Figure 1.
PLAIN WEAVE.
A. Weft threads.
B. Warp threads.

Figure 1 shows the simplest manner of interlacing warp and weft threads. This style of weave is called plain, calico, or "one-over and one-under" weave.

Figure 2.
THREE-END TWILL WEAVE.

This figure illustrates the interlacing of warp (shaded) and weft (white) threads, so as to produce a regular "three-end twill" weave. It also shows the direction of twill. In this figure the warp threads are shown interlaced with the weft threads in three distinct positions. There is a distinct predominance of warp threads thrown to the surface by this style of interlacing, and a fabric woven on this system would be "warp-faced." This weave is called a two-warp and one-weft regular twill, also Regatta and Galatea weave.

Figure 3.
FOUR-END TWILL WEAVE.

This figure illustrates a four-end, three-warp and one-weft, regular twill, also known as a Florentine twill, or a "three-up and one-down twill." The twill produced by this style of interlacing is well marked. The warp (shaded) predominates, and for this reason a cloth woven on this system of interlacing would be termed "warp-faced," or warp twill.

Figure 4.
FOUR-END WEFT TWILL WEAVE.

This figure, in which the weft threads predominate on the surface, illustrates a four-end, one-warp and three-weft, regular weft twill, in which three-quarters of the weft threads are thrown to the surface and the remaining quarter is warp. It is the reverse of Figure 3.

Figure 5.
TWO-AND-TWO TWILL WEAVE.

This figure illustrates a four-end, two-warp and two-weft, regular twill. Neither warp nor weft predominates on the surface. This style of twill is known as Harvard twill.

Figure 6.
IRREGULAR TWILL WEAVE.

This figure illustrates a broken or irregular twill, also known as a broken Harvard or Stockinette weave.

Figure 7.
FIVE-END WARP SATEEN WEAVE.

This figure illustrates the method of interlacing warp (shaded) and weft threads so as to produce a five-end warp sateen, or satin twill. This weave, in which the warp predominates on the surface, is reversed in Figure 8.

Figure 8.
FIVE-END WEFT SATEEN WEAVE.

This figure illustrates a five-end weft sateen. Sateen weaves are virtually a form of broken or rearranged twill. The weft sateen weave, represented by this figure, shows weft predominating on the face: it is practically the reverse of the weave shown by Figure 7.

Figure 9.
SIMPLE PLAIN GAUZE WEAVE.

In this figure A are threads known as crossing threads and are typical of gauze weave; they are binding threads holding B (weft threads) and C (warp threads) firmly together. It will be noticed that B and C do not interlace to form a plain weave. If crossing threads A were removed, no fabric would remain. These crossing threads in this figure are shown as always passing over the weft threads B and always under the warp threads C. This style of weave, when combined with a few "plain-weave" picks, produces Leno.

Figure 10.
WEFT-PILE WEAVE.

In this figure A is a weft-pile pick or flushing thread; B is a backing or ground cloth pick; the dots show cross section of warp threads. It will be seen that the ground picks B, together with the warp threads (shown cut through), form the foundation fabric. Pile thread A is shown bound into the fabric by the second, eighth, and fourteenth warp thread. Pile threads are cut after leaving the loom at a point indicated by the arrows; the pile produced is then sheared level and suitably finished.