Departure of the "Norma"—Last look of New York Bay—Fellow passengers—
Contrary Winds—Deceitful Appearances—Sunset in Southern Latitudes—Seas
passed over by Columbus—Varied Occupations on Shipboard—Berry Islands—
Bahama Banks—Evening in a Tropical Sea—L. E. L.—Pan of Matanzas—Morro
Castle—Bay of Havana—Arrival—Handsome House in Havana—Sights and
Sounds

LETTER THE SECOND

Havana Aristocracy—Lucia di Lammermoor—La Rossi and Montresor—Brig-of-
war—Countess de V—-a—Dinner at H—-a's—Southerly Winds—View from the
Balcony—Quinta of Count V—-a—San Cristobal—Mass at San Felipe—Erard
Harp—Dinner at General M—-o's—A Dessert at Havana—Queen of Spain's
Birthday—Dinner at the Yntendencia—La Pantanelli—Theatre of Tacon—
Railroad—Cure by Lightning—Shops—Ball at the Countess F—-a's Last
Visit—Souvenirs

LETTER THE THIRD

Departure in the Jason—Spanish Captain and Officers—Life on board a Man- of-War—"Balances"—Fishing—"Le Petit Tambour"—Cocoa-nuts—A Norte—Spanish Proverb—Peak of Orizava—Theory and Practice—Norte Chocolatero—Contrary Winds—Chain of Mountains—Goleta

LETTER THE FOURTH

Distant View of Vera Cruz—Pilots—Boat from the City—Mutual Salutes— Approach to Vera Cruz—Crowd on the Wharf—House of Don Dionisio V—-o— Guard of Honour—German Piano—Supper—Madonna—Aspect of the City— Sopilotes—Deliberations—General Guadalupe Victoria—Two-headed Eagle— Dilapidated Saint—Harp—Theatre—DoÑa Innocencia Martinez—Invitation from General Santa Anna

LETTER THE FIFTH

Departure from Vera Cruz—Sandhills—Oriental Scene—Manga de Clavo—
General Santa Anna—Breakfast—Escort and Diligence—Santa Fe—Puente
Nacional—Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward—Country in December—Don Miguel—
First Impressions—Fruit—Plan del Rio—German Musicians—Sleeping
Captain—Approach to Jalapa—Appearance of the City—Cofre de Perote—
Flowers—House and Rock—Last View of Jalapa—Change of Scenery—San
Miguel de los Soldados—Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break—Non-
arrival of Escort—Yankee Coachman Dispute—Departure—Company of Lancers
—Alcalde—Breakfast at La Ventilla—Pulque—Double Escort—Crosses—
Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper—Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of the
Peasants—Christmas-eve-Inn-"Nacimiento"

LETTER THE SIXTH

Departure from Puebla—Chirimoyas—Rio Frio—Indian Game—Black Forest—
Valley of Mexico—Recollections of Tenochtitlan—Mexican Officer—
Reception—Scenery—Variety of Dresses—Cheers—Storm of Rain—Entry to
Mexico—Buenavista—House by Daylight—Sights from the Windows—Visits—
Mexican Etiquette—Countess C—-a—Flowers in December—Serenade—
Patriotic Hymn

LETTER THE SEVENTH

DÉbut in Mexico—Cathedral—Temple of the Aztecs—Congregation—Stone of
Sacrifices—Palace—Importunate LÉperos—Visit to the President—Countess
C—-a—Street-cries—Tortilleras—Sartor Resartus

LETTER THE EIGHTH

Ball in Preparation—Agreeable Family—Fine Voices—Theatre—Smoking-
Castle of Chapultepec—Viceroy Galvez—Montezuma's Cypress—Vice-Queen—
Valley of Mexico—New Year's Day—Opening of Congress—Visits from the
Diplomatic Corps—Poblana Dress—"FunciÓn extraordinaria"—Theatre—Visit
to the Cathedral of Guadalupe—Divine Painting—Bishop—Beggars—
Mosquitoes Eggs

LETTER THE NINTH

Visits from Spaniards—Visit from the President—Disquisition—Poblana
Dress—Bernardo the Matador—Bull-fight extraordinary—Plaza de Toros—
Fireworks—Portrait of C—-n—Fancy Ball—Dress-Costume of the
Patronesses—Beauty in Mexico—Doctor's Visit—Cards of faire part—
Marquesa de San Roman—Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony—Attempt at
Robbery—Murder of a Consul—La GÚera Rodriguez—Dr. Plan—M. de Humboldt
—Anecdote—Former Customs

LETTER THE TENTH

San Fernando—House of Perez de Galvez—A Removal—Size of the Houses—Old Monastery—View by Sunset—Evening Visits—Mexican Etiquette—A Night— view from the Azotea-Tacubaya—Magueys—Making of Pulque—Organos and Nopal—Environs of Mexico—Miracle—Hacienda—View from the Countess C—- a's House—Arzobispado—Anecdote—Comparative View of Beauty—Indians— Rancheritas—Mexican Cordiality—Masses for the Dead—San Agustin—Form of Invitation—Death of a Senator—A Mistake

LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba—The Leap of Alvarado—The "Noche Triste"—Sale of a
Curate's Goods—Padre Leon—Leprosy—Pictures—The Annunciation—The
Alameda—Paseo de Bucarelli—The Viga—Indians in Canoes—A Murder—A
Country FÊte—Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino—The Jota Arragonesa—Old
Soldiers

LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival—Variety of Equipages—The Millionaires—The
Monks—Masked Ball—An Alarming Sight—Medical Students—Dinner at the
Prussian Minister's—Rides on Horseback—Indian Love of Flowers—Santa
Anita—The Chinampas—Their Origin—Indians in Canoes—Song of "El
Palomo"—Fighting—The Great Lakes—The Drain of Huehuetoca—The Great
Market of Tlatelolco

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin—Mexico in the Morning—Tacuba—Carmelite Prior—
Convent Garden—Hacienda of Los Morales—El Olivar—A Huacamaya—
Humming-birds—Correspondence—Expected Consecration—Visit to the
Mineria—Botanic Garden—Arbol de las Manitas—The Museum—Equestrian
Statue—Academy of Painting and Sculpture—Disappointment

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday—Holy Thursday—Variety of Costumes—San Francisco—Santa
Domingo—Santa Teresa—Nuns—Stone Bust—The Academy—Religious
Procession—Pilgrimage to the Churches—Santa Clara—Nun's Voice—Orange-
trees and Rose-bushes—The Cathedral Illuminated—Our Saviour in Chains—
Good Friday—The Great Square towards Evening—Dresses of Men, Women, and
Children—Approach of the Host—Judas—Great Procession—Miserere—The
Square by Moonlight—A Lonely Walk—Sabado de Gloria—Ball in
Contemplation—Weekly SoirÉes—Embroidered Muslins—A Tertulia at Home

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop—Visit to the "EncarnaciÓn"—Reception—
Description—The Novices—Convent Supper—Picturesque Scene—Sonata on the
Organ—Attempt at Robbery—Alarms of the Household—Visit to San Agustin—
Anonymous Letter—The Virgin de los Remedios—Visit to the Chapel—The
Padre—The Image—Anecdote of the Large Pearl—A Mine

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May—Leave Mexico for Santiago—Coach of Charles X.—Mexican
Travelling—General Aspect of the Country—Village of Santa Clara—
Robbers' House—Temples of the Sun and Moon—San Juan—Mexican Posada—
School-house—Skulls—Hard Fare—Travelling Dress—Sopayuca—Military
Administrador—Santiago—Matadors and Picadors—Evenings in the Country—
Dances—Mexican Songs—Cempoala—Plaza de Toros—Skill of the Horsemen—
Omatusco—Accident—Tulansingo—Beautiful Garden—Mexican Dishes—Fruits—
Horses—Games of Forfeits—Ranchera's Dress—Young Girls and their
Admirers—Verses—Knowledge of Simple Medicine—Indian Baths—Hidden
Treasures—Anecdote

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco—Lake with Wild-ducks—Ruined Hacienda—Sunset on
the Plains—Troop of Asses—Ride by Moonlight—Leave Tepenacasco—San
Miguel—Description—Thunderstorm—Guasco—Journey to Real del Monte—
English Road—Scenery—Village of Real—Count de Regla—Director's House—
English Breakfast—Visit to the Mines—Mining Speculations—Grand Scenery
—Visit to Regla—The Cascade—The Storm—Loneliness—A Journey in Storm
and Darkness—Return to Tepenacasco—Journey to Sopacuya—Narrow Escape—
Famous Bull—Return to Mexico

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball—Dresses—Diamonds—Mineria—Arrival of the Pope's Bull—
Consecration of the Archbishop—Foreign Ministers—Splendour of the
Cathedral—Description of the Ceremony

LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants—Anecdotes—Remedies—An unsafe Porter—Galopinas—The
Reboso—The Sarape—Women-cooks—Foreign Servants—Characteristics of
Mexican Servants—Servants' Wages—Nun of the Santa Teresa—Motives for
Taking the Veil

LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry—Dialogue—A Chair in Church—Arrival of the Nun—Dress
—JosÉ Maria—Crowd—Withdrawal of the Black Curtain—The Taking of the
Veil—The Sermon—A Dead Body—Another Victim—Convent of the EncarnaciÓn
—Attempt at a Hymn—Invitation—Morning Visit—The Nun and her Mother—
Banquet—Taking Leave—Ceremony of the Veil-taking—A Beautiful Victim—
The Last Look—Presentation to the Bishop—Reflections—Verses

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin—The Gambling FÊte—The Beauties of the Village—The Road from
Mexico—Entry to San Agustin—The Gambling Houses—San Antonio—The
Pedregal—Last Day of the FÊte—The Cockpit—The Boxes—The Cock-fight—
Decorum—Comparisons—Dinner—Ball at Calvario—House of General Moran—
View of the Gambling Tables—The Advocate—Ball at the Plaza de Gallos—
Return to Mexico—Reflections—Conversation between two Ministers

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C—-a—Gutierrez Estrada—Dinner at General Moran's—Dowager
Marquesa—FÊte at San Antonio—Approach of the Rainy Season—Diamonds and
Plate—Great Ball—Night Traveling—Severe Storm—Chapter of Accidents—
Corpus Christ!—Poblana Dress—Book Club—Ball—Humming Bird—Franciscan
Friar—Missions to Old and New California—Zeal and Endurance of the
Missionaries—Present Condition—Convent Gardener

LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD

The President—Yturbide—Visit from the Archbishop—SeÑor Canedo—General
Almonte—SeÑor Cuevas—Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico—Of SeÑor
Posada—His Life—Mexican Charity—Wax Figures—Anecdote—Valuable
Present—Education—Comparison—Schools—Opportunities—Natural Talent—
Annual—Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor—Families of the
Old School—Morals—Indulgence—Manners—Love of Country—Colleges

LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH

Revolution in Mexico—Gomez Farias and General Urrea—The Federalists—The
President Imprisoned—Firing—Cannon—First News—Escape—Proclamation of
the Government—Cannonading—Count C—-a—Houses Deserted—Countess del
V—-e—Proclamation of the Federalists—Circular of the Federalists—
Scarcity of Provisions—Bursting of a Shell—Refugees—Dr. Plan—Young
Lady Shot—Gomez Farias—Rumours—Address of Gomez Farias—Balls and
Bullets—Visit from the ——- Minister—Arrival of Monsieur de ———-
Expected Attack—Skirmish—Appearance of the Street—San Cosme—General—
The Count de B——— More Rumours—Suspense—Cannonading—Government
Bulletin—Plan of the Rebels Defeated—Proclamation of the President—Of
General Valencia—Maternal Affection—Fresh Reports—Families leaving the
City—Letter from Santa Anna—Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned—
Propositions—Refusal—Taoubaya—Archbishop—Fresh Proposals—Refusal—
Second Letter from Santa Anna—Government Bulletin—Proclamations—An
awkward Mistake—The Archbishop visits the President—Conclusion of the
Revolution—Government Newspapers—Circulars

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists—Letter from Farias—Signing of Articles— Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"—Conditions—Orders of General Valencia— Of the Governor—Address of General Valencia—Departure of our Guests—The Cosmopolita—State of the Palace and Streets—Bulletin of the Firing— Interior of Houses—Escape of Families—Conduct of the Troops—Countess del V—-e— Santa Anna—Congress—Anecdote—Discussion in Congress—Leprosy

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors—Virgin de los Remedies—EncarnaciÓn—Fears of the Nuns—Santa
Teresa—Rainy Season—Amusing Scene—"EstÁ a la disposiciÓn de V."—
Mexican Sincerity—Texian Vessels—Fine Hair—Schoolmistress—Climate—Its
Effects—Nerves—Tours de Force—Anniversary—Speech—Paseo—San Angel—
Tacubaya—Army of "The Three Guarantees"—Plan of Yguala—A Murder—Indian
Politeness—Drunkenness—SeÑor Canedo—Revolutions in Mexico—The Penon—
The Baths—General ———- —Situation and View—Indian Family—Of the
Boiling Springs—Capabilities—Solitude—Chapultepec—The Desagravios—
Penitence at San Francisco—Discipline of the Men—Discourse of the Monk—
Darkness and Horrors—Salmagundi

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

FÊte-day—Friendly Hint—Precautions—General Tranquillity—President in
San Agustin—Revisit Museum—Ancient Manuscripts—Sculpture—Bronze Bust,
etc.—Freshness after Rain—Ball at the French Minister's—Pamphlet—
Gutierrez Estrada—His Character—Concealment—Mexicalsingo—Minister of
the Treasury—Archbishop's Permission—Paintings—Mexican Painters—Santa
Teresa—Description of the Interior—The Penitences—Tortures—
Disciplines, etc.—Supper—Profane Ballads—Monasteries—San Francisco—
Padre Prior—Soldiers and Friars

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

dÍa de Muertos—Leave Mexico—Herraderos—San Cristobal—Tunas—Plaza de Toros—Throwing the Laso—Accidents—Rustic Breakfast—Country Fare— Baked Meat—Indian Market—Buried Bull—Mountain—Solitary Hacienda— Reyes—Mules marked—Return—Queen of Spain's Birthday—Diplomatic Dinner

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of Cavadonga—Santo Domingo—Decorations and Music—
Daguerreotype—Weekly SoirÉes—An Arrival—An Earthquake—Honourable Mr.
——- —Broken Furniture—Dios—Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe—Party to
the Desierto—Itzcuintepotzotli—Inn of Guajimalco—Ruined Convent—
Its Origin—Dejeune a la Fourchette—Splendid Scenery—Vow to the
Virgin—Musical Mass—Tacuba—Ride with the Prior

LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day—Kalends and Mass—Amateur Performances—Solo—Posadas—
Wandering of the Holy Family—Nacimiento—Crowded Party—French Cooks—
Mexican Cook—State of Household—New Year's Day—Mass—Dirtiness of the
Churches, etc.—Comparisons—Private Chapels—English Club—Preparations
for Journey

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico—Cuernavaca—Tierra Caliente—Atlacamulco—Orange Groves
—Sugar-cane—Annual Produce—Will of Cortes—Description—Coffee
Plantation—Scorpions—List of Venomous Reptiles—Aspansingo—Doubts and
Difficulties—A Decision

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave Atlacamulco—Assemble by Starlight—Balmy Atmosphere—Flowers and
Trees of the Tropics—The Formidable Barrancas—Breakfast under the
Trees—Force of the Sun—Meacatlan—Hospitality—Profitable Estate—
Leave Meacatlan—Beautiful Village—Musical Bells—Ride by Moonlight—
Sugar Fires—Cocoyotla—Old Gentleman—Supper—Orange-trees and Cocoas—
Delicious Water—Sugar Estates—A Scorpion—Set off for the Cave—
Morning Ride—Dangerous Path

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of Cacahuamilpa—Superstition—Long-bearded Goat—Portal—
Vestibule—Fantastic Forms—Breakfast—Pine Torches—Noble Hall—
Stalactites and Stalagmites—Egyptian Pyramids—Double Gallery—Wonderful
Formations—Corridor—Frozen Landscape—Amphitheatre—World in Chaos—
Skeleton—Wax Lights—Hall of Angels—Return—Distant Light—Indian
Alcalde—Cautlamilpas—Rancho—Return to Cocoyotla—Chapel—Meacatlan—
Eclipse of the Moon—Benighted Travellers—Indian Village—El Puente—
Return to Atlacamulco

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight—Fear of Robbers—Tropical Wild Flowers—Stout Escort—
Hautepec—Hacienda of Cocoyoc—A Fire—Three Thousand Orange-trees—
Coffee Mills, etc.—Variety of Tropical Fruits—Prodigality of Nature—
Casasano—Celebrated Reservoir—Ride to Santa Clara—A Philosopher—A
Scorpion—Leave Santa Clara—Dangerous Barranca—Colon—Agreeable
House—Civil Administrador—San Nicolas—Solitude—Franciscan Friar—
Rainy Morning—Pink Turban—Arrival at Atlisco—Cypress—Department of
Puebla—Volcanoes—DoÑa Marina—Verses—Popocatepetl—Cholula—Great
Pyramid—Arrival at Puebla

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre—Portmanteaus—Visitors—Houses of Puebla—Fine Arts—Paseo—Don
N. Ramos Arispe—Bishop—Cotton Factories—Don Esteban Antunano—Bank of
Avio—United States Machinery—Accidents—Difficulties—Shipwrecks—
Detentions—Wonderful Perseverance—"La Constancia Mejicana" Hospital—
Prison—El Carmen—Paintings—Painted Floors—Angels—Cathedral—Gold and
Jewels—A Comedy—Bishop's Palace—Want of Masters

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert—Diligence—Leave Puebla—Escort—View from the Cathedral Towers—
Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder—An Alarm—Report of a
Skirmish—Rio Frio—Law Concerning Robbers—Their Moderation-Return to
Mexico—Carnival Ball—Improvement in Dress

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men—Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria—
Anecdote—SeÑor Pedraza—SeÑor Gutierrez Estrada—Count Cortina—SeÑor
Gorostiza—Don Carlos Bustamante—"Mornings in the Alameda"—Don AndrÉs
Quintana Roo—Don Lucas Alaman—General Moran—General Almonte—SeÑor
Canedo—SeÑors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores—Doctor Valentin—Don
Francisco Tagle—Eight Revolutions

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister—San Angel—Profitable Pulque Estate—The Village—
Surrounding Scenery—The Indians—The Padre—The Climate—Holy Week in the
Country—Dramatic Representations—Coyohuacan—The Pharisees—Image of the
Saviour—Music and Dresses—Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians—
Strange Tradition—Paul the Fifth—Contrast between a Mexican and a New
England Village—Love of Fireworks—Ferdinand the Seventh—Military Ball—
Drapeaux

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan—Hernan Cortes—His Last Wishes—Padres
Camilas-Old Church—Procession—Representation of the Taking of Christ—
Curate's Sermon under the Trees—A Religious Drama—Good Friday—Portable
Pulpit—Heat—Booths—Religious Procession—Simon the Cyrenian—Costumes—
Curate's Sermon—Second Discourse—Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate—
Descent from the Cross—Procession of the Angels—Funeral Hymn—The
Pesame to the Virgin—Sermon—"Sweet Kitty Clover"—Music in Mexico—
Anecdote

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon—San Bartolo—Indian Women—A Beauty—Different Castes—Indians—
Their Character, etc.—Those of Noble Race—Ball at the French Minister's
—Abecilla—Danger of Walking Unattended—Shooting Party—A Murder—
Robbery of a Farmhouse—Discomfited Robber Captain—The "Zambos"—
Letters and Visitors—Country Life in Mexico

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling—FÊte at San Agustin—Breakfast at San Antonio—Report—Cock-
fight—Ladies—Private Gambling—A Vaca—The Calvario—Bonnets—
Dinner—Evening Ball—Mingling of Classes—Copper Tables—Dresses and
Decorations—Indian Bankers, Male and Female—Decorum—Habit—Holders of
Banks—Female Gambler—Robbery—Anecdote—Bet—Casa de Moneda—Leave San
Angel—Celebration—Address—Cross and Diploma—Reply—Presentation of a
Sword—Discourses and Addresses—Reflections

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera—Artists, Male and Female—Prima Donna—Lucia di Lammermoor
—Some Disappointment—Second Representation—Improvement—Romeo and
Giulietta—La Ricci—La SeÑora Cesari—The Mint—False Coining—Repetition
of Lucia—Procession by Night—A Spanish Beauty—Discriminating Audience—
A little too simple—Gold Embroidery—Santiago—Pilgrims—Old Indian
Custom—Soiree—Mexico by Moonlight—Mysterious Figure—Archbishop—
Viceroy

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo—The False Merchant and the Lady—The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces—Horrible Murder—Details— Oath—Country Family—The Spot of Blood—The Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son—Arrest of the Three—Confession—Execution—The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge—Paving of the Streets—Severity to the Monks—Solitary Damsel—Box on the Ear—Pension—Morning Concert—New Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"—Traditions—A Farewell Audience—Inscription on a Tomb

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation—Storm—Revolution—Manifesto—Resembling a Game of Chess—
Position of the Pieces—Appearance of the City—Firing—State of Parties—
Comparisons—"Comicios"—The People—Congress—Santa Anna—Amnesty
Offered—Roaring of Cannon—Proclamation—Time to Look at Home—The Will
of the Nation—Different Feelings—Judge's House Destroyed—The Mint in
Requisition—Preparations—Cannonading—"Los Enanos"

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico—Travelling Equipage—San Xavier—Fine Hacienda—
Millionaires—Well-educated Ladies—Garden, etc.—Tlanapantla—Indian Hut
—Mrs. Ward—DoÑa Margarita—The Pronunciamiento—False Step—Santa Anna
in Puebla—Neutrality—General Paredes—President in Tlanapantla—Tired
Troops—Their March—Their Return—Curate's House—Murder—General Paredes
in the Lecheria—President in Tlanapantla—A Meeting—Return of the
President and his Troops—General Paredes and his Men—Santa Anna in
Tacubaya—A Junction—President in Mexico—Allied Sovereigns—Plan—
Articles—President declares for Federalism—Resigns—Results—
Hostilities—Capitulation—Triumphal Entry—Te Deum—New Ministry

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica—Solidity—Old Paintings—Anachronism—Babies and Nurses from the Cuna—Society—Funds-Plan—Indian Nurses—Carmelite Convent—Midnight Warning—Old Villages and Churches—Indian Bath—San Mateo—The Lecheria— Fertility—Molino Viego—Dulness—Religious Exercises—Return to Mexico —Mexican Hotel—New Generals—Disturbances—General Bustamante— Inconvenience—Abuses in the Name of Liberty—Verses—Independence celebrated

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera—Santa Anna and his Suite—His Appearance—Belisario—Solitary
"Viva!"—Brilliant House—Military Dictatorship—San Juan de Dios—
Hospital de JesÚs—Cuna—Old Woman and Baby—Different Apartments—
Acordada—Junta—Female Prisoners—Chief Crime—Travaux Forces—
Children—Male Prisoners—ForÇats—Soldiers Gambling—Chapel—
Confessional—Insane Hospital—Frenchmen—Different Kinds of Insanity—
Kitchen—Dinner—Insane Monk—"Black Chamber"—Soldiers—College—Santa
Anna's Leg—Projects—All Saints—SeÑora P—-a—Leave-takings

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico—Diligence—Indian Padre—Brandy-drinking Female—Bad Roads— Beautiful View—Escort—Good Breakfast—Crosses—Robber's Head—Select Party—Lerma—Valley of Toluca—Hacienda—Toluca—Count de B—— and Mr. W———The Commandant—Gay Supper—Colonel Y———Day at Toluca—Journey to La Gabia—Heat and Hunger—Pleasant Quarters—Princely Estate—El Pilar—A Zorillo—A Wolf—Long Journey—Tortillas—Count de B———State of MichoacÁn—Forest Scenery—Trojes of Angangueo—Comfort

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave Trojes—Beautiful Territory—Tarrascan Indians—Taximaroa—
Distressed Condition—An Improvement—Cold Morning—Querendaro—Fine Breed
of Horses—San Bartolo—Produce—Country Proprietors—Colear—Ride to
Morelia—Wild Ducks—Sunset—Cathedral Bell—Cuincho—Curates Morelos,
Matamoros, and Hidalgo—Warm Baths—Handsome Girls—Starving Travellers—
Lost Mules—Lancers—Night on a Heap of Straw—Mules Found—Tzintzontzan—
King Calsonsi—Pascuaro—Kind Reception—Bishop—Robbers—Curu—Night in a
Barn—Mountain—Uruapa—Enchanting Scenery—Pleasant Family—Jorulla

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses—Saints—Music—Union of Tropical and European Vegetation—
Old Customs—Falls of the Sararaqui—Silkworms—Indian Painting—Beautiful
Heroine—Leave Uruapa—Tziracuaratiro—Talkative Indian—Alcalde's House—
Pascuaro—Old Church—Mosaic Work—The Lake—The Cave—Fried Fish—Rich
Indians—Convent—Cuincho—Darkness—Morelia—Alameda—Cathedral—Silver
—Waxworks—College—Wonderful Fleas

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo—Mass—Markets—Rancheros—San AndrÉs—Insanity—Rancho—House of Don Carlos Heimburger—Wild Scenery—German Songs—Las Millas—Leave taking—Storm—Rainbow—El Pilar—La Gabia—Toluca—News—Copper Pronunciamiento—Return to Mexico—General Moran—Funeral Obsequies—New Theatre—Cock's Mass—Santa Clara—Santa Fe Prisoners—New Year

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico—Theatre—Santa Anna—French Minister's—Parting—
Diligence—Last Look of Mexico—Fatigue—Robbers—Escort—Second
Impressions—Baths at Jalapa—Vera Cruz—Some Account of San Juan de Ulua
—Siege of 1825—Siege of 1838—General Bustamante—Theatre—Of the North
Winds

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian—Norther off Tampico—The Bar—The River Panuco—The
Pilot—The Shore—Alligator—"Paso de DoÑa Cecilia"—Tampico—Spanish
Consul's House—Society—Navigation—Banks of the Panuco—Extraordinary
Inoculation—The "Glorieta"—Leave Tampico—Furious Norther—Voyage—
Arrival at Havana

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana—The Carnival—The Elssler—La Angosta—Ingenio of Count V—-a—
General Bustamante—Lord Morpeth—Leave Havana—Voyage in the Medway—Old
Friends—Return to the United States

PREFACE

The present work is the result of observations made during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, really, not intended originally—however incredible the assertion—for publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and amusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reserved for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they should be given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations and omissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although the work would derive more credit from the author's own name, than from anything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much pleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public.

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.

Boston, December 20, 1842.

GLOSSARY

OF

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH ARE GENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READER MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.

Administrador-Agent. Alameda-Public walk with trees. Aquador-Water-carrier. Alacran-Scorpion. Anquera-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which covers the back of the horses. Arriero-Muleteer. Arroba-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. Azotea-The flat roof of a house. Barranca-Ravine. Botica-Apothecary's shop. Calle-Street. Cargadores-Men who carry loads. Chinguirito-Spirit made from sugar-cane. Chile-Hot peppers. Compadre and Comadre-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two persons address each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, or have been sponsors together at a marriage, etc. Canonigo-Canon or prebendary. Comicos-Actors. Camarista-Lady of honour. dÍa de Anos-Birthday. Dulces-Sweetmeats. DÍario-Daily newspapers. Frisones-Large horses from the north. FunciÓn-Solemnity-festival. Frijoles-Brown beans. Galopina-Kitchen-girl. Garbanzos-Chick-peas Cicer Arietinum. Gachupin-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico. Garita-City-gate. Goleta-Schooner. Gentuza-Rabble. Honras-Funeral honours. Hacienda-Country-place. Ingenio de Azucar-Sugar plantation. _Invalidos—Disabled soldiers. Jarro—Earthen jar. Ladrones—Robbers. LÉperos—Beggars, low persons. Litera—Litter. Monte Pio—Office where money is lent on security. Mezcal—Brandy distilled from pulque. Manga—Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the head through. Novios—Betrothed persons. Nuestro Amo—Our Master, used in speaking of the Host. Ojo de Agua—Spring of water. Portales—Covered portico supported by columns. Pulqueria—Shop where pulque is sold. Paseo—Public walk. Paso—Pace, pacing. Padrino—Godfather. Plaza—Square. Patio—Courtyard. Petate—Matting. Poblana—Woman of Puebla. Pronunciamiento—A revolution in Mexico. Pronunciados—Those who revolt. Rancho—A farm. Ranchero—Farmer. Rebozo—A scarf that goes over the head. Reja—Iron grate. Sopilote—Species of carrion vulture. Sarape—A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to go through. Traspaso—Conveyance, transfer. Tilma—Indian cloak. Tierra caliente—The hot land. Tertulia—An evening party. Toreador—Bull-fighter. Tortilla—Species of thin cake. Tortillera—Woman who bakes tortillas. Vaca—Joint stock in gambling. Vomito—Name given to the yellow fever. Venta—Inn.