Clivias — Colocasias — Crinums — Cyclamens — Cyrtanthuses — Eucharises and Urceocharis — Eurycles

Clivias (syn. Imantophyllum)

The Clivias and Imantophyllums were formerly kept distinct, but are now combined by botanists, the name Imantophyllum being retained as that of a sub-genus. Both have long leaves in opposite rows and umbels of flowers, which are of various shades of yellow, orange, or scarlet. C. nobilis grows about a foot high, and has bright red-yellow flowers. Gardneri has fewer flowers (twelve to twenty in the umbel). Miniata is the only species belonging to the sub-genus Imantophyllum, and seedlings, or hybrids between it and the other species, have been obtained in considerable numbers. The catalogues of leading bulb dealers may be consulted for the varieties now in commerce. All are ornamental in pots or planted out in beds or borders in airy houses, with a temperature of from fifty to sixty degrees. In spring and summer they should have plenty of water, both at the roots and applied by means of the syringe. A rather lower temperature and less water are desirable in spring. They should have a soil composed of good fibry loam and peat in the proportion of about three of the former to one of the latter, with a little charcoal, bone-meal, and silver sand. C. miniata flowers in spring and summer, and the other species in winter and spring.

Colocasias

The Colocasias are very ornamental plants with large handsome leaves, and are related to and require the same culture as the Caladiums. There is considerable confusion in the nomenclature of these plants in gardens, and Caladiums are sometimes found named Alocasias or Colocasias, and vice versa. The principal species are antiquorum; its variety, esculentum (syn. Caladium esculentem), sometimes used in the south for sub-tropical effect, being planted out in June, and freely supplied with water; and odorata.

Crinums

We have already referred to the hardy Crinums, but this work would be imperfect without a few details about the stove species, among which are some plants of the highest types of floral beauty. These should have a good soil of fibrous loam, peat, a little sand, and charcoal to keep the compost sweet, as the plants require plenty of water while growing, C. campanulatum and C. purpurascens especially requiring this, as they do best standing in a pan of water. They are also greatly benefited by syringing overhead. After the flowering period is over water may be reduced. They need large pots or tubs, as they form fleshy roots which should be as little disturbed as possible. There are so many Crinums, that a short selection of well-proved, good species suitable for the stove is necessary. These are—amabile, three feet, red; asiaticum, two feet, white; campanulatum, one foot, red-purple; giganteum, three feet, white; Kirkii, one and a half feet, white, striped red; Macowani, two feet, pink; purpurascens, one foot, claret-red; and zeylanicum, three feet, white, striped red.

Cyclamens

The varieties of Cyclamen latifolium, or persicum, a plant which has yielded under cultivation so many beautiful flowers, are general favourites, and are so easy to cultivate that they are largely grown for the decoration of glass structures and rooms. There are several methods adopted for raising the fine plants so often seen nowadays, which are generally young specimens grown from seeds. The following plan is followed by many successful growers. The seeds are sown from the beginning of August to the end of November, in pans of fibrous loam, some silver sand, and a fifth of leaf-soil. They are placed in an intermediate house, or a temperature of about fifty-five degrees, and in a little shade until the seedlings have begun to appear, when they may be placed near the glass and pricked off when they can be handled. They may be grown on in a similar temperature during the winter, but a little increase may be given immediately after potting off in February or March into three-inch pots. They should be placed in frames turned towards the north for the summer, receiving a potting into five-inch pots in July, and being kept close for a few days afterwards. After taking indoors they must be near the glass, and syringed frequently to keep off red spider.

Corms which have flowered may be kept, and with careful treatment will flower again, although scarcely so freely as young plants. They may either be planted out in frames for the summer or plunged in their pots, repotting when they show sign of making fresh growth. The large-flowered varieties are very handsome, and the Papilio, or Butterfly-formed flowers, and those with crested blooms are also considerably appreciated by those who like new flowers.

Cyrtanthuses

The Cyrtanthi are among the neglected bulbs in ordinary gardens, but when bulbous plants once more take their proper place they will be more largely grown. The genus now includes Monella of Salisbury and Gastronema of Herbert, and the plants have either pendulous or erect tubular flowers, those having the latter being formerly called Gastronema. Like many other Cape AmaryllideÆ, the Cyrtanthus requires to be kept dry in winter, but to be well supplied with water after starting into growth. Carneus and obliquus must not be dried off. Loam, peat, and sand form a suitable compost. They will grow in a greenhouse in summer, but should be kept in a stove during the winter months. The fragrant C. Mackenii, with white flowers, is pretty. Macowani, orange-scarlet, and sanguineus, bright red, are both fine species, and those desiring a larger number may grow albiflorus, white; carneus, bright red; obliquus, yellow; and odorus, red. Others are angustifolius, Huttoni, lutescens, smithianus, Tuckii, and ventricosus.

Eucharises and Urceocharis

The Eucharis is such a favourite with everyone that it is a matter of much regret that it has suffered in so many gardens from the ravages of what is known as the Eucharis mite (Rhizoglyphus Robini), which also affects other bulbs of allied character. There seems little doubt that this is brought about by errors in watering, as the Eucharis dislikes suffering from either too little or too much water. It should not have a season of rest from water, as many suppose, but should not be forced into flower more than twice in a year. Clibran's Eucharis Mite Killer, used as directed on the package, or a weak preparation of Kerosene Emulsion, are equally effectual, but the Emulsion should not touch the actual roots. So beautiful a plant is worth every attention, as we have nothing among other stove bulbs which can approach its pure white, elegantly formed flowers and dark-green foliage. The Eucharis likes a compost of two or three parts of good loam to one of leaf-mould or turfy peat, and a little charcoal to keep the compost sweet. It requires a temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees in winter, rising to seventy-five and eighty degrees in summer. Syringing overhead on bright days is necessary, and a little reduction in the temperature is desirable when the leaves are of full size. Six or eight bulbs may be placed in a ten-inch pot.

The most popular Eucharis is E. grandiflora (syn. amazonica); there is a fragrant variety of this named E. grandiflora fragrans, and others are E. g. Lowii and E. g. Moorei. Candida and Sanderi are also good species, and hybrid forms, named burfordensis and Stevensii, are also meritorious. The other species are bakeriana, elmetana (hybrid), Lehmanni, Mastersii, and subedentata. The hybrid Urceocharis, from the Eucharis and Urceolina, is cultivated in the same way.

Eurycles

The Eurycles is little known in private gardens, but the two species form interesting occupants of the stove or greenhouse, with their umbels of white flowers, and broad, heart-shaped or ovate leaves. E. amboinensis is a stove species about two feet high, flowering in March. The other, E. Cunninghami, likes a warm greenhouse. It grows about a foot high. One part leaf-soil to three of good loam, with a little sand, will grow them satisfactorily. After they have completed their growth water may be diminished, and finally withheld to allow them to ripen.