Every fragrant portion of a plant can be used for the preparation of an aromatic substance, and therefore for the manufacture of a perfume. Hence we are unable, in the following enumeration of the aromatic vegetable substances, to make any claim to absolute completeness; for every new scientific expedition may acquaint us with hitherto unknown plants from which the finest odors may be obtained. We have said above that we have not yet even fixed in our perfumes all the odors of the known aromatic plants, and therefore there is still a large field open to the progressive manufacturer.
In the following pages we must restrict ourselves to the description of those aromatic vegetable substances which are used in the laboratories of the most advanced and scientific perfumers for the manufacture of odors. At the same time we lay particular stress on the fact that the knowledge of these raw materials is a matter of the greatest importance to the manufacturer of perfumes because it enables him to appreciate the differences, often very minute, between fine and inferior qualities. Every manufacturer who aims at the production of fine goods must make it the rule to use nothing but the best raw materials.
The price of the latter is apparently disproportionately high; for all that, only the most expensive materials should be bought, for it is the only kind that can be used. Let us give but two instances in illustration. We find in the market, grades of vanilla the prices of which are as one to four; the latter is fresh and contains the aromatic substance in large amount; the former is old, dry, and worthless, with an artificial glossy surface and little odor. The differences in the price are still greater in an aromatic substance of animal origin, musk, the cheapest grades of which are altogether artificial and perfumed with a mere trace of genuine musk.
Of course, the same remark applies to the raw materials of animal origin and to the chemical products, all of which should be of the greatest purity obtainable.
The aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery for the extraction of odors are the following.
Allspice.
Latin—Pimenta; French—Piment; German—Piment; Nelkenpfeffer.
This spice consists of the fruit berries, at first green, later black, of the Eugenia Pimenta, indigenous to Central America and the Antilles. It is chiefly used in the manufacture of liqueurs, less in perfumery, though it may be employed as an addition to certain strong odors, particularly that of oil of bay; it serves very nicely for scenting cheap soap.
Anise.
Latin—Pimpinella Anisum; French—Anis; German—Anis.
This well-known plant, which is cultivated in many localities on a large scale, belongs to the Order of UmbelliferÆ. The seeds contain about three per cent of a very aromatic essential oil which finds application in the manufacture of soap and in cheap perfumery; it is chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs. Good anise must have a light green color, an agreeable sweetish odor, and a sharp taste. In order to increase the weight, anise is occasionally moistened with water; such seeds look swollen, are apt to become slimy, and then furnish a less fragrant oil. Anise is not to be confounded with star-anise, which will be mentioned hereafter.
Balm.
Latin—Melissa officinalis; French—Melisse; German—Melissenkraut.
Melissa officinalis, an herbaceous plant with large, beautiful flowers, which grows wild in our woods, contains a very sweet-smelling oil in small quantities. This can be extracted by distillation from the fresh herb, and furnishes very fine perfumes.
Oil of Melissa of the market is, however, usually an East Indian oil, derived from Andropogon citratus. See under Citronella.
Bay (Sweet Bay).
Latin—Laurus nobilis; French—Laurier; German—LorbeerfrÜchte.
The fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which is used less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting soap. Venice is the most important point of export. See the next article.
Bay (West Indian).
Latin—Myrcia acris; French—(Huile de) Bay; German—Bay (-Oel).
The essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree, a native of the West Indies, possesses a very aromatic, refreshing odor somewhat resembling that of allspice. It is known in the market as bay oil or oil of bay. During the last decade or so its use has largely extended, and, while formerly almost unknown on the continent of Europe, has become an important article for the perfumer. An alcoholic distillate, prepared by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from which rum is otherwise obtained, is known as bay-rum, and is used as a pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin. Bay-rum may also be made by dissolving the oil, together with certain other ingredients, in alcohol.
Benzoin.
Latin—Benzoinum; French—Benjoin; German—BenzoËharz.
This gum-resin, which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like odor, comes from a tree belonging to the Order of StyracaceÆ, the Styrax Benzoin, and probably another species of Styrax, indigenous to tropical Asia, especially Siam and Sumatra. The collection of benzoin is very similar to that of pine resin; the bark of the tree is cut open, the exuding juice is allowed to harden on the trunk, and is thus brought into commerce. Benzoin differs according to its origin, the age of the tree, etc., and in commerce a number of sorts (Siam, Penang, Palembang, and Sumatra) are distinguished. As a rule, benzoin comes in lumps ranging in size to that of a child’s head. They are of a light gray color and inclose white, almond-shaped pieces. The finest quality, known as Siam benzoin after its source, usually is in small pieces (Siam benzoin in tears) which are translucent, light yellow to brown externally, but milky white on fracture, and have a strong vanilla odor. Less fine but still very good is Siam benzoin in lumps, consisting of large reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles. All other kinds mentioned above come from the island of Sumatra, in lumps the size of a fist. What was formerly known as Calcutta benzoin formed large friable pieces of a dirty reddish-gray color. Siam as well as Penang benzoin often contains, besides benzoic acid, also cinnamic acid; it is not known why it is not a regular constituent. The worst quality is sold as “benzoin sorts,” consisting of brownish pieces without white spots; they are often mixed with splinters of wood, bast fibres, and fragments of leaves, and can be used only for cheap perfumes.
Good benzoin, besides the qualities named, must have a sweetish and burning sharp taste, it should be very friable, and when heated in a porcelain capsule should emit vapors (benzoic acid) of an acrid taste and a pronounced aromatic odor; it should dissolve completely in strong alcohol. In perfumery, benzoin serves for the preparation of many odors, washes, and the manufacture of benzoic acid. The latter will be further discussed under the head of aromatic substances obtained by means of chemistry.
Bergamot.
Latin—Citrus Bergamia; French—Bergamote; German—BergamottefrÜchte.
The bergamot is the fruit of a tree belonging to the Order of AurantiaceÆ, which is cultivated in Calabria. The tree is unknown in a wild state. The golden-yellow or greenish-yellow fruits, resembling a lemon in shape, have a bitter and at the same time acid pulp; the thin rind contains a very fragrant oil which is used largely in the manufacture of fine perfumery and soaps, and is exported chiefly from Messina and Palermo.
Bitter Almonds.
Latin—Amygdala amara; French—Amandes amÈres; German—Bittere Mandeln.
The well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree (Amygdalus communis, var. amara). There are no definite botanical differences between the sweet and the bitter almond-tree. The only distinct difference is the character of the respective fruits. The aromatic substance obtained from bitter almonds is not present fully formed in the fruits, but results from the chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain; the latter body is absent in sweet almonds.
Cajuput Leaves.
Latin—Folia Cajuputi.
The leaves of Melaleuca Cajuputi, a tree found in the Indian and Malay Archipelago, which have an aromatic odor resembling that of cardamoms. In the Orient the leaves are used as incense and for the extraction of the oil they contain.
Camphor Wood.
Latin—Lignum CamphorÆ; French—Bois de camphre; German—Campherholz.
The wood of the Camphor-tree, native of China and Japan, is exceedingly rich in essential oil, the firm, white, and strong-scented camphor. The latter is usually prepared from the wood at the home of the tree, especially in Formosa and Japan, so that the wood hardly forms an article of commerce and is here enumerated only for completeness’ sake. In China and in Japan, however, it is largely used for the manufacture of cloth-chests, trunks and wardrobes, as these are never invaded by insects.
Caraway Seed.
Latin—Semen Carvi; French—Carvi; German—KÜmmelsamen.
This plant, Carum Carvi, which is largely cultivated in Germany, contains in its seeds from four to seven per cent of essential oil which is extracted by distillation. Genuine caraway seed is brownish-yellow, pointed at both ends, quite glabrous on examination with a lens, and marked with five longitudinal ribs. Caraway is occasionally confounded with cumin seed, from Cuminum Cyminum, which is easily recognized with a lens: the seeds of the latter plant have fourteen longitudinal ribs and are hairy. The use of caraway in perfumery is limited to ordinary goods, but in the manufacture of liqueurs it is largely employed.
Cascarilla Bark.
Latin—Cortex CascarillÆ; French—Cascarille; German—Cascarillarinde.
This is the bark of a West Indian tree, Croton Eluteria, belonging to the Order of EuphorbiaceÆ, native of the Bahamas. It occurs in commerce in the shape of pieces the length and thickness of a finger; externally it is white and fissured, internally of a brown color and resinous. Good qualities should be free from dust and fractured pieces (sifted cascarilla), of a warm aromatic taste, and a very agreeable odor which becomes more marked on being heated. Another variety of cascarilla derived from South Africa, Cascarilla gratissima, has very fragrant leaves which can be used immediately as incense, just as cascarilla in general is employed in perfumery chiefly for fumigating powders and waters.
Cassie.
Latin—Acacia farnesiana; French—Cassie; German—Acacie.
The flowers of Acacia farnesiana (Willd.), one of the true acacias, native of the East Indies, which flourishes farther north than the other varieties, cultivated largely in southern France for the delightful odor which resembles that of violets but is more intense. The flowers are collected and made to yield their odorous principle by one of the methods to be described hereafter. The plant which is generally but falsely called Acacia in this country, viz., Robinia pseudoacacia, likewise bears very fragrant flowers which undoubtedly can be made to yield a perfume by some one of the usual methods; but so far we know of no perfume into which the odor of Robinia flowers enters. Moreover, it is not alone the flowers of Acacia farnesiana which may be utilized for the preparation of the cassie perfume; the black currant, Ribes niger, contains in its flowers an odor closely resembling the former; this is actually used in the preparation of an oil sold under the name of “oil of cassie.” The latter plant flourishes in our northern States and would answer as a substitute for Acacia farnesiana, which cannot stand our northern winters.
Cedar Wood.
Latin—Lignum Cedri; French—Bois de cÈdre; German—Cedernholz.
The wood met with in commerce is derived from the Virginian juniper tree, Juniperus virginiana, which is used in large quantities for inclosing lead pencils. The chips, the offal from this manufacture, can be employed with advantage for the extraction of the essential oil contained therein. Long uniform shavings of this wood are also used for fumigation, and the sawdust for cheap sachet powders. Cedar wood is reddish-brown, fragrant, very soft, and splits easily. In the perfumery industry it usually passes under the name of the “cedar of Lebanon,” although the wood from the last-mentioned tree (Cedrus libanotica) has quite a different agreeable odor, is very firm, reddish-brown, and of a very bitter taste—qualities by which it is readily distinguished from the other.
Cinnamon.
Latin—Cinnamomum; French—Canelle; German—Zimmtrinde.
Cinnamon consists of the bark of the young twigs of the cinnamon-tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, indigenous to Ceylon. Good cinnamon consists of thin, tubular, rolled pieces of bark which are smooth, light brown (darker on fracture), of a pronounced characteristic odor, and a burning and at the same time sweet taste. The most valuable in commerce is that from Ceylon; the thicker bark is less fine.
Chinese cinnamon or cassia (French, Cassie; German, Zimmtcassia) consists of the bark of the cassia-tree, an undetermined species of Cinnamomum indigenous to Southern China; this is grayish-brown and has the general properties of true cinnamon, but it as well as the oil extracted from it has a less fine odor than cinnamon or oil of cinnamon. A very fine kind of Cinnamon has for a number of years past appeared on the market under the name of Saigon cinnamon. It is very rich in oil, and is exported from Cochin-China. Besides the true oils of cinnamon and cassia, other essential oils are met with in commerce under the names of oil of cinnamon flowers and oil of cinnamon leaves, but their odor is not so fine as that of the former. The so-called cinnamon flowers are the unripe fruits of various cinnamon laurels, collected after the fall of the blossoms. They form brownish cones the length of the nail of the little finger, and furnish an essential oil whose odor resembles that of cinnamon.
Citron.
Latin—Fructus Citri; French—Citron; German—CitronenfrÜchte.
The fruit of a tree, Citrus medica, indigenous to northern India, but largely cultivated in the countries situated around the Mediterranean and in other countries. It is cultivated both for the pleasant acid juice of the fruit and for their fragrant rinds. Only the latter are of value for our purposes. It occurs in European commerce under the name of Citronat or citron peel. Good commercial citron peel should be in quarters and as fresh as possible, which is shown by its softness, the yellow color, and the strong odor. Old peel looks shrunken and brownish and has but little pleasant odor.
Citron Flowers.
Latin—Flores Citri; French—Fleurs de citron; German—CitronenblÜthen.
The flowers of the citron-tree (Citrus medica) are white, fragrant, and contain a very aromatic essential oil; but as the oil is always extracted from the fresh flowers, the latter do not form an article of commerce.
Cherrylaurel Leaves.
Latin—Folia Laurocerasi; French—Laurier-cÉrise; German—KirschlorbeerblÄtter.
The leaves of this tree (Prunus Laurocerasus), which is largely cultivated for officinal purposes, furnish an odorous substance completely identical with that contained in bitter almonds, or, rather, formed in them under certain conditions. As the extraction of the odorous substance from bitter almonds is much cheaper, cherry-laurel is but rarely used.
Citronella.
Latin—Andropogon Nardus; French—Citronelle; German—Citronella.
This grass, which, like the oil prepared from it, is called citronella, is a native of northern India, and is largely cultivated in Ceylon, where large quantities are worked for the oil; for this reason the grass itself is seldom met with in commerce. Its odor is somewhat similar to that of the Indian lemon grass, that of verbena, and that of several other aromatic plants, in place of which citronella is frequently employed.
Much confusion exists in much of the current literature regarding the source and synonymy of the Indian grass oils and allied products. The following list contains the most important ones:
1. Andropogon citratus DC.—Lemon Grass. The oil is known as Lemon Grass Oil, Indian Verbena Oil or Indian Melissa Oil, or simply Oil of Verbena or Oil of Melissa.
2. Andropogon laniger Desf.—This is the Juncus odoratus or Herba Schoenanthi of older pharmacy. No oil is prepared from this.
3. Andropogon muricatus Retz.—Cuscus or Vetiver. Source of Oil of Vetiver.
4. Andropogon nardus L.—Citronella. Source of Oil of Citronella.
5. Andropogon Schoenanthus L.—Ginger Grass. The oil is known as Oil of Ginger Grass, Oil of Geranium Grass, Oil of Indian Geranium or simply Oil of Geranium, also Oil of Rose Geranium [“Rose” is here a corruption of the Hindostanee name of the plant, viz., Rusa], Oil of Rusa Grass, Oil of Rusa, Oil of Palmarosa.—The two terms “Oil of Geranium” and “Oil of Rose Geranium” should be abandoned for this oil, to avoid confusion with the “Oil of (Rose) Geranium” obtained from Pelargonium. See under “Geranium.”
Clove.
Latin—Caryophylli; French—Clous de girofle; German—NelkengewÜrz.
This well-known spice comes from a tree, Caryophyllus aromaticus, native of the Moluccas, and largely cultivated at Zanzibar, Pemba, and elsewhere. It consists of the closed buds. The main essential of good quality is the greatest possible freshness, which may be recognized by the cloves being full, heavy, reddish-brown, and of a fatty aspect, and they must contain so much essential oil (about 18 per cent) that when crushed between the fingers the latter should be stained yellowish-brown. Before buying, this test should always be made, and attention paid to the fact whether the whitish dust is present in the wrinkles about the head. We have found in commerce cloves from which the essential oil had been fraudulently extracted with alcohol and hence were worthless; such cloves may be recognized by the faint odor and taste, but especially by the absence of the whitish dust.
Cucumber.
Latin—Cucumis sativus; French—Concombre; German—Gurke.
The well-known fruits of this kitchen-garden plant, though not strictly sweet-scented, possess a peculiar refreshing odor which has found application in perfumery. Certain products belonging under this head require the odor of cucumber, and therefore this plant is to be included among the aromatic plants in a wider sense.
Culilaban Bark.
Latin—Cortex Culilavan; French—Ecorce culilaban; German—Kulilabanrinde.
The bark of Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, a plant indigenous to the Molucca islands, used to occur in commerce in the shape of long, flat pieces of a yellowish-brown color, with an odor like a mixture of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove oils. It is rarely met with now.
Dill.
Latin—Semen Anethi; French—Aneth; German—Dillsamen.
This plant, Anethum graveolens, which is indigenous to the Mediterranean region and southern Russia, contains in all its parts, particularly in the seeds, an oil of a peculiar odor, which is used as a perfume for soap, also in cheap perfumery, and especially as a flavoring for liqueurs.
Elder Flowers.
Latin—Flores Sambuci; French—Sureau; German—HollunderblÜthen.
This bush, Sambucus niger, which grows wild in Europe, bears umbellar flowers which are officinal, but contain besides a pleasant odor which can be extracted from them. The odor of the flowers deteriorates on drying, hence in perfumery only the fresh flowers should be used. The American elder (Sambucus canadensis) could easily be used in place of it.
Fennel (Seed and Herb).
Latin—Foeniculum; French—Fenouil; German—Fenchel.
This plant, Foeniculum vulgare, Order UmbelliferÆ, is largely cultivated in Europe. It contains an essential oil in all its parts, but especially in the seeds. The plant is rarely used in perfumery, but more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs. The herb, dried and comminuted, enters into the composition of some cheap sachets.
Frangipanni (see Plumeria).
Geranium.
Latin—Pelargonium roseum; French—GÉranium; German—Geranium.
This plant, originally indigenous in South Africa, contains in its leaves an essential oil whose odor closely resembles that of roses. At present it is cultivated on a large scale in many parts of France and in Turkey, solely for the purposes of perfumery. This plant would grow freely in our Southern and Middle States, and could be cultivated with advantage for the extraction of its highly valued perfume.
The terms “Oil of Geranium” and “Oil of Rose Geranium” ought to be restricted in commerce to the oil obtained from true geranium (Pelargonium). Unfortunately, they are yet very commonly applied to an East Indian oil obtained from a species of Andropogon (see under Citronella).
Hedyosmum Flowers.
On the Antilles there are a number of bushes belonging to the Genus Hedyosmum, Order ChloranthaceÆ, whose flowers possess a magnificent, truly intoxicating odor. Thus far these odors seem to have been accessible only to English perfumers. The perfumes sold under this name by Continental manufacturers are merely combinations of different odors.
Heliotrope.
Latin—Heliotropium peruvianum; French—HÉliotrope; German—HeliotropenblÜthen.
The flowers of this plant, which flourishes well in all temperate or tropic countries, possess a very pleasant odor, about the preparation of which we shall have more to say hereafter. In Europe only French perfumers have manufactured it; according to the author’s experiments, however, its extraction presents no more difficulty than that of any other plant.
A synthetic, chemical product, known as piperonal, related to vanillin and cumarin, possesses the odor of the heliotrope in a most remarkable degree. It is therefore much used to imitate the latter. In commerce it is known as heliotropin.
Honeysuckle.
Latin—Flores LonicerÆ; French—ChÈvre-feuille; German—- GeisblattblÜthen.
This well-known climbing plant, Lonicera Caprifolium, found in many of our garden bowers, contains an exceedingly fragrant oil in its numerous flowers, from which the author has prepared it. [Some of the American species of honeysuckle would, no doubt, likewise yield an essential oil.] The oil sold in commerce under this name is not obtained from these flowers, but is an imitation of the odor conventionally accepted for it. The true oil of honeysuckle, first prepared by the author, far surpasses these imitations in fragrance.
Hyssop.
Latin—Hyssopus officinalis; French—Hyssope; German—Ysopkraut.
Hyssop possesses a strong odor, a very bitter taste, and is used only for cheap perfumery, but more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs.
Jasmine.
Latin—Jasminum odoratissimum; French—Jasmin; German—JasminblÜthen.
True jasmine—not to be confounded with German jasmine (Philadelphus coronarius, known here as the mock orange, or the Syringa of cultivation) which is likewise employed in perfumery—flourishes particularly in the coast lands of the Mediterranean, where it is cultivated as a dwarf tree. The odor obtained from the flowers is one of the finest and most expensive in existence, and for this reason it would be well worth trying the cultivation in our southern States. At present nearly all the true jasmine perfume (pomade, extract, etc.) comes from France.
Lavender.
Latin—Lavandula vera; French—Lavande; German—Lavendel.
True lavender, which belongs to the Order of LabiatÆ that contains many aromatic plants, is one of the most ancient in our art; it was early used in Greece for purposes of perfumery. Although true lavender flourishes throughout central Europe, its cultivation on a large scale is carried on chiefly in England, and the oil of lavender from English factories is most highly prized. Much lavender is also grown in France, but the product, though very fine, has a much lower value.
True lavender is to be distinguished from spike-lavender (French, aspic; German, Spik-Lavendel), whose odor is similar to that of true lavender, but furnishes a much less aromatic perfume. The cultivation of lavender in this country (U. S.) might give good results.
Lemon.
Latin—Citrus Limonum; French—Limon; German—LimonenfrÜchte.
The fruits of the South European lemon-tree, not to be confounded with citrons, resemble the latter in appearance, but they are smaller, have a more acid taste and a thinner rind. The peel contains an essential oil which is very similar in odor to that of the citron. Hence the oils of lemon, limetta (from Citrus Limetta), and citron are used for the same purposes; but when the three oils are immediately compared, an experienced olfactory organ perceives a marked difference between them.
Lemon Grass.
Latin—Andropogon citrates; French—Schoenanthe; German—Citronengrass.
This grass, which bears a close resemblance to citronella, is largely cultivated, especially in India and Ceylon, for the essential oil it contains. The odor of the grass is similar to that of verbena, so that its oil is often used as an adulterant or rather as a substitute for the former. (Compare the article on “Citronella.”)
Lilac.
Latin—Flores SyringÆ; French—Lilas; German—FliederblÜthen.
This plant, Syringa vulgaris, a native of Persia but fully acclimated in Europe and in this country, has very fragrant flowers, the odor of which can be obtained only from the fresh blossoms.
A recently discovered liquid principle, now known as terpineol (C10H17OH), which exists in many essential oils, and in these, in the portion boiling between 420° and 424° F., possesses the lilac odor in a most pronounced degree, and to its presence in the lilac flowers the peculiar odor of the latter is, no doubt, due. It is obtainable in the market under the name lilacine.
The Syringa of the florists is not the true lilac, but the same as the Mock Orange, viz., Philadelphus coronarius.
The remarks made under the head of Wallflower apply equally to the blossoms of the white garden lily: strange to say, they are not used in perfumery, and all the so-called odors of lily are mixtures of several aromatic substances. The author has succeeded in separating from the flowers, by means of petroleum ether, the delightful odor present in large amount in the blossoms of this plant, and has employed it in the manufacture of magnificent perfumes.
Mace.
Latin—Macis; French—Macis; German—MuscatblÜthe.
This substance is the dried arillus covering the fruits of Myristica fragrans, the so-called nutmegs. The tree bearing them is indigenous to a group of islands in the Indian Archipelago and is cultivated especially on the Molucca islands. Although mace is in such close relation with nutmeg, yet, strange to say, the aromatic substance differs decidedly from that of the nut. Mace of good quality forms pieces of orange-yellow color; they are fleshy, usually slit open on one side, have a strong odor, tear with difficulty, and are so oily that when crushed they stain the fingers brownish-yellow. Mace is largely used in the preparation of sachets and particularly for scenting soap. In England, soap scented with mace is well liked.
Magnolia.
Latin—Magnolia grandiflora; French—Magnolia; German—MagnoliablÜthen.
The magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), indigenous to the warmer parts of South, Central, and North America, bears large white flowers having a delightful odor which can be extracted by means of petroleum ether. In the same way, truly intoxicating perfumes may be obtained from other varieties of magnolia. In our climate these plants flourish only in conservatories, and in their home no steps have yet been taken to utilize these natural treasures in a proper way; hence European manufacturers invariably produce the perfume called magnolia by combination of different odors.
Marjoram.
Latin—Herba majoranÆ; French—Marjolaine; German—Majorankraut.
This plant, Origanum Majorana (vulgare), frequently cultivated in kitchen gardens, possesses in all its parts a strong odor due to an essential oil. The latter, which is quite expensive, is but little used, and probably only for culinary purposes.
“Oil of Origanum” in English-speaking countries is intended to mean Oil of Thyme (from Thymus vulgaris), and never means Oil of Marjoram.
Meadow Sweet.
Latin—SpirÆa ulmaria; French—Reine des prÉs; German—Spierstaude.
This plant is frequent in Europe on damp meadows, and contains an aromatic substance closely allied to oil of wintergreen, which occurs also in the Canadian variety.
Mint.
Latin—Mentha; French—Menthe; German—Minze.
The varieties of mint claiming our attention are the following: Mentha piperita, Peppermint (French: Menthe poivrÉe; German: Pfefferminze).—Mentha viridis, Spearmint (French: Menthe verte; German: GrÜne Minze).—Mentha crispa, Crisp Mint (French: Menthe crÉpue [or frisÉe]; German: Krause Minze).
All of the mints have a pleasant odor; besides the plants named above, we may mention Mentha aquatica, whose odor faintly but distinctly recalls that of musk. Like lavender, Mentha crispa and M. piperita are cultivated particularly in England, and the English oils are the most superior. Mentha piperita is also largely cultivated in the United States. Mentha viridis and its oil are almost exclusively confined to this country.
Musk-Seed.
Latin—Semen Abelmoschi; French—Grains d’ambrette; German—BisamkÖrner.
The tree, Hibiscus Abelmoschus, indigenous to Africa and India, bears fruit capsules containing reddish-gray seeds with grooved surface, so-called musk-seeds. They have an odor resembling musk, but much weaker, though it becomes more pronounced when the seeds are bruised. Besides this species of Hibiscus, other plants belonging to the same order are aromatic and are also used in perfumery.
Myrrh.
Latin—Myrrha; French—Myrrhe; German—Myrrhe.
The gum-resin which we call myrrh has long been known in the East, where it was celebrated as one of the finest perfumes, along with spikenard and frankincense. The tree, Balsamodendron Myrrha (or Commiphora Myrrha Engler) is indigenous to the countries bordering the Red Sea to about 22° N. Lat.; the gum exudes partly spontaneously from the trunk. In European commerce myrrh appears in different sorts; that called myrrha electa or myrrha in lacrimis is the most precious; it forms tears of a golden yellow to brown color, traversed by white veins; they have a pleasant smell. That called myrrha naturalis is inferior, but on being heated develops the characteristic aroma. In commerce a product is sometimes offered by the name of myrrh which is nothing but cherry-tree gum scented with genuine myrrh.
Myrtle Leaves.
Latin—Myrtus communis; French—Myrte; German—MyrtenblÄtter.
The leaves of this Southern European plant diffuse a pleasant odor; the oil to which it is due can be extracted by distillation; yet the perfumes usually called myrtle are not obtained from the plant, but are made by the combination of several aromatic substances. The aromatic water known, especially in France, as “eau d’anges” is obtained by the distillation of myrtle leaves with water.
Narcissus.
Latin—Narcissus poeticus; French—Narcisse; German—NarcissenblÜthen.
The blossoms of this favorite garden plant, which is cultivated on a large scale near Nice, have a pleasant, almost narcotic odor which may be extracted in various ways; though the greatest part of the so-called narcissus perfumes are made artificially.
Another species of Narcissus (Narcissus Jonquilla) is frequently cultivated in warm countries for its pleasant scent; but the perfumes generally found in the market under the name of Extract, etc., of Jonquil are artificial compounds.
Nutmeg.
Latin—Myristica; French—Muscade; German—MuscatnÜsse.
These nuts are almost spherical in shape, the size of a small walnut, of a grayish-brown color externally, and usually coated with a faint whitish-gray covering (which is lime). Internally they are reddish-brown, with white marbled spots. Good fresh nutmegs should be dense, heavy, and so oily that when pierced with a needle a drop of oil should follow the withdrawal of the latter. Nuts which are hollow, wormy, and of a faint odor cannot be used in perfumery. Oil of nutmeg is used extensively in perfumery, but is rarely employed pure, more commonly in combination with other strong odors.
Olibanum.
Latin—Olibanum; French—Encens; German—Weihrauch.
This gum-resin, employed even by the ancient civilized nations of Asia, especially as incense for religious purposes, comes from East African trees, various species of Boswellia. Fine olibanum appears in light yellow tears, very transparent and hard, whose pleasant though faint odor becomes particularly marked when it is thrown on hot coals. In perfumery olibanum is used almost exclusively for pastils, fumigating powders, etc. Pulverulent olibanum constitutes an inferior quality and is often adulterated with pine resin.
Opopanax.
Latin—Resina Opopanax.
The root stock of an umbelliferous plant, indigenous in Syria, now recognized at Balsamodendron Kafal, furnishes a yellow milky sap containing an aromatic resin with an odor resembling that of gum ammoniacum. At least the opopanax now obtainable in the market is derived from this source. True opopanax resin, such as used to reach the market formerly, is now unobtainable, and its true source is yet unknown. Opopanax oil is used in perfumery to some extent.
Orange Flowers.
Latin—Flores Aurantii; French—Fleurs d’oranges; German—OrangenblÜthen.
The flowers of the bitter orange tree (Citrus vulgaris), as well as those of the sweet (Citrus Aurantium), contain very fragrant essential oils, which differ in flavor and value according to their source and mode of preparation. See below, under Oil of Orange. The leaves, too, contain a peculiar oil used in perfumery.
Orange Peel.
Latin—Cortex Aurantii; French—Ecorce d’oranges; German—Orangenschalen.
The very oily rinds of the orange occur in commerce in a dried form; such peels, however, can be used only in the manufacture of liqueurs; in perfumery nothing but the oil from the fresh rinds is employed, and this is generally obtained by pressure.
Origanum.
See Marjoram, and Thyme.
Orris Root.
Latin—Radix Iridis florentinÆ; French—Iris; German—Veilchenwurzel.
The Florentine sword-lily, Iris florentina, which often grows wild in Italy but is largely cultivated, has a creeping root-stock covered with a brown bark which, however, is peeled from the fresh root. Orris root occurs in commerce in whitish pieces which are sometimes forked; the surface is knotty, and the size may reach the thickness of a thumb and the length of a finger. When fresh, the roots have a disagreeable sharp odor, but on drying they attain an odor which may be said to resemble that of the violet; but on comparing the two odors immediately, a considerable difference is perceptible even to the untrained olfactory sense. Orris root should be as fresh as possible; this may be recognized by its toughness, the great weight, and the white, not yellow color on fracture. It is very frequently used for sachets and for fixing other odors.
Palm Oil.
Latin—Oleum PalmÆ; French—Huile de Palme; German—PalmÖl.
Palm oil, a fixed oil derived from Elais guineensis, possesses a peculiar odor faintly recalling that of violets which is easily extracted. Although not used thus far in perfumery, personal experiments have convinced the author that the odor can be employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumes.
Patchouly.
Latin—Pogostemon Patchouly; French—Patchouly; German—Patschulikraut.
This herb, indigenous to the East Indies and China, in appearance somewhat resembling our garden sage, is used in the countries named as one of the most common perfumes; many East Indian and Chinese goods (such as Cashmere shawls, India ink, etc.) owe their peculiar odor to the patchouly herb which is very productive. In this respect it can be compared only with the nutmeg, but exceeds even this in intensity. This herb is not known very long in Europe, but at present it is imported in large quantities from India; in commerce it occurs in small bundles consisting of stems and leaves (collected before flowering).
Peru Balsam.
Latin—Balsamum peruvianum; French—Beaume du PÉrou; German—Perubalsam.
This balsam, imported from Central America (San Salvador), is derived from Toluifera PereirÆ; incisions are made in the bark and trunk of the tree, from which the balsam exudes. Peru balsam is of a syrupy consistence, thick and viscid, brownish-red in thin, blackish-brown in thick layers. Its taste is pungent, sharp, and bitter, afterward acrid; its odor is somewhat smoky, but agreeable and balsamic. Peru balsam is often sophisticated with fixed oil; this can be readily detected by agitation with alcohol, by which the oil is separated. But if castor oil is the adulterant, this test is not applicable, as castor oil dissolves with equal facility in alcohol.
Pine-apple.
Latin—Bromelia Ananas; French—Ananas; German—Ananas.
The fruits of this plant, originally derived from the East Indies, have a well-known narcotic odor which can be extracted from them.
In commerce we often meet with a chemical product called pine-apple ether which will be described at greater length under the head of chemical products used in perfumery. Pine-apple ether has an odor usually considered to be like that of the fruit, but when the two substances are immediately compared a great difference will be detected. Pine-apple ether finds quite extensive application in confectionery for the preparation of lemonades, punch, ices, etc. If the true pine-apple odor is to be prepared from the fruits, care must be had to use ripe fruits; the unripe or overripe fruits possess a less delicate aroma.
Pink.
Latin—Dianthus Caryophyllus; French—Œillet; German—NelkenblÜthen.
The odor of this favorite garden plant can be easily extracted from the flowers by means of petroleum ether; but the genuine odor of pink is hardly ever met with in perfumery; the preparations sold under this name being usually artificial mixtures of other odors.
Plumeria.
Latin—Plumeria; French—Plumeria; German—PlumeriablÜthen.
All the Plumerias, indigenous to the Antilles, contain very fragrant odors in their flowers. To the best of our knowledge, these odors have not yet been extracted from the flowers, and all the perfumes sold under this name (sometimes also called Frangipanni) are merely combinations of different odors.
Reseda (Mignonette).
Latin—Reseda odorata; French—Mignonette; German—Reseda.
This herbaceous plant, probably indigenous to northern Africa, but long domesticated in Europe and cultivated in gardens, is well known for its refreshing odor. The latter, however, is very difficult to extract and is yielded only to the method of absorption (enfleurage). The true odor of reseda, owing to the mode of its preparation, is very expensive, and for this reason nearly all perfumes sold under this name are produced from other aromatic substances.
Rhodium.
Latin—Lignum Rhodii; French—Bois de rose; German—Rosenholz.
This is derived from two climbing plants, Convolvulus scoparius and Convolvulus floridus, indigenous to the Canary islands, and is the root wood of these plants. Its odor resembles that of the rose, and the wood is frequently used for cheap sachets and for the extraction of the contained essential oil which was formerly (before oil of rose geranium was made on the large scale) employed for the adulteration of genuine oil of rose.
Rose.
Latin—Rosa; French—Rose; German—RosenblÜthen.
Horticulture has produced innumerable varieties from wild species of roses, which differ in size, form, color, as well as in odor. We instance here only the various odors exhaled by tea roses and moss roses. Accordingly, perfumers likewise distinguish different odors of roses. Cultivated on a large scale exclusively for the extraction of the essential oil, we find different varieties of roses in India, in European Turkey (Rosa Damascena), in Persia, and in Southern France. In this country (U. S.), too, oil of roses could be manufactured with advantage.
The wild rose, sweet brier, French Églantine, possesses a delicate but very fugitive odor, and therefore the perfume sold as wild rose is usually prepared from other substances with the addition of oil of roses. The same remark applies to the odor called “white rose” and to those sold as “tea rose,” “moss rose,” etc.
Rosemary.
Latin—Rosmarinus officinalis; French—Romarin; German—Rosmarin.
This plant, indigenous to Southern and Central Europe, contains pretty large quantities of an aromatic oil in its leaves and flowers; the oil has a refreshing odor and therefore is frequently added in small amounts to fine perfumes.
Rue.
Latin—Ruta graveolens; French—Rue; German—Raute.
This plant, cultivated in our gardens and also growing wild here, has long been employed for its strong odor; in perfumery rue, in a dry state as well as its oil, is occasionally used.
Sage.
Latin—Salvia officinalis; French—Sauge; German—Salbei.
All varieties of sage, the one named being found most frequently growing wild in the meadows of Southern Europe, and extensively cultivated in Europe and in this country, possess a very agreeable, refreshing odor which adheres for a long time even to the dried leaves; these are therefore very suitable for sachets, tooth powders, etc.
Santal Wood.
Latin—Santalum album; French—Santal; German—Santalholz.
The tree from which this wood is derived is indigenous to Eastern Asia, to the Sunda Islands. The wood is soft, very fragrant, and is also erroneously called sandal wood. The latter is of a dark reddish-brown color, not fragrant, and is derived from Pterocarpus santalinus, a tree indigenous to Southern India, and the Philippine Islands; it is of value to the dyer and the cabinet-maker, but to the perfumer only for coloring some tinctures. For the purposes of perfumery use can be made only of santal wood (white or yellow santal wood) which possesses a very pleasant odor resembling that of oil of rose. Formerly essential oil of santal was employed for the adulteration of oil of rose. White and yellow santal wood comes from the same tree—the former from the smaller trunks of Santalum album.
Sassafras.
Latin—Lignum Sassafras; French—Sassafras; German—Sassafrasholz.
Sassafras wood, derived from the root of the American tree Sassafras officinalis, appears in commerce in large bundles. It has a strong peculiar odor; in the bark of the root the odor is even more marked. In the European drug trade Sassafras saw dust is also met with, but this is not rarely mixed with pine saw dust which has been moistened with fennel water and again dried. In perfumery sassafras wood is less used for the manufacture of volatile odors than for scenting soap. Since the principal constituent of oil of sassafras, viz., safrol, has been found to be contained in the crude oil of Japanese camphor, the latter has to a very large extent taken the place of the natural oil.
Spikenard.
Latin—Nardostachys Jatamansi; French—Spic-nard; German—Nardenkraut.
This plant, belonging to the Order of ValerianaceÆ, which generally possess a strong and more or less unpleasant odor, forms one of the main objects of Oriental perfumery; in the East Indies, where the plant grows wild on the mountains, the odor is held about in the same estimation as that of roses, violets, etc., in Europe. Spikenard was probably known to the ancient Babylonians and Assyrians, for in the Bible, in the Song of Solomon, we find this plant repeatedly mentioned and praised for its pleasant odor. As the odor of spikenard is not appreciated in Europe, the plant is rarely met with in commerce. All parts of the plant are aromatic, but use is chiefly made of the root, consisting of fine fibres which are tied in bundles the thickness of a finger.
Star-Anise.
Latin—Illicium; Semen Anisi stellati; French—Badiane; German—Sternanis.
Star-anise occurs in commerce in the form of eight-chambered capsules, each compartment containing one glossy seed, and is derived from a Chinese tree, Illicium anisatum. The fruits are brown, woody; the seed has a sweetish taste and an odor resembling that of anise. Outside of perfumery star-anise is used in the manufacture of liqueurs. Recently a drug has appeared in commerce under the name of star-anise which possesses poisonous qualities, and is derived from another variety of Illicium (Illicium religiosum). While this may be of no consequence to the perfumer, it is important to the manufacturer of liqueurs who always uses star-anise for fine goods and never oil of anise.
Storax.
Latin—Styrax; French—Styrax; German—Storax.
This product which belongs among the balsams is derived from a small tree, Liquidambar orientalis, and is obtained from the bark by heating with water, and also by pressure. It forms a viscid mass like turpentine, has a gray color, a burning sharp taste, an agreeable odor, and is easily soluble in strong alcohol; but the odor becomes pleasant only after the solution is highly diluted. Storax has the peculiar property of binding different, very delicate odors, to render them less fugitive, and for this reason finds frequent application in perfumery.
Oriental storax should not be confounded with American storax which occurs in commerce under the name of Sweet Gum, Gum Wax, or Liquidamber, and is derived from Liquidambar styraciflua. It is quite a thick transparent liquid, light yellow, gradually becoming more and more solid and darker colored, but is often used in place of the former, though its odor is less fine.
Sumbul Root.
Latin—Radix Sumbul; French—Soumboul; German—Moschuswurzel.
The Sumbul plant (Ferula Sumbul), indigenous to Turkestan and adjoining countries, has a light brown root covered with thin fibres, which has a penetrating odor of musk. Owing to this quality it is frequently employed in perfumery, especially for sachets. In commerce a distinction is made between East Indian and Bokharian or Russian sumbul, due to the different routes by which the article arrives. The latter, which possesses the strongest odor, probably because it reaches the market in a fresher state, is the most valuable.
Sweet Almonds.
Latin—Amygdala dulcis; French—Amandes douces; German—SÜsse Mandeln.
The almond-tree, Amygdalus communis, occurs in two varieties, undistinguishable by botanical characteristics. One bears sweet, the other bitter fruits (comp. Bitter almonds, page 24). Both are odorless and contain much fixed oil. The special odor of bitter almonds forms only in consequence of the decomposition of a peculiar body (amygdalin), present in bitter almonds, when it comes in contact with water. Good almonds are full, juicy, light brown, without wrinkles, and have a sweet mild taste. A rancid taste characterizes staleness. The fixed or expressed oil, both that of the sweet and that of the bitter almonds (which are identical in taste, odor, and other properties), is used in perfumery for fine hair oils, ointments, and some fine soft soaps.
Sweet-Flag Root.
Latin—Radix Calami; French—Racine de glaÏeule; German—Calmuswurzel.
The calamus root met with in commerce is the creeping root-stock of a plant (Acorus Calamus), occurring in all countries of the northern hemisphere, and frequent in European and American swamps. The root-stock is spongy, about as thick as a finger, many-jointed, and of a yellowish color, with many dark streaks and dots. Inside the color is reddish-white. The odor is strong and the taste sharp and burning.
Sweet-Pea.
Latin—Lathyrus tuberosus; French—Pois de senteur; German—PlatterbsenblÜthen.
Sweet-pea flowers, which have a very delicate odor, yield it to the usual solvents. The odor bears some resemblance to that of orange flowers, but is rarely used alone; it is generally combined with others to make it more lasting.
Syringa.
Latin—Philadelphus coronarius; French—Seringat, Lilac; German—PfeifenstrauchblÜthen.
The white flowers of this garden bush have a very pleasant odor which resembles that of orange flowers, in place of which it can be used, in the cheaper grades of perfumery. This plant which flourishes freely in our climate deserves more attention by perfumers than it has hitherto received, since it appears to furnish an excellent substitute for the expensive oil of orange flowers, as above stated, in cheap perfumes.
Thyme.
Latin—Thymus Serpyllum; French—Thym; German—Thymian.
This well-known aromatic plant, which grows most luxuriantly on a calcareous soil, has an odor which is not unpleasant but is in greater demand for liqueurs than for perfumes. Here and there, however, it is employed for scenting soap. Common thyme, Thymus vulgaris, is used for the same purposes.
Under the name of Oil of Thyme, in the English and American market, is generally understood the oil of Thymus vulgaris, which is largely distilled in the South of France. This oil is commonly misnamed Oil of Origanum.
Tolu Balsam.
Latin—Balsamum tolutanum; French—Beaume de Tolu; German—Tolubalsam.
This balsam is derived from a tree indigenous to the northern portion of South America, Toluifera Balsamum, belonging to the Order of LeguminosÆ. The balsam, which is obtained by incisions into the bark of these trees, is at first fluid, but becomes firm in the air owing to rapid resinification; in commerce it appears in a viscid form ranging from that of Venice turpentine to that of colophony. Its color varies from honey-yellow to reddish-brown; the taste is at first sweet, then sharp, it softens under the heat of the hand, and when warmed or sprinkled in powder form on glowing coals it diffuses a very pleasant odor recalling that of Peru balsam or vanilla. It shares with storax and Peru balsam the valuable property of fixing volatile odors and is often employed for this purpose, but is also frequently used alone in fumigating powders, tooth powders, etc. Adulteration of Tolu balsam with Venice turpentine or colophony is not rarely met with.
Tonka Beans.
Latin—FabÆ TonkÆ; French—FÈves de Tonka; German—Tonkabohnen, Tonkasamen.
The South American tonka tree, Dipteryx odorata, bears almond-shaped drupes almost as long as the finger, which contain seeds two to four centimetres in length, the so-called tonka beans. These occur in European commerce in two sorts, the so-called Dutch and English tonka beans; the former are large, full, covered externally with a folded brown to black skin, and white inside. The latter are barely two-thirds the size of the former, almost black, and less glossy. The odor of the tonka bean is due to a volatile crystalline substance, coumarin, which often lies on the surface and in the wrinkles of the bean in the form of delicate, brilliant crystalline needles. Coumarin exists also in many other plants, for instance, in sweet woodruff (Asperula odorata), deer-tongue (Liatris odoratissima), etc.
Tuberose.
Latin—Polianthus tuberosa; French—TubÉrose; German—Tuberose.
This beautiful and very fragrant plant is frequently cultivated in Southern France; its pleasant odor, however, owing to its great volatility, can never be used pure, but must always be fixed with one of the above-mentioned balsams. As has been stated in connection with several aromatic plants, tuberose could be grown in our southern States with advantage for the extraction of its odor.
Vanilla.
Latin—Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; French—Vanille; German—Vanille.
The vanilla, which may justly be called a king among aromatic plants, is a climbing orchid indigenous to tropical America. It is cultivated on a most extensive scale on the islands of Reunion and Mauritius; largely also in Mexico, and in some other countries. The agreeable odor is present in the fruit. These form three-lobed capsules about the length of a lead pencil and the thickness of a quill. Externally they are glossy brown, have a fatty feel, and show in the depression a white powder which appears crystalline under a lens. Internally good fresh vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers on being crushed and is filled with numerous shining seeds the size of a small pin’s head. These properties, together with the plump appearance and great weight, mark good qualities. Old vanilla, whose odor is fainter and less fragrant, may be recognized by its wrinkled surface, the absence of the white dust, the slight weight, and the bent ends of the capsules. Fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods a fresher appearance by coating them with almond oil or Peru balsam. “Vanilla de Leg” is recognized as the first quality of Mexican vanilla. Like most odors, that of vanilla does not become pleasant until it is sufficiently diluted.
Verbena.
Latin—Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; French—Verveine; German—Verbenakraut.
The leaves of this Peruvian plant, especially on being rubbed between the fingers, exhale a very pleasant odor which is due to an essential oil. The odor resembles that of fine citrons, or rather that of lemon grass; hence these two odors are frequently mistaken for each other. Owing to the high price of true oil of verbena, all the perfumes sold under this name are prepared from oil of lemon grass (see under Citronella) and other essential oils.
Vetiver.
Latin—Andropogon muricatus; French—VÉtyver; German—Vetiverwurzel.
Vetiver, also called cuscus, and sometimes iwarankusa (though this is more properly the name of Andropogon lanifer; see above, under Citronella), is the fibrous root-stock of a grass indigenous to India, where fragrant mats are woven from it. The odor of the root somewhat resembles that of santal wood, and is used partly alone, partly for fixing volatile perfumes. Shavings of the root are frequently employed for filling sachet bags.
Violet.
Latin—Viola odorata; French—Violette; German—VeilchenblÜthen.
The wonderful fragrance of the March violet is due to an essential oil which it is, however, difficult to extract. For this reason genuine perfume of violets, really prepared from the flowers, is among the most expensive odors, and the high-priced so-called violet perfumes are generally mixtures of other fine odors, while the cheaper grades are made from orris root.
Volkameria.
This plant, Volkameria inermis, often cultivated in conservatories, has a very agreeable odor. The perfume called by this name, however, is not obtained from the plant, but is produced by the mixture of several aromatic extracts from other plants.
Wallflower.
Latin—Cheiranthus Cheiri; French—GiroflÉ; German—LevkojenblÜthen, Goldlack.
The wallflower, a well-known biennial garden plant belonging to the Order of CruciferÆ, according to recent experiments yields a very fine odor to certain substances and may be employed in the manufacture of quite superior perfumes. The preparations usually sold as wallflower, however, are not made from the flowers of this plant, but are mixtures of different odors.
Wintergreen.
Latin—Gaultheria procumbens; French—GaulthÉrie; German—WintergrÜnblÄtter.
This herbaceous plant, indigenous to North America, especially Canada and the Northern and Middle United States, where it grows wild in large quantities, has a very pleasant odor due to an essential oil and a compound ether which can also be produced artificially. The odor of wintergreen serves chiefly for scenting fine soaps.
Ylang-Ylang.
This plant, Unona odoratissima, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, contains an exceedingly fragrant oil. It is brought into commerce from Manilla.
Owing to climatic relations, it is impossible for the perfumer to procure all the above-enumerated substances in the fresh state; many of them he is forced to purchase through the drug trade, and he should bear in mind to give the preference always to the freshest obtainable goods. At times it is not possible to utilize the materials at once for the extraction of the odors and they must be kept for some time. The vegetable substances should always be stored in an airy, not over dry room; and the material should be often inspected. If a trace of mouldiness shows itself, the material must be worked at once, since, if the mould is allowed to go on, the fragrance will suffer and may be destroyed altogether.
The aromatic substances here enumerated are those which have actually found general employment in perfumery; but the list is not complete, since every aromatic plant can be used for the extraction of its odor. Of course, this is connected with some difficulties, but even in the present state of our knowledge they can all be overcome. When a new odor has been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in ascertaining by many experiments those substances which harmonize with it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not single odors but combinations of several which are in accord.
Even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds to be made by the perfumer, and in this respect we refer particularly to some very fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods and to the delightful odor of the lily of the valley. As to the latter, a perfume is met with in commerce under this name, but its odor bears no resemblance to that of the flower.
A few facts appear to us of especial importance. In practical perfumery many of the plants which are easily obtainable in large quantities, such as the flowers of clover and trefoil, the primrose, the rock-rose (Daphne Cneorum), dame’s-violet (Hesperis matronalis), and others above named, have never been employed. As an actual curiosity we may state that there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor present in the flowers of the linden-tree, of the Robinia (erroneously called Acacia), of the lilac, etc., at least not made from the plants here named.
