I IN making an ascent of Helvellyn, some tourists are bold enough to traverse the giddy and dangerous heights of Striding Edge: "but this road," says the Bard of the Lakes, "ought not to be taken by any one with weak nerves, as the top in many places scarcely affords room to plant the foot, and is beset with awful precipices on either side." The path on one part of the pass is certainly not more than two yards broad, and a tremendous precipice descending on each side makes it truly appalling and perilous. Mr. Baines, who, with a companion, ascended Helvellyn by this pass some years ago, thus describes it:—"The ridge we were upon—Striding Edge—was the shorter but more rugged path; and, in spite of the warnings of our boatman, we chose it, being incited by curiosity, and perhaps quite as much by the motive which actuates most men in fighting duels—a fear lest our courage should be called in question if we declined the danger. We therefore addressed ourselves to the passage of Striding Edge; but if we had seen the most dangerous part before we came to it, we should have been content to take the safer though more cowardly branch of the alternative offered to us. As we ascended, the hill became more steep and rugged, till at length the ridge presented nothing but rocks, the narrow edges of which lay upwards in the direction of the sky. Their sides became steeper and steeper, and it was with difficulty that we crept along paths not wider than a goat-track, to avoid clambering among the crags which formed the very ridge of the hill. At length it became impossible to find footing on the side, and we betook ourselves of necessity to the ridge itself. A melancholy interest attaches to this spot, from the fate of a young man who perished in its locality some years ago. It was here that Charles Gough, of Manchester, a Three months elapsed before his remains were discovered; when the faithful dog, which was his constant attendant during frequent solitary rambles amidst the wilds of Cumberland and Westmorland, was discovered still watching over the lifeless remains of his master. This striking and affecting instance of canine faithfulness has been commemorated by Wordsworth in his beautiful poem entitled Fidelity. A barking sound the shepherd hears, A cry as of a dog or fox; He halts, and searches with his eyes Among the scattered rocks: And now at distance can discern A stirring in a brake of fern; And instantly a dog is seen, Glancing through that covert green. The dog is not of mountain breed; Its motions too are wild and shy; With something, as the shepherd thinks, Nor is there any one in sight All round, in hollow, or on height: Nor shout, nor whistle, strikes the ear; What is the creature doing here? It was a cove, a huge recess, That keeps till June December's snow; A lofty precipice in front, A silent tarn below! Far in the bosom of Helvellyn, Remote from public road or dwelling, Pathway, or cultivated land, From trace of human foot or hand. There, sometimes doth the leaping fish Send through the tarn a lonely cheer; The crag repeats the raven's croak, In symphony austere; Thither the rainbow comes—the cloud— And mists that spread the flying shroud; And sunbeams, and the sounding blast That, if it could, would hurry past; But that enormous barrier binds it fast. Not free from boding thoughts awhile The shepherd stood: then makes his way Towards the dog, o'er rocks and stones, As quickly as he may; Nor far had gone before he found A human figure on the ground; The appall'd discoverer, with a sigh Looks round to learn the history. From those abrupt and perilous rocks The man had fall'n, that place of fear! At length upon the shepherd's mind He instantly recall'd the name, And who he was, and whence he came; Remember'd too the very day, On which the traveller pass'd this way. But hear a wonder, for whose sake This lamentable tale I tell! A lasting monument of words This wonder merits well. The dog, which still was hovering nigh, Repeating the same timid cry, This dog had been, through three months' space, A dweller in that savage place. Yes, proof was plain, that since that day, When this ill-fated traveller died, The dog had watched about the spot, Or by his master's side: How nourish'd here through such long time, He knows, who gave that love sublime; And gave that strength of feeling, great, Above all human estimate. The melancholy circumstances connected with the death of Charles Gough have also been beautifully depicted by the powerful pen of Sir Walter Scott, who has paid a pleasing tribute to the "pilgrim of nature" in some highly pathetic stanzas, which, by the by, are rendered additionally interesting from the following anecdote connected with them:—"Our two charming poets, Walter Scott and Campbell, walking together" (says Ryan, in his Poetry and the Poets), "and speaking of this incident, each agreed, in the spirit of amicable rivalship, to make it the subject of a poem. Scott, on his way home, composed the following exquisite lines, which he sent the next day to Campbell, who returned them with this reply:—'I confess myself vanquished: if I were to live a thousand years, I could I climbed the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn, Lakes and mountains beneath me gleamed misty and wide; All was still—save by fits, when the eagle was yelling, And, starting around me, the echoes replied. On the right, Striding Edge round the Red Tarn was bending, And Catchedecam its left verge was defending, One huge nameless rock in front was impending, When I marked the sad spot where the wanderer died. Dark green was that spot, 'mid the brown mountain heather, Where the pilgrim of nature lay stretched in decay, Like the corpse of an outcast, abandoned to weather, Till the mountain winds wasted the tenantless clay: Not yet quite deserted, though lonely extended, For faithful in death, his mute favourite attended, The much-loved remains of his master defended, And chased the hill-fox and the raven away. How long didst thou think that his silence was slumber— When the wind waved his garments how oft didst thou start— How many long days and long nights didst thou number, Ere he faded before thee, the friend of thy heart?— And ah! was it meet that no requiem read o'er him; No mother to weep, and no friend to deplore him; And thou, little guardian, alone stretched before him, Unhonoured the pilgrim from life should depart? When a prince to the fate of a peasant has yielded, The tapestry waves dark round the dim-lighted hall; With escutcheons of silver the coffin is shielded, Through the courts, at deep midnight, the torches are gleaming, In the proudly arched chapel the banners are beaming, Far adown the long aisle sacred music is streaming, Lamenting a chief of the people should fall. But meeter for thee, gentle lover of nature, To lay down thy head like the meek mountain lamb, When, wildered, he drops from some rock high in stature, And draws his last breath by the side of his dam: And more stately thy couch by this desert lake lying, Thy obsequies sung by the gray plover flying, With but one faithful friend to witness thy dying, In the arms of Helvellyn and Catchedecam. Charles Gough is said to have been a young gentleman of talent, and of an amiable disposition. His remains peacefully repose in the chapel-yard at Patterdale. |