GENERAL GEOGRAPHIC FEATURES.This report has to do with the physical geography of the area in south central Wisconsin, shown on the accompanying sketch map, Plate I. The region is of especial interest, both because of its striking scenery, and because it illustrates clearly many of the principles involved in the evolution of the geography of land surfaces. Generally speaking, the region is an undulating plain, above which rise a few notable elevations, chief among which are the Baraboo quartzite ranges, marked by diagonal lines on Plates I and II . These elevations have often been described as two ranges. The South or main range lies three miles south of Baraboo, while the North or lesser range, which is far from continuous, lies just north of the city. The main range has a general east-west trend, and rises with bold and sometimes precipitous slopes 500 to 800 feet above its surroundings. A deep gap three or four miles south of Baraboo (Plates II, V, and XXXVII) divides the main range into an eastern and a western portion, known respectively as the East and West bluffs or ranges. In the bottom of the gap lies Devil's lake (i, Plate II and Plate XXXVII), perhaps the most striking body of water of its size in the state, if not in the whole northern interior. A general notion of the topography The highest point in the range is about four miles east of the lake, and has an elevation of more than 1,600 feet above sea level, more than 1,000 feet above Lake Michigan, and about 800 feet above the Baraboo valley at its northern base. The eastward extension of the west range (Plate XXXVII) lying south of the lake, and popularly known as the Devil's nose, reaches an elevation of a little more than 1,500 feet. The lesser or North quartzite range (Plate II) rises 300 feet to 500 feet above its surroundings. It assumes considerable prominence at the Upper and Lower narrows of the Baraboo (b and c, Plate II, c, Plate XXXVII and Plate IV). The North range is not only lower than the South range, but its slopes are generally less steep, and, as Plate II shows, it is also less continuous. The lesser elevation and the gentler slopes make it far less conspicuous. About three miles southwest of Portage (Plate II) the North and South ranges join, and the elevation at the point of union is about 450 feet above the Wisconsin river a few miles to the east. The lower country above which these conspicuous ridges rise, has an average elevation of about 1,000 feet above the sea, and extends far beyond the borders of the area with which this report is concerned. The rock underlying it in the vicinity of Baraboo is chiefly sandstone, but there is much limestone farther east and south, in the area with which the Baraboo region is topographically continuous. Both the sandstone and limestone are much less resistant than the quartzite, and this difference has had much to do with the topography of the region. The distinctness of the quartzite ridges as topographic features is indicated in Plate XXXVII by the closeness of the contour lines on their slopes. The same features are shown in Figs. 1 and 2, which represent profiles along two north-south lines passing through Baraboo and Merrimac respectively. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. I. General map showing the location of the chief points mentioned in this report. The location of the area shown in Plate XXXVII, centering about Baraboo, is indicated. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. II. Map of Area considered in this Report. Fig. 1. -- Profile along a line extending due north and south from Baraboo across the north and south ranges. The dotted continuation northward represents the extension of the profile beyond the topographic map, Plate XXXVII. Fig. 2. -- Profile north from Merrimac across the quartzite ranges. The dotted continuation northward represents the extension of the profile beyond the topographic map, Plate XXXVII. I. THE PLAIN SURROUNDING THE QUARTZITE RIDGES.Topography.—As seen from the top of the quartzite ridges, the surrounding country appears to be an extensive plain, but at closer range it is seen to have considerable relief although there are extensive areas where the surface is nearly flat. The relief of the surface is of two somewhat different types. In some parts of the area, especially in the western part of the tract shown on Plate II, the surface is made up of a succession of ridges and valleys. The ridges may be broken by depressions at frequent intervals, but the valleys are nowhere similarly interrupted. It would rarely be possible to walk along a ridge or "divide" for many miles without descending into valleys; but once in a valley in any part of the area, it may be descended without interruption, until the Baraboo, the Wisconsin, the Mississippi, and finally the gulf is reached. In other words, the depressions are continuous, but the elevations are not. This is the first type of topography. Where this type of topography prevails its relation to drainage is evident at a glance. All the larger depressions are occupied by streams continuously, while the smaller ones contain running water during some part of the year. The relations of streams to the depressions, and the wear which the streams effect, whether they be permanent or temporary, suggest that running water is at least one of the agencies concerned in the making of valleys. An idea of the general arrangement of the valleys, as well as many suggestions concerning the evolution of the topography of the broken plain in which they lie might be gained by entering a valley at its head, and following it wherever it leads. At its head, the valley is relatively narrow, and its slopes descend promptly from either side in such a manner that a cross-section of the valley is V-shaped. In places, as west of Camp Douglas, the deep, steep-sided valleys are found to lead down and out from a tract of land so slightly rolling as to be well adapted to cultivation. Following down the valley, its progressive As the valleys increase in width and depth, and as the tributaries become more numerous and wider, the topography of which the valleys are a feature, becomes more and more broken. At first the tracts between the streams are in the form of ridges, wide if parallel valleys are distant from one another, and narrow if they are near. The ridges wind with the valleys which separate them. Whatever the width of the inter-stream ridges, it is clear that they must become narrower as the valleys between them become wider, and in following down a valley a point is reached, sooner or later, where the valleys, main and tributary, are of such size and so numerous that their slopes constitute a large part of the surface. Where this is true, and where the valleys are deep, the land is of little industrial value except for timber and grazing. When, in descending a valley system, this sort of topography is reached, the roads often follow either the valleys or the ridges, however indirect and crooked they may be. Where the ridges separating the valleys in such a region have considerable length, they are sometimes spoken of as "hog backs." Still farther down the valley system, tributary valleys of the second and lower orders cross the "hog backs," cutting them into hills. By the time this sort of topography is reached, a series of flats is found bordering the streams. These flats may occur on both sides of the stream, or on but one. The topography and the soil of these flats are such as to encourage agriculture, and the river flats or alluvial plains are among the choicest farming lands. With increasing distance from the heads of the valleys, these river plains are expanded, and may be widened so as to occupy the greater part of the surface. The intervening elevations are there relatively few and small. Their crests, however, often rise to the same level as that of the broader inter-stream areas Southwest from Devil's lake and northwest from Sauk City, in the valley of Honey creek, and again in the region southwest from Camp Douglas, the topography just described is well illustrated. In both these localities, as in all others where this type of topography prevails, the intimate relations of topography and drainage cannot fail to suggest that the streams which are today widening and deepening the valleys through which they flow, had much to do with their origin and development. This hypothesis, as applied to the region under consideration, may be tested by the study of the structure of the plain. The second type of topography affecting the plain about the quartzite ranges is found east of a line running from Kilbourn City to a point just north of Prairie du Sac. Though in its larger features the area east of this line resembles that to the west, its minor features are essentially different. Here there are many depressions which have no outlets, and marshes, ponds, and small lakes abound. Not only this, but many of the lesser elevations stand in no definite relation to valleys. The two types of topography make it clear that they were developed in different ways. Structure.—Examination of the country surrounding the Baraboo ridges that its surface is underlaid at no great depth by horizontal or nearly horizontal beds of sandstone and limestone (see Plates XVI, XXVIII, and Frontispiece). These beds are frequently exposed on opposite sides of a valley, and in such positions the beds of one side are found to match those on the other. This is well shown along the narrow WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. III. FIG. 1. Ripple marks on a slab of Potsdam sandstone. FIG. 2. Piece of Potsdam conglomerate. The larger pebbles are about three inches in diameter. The same conclusion as to the origin of the valleys may be reached in another way. Either the beds of rock were formed with their present topography, or the valleys have been excavated in them since they were formed. Their mode of origin will therefore help to decide between these alternatives. Origin of the sandstone and limestone.—The sandstone of the region, known as the Potsdam sandstone, consists of medium sized grains of sand, cemented together by siliceous, ferruginous, or calcareous cement. If the cement were removed, the sandstone would be reduced to sand, in all respect similar to that accumulating along the shores of seas and lakes today. The surfaces of the separate layers of sandstone are often distinctly ripple-marked (Plate III Fig. 1), and the character of the markings is identical in all essential respects with the ripples which affect the surface of the sand along the shores of Devil's lake, or sandy beaches elsewhere, at the present time. These ripple marks on the surfaces of the sandstone layers must have originated while the sand was movable, and therefore before it was cemented into sandstone. In the beds of sandstone, fossils of marine animals are found. Shells, or casts of shells of various sorts are common, as are also The basal beds of the sandstone are often conglomeratic. The conglomeratic layers are made up of water-worn pieces of quartzite, Plate III Fig. 2, ranging in size from small pebbles to large bowlders. The interstices of the coarse material are filled by sand, and the whole cemented into solid rock. The conglomeratic phase of the sandstone may be seen to advantage at Parfrey's glen (a, Plate XXXVII) and Dorward's glen, (b, same plate) on the East bluff of Devil's lake above the Cliff House, and at the Upper narrows of the Baraboo, near Ablemans. It is also visible at numerous other less accessible and less easily designated places. From these several facts, viz.: the horizontal strata, the ripple-marks on the surfaces of the layers, the fossils, the character of the sand, and the water-worn pebbles and bowlders of the basal conglomerate, positive conclusions concerning the origin of the formation may be drawn. The arrangement in definite layers proves that the formation is sedimentary; that is, that its materials were accumulated in water whither they had been washed from the land which then existed. The ripple-marks show that the water in which the beds of sand were deposited was shallow, for in such water only are ripple-marks made. The conglomerate beds of the formation corroborate the conclusions to which the composition and structure of the sandstone point. The water-worn shapes of the pebbles and stones show The fossils likewise are the fossils of aquatic life. Not only this, but they are the fossils of animals which lived in salt water. The presence of salt water, that is, the sea, in this region when the sand of the sandstone was accumulating, makes the wide extent of the formation rational. From the constitution and structure of the sandstone, it is therefore inferred that it accumulated in shallow sea water, and that, in the vicinity of Devil's lake, there were land masses (islands) of quartzite which furnished the pebbles and bowlders found in the conglomerate beds at the base of the formation. This being the origin of the sandstone, it is clear that the layers which now appear on opposite sides of valleys must once have been continuous across the depressions; for the sand accumulated in shallow water is never deposited so as to leave valleys between ridges. It is deposited in beds which are continuous over considerable areas. Within the area under consideration, limestone is much less widely distributed than sandstone. Thin beds of it alternate with layers of sandstone in the upper portion of the Potsdam formation, and more massive beds lie above the sandstone on some of the higher elevations of the plain about the quartzite ridge. This is especially true in the southern and southwestern parts of the region shown on Plate II. The limestone immediately overlying the sandstone is the Lower Magnesian limestone. The beds of limestone, like those of the sandstone beneath, are horizontal or nearly so, and the upper formation lies conformably on the lower. The limestone does not contain water-worn Origin of the topography.—The topography of the plain surrounding the quartzite ridges, especially that part lying west of Devil's lake, is then an erosion topography, developed by running water. Its chief characteristic is that every depression leads to a lower one, and that the form of the elevations, hills or ridges, is determined by the valleys. The valleys were made; the hills and ridges left. If the material carried away by the streams could be returned, the valleys would be filled to the level of the ridges which bound them. Were this done, the restored surface would be essentially flat. It is the sculpturing of such a plain, chiefly by running water, which has given rise to the present topography. In the development of this topography the more resistant limestone has served as a capping, tending to preserve the hills and ridges. Thus many of the hills, especially in the southwest portion of the area shown in Plate II, are found to have caps of the Lower Magnesian formation. Such hills usually have flat tops and steep or even precipitous slopes down to the base of the capping limestone, while the sandstone below, weathering more readily, gives the lower portions of the hills a gentler slope. The elevations of the hills and ridges above the axes of the valleys or, in other words, the relief of the plain is, on the average, about 300 feet, only a few of the more prominent hills exceeding that figure. The topography east of the line between Kilbourn City and Prairie du Sac is not of the unmodified erosion type, as is made evident by marshes, ponds and lakes. The departure from the erosion type is due to a mantle of glacial drift which masks the topography of the bedded rock beneath. Its nature, and the topographic modifications which it has produced, will be more fully considered in a later part of this report (p. 85). WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. IV. The Lower Narrows of the Baraboo from a point on the South range. II. THE QUARTZITE RIDGES.Topography.—The South or main quartzite range, about 23 miles in length and one to four miles in width, rises 500 feet to 800 feet above the surrounding sandstone plain. Its slopes are generally too steep for cultivation, and are clothed for the most part with a heavy growth of timber, the banks of forest being broken here and there by cultivated fields, or by the purple grey of the rock escarpments too steep for trees to gain a foothold. With the possible exception of the Blue mounds southwest of Madison, this quartzite range is the most obtrusive topographic feature of southern Wisconsin. As approached from the south, one of the striking features of the range is its nearly even crest. Extending for miles in an east-west direction, its summit gives a sky-line of long and gentle curves, in which the highest points are but little above the lowest. Viewed from the north, the evenness of the crest is not less distinct, but from this side it is seen to be interrupted by a notable break or notch at Devil's lake (Plates V and XXXVII). The pass across the range makes a right-angled turn in crossing the range, and for this reason is not seen from the south. The North or lesser quartzite range lying north of Baraboo is both narrower and lower than the south range, and its crest is frequently interrupted by notches or passes, some of which are wide. Near its eastern end occurs the striking gap known as the Lower narrows (Plate IV) through which the Baraboo river escapes to the northward, flowing thence to the Wisconsin. At this narrows the quartzite bluffs rise abruptly 500 feet above the river. At a and b, Plate II, there are similar though smaller breaks in the range, also occupied by streams. The connection between the passes and streams is therefore close. There are many small valleys in the sides of the quartzite ranges (especially the South range) which do not extend back The structure and constitution of the ridges.—The quartzite of the ridges is nothing more nor less than altered sandstone. Its origin dates from that part of geological time known to geologists as the Upper Huronian period (see p. 23). The popular local belief that the quartzite is of igneous origin is without the slightest warrant. It appears to have had its basis in the notion that Devil's lake occupies an extinct volcanic crater. Were this the fact, igneous rock should be found about it. Quartzite is sandstone in which the intergranular spaces have been filled with silica (quartz) brought in and deposited by percolating water subsequent to the accumulation of the sand. The conversion of sandstone into quartzite is but a continuation of the process which converts sand into sandstone. The Potsdam or any other sandstone formation might be converted into quartzite by the same process, and it would then be a metamorphic rock. Like the sandstone, the quartzite is in layers. This is perhaps nowhere so distinctly shown on a large scale as in the bluffs at WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. V. The Notch in the South quartzite range, at Devil's Lake. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. VI. The east bluff of Devil's lake, showing the dip of quartzite (to the left), and talus above and below the level where the beds are shown. Unlike the sandstone and limestone, the beds of quartzite are not horizontal. The departure from horizontality, technically known as the dip, varies from point to point (Fig. 4). In the East bluff of the lake as shown in Plate VI, the dip is about 14° to the north. At the Upper and Lower narrows of the Baraboo (b and c, Plate II) the beds are essentially vertical, that is, they have a dip of about 90°. Between these extremes, many intermediate angles have been noted. Plate VII represents a view near Ablemans, in the Upper narrows, where the nearly vertical beds of quartzite are well exposed. The position of the beds in the quartzite is not always easy of recognition. The difficulty is occasioned by the presence of numerous cleavage planes developed in the rock after its conversion into quartzite. Some of these secondary cleavage planes are so regular and so nearly parallel to one another as to be easily confused with the bedding planes. This is especially liable to make determinations of the dip difficult, since the true bedding was often obscured when the cleavage was developed. In spite of the difficulties, the original stratification can usually be determined where there are good exposures of the rock. At some points the surfaces of the layers carry ripple marks, and where they are present, they serve as a ready means of identifying the bedding planes, even though the strata are now on edge. Layers of small pebbles are sometimes found. They were horizontal when the sands of the quartzite were accumulating, and where they are found they are sufficient to indicate the original position of the beds. Aside from the position of the beds, there is abundant evidence of dynamic action Fig. 5. -- A diagrammatic section showing the relation of the sandstone to the quartzite. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. VII. The East Bluff at the Upper Narrows of the Baraboo near Ablemans, showing the vertical position of the beds of quartzite. In the lower right-hand corner, above the bridge, appears some of the breccia mentioned on p. 18. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. VIII. Vertical shear zone in face of east bluff at Devil's lake. Near the shear zones parallel to the bedding planes, there is one distinct vertical shear zone (Plate VIII) three to four feet in width. It is exposed to a height of fully twenty-five feet. Along this zone the quartzite has been broken into angular fragments, and at places the crushing of the fragments has produced a "friction clay." Slipping along vertical zones would be no necessary part of folding, though it might accompany it. On the other hand, it might have preceded or followed the folding. Schistose structure probably does not always denote shearing, at least not the shearing which results from folding. Extreme pressure is likely to develop schistosity in rock, the cleavage planes being at right angles to the direction of pressure. It is not always possible to say how far the schistosity of rock at any given point is the result of shear, and how far the result of pressure without shear. Schistose structure which does not appear to have resulted from shear, at least not from the shear involved in folding, is well seen in the isolated quartzite mound about four miles southwest of Baraboo on the West Sauk road (f, Plate II). These quartzite schists are to be looked on as metamorphosed quartzite, just as quartzite is metamorphosed sandstone. At the Upper narrows of the Baraboo also (b, Plate II), evidence of dynamic action is patent. Movement along bedding planes with attendant development of quartz schist has occurred here as at the lake (Plate IX). Besides the schistose belts, a The crushing of the rock in this zone probably took place while the beds were being folded; but the brecciated quartzite formed by the re-cementation of the fragments has itself been fractured and broken in such a manner as to show that the formation has suffered at least one dynamic movement since the development of the breccia. That these movements were separated by a considerable interval of time is shown by the fact that the re-cementation of the fragmental products of the first movement preceded the second. What has been said expresses the belief of geologists as to the origin of quartzite and quartz schists; but because of popular misconception on the point it may here be added that neither the changing of the sandstone into quartzite, nor the subsequent transformation of the quartzite to schist, was due primarily to heat. Heat was doubtless generated in the mechanical action involved in these changes, but it was subordinate in importance, as it was secondary in origin. Igneous rock is associated with the quartzite at a few points. At g and h, Plate II there are considerable masses of porphyry, sustaining such relations to the quartzite as to indicate that they were intruded into the sedimentary beds after the deposition of the latter. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. IX. A mass of quartzite in situ, in the road through the Upper Narrows near Ableman's. The bedding, which is nearly vertical, is indicated by the shading, while the secondary cleavage approaches horizontality. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. X. Brecciated quartzite near Ablemans in the Upper Narrows. The darker parts are quartzite, the lighter parts the cementing quartz. III. RELATIONS OF THE SANDSTONE OF THE PLAIN TO THE QUARTZITE OF THE RIDGES.The horizontal beds of Potsdam sandstone may be traced up to the bases of the quartzite ranges, where they may frequently be seen to abut against the tilted beds of quartzite. Not only this, but isolated patches of sandstone lie on the truncated edges of the dipping beds of quartzite well up on the slopes, and even on the crest of the ridge itself. In the former position they may be seen on the East bluff at Devil's lake, where horizontal beds of conglomerate and sandstone rest on the layers of quartzite which dip 14° to the north. The stratigraphic relations of the two formations are shown in Fig. 5 which represents a diagrammatic section from A to B, Plate II. Plate XI is reproduced from a photograph taken in the Upper narrows of the Baraboo near Ablemans, and shows the relations as they appear in the field. The quartzite layers are here on edge, and on them rest the horizontal beds of sandstone and conglomerate. Similar stratigraphic relations are shown at many other places. This is the relationship of unconformity. Such an unconformity as that between the sandstone and the quartzite of this region shows the following sequence of events: (1) the quartzite beds were folded and lifted above the sea in which the sand composing them was originally deposited; (2) a long period of erosion followed, during which the crests of the folds were worn off; (3) the land then sank, allowing the sea to again advance over the region; (4) while the sea was here, sand and gravel derived from the adjacent lands which remained unsubmerged, were deposited on its bottom. These sands became the Potsdam sandstone. This sequence of events means that between the deposition of the quartzite and the sandstone, the older formation was disturbed and eroded. Either of these events would have produced an unconformity; the two make it more pronounced. That the disturbance of the older formation took place before the later Although the sandstone appears in patches on the quartzite ranges, it is primarily the formation of the surrounding plains, occupying the broad valley between the ranges, and the territory surrounding them. The quartzite, on the other hand, is the formation of the ridges, though it outcrops at a few points in the plain. (Compare Plates II and XXXVII.) The striking topographic contrasts between the plains and the ridges is thus seen to be closely related to the rock formations involved. It is the hard and resistant quartzite which forms the ridges, and the less resistant sandstone which forms the lowlands about them. That quartzite underlies the sandstone of the plain is indicated by the occasional outcrops of the former rock on the plain, and from the fact that borings for deep wells have sometimes reached it where it is not exposed. The sandstone of the plain and the quartzite of the ridges are not everywhere exposed. A deep but variable covering of loose material or mantle rock (drift) is found throughout the eastern part of the area, but it does not extend far west of Baraboo. This mantle rock is so thick and so irregularly disposed that it has given origin to small hills and ridges. These elevations are superimposed on the erosion topography of the underlying rock, showing that the drift came into the region after the sandstone, limestone, and quartzite had their present relations, and essentially their present topography. Further consideration will be given to the drift in a later part of this report. WISCONSIN GEOL. AND NAT. HIST. SURVEY. BULLETIN NO. V., PL. XI. The northeast wall of the Upper Narrows, north of Ableman's, showing the horizontal Potsdam sandstone and conglomerate lying unconformably on the quartzite, the beds of which are vertical. PART II.HISTORY OF THE TOPOGRAPHY. |