This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages in the sand. The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw. The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" × 2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface, 5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece similar to the hole bored in the previous piece. Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads, trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they are flush with the surface of the top piece. Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate the places where the cross pieces go. Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with the floor when setting upright. The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue. Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw which holds piece B in place. Wind Mill B Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw. Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all around. The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail, where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it. The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads. A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw. Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper. Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads. The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between B and E. Have all movable parts so that they will move freely. A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the mill to the desired location. |