The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.

The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4" wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)

The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.

Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.

Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to the point where they curve upward.

This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.

The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish. When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent, using the method shown in Plate 55.

The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".

The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and 1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between the edges.

The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".

The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as indicated. Round these upper corners.

Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing. There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.

It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.

Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.

Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to receive a 3/8" rope.

It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent splitting the block.

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint should be applied.