As meat is composed of several substances, fibrine, albumen, gelatin, fat and the juices, it is necessary to understand the various methods of cooking in order to secure the best results. Meat has its season as well as many other foods. Pork is better in autumn and winter; veal in the spring and summer; fowl in autumn and winter; lamb in the summer and autumn; mutton and beef may be used any time. Meat should not be allowed to remain in the paper in which it comes from market, as it absorbs the juices and injures the flavor. Wipe all over with a clean wet cloth. Examine carefully, remove any tainted or unclean portions and keep in a clean, cool place until required. Good beef should be a bright red color, well mixed with fat, and a layer of fat on the outside; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. (See meat diagrams for different cuts.) Mutton should have an abundance of clear, white fat, the flesh fine grained and a bright red color. The fat of veal should be clear and white, the lean pink, and should always be thoroughly cooked. Pork is more indigestible when fresh than when cured, as in bacon and ham. Fresh pork should be firm, the fat white, the lean a pale red.

Wipe, trim, and tie or skewer into shape the cut for roasting. If there be a large piece of the flank, cut it off and use for soups or stews. If you wish to roast it, turn it underneath and fasten with a skewer. Lay the meat on a rack in a pan, and dredge all over with flour. Put on the top of a roast 2 or 3 tbsps. of dripping or pieces of the fat; put it in a very hot oven at first. After the outside has become seared, check off the heat and allow to cook slowly, basting frequently. (See time table for baking.)

Trim the steak free from all suet (save all trimmings for stews or the stock pot). Put the meat plate to warm, grease the broiler with a little of the fat. See that the fire is clear. Put the steak on the hot broiler and place it over the fire, turning every 10 seconds. It will take about 8 minutes if the steak is 1 inch thick. When done, place it on the hot plate, dredge it with salt and pepper; turn over and season the other side. Serve immediately.

When the fire is not suitable for broiling, heat the frying pan until smoking hot; trim the steak as for broiling, place firmly on the hot pan, turn frequently as in broiling, with a broad knife or pancake turner; never insert a fork, as it allows the juice to escape. It will cook in 10 minutes. Season, and serve the same as broiled steak. If a gravy is desired, fry a little of the suet and trimmings in the pan—after the steak has been removed—until brown, lift out the meat or suet, add 1 tbsp. of flour, stir until brown, add pepper and salt to taste, then add 1 teacup of boiling water. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes and strain over the steak.

1 lb. of steak from the upper side of the round, or any piece of lean beef free from gristle; chop very fine, add 1 tbsp. of onion juice (or finely minced onion), 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. black pepper, mix well together; dip the hands in cold water, take 2 tbsps. of the mixture and form with the hands into small round cakes. Have the frying pan very hot, put in 2 tbsps. of dripping; when hot, put in the steaks, brown on both sides—or they may be pan-broiled. Place them on a hot dish, add a tbsp. of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix until smooth and brown; add a cupful of boiling water, stir until it boils, add pepper and salt to taste, and pour over the steak.

2 lbs. of lean beef (cheaper cuts). Cut into pieces about 1 inch square, dredge with flour. Put 2 tbsps. of dripping into a frying pan; as soon as it is very hot put in the meat and shake or stir until nicely browned. Skim out the meat and put it in a saucepan. Add 1 tbsp. of flour to the dripping remaining in the pan, mix and add 1 quart of boiling water; stir over the fire until it boils, then strain it over the meat; add one small onion, pepper and salt to taste. Cover the saucepan closely and let it simmer for 2 hours. Make the dumplings by sifting 1 pint of flour, to which has been added 2 tsps. baking powder. Add 1/4 tsp. salt and enough milk to make a soft dough. Lift the dough in spoonfuls, placing them over the meat, cover quickly and let boil 10 minutes. Do not uncover the saucepan while the dumplings are cooking or they will fall immediately. Be careful not to allow the stew to burn while the dumplings are cooking.

Trim off the rough parts of a brisket of beef or any of the cheaper cuts. Place it in a kettle over a good fire; brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other; add 1 pint of boiling water, cover closely and simmer, allowing 20 minutes to every pound. Add pepper and salt when the meat is nearly done.

From 4 to 6 lbs. of beef from the lower part of the round or rump. Trim and rub well with salt, pepper and flour. Chop 2 small onions and fry until light brown in pork fat or dripping; skim them out and put them into the pan in which the meat is to be braised, then brown the meat all over, adding more fat if needed (this may be done in a very hot oven). Put the meat into the pan, on skewers to keep it from sticking, with the onions around it. Add 1 qt. of boiling water, cover closely, putting a brick or heavy weight on the cover to keep it down, and cook in a moderate oven 4 hours, basting occasionally. Turn once and add more water as it evaporates, so as to have 1 pt. left for gravy. When tender take up the meat, remove the fat, add more salt and pepper, and if liked, a little lemon juice or tomato may be added. Thicken with 2 tbsps. of flour wet in a little cold water. Cook 10 minutes and pour the gravy over the meat. Any tough meat may be cooked in this way.

Take any pieces left of a cold roast, steaks or stews, chop very fine; take 1 tbsp. butter or dripping, 1 tbsp. of flour, stir together in a hot frying pan, when brown add 1 cup boiling water; add 1 tbsp. chopped onion, pepper and salt to taste, let simmer for 10 minutes, then add the meat, stir until heated thoroughly and serve on toast.

• 1 pt. hashed corn beef or sausage.
• 1 tsp. salt.
• 1 tbsp. butter or dripping.
• 1 pt. of hashed potatoes.
• 1/4 tsp. pepper.
• 1/2 cup of milk.
• (Omit the milk if sausage is used).

Mix the potato and meat, season with the pepper and salt, add the milk and stir lightly. Put the butter or dripping into a hot frying pan, when melted put in the hash, spread it lightly and evenly, but do not stir it. Cover the pan and set where the hash will cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. Move over to a hotter part of the stove and let it remain until a rich, brown crust has formed on the bottom. Fold over and serve on a hot dish.

Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth with flour and wrap the leg up with it. Put it into a kettle of boiling water and simmer gently 20 minutes to every pound; add salt when the leg is nearly done. When cooked remove the cloth carefully, garnish with parsley and serve with caper sauce. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for broth, stews, etc.

• 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton.
• 4 good sized onions.
• 4 potatoes cut into dice.
• 2 qts. of water.
• Salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with the water, which should be boiling, add the onions sliced, and simmer gently for 3 hours. About 1/2 hour before the meat is done add the potatoes, season with pepper and salt, and serve.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, place in a baking pan, dredge with pepper, put 1 tsp. of salt in the pan, add just enough water to keep the pan from burning until enough of its own fat has fried out to use for basting. Baste at least every 10 minutes; allow 15 minutes to every pound in a very hot oven. Serve with mint sauce.

Are broiled or pan-broiled the same as beefsteak.

Have the cutlets about 1/4 of an inch thick, dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Put a tbsp. of dripping in a frying pan, and when very hot put in the cutlets; when brown on one side turn and brown on the other, take out and place on a hot dish. Add a tbsp. of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix and stir until brown; add a cupful of boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, stir until it boils, pour over the cutlets, and serve.

Wipe the knuckle well with a damp cloth. Cut it into pieces. Put into a kettle with 2 quarts of boiling water, add 1 onion chopped, 1/4 lb. of chopped ham, and 1 bay leaf, pepper and salt to taste. Cover and stew slowly for 2-1/2 hours (a half cup of rice may be added to this stew).

• 1 knuckle of veal.
• 1 blade of mace.
• 12 whole cloves.
• 1/2 cup of vinegar.
• 1 onion.
• 1 bay leaf.
• 6 pepper corns.
• Salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe the knuckle and cut it into pieces. Put into a kettle with 2 quarts of cold water; bring slowly to simmering point; skim and simmer gently for 2 hours; then add the onion, mace, bay leaf, cloves, pepper corns, and simmer 1 hour longer. Take out the knuckle, carefully remove the bones and put the meat into a mould or square pan. Boil the liquor until reduced to 1 quart, add the vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, strain and pour over the meat. Stand away until cold, when it may be turned out and garnished with parsley and lemon.

• 1 cup of bread crumbs.
• 1 tsp. of summer savory.
• 1 ssp. of pepper.
• 1/2 cup of chopped salt pork or ham.
• 1 tsp. of salt.

Have the bone removed from the shoulder, fill the space from which the bone was taken with the stuffing, fasten the meat together with a skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, put into the pan with 3 or 4 tbsps. of dripping, allowing 20 minutes to each pound, basting frequently in a moderately hot oven.

Soak the beans over night in cold water. In the morning wash them well in a colander, put them on to boil in cold water, at the first boil drain this water off and cover with fresh boiling water. Score the rind of the pork and put it in with the beans. Simmer gently until you can blow off the skin of the beans. To do this, take 3 or 4 beans in your hand, blow hard on them, and if the skin cracks they are done. Take out the pork and drain. Put the beans into an earthen pot or granite kettle with a cover; almost bury the pork in the centre of the beans. Add 1 tsp. of salt to 1 pint of the water in which the beans were boiled, pour this into the pot, sprinkle with pepper, pour over the beans 1 large spoonful of molasses, put on the lid, bake in a moderate oven for 6 or 8 hours. If baked in an ordinary iron baking pan they must be covered with another on which has been placed a weight, carefully watched, and baked only 3 hours.

Put the spare ribs in a baking pan, sprinkle lightly with pepper, add 1/2 tsp. of salt to 1/2 cup of boiling water, and pour in the bottom of the pan. Roast 20 minutes to every lb., basting often. When done, make a gravy and serve as for any other roast. (Spare ribs may be stuffed, the ribs cracked crosswise, the stuffing placed in the centre, the two ends folded over, roast as above.)

Have the ham cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick, trim off the rind and rusty edge. Broil the same as steak or chops. (This is a very nice way to serve ham with poached eggs.)

Ham may be pan-broiled as directed in former recipes.

Cut into very thin slices, put into a very hot frying pan, and cook until clear and crisp.

Prick the skins with a sharp fork so as to prevent bursting; place them in a frying pan over a moderate fire and fry in their own fat until a nice brown. After taking the sausage from the pan, add 1 tbsp. of flour to the fat in the pan, add 1 cup of boiling water, stir until it boils, pour over the sausage and serve.

Have the bacon cut in thin slices and keep it cold until the time to cook it. Have the liver cut into slices about 1/3 of an inch thick. If it be calf or sheep's liver, wash it in cold water and let it drain; but if it be beef liver, after washing it, cover with boiling water and let it stand for 5 minutes, then drain it. Cook the bacon as directed, then take it up. Lay the slices of liver in the hot fat, cook them for 8 or 10 minutes, turning often; season with pepper and salt. Arrange the liver on a warm platter, make a gravy as directed in other recipes, pour over the liver, placing the bacon round the outside. (Always cook bacon quickly and liver slowly.)

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