This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)

The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut them in a miter-box.

The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent to the sides and ends of the legs.

Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not to split the wood.

The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges slightly rounded.

Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)

Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8" from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel stick on which the rear leg swings.

While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent splitting.

The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3" wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are cut 8" in length.

The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the legs, and this requires considerable care.

The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.

Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit loosely.

Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the leg.

Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.

If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.

End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.

If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.

The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and countersunk.

Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.

Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.

The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step ladder is assembled.

A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.

A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.