  July 4, 1916 I was at S. collecting all the equipment of my division. As all the authorities helped me quickly and well, I was ready to move on June 30th. Imagine my bad luck: just on this very day I was destined to make my exit from the stage. It was like this: Near Verdun there was not much to do in the air. Scouting had been almost dropped. One day, when there was a little more to do than usual, I had gone up twice in the morning and was loafing around on the field. I suddenly heard machine-gun “The devil is loose on the front. Six Americans are up. I could plainly see the American flag on the fuselage. They were quite bold; came all the way across the front.” I didn’t imagine things were quite so bad, and decided to go up and give the Americans a welcome. They were probably expecting it; politeness demanded it. I really met them above the Meuse. They were flying back and forth quite gaily, close together. I flew toward them, and greeted the first one with my machine gun. He seemed to be quite a beginner; at any rate, I had no We made another pretty flight this day. The district around B. and west of Verdun was to be photographed by a scout division. Captain V. was to go over with the squadron, and asked me to go with two other Fokkers to protect them. I went with them, and as I kept Now came the extremely sad news of Immelmann’s death. One evening we received word he had fallen. I first thought it was one of the usual rumors, but, to my deep sorrow, it was later confirmed by staff officers. They said his body was being taken to Dresden. I, therefore, immediately asked for leave to fly to D. It was very impressive. Immelmann lay in the courtyard of a hospital, on a wonderful bier. Everywhere Immelmann lost his life through a foolish accident. Everything the papers write about a battle in the air is nonsense. A part of his propeller broke off and, due to the jerk, the wire braces of the fuselage snapped. The fuselage then broke off. Aside from the great personal loss we have suffered, I feel the moral effect of his death on the enemy is not to be underrated. I made good use of my chance to again attack the English at D. I liked it so well, I kept postponing my return to S. One evening I flew a Halberstadt biplane; this was the first appearance of these machines at the front. As it is somewhat similar The next day I had two more opportunities to attack Englishmen. The first time, it was a squadron of six Vickers’ machines. I started as they were over L., and the other Fokkers from D. went with me. As Meanwhile, the Crown Prince had telephoned once, and our staff officer several times, for me to return. I had at first said I would wait for better weather, so they finally told me to take the train back if it was poor weather. So I saw it was no use, and the next morning I flew back to S. Here I found a telegram Even though this was nothing that replaced my work, it was, at least, a balm for my wounded feelings. I immediately went to S. to pack my things and use the remaining two days to fly as much as possible. I flew twice that night, because I had The next day the weather was bad, and I flew over to Wilhelm to talk over several things and bid him farewell. Picture my surprise, when I read in the afternoon’s wireless reports: “Well, well; we have you in leash now.” It is funny that everyone is pleased to see me cooped up for a while. The sorriest part of all is that I am forced to take this leave just at a time when the English offensive is developing unprecedented aerial activity. Vienna, July 6, 1916 Several incidents happened just before I left Berlin. My train was scheduled to leave the Zoo at 8:06. A half hour before my departure I noticed that my “Pour le mÉrite” was missing. I could not think of leaving without it. I rode to get it; it had been left in my civilian clothes, but my valet had already July 7, 1916 In Vienna I was met by a brother aviator at the station. He took me to the Commander-in-Chief of their Aviation Division, who very kindly gave me a comrade as guide, and July 10, 1916 Early in the morning we were on the aviation field at Aspern, which is somewhat like Adlershof. Here I saw some very interesting machines; for the first time I saw an Italian Caproni. Also, I was shown a French machine, in which a crazy Frenchman tried to fly from Nancy to Russia, via Berlin. He almost succeeded. They say he got as far as the east front, and was brought In the afternoon I reported to the Colonel, who advised me to see the flying in the mountains near Trient on my way back from the Balkans. I do not know yet whether or not I will be able to do this; it all depends on time and circumstances. In the late afternoon I went up on the Kahlenberg to see Vienna from there. I took the trip with a man and his wife, whom I had met on the train. They seemed very pleased at having my company, and lost no opportunity to tell me this. To add to my discomfiture, a reporter interviewed July 11, 1916 To avoid the dreary railroad journey from Vienna to Budapest, I am July 12, 1916 Slept real late and then walked to In the afternoon I took a wagon and rode with Lieutenant F. through Ofen to the Margareten Island. We passed the Parliament and went to the city park, where we ate a lot of cake at Kugler’s. From there we walked to the docks. The evening, I spent with some Germans. Budapest makes a very modern impression; some of the women are ultra-modern. July 13, 1916 Slept while passing through Belgrade. Woke up in the middle of Servia, while passing a station where music was playing. Rode along the Morave Valley; it is wide and flanked with hills. There are many July 14, 1916 Slept through Adrianople on my way to Turkey. Passed through the customs. Country: Mountainous; little developed; no trees, but now and then villages, with a few little houses, thatched with straw, and scattered. For little stretches the country is covered with bushes. Most of the country is uncultivated, but here and there you see a corn or potato field. The railroad is a one-track affair, with very few sidings. Service very poor now, due to the war; long waits at the stations. The people are poorly clothed, with gaudy sashes and queer headpieces. Just at present they are celebrating some fast days. The women work like the men, but always have a cloth wrapped around their heads. We met a military Near the ocean, the farming is carried on on a large scale. At the Bay of Kutshuk, I saw camels grazing, for the first time. The ocean itself seemed brown, green, violet—all colors. At the shore people were swimming, and there were two anti-aircraft guns mounted. St. Stefano is an Oriental town in every sense of the word. At the shore there are neat little European houses. Here, there is a wireless station, etc., just as in Johannistal. Then came Constantinople. From the train, you cannot see much; mostly old, dirty houses, that look as At the station, I was met by several German aviators, and taken to the hotel. The evening, I spent with some officers and a number of gentlemen from the German Embassy. July 15, 1916 Early in the morning I rode to the Great Headquarters and reported to Enver Pasha, who personally gave me the Iron Crescent. Enver, who is still young, impressed me as a very agreeable, energetic, man. Then I went through the Bazar, with an interpreter. This is a network of streets, alleys and loopholes, in which everything imaginable is sold. Then In the afternoon I went to the General (the ship on which the German naval officers live). In the evening we were in the Petit Champ, a little garden in which a German naval band played. My valet amuses me. He is very unhappy, because he cannot feel at home, and is being cheated right and left by the people. He had pictured Turkey to be an entirely different sort of a place. He was very indignant because the merchants start at three o’clock, at night, to go through the streets selling their wares. In the morning I went out to the General with Lieutenant H. to see a U-boat. In the afternoon, a Greek funeral passed the hotel. The cover of the coffin is carried ahead and the corpse can be seen in the coffin. Later, I wandered around in Galata and saw the Sultan, who was just coming out of a mosque. First, mounted policemen came; then there was a mounted bodyguard; then adjutant; then the Sultan in a coach with four horses; then the same retinue again, in reverse order. July 17, 1916 This morning, I at last had a chance to see something of their In the afternoon I was a guest on board the General. In the afternoon I went with Captain D. and other gentlemen, through the Bosphorus to Therapia, where the German cemetery is wonderfully situated. Then we inspected a shoe factory at Beikos, and, later, went July 18, 1916 To-day I took a pleasure spin on the Sea of Marmora, with S.’s adjutant, and his motorboat. We passed the Sultan’s palace and went to Skutari, where I made a short stop. Then we went to the Princes’ Islands, where we landed at Princepu. Princepu is to Constantinople what Grunewald or Wannsee is to Berlin. It is a wonderful island, hilly and situated in the middle July 19, 1916 At nine, we left for Panderma. The Sea of Marmora was quite calm; at first there were some waves, but later it was very still. The ship was filled with natives; quite a few women, and some officers. Panderma: a small seaport (many small Woke up south of Akbissal. Country very pretty, cultivated and fertile, with many herds of cattle; caravans of camel, with a mule as leader. The plains became more pretty as we went on. Smyrna is beautifully situated. At the station I met Buddecke and several other men. I got a room in the Hotel Kramer, right at the sea. From my balcony I have a view over the whole Gulf of Smyrna. In the afternoon, I took a walk after reporting to His Excellency Liman-Sanders. Went through the Bazar, which is not so large as in Stamboul. At ten we went to the aviation field at Svedi Kos, south of Smyrna. The aviators live in a school. Close to the field there are the tents of a division. The Turkish soldiers made a good impression. July 22, 1916 In the morning went swimming at Cordelio, with several ladies and gentlemen. Buddecke met us with a yacht. We had a fine sail. The view of the hills from the gulf was beautiful. July 23, 1916 In the morning, again went to Cordelio for a swim, and took some jolly pictures. Slept late. In the afternoon took a sail with several gentlemen to the future landing spot for seaplanes. July 25, 1916 In the morning I strolled about alone in the outlying parts of Smyrna. Here, things look much more “oriental.” Now I have to take the long trip to Constantinople via Panderma, then to the Dardanelles. I lose eight days this way, for which I am exceedingly sorry. In an airplane, I could make it in two and a half hours, but Buddecke will not let me have any. He has a thousand and one reasons for not giving me one, but I believe he has instructions to that effect. On July 28th I went aboard a gunboat bound for Chanak, with a tow. Gallipoli is a village, with a number of outlying barracks. Several houses on the shore were destroyed by gunfire. Arrived in Chanak toward noon, and went to Merten-Pasha to report. In the afternoon I went to the aviation field and flew over Troy—Kum Kale—Sedil Bar, to the old English position. The flight was beautiful, and the islands of Imbros and Tenedos were as if floating on the clear sea. In the Bay of Imbros we could plainly see the English ships. Outside of the usual maze of trenches we could plainly see the old English camps. Close to Thalaka there was an English U-Boat July 30, 1916 Went on a small steamer to Sedil Bar. We got off a little before we reached our destination, to go over the whole position with a naval officer, who awaited us. The difference between the Turkish and English positions was striking. The English, of course, had had more and better material to work with. Now it is nothing but a deserted wreck. Then I looked at the English July 31, 1916 To-day was Bairam (Turkish Easter). Flags everywhere; people all dressed in their best; large crowds on the street; sale of crescent flowers on the streets, and parades. August 1, 1916 After a short stay in the War Department and the Bazar, I left for Constantinople. Enver Pasha travels on the same train. He had me brought to him by his servant at tea August 2, 1916 Toward eleven o’clock, after an enjoyable trip through a well-cultivated section of Rumania, I arrived in Sofia, after passing a Turkish military train. Here I was received by a number of German aviators. In the afternoon, took a trip through Sofia, which makes the same impression as one of the central German capitals. Short visit in the cadet school, then went to the large cathedral. August 3, 1916 The military finish I noticed in the cadet school the day before impressed me favorably. H. and I In the afternoon, I went to the flying school with H. Our guide, Captain P., showed us as special attraction a BlÉriot, which he had. The school is still in the first stages of development. From there we went to the resort called Banje, which is nicely located. In the evening, I was at supper with a military attachÉ, and met Prince Kyrill. He interested me very much, and talked quite intelligently about a number of things. August 4, 1916 Early in the morning, I reported to the Bulgarian Secretary of War, who conversed with me for a long August 5, 1916 After an audience with the Bulgarian Chief of Staff, I went to Uskub via Kustendil in an auto. Fischer, my valet, who was along, had to get out en route to make all our train arrangements. In Kustendil, I stopped over, and at the Casino I was with the Bulgarian Chief of Staff. Then there was an interesting trip to Uskub, where I arrived at nine o’clock. In the afternoon I was with General Mackensen, and sat next to him at the table. Mackensen talked with me for quite a while. He is serious-looking, but not nearly as stern as his pictures lead one to believe. Later, I went by train to Hudova, and reached aviation headquarters, where I was given a fine welcome in the barracks. The aviators all live in wooden shacks, in a dreary neighborhood. This is not an enviable place to be, especially since they have had nothing to do for months. August 7, 1916 In the morning I paid a visit to another division of flyers, and with Captain E. I flew up and down the August 8, 1916 Went back to Sofia in the auto. Had several punctures, which were really funny, because my Bulgarian chauffeur and I could converse by sign language only. On the road, not far from Kumanova, there was a Macedonian fair, which was very interesting. The peasants, in white clothes, danced an odd but pretty dance, to music played on bagpipes and other instruments. August 9, 1916 This morning, shortly before I left, I received a Bulgarian medal for courage. This was presented to August 10, 1916 In the afternoon, short auto ride; in the evening, reported to General Conrad. August 11, 1916 Presented myself at Archduke Frederick’s and met General Cramon. At eleven o’clock, went on toward Kovel. August 12, 1916 Arrived in Kovel about eight. Reported to General Linsingen. Rode to Brest, which is gutted by fire. August 16, 1916 Reported to General Ludendorff. Before eating was presented to Field Marshal Hindenburg. At table, sat between Hindenburg and Ludendorff. In the afternoon, flew to Warsaw. August 17, 1916 Rode to Wilna. August 18, 1916 Rode to Kovno and then to Berlin. |
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