The toads and frogs evolved from salamanders some 180 million years ago (Triassic period). They have changed little since they developed the large, jumping-type legs, and have become very successful. Today there are over 2,600 species of toads and frogs, and they live in a variety of environments.

With proper care, most toads and frogs do quite well in captivity. Knowing their natural history can help to furnish the keeper with the information necessary to keep these amphibians in good health.

Selection of Species to be Kept.

The selection of the proper anuran (toads and frogs) for you to keep depends partially on where your interests lie. If you are interested in toads, then the common species in your area may be selected (Missouri common toads include the American and the Fowler’s toad). The very large Marine toad, Bufo marinus, is a species that is quite hardy in captivity, and are not expensive to purchase.

Spadefoot toads (genus Scaphiopus) are rather difficult to collect, except during their breeding season, and they are extremely shy and rather difficult to keep. They do not make a very good study animal because they tend to spend a great deal of time buried at the bottom of their vivarium.

The treefrogs generally do well in captivity, but only the larger species should be considered. The very small varieties should be delicate, and require very small insects to feed on. The gray treefrog (Hyla versicolor) and green treefrog (Hyla cinerea), both are found in Missouri, as well as the barking treefrog and Cuban treefrog (Florida species), are easily kept, provided they are given a variety of live insects to eat.

The majority of true frogs (genus Rana) can be kept with little trouble, but—as with all animals—they should be kept as clean as possible. The leopard frog (Rana pipiens, blaira, and utricularia) will do well, so also will the green and bull frog (Rana clamitans and R. catesbeiana).

Because they are bred in captivity, the clawed frog, Xenopus, of Africa is available in many pet stores at reasonable prices. These completely aquatic frogs can do quite well in captivity. Another tropical frog species that is often sold in pet stores is the South American horned frog, Ceratophrys, which will eat both crickets and baby mice.

Choosing other species not listed in this section will have to be done at the discretion of the person keeping them. You may choose a species that is either too fragile (as with very small toads or treefrogs), or, if exotic species are what you are interested in, their price may be the deciding factor (some Central American frogs can be expensive).

No matter what type of toad or frog you intend to keep, remember that they require live food, and should never be kept in crowded conditions. Thus, keep in mind that insects are difficult to secure in the winter, and, the more specimens you have, the greater the problem will be to feed them. It is recommended that only one or two toads or frogs be kept at one time—get to know the animals, learn from them, and then move on to other species. Release native species in a suitable area—but never release non-native species into a new area ... give them to a zoo or biology teacher.

One last reminder: always wash your hands after having handled your captives. The skin secretions can be very irritating to the eyes.

Housing Your Captive Toad or Frog.

As with salamanders, the toads and frogs can be put into two categories: 1. Aquatic, and 2. Terrestrial (living on land). Both types of amphibians can be successfully kept in aquaria.

1. Aquatic and semi-aquatic toads and frogs. The truly aquatic toads and frogs that are often kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists are the South American Surinam toad, Pipa pipa, and the African clawed frog, Xenopus laevis. Both forms can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium with gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and some aquatic plants. A secure top should always cover the top of the aquarium. The water should be filtered, and a temperature of 70 to 78°F will do nicely for these species. The water level of the aquarium can be from 6 to 10 inches.

Many of the true frogs (genus Rana) can be kept in a semi-aquatic condition. That is, a few inches of water on one end of the aquarium, and some type of land area on the other end. In this way, the frog can either be in the water or out—whatever it wishes. One way to set up this situation would be to use a 10-gallon aquarium with a little gravel on the bottom, and a few large, flat rocks for the frogs to climb onto can be put in. A screen top must be put on the top to keep the frogs inside. If bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana) are to be kept, a 15 or 20-gallon aquarium would be needed. With this set-up, the water should be changed at least twice per week. To give the amphibians a sense of security, the back and sides of the aquarium should be painted a dark brown or black (paint the outside glass). Try to avoid any bright lights over your toads’ or frogs’ aquarium.

2. Terrestrial and Arboreal Species. All of our native toads are adapted to life on land. In captivity they will do well if given a few inches of soil (? black dirt, ? peat moss, and ? fine sand), a few pieces of bark to hide under, and a small, shallow water dish. A 5 or 10-gallon aquarium will do. The sides and back should be painted a dark brown or black, and a screen top will be needed to keep them inside. The soil mixture should be replaced every few weeks for proper sanitation. If the soil mixture becomes too wet, it should be replaced.

Besides most toads, the South American horned frog, Ceratophrys, the African burrowing frog, Pyxicephalus, and the spadefoot toads, Scaphippus, can be kept in this type vivarium. However, if you notice that the bottom of the toads’ or frogs’ hind feet are becoming raw from too much digging, it may be best to keep them on wet paper towels rather than on any soil.

Treefrogs.

A typical terrarium set-up will work very well for most treefrogs. But, even though you may have the most beautiful terrarium plants—the treefrogs will spend most of their time sticking to the upper corners of the aquarium. Besides plants, a few small branches and a shallow water dish are also required. Spraying the terrarium once-a-day will do the treefrogs and the plants some good.

The temperature for most treefrogs or terrestrial toads and frogs can range from 68 to 75°F. However, tropical species should not fall below 70°F.