| CHAPTER I. |
| SUNDAY AT TOURS—LA COLONIE DE METTRAY—BEAUTIFUL DORDOGNE—A FRENCH PARSONAGE—THROUGH THE LANDES—THE SOPORIFIC EFFECTS OF ARCACHON | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. |
| THE MISCONCEPTIONS OF LUGGAGE—THE COMFORTS OF SPANISH RAILWAY TRAVELLING—OUR LIBRARY—FROM THE TROPICS TO THE STEPPES—GREGORIA AND ISIDORA—JOURNEY TO MADRID | 24 |
| CHAPTER III. |
| THE GAIETY OF MADRID—THE IMPERATIVENESS OF TEETOTALISM THERE—THE QUEEN AND THE ROYAL BIRTHDAY—ROADS AND RIVER-BANKS—APROPOS OF BULLS | 41 |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| VELASQUEZ, THE PAINTER OF MEN—MURILLO, THE PAINTER OF ANGELS—RIBERA, THE PAINTER OF INQUISITORS—ZURBARAN, THE PAINTER OF MONKS—GOJA, THE HOFFMANN OF SPANISH ART—THE QUIETUDE OF THE GALLERIES | 63 |
| CHAPTER V. |
| A LEAR OF CITIES—GOTHIC, ROMAN, AND MOORISH REMAINS—COMMENTARIES ON STREET’S GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE AND ON TOLEDAN LANDLORDS—TILES, AND A DISCOURSE THEREON | 81 |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| A MIDNIGHT HALT—ITS CHARMS AND COUNTER-CHARMS—DON QUIXOTE’S COUNTRY—THE SLEEP AT CORDOVA—WE WAKE IN THE EAST—SHOPPING | 108 |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| “THE SWEETEST MORSEL OF THE PENINSULA”—COB-WALLS OR THE HOUSE THAT CAIN BUILT—PALMS—THE GOOD WORKS OF THE SISTERS—THE PRIESTS AND THE PEOPLE—IS SPAIN UTOPIA? | 134 |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| “A BOAT, A BOAT, MY KINGDOM FOR A BOAT!”—THE VICTIMS OF A TUNNY-FISH—SENOR BENSAKEN SPEAKS HIS MIND, AND WE ARE REPROVED—RUNNING WATERS—HOWLINGS OF TARSHISH—PEPA’S FAMILY | 158 |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| DAYS IN THE ALHAMBRA—THE GRANDEUR WITHOUT AND THE BEAUTY WITHIN—“CIELED WITH CEDAR, AND PAINTED WITH VERMILION”—AZULEJOS AND ARTESONADOS—MR. OWEN JONES’ HANDBOOK | 175 |
| CHAPTER X. |
| PIGS, VULGAR AND ARISTOCRATIC—THE GIPSY CAPTAIN BEWITCHES US—WE GO DOWN TO THE POTTER’S HOUSE—A FAMILY DANCE—AN AWFUL DISCOVERY—A BOOKSELLER OF TARSHISH | 187 |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| THE ARCHBISHOP BLESSES THE ENGINE, AND WE HELP HIM—DELIGHTFUL LOJA—A FUNNY DINNER—STARLIGHT, TWILIGHT, MORNING | 209 |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| WE GET TO ALGECIRAS, AND ARE MADE WRETCHED—THE FAT SPANIARD AND THE LEAN ENGLISHMAN—A RED-LETTER DAY AT GIBRALTAR—THE LIGHTS—ADIEU TO EUROPE | 222 |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| A BRIDAL PARTY—HORRIBLE STORIES—A LONG DAY—THE CAID AND THE DRIVER—A NEW ATMOSPHERE—TCLEMCEN | 239 |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| TCLEMCEN, THE GRANADA OF THE WEST—ARAB POETS—THE CHILDREN—THE MOKBARA—SIDI BOU MEDIN—MANSOURA—PHILO-ARABES—TEMPTATIONS IN TCLEMCEN | 253 |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| HOSPITABLE ORAN—CHRISTMAS DAY AT LE SIG—THE LAST OF THE PHALANSTERIANS—BARRAGES—THE MALARIA—ABD-EL-KADER’S MOSQUE—SAIDA | 270 |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| OPINIONS, CIVIL AND MILITARY—A LOOK TOWARDS THE SAHARA—WILD GEESE—OUR SPAHIS, AND THE CARE THEY TAKE OF US—A NORMANDY APPLE-ORCHARD IN AFRICA—NEW YEAR’S DAY | 287 |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| RAIN—HOW TO CARRY ONE’S WARDROBE—AN ENGLISH LADY’S OPINIONS ON THE ARABS—WILD BIRDS—THE EARTHQUAKE | 304 |
