  There are many species of snakes throughout the world (over 2,700 species). Some of these make very good “pets”, while others never seem to thrive in captivity. Because of the many varieties of snakes, the care of them can vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs that all snakes, regardless of the species, require in order to do well in captivity. All snakes are carnivorous. They eat only whole animals. This food may vary from termites to rabbits—with all types of animals in between. This sometimes includes other snakes. Snakes require clean drinking water, a clean cage to live in, and an all around healthy environment. The above requirements are easy to meet, but they must not be treated lightly. After the basics are met, there are other requirements that individual species may need. A common problem with keeping snakes is they often will not eat. Sometimes the reason is simply that they are not satisfied with their environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need a limb in their cage. If they don’t have something to climb on they may refuse to eat. Tropical snakes require a higher cage temperature than what is normal room temperature. This can be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above the cage. Always monitor the temperature with a thermometer and try to maintain it around 85°F. Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of time burrowing, and unless they can burrow in their cage they may not eat. Many of the more nervous species of snakes, like the racers, require a hiding box so that they will feel secure. The hiding box is often a good idea for any snake that may refuse to eat if all other conditions are favorable. Speckled King Snake Food preference can be an important factor, even with snakes of the same species. Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only fish and amphibians. Non-constricting snakes (racers and coachwhip snakes) generally do not eat large rodents or birds, but limit their diet to amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs, lizards, and even small snakes. The constrictors are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders. There are of course, exceptions, and some snakes, like the large (non-constricting) eastern indigo, Drymarchon corais couperi, which will eat nearly anything from toads and frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes vary in their diet, so do individuals within a species. Fortunately this is not very common. There are cases of a particular snake eating only a specific food animal. If a rat snake is not eating mice, it might be induced to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird. Many snakes in the wild are nocturnal, and sometimes a particular snake will only eat if fed at night, with all the lights out. Always feed the rodent eaters dead food. Often, this will cause a problem with newly Occasionally, one will come across a snake that will absolutely refuse to eat under any type of condition. Even though snakes can go for months without food, eventually a snake will starve to death. If a snake doesn’t eat, it is most advisable to try to release it in an area where it is native to. Ideally, it should be released where it was collected. If the snake is not native to your area, you may have to force feed the snake—as a last resort. It is usually best to try to force a small food animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded rod and be very careful not to injure the gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be sustained for long periods of time by force feeding, but this procedure will only forestall death for a short time in many cases. Once your snake proves to be a “feeder”, your next major concern is health. Snakes, like other animals, are susceptible to many types of diseases. Many of these diseases can be prevented with good husbandry practices. A common ailment is mouth rot or canker mouth. This is a bacterial infection of the mouth and gums that generally starts from an injury to the snake’s mouth. The first symptoms are sores in the mouth—especially along the edges of the gums. As the disease progresses a white cheesy-like substance is formed in the mouth and under the lips. The Treatment in the early stages is very simple, and can be very successful. Many different drugs can be used, most of which have a sulphur base. Sul-met is a common medication that is often used. Treatment is by making a solution according to directions, and then irrigating the infected mouth two or three times a day. Also, add some medication to the drinking water. More advanced cases would need to be treated with anti-biotic injections. Dosage depends on the size of the snake and the concentration of the medication. Respiratory infections are a major concern to anyone keeping snakes. They generally catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low temperatures for an extended length of time. The species of snake will determine its temperature requirements. A native North American snake will have a higher tolerance for cooler temperatures than a snake from the tropics. The first symptom of a respiratory infection to look for would be bubbles in the mouth. As the cold advances, bubbles will be blown out the nose, and the mouth will become full of mucus. Untreated, a cold can develop into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is easy and effective if given soon enough. First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between 80 to 88°F is recommended. The snake will need injections of an antibiotic, such as tetracycline or chlormyciten. The size of the snake will determine the dosage. The injections are usually given at daily intervals for several days. If you are in an area where there is a veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he should be consulted before any treatment is used. There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common. Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation after eating; inactivity for long periods of time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin, are all signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when it sheds (you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the snake has grown), when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates. The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake. The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites: both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after eating, then there is reason to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the proper medicine. Most worming medications are in liquid form, and they can be squirted down the snake’s throat, or injected into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected of having parasites, or any new snake in your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian. External parasites are of two types: mites and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by pulling them off with a pair of Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection, they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they had all been eradicated. Mites appear as little tiny black specks which are most often seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes. They are often seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control is very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective in controlling mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage and all decorations in it. The strip will have killed all the adult mites, but not the eggs. It is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning procedure. The No-Pest strip will also help to control ticks and flies. Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages, others use store bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages, with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium, in order to give the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden snake cage. The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snakes spend so much time coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch, What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly kept as “pets”: Rat Snakes (genus Elaphe), rodent eaters from eastern and southern U.S., average size up to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first caught, but usually tame down. The red rat snake (Elaphe g. guttata) is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes. King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus Lampropeltis), usually eat small rodents, lizards, and small snakes. Disposition, same as rat snakes. Bull Snake (Pituophis melanoleucus sayi), a large constrictor, and the largest snake native to Missouri. Will eat adult rats, mice, and baby chicks. Usually do well in captivity. Water Snakes (genus Natrix), will eat minnows, frogs, tadpoles, and sometimes mice. They will bite when captured, and will at times continue to bite after being in captivity for a long time. Hognosed Snake (genus Hetrodon), a smaller variety, averages 2 to 2½ feet. Feeds only on toads, but nearly always eats in captivity. Boa Constrictor (Boa constrictor), one of the most commonly kept snakes. Being a tropical snake—it must be kept warm (80 to 88°F). Will eat rodents and birds. Burmese python (Python molurus bivittatus), which may reach 20 to 24 feet long, is often kept as a pet by the amateur snake collector. They require the same temperature and food as the boa constrictor. Reticulated Python (Python reticulatus), same as the Burmese python, but will grow longer. Large specimens will eat rabbits. African Rock Python (Python sebae), same in general needs as the Burmese Python. Will grow slightly longer, and may not tame as easily as some other species. Large specimens will eat rabbits. Ball Python (Python regius), another species from Africa, but averages 3 to 4 feet in length. Usually a good feeder on rodents, but at times may only eat birds. Require the same needs as other tropical species. Black Rat Snake The following is a list of snakes that may have a few drawbacks as pets, or are not recommended to keep in captivity: Racers and Coachwhips (Coluber and Masticophis), very nervous ... seldom eat in captivity. Ringneck, Brown, and other small burrowing snakes; these secretive species often will not eat in captivity, and require animal foods which may be difficult to secure. Ribbon, Garter, and Green snakes; because they may be hard to feed in winter, it is best to keep only during the summer months. Eastern Indigo Snake (Drymarchon corais couperi), this species is protected in the state of Florida, and is becoming rare over all its range. Cook’s Tree Boa (Corallus enydris cookii), this species, as well as other tree boas, often have a bad disposition, and may feed only on birds. Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus canina), not only does this species prefer birds to eat, they also seem to require a very high humidity. Most tropical snakes do not do well in captivity. This may be due to the fact that they are taken out of their natural environment and it is next to impossible to duplicate the climatic conditions that they are used to. Although the above lists are far from complete, it is hoped that they will give the reader some basic ideas on how to select the snakes for his small, home collection. Once again, it should be emphasized that within a particular species of snake, there may be some The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience, but it must be remembered that it is also a responsibility. You are responsible for the care and well-being of the animal. You must learn as much as possible about the requirements of a particular snake before you decide to keep it as a “pet”. R.N.B. |
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