Among the pulses there is none more nourishing, more generally liked, nor more useful to the vegetarian cook than the haricot bean. Whether on account of its refined flavour, its delicate colour, its size, or last, but not least, its cheapness, I do not hesitate to place it first. Like the potato, however, its very simplicity lays it open to careless treatment, and many who would be the first to appreciate its good qualities if it were placed before them well cooked and served, now recoil from the idea of habitually feeding off what they know only under the guise of a stodgy, insipid, or watery mass. A few hints, therefore, respecting the best manner of preparing this vegetable may be useful.

Firstly, the beans should invariably be washed and placed in a basin of cold water the night before they are required for use, and should remain in soak about ten or twelve hours. If left longer than this during hot weather they are apt to turn sour.

They should not be cooked in the same water that they have been soaked in.

Soft water must be used to cook them. If this be not obtainable, Maignen's Ante-Calcaire will be found to render the water soft.

Salt should not be added until they are at least half cooked, as its tendency is to harden them. This applies also to peas, lentils, etc.

They take about two hours to cook, or three if required very soft.

They must not be allowed to boil very fast, for, like potatoes, they are then liable to break before becoming tender.

About two pints of water, one ounce of butter, and one teaspoon of salt to half-pint of soaked beans, may be taken as a fair average.

During soaking they swell to nearly double their original size, and in boiling they double again.

Never throw away the liquor in which they are boiled but reserve it as “stock.”

When they are to be plainly served as a vegetable, it is best to remove the lid of the saucepan a few minutes before dishing up, and so reduce the liquor to the desired strength.

When required for frying they should be strained as soon as tender, and spread over a plate to dry. They may then be fried in butter or oil.

Always make a point of tasting them before sending to table, for if not sufficiently salted they are very insipid.

All spices, herbs, etc., boiled with the beans for flavouring purposes, should be tied in a small piece of muslin, which may at any moment be easily removed.

Haricot bean pulp, which will be found frequently mentioned in the following recipes, is made by boiling the beans until tender and rather dry, and then rubbing them through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon.

Lentils.

Next in usefulness to the haricot bean comes the German lentil. This must not be confounded with the Egyptian lentil, which closely resembles the split pea; for not only is the former double the price of the latter, but I may add double its worth also, at least from a culinary point of view.

In vegetarian cookery the lentil takes the place of the dark meats of the flesh-eaters' dietary, such as beef and mutton, the haricot bean supplying a substitute for the white, such as veal, chicken, etc.

The liquor in which lentils have been boiled forms a rich foundation for dark sauces, also a delicious and nourishing beverage, in flavour resembling beef-tea, can be obtained from them (see Recipe No.12). Besides being darker in colour, the flavour of lentils is much more pronounced than that of haricots.

Throughout the following recipes the word “lentil” means German lentil, without exception.

Split Peas, etc.

Most of the advice given above respecting haricots and lentils applies to the treatment of split peas, dried green peas, and Egyptian lentils.

Thickenings for Soups and Sauce.

Pearl barley is invaluable for thickening soups, sauces, etc.

It should be strained away when the required consistency is obtained, for if left in too long the flavour is apt to be found a little too strong for some tastes.

Sago, tapioca, rice, and semolina are all useful for thickening, and it is generally advisable to strain the sauces in which they are used, before sending to table.

If paste of flour and butter be used for thickening, there will be no necessity to use a strainer, unless the sauce becomes lumpy. This can generally be remedied, however, by prolonged stirring over the fire.

The paste is made by placing equal quantities of flour and butter on a plate, and working them together with a knife until the flour is thoroughly incorporated.

Use about one ounce each of flour and butter to one pint of sauce, or to two pints of soup.

For thickening dark sauces, stews, etc., flour which has been baked in the oven until it has turned a very light brown will be found better than white flour. If allowed to become too brown it will acquire a disagreeable flavour.

Frying in Oil.

A medium-sized iron saucepan and a wire basket to fit it easily should be kept for this purpose. Fill about a third of the saucepan with oil (be quite sure that the quality is good), put in the wire basket, and place the saucepan over the fire or gas, and after a few minutes watch it carefully to see when it begins to boil. This will be notified by the oil becoming quite still, and emitting a thin blue vapour. Directly this is observed, drop the articles to be fried gently into the basket, taking care not to overcrowd them, or their shape will be quite spoiled. When they have become a golden brown, lift out the basket, suspend it for one moment over the saucepan to allow the oil to run back, then carefully turn the fritters on to some soft paper, and serve piled on a hot dish, not forgetting to use a fish paper.

When cold, the oil should be strained through a fine strainer, lined with a piece of muslin. It is then ready for use again with a little more added.

Should the oil become burnt, it must of course be thrown away.

Bread Crumbs.

To procure fine bread crumbs, rub stale bread through a wire sieve. For this the hands should be scrupulously clean.

Should the crumbs be required coarse, rubbing the bread on a grater will answer the purpose.