Rambles in Cuba :: CONTENTS.

CONTENTS.

I.
	Page
In the Tropics—First View of Havana—Entering the Bay—Surrounded—Landed—A Street in Havana—“Queen’s Hotel”—A Breakfast—The Harbor—The Coolies—The Plaza de Armas—Cuban Women—A Volante—Fine Avenues—A Priest—Shopping	7
II.
Celebrating a Victory—General Serrano—A Cuban Sacristan—His View of Mary Magdalene—Sunday—The Theatre de Tacon—General Serrano’s Wife—A “Norther”—The Fish Market—Brilliancy of the Fish—A Venerable Cosmopolite—The Slaves—The Chain Gang—The Cerro—A Count’s Country-house—No Twilight—Oranges—Polyglot Dinner—Lottery Ticket	17
III.
Drive to the Sea-shore—Evening Boat-ride—Splendor of the Waters—Campo del Marte—Low Mass—The “Madonna”—Beautiful Children—Church of San Filipo—Sacred Names—The Mount of Jesus—Corruption of the Clergy—Cuba Misrepresented in Books—Growing “used to it”—A Creole—Cascarilla—Warm Weather—The Cortina	30
IV.
Departing Guests—The Varieties—On Board, but not Gone—No Chimneys—Dog-Pails—Horses’ Tails—Tall Negroes—Ecclesiastical Torchlight Procession—Watchmen—Leaving Havana—In the Country—Stopped—Seeking a Breakfast—A Cuban Village—A Primitive Well—A Peculiar Palm—Guiness—Our Quarters therein	45
V.
A Palm-grove—A Planter’s Household—Coolies as compared with Negroes—Anecdotes of Coolies—Robbers—Heterogeneous Dinner—Creole Politeness	60
VI.
“Nice pretty House in the Country”—Wrong Side of the Horse—Discovery in Mental Photography—Visit to the Country-house—Not to be obtained—Contrast of Palms and Bamboos—The Youth of Tropical Nature—A Remarkable Phenomenon—House of the Marquis of V—— — “Le Armistad”—Burial of an Officer’s Child—A Shock—“Cafetal”—“La Providencia”—A Sugar Plantation—The “Royal Highway”—A Grand View	67
VII.
It Rains—The Effect—No Miserere—Guirappa-seeking—A Skeleton Horse—B——’s Pantomimes—A Day More—The Bells of Guiness—Market Day—An Invitation—Another Plantation—A Remarkable Tree—Palm-Sunday—A Sundayless World—Dreamland—I Didn’t Smoke—Cushioned Heads	84
VIII.
Dear old Mr. R—— — Chess and Whist and Life—Good Friday—A Religious Procession—The Silence of the Town—The Miserere—To Matanzas—Company in the Cave—Father M——’s approach to Matanzas—The Bay—Valley of the Yumuri—The Plaza—The Dominica—The Ensor House—Easter Sunday—The Paseo—Steamer to Havana—A Night on Board—“Queen’s Hotel”—Tricks on a Travelling Author—Theft on the Almanac	97
IX.
A Discovery for the Benefit of Smugglers—The Steamer Karnak—Adieu, Cuba!—An English Ship—Nassau—The Negro Custom-officer—English Hotel—An Ex-President—What the Island is and has—The Negro Element—The “Eastern Road”—The Air—The Beau Monde—Turtle Houses	113
X.
The Military Church—The Zouave Costume—Sunday come again—Twilight Rambles—The Kirk—Miscegenation—A Private Misery—The Old Fort—Lazy Negroes—Wrecking—The Town Library—Shopping—The Zouave Band—The Search for Coolness—The Government House—Silver Key—Buying Shellwork—Nassau grows Purgatorial—Farewell to Nassau	124

RAMBLES IN CUBA.

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