The South of France

PARIS to MODANE by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains 322

Grenoble to Sassenage 327

Grenoble to BrianÇon by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328

Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde, at the base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329

BrianÇon to Mt. Pelvoux by La BessÉe and the Val Louise 333, 345

BrianÇon to Oulx by Mt. GenÈvre and Cesanne 333

Grenoble to Corps by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333

Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains 336

MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27) 338

St. Auban to Digne 339

Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304) 339

Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339

VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE station, 51 miles N.E. by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the important passes between France and Italy 340

Gap to Barcelonnette 341

Barcelonnette to Cuneo (map, p. 27) 341

Gap to Grenoble by Corps (map, p. 304) 342

Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo (map, p. 304) 344

Paris to Lyons by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346

Paris to Lyons by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348

Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349

Paris to Marseilles by Clermont-Ferrand and NÎmes (see map on fly-leaf) 351

Moulins to the Baths of Bourbon-l’Archambault by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356

Moulins to the Baths of Bourbon-Lancy by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357

St. Germain-des-FossÉs to Vichy 359

Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Laqueuille 376

Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and Bourboule 377

Mont-Dore to Issoire by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385

A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.

MAPS AND PLANS
(pages 281–end)

PAGE

Bologna, Plan of 316

Mont Cenis railway, Plan of 291

This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.

Mont-Dore and Bourboule, Map of environs 378

The French and Italian Waldensian valleys, with the mountain-passes between them 304

Turin, Plan of 293

Vichy, Plan of 359

A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the text with mouse-hover popups.

Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps (separate file)
Paris to Marseilles (separate file)

The Riviera: Itineraries
The Riviera: Maps
The Riviera: Text

Italy and the Alps and General Index (separate file)

ITINERARY
(pages 107–280)

THE RIVIERA.

The Riviera. Hotels, productions, climate 107

Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111

MARSEILLES to MENTON. The French Riviera 122

Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp. 124 and 129).

Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to HyÈres from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128).

Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to CollobriÈres by La Crau and Pierrefeu (p. 130).

Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’HyÈres or d’Or (pp. 124, 131).

The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131

Toulon to HyÈres 132

HyÈres. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate 133

HyÈres to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144).

La Pauline. Diligence and train to HyÈres 142

Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142

Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure mountains 144

Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other diligences 145

Cannes to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to EstÉrel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and Theoule (p. 155), to PÉgomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152).

Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, GrÉoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166).

Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180

Nice to Puget-Theniers and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the TinÉe ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). 182

Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182

Savona to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183

Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a pleasant walk 185

Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road 189

Monaco to La Turbie and the TÊte de Chien 191

MENTON to GENOA—the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200

Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna 201

San Remo to Monte Bignone 205

GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante 219

Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very easy and interesting excursion 222

Pisa to Florence by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227

Pisa to Florence by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227

Lucca to the Baths of Lucca 230

Florence to Vallombrosa 277

Genoa to Turin by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey 279

END OF THE RIVIERA.

MAPS AND PLANS
(pages 107–280)

PAGE

Cannes, Environs of 155

Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.

Cannes, Plan of 149

Corniche Road 185

Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway.

This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and Menton.

EstÉrel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes 146

Florence, Plan of 234

The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza Michelangiolo.

Galleria degli Uffizi 237

The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.

Genoa, Plan of 214

HyÈres, Environs of 129

As the excursions from HyÈres and Toulon are nearly the same, the environs of both towns are given on the same map.

Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn 199

Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the “RhÔne and Savoy,” and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”

Leghorn, Plan of 226

Marseilles, Plan of 113

Marseilles to Cannes 123

This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of HyÈres,” of which the largest is Porquerolles.

Nice, Plan of 171

Pisa, Plan of 224

The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.

Savona to Rapallo 211

Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.

The Durance to the Var and San Remo 163

This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.

The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200

Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107

Toulon, Environs of 129

This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small steamers sailing from the port.

A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the text with mouse-hover popups.

Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps (separate file)

Paris to Marseilles: Itineraries
Paris to Marseilles: Maps
Paris to Marseilles: Text

The Riviera (separate file)
Italy and the Alps and General Index (separate file)

ITINERARY
(pages 1–106)

PAGE

PARIS to MARSEILLES 1

The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify from this great central railway are

La Roche to Les Laumes by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast church. 14

From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where Thomas À Becket resided.

Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit the source of the Seine.

From Dijon (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.

Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks.

Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several interviews with J. C.

Lyons (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E. side of the RhÔne leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to NÎmes (p. 101). See map, p. 27.

Valence to Grenoble, 62 miles N.E. 44

Valence to ArdÈche 45

Crest to Montelimart 46

Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and Bourdeaux 46

Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain.

Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river DrÔme (map, p. 27) 47

Montelimart to Grignan, where Madame SÉvignÉ died 49

La CroisiÈre to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble (map, p. 27).

Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east 54

Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).

Avignon to NÎmes by the famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard 64

Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse, where Petrarch lived for some time 64

Avignon to Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27) 66

Avignon to Miramas by Cavaillon 66

Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux 67

Arles to Fontvieille by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman remains 71

Arles to Port St. Louis at the mouth of the RhÔne 72

Arles to Port-Bouc, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat 76 and 72

Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St. Gilles and Lunel 72

Lunel to Montpellier 73

Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour, which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance 77

Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns 78

LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the RhÔne (map, p. 27) 81

Peyraud by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St. Etienne [pg. 354] 81

La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the department of ArdÈche (map, p. 46) 83

The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83

Lachamp-RaphaÉl to Le BÉage (map, p. 85) 84

Le BÉage to Le Puy by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85

Le Puy to Langogne by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88

Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89

Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p. 46) 89

Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90

Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues. Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91

Le Pouzin to Privas (map, p. 27) 92

Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93

This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.

Prades to Langogne by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94

Prades to Montpezat. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited 95

Montpezat to Le Puy 96

Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural bridge called the Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) 96

Pont d’Avignon, station on W. bank of the RhÔne, for Avignon 99

Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard 99

NÎmes To Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105

MAPS AND PLANS
(pages 1–106)

PAGE

ArdÈche, general map of, including the northern part of the department of DrÔme and the southern of the Haute-Loire 46

This map contains a large part of the valleys of the RhÔne and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.

Arles, a town of great interest 68

Avignon, Plan of 59

Dijon, Plan of 20

Lyons, General plan of 30

Lyons, Partial plan of 33

NÎmes, interesting Roman ruins 101

Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1

RhÔne and Savoy 107

This map gives the entire course of the RhÔne in France, with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.

Map appears on page 27 in this section.

The high volcanic peaks in the department of ArdÈche; among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire 84

The Mouths of the RhÔne 66

Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66).

The plains between the ArdÈche, RhÔne and Durance, in which are situated Aubenas, Alais, MontÉlimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest 56

Troyes, Plan of 12

PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &c.
see caption

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“Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.”

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Preface
Itineraries
List of Maps
Paris to Marseilles (separate file)
The Riviera (separate file)
Italy and the Alps and General Index (separate file)