  Bangor.—Inns.—The Cathedral.—Penrhyn Castle.—The Britannia and Menai Bridges.—Carnarvon.—The Castle.—Rhyl.—Holywell.—St. Winefred’s Well.—Basingwerk.—Flint.—Chester.—Conclusion.
BANGOR.This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir. We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable, it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly. It occupies a commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble prospect;—the Straits, the Shore of Anglesey, the Bay of Beaumaris, Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Penmaen Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head, with the ocean in the distance. There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the Liverpool Arms, and the Albion; the Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of Col. the Hon. D. Pennant, M.P. The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial architecture; it is protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and imposing. The park wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen feet high. To describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I feel would prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists who take this route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or they will be reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old Cambria can afford them. THE CATHEDRALWas founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh bard. The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071, and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second, are still visible upon a rock opposite to the free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us to suppose arrows were manufactured there. At the back of the Friar’s School is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British encampment. The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness particularly gratifying. The great lions of Bangor are the Menai and Britannia Tubular Bridges. THE MENAI BRIDGE.The principal opening between the supporting pillars is 560 feet in breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvas set, without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge. There are four stone arches upon the Anglesey side, and three upon the Carnarvon, which complete the roadway, and The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis, Esq., on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main chain was thrown across the strait. This important step being completed, three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk along the chain from pier to pier; and a cobbler no less daring and enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those convenient comforts called clogs. The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description. Waving woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor, and Beaumaris, Penrhyn Castle, Penmaen Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of their natural arrangement. BRITANNIA TUBULAR BRIDGE,which crosses the Straits about a mile above it on the Carnarvonshire side. Fully to appreciate this monster work of human ingenuity, the traveller should ascend the Britannia Tower, which rises from a rock in the centre of the Straits, and gaze upon the glorious panorama which surrounds him. Upon the Carnarvonshire side he will behold the mountains of Snowdonia veiling their lofty summits in the clouds. Along their sides, and through their mighty bulks, the railroad train now rolls its dragon form, shaking their rocky ribs, and awakening their echoes in its swift and thundering course; beneath him are the Menai Straits, through which the imprisoned waters of the Irish Sea and St. George’s Channel vibrate everlastingly backwards and forwards, at the same time successively rise and fall, occasioning an endless succession of aqueous changes. Upon the shores of Anglesey a rich and fertile country studded with villas, surrounded by luxuriant woods, and waving corn, presents itself, forming a pleasing contrast to the wild grandeur of the Snowdon Hills, and exhibiting an example of the perfection of cultivation, cheerful labour, and undisturbed tranquillity. It was originally intended to carry the Chester and Holyhead line across the Suspension Bridge, and to detach the trains at each end of the bridge, leaving the From Bangor the traveller can proceed by rail to CARNARVON,which is one of the best towns in North Wales, the transit is performed in less than half an hour, and he will reap unqualified pleasure by examining the numerous interesting objects which render that celebrated place so remarkable. The present town of Carnarvon is sprung from the The castle is the chief object of attraction, and excites the admiration of all who gaze upon its time-worn but majestic walls. The entrance to it is beneath a huge tower, upon the front of which is carved the statue of Edward, the founder, who grasps his dagger as if menacing his newly acquired and most unwilling subjects. Unlike the towers of Conwy Castle, which are round, those of Carnavon are polygonal, hexagonal, and octagonal, and the tourist should notice especially the Eagle Tower, which is the loftiest of them all, and which at one time possessed a double interest, created by the popular belief that Edward the Second was born within its walls; unfortunately, however, there are records in the national archives which prove that the Eagle Tower was not finished until that unhappy monarch was thirty years of age. The castle covers about two and a half acres of ground, and forms an oblong irregular square. The walls, which are at present exactly in the same state as they were in the time of Edward, are defended by Near the steep bank of the Seiont, at a short distance from the castle are rather extensive remains of an ancient Roman fort, which, it would seem, was intended to secure a landing place in the event of an attack. A little above this, and about a quarter of a mile from the Menai, is the site of the ancient Roman station Segontium, of which some fragments of a wall are the only visible remains, but underground the relics are more numerous; at the depth of a few feet occur foundations of buildings, broken pottery, ashes, and so forth—while numerous coins (some of them gold) and other Roman remains have, at various times, been exhumed. According to Mathew of Westminster, Constantius, the father of Constantine the Great, was interred here, and the same historian further asserts that Edward found the body and caused it to be honourably buried in the Church (it is supposed) of St. Publicius, or Llanbeblig. Having gratified his curiosity, the traveller may once After remaining three days in this interesting neighbourhood, I took my departure from Bangor towards Chester. The tourist who may be inclined to follow my track, and has sufficient time to spare, should leave the train at RHYL,A pretty watering place at the termination of the beautiful Vale of Clwyd, and near the mouth of the river from which it derives its name. The town is neat, and is yearly increasing in importance. From hence the visitor will obtain a view of the Great Orme’s Head, the Puffin Island, and the wide expanse of the Irish Sea. The sands are extensive, and admirably adapted for sea bathing; the hotels are both commodious and excellent. I may mention that Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, and Denbigh, are within easy distance from Rhyl, and will afford a pleasant day’s excursion. Quitting Rhyl, a short ride conveys the traveller to HOLYWELL,So celebrated for its miraculous spring. The church of this place is dedicated to Saint Winefred, and stands at the foot of a steep hill, but it is so far removed from the upper town that the bells cannot be ST. WINEFRED.The legend is told thus:—Winefred was a beautiful and devout virgin, of noble birth, and it is supposed lived in the early part of the seventh century, under the guardianship of her uncle, the good Bueno, who had founded a church here, and was conspicuous for his great piety. A young prince of the country, of the name of Caradoc, saw the damsel, and was enamoured with the beauty of her person, and resolved to attempt her virtue; seizing an opportunity, when all but the fair Winefred were at prayers, he declared to her his passion. She fled from his presence, but before The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven, and the water passes into a small square court, through an arch under which, it is said, the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. Innumerable are the miracles said to have been performed through the intervention of the saint, and as countless is the list of devotees who have paid their homage at her holy shrine, standing up to their chins in the water, and pouring forth their prayers for hours together. There are several good inns in the town, the principal ones are the White Horse, the King’s Arms, the King’s Head, and the Red Lion. About a mile eastward of Holywell, situated in a beautiful meadow, are the ruins of Basingwerk Abbey, formerly a building of considerable importance. It is surrounded by groves of tall trees, and commands a fine view of the Cheshire shore. The next place on the Chester line of railway, to which the traveller should direct his attention, is FLINT,At which place his historical recollections will be awakened by the ancient castle, which is situated upon a rock in the marsh at the bottom of the town. The castle is a square building, with a large round tower at three of the corners, and a fourth a little disjoined
Is six miles from Flint, and lying two miles on the right of the Queen’s Ferry Station; it is a neat and comfortable town, consisting of one street of about half a mile in length, and wears a cheerful aspect. The Glynne Arms will receive the visitor, and afford him every attention and comfort he can possibly desire. Hawarden Park is one of the most picturesque and beautiful domains in the principality. Its lofty trees and velvet grass, its swelling knolls and solitary glens, cannot fail to awaken the most pleasing emotions in the breast of the tourist, while the ivy-clad ruins of the ancient castle give a solemnity and grandeur to the scene indescribably interesting. In the year 1280 a general insurrection took place among the Welsh, under their prince, Llewelyn, and his brother David, for the recovery of their liberties and ancient form of government. It was commenced by David, on the 22nd of March, Palm Sunday, in a stormy night, which favoured his design so well, that he surprised this castle, put the garrison to the sword, and took Roger De Clifford, the Justiciary of Chester, prisoner. After the death of Llewelyn, and the subjugation of Wales, he suffered for this in a most exemplary manner, being condemned to four species of punishment, viz., to be drawn by a horse to the place of execution as a traitor to the king who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering Fulk Trigald, and other knights, in this fortress; for his sacrilege in committing those murders on Palm The remains of the castle consist of a fine circular tower, or keep, situated upon the summit of a mount, a few walls, and the foundations of some rooms. On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and from its extensive plan and broad foundations it has the appearance of having been erected at different periods. The modern mansion of Hawarden Park belongs to Sir S. R. Glynne, Baronet, a member of parliament, and lord-lieutenant of Flintshire. It is a stately structure, with antique-looking windows and turrets, and commands a view of the city of Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from that station to the Irish Channel. Leaving this most interesting and lovely place, and casting many a lingering look behind, I once more reached the railway station, and after a short ride of seven miles, arrived at the far-famed city of
This city still bears marks of its Roman origin. The laying out of the streets is Roman; the two principal thoroughfares crossing at right angles in the centre of the city. Its fortifications are reasonably supposed to be on a Roman basis. Remains of Roman masonry have been discovered, and the usual vestiges of the Romans have, at different times, been turned up—such as coins, fibulÆ, inscribed tiles, stones, and altars. In 1653 a votive altar to Jupiter was dug up, which had been raised by an officer of the twentieth legion, called the Victorious. In fact, the city was named in honour of this legion, Legecestria; and after the Romans ceased to occupy it, the Britons called it Caer Lleon vawr ar Ddyvrdwy: or, “the camp of the great Legion on the Dee.” In the time of the Romans Chester was the termination of the celebrated Watling Street, the great military road which extended from Dover across the island. It was in this city that the Welsh, in the year 1300, acknowledged the sovereignty of the English, the homage of the freeholders being received by the infant Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward the Second. In the year 1506, Chester was afflicted with that remarkable disease the sweating sickness, which carried off ninety-one householders in three days; and a few years afterwards made such ravages that the streets of the city were overgrown with grass. During the civil war in the reign of Charles the First, Chester stood several sieges, which lasted about three years. The inhabitants, who had sided with the king, endured great privations, but at last, when the siege was converted into a blockade, they surrendered on honourable terms to the parliamentary army. The city is situated on a dry rock above the stream of the Dee, which flows round it on two sides. The neighbouring district is a rich but level plain, presenting, however, some interesting views from the ancient walls of the town, which form one among the many remarkable features of Chester. These walls, which are now used as a healthful and favourite promenade, are especially interesting, as being the only perfect military work of the kind remaining in England, and the circuit of them is somewhat more than a mile and three quarters. They command many interesting prospects, and amongst them may be mentioned the views towards the forest hills, from the eastern point, towards North The four principal gates of the city are the terminations of the four principal streets, named respectively Eastgate Street, Northgate Street, Bridge Street, and Foregate Street. These four streets, as described by Pennant, are excavated and sunk many feet beneath the surface. The carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of shops, over which, on each side of the streets, passengers may walk from end to end, secure from wet or heat, in galleries, (or rows, as they are called,) purloined from the first floor of each house, open in front, and balustraded. The back courts of all these houses are level with the rows, but to go into any of these four streets it is necessary to descend a flight of several steps: the rows certainly form the most remarkable peculiarity of Chester, and the opinion of Mr. Ormerod is that they were first erected as galleries from which the citizens might defend themselves against those sudden inroads of armed cavalry, to which they were so much exposed in ancient times, in consequence of their position on the frontier of the English and Welsh. The old Norman castle was removed in 1790, to make room for the modern castle, which is, indeed, a noble structure, and contains the county courts, the gaol, the barracks, and the armoury. The citizens of Chester were formerly as celebrated as those of Coventry for their dramatic performances, founded chiefly on scripture history. They are attributed to one Randall, a monk of Chester Abbey, and are said to have been first performed between 1268 and 1273. My task is done, and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to see it more. But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various charms will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so much pleasure. It leads through the most interesting |
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