The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, vi the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts, details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called "The Overland Route," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination.

The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and sÇavoir vivre are only equalled by their nautical experience.

Still in this—the comparative infancy of the steam route—nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.

Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and, as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention.

The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication:—

Instructions and Hints to Passengers to Aden, Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, the Straits and China.

To Bombay.

Routes through France and Trieste.

From India, vi Syra, Malta, Marseilles, or direct to Southampton.

Miscellaneous.

THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.

The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having contracted with Her Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.

The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.

The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.

As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application and choice. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company." But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them.

As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised; but it will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its place for such purposes.

The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month—provided the luggage be sent down in due time.[1]Passengers need not leave London till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less.

The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, viz.:—length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches, depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt. The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.[2]

The following are the leading points of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" regulations:—

Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incumbrance, if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those absolutely required very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance and expense on the journey.

As by the Company's regulation no trunks, boxes or portmanteaus are allowed in the cabins of their steamers, passengers should provide themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use; and this bag may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag should be taken on board with the passenger; but the trunks and other baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing.

We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers soon conquer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintanceships are rapidly formed; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time "the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be fairly appreciated.

Gibraltar.—From the title so often given to this pleasant little port and garrison—"the Rock of Gibraltar,"—the traveller expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its friendly visitors as it was unapproachable to our foes; instead of this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and plantations. After the visit of the pratique officer, boats approach the newly-arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith's Hotel offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Commercial Square, formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction. The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses low, irregular and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few public buildings worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. Mary, the court-house, the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excavations, the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices.

Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space. Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port, where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly embla zoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this, are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this, a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington.

Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael's Cave, a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and perforated by caves. The fantastic forms assumed by the stalactites give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human hands. Martin's Cave, not far from San Michael's, corresponds in character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much entertainment by their freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor's cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to Europa Point, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital, capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and bastions.

As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in use.

After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are at liberty at once to go on shore and see the "lions" of the place.

If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears, are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below 50° in the month of January, or rising above 88° during the summer months.

The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John, under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised.

These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices; one is occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge (or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English garrison; the Commissary-General tenants the Auberge de France—and so on.

The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form; the uppermost part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above-mentioned apostle. The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar, which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous, and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side-walls are two other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of that apostle.

Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the city, which belong to the Government: viz., the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar veneration.

The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, Franciscans, and the Minori Osservanti, or Reformed Franciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern architecture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta.

Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di PietÁ, the Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when leaving England.

The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest in the spot—singular by nature and art—and reposes quietly on the information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover "a grain of millet in a bushel of chaff," we merely desire to introduce to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will find little difficulty in wending his way to any part of it; he may pass from one extremity to the other without a chance of molestation or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently without a prospect of supporting a family.

Passing out at Porte Reale—the gateway at the top of the principal street of Valetta—and crossing the draw-bridge, the stupendous defences of the city become apparent—deep ditches—every approach enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon. From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the public garden;[3]a narrow promenade, of considerable extent, confined between stone walls, on the esplanade between Valetta and the extensive suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna (the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes, reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the island of Malta.

Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of PietÁ, Sliema, San Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on the PietÁ, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the PietÁ (without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the country, and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara, and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads, that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts to San Pauls Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship-wrecked. The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the island of Gozo, with St. Paul's Bay and its tower quietly reposing in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's Bay from Valetta is about eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.[4]About four miles farther on from St. Paul's Bay, and presenting more hill and dale than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive at Melleha, where the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines and sterile rock; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a small church (pretty liberally stored with votive offerings), with a court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate. Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of the road must be a calesse—deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress had in its construction, may never be finished.[5]Passing through this casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden times was designated on the maps "desert," and is now almost without population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island, the road is again covered by a line of defence; beyond this, it winds round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found in a nest of caves called "Ancient Tombs," now inhabited by some poor families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.[6]An indifferent road from this point leads to Citta Vecchia; but, as it possesses no interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to Casal Musta; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and Casal Bazan, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara at the point where the road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascending to the main road, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing through Bircharcara and the PietÁ, we return to Valetta. On the other hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right, a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter.

The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city. Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway of the aqueduct-one called "the Lions"—from two effigies in stone of that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance; this the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference to the more imposing and regal residence of St. Antonio.

From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so surrounded and intersected by stone walls, that it appears difficult to determine to what end these enclosures were erected, except before the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens, unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day, in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and water-works, on a small scale—art subduing nature, but apparently appropriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you pass through Casal Attard,—a small casal with some good houses in it, but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals.

From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the immediate neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields appear more natural and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church; without, is the suburb, properly Rabbato; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island. Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called; you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well explored, an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales concerning them; but it may be left to conjecture, whether they were the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours.

To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a pic-nic. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay; below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island, and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta.

The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the same road; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta, as far on the road as the Palace Verdali, a road branches off to the right, leading through the Casal Seggui; hence to Zettug, one of the largest and most populous in the island; and, descending the hill by a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller; passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta.

Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short distance on the main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head of the great harbour; hold the road to the right; after passing the fishermen's huts, the road leads through the Marsa—a tract, to the superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; ascend the hill and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of which is to be seen Macluba, the landslip, or, in whatever other way it may be designated; and, ascending the hill from the chapel close by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half distance, at the rude remains of a Phoenician temple, recently explored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, standing out rather conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church, leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia; at the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well-walled grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads; that to the right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of the island attends, terminates at this casal: one other casal in this direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines, which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from which this casal is a trifling distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated by the English the "Deserted Village;" turning to the left, at the end nearest Valetta, and passing by the front of the new prison, a good road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the way to Casal Luca; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass along the Marina, and so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta.

The traveller may refer to the Guide Book at Malta for other places considered of importance; but as they are remote, like the Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately; but, with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of others less remote.

As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will mislead accordingly, by directing strangers to the only two points within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension—Valetta or Citta Vecchia.

Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of any notice; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days' trip.

Alexandria.—We now arrive at this port.

For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson, the representative of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," a gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexandria, and superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus:—

As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great, the range of the temperature varying from 94° in the shade at noonday to 72° at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that travellers should be provided with warm clothing; and too great precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air.

Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for awhile in that country.

As the passage through Egypt en route to India differs but little, whether the traveller be hound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this division of our subject a short account of the only portion of the journey which can truly be called "Overland."

Stay at Alexandria.—A delay of about three to four hours occurs at Alexandria, in examining the luggage at the custom-house and loading the boats with it. During this time the traveller may, if so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and the Pacha's palace and arsenal; all of which may easily be reached on donkeys or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling cost.

The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and, embarking at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the passengers are trans-shipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles distant from Cairo, to which place some walk, whilst others ride; carriages, horses and donkeys being prepared, and in[Pg 27]
[Pg 28] waiting. There are several hotels in Cairo, the "British," "Oriental," and "English," the character and accommodation of each of which will be most accurately learned on reference to Mr. Davidson, to whom we have previously alluded.

Abstract of a Thermometrical Register, kept at Alexandria, in N. lat. 31° 13', outdoor temperature, in the shade, for one whole year.

The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and, as these animals travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pacha's palace and gardens at Shubra; or they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in the Asiatic Journal, by Mr. Stocqueler:—

Of the manner in which the ascent of the Pyramids is made, the following sketch furnishes an accurate description:—

A recent writer, describing this laborious operation, speaks of it thus:—"It is advisable, if bent on mounting to the summit, to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose trousers; for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand, while a third follows, to give you an impetus from behind, and catch you, in case of a slip. Up you go, panting and toiling, step after step (each three feet in height) and stopping occasionally to take breath, and receive the cheering congratulations of your rude guide—good, good, Inglese, berry good! and then, with an impatient grin and extended hand, 'Baksheesh!'"

We now come to the Overland part of the journey; viz., from

CAIRO TO SUEZ.[8]

The distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eighty four miles, and along the route through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses are numbered from 1 to 7, and contain the following accommodation:—

No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo, stabling and a resting-room.

No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a servants' room.

No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one resting-room.

No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, contains a large saloon, a ladies' room, servants' room, kitchen, a number of commodious bed-chambers, large water-tank, stabling, &c. Here, also, will be found, liberally provided, those "creature comforts," which so essentially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies, however, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer, a bottle of good water.

No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting room.

No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, private rooms, and servants' rooms. The same as No. 2.

No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room.

The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, in carriages, on horseback, on chairs, or on donkeys; the latter a very superior animal to those in this country. The Egyptian ass is easy in his pace, capable of great fatigue, and, it is said, will perform the whole distance with but little provender.

Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer, and, as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for Aden. Beyond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents little that can interest the traveller in his brief and expeditious trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less monotonous scene than the expanse of "blue above and blue below," which distinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land.

Aden, which was formerly called "Portus Romanicus," is a town of the Yemen, which, from its position, and now, on account of its recent occupation by the English, promises to become a commercial and military station of great importance. The town is built on the crater of an exhausted volcano, and is situate at the extremity of a small peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent basin, capable of containing an immense fleet; and is entered by a narrow passage between two other craters. It would be easy to establish defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised, as a security against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point to the gate of the town has been traced a road of about a league in length, by which the defile is reached that forms the entrance to Aden. This defile is being fortified with a gate, evidently constructed to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards long, and four or five wide; it is cut out of a rock which stands 150 yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit of the rocks on the left will complete.

In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the population did not exceed 4,000; it is now upwards of 30,000; and every morning at daybreak 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vegetables, &c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence, has contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of prosperity.

An hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from Bombay, and a great number of donkeys, attended by their drivers or proprietors (little woollyheaded urchins), offer to the passenger who may go ashore, the contrast of a dinner of fish and a ride to the town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place may be represented by a cipher.

At Aden the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for Ceylon; which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but for a few hours. Here will be found a branch steamer ready to start for China; and, to the traveller thenceward, we can promise that this portion of the journey, touching at Penang and Singapore, en route, will surpass in picturesque and romantic scenery all that his eye has hitherto beheld—we do not mean to say that, in many parts of Europe or America, there are not isolated spots equally beautiful and sublime; but, whether, for a continuous sea-journey of so many miles, for the most part, in water as smooth as a "milk pan," it can be equalled? certainly, it cannot be surpassed. The voyage from Ceylon to Penang is commonly made in six days,—the steamer stopping there six hours; that to Singapore in three days, with a stay of twenty-four hours; and, finally, to Hong Kong, in another six days. Four days under steam from Ceylon carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel, we proceed to Calcutta, occupying four days in the trip; and there terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description of the three last-named places in the section appropriated to the details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to offer any remarks here.

TO BOMBAY.

The responsibility of this journey is divided, being firstly in the hands of the Peninsular and Oriental Company; secondly, of the Egyptian Oriental Transit Company; and, lastly, of the East India Company. Forethought and precaution are therefore recommended in making the arrangements necessary to secure the passage to Bombay throughout, with as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under the circumstances above stated.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company allow a limited number of passengers to book for Aden, on the 20th of each month, and, when this can be effected, it is decidedly the most comfortable and least expensive mode of reaching Bombay. The East India Company's frigates, that convey the mid-monthly mail from Aden to Bombay, afford good accommodation for a few persons; and the run is only one of ten days' endurance.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company, under no circumstances, book the whole way to Bombay. Passengers wishing to adopt that course, and having fixed the date of their departure, should make immediate application to James Barber and Co., whose circular will be found at the end of this book, and whose advice and assistance will always be found useful to the Overland traveller.

Passengers who cannot adopt the first part of this route, so far as Aden, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, will find the following directions serve them in the time of need.

The Company's steamers for Malta and Constantinople start from Southampton on the 29th of every month, at 1·30 P.M. (when the 29th falls on a Sunday, the steamer leaves at nine o'clock on the morning of the 30th), arriving at Malta about the 10th of the month.

Passengers for Alexandria and Bombay are conveyed from Malta to Alexandria by one of Her Majesty's steamers, leaving Malta, on the arrival there, from Marseilles, of the London mail of the 7th of the month.

On their arrival at Alexandria, the same means of travelling are provided for passengers, as described in a previous part of this work; but the passenger, in this case, having only hitherto paid for his sea-journey to Malta £27 10s.—a further sum of £12 10s. has to be paid for passage from Malta to Alexandria, and then he has to make his arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company's steamer at that port, which conveys the mail to Bombay.

The Transit Company have established the following rates:—

Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the £12 rate, and one cwt. for all below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight.

Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The following may be considered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip:—

This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and views of the passenger, but 15s. per day may be taken as a fair average for living, and 5s. additional, well managed, will pay the expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a prolonged stay be contemplated or practicable.

Arrived at Suez, the passenger will have to secure his accommodation to Bombay, according to the regulations in the following pages.