ht, a flour sifter is required.

25. Certain utensils are required for the beating of the eggs used in cakes. If they are to be beaten separately before being put into the mixture, a bowl and a rotary egg beater should be provided. In case the eggs are to be separated and the whites beaten alone, a flat dish, such as a platter or a soup plate, and an egg whip are the most satisfactory.

26. The kind of pan required for the baking of cakes depends entirely on the kind of cake that is to be prepared. Fig. 1 shows the types of pans for which the housewife will have the most use. The square pan at the left is suitable for any kind of cake that is to be baked in the form of a loaf. In front of this is a layer-cake pan with a removable bottom. This type of layer-cake pan is the most satisfactory, for the cake may be lifted right out of the pan rim on the cake-pan bottom and the bottom then easily removed from the cake after it has been placed on the cooler. Of course, pans without false bottoms may also be used successfully with a little care. The large flat pan at the right is a pan for the baking of all kinds of cookies. On this is shown a round pan having a removable bottom, to the center of which is attached a tube. Sponge cakes, although they may be baked in loaf-cake pans, are generally baked in a pan of this kind. Pans for individual cakes range in size from large muffin pans, like the one shown at the right front, to pans that produce cakes very small in size.

PROCEDURE IN CAKE MAKING

PREPARATION OF INGREDIENTS

27. In cake making, as in the preparation of other dishes, a systematic plan must be followed if good results are desired. A housewife cannot expect to have a successful cake if she has to stop during the mixing to get some of the ingredients or some of the utensils ready. Before the mixing is begun, all the utensils and ingredients should be collected and any of the ingredients that require special preparation should be prepared. Then, if the recipe is correct, if the ingredients are measured accurately and combined correctly, and if the baking is done properly, success in cake making is assured.

28. The first thing to be done, when a cake is to be made, is to read the recipe to determine just what is required and to find out whether all the ingredients called for are in supply. With this done, all the utensils should be placed conveniently on the table and the ingredients collected and measured. Some authorities advise the weighing of the ingredients in cake because weight is always regarded as more accurate than measure. If a recipe calls for weights, it will be found easier to use them than to try to change them to measure; but when a recipe requires measures, and does not state weights, it would be unwise to attempt to use scales for measuring.

29. The measuring of the fat often requires a little attention. For instance, if only 1/4 cupful of butter or some other fat is required, it may perhaps be more convenient to measure it with a tablespoon than with a cup. Otherwise, unless the recipe calls for melted fat, the fat should be measured by pressing it down tight into the cup until it reaches the mark indicating the required amount. If the fat is hard and cold, as is usually the case when it is first taken from the refrigerator or other cold place, it will be difficult to cream. A good plan is to let the fat stand until it is 70 degrees Fahrenheit, or ordinary room temperature, before the mixing is begun.

30. The dry ingredients used in cakes include the sugar, flour, baking powder, spices, etc. Granulated sugar seldom requires any preparation except measuring. However, sugar other than granulated, particularly brown sugar and pulverized sugar, should be rolled with a rolling pin and then sifted in order to free it from any lumps it might contain. Flour should be sifted once before measuring and again with the baking powder, or soda and cream of tartar, and salt in order to mix them. Other dry ingredients, such as spices and occasionally pulverized sugar, may also be sifted with the flour and other dry ingredients. If the dry leavening agent appears to be lumpy when the cover is removed from the can, it should be worked smooth with a spoon and sifted before it is measured. A very small mesh wire sieve may be used for this purpose.

31. The liquid should be measured by pouring it into the measuring cup with the cup stationary and level. The eggs, which are, of course, one of the liquid ingredients, should be neither broken until just before they are to be used, nor beaten until the mixture is brought to the point where the eggs are to be added. If the whites are to be used for the preparation of icing after the cake is baked, they should be kept in a cool place until they are beaten.

32. Fruits, nuts, and other miscellaneous ingredients should be prepared before the mixing of the cake is begun; that is, they should be cleansed, cut, ground, or chopped, as the case may be, so that it will not be necessary to stop the mixing of the cake to do any of this work. If they are to be dredged with flour, this may be done at the time they are prepared.

PREPARATION OF PANS

33. The pan or pans in which the cake is to be baked should also be prepared before the mixing is begun. The treatment to be given to the pans depends to a large extent on the cake that is to be put into them. Butter cake or any of its variations requires greased pans, whereas sponge cake should be put in pans that are not greased.

34. BUTTER-CAKE PANS.--The fat used to grease pans of any kind should be a clean, tasteless fat. Less will be required to cover the surface of the pan if an oil rather than a solid fat is used. In case butter is selected for this purpose, it should first be melted and then allowed to stand until the clear fat that rises to the top can be gathered. However, fats that are less expensive than butter are perfectly satisfactory for greasing pans, and so butter should not be used unless other fats are not available.

35. Muffin pans or individual pans of any kind should first be greased with a brush or a small piece of clean paper dipped into the fat that is to be used, and then dusted with flour. The flour should cover the surface of the pan, but should be shaken out so that no more than just a film remains over the grease. A brush may also be used for the greasing of other pans, but it is not recommended, as the fat is apt to become rancid in the brush, and if it is cleansed as often as is necessary to keep it in good condition, a great deal of fat, which clings to the brush, will be wasted. A small piece of paper dipped in fat will be found much more economical and quite as satisfactory for this work.

[Illustration: FIG. 2: loaf pan.]

36. Loaf-cake pans, that is, pans that make cake in the form of a loaf, should first be greased and then, as shown in Fig. 2, have the bottom covered with a piece of oiled paper or light wrapping paper that may be oiled after being put into the pan. This paper should be the exact width of the bottom of the pan and should be long enough to cover the bottom and extend up to the top of each end. The sides of the pan need not be covered, as it is a simple matter to loosen the cake from them with a knife. When the cake is turned out of the pan, the paper will stick to the cake, but it may be easily removed by merely pulling it off.

37. Layer-cake pans, whether they have false bottoms or not, should be greased and then covered with a light layer of flour, just as is done with individual pans. If such a pan does not have a false bottom and the cake seems to stick to it, the best plan is to turn the pan upside down and place a cold damp towel on it for a few minutes. This will moisten the surface of the bottom sufficiently to permit the pan to be removed without difficulty.

38. SPONGE-CAKE PANS.--The preparation of sponge-cake pans differs from that for butter-cake pans because of the nature of the cake. No grease of any sort should be applied to the surface of sponge-cake pans. If desired, they may be dusted with flour, but even this is not necessary, as very satisfactory results are obtained by putting the cake mixture into the bare pan.

SPONGE CAKES AND THEIR PREPARATION

METHOD OF PROCEDURE

39. With the ingredients and utensils gathered and prepared, the mixing of the cake may be begun at once. The method of mixing depends entirely on the kind of cake that is being made, sponge cake involving a different procedure from butter cake. These methods should be thoroughly mastered, so that there will be no danger of confusing them and so that the recipe will not need to be referred to constantly during the mixing of the cake. When an ingredient that is not usually included in the ordinary butter or sponge cake is found in the recipe, the way in which this ingredient is added to the mixture should be carefully noted, so that no mistake will be made.

40. NATURE OF SPONGE CAKE.--A true sponge cake contains nothing besides eggs, sugar, flour, and flavoring material. The eggs, sugar, and flour are used in equal amounts, the eggs and sugar being about the same by weight or measure and the flour half as much by weight. For instance, a successful sponge cake can be made with a cupful each of eggs, sugar, and flour. To these ingredients the juice of 1/2 lemon is usually added, and sometimes the grated rind of the lemon is used also. The simple variation in sponge-cake mixtures is the addition of liquid, which is usually water, sometimes cold and sometimes hot. In the true sponge cake, eggs supply all the leavening, but it is possible to economize in the number of eggs by using leavening of some other kind, such as soda and cream of tartar or baking powder. The texture of a sponge cake in which leavening other than eggs is used is not so good as that of the true sponge cake, but if this leavening is used discreetly, it is possible to decrease the number of eggs somewhat without sacrificing too much in texture. However, it is useless to try to make a good sponge cake with fewer than three eggs, for the other ingredients--flour, sugar, leavening, and liquid--are not sufficient to produce a delicious cake.

41. COMBINING THE INGREDIENTS.--The ingredients required for a true sponge cake and the utensils used in making such a cake are shown in Fig. 3. As will be observed, both the utensils and the materials are so placed on the table in front of the one who is to make the cake that the work may be performed with the least amount of effort.

If the whole eggs are to be used, break them into the mixing bowl and beat them with a rotary egg beater, as shown in Fig. 4, until they are thick and lemon-colored. In case only the whites are to be used, beat them with an egg whip on a flat dish or in a large bowl until they are stiff. To the beaten egg, add the sugar a little at a time, as shown in Fig. 5, beating it into the egg with the rotary beater.

Either granulated or pulverized sugar may be used, but pulverized is the better of the two, because it is lighter. When the sugar is added at this time, sift the flour several times, and, as in Fig. 6, add it last, folding it into the mixture with a wire egg whip. However, if it is desired to do so, the sugar and flour may be sifted together and added at the same time, or both the sugar and flour may be sifted separately and then added to the eggs alternately. Then add the flavoring and, if liquid is to be used, put it in at this time. In case leavening is supplied, sift it in with the flour. The mixture is then ready for the pan. Place the ungreased pan conveniently on the table and then, as shown in Fig. 7, pour the mixture from the bowl into it. Scrape the sides of the bowl well, so that there will be no more waste than is necessary.

42. BAKING SPONGE CAKE.--As soon as the mixture has been poured into the pan, set it in a moderate oven to bake. The temperature should be about 300 degrees Fahrenheit when the cake is put into the oven, but it may be gradually increased to 350 or 400 degrees. If the temperature cannot be determined, the paper test may be applied. This consists in placing a piece of white paper in the oven. To be right for sponge cake, the heat should turn this paper a moderate brown in 4 minutes. The time for baking depends, of course, on the size of the cake, but usually more time is required than for butter cake.

In putting the cake into the oven, set it on the lower rack, as here the mixture will be in a position to come up with the heat of the oven, which, as is known, has a general tendency to rise. If it is placed on the top rack where the heated air is necessarily passing down toward the outside walls because of the circulation that is established, there will be a certain amount of pressure on top of the cake which will prevent it from rising. Allow the cake to remain on the lower rack until it has risen to its fullest extent, and then, if necessary, remove it to the top rack for browning.

43. Several tests to determine whether sponge cake is ready to remove from the oven can be applied. One of these consists in observing the cake in the pan. After it has risen as much as it will rise, a small amount of shrinkage will, as shown in Fig. 8, loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Another test, which is known as the finger test, consists in making a depression in the center of the cake. If the cake is baked sufficiently, it will spring back to fill the depression, but if it is not done, the depression will remain.

44. REMOVING SPONGE CAKE FROM PAN.--When sponge cake is taken from the oven, it requires different treatment from that of butter cake. Instead of removing it from the pan immediately, turn it upside down on a cooler to sweat, as shown in Fig. 9. Allow it to remain in this way until it has shrunken sufficiently from the pan, and then lift off the pan. If necessary, the cake may become completely cold before the pan is taken from it. Close adherence to these directions will prevent any trouble that may arise in removing sponge cake from the pan.

RECIPES FOR SPONGE CAKE AND ITS VARIATIONS

45. PLAIN SPONGE CAKE.--The ideal proportions for a sponge cake are given in the accompanying recipe and upon these proportions the other recipes are based.

PLAIN SPONGE CAKE

• 4 eggs
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 c. flour
• Juice and rind of 1/2 lemon

Beat the eggs until they are thick and lemon-colored. Add the sugar gradually and continue to beat. Sift the flour several times and fold into the mixture. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add the grated rind and the juice of the lemon, pour into a sponge-cake pan, and bake.

46. COLD-WATER SPONGE CAKE.--The accompanying recipe is a slight variation from the true sponge cake, for it contains leavening other than eggs and a small amount of cold water. No difficulty will be experienced in making a cake according to this recipe if the directions are carefully followed.

COLD-WATER SPONGE CAKE

• 3 eggs
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• Rind and juice of 1 lemon
• 1/2 c. cold water
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/2 c. flour

Beat the eggs until they are thick and lemon-colored. Add the sugar gradually and continue beating. Grate the yellow part from the lemon rind and add it with the juice. Pour in the cold water, continuing to beat. Sift in the baking powder with the flour and add to the egg mixture. Pour into a sponge-cake pan and bake.

47. HOT-WATER SPONGE CAKE.--Hot water and leavening in the form of soda and cream of tartar are used in the accompanying recipe for sponge cake. The texture is not just the same as that of a plain sponge cake, but if the recipe is carefully followed an excellent cake will be the result.

HOT-WATER SPONGE CAKE

• 4 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 1-1/2 c. powdered sugar
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1-1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1/4 c. hot water
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Beat the eggs with a rotary beater until they are thick and lemon-colored. Sift the flour, powdered sugar, soda, and cream of tartar together several times. Sift these into the eggs and continue beating. When all of the dry ingredients have been added, pour in the boiling water, flavor with the vanilla, and pour into a sponge-cake pan and bake.

48. ORANGE SPONGE CAKE.--Sponge cake is delicious when it is flavored with orange. No leavening except the eggs is used in the recipe for cake of this kind. Lemon may be used in place of orange and 1/2 cupful of finely chopped nuts may be added.

ORANGE SPONGE CAKE

• 4 eggs
• 1 c. granulated sugar
• 3/4 c. flour
• 2 Tb. orange juice
• 1/2 tsp. orange extract

Beat the eggs with a rotary beater until they are light and lemon-colored. Add the granulated sugar gradually. Sift into this the flour, and continue the beating until all are mixed. Add the orange juice and extract, pour into a sponge-cake pan, and bake.

49. SUNSHINE CAKE.--Nothing more delicious in the way of cake can be made than sunshine cake. It is especially nice to serve with a frozen dessert of some kind, for it is not too rich and it is attractive in color.

SUNSHINE CAKE

• 6 eggs
• 1/3 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 c. sugar
• 3/4 c. flour
• 1 tsp. lemon juice
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with a rotary beater until they are thick and lemon-colored. Beat the egg whites until they are foamy, add the cream of tartar, and continue beating until they are dry. Fold the sugar into the egg whites and then fold the yolks into this mixture. Sift the flour several times and add it. Add the lemon juice and vanilla, pour into a sponge-cake pan, and bake.

50. ANGEL CAKE NO. 1.--A variety of sponge cake in which only the egg whites are used is known as angel cake. Some persons hesitate to make cake of this kind because of the number of eggs it takes, but usually the yolks that remain can be put to very good use and so the cake is no more expensive than most others.

ANGEL CAKE No. 1

• 1 c. flour
• 1 c. powdered sugar
• 10 egg whites
• 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Sift the flour and powdered sugar together four or five times in order to make them very light. Beat the egg whites with a whip until they are foamy. Add the cream of tartar, and continue beating until they are stiff enough to heap up in a mound and stay this way. Sift the mixture of flour and sugar a little at a time into the egg whites and continue beating until all is added. Flavor with the vanilla, place in a sponge-cake pan with a tube in the center, and bake in a very moderate oven.

51. ANGEL CAKE NO. 2.--If a slightly larger cake than the first angel-cake recipe will make is desired, the accompanying recipe should be followed. Its texture is practically the same as that of the other cake.

ANGEL CAKE No. 2

• 1-1/4 c. flour
• 1-3/4 c. powdered sugar
• 12 egg whites
• 1 tsp. cream of tartar

Sift the flour and sugar separately four or five times. Beat the egg whites until they are foamy and add the cream of tartar, continuing to beat until they are stiff. Add the powdered sugar gradually, continuing the beating. When all this has been added, sift in the flour, and fold it in with as light a motion as possible. Pour into a sponge-cake pan with a tube in the center, and bake in a very moderate oven, raising the temperature slightly at the end.

52. POTATO-FLOUR SPONGE CAKE.--When a substitute for wheat flour must be used and the supply of eggs is not large, the family need not be deprived of excellent cake, for potato sponge cake can be made. This resembles angel food to a certain extent, as it is white in color and tender in texture. It is a splendid cake to serve with rich frozen desserts.

POTATO-FLOUR SPONGE CAKE

• 5 egg whites
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. water
• 2/3 c. potato flour
• 1/3 c. wheat flour
• 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 tsp. lemon extract

Beat the egg whites until stiff. Cook the sugar and water until the sirup threads. Add this sirup to the egg whites and beat well. Sift the potato flour, wheat flour, and cream of tartar three times, and then fold into the mixture. Add the flavoring, turn into a pan, and bake for about 40 minutes.

53. SPONGE CAKE WITH POTATO FLOUR.--The accompanying recipe for sponge cake contains honey for part of the sweetening, both the yolks and the whites of the eggs, and potato flour. When sugar and wheat flour are scarce, this is a very good cake to make.

SPONGE CAKE WITH POTATO FLOUR

• 1/2 c. honey
• 1/2 c. granulated sugar
• 1/2 c. water
• 5 eggs
• Grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1/2 c. potato flour

Boil the honey, sugar, and water to the soft-ball stage. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks until thick and lemon-colored, and then beat the sirup into them. Add the grated lemon rind and juice, stir in the potato flour, and finally fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten very light. Bake in a tube pan for about 50 minutes.

BUTTER CAKES AND THEIR PREPARATION

METHOD OF PROCEDURE

54. NATURE OF BUTTER CAKE.--The ingredients for a simple butter cake consist of butter or other fat, sugar, flour, eggs, leavening, and liquid. The proportion of flour and liquid in cake of this kind is similar to that of a thick, or muffin, batter, that is, 2 measures of flour and 1 measure of liquid; but it should be remembered that the addition of other ingredients, such as butter, sugar, and eggs, alter this proportion to a certain extent. However, it is possible to make up a cake recipe from a muffin recipe by using 1/2 as much sugar as flour and 1/2 as much butter as sugar. With a knowledge of these proportions, the housewife will be able to judge how near a new recipe comes to being a reasonable one and what the possibilities of its success are.

55. COMBINING THE INGREDIENTS.--The method of mixing all cakes that include butter as an ingredient is similar. It is explained and illustrated in detail, so that the housewife may become thoroughly familiar with it and thus be prepared to apply it in the preparation of any variety of butter cake. In case a recipe contains additional ingredients, the way in which these are combined should be noted carefully and then carried out.

56. In the making of any kind of butter cake, the ingredients and utensils should be collected and conveniently placed if the best results are desired. Fig. 10 shows these assembled ready to begin the mixing. As will be observed, layer-cake pans are included in the equipment, but these may be replaced by pans of other kinds if it is not desired to make a layer cake. Before the mixing begins, grease whatever pans are to be used and then dust them lightly with flour so that they will be ready when the mixture is prepared.

57. As the first step in the making of butter cake, cream the butter in the mixing bowl, as shown in Fig. 11; that is, work it with a wooden spoon until it is soft and creamy. Then add the sugar from the measuring cup very slowly, as in Fig. 12, stirring continually so that the mixture will remain creamy. The eggs are the next ingredient to be added. These are put in whole and unbeaten, whole and beaten, or they are separated and the yolks and whites beaten separately. If the whole eggs or the yolks are to be beaten, break them into a bowl and beat them with a rotary egg beater as Fig. 13 shows. As has already been learned, the whites, when added alone, should be beaten with an egg whip. When the eggs have been added to the mixture, beat it well so as to make it as light as possible and then stir in the liquid. The mixture will then appear as in Fig. 14. Next add all the dry ingredients to the flour, and, as illustrated in Fig. 15, carefully sift all into the mixture. If desired, the liquid and flour may be added alternately, a little at a time. With all the ingredients combined, beat the mixture vigorously for a short time to make sure that everything is thoroughly mixed, and then, as shown in Fig. 16, pour it into the pans that have been greased and floured. If a two-layer or a three-layer cake is to be made, it may be divided evenly to fill two pans or three pans, but if a loaf cake is desired, all of it should be poured into one pan.

58. BAKING THE MIXTURE.--Place the pans containing the cake mixture on the bottom rack of the oven in order that it may have an opportunity to rise properly. The form in which the cake is made determines the correct temperature for the oven. Loaf cake requires more time for baking than small cakes or layer cake; consequently, the oven should not be so hot for cake of this kind as for the other types. A temperature of 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit is suitable for loaf cake, while small cakes or layer cake should have a temperature of at least 400 to 450 degrees. Be careful not to move the cake in the oven until it has risen sufficiently and has set; otherwise, it may fall when it is moved. If this precaution is observed and the cake falls, it may be known that the falling is due to a wrong proportion of ingredients and not to a draft nor the slamming of the oven door, as many housewives think. A cake that rises in the center and cracks open contains either an insufficient quantity of liquid or too much flour. If, upon being baked, a layer is higher on one side than on the other, it was probably spread unevenly in the pan before it was put in the oven or the oven rack itself was not level. This condition may be caused by uneven heat in the oven.

59. To determine whether a butter cake is baked sufficiently or not, several tests may be made. Cake of this kind does not shrink from the sides of the pan as does sponge cake, but the finger test mentioned may be applied, just as in the case of sponge cake. If, upon making a depression in the center of the butter cake, the surface springs back to fill the depression, it may be known that the cake is done. Another test consists in inserting a toothpick in the center of the cake. If it comes out clean, the cake has finished baking, but if some of the mixture sticks to the toothpick, more baking is required.

60. CARE OF BUTTER CAKE AFTER BAKING.--As soon as a butter cake is sufficiently baked, take it from the oven and remove it from the pan at once. See that the cake is loosened from the bottom and sides of the pan before attempting to turn it out. It can be loosened around the sides by means of a knife, and usually a slight shaking of the pan up and down or the inserting of the knife a little under the cake will be sufficient to loosen it from the bottom. Here the advantage of pans having removable bottoms is evident. When such pans are used, lift the cake out of the pan on the removable bottom and, as shown in Fig. 17, run a long thin knife under the cake until it is entirely loosened from the pan. Then slip the bottom out from under the cake and allow the cake to cool. A cake cooler, such as the one here shown, is the most convenient thing to use for the cooling of cakes. If one of these is not available, clean towels spread on a flat surface make a very good substitute. Allow the cake to become entirely cool before attempting to ice it.

RECIPES FOR BUTTER CAKES

61. ONE-EGG CAKE.--One of the most economical cakes that can be made is the one-egg cake given in the accompanying recipe. However, when only one egg is used, a comparatively small quantity of cake mixture is the result. If it is desired to make a layer cake of this mixture, it will be necessary to double the quantities of the ingredients.

ONE-EGG CAKE

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1-1/2 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, beat the egg, and add it. Mix and sift the flour and baking powder. Add the milk and the flour alternately until all the flour and liquid are added. Add the vanilla. Bake in a shallow loaf pan, making a single layer. Ice with any desirable icing.

62. PLAIN LAYER CAKE.--As a layer cake is usually iced over the top and contains an icing or a filling of some kind between the layers, a plain-cake mixture, such as that given in the accompanying recipe, is the most suitable kind.

PLAIN LAYER CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1-1/4 c. sugar
• 3 eggs
• 3 c. flour
• 5 tsp. baking powder
• 1 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, beat the eggs well, and add to the mixture. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add alternately with the milk, adding milk first. Add the vanilla, pour into layer-cake pans and bake. Ice with any kind of icing.

63. NUT LAYER CAKE.--A delicious cake can be made by adding nuts to the cake mixture given in the following recipe. This is baked in layers and then iced in any desired way.

NUT LAYER CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 3 eggs
• 3 c. flour
• 5 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/4 c. milk
• 3/4 c. chopped nuts
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour and baking powder together, and add the milk and the dry ingredients alternately. Fold in the chopped nuts, add the vanilla, pour into layer-cake pans, and bake.

64. CHOCOLATE NUT CAKE.--Another delightful layer cake is the chocolate nut layer cake given in the accompanying recipe. The layers are put together with a thick layer of white boiled icing, and the top one is covered with a covering of the same.

CHOCOLATE NUT CAKE

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1 c. milk
• 2 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 2 sq. chocolate
• 1/2 c. chopped nuts
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, beat the egg, and add it to the mixture. Stir in alternately the milk and the flour and baking powder. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler and stir this into the dough. Fold in the chopped nuts, add the vanilla, and bake in a loaf or two rather thin layers. If baked in layers, remove them from the pans and cool. Ice the first layer with a very thick covering of white boiled icing almost as thick as the layer itself. Place the second layer of cake on top of this and cover with another thick layer of icing.

65. SOUR-MILK CHOCOLATE CAKE.--A very good chocolate cake can be made by using sour milk instead of sweet milk. In such cake, soda takes the place of baking powder, for, as has already been learned, the leavening is produced by the action of the soda on the acid in the milk.

SOUR-MILK CHOCOLATE CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1-1/4 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 2 sq. chocolate
• 2-1/4 c. flour
• 3/4 tsp. soda
• 1 c. sour milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and cream well together. Beat the egg and add to the butter and sugar. Melt the chocolate. Sift the flour and soda together, and add to the mixture alternately with the sour milk. Beat well together and add the vanilla and melted chocolate. Pour into a loaf-cake pan and bake.

66. DEVIL'S FOOD.--Sometimes an entirely dark cake is desired. In such an event, devil's food, in which both chocolate and spices are used for flavoring, should be prepared. Such a cake is baked in a thick layer and is covered with chocolate icing.

DEVIL'S FOOD

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1-1/4 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ginger
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
• 3/4 c. milk
• 2 sq. bitter chocolate
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg together, and add the milk alternately with these dry ingredients. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler and stir into the cake mixture. Add the vanilla. Bake in a flat pan in a thick layer. Ice with chocolate icing and cut into 2-inch squares.

67. RAISIN SPICE CAKE.--Most persons are very fond of cake containing raisins and spices. A good combination of spices used for such cake is cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, cloves being used in the smallest quantity.

RAISIN SPICE CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2-1/4 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 2-1/2 tsp. spices
• 1 c. milk
• 1/2 c. raisins

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour, baking powder, and spices together, and add these alternately with the milk, adding milk first. Fold in the raisins, pour the mixture into a loaf-cake pan, and bake in a moderate oven. This cake may be served with or without icing.

68. NUT SPICE CAKE.--Nuts and spices combine very well in cake, as shown in the accompanying recipe. This cake is usually baked in a loaf pan, and may be served with or without icing.

NUT SPICE CAKE

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 tsp. ginger
• 3/4 c. milk
• 1/2 c. chopped nuts

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour, baking powder, and spices together. Add the milk and dry ingredients alternately, fold in the nuts, pour into a loaf-cake pan, and bake in a moderate oven.

69. WAR CAKE.--Cakes of almost every description contain eggs, but very good cake can be made without eggs, as in the accompanying recipe. This cake, which is known as war cake, contains only a small quantity of butter. Raisins increase its food value and spices are used for flavoring.

WAR CAKE

• 2 c. sugar
• 2 Tb. butter
• 2 c. water
• 1 lb. raisins
• 3-1/2 c. flour
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. allspice
• 1 tsp. mace
• 1 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1 tsp. soda

Boil the sugar, butter, water, and raisins together, and cool. Then to the flour add the salt, spices, and soda, and sift these into the boiled mixture. Pour into a loaf-cake pan and bake.

70. WHITE CAKE.--An ideal white cake can be made by using the whites of five eggs with the proper proportions of butter, sugar, flour, liquid, and leavening. Such a cake is usually baked in a large flat pan and then cut into squares.

WHITE CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 5 egg whites
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 3/4 c. milk
• Powdered sugar
• Shredded coconut

Cream the butter and add gradually the sugar and the beaten whites of eggs. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add alternately with the milk. Beat this mixture well. Pour into a sheet-cake pan, 9 inches by 12 inches, and cover with powdered sugar and a rather thin layer of shredded coconut. Bake for about 40 minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from the pan, cool, and serve without icing.

71. FEATHER CAKE.--A cake that is easily made and that is a general favorite is known as feather cake. As may be inferred from the name, such cake is very light in weight and tender in texture.

FEATHER CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 3 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/3 c. milk
• 1 tsp. flavoring

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour and baking powder together, and add alternately with the milk to the mixture. Add the flavoring. Beat rapidly for a few minutes, pour into a loaf-cake pan, and bake. Ice with simple white icing.

72. GOLD CAKE.--The cake given in the accompanying recipe and known as gold cake is very attractive in color, as well as appetizing in taste. To produce the gold color, only the yolks of the eggs are used. Orange extract is used for the flavoring.

GOLD CAKE

• 1/3 c. butter
• 2/3 c. sugar
• 4 egg yolks
• 1-1/4 c. flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 tsp. orange extract

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, beat the yolks of the eggs until they are thick and lemon-colored, and add them. Sift the flour and baking powder together, and add alternately with the milk. Add the orange extract and bake in a loaf-cake pan. Cover with white icing and serve.

73. ICE-CREAM CAKE.--Because of the nature of the cake here given, it is called ice-cream cake. Only the whites of the eggs are used, and so the cake is white in color. It is baked in layers and is frosted with white icing.

ICE-CREAM CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 2 c. sugar
• 1 c. milk
• 3 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 4 egg whites
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and pour in the milk. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add them. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff, fold these in, and add the vanilla. Bake in layers, and put marshmallow filling between the layers and on top. Chopped hickory nuts may also be put between the layers and spread on top if a more delicious ice-cream cake is desired.

74. CORN-STARCH CAKE.--An excellent cake will result when the following recipe is carefully worked out. It gets its name from the fact that corn starch is used for a part of the thickening. This cake is usually baked in a loaf-cake pan and then covered with icing.

CORN-STARCH CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. corn starch
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/4 c. wheat flour
• 1/2 c. milk
• 3 egg whites
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla
• 1/2 tsp. lemon extract

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Sift the corn starch, baking powder, and flour together. Add the milk and then the dry ingredients. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and fold them in. Add the vanilla and lemon extract. Bake in a loaf-cake pan. Ice with chocolate or caramel icing.

75. CINNAMON CAKE.--A cake that is inexpensive and not very rich but at the same time favored by many persons is the cinnamon cake here given. It is slightly dark in color, due to the cinnamon that is used in it. Caramel icing seems to be the most suitable for cake of this kind, but if desired white icing may be used.

CINNAMON CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1-3/4 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 2 tsp. cinnamon

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, and add them to the mixture. Stir in the milk. Sift the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon together and add these. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff, and fold them into the cake dough. Bake in layers or in a loaf and ice with white or caramel icing.

76. POUND CAKE.--Often a cake that will keep for some time is desired. In such an event, pound cake should be made, for it will remain fresh for a long period of time if it is stored in a closely covered receptacle. It is usually served without any icing and is cut into small, thin slices. The recipe here given makes enough cake for two loaf-cake pans.

POUND CAKE

• 1/2 c. finely cut citron
• 5 eggs
• 2/3 c. butter
• 2 c. flour
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. mace

Steam the citron until it is soft, cut into thin strips, and then into small pieces. Cream the butter until it is white, sift the sugar in slowly, and beat the two until the sugar is dissolved. Add the eggs one at a time without previously beating them, and beat each egg in thoroughly before the other is added. Stir in the flour and mace and bake in a very slow oven, in one large or two small loaf-cake pans.

77. CARAMEL CAKE.--Cake flavored with caramel affords a change from the usual varieties of cake. The caramel used for this cake should be prepared in the manner explained in Cold and Frozen Desserts.

CARAMEL CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 3 Tb. caramel
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2/3 c. water
• 3 egg whites
• 2 egg yolks

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Add the caramel, water, and beaten egg yolks. Stir in the flour and baking powder sifted together. Add the vanilla and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in layers. Ice with any kind of white icing.

78. JELLY ROLL.--Many housewives do not attempt to make jelly roll, because they consider it a difficult matter. However, no trouble will be experienced in making excellent jelly roll if the following recipe is carried out explicitly.

JELLY ROLL

• 3 eggs
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1 c. sugar
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1/2 Tb. milk
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 c. flour

Beat the eggs until light, add the sugar gradually, and continue beating. Stir in the milk, and then add the flour, which has been sifted with the baking powder and salt. Melt the butter and beat into the cake mixture. Line the bottom of a flat pan with paper, and grease the paper and the sides of the pan. Cover the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of the mixture spread evenly. Bake until done in a moderate oven. Remove from the pan at once, and turn out on paper sprinkled thickly with powdered sugar. Remove the paper from the bottom of the cake, and cut off a thin strip as far as the crust extends in on the sides and ends of the cake. Spread with a thick layer of jelly and roll. After the cake has been rolled, place a piece of paper around it, wrap in a slightly dampened napkin or towel, and allow it to stand until it cools. Unless the rolling is done as soon as the paper has been removed from it, the cake is likely to crack.

79. LADY BALTIMORE CAKE.--If an excellent cake for a special occasion is desired, Lady Baltimore cake should be served. It is made in layers, between which a filling containing fruit and nuts is spread. A white icing of any desirable kind is used to cover the cake.

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 c. sugar
• 3 egg whites
• 3/4 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2 c. flour

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and continue creaming. Stir in the milk. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add them. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and add the vanilla. Bake in square layer pans or in two thick layers in loaf-cake pans. When cold, fill with the following filling and ice with any desirable white icing.

FILLING FOR LADY BALTIMORE CAKE

• 2 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. figs or dates, chopped
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 c. chopped nuts
• 1 c. raisins, chopped

Cook the sugar and milk until it forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water. Remove from the fire and cool. Beat until it begins to look creamy, and then add the raisins, figs or dates, and nuts. When stiff enough, spread a thick layer on one layer of the cake, place the other layer of cake on top, and cover with a thin layer of white icing.

80. BRIDES CAKE.--When a bride's cake is mentioned, one naturally thinks of a large, round cake entirely covered with thick, white icing. The cake here given is one of this kind, and in addition may be ornamented in any desired way. Besides being very attractive in appearance, this cake is delicious in taste.

BRIDE'S CAKE

• 1/2 c. butter
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/2 c. sugar
• 6 egg whites
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
• 2 and 1/2 c. flour
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and stir in the milk. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add to the mixture. Beat the egg whites until they are foamy. Add the cream of tartar to them and beat until stiff. Fold in the egg whites, add the vanilla, and bake in a deep, round pan. Cover with plain white frosting and ornament with icing in any desired way.

81. FRUIT CAKE.--In the preparations for Christmas festivities, fruit cake usually has an important place. But besides being very appropriate cake for the holiday season, fruit cake is a splendid cake to make because of its keeping qualities. It may be kept for a long time if it is properly cared for. The best plan is to wrap it in oiled paper and then put it away in a closely covered receptacle, such as a tin box. In fact, fruit cake is much better if it is baked a month before it is to be eaten and is moistened several times during that time by pouring over it and allowing to soak in a few teaspoonfuls of orange juice or diluted grape juice.

FRUIT CAKE

• 3/4 c. raisins
• 1/2 c. milk
• 3/4 c. currants
• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 c. finely cut citron
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. allspice
• 2 eggs
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 c. molasses
• 1/4 tsp. cloves

First prepare the fruits for the cake. Cream the butter, stir in the sugar gradually, add the eggs unbeaten, and continue beating. Add the molasses, milk, and flour with which the soda and spices have been sifted, and then fold the fruits, which have been prepared, into this mixture. Another way of adding the fruit is to pour a layer of the cake mixture into the cake pan, sprinkle this generously with the fruit, then another layer of dough and another layer of fruit, and finally a layer of dough with just a little fruit sprinkled on top. Whichever plan is followed, prepare the pan by covering the bottom with 1/2 inch of flour and then placing a piece of greased paper over this. This heavy layer of flour prevents the cake from burning. Put the cake in a very moderate oven and bake for about 2 hours. If a fruit cake without a heavy crust is desired, the mixture may be steamed for 3 hours in an ordinary steamer and then placed in the oven just long enough to dry the surface.

82. WHITE FRUIT CAKE.--While dark fruit cake is popular with the majority of persons, white fruit cake has been coming into favor for some time and is now made extensively. It contains a larger variety of fruit than the dark cake and nuts are also used. Cake of this kind may be baked in the oven or steamed.

WHITE FRUIT CAKE

• 1/4 lb. citron, cut into thin slices
• 1/2 lb. apricots, dried, steamed, and chopped
• 1/2 lb. raisins, chopped
• 1/2 lb. candied cherries, cut into pieces
• 1/2 lb. dates, chopped
• 1/2 lb. almonds, blanched and cut into thin strips
• 1 c. butter
• 1 c. brown sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 Tb. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
• 2 c. flour

Steam the citron and apricots until they are soft, and then cut them in the required manner. Prepare the other fruits and the almonds. Cream the butter, add the sugar, egg, and milk, and beat thoroughly. Sift the baking powder and spices with the flour and add these. Dredge the fruits and nuts with flour and fold them into the mixture. Bake for 2 hours in a slow oven in small loaf pans lined with paper and containing about a 1/2 inch layer of flour in the bottom, or steam for 3 hours and then bake for a short time in a moderate oven.

83. WEDDING CAKE.--Fruit cake has been used so much for wedding cake that it has come to be the established cake for this purpose. However, when fruit cake is to be used for weddings, a richer variety is generally made, as will be observed from the ingredients listed in the accompanying recipe. Wedding cake is usually cut into small pieces and presented to the guests in dainty white boxes.

WEDDING CAKE

• 2 lb. sultana raisins
• 1 lb. dates, chopped
• 1 lb. citron, cut into thin strips
• 1 lb. figs, chopped
• 1 lb. butter
• 1 lb. sugar
• 8 eggs
• 1 lb. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. allspice
• 1/2 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 c. grape juice

Prepare the fruits and dredge with one-third cupful of the flour. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and beat together thoroughly. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks until they are thick and lemon-colored, and add to the sugar and butter. Sift the flour, soda, and spices together, and add to the mixture. Fold in the egg whites beaten stiff, add the grape juice, and fold in the fruits. Bake in the same way as fruit cake.

CAKE ICINGS AND FILLINGS

NATURE, PURPOSE, AND APPLICATION

84. Certain varieties of cakes are served plain, but the majority of cakes are usually covered with a sugar mixture of some description known as icing. In addition, if a cake is baked in layers, a filling, which may be either the same as the icing used for the covering or a mixture resembling a custard, is put between the layers to hold them together. These icings and fillings are used for the purpose of improving both the taste and the appearance of the cake, as well as for the purpose of retaining the moisture in it. Some of them are very simple, consisting merely of powdered sugar mixed with a liquid, while others are more elaborate and involve a number of ingredients. They may be spread over the cake, put on thick in a level manner, or arranged in fancy designs on a plain background of simple icing with the use of a pastry tube or a paper cornucopia. These decorations may be made in white or in various colors to suit the design selected for decoration.

85. It is well to understand just what cakes may be served without icings and fillings and what ones are improved by these accompaniments. Sponge cakes, as a rule, are not iced elaborately, for a heavy icing does not harmonize with the light texture of this kind of cake. If anything is desired, a simple sugar icing is used or the surface of the cake is moistened with the white of egg and then sprinkled with sugar. Butter cakes, especially when baked in layers, although they are often much richer than sponge cakes, are usually iced. When they are baked in the form of loaf cakes, they may or may not be iced, as desired. Very rich cakes made in loaf-cake form are usually served without icing, unless they are served whole and it is desired to make them attractive for a special occasion.

86. For the most part, icings are put on plain, as in Fig. 18, but there are some occasions for which an attractively decorated cake is desired. For instance, birthday cakes, wedding cakes, or cakes for parties and dinners are often served whole from the table, and when this is done, the cake should be made as attractive as possible. The work of decorating such cakes may prove somewhat difficult at first, but just a little practice in this direction will produce surprising results. Figs. 19 and 20 show what can be done in the way of decoration with very little effort. The cake shown in Fig. 19 is suitable for a special occasion, such as a party, while the one in Fig. 20 is a birthday cake.

These cakes are first covered with a plain white icing and then decorated in any colors desired. The candle holders on the birthday cake, which may be purchased in various colors, correspond in color with the decoration on the cake. Original ideas and designs may thus be worked out in an attractive way to match a color scheme or carry out a decorative idea. A pastry tube is the most satisfactory utensil for this purpose, but a tiny paper cornucopia made of stiff white paper may be used to advantage for the decoration of small cakes and even for certain designs on large ones.

87. The cake that comes out of the pan with a smooth surface is the one to which an icing or a filling may be applied most satisfactorily. Unless absolutely necessary, the cake should not be cut nor broken in any way before it is iced, as a cut surface is apt to crumble and produce a rough appearance. If the cake must be cut, as is the case when small fancy shapes are made out of baked cake, the pieces should be glazed with a coating of egg white mixed with a very small quantity of sugar and beaten just enough to incorporate the sugar. Then, if they are allowed to dry for 4 or 5 hours before being iced, no crumbs will mix with the icing.

CAKE ICINGS AND THEIR PREPARATION

88. VARIETIES OF ICINGS.--Icings are of two varieties: those which require cooking and those whose ingredients are not cooked. In uncooked icings, which are easily made, sugar, such as confectioner's, is moistened with a liquid of some kind and then flavored in various ways. The more common of the cooked varieties are made by beating a hot sugar sirup into well-beaten egg whites. After being flavored, icings of this kind may be used without the addition of other ingredients or they may be combined with fruits, nuts, coconut, etc.

89. UNCOOKED ICINGS.--Confectioner's sugar is the most satisfactory for uncooked icings, and it is the kind most commonly used for this purpose. The finer this sugar can be secured, the better will the icing be, XXXX being the most desirable. As such sugar forms very hard lumps when it is allowed to stand, it should be rolled and sifted before it is mixed with the other ingredients. The material used to moisten the sugar may be lemon juice or some other fruit juice, water, milk, cream, egg white, butter, or a combination of these. Enough liquid should be used to make the icing thin enough to spread easily.

90. The ingredients used in uncooked icings determine to a certain extent the utensils required to make the icings. A fine-mesh wire sifter should be used to sift the sugar. A bowl of the proper size to mix the materials should be selected, and a wooden spoon should also be secured for this purpose, although a silver spoon will answer if a wooden one is not in supply. To spread the mixture on the cake, a silver knife produces the best results. If the icing is to be put on in ornamental way, the equipment already mentioned, that is, a pastry bag or a paper cornucopia, should be provided.

COLD-WATER ICING

• 1 c. confectioner's sugar
• 2 Tb. cold water
• 1 tsp. lemon juice

Add the sugar to the water and lemon juice, beat together thoroughly, and spread on any desired cake.

PLAIN ICING

• 1 egg white
• 1-1/4 c. confectioner's sugar
• 2 tsp. cold water
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Beat the white of the egg until it is stiff. Sift in the sugar and add a little of the water occasionally until all the water and sugar are added. Beat together thoroughly, add the flavoring, and spread on the cake.

ORANGE ICING

• 1-1/2 c. confectioner's sugar
• 4 Tb. orange juice
• Few drops orange extract
• Orange coloring for tinting

Sift the sugar into the orange juice and beat thoroughly. Add the orange extract and just a little of the orange coloring for an even tint. Spread on the cake.

CHOCOLATE WATER ICING

• 1 sq. chocolate
• 3 Tb. boiling water
• 1-1/2 c. pulverized sugar
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the boiling water and the sugar, and stir together until smooth. Add the vanilla. Spread on the cake.

WHITE ICING

• 2 egg whites
• 1-1/4 c. confectioner's sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Beat the egg whites until they are stiff, sift in the powdered sugar, add the vanilla, and beat together until the icing is of a consistency to spread.

BUTTER ICING

• 1 Tb. butter
• 1-1/2 c. powdered sugar
• 1 Tb. cream
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla
• 1 egg white

Cream the butter, add the sugar, diluting it with the cream, and add the vanilla. Beat the egg white and add to the mixture, continuing the beating until the mixture is dry and ready to spread.

CHOCOLATE BUTTER ICING

• 1 Tb. butter
• 1-1/2 c. powdered sugar
• 3 Tb. milk
• 1/2 egg
• 1 oz. chocolate
• Vanilla

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually, moistening with the milk and egg to make the mixture thin enough to spread. Melt the chocolate in a saucepan over hot water and pour into the icing mixture. Add the vanilla. Beat thoroughly and if more sugar or liquid is needed to make the icing thicker or thinner, add until it is of the right consistency to spread.

ORNAMENTAL ICING

• 3 egg whites
• 3 c. confectioner's sugar
• 3 tsp. lemon juice

Put the egg whites into a bowl, add a little of the sugar, and beat. Continue adding sugar until the mixture becomes too thick to beat well, and then add the lemon juice. Add the remainder of the sugar, and continue beating until the icing is thick enough to spread. Spread a thin layer over the cake and allow it to harden. When this is dry, cover it with another layer to make a smooth surface, and add more sugar to the remaining icing until it is of a very stiff consistency. Color and flavor as desired, place in a pastry bag, and force through pastry tubes to make any desired designs.

[Illustration: FIG. 21, Assembling layer cake.]

91. COOKED ICINGS.--A few cooked icings are made without egg whites, but for the most part icings of this kind consist of a sugar sirup beaten into egg whites that have been whipped until they are stiff. Success in making icing of this kind depends largely on boiling the sirup to just the right degree, for when this is done the icing will remain for a short time in a condition to be handled. If the sirup is not cooked long enough, the icing will not stiffen and it will have to be mixed with powdered sugar to make it dry. In the event of its being boiled too long, the icing will have to be applied quickly, for it is likely to become sugary. A thermometer is a convenient utensil to use in making icings of this kind, for with it the housewife can determine just when the sirup is boiled to the right point. However, after the housewife has had a little experience, excellent results can be achieved in the way of icings without a thermometer if the mixture is tested carefully. The beating of cooked icings also has much to do with the nature of the finished product. They should be beaten until they are of just the proper consistency to spread and still will not run off the surface of the cake.

92. Because of the nature of cooked icings, it is necessary that the work of applying them to cakes be completed as quickly as possible. A case knife or a spatula is the best utensil for this purpose.

To ice a layer cake, pour some of the icing on the layer that is desired for the bottom and then spread it over the layer quickly until it is smooth and as thick as desired. If coconut or any other ingredient, such as chopped nuts or fruit, is to be used, sprinkle it on the icing as in Fig. 21. Then take up the second layer carefully, as shown, and place it on the iced first layer. Pour the remainder of the icing on this layer and spread it evenly over the top and down the sides, as shown in Fig. 22. The cake will then be covered with a plain white icing that will be sufficient in itself or that may serve as a basis for any desired ornament. If coconut, fruit, or nuts have been used between the layers, sprinkle the same over the top, as shown in Fig. 23, while the icing is still soft.

[Illustration: FIG. 22, Icing layer cake.]

Sometimes, after the icing has been spread, it may be found that the surface is not so smooth as it should be. Any roughness that may occur, however, may be removed as soon as the icing has become entirely cold by dipping a clean silver knife into hot water and, as shown in Fig. 24, running it gently over the entire surface. This treatment takes only a little time and greatly improves the appearance of the cake.

CARAMEL ICING

• 1 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 3/4 c. milk
• 1/2 Tb. butter

Boil the ingredients together until a soft ball is formed when the mixture is tried in cold water. Cool and beat until of the right consistency to spread. Spread this icing rather thin. If desired chopped nuts may be added to it while it is being beaten.

MAPLE ICING

Maple icing may be made by following the recipe given for caramel icing, with the exception of using maple sugar in place of the brown sugar.

BOILED ICING

• 1 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. water
• 1 egg white
• Pinch of cream of tartar

Put the sugar and water to cook in a saucepan. Boil until a fairly hard ball is formed when the sirup is tried in cold water or until it threads when dropped from a spoon, as shown in Fig. 25. If a thermometer is used to test the sirup, it should register 240 to 242 degrees Fahrenheit when the sirup is taken from the stove. Beat the egg white, add the cream of tartar, and continue beating until the egg white is stiff. Then, as in Fig. 26, pour the hot sirup over the beaten egg white very slowly, so as not to cook the egg, beating rapidly until all the sirup has been added.

Continue to beat with a spoon or egg whip until the icing is light and almost stiff enough to spread on the cake, as in Fig. 27. Then place the bowl over a vessel containing boiling water, as in Fig. 28, and beat for 3 or 4 minutes while the water boils rapidly underneath. With this treatment, the icing will not change in consistency, but will become easier to handle and will permit of being used for a longer period of time without becoming hard. In fact, it may be kept until the next day if desired by placing a moist cloth over the top of the bowl so as to prevent a crust from forming.

CHOCOLATE ICING

If chocolate icing is desired, a square of melted chocolate may be added to the icing given in the preceding recipe after the sirup has been added to the egg white.

BROWN-SUGAR BOILED ICING

• 1-1/4 c. brown sugar
• 1/4 c. white sugar
• 1/3 c. water
• 2 egg whites
• Pinch of cream of tartar

Boil the sugar and the water until it threads or forms a fairly hard ball when tried in cold water.

Beat the egg whites until stiff, adding a pinch of cream of tartar while beating. Pour the hot sirup over the egg whites and continue beating. Flavor with vanilla if desired. Beat until stiff enough to spread and, if desired, cook over boiling water as described for boiled white icing.

TIME-SAVING ICING

• 7/8 c. granulated sugar
• 3 Tb. water
• 1 egg white

Put the sugar, water, and egg white into the upper part of a small double boiler. Have the water in the lower part boiling rapidly. Set the part containing the ingredients in place and beat constantly for 7 minutes with a rotary egg beater, when a cooked frosting that will remain in place will be ready for use. The water in the lower receptacle must be boiling rapidly throughout the 7 minutes.

CAKE FILLINGS

93. As already explained, any icing used for the top of the cake may also be used for the filling that is put between the layers, but often, to obtain variety, an entirely different mixture is used for this purpose. A number of recipes for cake fillings are here given, and from these the housewife can select the one that seems best suited to the cake with which it is to be used. As will be noted, many of them are similar to custard mixtures, and these, in addition to being used for cakes, may be used for filling cream puffs and Éclairs. Others contain fruit, or nuts, or both, while still others resemble icing, with the exception of being softer. No difficulty will be experienced in making any of these fillings if the directions are carefully followed. They should be applied to the cake in the same way as icings.

FRENCH FILLING

• 2 c. milk
• 1 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. flour
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 2 eggs
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 1/2 tsp. lemon extract

Heat the milk to scalding in a double boiler. Mix the sugar, flour, and salt. Pour the hot milk over this, and stir rapidly to prevent the formation of lumps. Return to the double boiler and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Beat the eggs slightly and add them to the mixture. Cook for 5 minutes longer. Add the flavoring, cool, and place between layers of cake or use for filling cream puffs or Éclairs. Half of the recipe will be sufficient for cake filling.

CHOCOLATE FILLING

If chocolate filling is desired, melt 1-1/2 squares of chocolate and add to the French filling while it is hot.

COFFEE FILLING

A very good coffee filling may be made by scalding 2 tablespoonfuls of coffee with the milk, straining to remove the grounds, and then adding to French filling for flavoring.

FRUIT CREAM FILLING

• 2/3 c. heavy cream
• 1/4 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. crushed raspberries, strawberries, peaches, or any desirable fresh fruit

Whip the cream until stiff, add the sugar, and fold in the crushed fruit. Place between layers of cake.

RAISIN-AND-NUT FILLING

• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/4 c. water
• 1/2 c. raisins
• 1/4 c. chopped nuts

Boil the sugar and water until they form a firm ball when tried in cold water. Chop the raisins and nuts and add them to the sirup. Cook until stiff enough not to run, and place between layers of cake.

COCONUT FILLING

• 1 c. milk
• 1/2 c. shredded coconut
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 2 Tb. corn starch
• 1 egg

Heat the milk to scalding with the coconut. Mix the sugar and corn starch, pour the hot milk into it, and stir rapidly so as to prevent lumps from forming. Cook for 15 or 20 minutes. Beat the egg slightly, add to the mixture, and cook for 5 minutes more. Cool and spread between layers of cake.

LEMON FILLING

• 2 Tb. corn starch
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. boiling water
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 lemon
• 1 egg

Mix the corn starch and sugar, and add to this the boiling water. Put to cook in a double boiler, add the butter, the grated rind of the lemon, and cook for 15 or 20 minutes. Beat the egg slowly, add to the mixture, and cook for 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat and add the juice of the lemon. Cool and spread between layers of cake.

ORANGE FILLING

Orange filling may be made by using grated orange rind in place of the lemon in the recipe for lemon filling and 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of orange juice.

MARSHMALLOW FILLING

• 2-1/2 c. sugar
• 3/4 c. hot water
• 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1 egg white

Boil the sugar, water, and cream of tartar until the sirup threads. Beat the egg white until stiff, add the sirup slowly so as not to cook the egg, and beat constantly until thick enough to spread on the cake without running. This may be used for icing, as well as filling.

CAKES, COOKIES, AND PUDDINGS (PART 1)
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS

(1) Discuss briefly the use of cake in the diet.

(2) What leavening materials are used in cake making?

(3) (a) What are the two general classes of cakes? (b) In what way do they differ?

(4) Of what value in cake making are pans with removable bottoms?

(5) Give the various steps up to mixing in making a cake.

(6) How should pans be prepared for: (a) butter cakes? (b) sponge cakes?

(7) Give the general proportion of ingredients for sponge cake.

(8) Give the order necessary for combining the ingredients in sponge cake.

(9) (a) Describe the baking of sponge cake. (b) How can you tell when sponge cake is ready to be taken out of the oven?

(10) When and how is sponge cake taken from the pan in which it is baked?

(11) (a) Give the general proportion of liquid and flour used for butter cake. (b) What makes this proportion vary?

(12) Give the steps necessary for mixing the ingredients of butter cake.

(13) Describe the baking of butter cake.

(14) (a) How can you tell when butter cake is sufficiently baked? (b) How is it removed from the pan and cooled?

(15) What is the value of cake icing?

(16) (a) What ingredients are used to make the simplest icings? (b) What kind of sugar is best for uncooked icings?

(17) What kind of icing should be used for sponge cake? Tell why.

(18) How is the surface of a cake that is to be decorated with an ornamental design prepared?

(19) (a) Describe the icing of a layer cake. (b) How may a rough surface of icing be made smooth?

(20) (a) Tell how boiled icing is made. (b) What is the test for determining when the sirup is boiled sufficiently?

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CAKES, COOKIES, AND PUDDINGS (PART 2)

SMALL CAKES

VARIETIES OF SMALL CAKES

1. Under the heading Small Cakes are included numerous varieties of cakes made of many different kinds of materials and baked in various shapes and sizes. Some of them, such as meringues and kisses, contain nothing except eggs and sugar and consequently are almost confections. On the other hand, many of them, including cookies of all kinds, drop cakes, ladyfingers, etc., are merely the usual sponge and butter-cake mixtures altered in such ways as may be desired. In addition, there are cream puffs and Éclairs, the various kinds of cakes made with yeast, and doughnuts and crullers, all of which, while not exactly cake mixtures, are similar enough to small cakes in preparation and use to be discussed in connection with them.

2. NATURE OF MIXTURES FOR SMALL CAKES.--The mixtures used for small cakes are made into batters and doughs of various thicknesses. For instance, the batter used for cup cakes is as thin as that for layer cake; that for drop cakes must be stiff enough to hold its shape when it is dropped on a flat sheet; while cookies require a dough that is stiff enough to be rolled out in a thin layer and then cut into various shapes with cutters. The mixing of cakes of this kind differs in no way from that of large cakes, the greater thickness being obtained merely by the addition of flour.

3. BAKING SMALL CAKES.--Small cakes bake more quickly than large ones; consequently, a hotter oven is required for them. Cookies will bake in 10 to 15 minutes. They should rise and start to brown in 1/2 of this time, and should finish browning and shrink slightly in the remaining half. Drop cakes require a little more time than cookies. They should rise during the first third of the time, brown slightly during the second, and finish browning and shrink during the last third. Cup cakes being larger require from 15 to 25 minutes to bake, depending on their size. They should rise and brown in the same way as drop cakes. The baking of most of the other varieties demands special attention and is discussed in connection with the cakes themselves.

When the majority of small cakes, including cookies, are put into the oven to bake, they should be set on the lower rack. Then, when the browning has started, they should be changed to the upper rack, where they will brown more quickly. This transfer may also be necessary in the case of the larger sized cup cakes.

Small cakes baked in muffin pans should be allowed to stand for several minutes after being removed from the oven in order to cool. Then a knife or a spatula should be run around the edge to loosen each cake from the pan. If the pan is then turned upside down and tapped lightly once or twice, the cakes will, as a rule, come out in good condition. Cookies and drop cakes should be taken from their pans or sheets while warm and then allowed to cool on a cake cooler or on clean towels spread on a table.

PREPARATION OF SMALL CAKES

CUP AND DROP CAKES

4. NATURE OF CUP AND DROP CAKES.--CUP CAKES are a variety of small cakes baked in muffin pans. Many of the mixtures used for large cakes may be made into cup cakes by baking them in pans of this kind. Instead of pouring the mixture into the pans from the bowl, as is done in the case of large cakes, it is put into them by means of a spoon, as shown in Fig. 1. The pans should be filled only about half full in order to give the mixture an opportunity to rise. When the cakes are baked, they usually reach the top of the pans.

5. Cup cakes may be served plain or they may be iced in any desired way. Fig. 2 shows a group of cakes of this kind, the three on the right being cup cakes without any icing or decoration and the rest, cup cakes iced and then decorated in a variety of ways. As will be observed, cup cakes lend themselves well to decoration. The materials used here for the decorating are chiefly citron and maraschino cherries, both of which may be cut into a variety of shapes. The cakes are first covered with a white icing for a foundation, and the decorative materials are applied before it becomes dry. Other materials may, of course, be used for decorating cup cakes, and original designs may be worked out in a number of attractive ways.

6. DROP CAKES differ from cup cakes in that a stiffer batter is used and the mixture is then dropped from a spoon on a greased and floured cooky sheet. As shown in Fig. 3, which illustrates a plate of drop cakes ready to serve, cakes of this kind are not generally iced. However, the mixture used for them often contains fruits and nuts.

7. RECIPES FOR CUP AND DROP CAKES.--Several recipes for cup cakes and drop cakes are here given. No difficulty will be experienced in carrying out any of them if the suggestions already given are applied. With each recipe is mentioned the approximate number of cakes the recipe will make. The exact number it will produce will depend, of course, on the size of the cakes; the smaller they are the greater will be their number.

CUP CAKES
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 2/3 c. butter
• 2 c. sugar
• 4 eggs
• 3-1/4 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. mace
• 1 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter and add the sugar. Beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour, baking powder, and mace together, and add alternately with the milk. Flavor with the vanilla, put into greased and floured muffin pans, and bake. Cover with chocolate icing and serve.

BROWNIES
(Sufficient for 1 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/3 c. butter
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1/3 c. molasses
• 1 egg
• 1-1/4 c. flour
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/3 tsp. soda
• 1/2 c. chopped nut meats

Cream the butter, add the sugar and molasses, beat the egg and add it. Mix the flour, baking powder, and soda together, and sift into the mixture. Fold in the chopped nut meats, put in thin layers into muffin pans, and bake in a hot oven until done. Remove from the pans, cool, and serve.

CINNAMON CUP CAKES
(Sufficient for 1 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 2 c. flour
• 1 Tb. cinnamon
• 1/2 c. milk

Cream the butter and add the sugar. Beat the eggs and add them. Sift the baking powder, flour, and cinnamon together, and add alternately with the milk. Put into greased and floured muffin pans and bake.

COCOA CUP CAKES
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/3 c. shortening
• 1-1/4 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 c. cocoa
• 1/8 tsp. soda
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 3/4 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the shortening and add the sugar. Beat the eggs and add them. Sift the flour, cocoa, soda, and baking powder together and add alternately with the milk. Flavor with the vanilla, put into greased and floured muffin pans, and bake in a hot oven. Remove from the pans, cool, and serve. If desired, these cakes may be iced with white icing and sprinkled with coconut.

ROXBURY CAKES
(Sufficient for 1 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. molasses
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1-3/4 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 3/4 c. raisins
• 1/2 c. English walnut meats

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs and add them. Add the molasses and milk. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and stir these into the first mixture. Fold in the finely chopped raisins and nuts. Bake in a moderate oven and ice with white icing.

APPLE-SAUCE CAKES
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. cloves
• 1 tsp. nutmeg
• 1 c. apple sauce
• 1 c. raisins

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Sift the dry ingredients together and add alternately with the apple sauce made according to the following directions. Stir in the raisins dredged with a little of the flour. Bake in muffin pans in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes.

APPLE SAUCE

• 1 qt. apples
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 c. water

Peel and quarter the apples. Put them to cook in the water. When soft, force through a sieve, add the sugar, and return to the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Cool and use for the cakes.

SOUR-MILK DROP CAKES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/3 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/2 c. sour milk
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 c. nut meats
• 1/2 c. raisins

Cream the butter and add the sugar, the beaten egg, and the milk. Sift the flour, soda, and baking powder together and add them. Fold in the nuts and raisins. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased and floured cake sheet. Bake rather slowly, remove from the sheet, cool, and serve.

FRUIT DROP CAKES
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/3 c. shortening
• 2/3 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/4 c. milk
• 1-3/4 c. flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 c. raisins

Cream the shortening and add the sugar, egg, and milk. Sift the flour, baking powder, and spices together. Sift these dry ingredients into the mixture and add the raisins. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased and floured cake sheet and bake in a hot oven until light brown.

OAT-FLAKE DROP CAKES
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 2 c. oat flakes
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 c. milk

Cream the shortening and add the sugar. Beat the egg and add to the mixture. Add the oat flakes and vanilla. Sift the flour, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon together and add alternately with the milk. Drop on greased pans to bake.

GINGER DROP CAKES
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 1 egg
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 Tb. ginger
• 1/2 c. sour milk
• 1/2 c. molasses

Cream the shortening, add the sugar, and mix well. Beat the egg and add it. Sift the dry ingredients and add alternately with the milk and molasses. Drop on greased sheets and bake in a moderate oven for about 15 or 20 minutes.

8. APPLYING ORNAMENTAL ICING TO CUP CAKES.--Sometimes it is desired to put icing on cup cakes in an ornamental way. In such an event, an uncooked icing is used and it is usually applied by means of a pastry tube, although certain simple designs can be made with a small paper cornucopia. When icing is to be used for this purpose, it should be of the consistency shown in Fig. 4; that is, it should be so heavy that a large quantity of it will cling to the spoon, and when it drops it will fall in a mass rather than run off.

Have the pastry bag clean and dry, and make it ready for use by slipping the pastry tube inside of the bag, as shown in Fig. 5. The point of the tube should protrude from the narrow end of the bag, which is too small to allow the top of the tube to be pushed through. The cakes to be decorated with the aid of a pastry tube are usually prepared, as the cake in the illustration shows, by covering it with a perfectly smooth coating of uncooked icing of some kind.

With the tube inserted and the cake coated, the work of decorating may be taken up. Roll the top of the bag down, as shown in Fig. 6, and into it put as much of the icing as is desired. See that the icing is pushed as far down into the end of the bag as possible. Then, as in Fig. 7, hold the top of the bag shut with one hand and with the other grasp it at the place where the contents end. When the hands have been so placed, press down on the bag so that the icing will be forced from the point of the tube. To make the decorations most satisfactorily, have the point of the tube pressed tightly against the surface of the cake and raise it very slowly as the icing comes out. Otherwise the shape of the design will not be good, as a little experimenting will prove. The rosette tube is used to make the decorations here shown, but if a different form of decoration is desired, one of the other tubes may be selected.

9. With cakes of this kind, it is often desired to have a simple decoration without first applying the foundation icing. This can be done, as shown in Fig. 8, by pressing icing through a pastry bag containing the rosette tube and placing the decoration merely on the center of each cake. This is suggested as an economical use of icing and a decoration a little out of the ordinary. The points of the pastry tube should be bent toward the center in order to produce the rosettes in the manner here shown. In fact, the shape of a rosette can often be changed to some extent by opening or closing these points a trifle.

COOKIES

10. CLASSES OF COOKIES.--Cookies are of two general classes: those which are made thick and are expected to be soft when they are served and those which are made thin and are intended to be crisp and brittle when eaten. Thin, crisp cookies are usually known as wafers or snaps. Soft cookies are made from a dough that contains a little more liquid than that used for brittle cookies. The dough of which both varieties are made should be thick enough to remove from the mixing bowl in a lump and roll out on a board. After being rolled until it is the desired thickness, it is cut into pieces of any desired size and shape and baked in the oven on large flat pans.

11. INGREDIENTS IN COOKIES.--The ingredients used in the making of cookies are similar to those used for drop cakes, with the exception of the amount of flour. In fact, any cooky mixture that is made a little more moist by omitting some of the flour may be used for drop cakes. More flour is needed in cooky mixtures because they must be of a certain thickness in order to be rolled out successfully. The amount of flour needed varies with the kind that is used, more of some varieties of this ingredient being required than of others. It is usually advisable to add the last cup of flour with caution. If the mixture seems to be getting stiff before all the flour is added, what is not needed should be omitted; but if it does not become stiff enough to handle, more should be added.

12. Considerable variety exists in the shortening that may be used in cooky mixtures. If desired, butter may be used, but for most cookies it is not at all necessary that the shortening consist entirely of butter, and for some no butter at all is required. Other fats and oils, such as lard, Crisco, lard compound, Mazola, cottoline, butterine, and any other tasteless shortening, may be substituted for all or part of the butter. Any of the following cooky recipes that contain butter do so because that particular cooky or cake is better when made with butter, but, if desired, some other fat may be used for a part or all of it. In case merely shortening is mentioned, any fat or mixture of fats preferred may be used.

13. PROCEDURE IN MAKING COOKIES.--The combining of the ingredients in cooky mixtures need give the housewife very little concern, for it is accomplished in much the same way as for cup and drop cakes. When all of them have been combined, a dough that is stiff enough to handle and still not so stiff that it is tough should be formed. The chief precaution to be taken in the making of all kinds of cookies is to avoid getting too much flour into the mixture. To produce the best results, the mixture should be so soft that it is difficult to handle. A good plan is to allow it to become very cold, for then it will be much stiffer and may be handled more easily. Therefore, after the dough has been mixed, it is well to set it in a refrigerator or some other cool place and let it stand for several hours before attempting to roll it. In fact, a cooky mixture may be made in the evening and allowed to stand until the next morning before being rolled out and baked. As can readily be understood, such procedure is possible with a stiff mixture like that for cookies, while it would not be practicable with a thin mixture, such as cake batter, because the gas that is formed by the leavening agent would escape from a mixture that is not thick and the cake, after being baked, would have no lightness.

14. With the dough ready to be rolled, divide it into amounts of a size that can be handled conveniently at one time. Take one of these from the mixing bowl and place it on a well-floured board. Work it with the fingers into a flat, round piece, using a little flour on the fingers during this process. Dust the top lightly with flour and, by means of a rolling pin, roll the dough into a flat piece that is as nearly round as possible. Continue rolling with a short, light stroke until the dough is as thin as desired. Remember that light, careful handling is always necessary when any kind of dough mixture is rolled on the board, and that as little handling as possible is advisable. Skill in this respect will come with practice, so the housewife need not be discouraged if she has difficulty at first. For cookies, 1/4 inch is the usual thickness of the dough after it is rolled; but for snaps or wafers the dough should be rolled as thin as possible. If the dough is as moist as it should be, it may be necessary, from time to time, to dust the top with flour as the rolling continues. However, no more flour should be used than is needed to keep the rolling pin from sticking; otherwise, the dough will become too thick and the cookies will be tough and dry.

15. When the dough has been rolled until it is of the right thickness, cut it in the manner shown in Fig. 9, using cooky cutters of any desired size and shape. The four cutters shown, which are heart, round, diamond, and star shapes, are the ones that are most commonly used. They are merely strips of tin bent into a particular shape and attached to a handle for convenience in using. In cutting the dough, try to cut it to the best possible advantage, leaving as little space between the cookies as possible. Very often, as, for instance, when diamond-shaped cookies are being cut, the line of one may be the exact line of the one next to it and thus no dough need be left between the cookies.

16. However, as Fig. 9 shows, a certain amount of dough necessarily remains after all the cookies that can be made out of a piece of rolled dough have been cut. Put these scraps together and set them aside until all the fresh dough has been rolled. Then put them together carefully, roll them out again, and cut the piece thus formed into cookies just as the others were cut. Some persons are in the habit of working these scraps in with the next piece of dough that is rolled out, but this is not good practice, for by the time they are rolled on the board a second time, more flour will be worked into them than into the dough with which they were put and the texture will not be the same.

17. BAKING COOKIES.--Have a cooky sheet or other large shallow pan greased and floured, and as soon as all the cookies are cut from a piece of dough, pick them up with the aid of a spatula, as in Fig. 9, and arrange them on the pan. Do not place them too close together, or upon baking they will stick to one another and lose their shape. As soon as a pan is filled, set it in the oven, either directly on the bottom or on a low rack. If the temperature of the oven is correct, the cookies should begin to rise within 2 or 3 minutes after they are put into the oven. After they have baked on the bottom and have risen as much as they will, they will appear as shown in Fig. 10. At this point, set them on a higher rack to brown on top. In this browning, they will shrink to some extent, so that the finished cookies will not have so smooth an appearance as when they are placed on the top rack. When done, they should be slightly brown, and if it is found that they are too brown on top, it may be known that the oven temperature was a little too high or perhaps that they should have had a little less time on this rack. Molasses cookies require special care to prevent them from burning, for, as is explained in Hot Breads, any food containing molasses burns readily. A comparatively short time is necessary for the baking of cookies, but they should be left in the oven long enough to be thoroughly baked when removed. When ready to serve, properly baked cookies should appear as in Fig. 11.

18. RECIPES FOR COOKIES.--With the principles of cooky making well understood, the housewife is fully qualified to try any of the recipes that follow. As will be noted, a number of recipes are here given and so a pleasing variety may be had. Some of them are suitable for certain occasions and some for others. For instance, barley-molasses cookies are very good with coffee for breakfast, while filled cookies make an excellent cake for picnic lunches. Cream cookies or vanilla wafers could be served at an afternoon tea, while sand tarts make a very good accompaniment for ice cream or some other dainty dessert. The nature of the cooky will enable the housewife to determine when it should be served.

GINGER SNAPS
(Sufficient for 4 Dozen Snaps)

• 1 c. molasses
• 1/3 c. lard or other shortening
• 1/4 c. butter
• 3-1/4 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1 Tb. ginger
• 1 tsp. salt

Heat the molasses to boiling and pour over the shortening. Sift the dry ingredients together and add these. Cool the mixture until it is stiff and cold, roll as thin as possible, cut with a small round cutter, and bake in a quick oven, being careful not to burn.

CREAM COOKIES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cookies)

• 1/3 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. thin cream
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. mace
• 3 c. flour

Cream the butter, add the sugar, eggs, the cream, and vanilla. Sift the baking powder, salt, mace, and flour together and add these to the mixture. Roll about 1/4 inch thick and cut. Bake in a hot oven.

VANILLA WAFERS
(Sufficient for 6 Dozen Wafers)

• 1/3 c. shortening
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/4 c. milk
• 2 tsp. vanilla
• 2 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt

Cream the shortening, add the sugar and egg, and continue beating. Pour in the milk and add the vanilla. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into the mixture. Roll out as thin as possible, cut with a small round cutter, and bake in a hot oven. These wafers should be crisp and thin when finished.

BARLEY-MOLASSES COOKIES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cookies)

• 1 c. molasses
• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1/4 c. milk
• 2 c. wheat flour
• 1 c. barley flour
• 2 tsp. ginger
• 1 tsp. soda
• 1/2 tsp. salt

Heat the molasses, pour it over the shortening, and add the milk. Sift the dry ingredients together, and add to the mixture. Cool, roll about 1/4 inch thick, cut, and bake in a quick oven, being careful not to burn.

OATMEAL COOKIES
(Sufficient for 3-1/2 Dozen Cookies)

• 1 egg
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/4 c. thin cream
• 1/4 c. milk
• 1/2 c. oatmeal
• 2 c. flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 4 Tb. melted butter

Beat the egg and add the sugar, cream, and milk. Run the oatmeal through a food chopper, and mix with the flour, baking powder, and salt. Stir all into the mixture, add the melted butter, and mix thoroughly. Roll thin, cut, and bake in a quick oven.

SAND TARTS
(Sufficient for 6 Dozen Tarts)

• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1-3/4 c. flour
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 egg white
• Blanched almonds

Cream the shortening and add the sugar and the egg. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon, and add these to the mixture. Fold in the beaten egg white. Roll as thin as possible and cut. Split blanched almonds, and after putting the cookies on the cooky sheet, place several halves of almonds in any desirable position on the cookies. Bake in a quick oven until light brown.

HIGHLAND DAINTIES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cookies)

• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 3/4 c. butter
• 1 egg yolk

Mix and sift the flour and sugar and work in the butter with the fingers. Roll out about 1/3 inch thick and cut into any desirable shape with small cutters. Brush with the egg yolk to which has been added 1 teaspoonful of water. Bake in a slow oven until light brown.

FILLED COOKIES
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cookies)

• 1 c. shortening
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/2 c. milk
• 3 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 2 tsp. vanilla

Cream the shortening and add the sugar gradually. Next add the beaten egg and the milk. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together and add to the mixture. Add the vanilla. Roll very thin and cut into small round, square, or diamond shapes. Spread one cooky with the following filling, cover with a second, press the edges together, and bake in a quick oven.

FILLING FOR COOKIES

• 1 c. sugar
• 1 Tb. flour
• 1/2 c. boiling water
• 1-1/4 c. chopped raisins
• 3/4 c. nut meats

Mix the sugar and flour and stir them into the boiling water. Add the raisins and let cook until thick enough to spread on the cookies. Remove from the fire and add the nut meats. Cool slightly and spread. Figs or dates may be used in place of the raisins.

If it is not desired to prepare a filling for the cookies, jam makes a very good substitute.

SOUR-CREAM COOKIES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cookies)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 pt. thick sour cream
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 3-1/2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. lemon extract

Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs, and beat thoroughly. Add the cream. Sift the soda, baking powder, and flour and add to the first mixture. Add the lemon extract, roll out thick, and sprinkle with sugar. Cut with a round cutter, place on greased and floured tins, and bake.

KISSES AND MACAROONS

19. NATURE OF KISSES AND MACAROONS.--The varieties of small cakes known as kisses and macaroons are undoubtedly the daintiest ones that are made. Composed almost entirely of sugar, egg whites, and flavoring, they are very delicate in texture and are practically confections. Kisses do not contain any flour, but macaroons need a small amount of this ingredient and some varieties of them contain the yolks, as well as the whites, of eggs. Chopped or ground nuts, coconut, and various kinds of dried or candied fruits are added to these cakes to give them variety.

20. The mixtures of which these cakes are made are either dropped by spoonfuls or forced through a pastry bag into little mounds or rosettes on an inverted pan or a cooky sheet and then baked in a very slow oven. An oven of this kind is necessary, for the mixtures must be practically dried out in the baking. Meringues, although made of a mixture similar to that used for kisses, are usually made in rather large, round, flat shapes, whereas kisses are smaller and are for the most part made in the shape of rosettes. Fig. 12 shows a plate of kisses ready to serve.

21. Marguerites, while not exactly the same as either kisses or macaroons, are given in this connection because the mixture used for them is similar to that for kisses. These, as shown in Fig. 13, are in reality saltines covered with a mixture of egg and sugar to which nuts, coconut, flavoring, etc. may be added for variety. After the sugar covering has been applied, the saltines are set in the oven and baked until slightly brown on top. This variety of small cakes, as well as kisses and meringues, is excellent for serving with afternoon tea, or with ice cream at a party that is to be very dainty.

22. RECIPES FOR KISSES AND MACAROONS.--One recipe for kisses, several recipes for macaroons, and directions for the preparation of marguerites follow. If meringues are desired, the recipe for kisses may be followed and the mixture then dropped by spoonfuls, instead of being forced through a pastry tube.

KISSES OR MERINGUES
(Sufficient for 1 to 2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/2 c. fine granulated sugar, or 1/2 c. and 2 Tb. powdered sugar
• 2 egg whites
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Fine granulated or powdered sugar may be used for these cakes. If powdered sugar is selected, a little more will be required than of granulated. Only fresh eggs should be employed. Separate them and beat the whites with an egg whip, beating slowly at first and more rapidly as the eggs grow stiff. When they have become very stiff, add a tablespoonful of the sugar and continue the beating. When this has been beaten thoroughly, add another tablespoonful, and continue to add sugar in small amounts and to beat until all has been worked in. Add the vanilla. Moisten with cold water a board that is about 1 inch thick, place over it some heavy white paper, and force the mixture through a pastry bag or drop by spoonfuls on the paper. Place the board containing the kisses in a very slow oven, one so slow that instead of baking the kisses it will really dry them. If the oven is too warm, open the oven door slightly to prevent the temperature from rising too high. Bake until the kisses are dry and then remove them from the oven.

If desired, the inside of the meringues, which is soft, may be removed and the shell filled with a filling of some kind. Plain whipped cream or whipped cream to which fresh strawberries and sugar are added makes an excellent filling for this purpose. In fact, meringues filled and garnished with whipped cream make a very delightful dessert.

PECAN MACAROONS
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1 egg white
• 1 c. brown sugar
• 1 c. pecan meats
• 1/4 tsp. salt

Beat the egg white until stiff and add the sugar gradually, beating constantly. Fold in the nut meats, add the salt, and then drop from the tip of a spoon 1 or 2 inches apart on a cooky sheet covered with buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven until delicately browned.

ALMOND MACAROONS
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1/2 lb. almonds
• 1 c. powdered sugar
• 2 egg whites

Blanch the almonds and force them through a food chopper. Mix the ground almonds and powdered sugar, and gradually add the beaten egg whites until a mixture of the consistency of a stiff dough is formed. Force through a pastry bag or drop with a spoon on a cooky sheet covered with buttered paper. The macaroon mixture spreads during the baking, so space will have to be left between the cakes. Bake in a very slow oven. After removing from the oven, cover for a few minutes with a moist cloth in order to loosen the macaroons.

COCONUT MACAROONS
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 1 c. powdered sugar
• 1 c. shredded coconut
• 2 egg whites

Mix the sugar and coconut. Beat the egg whites and fold into the coconut and sugar. Drop by spoonfuls on a cooky sheet covered with waxed paper and bake in a slow oven.

OATMEAL-FRUIT MACAROONS
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cakes)

• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/4 c. corn sirup
• 1 Tb. melted shortening
• 1/2 c. raisins, cut in small pieces
• 2-1/2 c. rolled oats
• 1/2 tsp. salt

Beat the eggs, add the sugar, sirup, and shortening. Fold in the fruit, rolled oats, and salt. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased cooky sheet and bake in a moderate oven.

MARGUERITES
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cakes)

• 3/4 c. sugar
• 1/3 c. water
• 1 egg white
• 1/4 c. shredded coconut
• 1/4 c. chopped nuts

Cook the sugar and water until it forms a hard ball when tested in cold water or threads from a spoon. Beat the egg white until stiff, pour the hot sirup into it, and continue beating until the mixture is stiff enough not to run. Add the coconut and chopped nuts and spread a thick layer on saltines. Place in a moderate oven and bake until slightly browned.

LADYFINGERS AND SPONGE DROPS

23. The mixture used for ladyfingers is in reality a sponge-cake mixture, but it is baked in a certain oblong shape known as a ladyfinger shape. Shallow pans that will bake the mixture in the required shape can be purchased, but these need not be secured, for much more satisfactory results can be obtained with a pastry bag and tube after a little practice. The same mixture may be dropped by spoonfuls and baked in small round cakes known as sponge drops. Both ladyfingers and sponge drops, after being baked, are put together in twos by means of a simple sugar icing. Care should be exercised in their baking to prevent them from burning.

Small cakes of these varieties are very satisfactory to serve with a rich gelatine or cream dessert. Then, again, such cakes, especially ladyfingers, are sometimes molded into a frozen dessert or placed in a mold in which a gelatine dessert is solidified. Often they are served with sweetened and flavored whipped cream; in fact, no matter how stale or fresh they may be, they help to make very delicious desserts.

LADYFINGERS No. 1
(Sufficient for 1-1/2 Dozen Cakes)

• 3 egg whites
• 1/3 c. powdered sugar
• 2 egg yolks
• 1/4 tsp. vanilla
• 1/3 c. flour
• 1/8 tsp. salt

Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and dry. Add the sugar gradually and continue beating. Beat the two egg yolks until they are thick and lemon-colored and add them. Add the flavoring and fold in the flour mixed and sifted with the salt. Cover a cooky sheet with light wrapping paper that is perfectly smooth and marked into spaces 4-1/2 in. long by 1-1/2 in. wide, as shown in Fig. 14. With the aid of a spoon, as illustrated, fill the ladyfinger mixture into a pastry bag containing a plain pastry tube. Then, from the pastry tube, squeeze the cake mixture onto the marked spaces, as shown in Fig. 15, making the mass slightly narrower in the center than at the ends. When all the spaces have been filled, set the pan containing the sheet in a slow oven and bake until dry. Remove from the oven and take from the paper by slipping a sharp knife under each ladyfinger. If the ladyfingers are to be used for cake, they must be put together in pairs with the following simple filling, and they will then appear as in Fig. 16.

FILLING FOR LADYFINGERS

• Juice of 1 orange
• Sufficient sugar to spread

Beat the orange juice and sugar together until smooth. Place a layer of the mixture between each two ladyfingers.

LADYFINGERS No. 2
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Cakes)

• 6 eggs
• 1-1/4 c. powdered sugar
• 1 c. flour
• Juice of half a lemon

Separate the eggs and beat the whites with an egg whip until stiff. Sift the sugar and flour together several times, add a little to the eggs, and continue beating. Continue to add the sugar and flour, a little at a time, until all has been added. Beat the egg yolks until they are light and lemon-colored and then beat them into the mixture. Add the lemon juice and force the mixture through a pastry tube in the same way as described in the preceding recipe. Bake in a slow oven. When cool, put together with the orange filling.

CAKES MADE WITH YEAST

24. A few varieties of cake are made light by means of yeast instead of being leavened with eggs or chemical leavening agents. These cakes are, of course, similar to bread in many respects, but they are sweeter and richer than bread and contain eggs. For this reason they are not economical mixtures and should not be made if economy must be practiced. Because of the sugar, butter, and eggs used in them, the action of the yeast is slow; consequently, the processes involved in making these mixtures are neither short nor simple. Often, after they have been baked in a mold, the center is removed and the shells are then filled with different mixtures to make a variety of desserts.

BRIOCHE

• 1 c. milk
• 1-1/2 yeast cakes
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 2/3 c. butter
• 4-1/2 c. flour
• 3 egg yolks
• 3 whole eggs
• 1/2 tsp. lemon extract

Scald the milk, cool until lukewarm, and then add the yeast cakes. When they are thoroughly dissolved, add the sugar, the butter, which has been softened but not melted, and half of the flour. Add the egg yolks and beat with the hands. Add the eggs one at a time and when all have been beaten in thoroughly, continue to add more flour. After all of the flour and also the lemon extract have been added and the mixture is of a consistency to knead, allow it to rise for 6 hours. Punch down and place in the ice box or some other cool place overnight. In the morning, the mixture will be ready to bake in whatever shape is desirable.

The four recipes that follow show various ways in which the brioche may be used to make attractive as well as appetizing desserts.

COFFEE CAKES

Roll the brioche mixture into a long rectangular piece about 1/4 inch thick. Spread with softened butter, fold one-third of the side over the center and the opposite side on top of that, making three layers. Cut this into strips about 3/4 inch wide, cover, and let rise. When light, twist the ends of each piece in the opposite direction, coil, and bring the ends together on the top of the cake. Let rise in pans for 20 minutes, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Upon removing from the oven, brush with confectioner's sugar moistened with enough water to allow it to spread.

BRIOCHE BUNS

Work 1/2 cupful of raisins and 1/2 cupful of chopped nut meats into half of the brioche mixture. Shape into balls about the size of a walnut, and then place close together in a buttered pan. Brush over the top with 1 tablespoonful of sugar dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of milk. Bake in a moderate oven for about 25 minutes. Brush a second time with the sugar-and-milk mixture and allow the buns to remain in the oven until they are well browned.

BRIOCHE DESSERT

Fill muffin pans about 1/2 full with the brioche mixture. Allow it to rise nearly to the top, bake in a slow oven, remove when sufficiently baked, and cool. Remove the center from each mold, leaving a shell. The centers may be toasted and served separately. Put a teaspoonful or two of any desirable preserves or marmalade into the shells, fill with sweetened and flavored whipped cream, and over the top sprinkle chopped nuts. This dessert should be prepared just before serving.

BRIOCHE PUDDING

Take enough of the brioche sponge to fill a good-sized mold two-thirds full. Work into this 1/2 cupful of raisins cut into small pieces, 1/4 cupful of candied cherries, 1/2 cupful of chopped nuts, and 1/4 cupful of coconut. Place in a mold and allow it to rise until the mold is nearly full. Bake from 45 minutes to 1 hour, turn out of the mold, and allow to become cold. Cut into thick slices with a knife that has been heated in the flame, and serve with apricot or pineapple sauce.

APPLE CAKE
(Sufficient for Three Good-Sized Cakes)

• 2 c. milk
• 1 yeast cake
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 3/4 c. butter
• 8-1/2 c. flour
• 3 eggs
• Apples

Scald the milk and cool it to lukewarm. Add the yeast, salt, sugar, and butter, which has been softened but not melted. Add half of the flour and beat in the eggs. When all has been mixed thoroughly, add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Knead for a short time and place in a bowl to rise. When risen until double in bulk, roll a piece of the dough 1/2 inch thick to fit a rectangular pan. Allow this to rise until it is light. Peel apples, cut into halves and then into thick slices, and rub them with lemon so they will not discolor. When the bread mixture is light, place the apples on the top in rows. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a quick oven. Serve with butter or sugar and cream.

SWEDISH TEA RING

Roll a large piece of the mixture used for apple cake into a rectangular shape from 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, brush with butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and, if desired, with raisins or chopped nuts. Roll like a jelly roll, and place the two ends together on a cooky sheet so as to form a ring. Try, if possible, to conceal the joining by fastening the ends together carefully. The best way to do this is to cut a slice from each end before joining. Then, with a scissors, cut through the edge of the ring nearly to the center and slightly at a slant, as in Fig. 17. Make the cuts about 1 inch apart and turn the cut slices over so as to show the layers of dough. Brush with milk, dredge with sugar, and bake for about 1/2 hour. When baked, this cake should appear as shown in Fig. 18.

CREAM PUFFS AND ÉCLAIRS

25. A delicious form of dessert that is usually classed with small cakes includes cream puffs and Éclairs. They are made of a special kind of paste that, when baked, becomes hollow in the center, very much as popovers do. The inside is then filled with a mixture similar to a custard mixture or with sweetened and flavored whipped cream. Many persons have an idea that these mixtures are very difficult to make, but the fact is that they may be easily made if the directions for preparing them are carefully followed.

26. After the paste has been mixed, the way it is to be treated will depend on whether cream puffs or Éclairs are to be made. For cream puffs, which are shown in Fig. 19, it is dropped by spoonfuls on a cooky sheet or a large pan, while in the case of Éclairs, several of which are shown in Fig. 20, it is forced through a large round pastry tube so as to form long strips. The shapes are then baked in a hot oven, and during this process they puff up and become hollow in the center. If, upon attempting to fill the shells thus made, the centers are found to contain a little moist, doughy material, this may be removed. The filling may then be introduced either by cutting a slit in the side and putting it in with a spoon or by inserting the end of a pastry tube into the shell and forcing it in with a pastry bag and tube. In addition to being filled with a filling of some kind, Éclairs are covered, as here shown, with an icing that usually corresponds in flavor with the filling. For instance, chocolate Éclairs are filled with a chocolate filling and covered with a chocolate icing, while coffee Éclairs have a coffee filling and a coffee icing.

Very small cream puffs are attractive and are often served with small cakes for an afternoon tea or a buffet luncheon. These may be made by dropping the paste with a teaspoon on a cooky sheet, baking it until done, and then filling the shells with any desired paste.

CREAM PUFFS
(Sufficient for 1 Dozen Cream Puffs)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 C. boiling water
• 1 c. flour
• 4 eggs

Boil the butter and water together until the butter is melted. Add the flour by pouring it all in at one time. Stir rapidly and cook until the mass does not stick to the sides of the pan. Continue the stirring so that it does not burn. Remove from the fire and cool, so as not to cook the eggs when they are added. Add one egg at a time and mix thoroughly with the mixture before adding another. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased cooky sheet, place close to the floor of the oven, and bake in a hot oven for about 30 minutes or until the puffs are dry and can be lifted from the sheet. Allow them to cool and then fill with whipped cream or a custard filling. Before serving, sprinkle powdered sugar over the top of each.

ÉCLAIRS

When Éclairs are desired, make the paste as for cream puffs. Then through a large, round pastry tube, one having a diameter of at least 1/2 inch, force this paste in strips 3-1/2 or 4 inches long, putting the paste on a cooky sheet or some other large pan. Bake in a hot oven in the same way as cream puffs. When cool, fill with a custard mixture of any desired flavoring and cover with an icing of the same flavor.

ROYAL ÉCLAIRS

Royal Éclairs are especially delicious and make a very agreeable change from the usual variety. To make these, bake Éclairs in the usual shape and set aside to cool. Cut canned peaches into pieces, add sugar to them, and cook down until the sirup becomes thick. Fill each Éclair with several spoonfuls of this mixture and, if desired, serve with whipped cream over the top.

CREAM FILLING FOR CREAM PUFFS

• 1/3 c. flour
• 2 c. milk
• 1 egg
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 2 tsp. butter
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Moisten the flour with a little cold milk. Heat the remainder of the milk and add the moistened flour. Cook in a double boiler for 10 or 15 minutes. Beat the egg, add the sugar and salt, and pour this into the hot mixture, stirring rapidly. Cook until the egg is thickened, and then add the butter and vanilla. Remove from the fire, cool, and fill into the cream puffs.

CHOCOLATE FILLING FOR ÉCLAIRS

• 1 sq. chocolate
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 1 c. water
• 1/3 c. flour
• 1 c. milk
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cook the chocolate, sugar, and water over the flame until they are well blended. Mix the flour and milk and add to the hot mixture. Cook until the flour has thickened. Add the butter and vanilla. Cool and fill into the Éclairs. Cover the tops with a plain chocolate icing.

COFFEE FILLING FOR ÉCLAIRS

• 1/3 c. ground coffee
• 2 c. milk
• 1/3 c. flour
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Steep the coffee in the milk for 15 minutes. Strain and add the flour and sugar, which have been thoroughly mixed. Cook until the mixture is thickened, stirring constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Add the butter and vanilla, cool, and fill into the Éclairs. Cover the top of the Éclairs with icing made by thickening a little strong coffee with pulverized sugar.

CARAMEL FILLING FOR ÉCLAIRS

• 1 c. sugar
• 1-1/4 c. boiling water
• 1/3 c. flour
• 1 c. milk
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Caramelize 1/2 cupful of the sugar, add the water, and cook until the caramel has dissolved. Mix the remainder of the sugar with the flour and moisten with the milk. Add this to the caramel and cook until the flour thickens completely, stirring constantly to prevent the formation of lumps. Add the butter and vanilla. Cool and fill into the Éclairs. Cover the tops with a plain caramel icing.

DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS

27. NATURE OF DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS.--Some kinds of doughnuts and crullers are made of bread dough, and for this reason really belong to breakfast breads instead of to cakes. However, most of the recipes for these two foods include sugar, shortening, milk, eggs, and leavening, making doughnuts and crullers so similar to cake in their composition that they are usually regarded as cake mixtures. The shortening, which is in smaller amounts than is required for most cakes, is supplied largely by the method of preparation peculiar to these cakes; that is, by their being fried in deep fat. Consequently, some of the same conditions apply in their preparation as in the making of other foods that are cooked in this way. As has already been learned, such foods must either contain a sufficient amount of protein material, such as egg, for instance, or be coated with enough material of this kind to prevent the absorption of fat. In the case of doughnuts, this material is supplied as an ingredient.

[Illustration: FIG. 21]

28. SHAPING DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS.--The ingredients used in the making of doughnuts are combined in much the same way as those used in other cake mixtures. A point to remember is that the mixture, like that for cookies, must be stiff enough to handle and roll out, but care should be taken not to use too much flour, for then the doughnuts are likely to be tough. Divide the dough into amounts of a convenient size, place one of these on a well-floured board, and roll out with a rolling pin until about 1/4 inch thick. Then, with a doughnut cutter, as shown in Fig. 21, cut as many doughnuts as possible from the rolled dough. If a regular doughnut cutter is not in supply, a round cookie cutter may be used and then a thimble or some other small round cutter applied to remove the center of the pieces thus cut. As here shown, a plate or some other small dish containing flour should be kept handy and the cutter dipped into this occasionally during the cutting to prevent it from sticking to the dough and marring the appearance of the doughnuts. Collect the centers and scraps that remain after the doughnuts have been cut from a piece and set these aside until all the fresh dough has been used. These may then be rolled out again and cut into doughnuts. If desired, however, the centers may be fried.

29. While doughnuts are usually round and have a hole in the center, they may, for variety, be made in other shapes. For instance, after the dough is rolled out, it is sometimes cut with a sharp knife Into rectangular pieces about 4 inches long and 2-1/2 inches wide and each one of these pieces then cut lengthwise into three strips attached at one end. When cut in this way, the strips are braided and then pinched together at the loose end. Or, the pieces may be made 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, cut into two strips attached at one end, and the strips then twisted around each other and pinched together at the loose end.

30. FRYING DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS.--After the doughnuts have been cut in the desired shape, the next step is to fry them. The equipment required for this process consists of a pan or a kettle into which the fat is put, a long-handled frying basket into which the doughnuts are placed, and a receptacle containing hot water into which the doughnuts can be dipped after being fried. Put into the kettle a sufficient amount of fat, which may be any vegetable fat or oil, to cover the doughnuts well, allow it to become hot enough to brown an inch cube of bread in 40 seconds, place several doughnuts in the bottom of the basket, as shown in Fig. 22, and then lower the basket into the hot fat, when it will be found that the doughnuts will rise quickly to the top of the fat. Allow them to brown on one side and then turn them over with a fork and let them brown on the other side. Be careful not to let the fat become too hot during the frying, or the doughnuts will become darker than is desirable before the inside is cooked. If it is found that the fat is getting too hot, turn off some of the heat or remove the deep-fat kettle from the excessive heat.

[Illustration: FIG. 24]

31. As soon as the doughnuts have become an even brown on both sides and have fried through thoroughly, lift the basket out of the fat and rest it on the edge of the frying kettle. Then, as shown in Fig. 23, remove the doughnuts one at a time from the basket with a fork and dip quickly into the pan of boiling water and remove again at once. Dipping the doughnuts into boiling water removes any excessive fat that may remain on the surface. Upon taking them from the water, place them, as in Fig. 24, on a piece of paper that will absorb as much of the remaining fat as possible. When these precautions are taken, the doughnuts will be found to be less greasy and not so likely to disagree with the persons who eat them. After the surface has become dried, the doughnuts may be improved by sprinkling them with pulverized or granulated sugar.

32. If a large number of doughnuts are made and the hot-water method of drying them is adopted, it will be found that considerable fat will remain in the water. It will therefore pay to allow the fat to become cool and remove it from the surface of the water. Fat in which doughnuts and crullers are fried, after being poured from the dregs that collect in the bottom and reheated, may be clarified by adding several slices of raw potato to it and allowing these to become brown in it. This treatment will remove any foreign taste that the fat may have and make it possible to use the fat again for frying purposes. Fat in which croquettes have been fried may be treated in the same way and used the second time.

33. RECIPES FOR DOUGHNUTS.--A variety of doughnuts that are made light by means of chemical leavening can be prepared, as the following recipes indicate. Sometimes yeast doughnuts are preferred, so a recipe for doughnuts of this kind is also given. If the directions previously given are carefully applied in carrying out any of these recipes, excellent results may be expected. Some persons are prejudiced against the use of doughnuts, claiming that they are indigestible. While this may be true of doughnuts improperly made, those made of good materials and by correct methods are always a favorite and justly so.

DOUGHNUTS
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Doughnuts)

• 3 Tb. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 3 eggs
• 1 c. milk
• 4-1/2 c. flour
• 6 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. cinnamon

Cream the butter, add the sugar and then the eggs, and beat thoroughly. Pour in the milk and sift the dry ingredients into this mixture. Divide into amounts that can be handled conveniently, roll out, cut, and fry in deep fat.

POTATO-AND-BARLEY DOUGHNUTS
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Doughnuts)

• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. mashed potatoes
• 1 Tb. fat
• 1/3 c. sour milk
• 1/2 c. barley flour
• 1-1/2 c. wheat flour
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. mace
• 1/4 tsp. soda
• 2 tsp. baking powder

Beat the eggs and add the sugar and mashed potatoes. If solid shortening is used, melt it and add to the other ingredients. Pour in the sour milk, mix and sift the barley and wheat flour, salt, mace, soda, and baking powder, and add these to the mixture. Turn the dough out on a board in a quantity that can be handled at one time and knead for a little before rolling it for cutting. Cut and fry in deep fat.

SOUR-MILK DOUGHNUTS
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Doughnuts)

• 4 c. flour
• 1-1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1 egg
• 1-1/4 c. sour milk

Mix and sift the dry ingredients and chop in the butter. Beat the egg, add the milk, and stir these into the dry ingredients. After mixing thoroughly, roll about 1/4 inch thick on a board, cut in the desired shape, and fry in deep fat.

DROP DOUGHNUTS
(Sufficient for 2 Dozen Doughnuts)

• 2 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 Tb. melted fat

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Beat the egg, add the milk to it, and pour the liquid into the dry ingredients. Add the melted fat. Drop by teaspoonfuls into hot fat and fry the same as for doughnuts.

YEAST DOUGHNUTS
(Sufficient for 3 Dozen Doughnuts)

• 1 c. milk
• 1 yeast cake
• 5 c. flour
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/4 c. melted butter
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. mace

Scald the milk and cool to lukewarm. Dissolve the yeast cake and add it to the milk and a sufficient amount of the flour to make a sponge. Allow this to rise until double in bulk. Then add the eggs, sugar, melted butter, salt, and mace. Beat thoroughly and add enough flour to make a dough. Knead this until it is smooth and elastic and let it rise until double in bulk. Roll out on a board into a sheet about 3/4 inch thick. Cut into long strips about 3/4 inch wide, twist, stretch, and shape like a figure 8. Let these stand on the board or in a pan until they are light and then fry in deep fat.

PUDDINGS AND PUDDING SAUCES

NATURE OF PUDDINGS

34. Many kinds of puddings are used for desserts. Some of them closely resemble cake mixtures, while others are similar to custards, but are thickened with a cooked or a raw starchy material. Formerly, puddings were always boiled in a bag, but now desserts of this kind are prepared by boiling, steaming, or baking. To improve the flavor of puddings, sauces of a contrasting flavor are usually served with them.

35. Puddings are often considered to be rather indigestible foods and in many cases this is true. For this reason, it is not wise to include them to any great extent in the diet of children. Because of the ingredients used in them, they are a heavy food and are usually high in food value. Consequently, some thought should be given to their selection so that they may be suitable for the rest of the meal in which they are served. It seems to be the custom to serve a rich dessert with a heavy meal, but, as is well known, it is less proper with such a meal than with a light meal. A little attention given to this matter will enable the housewife to prepare menus that will provide the family with a properly balanced meal.

36. The time of day and the season of the year for the serving of puddings are also matters that should receive consideration. It is much better to serve desserts of this kind with a noon meal than with an evening meal. Then, too, warm puddings with sauce will be found much more appetizing in the cool season of the year than in warm weather. On the other hand, cool desserts or fruits served as desserts are very much more acceptable in warm weather than during the cold seasons.

PUDDING SAUCES

37. The sauces served with puddings deserve just as much attention as to selection and preparation as the puddings themselves. For instance, a sour sauce that is not rich, such as lemon sauce, should be served with a rich, sweet pudding, while a rich, hard sauce or perhaps a chocolate sauce is the proper kind to serve with a bland, flavorless pudding.

So that the housewife may be perfectly familiar with a variety of sauces and thus know the nature of the sauces mentioned in connection with the puddings themselves, a number of recipes for pudding sauces are given. Some of these are intended to be served hot and others cold, while a few may be served either hot or cold, as preferred. Selection may be made from these for any pudding that is accompanied by a sauce when served. Care should be taken to have the sauce appropriate for the pudding and to follow explicitly the directions given for making it.

LEMON SAUCE NO. 1

• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 Tb. corn starch
• Few grains of salt
• 1 c. boiling water
• 2 Tb. butter
• 2 Tb. lemon juice

Mix the sugar, corn starch, and salt, and add the water gradually, stirring constantly. Boil 5 minutes, remove from the fire, add the butter and lemon juice, and serve.

LEMON SAUCE NO. 2

• 1/3 c.
• 1 c. sugar
• 3 egg yolks
• 1/3 c. boiling water
• 3 Tb. lemon juice
• Few gratings of lemon rind

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and stir in the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten. Then add the water and cook over boiling water until the mixture thickens. Add the lemon juice and rind and serve at once.

VANILLA SAUCE

• 1/3 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 3 egg yolks
• 1/3 c. boiling water
• Few gratings of nutmeg
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and stir in the egg yolks beaten slightly. Add the water and cook over boiling water until the mixture thickens. Add the nutmeg and vanilla and serve at once.

HARD SAUCE

• 1/3 c. butter
• 1 c. powdered sugar
• 1/3 tsp. lemon extract
• 2/3 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and then add the flavoring. Beat until the sauce is light and creamy.

STERLING SAUCE

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1 c. brown sugar
• 4 Tb. cream or milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Add the milk and flavoring, drop by drop, to prevent separation. Beat until fluffy and smooth. Chill and serve.

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

• 1 c. milk
• 1/2 sq. chocolate
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 2 Tb. flour
• 1 Tb. butter
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Heat the milk and in it melt the chocolate. Mix the sugar and flour and stir into the mixture rapidly to prevent the formation of lumps. Cook until the sauce thickens, add the butter, and cook for a few minutes longer. Add the vanilla and serve either hot or cold, as desired.

FRUIT SAUCE

• 1 c. fruit juice
• 1/4 c. sugar
• 1-1/2 Tb. corn starch
• 2 Tb. lemon juice

Heat the fruit juice, which may be any left-over fruit juice. Mix the sugar and corn starch, add to the hot fruit juice, and cook until the corn starch thickens, stirring constantly to prevent the formation of lumps. Add the lemon juice. Remove from the heat and, if the sauce is desired to be more acid, add lemon juice to suit the taste.

APRICOT SAUCE

• 3/4 c. apricot pulp
• 3/4 c. whipping cream
• Pulverized sugar

Prepare apricot pulp by forcing cooked apricots through a sieve. Whip the cream and fold the apricot pulp into it. Add pulverized sugar to suit the taste.

PINEAPPLE SAUCE

• Half c. sugar
• 1-1/2 c. water
• 1 c. grated pineapple
• 1 Tb. corn starch

Add the sugar to the water and bring to the boiling point. Add the pineapple and cook until it is tender. If canned pineapple is used, omit 1/2 cupful of the water. Moisten the corn starch with a little water and add it. Cook until it thickens, stirring to prevent lumps.

ORANGE SAUCE

• 1/4 c. orange juice
• 1 Tb. lemon juice
• Powdered sugar

Into the fruit juices, beat the powdered sugar until the sauce is as sweet as desired.

MARASCHINO SAUCE

• 1/4 c. maraschino juice
• 1 Tb. lemon juice
• 6 cherries, chopped
• Powdered sugar

Mix the fruit juices and chopped cherries, add the sugar, beat well, and serve.

CUSTARD SAUCE

• 2 c. milk
• 1 Tb. corn starch
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla
• 1/2 tsp. lemon extract
• Pinch of salt

Heat the milk in a double boiler. Mix the corn starch and sugar and add to the milk, stirring so as to prevent the formation of lumps. Continue stirring until the corn starch has thickened and then cook for about 15 minutes longer. Beat the egg, add it to the mixture, and cook for a few minutes longer. Add the vanilla, lemon, and salt. Serve hot or cold.

COCONUT SAUCE

• 2 c. milk
• 1/2 c. shredded coconut
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1-1/2 Tb. corn starch
• Pinch of salt
• 1 egg white
• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

Heat the milk in a double boiler with the coconut. Mix the sugar and corn starch and add to the hot milk and coconut. Stir until the corn starch has thickened and cook for 15 minutes. Add the salt to the egg white and beat until it is stiff. Pour the hot mixture over the egg white and continue beating until thoroughly blended. Add the vanilla and serve either hot or cold.

JELLY SAUCE

• 2 tsp. corn starch or arrowroot
• 1 c. boiling water
• 1/2 c. jelly or jam
• Juice of 1/2 lemon

Cook the corn starch or arrowroot diluted with cold water, in the boiling water for 5 minutes. Add the jelly or jam, beaten smooth, and let simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. Add sugar, if needed, and the lemon juice. Strain and serve.

PUDDINGS

PREPARATION OF PUDDINGS

[Illustration: FIG. 25]

38. As has already been learned, puddings are cooked by being boiled, steamed, or baked. No different utensils from those used in the making of custards and cakes need be provided for the making of puddings except, perhaps, a steamer. A utensil of this kind, which is required for steamed puddings, consists of a large pan, which sets directly over the flame and into which the water is poured; a second pan, which fits closely into the first one and into which the pudding is put; and a spout, into which the water may be poured. The steamer must be very closely covered in order that all the steam, which does the cooking, may be retained. An apparatus that will answer the purpose of a steamer may be improvised, however, if there are in the supply of household utensils a pan, a colander, and a cover that will fit tight enough to retain the steam; or, instead of putting the pudding directly in the second pan of the steamer, it may be put into individual molds or a pan that will hold a sufficient quantity to serve just the desired number of persons and these then set in the second pan to cook.

39. Steamed puddings ready to serve are shown in Figs. 25 and 26. The pudding in Fig. 25 shows how a pudding that has been steamed in one large mold will appear. The mold used may be just large enough for the number of persons to be served or it may be larger and what remains used for another meal. Fig. 26 shows a pudding that has been steamed in individual molds. Whichever one of these two methods of preparing steamed puddings is preferred may be adopted.

When puddings are cooked by steaming, it should be remembered that the steaming process must be continuous. Therefore, if water must be added during the cooking, boiling water should be used so as not to lower the temperature and stop the formation of steam. After being steamed sufficiently, puddings of this kind are often placed in the oven for a short time in order to dry the surface.

40. The baking of puddings is so similar to the baking of cakes and custards that the same directions apply. A few points, however, should be kept well in mind if good puddings would be the result. The utensil in which a pudding that is to be baked is put may be of any desired shape, but it should always be greased. This also holds true in the case of puddings that are to be steamed. Puddings that contain an egg-and-milk mixture, as, for instance, bread pudding, must necessarily, as with custards, be baked at a temperature low enough to prevent them from curding.

RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS

41. In the preparation of many puddings here considered, left-over materials, such as bread, rolls, stale cake, cookies, etc., may be utilized to advantage. Consequently, when the housewife is making desserts, she should endeavor to make good use of all such things in case they cannot be used by themselves.

42. INDIAN PUDDING.--As corn meal is the chief ingredient in the pudding given in the accompanying recipe, it is called Indian pudding, corn meal being a product of Indian corn. For persons who like food containing corn meal, this pudding will prove satisfactory. It has the advantage over other puddings in that it is inexpensive.

INDIAN PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/3 c. corn meal
• 5 c. milk
• 1/2 c. molasses
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. cinnamon

Mix the corn meal with some of the milk, scald the remainder in a double boiler, and add the moistened corn meal to it. Pour in the molasses, salt, and cinnamon, cook for 15 or 20 minutes in a double boiler, and then pour into a buttered baking dish. Bake in a very slow oven for about 2 hours. Serve with cream or custard sauce.

43. BROWN BETTY.--A baked pudding that always meets with favor among both old and young is Brown Betty. The flavor imparted by the apples and other ingredients to the bread crumbs is delightful, especially when the pudding is prepared according to the accompanying directions.

BROWN BETTY
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1 qt. stale bread crumbs
• 1 qt. sliced apples
• 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 c. butter
• 1/2 to 1 c. water
• Juice and rind of 1/2 lemon

Butter a baking dish. Make coarse crumbs of the stale bread and place a layer on the bottom of the baking dish. Place on top of this a layer of half the sliced apples and sprinkle with 1/2 of the sugar, to which have been added the nutmeg and cinnamon. Dot with butter, sprinkle with another layer of crumbs, add the remaining apples, sugar, and spices, and dot again with butter. Cover with the remaining crumbs and dot this with the remaining butter. Pour over this the water, lemon juice, and the grated lemon rind. Bake in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes, covering the dish for the first half of the time and removing the cover for the latter part of the baking. Serve with cream, lemon sauce, or hard sauce. The quantity of water necessary depends on the dryness of the crumbs and the juiciness of the apples.

44. BREAD PUDDING.--For utilizing bits of bread that might otherwise be wasted, there is no better plan than to make a bread pudding. This dessert may be used with any dinner or luncheon, as jams, jellies, and practically all kinds of sauce may be served with it to impart a suitable flavor.

BREAD PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1 qt. milk
• 2 c. stale bread crumbs
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Heat the milk and pour it over the bread crumbs. Allow them to soak until they are soft. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and vanilla to them, and stir this into the mixture of crumbs and milk. Mix thoroughly, pour into a buttered baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes. If desired, jelly or jam may be served with the bread pudding or any desirable sauce, such as lemon, vanilla, or custard, may be used and the pudding may be served either hot or cold.

45. MAIZE PUDDING.--A pudding that has both corn starch and corn meal as its basis provides variety. This pudding, called maize pudding, is prepared in a double boiler and then turned into a mold to cool. Either raisins or dates may be added to it to increase its palatability.

MAIZE PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 3-1/2 c. milk
• 2 Tb. corn starch
• 1/2 c. white corn meal
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 3/4 c. raisins or dates

Scald the milk in a double boiler, mix the corn starch, corn meal, salt, sugar, and cinnamon, and add this to the hot milk, stirring rapidly to prevent the formation of lumps. Continue to stir and cook directly over the fire until the mixture thickens. Then return to the double boiler and cook for about 2 hours. Fifteen minutes before removing from the fire, add the raisins or chopped dates, turn into a mold, and serve either hot or cold with custard sauce.

46. PIERROT PUDDING.--A steamed pudding made of simple ingredients is often desired for serving with an elaborate meal. In such a case, Pierrot pudding will answer very well.

PIERROT PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 3/4 c. milk
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 5 tsp. baking powder
• 2 egg whites
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually. Then add the milk alternately with the flour, to which has been added the baking powder. Beat the whites of the eggs until they are stiff and fold them into the mixture. Add the vanilla. Butter baking-powder cans or other molds, fill them half full with the mixture, adjust the covers, which should also be buttered, and place in a kettle of boiling water. Raise them from the bottom of the kettle by means of a rack, have the water come half way up around the molds, and cover closely. If small molds are used, steam them only 1 hour. If a large mold is used, steam from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, never allowing the water to get below the boiling point. Remove from the molds and serve with hot chocolate sauce.

47. STEAMED GINGER PUDDING.--A steamed pudding in which the flavor of ginger predominates is given in the accompanying recipe. This kind of pudding is very popular among persons who like such flavor.

STEAMED GINGER PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. ginger
• 1 c. milk

Cream the shortening and add the sugar and the beaten eggs. Sift the dry ingredients with the flour and add alternately with the milk. Turn into a buttered mold and steam for about 2 hours. Remove from the mold and serve with sweetened whipped cream or any desired sauce.

48. RAISIN PUFF.--Raisins always increase the food value of a meal, and they are especially good when combined with the ingredients required for the dessert known as raisin puff. This steamed pudding is rather rich and should not, of course, be served with a meal in which the other foods are rich.

RAISIN PUFF
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/2 c. shortening
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 egg
• 2-1/4 c. flour
• 4 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1 c. milk
• 1 c. raisins

Cream the shortening and add the sugar gradually and the beaten egg. Sift the dry ingredients with the flour and add alternately with the milk. Chop the raisins and fold them into the mixture. Turn into a buttered mold, cover, and steam for 1-1/2 or 2 hours. Remove from the mold and serve hot with whipped cream or any desired sauce.

49. SUET-FRUIT PUDDING.--Steamed puddings in which suet and fruit form two of the ingredients are excellent cold-weather desserts. Such puddings are usually made around the holidays, and under proper conditions will keep for a long time. The accompanying recipe gives directions for making an excellent pudding of this kind.

SUET-FRUIT PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 3/4 c. suet
• 2-1/2 stale bread crumbs
• 2 egg yolks
• 1/4 c. milk
• 1 c. brown sugar
• Grated rind of 1 lemon
• 1 Tb. lemon juice
• 1-1/2 c. raisins
• 1/2 c. molasses
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. cloves
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1/2 c. flour
• 2 egg whites

Force the suet through a food chopper or chop very fine. Then work it with the hands until it is creamy and to it add the bread crumbs. Beat the egg yolks until they are light and add them to the suet and bread crumbs. Add the milk. Add the sugar, grated lemon rind, lemon juice, the raisins, cut into pieces, the molasses, and milk. Sift together the salt, spices, soda, and flour, and sift these into the mixture. Mix thoroughly, fold in the whites of the eggs beaten until they are stiff, turn into a buttered mold, adjust the cover, and steam for about 3 hours. Serve with any desired sauce.

50. CHRISTMAS PUDDING.--A pudding much used during the holiday season is Christmas pudding. The ingredients for this dessert are similar to those for suet-fruit pudding. In fact, both may be used for the same purpose. Christmas pudding is especially good when served with hard sauce, although other sauce may be used with it.

CHRISTMAS PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Twelve)

• 2-1/2 c. stale bread crumbs
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 c. beef suet
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. molasses
• 2 eggs
• 1 c. chopped raisins
• 1/2 c. chopped citron
• 1/2 c. chopped nuts
• 1 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/3 c. fruit juice

Soak the bread crumbs in the milk. Work the suet with the hands until it is creamy, and to it add the sugar, molasses, and well-beaten eggs. Mix with the milk and bread crumbs, and add the fruit and nuts. Mix the dry ingredients and sift them into the mixture. Add the fruit juice, turn into a buttered mold, and steam for 3 hours. Serve hot with hard sauce or any other desired sauce.

51. POCONO PUDDING.--Directions for still another steamed pudding in which suet is used are given in the accompanying recipe for Pocono pudding. This dessert does not require so many ingredients as suet-fruit or Christmas pudding, and in many cases will answer the same purpose.

POCONO PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 3/4 c. suet
• 2 c. apples
• 2 c. stale bread crumbs
• 3 eggs
• 3/4 c. brown sugar
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 tsp. salt
• Rind and juice of 1 lemon
• 1/2 c. raisins

Put the suet, apples, peeled and cored, and the bread crumbs through the food chopper. Beat the yolks of the eggs and add these with the sugar, milk, salt, and grated rind and juice of the lemon. Chop the raisins and add to the mixture. Beat the egg whites and fold these into the mixture. Pour the mixture into buttered molds and steam for 3 to 4 hours. Serve with any desired sauce.

52. STEAMED FIG PUDDING.--A steamed pudding made according to the recipe here given never fails to please. As the name, steamed fig pudding, indicates, it is supposed to have chopped figs added to it, although raisins will answer if figs cannot be obtained.

STEAMED FIG PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Twelve)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1/4 c. sugar
• 1 c. molasses
• 1 c. milk
• 2-1/2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 c. chopped figs or raisins

Cream the butter and add the sugar, molasses, and milk. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and stir these into the mixture. Fold in the chopped figs or raisins and steam in buttered molds for 2 to 3 hours, depending on the size of the molds. Serve hot with any desired sauce.

53. FRESH FRUIT PUDDING.--During berry or cherry season fresh-fruit pudding is an excellent one to make. This pudding is prepared in much the same way as a cake mixture, is combined with the fruit selected, and is then either steamed or baked.

FRESH-FRUIT PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1/4 c. sugar
• 2 c. flour
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1-1/4 c. milk
• 2 egg whites
• 1 c. berries or stoned cherries

Cream the butter and add the sugar. Sift together the dry ingredients and add these alternately with the milk. Beat the egg whites and fold these in. Place a layer of dough in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, put a layer of fruit on top of this, add dough next and then fruit, and have a final layer of dough on top. Cover tight and steam for 1-1/2 or 2 hours or bake without the cover in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes. Serve with a fruit or a hard sauce.

54. COCONUT PUFF.--A light pudding to which shredded coconut is added to give flavor is a satisfactory dessert for a heavy meal. As it is baked in muffin pans, it may be served in a dainty manner.

COCONUT PUFF
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 c. flour
• 1/2 tsp. soda
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 c. sour milk
• 1/2 c. shredded coconut

Cream the butter and add the sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs and add them. Sift the dry ingredients with the flour and add alternately with the milk. Fold in the coconut. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold them in. Bake in buttered muffin pans in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with coconut or any desired sauce.

55. COTTAGE PUDDING.--When a simple baked pudding is desired, the housewife almost instinctively turns to cottage pudding. This pudding has been a favorite in the household for years and may be eaten by young or old. It is not very rich, and so should be served with an appetizing sauce.

COTTAGE PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/4 c. butter
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 egg, well beaten
• 1 1/2 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat the egg and add it. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add alternately with the milk. Add the vanilla. Bake in a loaf-cake pan and serve hot with lemon, fruit, or chocolate sauce.

56. CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING.--To the majority of persons the flavor of chocolate is always pleasing. In chocolate bread pudding, this flavor is well blended with the ingredients. This pudding, when baked, may be cut into slices, as shown in Fig. 27, and then daintily served with either hard or custard sauce.

CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 2 c. stale bread crumbs
• 4 c. milk
• 1 sq. unsweetened chocolate
• 1/2 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. vanilla

Soak the bread crumbs in 3 cupfuls of the milk. Melt the chocolate in a saucepan and add the sugar and the remaining cup of milk. Cook until the mixture is smooth and add this to the bread and milk. Beat the eggs and add them. Add the salt and vanilla. Pour into a buttered baking dish and bake for about 45 minutes in a moderate oven. Cut into slices and serve with hard or custard sauce.

57. CHOCOLATE PUDDING.--Baked chocolate pudding provides another way in which to serve a dessert in which chocolate flavor predominates. This pudding, because of its food value and the pleasing way in which it may be served, is sure to answer for any meal in which a pudding dessert is desired.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)

• 1/4 c. butter
• 3/4 c. sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1-1/2 c. flour
• 3 tsp. baking powder
• 1/4 tsp. soda
• 1-1/4 sq. unsweetened chocolate
• 1-1/2 tsp. vanilla

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat the yolks of the eggs and add them. Add the milk alternately with the flour, which has been mixed and sifted with the baking powder and soda. Melt the chocolate in a saucepan and add. Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff and fold them into the mixture. Flavor with the vanilla. Bake in a pan that will leave a space in the center. It will require about 45 minutes to 1 hour for the baking. Remove from the pan, fill the center with whipped cream, and serve with chocolate sauce.

58. BOSTON CREAM PIE.--Boston cream pie is a dessert that can be made up with some of the recipes already given. It is a favorite dessert with many people and is very high in food value.

To make Boston cream pie, first bake two layers, each about 1 inch thick, in round pans, using the plain-cake or cottage-pudding recipe. Then, between these layers, put a filling about 1/2 inch thick. This filling should preferably be the one used for cream puffs, although any similar filling stiff enough to stand up well may be used instead. Cover the top layer with 1/2 to 1 inch of slightly sweetened and flavored whipped cream. The cake should not be put together until both the layers and the filling have cooled.

EXAMINATION QUESTIONS

(1) In what general way does the thickness of the dough mixture for large cakes differ from that for small cakes other than cup cakes?

(2) (a) In baking small cakes, how does the oven temperature required compare with that required for large cakes? (b) How does the length of time required for baking large and small cakes differ?

(3) If the time for baking small cakes is divided into halves, what should occur in the second half?

(4) Where should the pans for the baking of small cakes be placed in the oven?

(5) Describe an original way of decorating cup cakes.

(6) Describe two classes of cookies.

(7) What precaution must be taken with regard to the flour used in the mixing of cakes?

(8) How thick should the dough be rolled for: (a) cookies? (b) ginger snaps?

(9) Describe the baking of cookies.

(10) Describe the frying of doughnuts and crullers.

(11) Describe a method of removing the excess fat from the surface of doughnuts after they are fried.

(12) By what methods may puddings be cooked?

(13) With what kind of meal and during what kind of weather should heavy, rich pudding be served?

(J4) Of what value are pudding sauces?

(15) (a) Describe the method of steaming pudding. (b) How may the surface of steamed puddings be made dry?

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