This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.

Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43 gives the assembly drawing.

The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2" × 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point indicated.

The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".

Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the sides.

The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4" on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the center of the lower edge to attach brace block.

Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2" hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown. Countersink these four holes.

Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the top edge, as shown.

Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.

The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".

Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.

Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of a No. 6 screw.

Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head screws are used at these points.

Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, eight in all.

Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without interference.

The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.

A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of the axle to insure the screws going in properly.

The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a 1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place with glue and one 7/8" brad.

Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.

The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4". A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".

Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.

The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1" in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.

On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end. Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw.

Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.

A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.

This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through the block.

Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and handle.