Apex—The tip or point—e.g., of a cone or wedge.
Backed Cloth—Cloth which, in addition to the faced fabric, bears bound underneath a layer either of extra weft, extra warp, or of another cloth. The term is usually applied to the first-named variety.
Bar—A term applied to a single strip of coloured weft, used as heading or cross border.
Beam—The flanged roller on which the warp yarn is wound, either at the beam, warping, sizing, or dressing machines; also applied to the full beam.
Beer—Twenty dents or splits in a reed, also 40 ends—i.e., two ends to each split.
Bevel—A cog wheel, having the teeth set at an angle with the shaft on which it moves, but in the some plane, unless a skew-gear bevel.
Bitting—Drawing in additional ends at the side of healds and reeds in case of a wider warp having to be used.
Bobbin—A flanged wooden cylinder.
Borders—The stripe running along the side of a piece of cloth—formed either by different colour, counts of yarn, or weave, from the centre.
Box Motion—Arrangement for operating the shuttle boxes in check weaving.
Bracket—An attachment bolted to a framing for the support of other apparatus.
Cam or Camb—A plate revolving on a shaft, having its circumference other than circular, thus giving a reciprocating motion to any lever actuated by it.—Applied in some districts to the shedding tappets and picking plates.
Cellulose—A botanical term referring to an organic substance of which the cotton fibre principally consists, and being composed of six atoms of carbon with five of water, or C6H10O5.
Cloth—The technical name for woven cotton fabrics: although cloth is the popular name for woollen and worsted fabrics, and cotton is usually called calico, or some such name, yet in the trade the name of cloth is always given to cotton goods.
Compass Board—Another name for the cumber board.
Cop—The cylindrical coil of yarn formed at the mule, or, in the case of two-fold yarn, at the twiner.
Cord—The bands used in attaching the healds to the heald-rollers, or lambs—i.e., heald cords; also a very coarse thread, used as a heading or stripe border; a name given to a cloth bearing a stripe, formed by using cord warp yarn; and also a contraction of corduroy.
Counts—A system of indicating the fineness of yarn, written by placing ’s after the figures signifying the number of hanks per lb.—thus, “40’s”; otherwise, grist or numbers.
Cover—A name given to the downy appearance of cloth or yarn.
Cross-band—Sometimes applied to yarns spun twist-way, in contradistinction to open-band.
Cross-border—A heading to a piece of cloth or handkerchief, either formed by coloured or other weft, or by a change in the pattern.
Cumber Board—The perforated frame for the guidance of the harness in the jacquard or some dobby shedding motions.
Cutting—The severance of the pile warp or pile weft in a fabric which requires the slitting of some filament, so as to produce a nap, formed by short threads presenting their section on the face of the cloth.
Cut—A length of warp required to weave a piece of cloth; also the piece when woven.
Deliquescent—A substance which tends to liquefy in the air—thus, chloride of magnesium tends to retain dampness and cause a fabric in which it is present to become moist.
Dent—A space between the wires of a reed, otherwise split.
Draft—A plan showing the order in which the ends are drawn through the healds (see page 94).
Elongated Twills—Twilled cloth, in which the wale extends a greater distance than usual before reaching the other side of the fabric, caused by weaving two or more picks before altering the risen ends forming the wale. These twills do not run at an angle of 45 degrees.
End—The technical name for a thread.
Entering Draft—The system of drawing the warp through the healds (see Draft).
Fell (of Cloth)—The edge of the fabric (in the loom) which has most recently been woven.
Filling—Am. for weft.
Fixing—Am. for tackling.
Flue—One lap of the folded cloth.
Flushing—Bringing the warp or weft to the surface of the cloth without interweaving.
Fly-reed—Sc. for loose reed.
Gaws—Sc. for goal.
Gears—Sc. for healds.
Goal—A gap caused in a piece by the cloth being drawn forward without the weft interweaving, especially when used to mark the end of a piece.
Grey—Yarn or cloth in an undyed or unbleached state.
Grist—Synonymous with counts (Sc.).
Ground—That portion of a fabric, usually of a simple weave, which serves as a base on which to display a figure.
Hank—A measurement of yarn. In cotton, 840 yards.
Harness—The arrangement of leashes in a jacquard. (Am. for a heald.)
Heald—The arrangement of top and bottom staves, carrying the leashes with eyes for use in stave work.—Sc., heddle; Am., harness.
Lag—A bar of the lattice used in dobby work.
Lathe (South Lancashire)—Synonymous with slay.
Lay—Am. and Sc. for slay.
Leaf—A heald or a plate of the shedding tappet—e.g., three-leaf twill = three-stave twill.
Lingo—The weight below the leashes in the jacquard.
L.S.—Abbreviation of “long stick.”
Mail-eye—The aperture in the harness for the reception of the thread.
Manufacturing—(Vide Chapter I.).
Mash—(Vide Index).—Otherwise smash, or trap.
Mitre Wheels—Bevel wheels which gear with and are exactly similar to each other.
Open-band Yarn—Yarn spun weft-way—that is, twisted over to the right.
P.C.—Pin cop—i.e., weft size of cop.
Pick—The insertion of a thread of weft; the propulsion of the shuttle through the shed; the time occupied in the opening of the shed, the picking, and beating up.—A term used to signify the number of picks in a quarter-inch.
Pirn—A wooden tube on which is wound the weft used for headings, etc.
Ply—A thickness or layer of fabric—thus, two-ply, three-ply, refer to double or triple cloth.
Positive Motion—A motion driven by gearing as distinct from one driven by friction or some non-positive force.
Pure Size—Sizing with vegetable or animal substances, used for light percentages.
Range—A series of cloths similar in style, but varying in width or other dimensions.
Reed—(Vide Chapter III.).—Also the number of ends per quarter-inch.
Run—A stripe of colour in a fabric.
Scobs—Sc. for slattering.
Selvage—The sides of a fabric.
Sett—The fineness of reeds—reed counts. Also signifying the amount of warp on the beams which are sized at one time.
Shaft—A heald.
Shed—The opening made in the warp for the passage of the shuttle; also, a weaving mill.
Shot—Sc. for pick.
Slay—Otherwise lay or lathe (vide Index).
Smash—Synonymous with mash or trap (vide Index).
Split—Dent.
S.S.—Abbreviation of “short stick.”
Stave—Equivalent to shaft.
Strip—A narrow bar of heading.
Stud—A short projecting pin to carry a wheel or wheels.
Tapes—Borders of cramped or coarse warp.
Tappet—(See Index).—Sc. for wiper.
Technical—Specially appertaining to an industrial art, business, or profession.
Technology—The branch of knowledge dealing with the systematic study of the industrial arts.
Terry—Uncut or loop pile.
Trap—Synonymous with mash.
Trevette—A knife used in cutting the pile wires out of the cloth.
Tuning—Tackling.
Turns (per inch)—The extent of the torsion in yarn.
T.W.—Twist-way yarn or thread, which, in being spun, has been twisted over to the left—distinct from weft-way.
Tweel—Sc. for twill.
Twist—Warp yarn.
Up-taking—Sc. for the take-up motion.
Warp—The yarn arranged length-way of the cloth—the full beam of warp yarn.
Water T.—Throstle twist.
Waves—Zigzag twill pattern.
Wax—Cotton wax is a substance coating the outside of cotton fibres, and present to the extent of about 1/2 per cent. It is a brownish horny vegetable wax.
Weft—The yarn arranged across the cloth.
Weft-way—Yarn twisted over to the right in spinning. Weft may be either twist-way or weft-way.
W.W.—Weft-way.
Whip-roll—Am. for back-rest.
Whip-thread—The crossing thread in gauze.
Woof—The weft.
Wraith, Wrathe, or Rathe—The reed comb used for guiding the yarn to the beam.
Wrap (Warper’s)—Vide index.
Wyper or Wiper—Sc. for tappets.
Yarn—The thread of twisted fibres.
