1. The conversation which you reported to me did not allow me to give up a considerable portion of the day to sleep, as it was of a very varied nature. Nicander of Colophon says that wine, ?????, has its name from Œneus:— Œneus pour'd the juice divine In hollow cups, and call'd it wine. And Melanippides of Melos says— 'Twas Œneus, master, gave his name to wine. But HecatÆus of Miletus says, that the vine was discovered in Ætolia; and adds, "Orestheus, the son of Deucalion, came to Ætolia to endeavour to obtain the kingdom; and while he was there, a bitch which he had brought forth a stalk: and he ordered it to be buried in the ground, and from it And then you will be succour'd (???sea?) if you drink. And he too constantly calls food ??e?ata, because it supports us. 2. Now the author of the Cyprian poems, whoever he was, says— No better remedies than wine there are, O king, to drive away soul-eating care. And Diphilus the comic poet says— O Bacchus, to all wise men dear, How very kind you do appear; You make the lowly-hearted proud, And bid the gloomy laugh aloud; You fill the feeble man with daring, And cowards strut and bray past bearing. And Philoxenus of Cythera says— Good store of wine which makes men talk. But ChÆremon the tragedian says, that wine inspires those who use it with Laughter and wisdom and prudence and learning. And Ion of Chios calls wine Youth of indomitable might, With head of bull; the loveliest wight Who ever rank'd as Love's esquire, Filling men with strength and fire. And Mensitheus says— Great was the blessing, when the gods did show Sweet wine to those who how to use it know; But where bad men its righteous use pervert, To such, I trow, it will be rather hurt. For to the first it nourishment supplies, Strengthens their bodies, and their minds makes wise; A wholesome physic 'tis when mix'd with potions, Heals wounds as well as plasters or cold lotions. When mix'd with proper quantities of water; Men saucy get if one-third wine they quaff; While downright madness flows from half-and-half; And neat wine mind and body too destroys; While moderation wise secures our joys. And well the oracle takes this position, That Bacchus is all people's best physician. 3. And Eubulus introduces Bacchus as saying— Let them three parts of wine all duly season With nine of water, who'd preserve their reason; The first gives health, the second sweet desires, The third tranquillity and sleep inspires. These are the wholesome draughts which wise men please, Who from the banquet home return in peace. From a fourth measure insolence proceeds; Uproar a fifth, a sixth wild licence breeds; A seventh brings black eyes and livid bruises, The eighth the constable next introduces; Black gall and hatred lurk the ninth beneath, The tenth is madness, arms, and fearful death; For too much wine pour'd in one little vessel, Trips up all those who seek with it to wrestle. And Epicharmus says—
And Panyasis the epic poet allots the first cup of wine to the Graces, the Hours, and Bacchus; the second to Venus, and again to Bacchus; the third to Insolence and Destruction. And so he says— O'er the first glass the Graces three preside, And with the smiling Hours the palm divide; Next Bacchus, parent of the sacred vine, And Venus, loveliest daughter of the brine, Smile on the second cup, which cheers the heart, And bids the drinker home in peace depart. But the third cup is waste and sad excess, Parent of wrongs, denier of redress; Oh, who can tell what evils may befall When Strife and Insult rage throughout the hall? Then to your home and tender wife again; While your companions, with unaching heads, By your example taught, will seek their beds. But riot will be bred by too much wine, A mournful ending for a feast divine; While, then, you live, your thirst in bounds confine. And a few lines afterwards he says of immoderate drinking— For Insolence and Ruin follow it. According to Euripides, Drinking is sire of blows and violence. From which some have said that the pedigree of Bacchus and of Insolence were the same. 4. And Alexis says somewhere— Man's nature doth in much resemble wine: For young men and new wine do both need age To ripen their too warm unseason'd strength, And let their violence evaporate. But when the grosser portions are worked off, And all the froth is skimm'd, then both are good; The wine is drinkable, the man is wise, And both in future pleasant while they last. And according to the bard of Cyrene— Wine is like fire when 'tis to man applied, Or like the storm that sweeps the Libyan tide; The furious wind the lowest depths can reach, And wine robs man of knowledge, sense, and speech. But in some other place Alexis says the contrary to what I have just cited:—
And Panyasis says— Wine is like fire, an aid and sweet relief, Wards off all ills, and comforts every grief; Wine can of every feast the joys enhance, It kindles soft desire, it leads the dance. Think not then, childlike, much of solid food, But stick to wine, the only real good. Good wine's the gift which God has given To man alone beneath the heaven; Of dance and song the genial sire, Of friendship gay and soft desire; Yet rule it with a tighten'd rein, Nor moderate wisdom's rules disdain; For when uncheck'd there's nought runs faster,— A useful slave, but cruel master. 5. TimÆus of Tauromenium relates that there was a certain house at Agrigentum called the Trireme, on this account:—Some young men got drunk in it, and got so mad when excited by the wine, as to think that they were sailing in a trireme, and that they were being tossed about on the sea in a violent storm; and so completely did they lose their senses, that they threw all the furniture, and all the sofas and chairs and beds, out of window, as if they were throwing them into the sea, fancying that the captain had ordered them to lighten the ship because of the storm. And though a crowd collected round the house and began to plunder what was thrown out, even that did not cure the young men of their frenzy. And the next day, when the prÆtors came to the house, there were the young men still lying, sea-sick as they said; and, when the magistrates questioned them, they replied that they had been in great danger from a storm, and had consequently been compelled to lighten the ship by throwing all their superfluous cargo into the sea. And while the magistrates marvelled at the bewilderment of the men, one of them, who seemed to be older than the rest, said, "I, O Tritons, was so frightened that I threw myself down under the benches, and lay there as low down and as much out of sight as I could." And the magistrates forgave their folly, and dismissed them with a reproof, and a warning not to indulge in too much wine in future. And they, professing to be much obliged to them, said, "If we arrive in port after having escaped this terrible storm, we will erect in our own country statues of you as our saviours in a conspicuous place, along with those of the other gods of the sea, as having appeared to us at a seasonable time." And from this circumstance that house was called the Trireme. 6. But Philochorus says that men who drink hard do not only show what sort of disposition they themselves are of, but Wine and truth; and the sentence, Wine lays bare the heart of man. And so in the contests of Bacchus the prize of victory is a tripod: and we have a proverb of those who speak truth, that "they are speaking from the tripod;" in which the tripod meant is the cup of Bacchus. For there were among the ancients two kinds of tripods, each of which, as it happened, bore the name of ????, or bowl; one, which was used to be put on the fire, being a sort of kettle for bathing, as Æschylus says— They pour'd the water in a three-legg'd bowl, Which always has its place upon the fire: and the other is what is also called ??at??, a goblet. Homer says— And seven fireless tripods. And in these last they mixed wine; and it is this last tripod that is the tripod of truth; and it is considered appropriate to Apollo, because of the truth of his prophetic art; and to Bacchus, because of the truth which people speak when drunk. And Semus the Delian says—"A brazen tripod, not the Pythian one, but that which they now call a bowl. And of these bowls some were never put on the fire, and men mixed their wine in them; and the others held water for baths, and in them they warmed the water, putting them on the fire; and of these some had ears, and having their bottom supported by three feet they were called tripods." Ephippus says somewhere or other— A. That load of wine makes you a chatterer. B. That's why they say that drunken men speak truth. And Antiphanes writes— There are only two secrets a man cannot keep, One when he's in love, t' other when he's drunk deep: For these facts are so proved by his tongue or his eyes, That we see it more plainly the more he denies. 7. And Philochorus relates that Amphictyon, the king of the Athenians, having learnt of Bacchus the art of mixing wine, Wine sometimes than honey sweeter, Sometimes more than nettles bitter. Some men, too, are apt to get in a rage when drunk; and they are like a bull. Euripides says— Fierce bulls, their passion with their horns displaying. And some men, from their quarrelsome disposition when drunk, are like wild beasts, on which account it is that Bacchus is likened to a leopard. 8. Well was it then that Ariston the Chian said that that was the most agreeable drink which partook at the same time of both sweetness and fragrance; for which reason some people prepare what is called nectar about the Olympus which is in Lydia, mixing wine and honeycombs and the most fragrant flowers together. Though I am aware indeed that Anaxandrides says that nectar is not the drink, but the meat of the gods:— Nectar I eat, and well do gnaw it; Ambrosia drink, (you never saw it); I act as cupbearer to Jove, And chat to Juno—not of love; With marplot none to come between us. And Alcman says— Nectar they eat at will. And Sappho says— The goblets rich were with ambrosia crown'd, Which Hermes bore to all the gods around. But Homer was acquainted with nectar as the drink of the gods. And Ibycus says that ambrosia is nine times as sweet as honey; stating expressly that honey has just one-ninth part of the power of ambrosia as far as sweetness goes. 9. One fond of wine must be an honest man; For Bacchus, for his double mother famed, Loves not bad men, nor uninstructed clowns, says Alexis. He adds, moreover, that wine makes all men who drink much of it fond of talking. And the author of the Epigram on Cratinus says— If with water you fill up your glasses, You'll never write anything wise But wine is the horse of Parnassus, That carries a bard to the skies. And this was Cratinus's thought, Who was ne'er with one bottle content, But stuck to his cups as he ought, And to Bacchus his heart and voice lent. His house all with garlands did shine, And with ivy he circled his brow, To show he nought worshipp'd but wine, As, if he still lived, he'd do now. Polemo says that in Munychia a hero is honoured of the name of Acratopotes: Where are the empty boasts which Lemnos heard When season'd dishes press'd the ample board, When the rich goblets overflow'd with wine? 10. On which account Bacchylides says:— Sweet force, from wine proceeding, Now warms my soul with love, And on my spirit leading, With hopes my heart does move. It drives dull care away, And laughs at walls and towers; And bids us think and say, That all the world is ours. The man who drinks plenty of wine, Will never for wealth be wishing; For his cellar's a ceaseless mine, And an undisturb'd heart he is rich in. And Sophocles says— Drinking is a cure for woe. And other poets call wine— Fruit of the field, which makes the heart to leap. And the king of all poets introduces Ulysses saying— Let generous food supplies of strength produce, Let rising spirits flow from sprightly juice, Let their warm heads with scenes of battle glow, and so on. 11. It is in consequence of wine that both comedy and tragedy were discovered in Icarium, a village of Attica; and it was at the time of the grape harvest that these inventions were first introduced, from which comedy was at first called t????d?a. Euripides, in the BacchÆ, says that Bacchus Gave men the wine which every grief dispels; Where wine is not, there Venus never dwells, Nor any other thing which men hold dear. And Astydamas says that Bacchus Gave men the vine which cures all mortal grief, Parent of genial wine. "For," says Antiphanes, "a man who continually fills I'm not beside myself with drink; nor have I so much taken As not to be quite understood by those to whom I'm speaking. But Seleucus says that it was not an ancient custom to indulge in wine or any other luxury to excess, except, indeed, on the occasion of some sacred festival; which is the origin of the names ????a?, and ????a?, and ??a?—T???a? meaning that men thought it right d?? ?e??? ?????s?a?, to drink wine on account of the gods; ????a? meaning that ????? ?e?? ??????t?, they assembled and met together in honour of the gods. And this comes to the same as the Homeric expression da?ta ???e?a?. And Aristotle says that the word e??e?? is derived from the fact that men used wine et? t? ??e?? after sacrificing. 12. Euripides says that it is possible that Those who with humble gifts approach the gods, May often holier be, than those who load The groaning altars with whole hecatombs; and the word t????, which he employs in the first line, means "sacrifice." And Homer uses the same word when he says— God holds no sacrifice in more esteem, Than hearts where pious joy and pleasure beam. And we call those festivals which are of greater magnitude and which are celebrated with certain mysterious traditions, te?eta?, on account of the expense which is lavished on them. For the word te??? means to spend. And men who spend a great deal are called p???te?e??; and those who spend but little are called e?te?e??. Alexis says— Those who with fair prosperity are bless'd, Should always keep themselves before the world; Glad to display the bounty of the gods. For they, the givers of all good, deserve A holy gratitude; and they will have it. But if, when they their gifts have shower'd, they see The objects of their bounty live like churls, Useless to all around them; who can wonder If they recall what seems so ill bestow'd? 13. A man is not fond of wine who has been used from his earliest years to drink water. But— 'Tis sweet, at a banquet or festival meeting, To chat o'er one's wine, when the guests have done eating, says Hesiod in his Melampodia. Four fountains flow'd with clearest water white; and the water which is of a lighter nature, and of greater value, he calls "lovely:" at all events he calls the Titaresius lovely which falls into the Peneus. And he mentions also some water as especially good for washing; and Praxagoras of Cos, following his example, speaks of a water as beauteous— Beauteous it flows, to wash all dirt away. And he distinguishes also between sweet water and brackish (p?at??) water; though when he calls the Hellespont p?at??, he uses the word in the sense of broad. But with respect to sweet water, he says— Near the sweet waters then our ships we stay'd. 14. He was acquainted too with the effect which warm water has on wounds: at all events he describes Eurypylus's wounds as being washed with it; and yet, if the object was to stop the hÆmorrhage, cold water would have been useful, since that contracts and closes up wounds; but with the view of relieving the pain, he bathes these with warm water, which has a soothing effect. And in Homer the word ??a??? is used for what we call ?e???, warm. And he shows that plainly enough in what he says about the fountains of the Scamander, saying— Next by Scamander's double source they bound, Where two famed fountains burst the parted ground; This warm, through scorching clefts is seen to rise, With exhalations steaming to the skies. Can we call that only warm from which a steam of fire, and a fiery smoke arises? But of the other source he says— That, the green banks in summer's heat o'erflows, Like crystal clear, and cold as winter's snows. And he often speaks of men newly wounded being bathed in warm water. In the case of Agamemnon he says— With his warm blood still welling from the wound. While his warm blood and mighty limbs were strong. The Athenians call ???a???, which is properly lukewarm, et??e?a?, as Eratosthenes uses the word, saying, "Watery by nature, and lukewarm, et??e?a?." 15. And of other waters, those which come from rocks he calls "dark," as being quite useless; and he prefers to all others the waters of springs, and those which rise to the surface from a great depth, and through rich soil. As also Hesiod says— A ceaseless spring of clear untroubled flow. And Pindar says— Ambrosial water, like fresh honey sweet, Which from Tilphossa's lovely fountains flows; (Tilphossa is a fountain in Boeotia;) and Aristophanes says that Tiresias died from drinking of it, as at his advanced age he was unable to bear its extreme cold. And Theophrastus, in his book on Waters, says that the water of the Nile is the most productive and the sweetest of all waters, and that it is also very relaxing to the bowels of those who drink it, as it has in it a mixture of nitre. And again, in his book on Plants, he says that there is in some places water which has a procreative tendency; as for instance at ThespiÆ: and at Pyrrha there is a water which causes barrenness. But it happened once when there was a drought in the district around the Nile, that the water of that river became unwholesome, and many of the Egyptians died. Theophrastus states, moreover, that not only do bitter waters sometimes change their nature, but that salt water does so too, and sometimes whole rivers do so; as in the case of the fountain in CithÆron, near which there is a temple of Jupiter; and of that in Cairo, near which there is a temple of Neptune: and the reason is, that many thunderbolts fall in those countries. 16. But there are some waters which have a good deal of body in them, and are of considerable weight; as that in Troezen,—for that gives the mouths of those who taste it a feeling of fulness. And the waters near the mines in PangÆum, in winter, weigh ninety-six drachms to half a pint, but in summer they only weigh forty-six. For the cold contracts and condenses it; on which account that which is used in 17. And in many places there are fountains, some of which are good for drinking, and have a vinous flavour; as for instance, one in Paphlagonia, which they say the natives come to for the express purpose of drinking. Some, again, are salt, with 18. I myself weighed the water which comes from the fountain called Pirene in Corinth, and found it lighter than any other water in Greece. For I did not believe Antiphanes the comic writer, who says that in many respects Attica is superior to all other districts, and also that it has the best water of any; for he says:—
Eubulus, the writer of comedies, somewhere or other says that ChÆremon the tragedian called water the body of the river:— 19. But Aristobulus of Cassandra says that there is a fountain in Miletus called the Achillean, the stream of which is very sweet, while the sediment is brackish: this is the water in which the Milesians say that their hero bathed when he had slain Trambelus the king of the Leleges. And they say, too, that the water in Cappadocia never becomes putrid, but there is a great deal in that district, of an admirable quality, though it has no outlet unless it flows underground. And Ptolemy the king, in the Seventh Book of his Commentaries, says that as you go to Corinth through the district called Contoporia, when you have got to the top of the mountain there is a fountain whose waters are colder than snow, so that many people are afraid to drink of it lest they should be frozen; but he says that he drank of it himself. And Phylarchus states that at Cleitor there is a spring which gives those who drink of it a distaste for the smell of wine. And Clearchus tells us that water is called white, like milk; and that wine is called red, like nectar; and that honey and oil are called yellow, and that the juice which is extracted from the myrtle-berry is black. Eubulus says that "water makes those who drink nothing else very ingenious, But wine obscures and clouds the mind;" and Philetas borrows not only the thought, but the lines. 20. AthenÆus then, having delivered this lecture on water, like a rhetorician, stopped awhile, and then began again. Amphis, the comic writer, says somewhere or other— There is, I take it, often sense in wine, And those are stupid who on water dine. And Antiphanes says— Take the hair, it well is written, Of the dog by whom you're bitten. Work off one wine by his brother, And one labour with another; One crier with his fellow's voice; Insult with insult, war with war, Faction with faction, care with care; Cook with cook, and strife with strife, Business with business, wife with wife. The ancients applied the word ???at?? even to unmixed water. Sophron says— Pour unmix'd water (?d?? ???at??) in the cup. 21. Phylarchus says that Theodorus the LarissÆan was a water-drinker; the man, I mean, who was always so hostile to king Antigonus. He asserts also that all the Spaniards drink water, though they are the richest of all men, for they have the greatest abundance of gold and silver in their country. And he says, too, that they eat only once a day, out of stinginess, though they wear most expensive clothes. And Aristotle or Theophrastus speaks of a man named Philinus as never having taken any drink or solid food whatever, except milk alone, during the whole of his life. And Pythermus, in his account of the tyrants of PirÆus, mentions Glaucon as having been a water-drinker. And Hegesander the Delphian says that Anchimolus and Moschus, sophists who lived in Elis, were water-drinkers all their lives; and that they ate nothing but figs, and for all that, were quite as healthy and vigorous as any one else; but that their perspiration had such an offensive smell, that every one avoided them at the baths. And Matris the Athenian, as long as he lived, ate nothing except a few myrtle-berries each day, and abstained from wine and every other kind of drink except water. Lamprus, too, the musician, was a water-drinker, concerning whom Phrynichus says, "that the gulls lamented, when Lamprus died among them, being a man who was a water-drinker, a subtle hypersophist, a dry skeleton of the Muses, an ague to nightingales, a hymn to hell." And Machon the comic poet mentions Moschion as a water-drinker. 22. But Aristotle, in his book on Drunkenness, says, that some men who have been fond of salt meat have yet not had their thirst stimulated by it; of whom Archonides the Argive was one. And Mago the Carthaginian passed three times through the African desert eating dry meal and never drinking. And Polemo the Academic philosopher, from the A change of meat is often good, And men, when tired of common food, Redoubled pleasure often feel, When sitting at a novel meal. 23. The king of Persia, as Herodotus relates in his first book, drank no water, except what came from the river Choaspes, which flows by Susa. And when he was on a journey, he had numbers of four-wheeled waggons drawn by mules following him, laden with silver vessels containing this water, which was boiled to make it keep. And Ctesias the Cnidian explains also in what manner this water was boiled, and how it was put into the vessels and brought to the king, saying that it was the lightest and sweetest of all waters. And the second king of Egypt, he who was surnamed Philadelphus, having given his daughter Berenice in marriage to Antiochus the king of Syria, took the trouble to send her water from the river Nile, in order that his child might drink of no other river, as Polybius relates. And 24. Now men who drink hard before eating, are usually not very comfortable in their digestion, which are apt to get out of order by such a system, and what they eat often turns sour on the stomach. So that a man who has a regard for his health, ought to take regular exercise, for the sake of promoting frequent perspiration; and he ought also to use the bath regularly for the sake of moistening and relaxing his body. And besides this, and before he bathes, he should drink water, as being an excellent thing,—drinking warm water usually in winter and spring, and cold water in summer, in order not to weaken the stomach. But he should only drink in moderation before the bath or the gymnasium, for the sake of diffusing what he drinks throughout his system beforehand, and in order to prevent the unmixed strength of wine from having too much effect on his extremities. And if any one thinks it too much trouble to live on this system, let him take sweet wine, either mixed with water or warmed, especially that which is called p??t??p??, the sweet Lesbian wine, as being very good for the stomach. Now sweet wines do not make the head heavy, as Hippocrates says in his book on Diet, which some entitle, "The Book on Sharp Pains;" others, "The Book on Barleywater;" and others, "The Book against the Cnidian Theories." His words are: "Sweet wine is less calculated to make the head heavy, and it takes less hold of the mind, and passes through the bowels easier than other wine." But Posidonius says, that it is not a good thing to pledge one's friends as the Carmani do; for they, when at their banquets they wish to testify their friendship for each other, cut the veins on their faces, and mingle the blood which flows down with the liquor, His nose he anoints, and thinks it plain 'Tis good for health with scents to feed the brain. 25. But one ought to avoid thick perfumes, and to drink water which is thin and transparent, and which in respect of weight is light, and which has no earthy particles in it. And that water is best which is of a moderate heat or coldness, and which, when poured into a brazen or silver vessel, does not produce a blackish sediment. Hippocrates says, "Water which is easily warmed or easily chilled is always lighter." But that water is bad which takes a long time to boil vegetables; and so too is water full of nitre, or brackish. And in his book upon Waters, Hippocrates calls good water drinkable; but stagnant water he calls bad, such as that from ponds or marshes. And most spring-water is rather hard. But Erasistratus says that some people test water by weight, and that is a most stupid proceeding. "For just look," says he, "if men compare the water from the fountain Amphiaraus with that from the Eretrian spring, though one of them is good and the other bad, there is absolutely no difference in their respective weights." And Hippocrates, in his book on Places, says that those waters are the best which flow from high ground, and from dry hills, "for they are white, and sweet, and are able to bear very little wine, and are warm in winter and cold in summer." And he praises those most, the springs of which break towards the east, and especially towards the north-east, for they must inevitably be clear, and fragrant, and light. Diocles says that water is good for the digestion, and not apt to cause flatulency, that it is moderately cooling, and good for the eyes, and that it has no tendency to make the head feel heavy, and that it adds vigour to the mind and body. And Praxagoras 26. But that water is undeniably nutritious is plain from the fact that some animals are nourished by it alone, as for instance, grasshoppers. And there are many other liquids which are nutritious, such as milk, barleywater, and wine. At all events, animals at the breast are nourished by milk; and there are many nations who drink nothing but milk. And it is said that Democritus, the philosopher of Abdera, after he had determined to rid himself of life on account of his extreme old age, and when he had begun to diminish his food day by day, when the day of the Thesmophorian festival came round, and the women of his household besought him not to die during the festival, in order that they might not be debarred from their share in the festivities, was persuaded, and ordered a vessel full of honey to be set near him: and in this way he lived many days with no other support than honey; and then some days after, when the honey had been taken away, he died. But Democritus had always been fond of honey; and he once answered a man, who asked him how he could live in the enjoyment of the best health, that he might do so if he constantly moistened his inward parts with honey, and his outward man with oil. And bread and honey was the chief food of the Pythagoreans, according to the statement of Aristoxenus, who says that those who eat this for breakfast were free from disease all their lives. And Lycus says that the Cyrneans (and they are a people who live near Sardinia) are very long-lived, because they are continually eating honey; and it is produced in great quantities among them. 27. When he says, men have adjourned the investigation into all such matters, he uses the word ??at???e??? instead of ??aa???e???. The word ???st?? is used in the same sense as ??st??, i.e. fasting (just as we find st???? and ?sta???) by Cratinus, when he says— For you are not the first who's come to supper After a lengthen'd fast, And the word ???pe???? is used by Diphilus for hungry— And Antiphanes says—
And Eubulus says— Then Zethus was advised to seek the plain, The holy plain of Thebes; for there men sell The cheapest loaves and cakes. Again advice came to the great Amphion, The sweet musician, pointing out to him The famous Athens for his resting-place. Whose sons at hunger ne'er repine, but feed On air and sweetest hopes. 28. The word ???s?t??, eating once a day, occurs too in Alexis— When you meet with a man who takes only one meal, Or a poet who music pretends not to feel; The man half his life, the bard half his art, loses; And sound reason to call either living refuses. And Plato says, "he not only was not content with one meal a-day, but sometimes he even dined twice the same day." We know that men used to call sweetmeats ???a?e?ata. Araros says in the Campylion— These ???a?e?ata are very nice. And Alexis says— In Thasian feasts his friends he meets, And ???a???e?, sweatmeats eats. And Antiphanes, in the Busiris, says— Grapes, and pomegranates, and palms, And other ???a?a. Philonides used the word ?p?s?t?? for fasting; and Crobylus has the word a?t?s?t??, writing pa??s?t??, a?t?s?t??. Eupolis, too, used ??a??st?t?? for without breakfast; Crates has the word ??a???s?t??, eating by force, and Nicostratus uses ??a???s?t??. There is a youth most delicately curl'd, Whom I do feed by force beneath the earth. And Alexis has the word ???st?de?p???, breakfast-dinner— By whom the breakfast-dinner is prepared. Now that rooms were fitted up with couches for three, and with couches for four, and for seven, and for nine, and for other successive numbers, in the time of the ancients, we may prove from Antiphanes, who says— I bring you, since you are but three, To a room with equal couches. And Phrynichus says— One room had seven couches fine, While another boasted nine. And Eubulus says—
And Amphis says— Will you not place a couch for three? Anaxandrides— A couch was spread, And songs to please the aged man. Open the supper rooms, and sweep the house, And spread the couches fair, and light the fire; Bring forth the cups, and fill with generous wine. 30. ..... And Plato the philosopher, "Men now distinguish the couches and coverings with reference to what is put round the couch and what is put under it." And his namesake, the comic poet, says— There the well-dress'd guests recline On couches rich with ivory feet; And on their purple cushions dine, Which rich Sardinian carpets meet. For the art of weaving embroidered cloths was in great perfection in his time, Acesas and Helicon, natives of Cyprus, being exceedingly eminent for their skill in it; and they were weavers of very high reputation. And Helicon was the son of Acesas, as Hieronymus reports: and so at Pytho there is an inscription on some work— Whose wondrous work you now do gaze upon; And fair Minerva's teaching bade his name And wondrous skill survive in deathless fame. And Pathymias the Egyptian was a man of similar renown. Ephippus says— Place me where rose-strewn couches fill the room, That I may steep myself in rich perfume. Aristophanes says— Oh you who press your mistress to your arms, All night upon sweet-scented couches lying. Sophron too speaks of coverlets embroidered with figures of birds as of great value. And Homer, the most admirable of all poets, calls those cloths which are spread below ??ta, that is to say, white, neither dyed nor embroidered. But the coverlets which are laid above he calls "beautiful purple cloths." 31. The Persians, according to the account of Heraclides, are the people who first introduced the system of having particular servants to prepare the couches, in order that they might always be elegantly arranged and well made. And on this account Artaxerxes, having a high esteem for Timagoras the Cretan, or, as Phanias the Peripatetic says, for Entimus the Gortinian, who went up to the king in rivalry of Themistocles, gave him a tent of extraordinary size and beauty, and a couch with silver feet; and he sent him also expensive coverlets, and a man to arrange them, saying that the Greeks did not know how to arrange a couch. And so completely had this Cretan gained the favour of the king, that he was invited to a banquet of the royal family, an honour which had never been paid to any Greek before, and never has been since; for it was reserved as an especial compliment for the king's relations. Nor was this compliment paid to Timagoras the Athenian, who submitted to offer adoration to the king, and who was held in the highest honour by him, though some of the things which were set before the king were sent to him from the royal table. The king of Persia, too, once took a chaplet from off his head and dipped it in perfume, and sent it to Antalcidas the LacedÆmonian. But he did this too, and many similar things, to Entimus; also, and in addition to everything else, he invited him to a banquet of the royal family. And the Persians were very indignant at this, 32. There were tables with ivory feet, the top slabs of which were made of maple wood. Cratinus says— Fair girls await you, and a table Of highly polish'd dappled maple. And when one of the Cynics used the word t??p???, meaning a table, Ulpian got indignant and said, "To-day I seem to have trouble coming on me arising out of my actual want of business; for what does this fellow mean by his tripod, unless indeed he counts Diogenes' stick and his two feet, and so makes him out to be a tripod? At all events every one else calls the thing which is set before us t??pe?a." Hesiod, in his poem on the marriage of Ceyx, (although indeed the sons of the Grammarians deny that that poem is his work, but I myself think that it is an ancient piece,) does call tables t??p?de?. And Xenophon, a most accomplished writer, in the second book of the Anabasis, writes—"???p?de? were brought in for every one, to the number of about twenty, loaded with ready carved meats." And he goes on, "And these t??pe?a? were placed for the most part where the strangers sat." Antiphanes says— The t??p??? was removed, we wash'd our hands. Eubulus says— A. Here are five t??p?de? for you; here five more. B. Why I shall be quinquagenarian. Epicharmus says—
33. It was a custom at feasts, that a guest when he had lain down should have a paper given to him, containing a bill of fare of what there was for dinner, so that he might know what the cook was going to serve up. We find a fruit called Damascenes. Now many of the ancient writers mention Damascus, a city of great reputation and importance; and as there is a great quantity of plum-trees in the territory of the Damascenes, and as they are cultivated there with exceeding care, the tree itself has got to be called a Damascene, as being a kind of plum different from what is found in other countries. The fruit is more like prunes. And many writers speak of them, and Hipponax says— I have a garland of damascenes and mint. And Alexis says—
And again he says— Did you e'er see a sausage toasted, Or dish of tripe well stuff'd and roasted? Or damascenes stew'd in rich confection?— Such was that gentleman's complexion. Nicander says— The fruit they call a plum, the cuckoo's prize. But Clearchus the Peripatetic says that the Rhodians and Sicilians call plums ????a, and so Theocritus the Syracusan uses the word— Heavy with plums, the branches swept the ground. And again he says— Far as the apple doth the plum surpass. But the damascene is smaller in circumference than other plums, though in flavour it is very like them, except that it is a little sharper. Seleucus, in his Dictionary, says that 34. There is another fruit, called Cherries.—Theophrastus says, in his book on Plants, that the Cherry-tree is a tree of a peculiar character, and of large size, for it grows to a height of four-and-twenty cubits, 35. Asclepiades of Myrlea speaks of a tree which he calls the Ground-cherry, and says, "In the land of the Bithynians there is found the ground-cherry, the root of which is not large, nor is the tree, but like a rose-bush; in all other respects the fruit is like the common cherry; but it makes those who eat much of it feel heavy, as wine does, and it gives them head-aches." These are the words of Asclepiades. And it appears to me that he is speaking of the arbutus. For And planted by no hand, the arbutus Makes red the sunny hills. Theopompus says— The myrtle berries and red arbutus. Crates says— Beauteous the breast of tender maid, As arbutus or apples red. And Amphis— Mulberries you see, my friend, are found On the tree which we know as the mulberry; So the oak bears the acorn round, And the arbutus shines with its full berry. And Theophrastus tells us, "The ??a??? (as he calls it) is the tree which bears the arbutus berry." There is question about the "Agen," a satyric drama, whether it was composed by Python, (and if by him whether he was a native of Catana or of Byzantium,) or by the king Alexander himself. Then Laurentius says—"You, O Greeks, lay claim to a good many things, as either having given the names to them, or having been the original discoverers of them. But you do not know that Lucullus, the Roman general, who subdued Mithridates and Tigranes, was the first man who introduced this plant into Italy from Cerasus, a city of Pontus; and he it was who gave the fruit the Latin name of Cerasus, cherry, after the name of the city, as our historians relate." Then Daphnis answers—"But there was a very celebrated man, Diphilus of Siphnos, many years more ancient than Lucullus, for he was born in the time of king Lysimachus, (who was one of the successors of Alexander,) and he speaks of cherries, saying, 'Cherries are good for the stomach, and juicy, but not very nutritious; if taken after drinking cold water they are especially wholesome; but the red and the Milesian are the best kinds, and are diuretic.'" 36. There is a fruit usually called the s???????, which the people of Alexandria call the ????, in which they differ from every one else; but it has no connexion with the Egyptian His heart was softer than a mulberry. And in his "Cretan Women" he says of the brier— As the full branch to earth is weigh'd With mulberries, white and black and red. And Sophocles has the lines— First you shall see the full white ear of corn, And then the large round rosy mulberry. And Nicander in his Georgics says that it is the first of all fruits to appear; and he calls the tree which bears it ???a, as also do the Alexandrians— The mulberry-tree, in which the young delight, Brown autumn's harbinger. 37. Phanias of Eresus, the pupil of Aristotle, calls the fruit of the wild sycamine ????, or mulberry, being a fruit of the greatest sweetness and delicacy when it is ripe. And he writes thus: "The mulberry is a briery sort of tree, 38. With respect to the word ????a, the Attic writers and all other prose writers call nearly all berries by the generic name of ????a, nuts. And Epicharmus calls the almond "the nut," by way of distinction, as we do, saying— We eat roast nuts, that is, almonds. Philyllius says— Eggs, nuts, almonds. And Heracleon the Ephesian writes—"They called almonds ????a, and chestnuts, which we now call ?ast??e?a." The tree itself is called ????a by Sophocles, who says— (????a?,) nut-trees and ash-trees. And Eubulus speaks of Beeches, nut-trees, Carystian nuts. There are some kinds of nuts, too, which are called ?st??a. 39. With respect to Almonds.—The Naxian almonds are mentioned by the ancient writers; and those in the island of Naxos are superior to all others, as I am well persuaded. Phrynichus says— He knock'd out all my grinders, so that now A Naxian almond I can hardly crack. The almonds in the island of Cyprus also are very excellent, and in comparison of those which come from other quarters, they are very long, and slightly bent at the end. And Seleucus in his Dictionary says, that the LacedÆmonians call soft nuts ??????. And the Servians give that name to sweet nuts. But Arnexias says that it is the almond which is called ??????. We may add, there is nothing which is a greater provocative of drinking than almonds when eaten before meals. Eupolis says in his Taxiarchs— For there was a vine called the Naxian vine. Herodian of Alexandria says, that almonds derive the name of ???da?a?, because beneath their green bark they have many ???a?, or lacerations. Philemon says somewhere or other— You, like an ass, come to the husks of the dessert; and Nicander, in the second book of his Georgics, says— Beech-trees, the ornament of Pan. We also find the word ???da??? in the neuter gender. Diphilus says— "Sweetmeats, myrtle-berries, cheese-cakes, almonds," using the neuter ???da?a. 40. Now with respect to the pronunciation and accent of the word ???d???, Pamphilus thinks that there ought to be a grave accent when it means the fruit, as it is in the case of ???da???. But he wants to circumflex the word when it means the tree, thus, ???da?? like ??d?. And Archilochus says— The lovely flower of the rose-tree (??d??). But Aristarchus marks the word, whether it means the fruit or the tree, with an acute accent indifferently; while Philoxenus would circumflex the word in either sense. Eupolis says— You'll ruin me, I swear it by the almond. Aristophanes says—
And Phrynichus says— The almond is a good cure for a cough. And others speak of almonds as beautiful. But Tryphon in his book on Attic Prosody accents ???d???, when meaning Pamphilus in his Dictionary says that the ?????at?? is called the nut-cracker by the LacedÆmonians, when they mean the almond-cracker; for the LacedÆmonians call almonds ???????. 41. Nicander mentions also nuts of Pontus, which some writers call ??p?a; while Hermonax and Timachidas, in the Dictionary, say that the acorn of Jupiter, or walnut, is what is called the nut of Pontus. But Heraclides of Tarentum asks, "Whether sweetmeats ought to be put on the table before supper, as is done in some parts of Asia and Greece; or whether they ought to be brought on after supper is over." If it is decided that they are to be brought on at the end of supper, then it follows, that when a great deal of food has already been put into the stomach and bowels, the nuts which are eaten afterwards as provocatives of drinking, get entangled with the rest of the food, and produce flatulence, and also cause what has been eaten to turn on the stomach, because it is followed by what is by nature unmanageable and indigestible; and it is from such food that indigestions and attacks of diarrhoea arise. 42. Diocles asserts that almonds are nutritious and good for the stomach, and that they have a heating effect because they contain something like millet; but green almonds are less likely to have an injurious effect than dry ones; and almonds soaked in water have such an effect less than those which are not soaked; and when toasted less than when raw. But walnuts, which are also called nuts of Heraclea, and acorns of Jupiter, are not indeed so nutritious as almonds, but still they have something like millet in them, and something apt to rise to the surface; so, if they are eaten in any quantity they make the head feel heavy; they, however, are less likely to produce injurious effects when green than when dry. Persian nuts too are as apt to produce headaches as the acorns of Jupiter; but they are more nutritious, though they make the throat and mouth feel rough; but when they are roasted they are less injurious, and when eaten with honey, they are the most digestible of all nuts. The broad Persian nuts Diphilus of Siphnos says—"There is a nut called the Royal nut, which causes severe headaches, and keeps rising in the stomach; and there are two sorts of them, one of which, that which is tender and white, is the more juicy and the better; but that which is roasted in ovens is not nutritious. Almonds have a tendency to make people thin, and are diuretic and cathartic, and far from nutritious; and the dry ones are far more apt to produce flatulence and are far more indigestible than the green ones, which do not give much juice, and which are not very nutritious; but those which are tender, and full, and white, being like milk, are more full of wholesome juice. And the Thasian and Cyprian nuts, being tender, are far more easily digested than dry ones. The nuts of Pontus are apt to produce headaches, but still they are not so indigestible as the Royal nuts." 43. Moreover, Mnesitheus the Athenian, in his book on Comestibles, says, "The digestion of Euboean nuts or chestnuts (for they are called by both names) is very difficult for the stomach, and is attended with a great deal of flatulence. And they are apt to thicken the juice, and to make people fat, unless their constitution is strong enough to neutralise them. But almonds, and likewise the nuts of Heraclea, and the Persian nuts, and all others of the same sort, are still worse than these: and it is desirable to touch absolutely none whatever of these things unless they are first cooked by fire; with the exception of, perhaps, the green almonds. But one should boil some of them, and roast others; for some of them are of an oily nature, as the dry almonds and the acorns of Jupiter; but some are hard and harsh, as the nuts of the But Diphilus calls chestnuts also Sardinian acorns, saying that they are very nutritious, and full of excellent juice; but not very easy of digestion, because they remain a long time in the stomach; that, however, when they are roasted they are less nutritious, but more digestible; and that when boiled they are less apt to produce flatulence than the others, and more nutritious. It is easily peel'd, and the Euboeans Call it a nut, but some people have call'd it an acorn, says Nicander the Colophonian, in his Georgics. But Agelochus calls chestnuts ??ta, and says, "Where the Sinopean nuts are produced the natives call the trees which produce them ??ta." 44. With respect to Vetches.—Crobylus says— They took a green vetch, And toss'd it empty, as if playing cottabus. These are the sweetmeats of the wretched monkey. And Homer says— Black beans spring up, or vetches. Xenophanes the Colophonian says, in his Parodies— These are what one should talk of near the fire, In winter season, on soft couch reclined, After a plenteous meal, drinking rich wine, And eating vetches. "Who are you? How old are you, my friend? How many years old were you when the Mede came?" And Sappho says— Golden vetches on the sea-shore grew. But Theophrastus, in his book on Plants, calls some kinds of vetches ??e???. And Sophilus says— This maiden's sire is far the greatest man, A regular ??e??? vetch. And PhÆnias says, in his book about Plants,—"While they are green and tender, the bean and vetch take the place of My husband is a poor old man, and I Am an old woman, and I have a daughter And a young son, And this good girl besides—we're five in all— And three of them are now at supper, And we two who here remain share with them A little maize; and when we have nothing To eat, we utter a wail unsuited to the lyre. And as we never have any meat for dinner, Our countenance is become pale. These are the parts, And this is the arrangement of our life: Beans, lupins, cabbages, rape, Pulse, morepulse, mastnuts, onions, Grasshoppers, vetches, wild pears, And that which was given by my mother As an object of devout care, the fig, The great invention of the Phrygian fig. Pherecrates says— You must at once take care and make the vetches tender. And in another place he says— He was choked eating roasted vetches. And Diphilus says—"Vetches are very indigestible, create moisture, they are also diuretic, and apt to cause flatulence." And according to Diocles, they produce a sort of fermentation in the body. The white vetches are better than the black; and so also are the yellow or box-coloured. And the Milesian are better than those called ??e???; and the green are better than the dry, and those which have been soaked are better than those which have not been. The discoverer of the vetch is said to have been Neptune. 45. With respect to Lupins. Alexis says— A curse upon the man; Let him not come near me, who eats lupins in season, And then leaves the husks and shells in the vestibule. Why was he not choked while eating them? I know, I know most certainly, that CleÆnetus the tragedian Did not eat them. For CleÆnetus Never threw away the husk of a single vegetable, So exceedingly economical is that man. And Lycophron of Chalcis, in a satiric drama which he wrote against Menedemus the philosopher, for the purpose of turning The lupin, common to all the people, in great plenty Danced upon the board, the companion of poor couches. And Diphilus says— There is no business more mischievous or degrading Than that of the pander. I would rather walk along the streets selling Roses, and radishes, and lupin-beans, and press'd olives, And anything else in the world, rather than give encouragement To such a miserable trade. And you may observe, that he then uses the expression ?e????a??, lupin-beans, as they are called even now. Polemo says, that the LacedÆmonians call lupins ??s??a?de?. And Theophrastus, in his book about The Causes of Plants, tells us that the lupin, and the bitter vetch, and the common vetch, are the only kinds of green vegetable which do not produce animal life, because of their harshness and bitterness. But the vetch, says he, turns black as it decays. He says, also, that caterpillars come in vetches, and it is in the fourth book of the same treatise that he states this. Diphilus the Siphnian writer says that lupins are very apt to create moisture, and are very nutritious, especially those kinds which are rendered sweet by being soaked. On which account Zeno the CitiÆan, a man of harsh disposition and very apt to get in a passion with his friends, when he had taken a good deal of wine, became sweet-tempered and gentle; and when people asked him what produced this difference in his disposition, he said, that he was subject to the same influences as lupins: for that they before they were cooked were very bitter; but that when they had been steeped in liquor they were sweet and wholesome. 46. With respect to Kidney Beans.—The LacedÆmonians in those suppers of theirs, which they call ??p?de?, give as sweetmeats, dry figs and beans, and green kidney beans. At least this is the statement of Polemo; and Epicharmus says— Roast some kidney beans quickly, for Bacchus is fond of them. And Demetrius says— A fig, or kidney bean, or some such thing. Cuttle-fish, and olives fallen from the tree. And these the Romans call dryptÆ. But Diphilus the Siphnian writer says that olives contain very little nourishment, and are apt to give headaches; and that the black ones are still worse for the stomach, and make the head feel heavy; but that those which we call ?????de?, that is to say, preserved in pickle, are better for the stomach, and give strength to the bowels. But that the black when crushed are better for the stomach. Aristophanes too makes mention of crushed olives in "The Islands," saying— Bring some crushed olives; and in another place he says— Crush'd olives and pickled olives are not the same thing; and a few lines after— For it is better that they should be crush'd than pickled. And Archestratus says, in his Gastronomy— Let wrinkled olives, fallen from the tree, Be placed before you. And Hermippus says— Be sure that for the future you remember The ever-glorious Marathon for good, When you do all from time to time add ??a??? (that is to say, fennel) to your pickled olives. And Philemon says—"The inferior olives are called p?t???de?, and the dark-coloured are called stef???de?." And Callimachus, in his "Hecale," gives a regular catalogue of the different kinds of olive— Ge??????? and p?t????, and the white olive, which does not Become ripe till autumn, which is to float in wine. And according to Didymus, they called both olives and figs which had fallen to the ground of their own accord, ?e???????. Besides, without mentioning the name "olive," the fruit itself was called by that name d??pet??, without any explanatory addition. Teleclides says— He urged me to remain, and eat with him Some d??pete??, and some maize, and have a chat with him. But the Athenians called bruised olives st?f??a; and what we call st?f??a they called ??tea, that is to say, the dregs 48. With respect to Radishes.—The Greek name ?afa??? is derived from ??d??? fa??es?a?, because they quickly appear above ground; and in the plural the Attic writers either shorten or lengthen the penultima at pleasure. Cratinus writes— ?a?? ?afa??s? d??e?, it is like radishes, but not like other vegetables; and Eupolis, on the other hand, says— ?afa??de? ?p??t??, unwashed radishes and cuttle-fish. For the word ?p??t??, unwashed, must clearly refer to the radishes, and not to the cuttle-fish; as is shown by Antiphanes, in whom we find these lines:— To eat ducks, and honeycombs of wild bees, and eggs, And cheese-cakes, and unwash'd radishes, And rape, and oatmeal-groats, and honey. So that radishes appear to have been particularly called unwashed radishes; being probably the same as those called Thasian. Pherecrates says— There one may have the unwash'd radish, and the warm Bath, and closely stewed pickles, and nuts. And Plato, in his Hyperbolus, says, using the diminutive termination, f?????? ? ?afa??d???, "a leaflet, or a little radish." But Theophrastes, in his book on Plants, says that there are five kinds of radishes: the Corinthian, the Leiothasian, the CleonÆan, the Amorean, and the Boeotian; and that the Boeotian, which is of a round form, is the sweetest. And he says that, as a general rule, those the leaves of which are smooth, are the sweetest. But Callias used the form ??fa??? for ??fa???; at all events, when discussing the antiquity of comedy, he says, "Broth, and sausages, and radishes (??fa???), and fallen olives, and cheese-cakes." And indeed that he meant the same as what we call ?afa??de?, is plainly shown by Aristophanes, who in the DanaÏdes alludes to such old forms, and says— And then the chorus used to dance, Clad in worsted-work and fine clothes; And bearing under their arms ribs of beef, And sausages, and radishes. And the radish is a very economical kind of food. Amphis says— When it is in his power, O Apollo, to buy genuine fish, Prefers buying radishes, is downright mad! 49. With respect to Pine-cones.—Mnesitheus, the Athenian physician, in his book on Comestibles, calls the husks of the pine-cones ?st?a??de?, and in another place he calls them ?????. But Diocles of Carystus calls them p?tÜ??a ????a, nuts of the pine-tree. And Alexander the Myndian calls them p?t?????? ??????. And Theophrastus calls the tree pe???, and the fruit ?????. But Hippocrates, in his book on Barley-water,—(one half of which is considered spurious by everybody, and some people reckon the whole so,)—calls the fruit ????a???; but most people call it p????e?: as Herodotus does, in speaking of the Pontic nut. For he says, "And this has p????a (a kernel), when it becomes ripe." But Diphilus the Siphnian says, "Pine-cones" (which he calls st??????) "are very nutritious, and have a tendency to soften the arteries, and to relieve the chest, because they have some resinous qualities contained in them." While Mnesitheus says that they fill the body with fat, and are very free from all hindrances to the digestion; and, moreover, that they are diuretic, and that they are free from all astringent tendencies. 50. Now with respect to Eggs.—Anaxagoras, in his book on Natural Philosophy, says that what is called the milk of the bird is the white which is in the eggs. And Aristophanes says— In the first instance, night brings forth a wind egg. Sappho dissolves the word ??? into a trisyllable, making it ?Ï??, when she says— They say that formerly Leda found an egg. And again she says— Far whiter than an egg: in each case writing ?Ï??. But Epicharmus spelt the word ?ea; for so we find the line written— The eggs of geese and other poultry. And Simonides, in the second book of his Iambics, says— Like the egg of a MÆandrian goose; which he, too, writes ?e??. But Alexandrides lengthens the word into a quadrisyllable, and calls it ??????. And so does Ephippus, when he says— And Alexis, somewhere or other, uses the expression, "hemispheres of eggs." And wind eggs they called ??e?a?a, and also ?p????a. They called also the upper chambers of houses which we now call ?pe????, ???; and accordingly Clearchus says, in his "Erotics," that Helen, from having been born and brought up in a chamber of this sort, got the character, with a great many people, of having been born of an egg (???). And it was an ignorant statement of Neocles of Crotona, that the egg fell from the moon, from which Helen was born: for that women under the influence of the moon bring forth eggs, and that those who are born from such eggs are fifteen times as large as we are: as Herodotus of Heraclea also asserts. And Ibycus, in the fifth book of his Melodies, says of the MolionidÆ— And they slew the two young Molions, youths alike in face, Borne on white horses; of the same age; and Alike, too, in all their limbs, for both were born On one day, from one single silver egg. And Ephippus says— Cakes made of sesame and honey, sweetmeats, Cheese-cakes, and cream-cakes, and a hecatomb Of new-laid eggs, were all devour'd by us. And Nicomachus makes mention of such eggs— For when my father had left me a very little property, I scraped it so, and got the kernel out of it In a few months, as if I had been a boy sucking an egg. And Eriphus makes mention of goose's eggs— Just see how white and how large these eggs are; These must be goose eggs, as far as I can see. And he says, that it was eggs like this which were laid by Leda. But EpÆnetus and Heraclides the Syracusan, in their book on Cookery, say that the best of all eggs are peacock's eggs; and that the next best are those of the foxgoose; and the third best are those of common poultry. 51. Now let us speak of provocatives to appetite, called ???p?a.—When they were brought round by the butler, Ulpian said, "Does the word p??p?a occur in any ancient author in the sense in which we use it now?" and when every one joined in the question, "I will tell you," said AthenÆus; "Phylarchus the Athenian, (though some called 52. With respect to Mallows, Hesiod says— Nor do men know how great may be the good Derived from asphodel and mallow food. ?a???? is the Attic name for mallow. But I, says AthenÆus, have found in many of the copies of the Minos of Antiphanes the word spelt with an ?; for instance, he speaks of men— Eating the root of mallow (??????). And Epicharmus has— I am milder than the mallow (??????). And Phanias says, in his book on Plants—"The seminal portions of the cultivated mallow are called 'the cheese-cake,' as being like a cheese-cake. For those pistils which are like the teeth of a comb have some resemblance to the edge of a cheese-cake; and there is a bosslike centre, like that in the middle of a cheese-cake. And the whole circumference of the rim is like the sea-fish denominated the sea-urchin." But Diphilus the Siphnian makes a statement, that the mallow is full of pleasant and wholesome juice; having a tendency to smooth the arteries, separating from them the harshnesses of the blood by bringing them to the surface. And he adds that the mallow is of great service in irritations of the kidneys and the bladder, and that it is very tolerably digestible and nutritious. And moreover, that the wild mallow is superior to that which grows in a garden. But Hermippus, the follower of Callimachus, in his treatise on the Seven Wise Men, says that mallows are put in what he calls the ?????, that is to say, the preventive against hunger, and into the ?d????, that is, the preventive against thirst; and that it is a very useful ingredient in both. 53. The next thing to be mentioned are Gourds.—Euthydemus, Mnesitheus too says, "All the vegetables and fruits which are easily affected by the action of fire, such as the cucumber, and the gourd, and the quince, and the small quince, and everything else of the same sort, when they are eaten after having been roasted, afford nutriment to the body, in no great quantity indeed, but still such as is pleasant and promotes moisture. However all these vegetables and fruits have a tendency to produce constipation, and they ought to be eaten boiled rather than raw. But the Attic writers call the gourd by no other name but ???????t?. Hermippus says— What a huge head he has; it is as big as a gourd! And Phrynichus, using the diminutive, says— Will you have a little maize (?????) or gourd (???????t???)? That is much more wholesome than a gourd (???????t?) 54. And Epicrates the comic poet writes—
I came without perceiving it on a place Which was exceedingly convenient. Water was given me; and then a servant Entered, and bore a table for my use; On which was laid, not cheese, or tawny olives, Or any dainty side-dishes and nonsense, Which fill the room with scent, but have no substance; But there was set before me a huge dish Redolent of the Seasons and the joyful Hours— A sort of hemisphere of the whole globe. Everything there was beautiful and good: Fish, goats' flesh, and a scorpion between them; Then there were eggs in half, looking like stars. On them we quickly laid our hands, and then Speaking to me, and giving me a nod, The host began to follow our example; So we'd a race, and never did I stop Till the whole dish was empty as a sieve. 56. With respect to Mushrooms.—Aristias says The stony soil produced no mushrooms. And Poliochus has the following passage— Each of us twice a day received to eat Some small dark maize well winnow'd from the chaff, And carefully ground; and also some small figs. Meantime some of the party would begin And roast some mushrooms; and perhaps would catch Some delicate snails if 'twas a dewy morning, And vegetables which spontaneous grew. Then, too, we'd pounded olives; also wine Of no great strength, and no very famous vintage. And Antiphanes says— Our supper is but maize well fenced round With chaff, so as not to o'erstep the bounds Of well-devised economy. An onion, A few side-dishes, and a sow-thistle, A mushroom, or what wild and tasteless roots The place affords us in our poverty. Such is our life, not much exposed to fevers; For no one, when there's meat, will eat of thyme, Not even the pupils of Pythagoras. And a few lines afterwards he goes on— For which of us can know the future, or The fate that shall our various friends befal? Take now these mushrooms and for dinner roast them, Which I've just picked beneath the maple shade. 57. Mushrooms are produced by the earth itself. But there are not many sorts of them which are good to eat; for the greater part of them produce a sensation of choking: on which account Epicharmus, when jesting, said— You will be choked, like those who waste away By eating mushrooms, very heating food. And Nicander, in his Georgics, gives a list of which species are poisonous; and says— Terrible evils oftentimes arise From eating olives, or pomegranates, or from the trees Of maple, or of oak; but worst of all Are the swelling sticky lumps of mushrooms. And he says in another place— Bury a fig-tree trunk deep in the ground, Then cover it with dung, and moisten it With water from an everflowing brook, Then there will grow at bottom harmless mushrooms; Select of them what's good for food, and not Deserving of contempt, and cut the root off. But all the rest of that passage is in a mutilated state. The same Nicander in the same play writes— And there, too, you may roast the mushrooms, Of the kind which we call ????ta?. And Ephippus says— That I may choke you as a mushroom would. Eparchides says that Euripides the poet was once staying on a visit at Icarus, and that, when it had happened that a certain woman being with her children in the fields, two of them being full-grown sons and the other being an unmarried daughter, eat some poisonous mushrooms, and died with her children in consequence, he made this epigram upon them:— Have you e'er before seen a misery such as this? A mother, a maiden daughter, and two sons, All dying on one day by pitiless fate? Diocles the Carystian, in the first book of his treatise on the Wholesomes, says, "The following things which grow wild should be boiled,—beetroot, mallow, sorrel, nettles, spinach, onions, leeks, orach, and mushrooms. 58. Then there is a plant called sium. And Speusippus, in the second book of his treatise on Things Similar, says that its leaf resembles the marsh parsley; on which account Ptolemy the Second, surnamed Euergetes, who was king of Egypt, insists upon it that the line in Homer ought to be written thus— And around were soft meadows of sium or parsley; for that it is s?a which are usually found in company with parsley, and not ?a (violets). 59. Diphilus says that mushrooms are good for the stomach, and pass easily through the bowels, and are very nutritious, but still that they are not very digestible, and that they are apt to produce flatulence. And that especially those from the island of Ceos have this character. "Many are even poisonous to a fatal degree. But those which seem to be wholesome are those with the smoothest rinds, which are tender and easily crushed: such as grow close to elms and pine-trees. But those which are unwholesome are of a dark colour, or livid, or covered with hard coats; and those too which get hard after being boiled and placed on the table; for such are deadly to eat. But the best remedy for them when eaten unawares is drinking honey-water, and fresh mead, and vinegar. And after such a drink the patient should vomit. On which account, too, it is especially desirable to dress mushrooms with vinegar, or honey and vinegar, or honey, or salt: for by these means their choking properties are taken away. But Theophrastus, in his treatise about Plants, writes thus—"But plants of this kind grow both under the ground and on the ground, like those things which some people call fungi, which grow in company with mushrooms; for they too grow without having any roots; but the real mushrooms have, as the beginning by which they adhere to the ground, a stalk of some length, and they put forth fibres from that stalk." He 60. Now with respect to Truffles.—They too spring of their own accord out of the ground; especially in sandy places. And Theophrastus says of them—"The truffle, which some people call the geranium, and all other such plants which grow beneath the earth." And in another place he says—"The generation and production of these things which seed beneath the earth; as, for instance, of the truffle, and of a plant which grows around Cyrene, which they call misy. And it appears to be exceedingly sweet, and to have a smell like that of meat; and so, too, has a plant called itum, which grows in Thrace. And a peculiarity is mentioned as incidental to these things; for men say that they appear when there is heavy rain in autumn and violent thunder; especially when there is thunder, as that is a more stimulating cause of them: however, they do not last more than a year, as they are only annuals; they are in the greatest perfection in the spring, when they are most plentiful. Not but what there are people who believe that they are or can be raised from seed. At all events, they say that they never appeared on the shore of the MitylenÆans, until after a heavy shower some seed was brought from TiarÆ; and that is the place where they are in the greatest numbers. But they are principally found on the sea-shore, and wherever the ground is sandy; and that is the character of the place called TiarÆ. They are also found near Lampsacus, and also in Acarnania, and Alopeconnesus, and in the district of the Eleans. Lynceus the Samian says—"The sea produces nettles, and the land produces truffles;" and Matron, the man who wrote parodies, says in his "Supper"— And he brought oysters, the truffles of Thetis the Nereid. 61. With respect to Nettles—??a??f? is the name given by the Attic writers to a plant which is herbaceous and which produces itching. Aristophanes says, in his PhoenissÆ, "that pot-herbs were the first things which grew out of the earth; and after them the rough stinging-nettles." 62. The next thing to be considered is Asparagus—which is divided into mountain asparagus and marsh asparagus; the best kinds of which are not raised from seed; but they are remedies for every kind of internal disorder. But those which are raised from seed grow to an immense size. And they say that in Libya, among the GÆtuli, they grow of the thickness of a Cyprian reed, and twelve feet long; but that on the mountain land and on land near the sea they grow to the thickness of large canes, and twenty cubits long. But Cratinus writes the word, not ?sp??a???, but ?sf??a???, with a f. And Theopompus says— And then seeing the aspharagus in a thicket. And Ameipsias says— No squills, no aspharagus, no branches of bay-tree. But Diphilus says, that of all greens, that sort of asparagus which is especially called the bursting asparagus, is better for the stomach, and is more easily digested; but that it is not very good for the eyes: and it is harsh-flavoured and diuretic, and injurious to the kidneys and bladder. But it is the Athenians who give it the name of bursting; and they also give the flowering cabbage, or cauliflower, the same name. Sophocles says, in The Huntsmen— Then it puts forth a stalk, and never ceases The germination; The asparagus was shining; the pale vetches had faded. And Aristophon says—"Capers, pennyroyal, thyme, asparagus, garlic; radishes, sage, and rue." 63. With respect to Snails.—Philyllius says— I am not a grasshopper, nor a snail, O woman. And in a subsequent passage he says— Sprats, tunny fish, and snails, and periwinkles. And Hesiod calls the snail, The hero that carries his house on his back. And Anaxilas says— You are e'en more distrustful than a snail; Who fears to leave even his house behind him. And AchÆus speaks of them, and says— Can such a vapour strange produce The snails, those horned monsters? And an enigma, like a fishing-net, having reference to the snail, is often proposed at banquets, in these terms— What is that spineless bloodless beast of the woods, Who makes his path amid the humid waters. And Aristotle, in the fifth book of his treatise on the Parts of Animals, says—"Snails appear to become pregnant in the autumn and in spring, and they are the only animals with coverings of shells that have ever been detected in union." But Theophrastus says, in his treatise about Animals which live in Holes—"Snails live in holes during the winter, and still more in the summer, on which account they are seen in the greatest numbers during the autumn rains. But their holes in the summer are made upon the ground, and in the trees." There are some snails which are called s?s????. Epicharmus says— Instead of all these animals, they have locusts; But I hate above all things the shell of the sesilus. And Apellas relates that the LacedÆmonians call the snail s?e???. But Apollodorus, in the second book of his Etymologies, says that there are some snails which are called ????s?de?p???, interrupters of banquets. 64. The next vegetable to be mentioned is Onions.—In Whether it's hot, or whether it is dry, Or whether it is something 'tween the two, Are points of more importance than old Troy. But I have not come here to fill myself With cabbages, or benjamin, or other Impious and bitter danties, or with onions. But that which tends the most to vigorous strength And health is food which I delight in chiefly. Meat of beef, boil'd and fresh, and plenty of it, And a large well-filled dish of oxen's feet, Three roasting pigs besides, sprinkled with salt. Alexis, while explaining the efficacy of onions in aphrodisiac matters, says— Pinnas, beetles, snails, muscles, eggs, calves'-feet, And many other philters, may be found More useful still to one who loves his mistress. Xenarchus, in the Butalion, says— A house is ruined which has a master Whose fortune's gone, and whom the evil genius Has struck. And so the once great house of the Pelops Is weak and nerveless. Nor can earth-born onion, Fair Ceres' handmaid, who contracts the neck, Even when boiled, assist to check this evil. Nor e'en the polypus, who swells the veins, Born in dark eddies of the deepest sea, When taken in the net of stern necessity By hungry mortals, fill the broad deep bosom Of the large dish turn'd by the potter's wheel. And Archestratus says— I love not onions, nor yet cabbages, Nor the sweet barberry-tree, nor all the other Dainties and sweetmeats of the second course. 65. Heraclides the Tarentine, in his Banquet, says—"The onion, and the snail, and the egg, and similar things, appear to be productive of seed; not because they are very nutritious, but because their original natures are similar, and because their powers resemble that." And Diphilus says—"Onions are difficult to digest, but very nutritious, and good for the stomach. And, moreover, they are productive of moisture, and cleansing, but they dim the eyes, and excite the amatory propensities. But the proverb says— The onion will do you no good if you have no strength yourself. 66. But the white onions, called ????a?, are fuller of good juice than the common onions; but they are not so good for the stomach, because the white portion of them has a certain thickness in it. Yet they are very tolerably wholesome, because they have a good deal of harshness in them, and because they promote the secretions. And Matron, in his Parodies, mentions the ?????— But sowthistles I will not even name, Plants full of marrow, crown'd on th' heads with thorns; Nor the white onions, minstrels of great Jove, Which his dear Child, incessant rain, has nourish'd Whiter than snow storms, and like meal to view, Which, when they first appeared, my stomach loved. 67. Nicander extols the onions of Megara. But Theophrastus, in the seventh book of his treatise on Plants, says—"In some places the onions are so sweet, that they are eaten raw, as they are in the Tauric Chersonesus." And PhÆnias makes the same statement:—"There is," says he, "a kind of onion which bears wool, according to Theophrastus; and it is produced on the sea-shore. And it has the wool underneath its first coat, so as to be between the outer eatable parts and the inner ones. And from this wool socks and stockings and other articles of clothing are woven." And PhÆnias himself adopts the statement. "But the onion," he continues, "of the Indians is hairy." But concerning the dressing of onions, Philemon says— Now if you want an onion, just consider What great expense it takes to make it good: You must have cheese, and honey, and sesame, Oil, leeks, and vinegar, and assafoetida, To dress it up with; for by itself the onion Is bitter and unpleasant to the taste. But Heraclides the Tarentine, limiting the use of onions at banquets, says—"One must set bounds to much eating, especially of such things as have anything glutinous or sticky about them; as, for instance, eggs, onions, calves' feet, snails, and such things as those: for they remain in the stomach a 68. Thrushes, too, and crowds of other birds, formed part of the dishes in the propomata. Teleclides says— But roasted thrushes with sweet cheese-cakes served Flew of their own accord down the guests' throats. But the Syracusans call thrushes, not ????a?, but ?????a?. Epicharmus says— The thrushes (?????a?) fond of eating the olive. And Aristophanes also, in his "Clouds," mentions the same birds. But Aristotle asserts that there are three kinds of thrushes; the first and largest kind of which is nearly equal to a jay; and they call it also the ixophagus, since it eats the mistletoe. The next kind is like a blackbird in size, and they call them trichades. The third kind is less than either of the before-mentioned sorts, and is called illas, but some call it tylas, as Alexander the Myndian does. And this is a very gregarious species, and builds its nest as the swallow does. There is a short poem, which is attributed to Homer, and which is entitled ?p??????de?, which has received this title from the circumstance of Homer singing it to his children, and receiving thrushes as his reward,—at least, this is the account given by MenÆchmus, in his treatise on Artists. 69. There is a bird called the s??a???, or figpecker. And Alexander the Myndian asserts—"One of the tits is called by some people elÆus, and by others pirias; but when the figs become ripe, it gets the name of sycalis." And there are two species of this bird, the sycalis and the e?a?????f??, or blackcap. Epicharmus spells the word with two ??, and writes s??a???de?. He speaks of beautiful s??a???de?: and in a subsequent passage he says— And herons were there with their long bending necks, And grouse who pick up seed, and beautiful sycallides. And these birds are caught at the season when figs are ripe. And it is more correct to spell the name with only one ?; but Epicharmus put in the second ? because of the metre. 70. There is a kind of finch, too, which was sometimes eaten, of which Eubulus says, ***** When 'twas the Amphidromian festival, When 'tis the custom to toast bits of cheese O' the Chersonesus; and to boil a cabbage, Bedewed with shining oil; and eke to bake The breasts of fat and well-fed lambs; to pluck The feathers from the thrushes, doves and finches; And also to eat cuttle-fish with anchovies, And baskets of rich polypus to collect, And to drink many cups of unmixed wine. 71. Then, too, there are blackbirds.—Nicostratus or PhiletÆrus says—
Antiphanes also reckons starlings among the eatable birds, numerating them in the following list—"Honey, partridges, pigeons, ducks, geese, starlings, jays, rooks, blackbirds, quails, and pullets." You are asking of us for a history of everything, and you do not allow us to say a single thing without calling us to account for it. The word st????????? (a little bird) is found in many other authors, and also in Eubulus. He says, "Take three or four partridges, and three hares, and as many small birds as you can eat, and goldfinches, and parrots, and finches, and nightjars, and whatever other birds of this kind you can come across." 72. Swine's brains, too, was a not uncommon dish. Philosophers used to forbid our eating these, saying that a person who partook of them might as well eat a bear, and would not stick at eating his father's head, or anything else imaginable. And they said, that at all events none of the ancients had ever eaten them, because they were the seat of nearly all sensation. But Apollodorus the Athenian says, that none of the ancients ever even named the brain. And at all events Sophocles, in his TrachiniÆ, where he represents Hercules as throwing Lichas into the sea, does not use the word ????fa???, brains, but says ?e???? ?e???, white marrow; avoiding a word which it was thought ill-omened to use:— His head being burst asunder in the middle, And the blood flows: though he had named all the rest of his limbs plainly enough. And Euripides, introducing Hecuba lamenting for Astyanax, who had been thrown down by the Greeks, says— Unhappy child, how miserably have Your native city's walls produced your death, And dash'd your head in pieces! Fatal towers, Which Phoebus builded! How did your mother oft Cherish those curly locks, and press upon them With never-wearied kisses! now the blood Wells from that wound, where the bones broken gape; But some things are too horrid to be spoken. The lines too which follow these are worth stopping to consider. But Philocles does employ the word ????fa???— He never ceased devouring even the brains (????fa???). And Aristophanes says— I would be content To lose two membranes of the ????fa???. And others, too, use the word. So that it must have been for the sake of the poetical expression that Sophocles said "white marrow." But Euripides not choosing openly to display to sight an unseemly and disgusting object, revealed as much as he chose. And they thought the head sacred, as is plain by their swearing by it; and by their even venerating sneezes, which proceed from the head, as holy. And we, to this day, confirm our arrangements and promises by nodding the head. As the Jupiter of Homer says— Come now, and I will nod my head to you. 73. Now all these things were put into the dishes which were served up as propomata: pepper, green leaves, myrrh, galingal, Egyptian ointment. Antiphanes says— If any one buys pepper and brings it home, They torture him by law like any spy. And in a subsequent passage he says— Now is the time for a man to go and find pepper, And seed of orach, and fruit, and buy it, and bring it here. And Eubulus says— Just take some Cnidian grains, or else some pepper, And pound them up with myrrh, and strew around. And Ophelion says— Pepper from Libya take, and frankincense, And Plato's heaven-inspired book of wisdom. Take the conyza's woolly leaves and stalks, And often cut new pepper up, and add Cardamums fresh from Media. And Theophrastus, in his History of Plants, says—"Pepper indeed is a fruit: and there are two kinds of it; the one is round, like a vetch, having a husk, and is rather red in colour; but the other is oblong, black, and full of seeds like poppy-seeds. But this kind is much stronger than the other. Both kinds are heating, on which account they are used as remedies for, and antidotes against, hemlock." And in his treatise on Suffocation, he writes—"And people who are suffocated are recovered by an infusion of vinegar and pepper, or else by the fruit of the nettle when crushed." But we must recollect that, properly speaking, there is no noun of the neuter gender among the Greeks ending in ?, except ??? alone; for the words p?pe??, and ???, and ???f? are foreign. 74. Let us now speak of oil.—Antiphanes or Alexis makes mention of the Samian Oil, saying— This man you see will be a measurer Of that most white of oils, the Samian oil. Ophelion makes mention also of Carian oil, and says— The man anointed was with Carian oil. Amyntas, in his treatise on Persian Weights and Measures, says—"The mountains there bear turpentine and mastic trees, and Persian nuts, from which they make a great deal of oil for the king. And Ctesias says, that in Carmania there is made an oil which is extracted from thorns, which the king uses. And he, in his third book of his treatise on the Revenues derived from Asia, making a list of all the things which are prepared for the king for his supper, makes no mention of pepper, or of vinegar, which of itself is the very best of all seasonings. Nor does Deinon, in his Persian History; though he does say that ammoniac salt is sent up to the king from Egypt, and water from the Nile. Theophrastus also mentions an oil which he calls ??t????, that is to say, extracted raw, in his treatise on Scents, saying that it is produced from the large coarse olives called phaulian, and from almonds. Amphis also speaks of the oil which is produced amongst the Thurians, as exceedingly fine— Oil from the Thurians comes; from Gela lentils. Your basket will be full of briny pickle. And Pherecrates says— His beard was all besmear'd with pickle juice. And Sophocles, in his Triptolemus, says— Eating this briny season'd pickle. And Plato the comic writer says— These men will choke me, steeping me in putrid pickle. But the word ?????, pickle, is a masculine noun. As Æschylus proves, when he says ?a? t?? ?????? ?????. 76. Vinegar too was much used by the ancients, and this is the only seasoning to which the Attics give the name of ?d??, as if it were akin to ?d??, sweet. And Chrysippus the philosopher says, that the best vinegar is the Egyptian and the Cnidian. But Aristophanes, in his Plutus, says— Sprinkling it o'er with Sphettian vinegar. Didymus explaining this verse says, "Perhaps he says Sphettian because the Sphettians are sour-tempered people." And somewhere or other he mentions vinegar from CleonÆ, as being most excellent, saying, "And at CleonÆ there are manufactories of vinegar." We find also in Diphilus—
And Philonides says— Their seasonings have not vinegar sufficient. But Heraclides the Tarentine, in his Symposium, says, "Vinegar has a tendency to make the exterior parts coagulate, and it affects the strings within the stomach in a very similar manner; but any parts which are tumid it dissolves, because forsooth different humours are mixed up in us." And Alexis used to admire above all others the Decelean vinegar, and says— You have compell'd me to bring forth from thence Four half-pint measures full of vinegar From Decelea, and now drag me through The middle of the forum. 77. Seasonings are mentioned even by Sophocles. In his PhÆacians we find the expression, And seasoning for food. And in Æschylus too we read— You are steeping the seasonings. And Theopompus says—"Many bushels of seasonings, and many sacks and bags of books, and of all other things which may be useful for life." In Sophocles too the expression is found— I like a cook will cleverly season .... And Cratinus says in the Glaucus— It is not every one who can season, skilfully. And Eupolis speaks of Very bad vinegar seasoned in an expensive way. And Antiphanes, in his Leucas, gives the following catalogue of seasonings:— Dried grapes, and salt, and eke new wine Newly boiled down, and assafoetida, And cheese, and thyme, and sesame, And nitre too, and cummin seed, And sumach, honey, and marjoram, And herbs, and vinegar and oil And sauce of onions, mustard and capers mix'd, And parsley, capers too, and eggs, And lime, and cardamums, and th' acid juice Which comes from the green fig-tree, besides lard And eggs and honey and flour wrapp'd in fig-leaves, And all compounded in one savoury forcemeat. The ancients were well acquainted with the Ethiopian cardamum. We must take notice that they used the words ???? and ????a??? as masculine nouns. And so Anaxandrides says— Cutting asparagus and squills and marjoram, (??) Which gives the pickle an aristocratic taste, When duly mixed (???e??) with coriander seed. But in a hurried manner in his hand He hides the marjoram (t?? ????a???). Plato however, or Cantharus, used it as feminine, saying— She from Arcadia brought The harshly-tasted (t?? d???t?t??) marjoram. Epicharmus and Ameipsias both use it as a neuter noun; but Nicander, in his Melissurgica, uses ???? as masculine. 78. Cratinus used the word p?p??e?, which properly means merely full ripe, in speaking of the cucumbers which give seed, in his Ulysses— Tell me, O wisest son of old Laertes, Have you e'er seen a friend of yours in Paros Buy a large cucumber that's run to seed? And Plato says in his Laius— Do you not see That Meleager, son of mighty Glaucon, .... Goes about every where like a stupid cuckoo, With legs like the seedless p?p?? cucumber? And Anaxilas says— His ankles swell'd Larger than e'en a p?p?? cucumber. And Theopompus says of a woman— She was to me More tender than a p?p?? cucumber. PhÆnias says, "Both the s????? and the p?p?? are tender to eat, with the stem on which they grow; however the seed is not to be eaten, but the outside only, when they are fully ripe; but the gourd called ???????t?, when raw is not eatable, but is very good either boiled or roasted. And Diocles the Carystian, in the first book of his treatise on Wholesome Things, says that "of wild vegetables the following should be boiled before eating: the lettuce (the best kind of which is the black); the cardamum; mustard from the Adriatic; onions (the best kinds are the Ascalonian, and that called getian); garlic, that other kind of garlic called physinga, the p?p?? cucumber, and the poppy." And a little afterwards he says, "The p?p?? cucumber is better for the stomach and more digestible; though every cucumber when boiled is tender, never gives any pain, and is diuretic; but that kind called p?p?? when boiled in mead has very aperient 79. The lettuce was in great request as an article of food. Its name is ???da?, but the Attics call it ???da????. Epicharmus says— But Strattis calls lettuces ???da????de?, and says— The leek-destroying grubs, which go Throughout the leafy gardens On fifty feet, and leave their trace, Gnawing all herbs and vegetables; Leading the dances of the long-tailed satyrs Amid the petals of the verdant herbs, And of the juicy lettuces (???da????de?), And of the fragrant parsley. And Theophrastus says, "Of lettuce (???da????) the white is the sweeter and the more tender: there are three kinds; there is the lettuce with the broad stalk, and the lettuce with the round stalk, and in the third place there is the LacedÆmonian lettuce—its leaf is like that of a thistle, but it grows up straight and tall, and it never sends up any side shoots from the main stalk. But some plants of the broad kind are so very broad in the stalk that some people even use them for doors to their gardens. But when the stalks are cut, then those which shoot again are the sweetest of any." 80. But Nicander the Colophonian, in the second part of his Dictionary, says that the lettuce is called ?????? by the Cyprians. And it was towards a plant of this kind that Adonis was flying when he was slain by the boar. Amphis in his Ialemus says— Curse upon all these lettuces (???d????a?)! For if a man not threescore years should eat them, And then betake himself to see his mistress, He'll toss the whole night through, and won't be equal To her expectations or his own. And Callimachus says that Venus hid Adonis under a lettuce, which is an allegorical statement of the poet's, intended to Do not put lettuces before me, wife, Upon the table; or the blame is yours. For once upon a time, as goes the tale, Venus conceal'd the sadly slain Adonis Beneath the shade of this same vegetable; So that it is the food of dead men, or of those Who scarcely are superior to the dead. Cratinus also says that Venus when in love with Phaon hid him also in the leaves of the lettuce: but the younger Marsyas says that she hid him amid the grass of barley. Pamphilus in his book on Languages says, that Hipponax called the lettuce tet?a????: but Clitarchus says that it is the Phrygians who give it this name. Ibycus the Pythagorean says that the lettuce is at its first beginning a plant with a broad leaf, smooth, without any stalk, and is called by the Pythagoreans the eunuch, and by the women ?st?t??; for that it makes the men diuretic and powerless for the calls of love: but it is exceedingly pleasant to the taste. 81. Diphilus says that "the stalk of the lettuce is exceedingly nutritious, and more difficult of digestion than the leaves; but that the leaves are more apt to produce flatulence, and are still more nutritious, and have a greater tendency to promote the secretions. And as a general rule the lettuce is good for the stomach, cooling and wholesome for the bowels, soporific, full of pleasant and wholesome juice, and certainly has a great tendency to make men indifferent to love. But the softer lettuce is still better for the stomach, and still more soporific; while that which is harder and drier is both less good for the stomach and less wholesome for the bowels; that, however, is also soporific. But the black lettuce is more cooling, and is good for the bowels; and summer lettuce is full of wholesome juice, and more nutritious; but that which is in season at the end of autumn is not nutritious, and has no juice. And the stalk of the lettuce appears to be a remedy against thirst." And the lettuce when boiled like asparagus in a dish, if we adopt the statement of Glaucias, is superior to all other boiled vegetables. Among some of the other nations Theophrastus says that 82. Artichokes were often eaten. And Sophocles, in his Colchian Women, calls an artichoke ?????a, but in his Phoenix he writes the word ???a???, saying— The artichoke fills every field with its thorn. But HecatÆus the Milesian, in his Description of Asia, at least if the book under this title is a genuine work of that author, (for Callimachus attributes it to Nesiotas;) however, whoever it was who wrote the book speaks in these terms—"Around the sea which is called the Hyrcanian sea there are mountains lofty and rough with woods, and on the mountains there is the prickly artichoke." And immediately afterwards he subjoins—"Of the Parthian tribes the Chorasmians dwell towards the rising sun, having a territory partly champaign and partly mountainous. And in the mountains there are wild trees; the prickly artichoke, the willow, the tamarisk." He says moreover that the artichoke grows near the river Indus. And Scylax, or Polemo, writes, "that that land is well watered with fountains and with canals, and on the mountains there grow artichokes and many other plants." And immediately afterwards he adds, "From that point a mountain stretches on both sides of the river Indus, very lofty, and very thickly overgrown with wild wood and the prickly artichoke." But Didymus the grammarian, explaining what is meant by Sophocles when he speaks of the prickly artichoke (which he calls ???a???), says, "Perhaps he means the dog-brier, because that plant is prickly and rough; for the Pythian priestess did call that plant a wooden bitch. And the Locrian, after he had been ordered by an oracle to build a city in that place in which he was bitten by a wooden bitch, having had his leg scratched by a dog-brier, built the city in the place 83. PhÆnias, in the fifth book of his treatise on Plants, speaks of one which he calls the Sicilian cactus, a very prickly plant. As also does Theophrastus, in his sixth book about Plants, who says, "But the plant which is called the cactus exists only in Sicily, and is not found in Greece: and it sends forth stalks close to the ground, just above the root. And the stalks are the things which are called cacti: and they are eatable as soon as they are peeled, and rather bitter; and they preserve them in brine. But there is a second kind, which sends up a straight stalk, which they call pt?????; and that also is eatable. The shell of the fruit, as soon as the outer soft parts have been taken away, is like the inside of a date: that also is eatable; and the name of that is ?s???????." But who is there who would not place such belief in these assertions as to say confidently that this cactus is the same as that plant which is called by the Romans carduus, or thistle; as the Romans are at no great distance from Sicily, and as it is evidently the same plant which the Greeks call ?????a, or the artichoke? For if you merely change two letters, ???d?? and ???t?? will be the same word. And Epicharmus also shows us plainly this, when he puts down the cactus in his catalogue of eatable vegetables; in this way—"The poppy, fennel, and the rough cactus; now one can eat of the other vegetables when dressed with milk, if he bruises them and serves them up with rich sauce, but by themselves they are not worth much." And in a subsequent passage he says—"Lettuces, pines, squills, radishes, cacti." And again he says—"A man came from the country, bringing fennel, and cacti, and lavender, and sorrel, and chicory, and thistles, and ferns, and the cactus, and dractylus, and otostyllus, and scolium, and seni, and onopordus." And Philetas the Coan poet says— A fawn about to die would make a noise, Fearing the venom of the thorny cactus. 84. And, indeed, Sopater the Paphian, who was born in the time of Alexander the son of Philip, and who lived even till the time of the second Ptolemy king of Egypt, called the artichoke ???a?a just as we do, as he himself declares in one 85. Now with respect to what is called the Brain of the Palm.—Theophrastus, speaking of the plant of the palm-tree, states, "The manner of cultivating it, and of its propagation from the fruit, is as follows: when one has taken off the upper rind, one comes to a portion in which is what is called the brain." And Xenophon, in the second book of the Anabasis, writes as follows: "There, too, the soldiers first ate the brain of the palm or date-tree. And many of them marvelled at its appearance, and at the peculiarity of its delicious flavour. But it was found to have a great tendency to produce headache; but the date, when the brain was taken out of it, entirely dried up." Nicander says in his Georgics— And at the same time cutting off the branches Loaded with dates they bring away the brain, A dainty greatly fancied by the young. And Diphilus the Siphnian states—"The brains of the dates are filling and nutritious; still they are heavy and not very digestible: they cause thirst, too, and constipation of the stomach." But we, says AthenÆus, O my friend Timocrates, shall appear to keep our brains to the end, if we stop this conversation and the book at this point. 86. Menander says— It is a troublesome thing to fall in with An entire party of none but relations; Where as soon as he has taken his cup in his hand The father first begins the discourse, And stammers out his recommendations: Then after him the mother, in the second place; And then some old aunt gossips and chatters; And then some harsh-voiced old man, The father of the aunt aforesaid; then too Another old woman calls him her darling: And he nods assent to all that is said. 87. And a little afterwards he says— Before the shade they wear a purple cloth, And then this comes after the purple; Being itself neither white nor purple, But a ray of the brilliancy of the woof as it were Of divers colours curiously blended. ***** Antiphanes says: "What do you say? Will you not bring something hither to the door which we may eat? and then I will sit on the ground and eat it as the beggars do: and any one may see me." ***** The same man says in another place— Prepare then A fanner to cool me, a dish, a tripod, a cup, An ewer, a mortar, a pot, and a spoon. ***** About the Ascent of the Nile. 88. Thales the Milesian, one of the seven wise men, says that the overflowing of the Nile arises from the Etesian winds; for that they blow up the river, and that the mouths of the river lie exactly opposite to the point from which they blow; and accordingly that the wind blowing in the opposite direction hinders the flow of the waters; and the waves of the sea, dashing against the mouth of the river, and coming on with a fair wind in the same direction, beat back the river, and in this manner the Nile becomes full to overflowing. But Anaxagoras the natural philosopher says that the fulness of the Nile arises from the snow melting; and so, too, says Danaus, the noble sire of fifty daughters, Leaving the Nile, the fairest stream on earth, Fill'd by the summer of the Æthiop land, The negro's home, when the deep snow does melt, And o'er the land the Sun his chariot drives. And in the "Helen" he says something similar:— These are the beauteous virgin streams of Nile, Which in the place of rain bedew the plain Of Egypt when the white snow melts on th' hills. And Æschylus says— I know its history, and love to praise The race of the Æthiop land, where mighty Nile Rolls down his seven streams the country through, When the spring winds bring down the heavy waters; What time the sun shining along that land Dissolves the mountain snow; and the whole land Of flourishing Egypt, fill'd with th' holy stream, Sends forth the vital ears of corn of Ceres. 89. And Callisthenes the historian argues against what I quoted just now as stated by Anaxagoras and Euripides: and he, too, declares his own opinion,—that as there is much very heavy and continued rain in Æthiopia about the time of the rising of the Dogstar, and from that period till the rising of Arcturus, and as the Etesian winds blow at about the same time, (for these are the winds which he says have the greatest tendency to bring the clouds over Æthiopia,) when the clouds fall upon the mountains in that region, a vast quantity of water bursts forth, in consequence of which the Nile rises. But Democritus says that about the winter solstice there are heavy falls of snow in the countries around the north; but that when the sun changes its course, at the summer solstice, the snow being melted and evaporated by the warmth, clouds are formed, and then the Etesian gales catch hold of them, and drive them towards the south; and when these clouds are all driven together towards Æthiopia and Libya, a mighty rain ensues, and the water from that flows down the mountains and fills the Nile. This, then, is the cause which Democritus alleges for this fulness of the Nile. 90. But Euthymenes the Massiliote says, speaking of his But Œnopides the Chian says, that in winter the sources of the river are dried up, but in the summer they are thawed and flow; and so that for the sake of filling up the previous dryness, the rains from heaven cooperate with * * * * * * * * And on this account the river is smaller in winter and is full in summer. But Herodotus gives an explanation quite contrary to that of the rest of those who have discussed this subject, but agreeing with the explanation of Œnopides; for he says that the stream of the Nile is of such magnitude as always to fill the river; but that the sun, as it makes its journey through Libya in the winter, dries up the river at that time; but that as it has gone off towards the north at the time of the summer solstice, then the river becomes full again, and overflows the plains. Now these are the mouths of the Nile:—towards Arabia, the Pelusiac mouth; towards Libya, the Canopic: and the rest are,—the Bolbitic, the Sebennytic, the Mendesian, the Saitic, and the Opuntic. FOOTNOTES:?????, ? f??e pa?, ???eta? ?a? ????ea. |