Abukawa, 173; village forge, 173.

Abuta, Aino village, 306.

Adzuma bridge, 22.

Agano river, 102.

Aganokawa river, 120.

A Hiogo Buddha, 272.

Aidzu mountains, 103; plain, 106.

Aino farmhouse, 204; storehouses, 223, 247; lodges, 224; chief, 233 et seq.; house, 234; millet-mill and pestle, 238; patriarch, 258; gods, 265; urns, 265, 266; house, plan of, 267.

Ainos, the hairy, 225; superb-looking, 232; huts, life in, 234, 235; at home, 235; model villages, 237; hospitality, 237, 278; politeness, 239, 250; witch-like woman, 239; reverence for age, 240; salutation, 240, 279; truthfulness, 240; chief’s wife, 242, 243; children, 244, 260; tenderness to a sick child, 245; occupations, 247, 248; women, 248, 258, 259; Pipichari, 249, 287; sick woman, 250, 251; fear of Japanese Government, 251; shrine, 252; handsome chief, 253; qualities, 254; no history, 255; physique, 255; of Yezo, 256; European resemblances, 257; savage look, 257; height, 257; tattooing, 259, 260; children, obedience of, 261; clothing, 262; jewellery, 263; houses, 263–265; household gods, 265; Japanese curios, 265, 266; mats, 268; food, 268; bows and arrows, 269; arrow-traps, 269, 270; weaving, 271; no religion, 273; libations, 274; recitation, 275; solitary act of sacrifice, 275; bear-worship, 275; Festival of the Bear, 275, 277; ideas of a future state, 277; social customs, 277, 278; marriage and divorce, 278; amusements, 279; musical instruments, 279; manners, 279; health, 279, 280; intoxication, 280; uncleanly habits, 280; office of chief, 281; eldest son, 281; dread of snakes, 282; fear of death, 282; appearance of old men, 283; domestic life, 284.

Ainos, coast, 304, 305; LebungÉ, 313.

Akayu, 132; horse fair, 132; sulphur springs, 134; bathing sheds, 134; yadoya, 134.

Akita farm-house, 204.

A kuruma, 35.

A lady’s mirror, 201.

A Lake Biwa tea-house, 20.

Amado, or wooden shutters, 71.

Amainu, or heavenly dogs, 27.

Andon, the, or native lamp, 73.

Aomori Bay, 207; town, 207; lacquer, 207.

Arai river, 122.

Arakai river, 96; mode of crossing, 96.

Araya, 156.Archery galleries at Asakusa, 29.

Architecture, temple, uniformity of, 21.

Arrow-traps, 269, 270.

Asakusa, temple of Kwan-non at, 21; sights of, 27; its novelties, 30.

Asiatic Arcadia, an, 133.

Attendant at tea-house, 64.

Baggage coolies in distress, 126.

Bandaisan, the double-peaked, 103.

BangÉ, 100; congress of schoolmasters, 100; stampede, 101.

Barbarism and ignorance, 107.

Barber, female, 200.

Barbers’ shops, 77.

Bargaining, 77.

Bear, Festival of the, 275, 277.

Beggary, absence of, 127.

Benri, chief of the Ainos, 233, 240, 241, 281, 283.

Bettos, or running-grooms, 8.

Binzuru, the medicine god, 26, 27.

Biratori, 234; situation of, 237.

Blind men in Japan, 175, 176.

Boats, 178.

Bone, a, extracted, 104.

Booths, various, 29, 30.

Boys and girls, a procession of, 68.

British doggedness, 180.

Buddhist priests, 112.

Burial, a splendid, 54, 55.

Caligraphy, 70.

Canoes, 317.

Chaya and yadoya, distinction between, 37.

Chayas, or tea-houses, 36, 37.

Cheating a policeman, 152, 153.

Children, Japanese, docility of, 75.

Children’s parties, 68; names, 68, 69; games, amusing, 69; dignity and self-possession, 69; etiquette, 69.

Chinamen in Yokohama, 15.

Chlorodyne, cures effected by, 93, 94, 250, 251.

ChÔkaizan, snow mountain, 139, 148.

Christian converts, 202.

Cleanliness, want of, 94, 95.

Climate of Niigata, 119.

Clogs, 12.

“Cockle’s Pills,” 287.

Coiffure, 200.

Coolies, baggage, 126, 127.

Corrals, Yezo, 296.

Country, a pretty, 180.

Cow, riding a, 124.

Cows, cotton cloths on, for protection, 128.

Cremation, 325; building for the purpose, 327; mode of burning, 327.

Daikoku, the god of wealth, 104, 154.

DaimiyÔ, or feudal princes, 13 et seq.

Dainichido, gardens of, 54.

Daiya river, the, 49, 51.

Dinner, Japanese etiquette at, 142.

Dirt and disease, 93–95.

Distinction between costume of moral and immoral women, 202.

Ditty, a dismal, 67.

Doctors, Japanese, prejudice against surgical operations, 141, 142.

Dogs, Japanese, 86; yellow, 237.

Doma, the, 37.

Dr. Palm and his tandem, 121.

Dress, female, 83, 84.

Earthquake, shocks of, 59; effect on priests, 59.

Eden, a garden of, 133.

ÉlÉgante, a Japanese, 31.

England unknown, 105.

Entrance to shrine of Seventh ShÔgun, Shiba, TÔkiyÔ, 323.

Equipments, travelling, list of, 32, 33.

Etiquette, Japanese, 69.

Excess of males over females, 98.

Excursion, solitary, a, 203.

Expedition, an, entertaining account of, 328, note.

Fair, perpetual, 23.

Farm-houses, 203, 204.

Female hand, tattooed, 260.

Ferry, a Japanese, 96.

Festival, the Tanabata, at Kuroishi, 198, 199; of the Bear, 275.

Fleas, consensus of opinion as to, 18.

Flowers, art of arranging, 70.

Flowers of Yezo, 227.“Flowing Invocation,” the, 130, 131.

“Food Question,” the, 19.

Forgeries of European eatables and drinkables, 138.

“Front-horse,” a, 218, 228.

Funeral, a ShÔgun’s, 54, 55; Buddhist, at Rokugo, 148; the coffin or box, 150; procession, 151.

Fujihari, 85; dirt and squalor at, 86; primitive Japanese dog in, 86; fleas, 86.

Fujisan, first view of, 2; from a village on the TÔkaidÔ, 326.

Fusuma, or sliding paper panels, 38, 45.

Fyson, Mrs., and Ruth, 118, 119.

Games, children’s, 69, 195.

Gardens, Japanese, 118.

Geishas, or dancing-girls, 46.

Ginsainoma, Yezo, 216.

God-shelf, the, 72.

Gods, Aino household, 265.

Guide-books, Japanese, 71.

Hachiishi, its doll street, 49; specialties of its shops, 49.

Hai, “yes,” 181.

Hair-dressing, 75, 76, 201.

HakodatÉ, external aspect, 212; peculiar roofs, 213; junks, 320, 321.

HakodatÉ harbour, 208.

Hepburn, Dr., 16, 17.

Hibachi, or brazier, 77.

Hinokiyama village, 176.

Hirakawa river, 191; destruction of bridge, 192.

Hirosaki, 202.

Home-life in Japan, 71.

Home occupations, 185.

Honoki, pass of, 125.

Hornets, 140.

Horobets village, 223, 296.

Horse, a wicked, 147.

Horse-ants, 140.

Horse-breaking, Japanese, 295, 307.

Horse-fights, 307.

Horses, treatment of, 164; in Yezo, 218; drove of, 226, 227.

Hotel expenses, 184.

Hot springs, 89, 290.

House, a pleasant, 51.

Houses, scenes in the, 74; hermetically sealed, 95; numbers in, 124.

Hozawa village, 106.

Ichikawa pass, 97; glorious view, 97; village, 97; waterfall, 97.

Ichinono hamlet, 127.

Idyll, a Japanese, 151.

Ikari, 90; the people at, 91.

Ikarigaseki, 191; detention at, 193–196; occupation, 193; kite-flying, 195; games, 195.

Imaichi, 48.

Inari, the god of rice-farmers, 93.

Infant prodigy, an, 166.

Iniwashiro lake, 99.

Innai, 143; Upper and Lower, malady at, 144; description of, 144, 145.

Insect pests at Niigata, 114.

Invocation, the flowing, 129–131.

Irimichi, 51; a “squeeze” at, 65; village of, 66; school at, 66, 67.

Irori, the 38.

Isshinden, temple gateway at, 311.

Itama, the, 37.

Ito, first impressions of, 17, 18, taking a “squeeze,” 65; personal vanity, 78; ashamed, 86, 125; cleverness and intelligence, 87; a zealous student, 87; intensely Japanese, 87; a ShintÔist, 88; particularly described, 161; excellent memory, 161; keeps a diary, 161; characteristics, 162; prophecy, 162; patriotism, 162; an apt pupil, 163; fairly honest, 164; surliness, 175; delinquency, 214; selfishness, 236; smitten, 287; cruelty, 307; parting, 321.

Itosawa, 93.

Itoyasan precipices, 103.

Iwakisan plain, 197; snow mountain, 197.

IyÉmitsu, temple of, at NikkÔ, 58.

IyÉyasu’s tomb at NikkÔ, 58.

Japan, first view of, 1; Chinamen in, 15; tiling in, 60; home-life in, 71; excess of males over females in the empire of, 98; freedom from insult and incivility in, 101; barbarism and ignorance in, 107; winter evenings in, 123; divorce in, 124; absence of mendicancy in, 127; convict labour in, 137; drawbacks of travelling in, 140; firmness in travelling necessary in, 155; police force in, and cost of, 160; blind men in, 175, 176; effect of sunshine in, 183; evening occupations in, 185; rain in, 187; cremation in, 325–327.

Japanese restaurant, portable, 4; paper-money, 7; man-cart, 9; railroad and railway station, 10; railway cars, 11; in European dress, 11; clogs, 12; temple architecture, uniformity of, 21; temples, 21, 55, 58, 99, 151, 302, 303; lanterns, stone, 28; booths, 29, 30; temple grounds and archery galleries, 29; ÉlÉgantÉ, 31; passport, 33, 34; tattooing, 34; tea, 39; threshing, varieties in, 44; inquisitiveness, 45; dancing-girls, 46; idyll, 51; masonry, 58; wood-carving, 60; watering-place, 65; school, a village, 66—punishments at, 67; children’s parties, 68; names, female, 68, 69; etiquette, 69; needle-work and garments, 69; circulating libraries, 69, 70; games, children’s, 69, 195; children’s names, 69; caligraphy, 70; guide-books, 71; recreations, 71; lamp, 73; shops, articles sold in, 73, 74; parental love, 75; hair-dressing, 75, 76, 201; children, docility of, 75; barbers’ shops, 77; bargaining, 77; money, current, 79; female dress, 83, 84; dog, primitive, 86; rivers, change of names of, 90; ferry, 96; policemen, 100—vigilance of, 197, 198; mountain scenery, 103; gardens, 118; doctors, 121; dirt and barbarism, 123; houses, tables outside of, 124—numbers in, 124; baggage coolies, 126, 127; cows, 128; criticism on a foreign usage, 128; pack-horse, 132; doctors and rheumatism, 135, 136—their prejudice against surgical operations, 141, 142; gentleman, agreeable, 137; convicts, 137; love of foreign intoxicants, 138; doctor, 141;—his treatment and fee, 141; etiquette at dinner, 142; men and women, costume of, 143; crowd, curiosity of, 146; treatment of the dead, 149; silk factory, 159; horses, treatment of, 164, 218; belief as to their descent, 165; visitors, 165; infant prodigy, 166; marriage, 166, 167; trousseau, 167; furniture, 167; marriage ceremony, 167, 169; holiday scene, 170; festivals, 171, 198, 199, 275; gods and demons, 172; village forge, 173; travelling, fatigues of, of, 175—ludicrous incidents of, 182; boats, 178; kindness, 181; conversation, effect of, 185; home occupations, 185; devotions, 186; children, 193, 194; kite flying and games, 195; toilet, a lady’s, 200; coiffure, 200; hair-dressing, 200, 201; female barber, 200; lady’s mirror, 201; farm-houses, 203, 204; bath-houses, politeness in, 205, 218; imitations of foreign manufactured British goods, 218; horse-breaking, 295, 307; road-post, 301; Paradise, 309; canoes, 317; junks, 320, 321.

Jin-ri-ki-shas, 4, 5 (see Kuruma).

Jishindo, or “earthquake door,” 304.

Junks, 320.

“John Chinaman,” 15, 16.

Journey, an experimental, on horseback, 62.

Juvenile belle and her costume, a, 68.

KaimiyÔ, or posthumous name, 130, 149.

Kaitakushi saddle-horse, 218.

Kajikawa river, 120.

Kakemonos, or wall-pictures, 46, 52.

Kak’kÉ, a Japanese disease, 144, 145.Kamidana, the, or god-shelf, 72.

Kaminoyama, 134; hot springs, 135; the belle of, 135; yadoya, 136; kura, or godown, 136.

Kanaya, 50; his house, 51, 52; floral decorations, 52; table equipments, 53.

Kanayama, 140.

KasayanagÊ, farming village, 120.

Kashitsukeya, disreputable houses, 46.

KasukabÉ, 39; the yadoya, 39; lack of privacy, 40; a night alarm, 41.

Katakado hamlet, 102.

Kawaguchi village, 122, 181.

Kayashima, 93; discomfort, 93; a boy cured, 94; a diseased crowd, 94; habits and food of the natives, 94; houses hermetically sealed, 95.

Kenrei, or provincial governor, 115.

Kimono, the, or gown for both sexes, 43 et seq.

Kinugawa river, 84, 89; beauty of scenery on its banks, 89.

Kiri Furi, the falls of, 54.

Kiriishi hamlet, 177.

Kisagoi, a poor place, 82.

Kisaki, 120.

Kite competition, 195.

KÔchÔ, or chief man of the village, 143.

Kohiaku, mountain farm of, 81.

Komatsu, 131; spacious room and luxurious appointments, 131; frogs, 132; runaway pack-horse, 132.

Komoni-taki volcano, 216.

Kotsunagi, 177.

Kubota, 155; brisk trade, 156; suburban residences, 156; hospital, 157–158; public buildings, 158; Normal School, 158; silk factory, 159; police escort, 159; afternoon visitors, 165; infant prodigy, 166; Japanese wedding, 167–169.

Kura, or fire-proof storehouse, 53.

Kuroishi, 198; festival at, 198, 199.

Kurokawa, 121; matsuri at, 122.

Kurosawa, poverty and dulness, 123; dirt and barbarism, 125.

Kuruma, the, or jin-ri-ki-sha, 4, 5, 35 et seq.

Kuruma pass, 103.

Kuruma-runners, costume of, 34.

KurumatogÉ, 92; inn on the hill, 103; bone extracted, 104; hostess, 104; the road from, infamous, 106; pass, 106.

Kusamoto, Mr., 325, 326.

Kwan-non, temple of, at Asakusa, 21; perpetual fair, 23; the Ni-Ô, 24; votive offerings, 25; the high altar, 25; prayers and pellets, 26; Binzuru, the medicine god, 26, 27; Amainu, or heavenly dogs, 27; stone lanterns, 28; revolving shrine, 28; temple grounds and archery galleries, 29; booths, 29, 30.

Lagoon, curious, 172.

Lake of Blood, the, 131.

Lamp, Japanese, 73.

Land Transport Company, or Riku-un-kaisha, 79.

Lanterns, stone, 28.

LebungÉ, 310; its isolation, 312; Ainos; 312, 313.

LebungÉtogÉ passes, 308.

Legation, the British, at Yedo, 13.

Libraries, circulating, 69, 70.

Ludicrous incident, a, 152.

Mago, the, or leader of a pack-horse, 62, 84.

Maladies, repulsive, prevalence of, 76.

Man-carts, two-wheeled, 8, 9.

Mari, farming-village, 120.

Maro, or loin-cloth, 46.

Marriage, a Japanese, 166, 167; trousseau and furniture, 167; ceremony, 167, 169.

Masonry, Japanese, 58.

Matsuhara village, mistake at, 129.

Matsuka river, 133.

Matsuri at Minato, 171; classic dance, 171; cars, 171.

Medicine god, the, at Asakusa, 26, 27.

Mihashi, or Sacred Bridge, 50.

Mikoshi, or sacred car, 24.

Millet-mill and pestle, 238.

Minato, the junk port of Kubota, 170; matsuri at, 170, 171; sobriety and order, 171.

Mirror, a lady’s, 201.“Missing link,” the, 314.

MiyojintakÉ, snow-fields and ravines, 103.

Mogami river, 139.

Mombets, 286; scenes at, 286.

Money, 7; current, 79.

Mono, farming village, 120.

Moore, Captain, 322.

Moral lesson, a, 36.

Mori village, 317, 318, 220.

Morioka village, 173.

Mororan, 221; bay, 222.

Mororan, Old, 297, 298.

Mountain scenery, 103.

Mud-flat or swamp of Yedo, 36.

My kuruma-runner, 305.

Myself in a straw rain-cloak, 176.

Nakajo, Japanese doctors at, 121.

Nakano, Lower, 205; bath-houses, 205.

Nakano, Upper, 204, 205.

Names, female, 68, 69.

Namioka, 207.

Nanai, Yezo, 218.

Nantaizan mountains, 49.

Needle-work, Japanese, 69.

Night-alarm, a, 41.

Niigata, landward side disappointing, 111; Church Mission House, 111, 112; itinerary of route from NikkÔ to, 113; a Treaty Port, 114; insect pests, 114; without foreign trade, 114; its river, 114, 115; population, 115; hospital and schools, 115; gardens, 116; beautiful tea-houses, 116; cleanliness, 116; water-ways, 116; houses, 117, 118; climate, 119; to Aomori, itinerary of route from, 210, 211.

NikkÔsan mountains, the, 80.

NikkÔ, “sunny splendour,” 54; its beauties, 54; the Red Bridge, 55; the Yomei Gate, 56; the mythical Kirin, 56; the haiden or chapel, 57; the ShÔgun’s room, 57; the Abbot’s room, 57; the great staircase, 57; IyÉyasu’s tomb, 58; temples of IyÉmetsu, 58; gigantic Ni-Ô, 58; Buddha, 59; the TennÔ, 59; wood-carving, 60, 61; shops, 73, 74; houses, 75; to Niigata, itinerary of route from, 113.

Ni-Ô, the, at Asakusa, 24.

Nocturnal disturbance, a, 179.

Nojiri village, 103, 104.

Nopkobets river, 306.

Nosoki, Dr., 141; lotion and febrifuge, 141; old-fashioned practitioner, 142; at dinner, 142.

Nosoki village, 143.

Nozawa town, 103.

Numa hamlet, 123; crowded dwellings, 124.

Obanasawa, 139.

OdatÉ, 181; yadoyas, nocturnal disturbances at, 181, 182.

Okawa stream, 90.

Okimi, 124.

Omagori, manufacture of earthenware jars for interment, 149, 150.

Omono river, 143, 148, 155, 156.

Ori pass, 124.

OshamambÉ, 315.

Osharu river, 301.

Ouchi hamlet, 96.

OyakÊ lake, 97.

Pack-cows, 124, 128.

Pack-horse, the Japanese, 62, 63; a vicious, 102.

Pack-saddle, description of, 62, 63.

Packet-boat, “running the rapids” of Tsugawa, 109, 110.

Palm, Dr., his tandem, 121.

Paper-money, 7.

Parental love, 75.

Parkes, Sir Harry and Lady, 8.

Parting, a regretful, 50.

Passport, travelling, 33; regulations of, 33, 34.

Peasant costume, 43.

Pellets and prayers, 26.

Picture and guidebooks, Japanese, 71.

Pipicharo, the Aino, 249, 250, 252, 287; a “total abstainer,” 249.

Poison and arrow-traps, 269.

Priests, Buddhist, fees to, 151.

Prospect, a painful, 19.

Queries, curious, 163.

“Quiver of poverty,” the, 92.

Rain-cloak, straw, 176.

Reception, a formal, 157.

Reiheishi-kaido, an “In memoriam” avenue, 48.

Restaurant, portable, 4.

Rice, 36.

Rivers, Japanese, change of names of, 90.

Road-side tea-house, 38.

Rokkukado, the, 288.

Rokugo, 148; Buddhist funeral at, 148; temple at, 151.

Saikaiyama, 106.

Sakamoki river, 137; handsome bridge at, 137.

Sakatsu pass, 143.

SakÉ, the national drink, 71, 168, 169; effects of, 71, 183; libations of, 274.

SakuratogÉ river, 128.

Salisburia adiantifolia, 309, 313.

Samisen, the national female instrument, 70.

Sampans, or native boats, 3; mode of sculling, 4.

Sanno pass, 96.

Sarufuto, 231.

Sarufutogawa river, 237, 246.

Satow, Mr. Ernest, Japanese Secretary of Legation, 14; his reputation, 199.

Satsu, or paper money, 7.

Savage life at Biratori, 234–236.

School, a village, 66; lessons and punishments, 67.

Science, native, dissection unknown to, 142.

Scramble, a Yezo, 228.

Seaweed, symbolism of, 165.

Seed shop, a, 78.

Servant, engaging a, 16–18.

Shinagawa or Shinbashi village, 12.

Shinano river, 114, 115, 120.

Shingoji, 153; rude intrusion, 153.

ShinjÔ, 139; trade, 139; discomforts, 140.

Shinkawa river, 120.

Shione pass, 143.

Shirakasawa, mountain village, 128; graceful act at, 129.

ShiraÔi village, 226, 289; volcanic phenomena, 290; hot spring, 291; lianas, 292; beautiful scenery, 292, 293; bear-trap, 293; houses, 294.

Shirawasa, 183; eclipse at, 186.

Shiribetsan mountain, 301.

Shoes, straw, a nuisance, 88.

ShÔji, or sliding screens, 40.

Shopping, 77.

Shops, Japanese, articles sold in, 73, 74.

Shrine, revolving, 28.

Shrines, beauty of, 60.

Sight, a strange, 81.

Silk factory, 159.

Sir Harry’s messenger, 42.

Skin-diseases, 76.

Solitary ride, a, 216–219.

Springs, hot, 89.

“Squeeze,” a, 19, 65.

Stone lanterns, 28.

Storm, effects of a, 188.

Straw rain-cloak, 176, 177.

Straw shoes for horses, 88.

Street, a clean, 49.

Street and canal, 117.

Sulphur spring at Yumoto, 65.

Sumida river, 22.

Summer and winter costume, 82.

Taiheisan mountain, 156.

Tajima, 96.

Takadayama mountain, 88.

Takahara, 88, 89; hot springs, 89.

Takata, 99; general aspect, 100; policemen at, 100.

Tamagawa hamlet, 124.

Tarumai volcano, 227, 228.

Tatami, or house mats, 40.

Tattooing, 34, 259, 260.

Tea, Japanese, 39.

Teishi, or landlord, 39.

Temple architecture, uniformity of, 21.

Tendo town, 138.

Threshing, varieties in, 44.

Tochigi, 45; the yadoya and shÔji, 45.

Tochiida, 139.

TogÉnoshita, 318.

Toilet, a lady’s, 200; hair-dressing, 200, 201; paint and cosmetics, 201, 202; mirror, 201.TÔkiyÔ, 10; first impressions, 12; the British Legation, 13; Kwan-non temple of Asakusa, 21; a perpetual fair, 23; archery galleries, 29; western innovations, 30; tranquillity of, 324.

Tokonoma, or floors of polished wood, 52.

Tomakomai, 227.

TonÉ, river, 43.

Torii, a, 149.

ToyÔka village, 174.

Transport, prices, 79; agent, 97.

Travelling equipments, 32, 33; passports, 33, 34.

Travelling, slow, 143.

Tsugawa river, 106; yadoya, 107; town, 108; packet-boat, 109; “running the rapids,” 109; fantastic scenery, 110; river-course, 110; river-life, 110.

Tsuguriko, 180.

Tsuiji, farming village, 120, 121.

Tsukuno, 134.

Tufa cones, 290.

“Typhoon,” a, 322.

“Typhoon rain,” a, 297.

Udonosan snow-fields, 139.

Universal greyness, 207; language, the, 296.

Unpleasant detention, an, 187.

Usu, 302; temple, 302, 303; bay, 304; Aino lodges at, 304.

Usu-taki volcano, 300.

Utsu pass, view from, 129.

Vegetation, tropical, 85.

Village life, 47.

Vineyards on the Tsugawa, 111.

Volcano Bay, 220.

Wakamatsu, 99.

Watering-place, a native, 65.

Waterproof cloak, a paper, 78.

Water-shed, the, 93.

Welcome, a wild, 208, 209.

Wilkinson, Mr., 19.

Winter dismalness, 123.

Women, employment for, 159.

Wood-carving at NikkÖ, 60.

Worship, a supposed act of, 244.

Yadate Pass, 188, 189; the force of water, 189; landslips, 189.

Yadoya, or hotel, 37, 39, 45, 48, 63, 65, 85, 93, 100, 101, 103, 107, 122, 123, 131, 132, 134, 136, 144, 147, 156, 178, 179, 181, 191, 195, 217, 220, 226, 280, 294, 315, 316, 318; taxes on, 136.

Yamagata ken, 125; prosperous, 137; plain, 137; convict labour at, 137; town, 137; its streets, 137; forgeries of eatables and drinkables, 138; public buildings, 138; vulgarity of policemen, 138.

Yamakushinoi hamlet, 316.

Yedo city, 10 (see TÔkiyÔ); gulf of, 11; plain of, 11.

Yezo, 216, 217; itinerary of tour in, 319.

Yokohama, 3; sampans, 3; portable restaurant, 4; kurumas, or jin-ri-ki-shas, 4; man-carts, 8; railway station and fares, 10, 11; Chinamen, 15.

Yokokawa, 92; filth and squalor, 92.

Yokote, 147; discomfort, 148; ShintÔ temple, 148; torii, 148.

Yomei Gate, the, 56.

Yonetsurugawa river, 177; exciting transit, 177, 178.

Yonezawa plain, 129, 131, 133.

Yoshida, 133.

YoshitsunÉ, shrine of, 252, 253, 273, note.

Yubets, 228, 289; a ghostly dwelling at, 229.

Yuki, her industry, 69.

Yumoto village, 65; bathing sheds at, 65.

Yurapu, Aino village, 316; river, 316.

Yusowa, 145; fire at, 145; lunch in public, 146; accident at, 146; curiosity of crowd, 146.

Zen, or small table, 53.

PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS, 9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET.