| CHAPTER | PAGE |
| Preface |
| I. | Furs and Their Characteristics | 1 |
| Introductory. Knowledge of furs essential. Definitions. Differences in furs of various animals. Effect of climate on furs. Effect of age and season on furs. Durability and relative weights of furs. Description of important furs. |
| II. | Structure of Fur | 21 |
| The skin. The hair. Under-hair and top-hair. Chemical composition of furs. Action of chemicals on the skin. Action of chemicals on the hair. |
| III. | Fur Dressing: Introductory and Historical | 29 |
| Objects of fur dressing. Origin of fur dressing. Use of fats. Use of salt and alum. Use of the tannins. Early organizations of the fur workers. Modern organizations of the fur dressing industry. |
| IV. | Fur Dressing: Preliminary Operations | 36 |
| Flat skins and cased skins. Herbivorous and carnivorous fur animals. Beaming or scraping. Softening the skins. Cleaning; hydro-extracting. Fleshing. |
| V. | Fur Dressing: Tanning Methods | 45 |
| Nature of the tanning process. Chief tanning methods. Comparison of the tanning methods. Effect of dyeing operations on the dressing. |
| VI. | Fur Dressing: Drying and Finishing | 71 |
| Importance of the drying process. Methods of drying. A modern type of drying device. Oiling. Staking or stretching. Beating and combing. Drum-cleaning. Unhairing and shearing. |
| VII. | Water in Fur Dressing and Dyeing | 85 |
| Importance of water in dressing and dyeing. Water suitable for dressing and dyeing. Soft water and hard water. Effects of hardness in water. |
| VIII. | Fur Dyeing: Introductory and Historical | 90 |
| Purposes of fur dyeing. Improvement of furs faulty in color. Production of a uniform shade on furs. Dyeing furs to obtain novel effects. Imitation of valuable furs on cheaper skins. Difficulties due to the hair. Difficulties due to the leather. | |
| IX. | Fur Dyeing: General Methods | 98 |
| Two methods of dyeing furs. Development of the dyeing methods. The brush process. The dip process. Blending. Drying and finishing the dyed furs. |
| X. | Fur Dyeing: Killing the Furs | 106 |
| Nature of the killing process. Old killing formulas. Modern killing agents. Procedure of killing. Killing with soda. Killing with lime. Killing with caustic soda. |
| XI. | Fur Dyeing: Mordants | 114 |
| Nature of mordanting. Purposes of mordanting. Theory of mordants. Procedure of mordanting. Aluminum mordants. Iron mordants. Copper mordants. Chromium mordants. Tin mordants. Alkaline mordants. |
| XII. | Fur Dyeing: Mineral Colors Used On Furs | 125 |
| Mineral chemicals as fur dyes. Lead dyes. Potassium permanganate as a dye. Other mineral dyes. |
| XIII. | Fur Dyeing: Vegetable Dyes | 128 |
| Wood dyes. Old dye formulas. The vegetable dye materials. The tannin substances. Logwood. Fustic. Brazilwood. Other vegetable dyes. Characteristics of the wood dyes. Application of the vegetable dyes. Application by the brush process. Application by the dip process. Production of shades other than black. |
| XIV. | Fur Dyeing: Aniline Black | 144 |
| Dyeing of seal. Nature and history of Aniline Black. Chemistry of the Aniline Black process. Three stages in the formation of Aniline Black. Methods of applying Aniline Black. One-bath Aniline Black. Oxidation Aniline Black. Diphenyl Black. Aniline Black by Green’s process. Aniline Black by the dip method. |
| XV. | Fur Dyeing: Oxidation Colors | 155 |
| The original patents. The first Oxidation fur dyes. Early difficulties. Solution of the dif
FUR DRESSING AND FUR DYEING
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