This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar and is suited for children of eight or over.

If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.

If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.

The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in Plate 53.

The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" × 2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and 7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the bottom end chamfered, as shown.

A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end. An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.

A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit. Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a 3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.

These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A 1/4" bit should be used to bore these.

The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and draw to the opposite corner.

Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to take a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.

Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.

Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the front.

The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".

Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed, measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given on the drawing.

On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line.

This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.

Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.

The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch, cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.

The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge with upholstery tacks to match.

The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are clearly shown.

The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.

These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply. These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.

A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm, to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes, without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches long and costs fourteen cents.

If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be substituted, two being used.

A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the screw holes in the hinges.

Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted two coats.

A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.