the ultimate state of the poll, when the two first members for the Borough of Chelsea were elected. The nomination took place on Tuesday, the 17th of November, 1868, and the election on the following day.
The candidates originally were C. Wentworth Dilke, Esq.,
R. Freeman, Esq., of Kensington, proposed Mr. C. W. Dilke, and John Boyd, Esq., of Argyll House, King’s Road, seconded the nomination.
Wingfield Baker, Esq., proposed Sir H. A. Hoare, and James Heywood, Esq., seconded.
The Hon. E. C. Curzon proposed Mr. Freake, and the Hon. Capt. Maude seconded the nomination.
General Sir A. S. Wangle proposed Dr. Russell, and Captain Morley seconded.
The show of hands was then taken, and there being a large majority for Mr. C. W. Dilke and Sir H. A. Hoare, the two liberal candidates, a poll was demanded on behalf of Dr. Russell and Mr. Freake, which took place on the following day, the 18th of November, 1868. The proceedings were of the most orderly character, generally speaking, at all the thirteen polling booths.
The state of the poll was declared to be as follows:—
| Dilke | 7,357 |
| Hoare | 7,183 |
| Russell | 4,177 |
| Freake | 3,929 |
About 2,000 persons were present, and the four candidates with their friends.
SINGULAR ASCENT IN THE CAPTIVE BALLOON.
A female inmate of St. George’s Workhouse, Fulham Road, named Hogg, having completed her hundredth year, August 3, 1869, was asked by Mr. Godrich, the medical officer, if, at her advanced age, there was any particular wish he could gratify. Her reply was that she should like to go up in the balloon, and see the world once more. Arrangements were made for the following Thursday, and, accompanied by the Matron and a few of Mr. Godrich’s friends, they ascended, and after enjoying themselves for some considerable time descended quite safely, the centenarian expressing herself much delighted with the aerial trip.
I have at length arrived at the conclusion of my work, and it now only remains for me to bid the reader a respectful FAREWELL.
Errata.—At page 68, line 10, read “East Meon, Hants,” instead of “East Mere, Hants.”
FREDERICK BELL, PRINTER, KING’S ROAD.
