While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child.

First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting them 9" wide by 26" long.

On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.

Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".

These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.

The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the right-hand upper corner.

From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end. From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge 1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.

The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end 1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8" from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.

Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.

The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".

The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.

Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.

Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at places most convenient.

Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with 3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.

If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap iron.

Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.

If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each coat.