A south slope is the ideal situation for a garden, since it insures good drainage and the greatest amount of sunlight. The garden should also be open to the east and west, if possible; that it may have the benefit of the morning and evening sun. Shelter on the north is desirable, as north winds are disastrous to Roses and tender perennials. Partial shelter on the west should be given in localities where the prevailing winds of winter are from that quarter.

The south side of a building, or even of a high fence, with trees and tall shrubs at a little distance to the west, is best; though any site that receives abundant sunshine through the morning and early afternoon may be made satisfactory by planting trees and shrubs on the north and west.

The garden should always be at the rear or side of the dwelling, never in front or along the street. The reasons for this are obvious. The garden proper is intended to furnish cut flowers, to provide a place of experiment with new varieties, and to grow hardy perennials which have certain seasons of bloom and cannot be depended upon, at all times, for ornamental effect. One should feel free to work there unobserved of the passer-by, and this is impossible in a garden close to the street.

Again, while the permanent garden is beautiful in itself, it is not suitable for the lawn and greatly mars the effect of the grounds. Beds of ornamental foliage plants—Cannas, Ricinus, Coleus, and the like—appropriately placed, add much to the beauty of a well-kept lawn, but should be carefully considered in relation to its size and the trees and shrubbery already there.

On a small city lawn not more than one such bed should be allowed. On a large lawn three will give a better effect than a great number, especially if care is taken to have them all visible from different points on the lawn and from the house, never isolating them by so placing that clumps of trees or shrubbery intervene, but using these rather as a background for the beds.

It is from the hammock that the amateur gardener will most enjoy the results of her labour. It is there she will find leisure to watch the growth of plants, to compare the effect of different varieties, to note where she may improve the vista by a different arrangement next year, to observe the effects of locality, of the afternoon and morning sun and all the peculiarities of plant growth that escape her when busy with trowel and watering-pot, so that the view from it should be first consideration.

A very good arrangement is to put a large bed of Ricinus on the most remote space of the lawn—four plants in the centre of a twelve-foot bed—surrounded with a row of Salvia splendens edged with Little Gem Sweet Alyssum. Nearer, an eight-foot bed of the large-flowered Cannas may be introduced and edged with Coleus or the second size of Caladiums, while a six-foot bed of ornamental grasses—Arundo Donax, Erianthus RavennÆ, Eulalia gracillima univittata—will make a satisfactory third. Such beds are rich in tropical effects and give more distinction to a lawn than any other class of plants.

Where there is an ample water-supply these beds may be elevated a few inches above the lawn to make them more conspicuous; but where the seasons are hot and dry and water must be carried it is better to set them slightly lower than the lawn, so that all the available moisture may be utilised. A few inches of margin must be allowed around the edges of beds on the lawn so that the mower may run close to the beds without injuring the plants, though even then it will be best to use the lawn-shears. Such beds call for carefully trimmed lawns. Unless the grass can be properly cared for, it is better to exclude flowers from this part of the grounds entirely, as it is time thrown away to plant flowers which will presently be hidden by tall grass and weeds. A neglected lawn involves an amount of labour in the semi-annual cleaning of spring and fall out of all proportion to the results, while a lawn well cut and raked is more easily cared for with each recurring year, the grass growing clean and straight, and the rake and mower passing freely and easily through it.

The scheme for a permanent garden must be decided by the size and shape of the plot of ground at command, an irregular plot sometimes lending itself to more graceful arrangement than a symmetrical one. The operation of laying out the beds will be the same, whatever the shape. Having decided the boundaries of the garden it will be best to mark the outlines by a cord attached to pegs driven into the ground. The sod should then be removed from the entire area by cutting just below the crown of the grass. Desirable arrangements of beds are shown in accompanying illustrations. Two and one-half or three feet should first be allowed for walks. The beds may be placed to advantage by finding the centre of the plot and driving there a stake to which a cord is loosely attached. Mark off on this cord half the diameter of the bed desired, for centre of plot, four, five or six feet—fasten to the cord at this point a sharp stick and describe the circle on the ground. In this way the garden walks may be outlined and the inner and outer circles of the round beds. The oval beds must be measured off and defined by stakes driven into the ground. The width of the beds should be not more than can be easily reached across for weeding and cultivating. Where the soil has not been previously cultivated it must be spaded at least two feet deep, and thoroughly pulverised. All roots and stones should be removed. If the soil is clayey or gravelly it will be best to remove it entirely and to fill in with soil better adapted to the growth of flowers. Or the surface may be removed for several inches and laid aside. Then the poorer subsoil should be dug out and removed and the surface-soil replaced in the bottom of the bed with a liberal quantity of old, well-rotted manure. The bed should then be filled to its original level with leaf-mould or muck. If all the original soil is to be retained, remove the top-soil for top-dressing. Spade the manure into the subsoil and replace the surface-soil. In ground which has not been cultivated this surface-soil is rich in humus or leaf-mould, which furnishes food in its most available form for the young plant, and should, therefore, be left where the plant can use it and not be turned under as is usually done. Nature never turns the soil upside down; nor will the wise gardener, except when a richer and better soil is to be added or when it is necessary to work in manure.

In making beds that have been worked before and need no enriching, excellent results may be secured by pushing a long spade into the ground the whole length of its blade and twisting it around. This breaks up and mellows the ground more effectually than turning it over, while it leaves the good soil on top where the young plant-roots can get it. Later, when the plant grows sturdier and stretches out its roots in search of food, the manure-enriched earth in the bottom of the bed will attract and draw them down into its cool, moist depths, away from the heat and drought of the surface. But the young plants must have mellow, nourishing soil from the start, or they will perish before they reach this store-house provided for the mature plant.

Never prepare a garden by turning under the sod. I am well aware that this, together with turning under the surface-soil, will be the method of the average man who has had some experience of farming, but the flower-grower cannot always follow farming methods with safety.

After spading the beds it will be well to inclose them with some such permanent material as brick, cement curbing, or narrow boards. Four-inch siding set in the ground an inch or more, and held in place on each side by pegs of wood (old waggon spokes, which can usually be found at the blacksmith’s, are excellent for this), make the cheapest and most quickly constructed inclosure, and may be quite covered with such border-plants as Dusty-miller or Phlox subulata. The boards may be given a coat of dull-green paint or shingle-stain before being put in place.

The permanent garden beds should have some such protection, as it greatly lessens the work of caring for them. Sod borders are very attractive, but involve an amount of care altogether out of proportion to the effect, as they must be kept closely shaved and the constantly encroaching roots of the plants must be as constantly curbed. This is also the case with grass walks, attractive to look at, but a supreme nuisance to the gardener. Walks of gravel, cinders or coal-ashes are preferable, and should be dug deep enough to smother out all weeds in the soil. If coal-ashes are used the paths should be nearly filled, the roughest part raked off and the surface gone over with a heavy roller. If left unrolled, however, the surface will be found firm and hard after the first heavy rain. Very good and inexpensive walks are obtained in this manner. Walks, of whatever kind, should never be hoed, and the weeds must be removed from them by hand. Hardness and smoothness are the requisites of a good walk. It is well to avoid self-sowing flowers like Sweet Alyssum, or Petunias, near the inside walks, as they come up by thousands in the spring and can only be removed by salting, scalding or uprooting.

The beds should be well above the surface of the walks, especially those containing hardy perennials like Peonies and Lilies. In the case of most plants, water standing around their roots in winter is absolutely fatal.

The location of the beds and their consequent moisture and sunshine must determine the flowers to occupy them. If you are fortunate enough to have a corner low, damp and shaded in the afternoon, that is the place to set out the beautiful Japanese Iris, Cypripedium acaule and other moisture-loving plants, while the Gladiolus may be given a prominent place in full sunshine. Asters and other flowers that do not bloom until fall should have a less conspicuous place; they are so showy that they will not fail to attract attention, wherever they may be planted. Pansies and other low-growing plants should be set out in the bed next the lawn. The general effect is finer when only one kind of flower is grown in a bed, but when two or more varieties of flowers, harmonising in colour, are grown together, the tallest must be placed in the centre and the others grouped according to height. Various plants may be used as edgings, due consideration being given to the plants which are to fill the beds.

Pansies—all summer.

A—Montbretias in corners, scarlet and orange, 2 to 3 feet—all summer.

B—Gladioli in centre, in variety, 3 to 4 feet—September, October.

C—Tuberoses, 3 feet—August, September.

Border of blooming Oxalis, pink and white, 6 inches—all summer

1—Dark red Peony, 2 feet—May.

2—White Peony, 2 feet—June.

3—Pink Peony, 2 feet—June.

4—Large flowered perennial Phlox—August, September, October.

x A—Auratum Lily, 2 feet—August. September.

x B—Speciosum Album, 2 feet—August, September.

x C—Melpomene, 2 feet—August, September.

x D—Auratum.

x E—Longiflorum, white, 2 feet—June.

x F—Rubrum, 2 feet—August.

x G—Candidum, white, 3 feet—June.

Border—Phlox Subulata.

North Bed—Anemones, Whirlwind and Queen Charlotte, white and pink, 3 feet—September.

Border—Wood Anemones.

South Bed—Asters, 2 feet—September, October.

Border—Auricula, 8 inches—May.

A mass of one kind and colour is more effective than a mixed bed. The beginner will find that the percentage of success is greater in growing a large number of one kind, all requiring the same conditions of soil, moisture and sunlight, than in trying to force plants of widely different habits to grow under the same conditions. Hardy perennials, however, not many of which deserve an entire bed, do very well with several varieties in the same long bed or border, and may be so grouped as to give a succession of bloom throughout the season. A raised bed of Peonies interspersed with the new, large-blooming Phlox and bordered with Japan Lilies will give a succession of flowers from May to October; or a long bed of Hollyhocks, or Hibiscus with a row of large-flowered Phlox in front and edged with dwarf Phlox Drummondii will give months of lovely bloom. This last combination also makes a serviceable screen between the vegetable garden and the lawn, or to hide a rear fence.

In arranging parti-coloured beds of flowers, due attention must be paid to the harmonising of tints. Do not combine magenta and scarlet, or purple and blue. Separate them by the interposition of white—the most valuable colour in the garden, as it not only harmonises all colours but wonderfully enhances their brilliancy. White with scarlet, with blue, or with yellow is always good. Lavender and heliotrope are lovely with nearly all shades of scarlet, rose and pink. Blue flowers planted in the rear of the garden increase its apparent size, while white, bright yellow and scarlet, by bringing the background nearer, decrease it. Monkshood and the tall blue Larkspur are excellent for rear beds.

The accompanying diagrams will be of assistance in planning the garden—not so much in supplying plans to be followed literally as in suggesting other plans and variations, while giving practical information as to number of plants required, their distance apart and the like. Soil and other details will be treated elsewhere.

In planning a shrubbery (see Plate II.) it is neither necessary nor desirable to use boards or other curbing for the beds, but the turf should be kept neatly trimmed and cut. A plot 60 by 40 feet or more, inclosing a considerable area of turf, gives room for rustic seats, a stationary hammock, and a tree or two. The circle in the border greatly increases the accommodation for plants and furnishes an ideal spot for Lilies. The lily-pond in the centre will be discussed at length in the chapter devoted to aquatic plants.

The rather complicated design in Plate III. is intended for a rose-garden or for foliage-beds on a large lawn. It is not at all difficult to construct, and a little practice with paper and pencil will remove any apparent obstacle. If you will draw, on a scale of one inch to a foot with a compass a succession of circles of six, eight and a half, twelve and a half, fifteen and nineteen inches, respectively, the foundation of the plan will be laid. Now, divide the fourth circle into fifths and draw a half circle 4½ by 14 feet or inches on the circle of each fifth by placing the point of the compass midway between the fourth and third circle. This will leave a crescent-shaped bed. Mark off from each side of these half circles or crescents, on the space between the third and fourth circle, two and one-half feet for paths. Making the lines parallel with the crescents, the remaining spaces will form triangular beds, that for convenience may be called the third or outer row of beds.

Now if radiating lines be drawn from the corners of the crescents to the centre of the plan the point where they cross the third circle will be the upper corners of the first row of beds—the lower corners being formed by the point where the radii from the centre and left corners of the crescents cross the second circle; the third and second circles forming the upper and lower sides; the ends being formed by curved lines drawn from the upper to the lower corners. Or, having completed the row of five crescents and five triangular beds, mark off with pole or ruler radiating lines from the corners and centre of each crescent to the centre of plan; the point where these radii from the circle of crescents cross the third circle will be the upper corner of the first row of beds; the lower corners being formed by the radii from the centre and left-hand corner of crescents; the ends being formed by curved concave lines from upper to lower corner—the intervening spaces forming paths.

For Laying Out the Beds

Use a long pole with a sharp stake passed through a hole at one end and fastened with a nail driven through it horizontally, so that it can turn easily, with a number of holes for pegs at the required distances—six, eight and one-half, twelve and one-half, fifteen and nineteen feet. Drive the movable stake firmly into the ground, and do not remove until the work is finished. Slip the sharp marking peg into the hole, which it should fit closely, and mark out the circles. For the half circles, or crescents, a nine-foot stick laid straight across the edge of fourth circle will give an approximate fifth, the loss in the curve about equalling the fractional loss caused by multiplying by three alone. Drive a peg with a stick or string attached into the path a foot inside the third line and mark the circles on it; mark the paths by lengthening the stick or string two and a half feet and drawing sections of circles on each side of the half circles from the fourth to the fifth circles. Now bring the end of the long pole to the left corner of half circle and mark the radiating lines and half lines to the centre, and mark off the first row of beds as you did on paper. In this way almost any form of flowerbed may be laid out. The following diagrams for foliage-beds on the lawn will be helpful.

For a Twelve-foot Foliage-bed

One Ricinus in centre; three Ricini four feet from first, an equal distance apart—or about eight feet. Alternate with these three clumps of tall-growing Cannas. Surround with a row of scarlet Salvias, set one foot from edge of bed and twenty inches apart. Edge with Little Gem Sweet Alyssum.

One Ricinus in centre, surrounded at three feet distance by six of the largest sized Caladiums three feet apart. The third row, three feet outside, to be composed of low-growing Cannas—Queen Charlotte, Chicago, Florence Vaughan, or Papa—eighteen inches apart. Edge with dwarf Nasturtiums.

Nine-foot Bed

One Ricinus trimmed in umbrella form—that is, the lower leaves removed so that the upper may serve as a shade for the Cannas. First row, six Allemannia Cannas; second row, twelve inches outside, twelve Burbank Cannas, fourteen inches apart; third row, twenty-five Italia Cannas, fourteen inches apart. Edge with Coleus, set fifteen inches apart.

Nine-foot Bed

Centre three discolour Cannas, grouped in the corner. First row, twelve Black Beauty Cannas, eighteen inches apart; second row, eighteen inches outside, twelve large Caladiums, twenty-seven inches apart.

Twelve-foot Bed

Three Ricini in group, equal distance apart. First row, three feet out, scarlet Salvias, twenty inches apart; second row, twelve inches out, white-flowered Vincas, twelve inches apart. Edge with scarlet Phlox Drummondii or blue Tom Thumb Ageratum, six inches apart.

Nine-foot Bed of Ornamental Grasses

Large clump of Arundo Donax in centre. First row, three feet out, three Erianthus RavennÆ, six feet apart; second row, twelve Eulalia gracillima univittata, two feet apart.

Eight-foot Bed

A large clump of Setaria magna in the centre. First row, Coix lachryma, eighteen inches apart; second row, twenty inches out, Pennisetum Ruppellianum, eighteen inches apart.

I cannot too highly recommend the planting of ornamental grasses on the lawn. They are extensively used in parks and in other public grounds, but not nearly so extensively as they should be on private grounds. Many of them are perfectly hardy, and once established grow in beauty from year to year; others in the Northern States may be easily wintered in the cellar, while still others may be cheaply and easily raised from seed each year.