Gladioli — Ixias — Sparaxises — Babianas — Morphixias — Tritonias

Gladioli

Although there are some districts in which the greater number of the Gladioli may be grown as hardy bulbs and left in the same position for years without removal, in the vast majority of British gardens they are more satisfactorily treated as half-hardy, and are lifted and replanted annually. They are less liable to disease, and less apt to be injured by frost in severe winters. Those, however, who wish to establish them permanently, will do well to plant rather deeper than is usually recommended—say, eight inches from the crowns to the surface of the soil.

The general cultivation of Gladioli is very simple. They may be grown well in any good loam, enriched in autumn by a supply of properly rotted animal manure being dug in deeply. In the case of the pretty early-flowering Gladioli, which are often satisfactory when permanently planted, they are put into the ground in late autumn, and protected with a layer of two inches of dry litter or cocoa-nut fibre. The greater number of the species, like the exquisite hybrid Gladioli, may be planted in April or early May. The corms should be about six inches deep, and are best planted by means of a trowel to form the holes, unless the soil has become too solid, in which case it ought to be forked over before planting the corms. For exhibition they may be planted about six inches apart, but for border decoration they look well in groups of three or five at a closer distance. Many charming effects may also be produced by planting Gladioli in beds, with a groundwork formed by a low plant of contrasting or harmonising colours. Other good effects may also be made by arranging them with other tall flowers. Gladioli should be staked early, and it is desirable to put in sticks when the corms are planted, unless they are in a position where the long stakes will look unsightly. In this case short sticks may be placed where the proper stakes are afterwards to go, so as to avoid injuring the corms when inserting these. They should be timeously secured with roffia or other soft material. Spikes of bloom intended for exhibition ought to be shaded and protected from the weather by a glass fronted box, with the lower portion of the glass shaded by whitening or canvas as the lower blooms open. When the leaves become yellow the corms may be lifted and, after drying slightly in a cool airy place, be stored free from frost until planting time.

The leading section of Gladioli is that formed by the gandavensis varieties, charming hybrids, which through a long period have been constantly improved until their almost perfect flowers have been produced. Even the best of the present day are being gradually superseded by novelties, and a selection of a few would only mislead. Named varieties procured from reliable firms will all give satisfaction, and seedlings of great beauty can be bought at a moderate price, and will often give flowers suitable even for exhibition. The scarlet G. brenchleyensis is indispensable for garden decoration.

The Lemoinei section, from G. purpureo-auratus and gandavensis varieties, is also very important, though it is not so perfect in form as the gandavensis flower. These Lemoinei varieties are characterised by fine blotches on some of the segments. They are slightly hardier than the preceding. These are still being much improved.

The nanceianus section comprises a number of very showy flowers, particularly suited for garden decoration or for cutting for large vases. The plants are tall, and the blooms are of great size. The Childsii varieties are also very effective plants in the garden, and are of fine colours. Several new hybrids are at present in course of improvement and will, in time, add much to the beauty of our gardens.

The species are not much grown, but there will be found among them a number of very pretty plants, which only await a demand to be readily obtainable. I have only space to refer to such as alatus, cardinalis, galeatus, hirsutus, dracocephalus, prÆcox, ringens, Saundersii, psittacinus, purpureo-auratus, and tristis, as all being interesting and not devoid of beauty of their own.

The hybrid Gladioli, as well as the species, make good pot plants which may be treated in a similar way to such bulbs as Hyacinths. Named varieties are propagated by offsets, by division of the corms, each portion having an eye attached, and by "spawn," the cormlets at the base of the corms which are grown on until they reach flowering size. Gladioli are also raised from seeds, sown in pans, or in the open ground in spring.

Ixias, Sparaxises, Babianas, Morphixias, and Tritonias

For convenience of treatment, these pretty and useful bulbs may well be grouped together. They are possessed of brilliant colouring, and few things are prettier or attract more attention than beds of these flowers. They are also lovely pot plants, and can be well grown in the cool greenhouse or conservatory. In some places they are hardy and may be left without much attention, but, as a general rule, they need the little care now recommended to bring them to perfection. For their cultivation, a bed with a south aspect, of rich, light loam, raised six inches above the level of the garden, is to be preferred, special care being taken that the drainage is perfect. The bulbs should be planted from October to January, at a depth of from three to four inches, and about three inches apart. If the foliage does not appear until spring, a little dry litter is all the protection required, but should it pierce through the soil earlier, a mat or two may be placed over the bed in frosty weather. When the foliage dies down after flowering, the bulbs may be lifted and dried off. For pot work, from five to six bulbs are enough for a five-inch pot, and loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand form a good compost. The best time to plant in pots is from September to December, and the soil should be slightly moist, but not so wet as to be adhesive. After making the compost firm about the bulbs, place the pots, plunged in cocoa-fibre or ashes, in a cold frame until the plants appear, when water may be given very moderately, and the lights kept off in all favourable weather. When the plants have made some growth, remove the pots to the greenhouse or conservatory, keeping them near the glass and giving a sufficiency of water.

The Ixia, or African Corn Lily, is a charming plant, with long racemes of brilliantly coloured flowers, whose dark centres add much to their beauty. Mixed varieties can be bought very cheaply, and will give many beautiful flowers. Bulb dealers also offer named collections at moderate prices. Azurea, blue; Beauty of Norfolk, yellow; Conqueror, yellow; crateroides, bright scarlet, and a capital thing; Donnatello, scarlet; erubescens major, rose-carmine; Excelsior, crimson-scarlet; magnificum, yellow; nitens, magenta; Queen of Roses, rose; viridiflora, a charming thing, with sea-green black-centred flowers; and White Queen, pure white, with crimson centre, are all desirable. Morphixias are now included by botanists with the Ixia. They bloom rather later. The varieties of paniculata should be grown. Sparaxises are equally beautiful, but are of dwarfer habit. Among the most useful is S. tricolor, which has scarlet flowers with a yellow centre. The others are not so much grown under name as formerly, as mixed varieties are cheaper, and give good flowers. Fire King is bright with its scarlet and black flowers, with a yellow centre, and Angelique, white; Garibaldi, crimson; Lady Carey, white, blotched purple; maculata, white, purple, and primrose; Queen Victoria, white, yellow, and black, are all good.

Babianas are also very beautiful with their dwarf habit, plaited hirsute leaves, and their self-coloured or strongly contrasted flowers. Apart from the species, of which there are upwards of twenty, there are a number of named varieties. Atro-cyanea, purple-blue and white; and rubro-cyanea, blue and crimson, are both varieties of B. stricta. Others worth growing are:—Attraction, blue; General Scott, lavender; Hellas, yellow; Julia, white and blue; speciosa, mauve; and villosa, blue. The plant called S. pulcherrima is Dierama pulcherrimum, which is named among hardy bulbs.

The Tritonias now include Montbretia Pottsii, but the plants, forms of T. crocata, generally known in gardens by the former name, more resemble the Sparaxis in their habit than the popular Montbretia of modern times. They are grown like the Ixia, but are rather more tender, and do best if kept indoors in winter. They bloom later than the Sparaxis, and differ in their leading colours, these being buff, rose, salmon, and orange. Good forms and varieties are amoena, yellow; Bella, blush; crocata, bright orange; elegans, orange-cerise; Eleonore, buff; and speciosa, orange-scarlet. Mixed varieties can be bought cheaply.