I left Buffalo on the 12th in the stage for Niagara Falls, or Manchester, distant from Buffalo twenty-three miles, fare one dollar. For the first time since I set out, I had plenty of room, as there were but six in the stage. We came to Black Rock in one and a half miles—it is a smart place, but never can equal Buffalo. I was here informed that a passage could be procured to Waterloo, in Upper Canada, on the opposite side, whence a stage runs to Chippewa. But as the current flows at the rate of nine miles an hour towards the great falls, I declined the experiment. The canal passes directly by the side of the river, until you arrive at the village of Tontawanto, distant twelve miles, where it takes the creek, by being dammed at its mouth. This place is near the Indian village of the same name, and is truly a low, dirty, and savage-looking town—so the sooner I leave it, the better. Our road has been, and still continues along the banks of the rapid Niagara. But of all the roads I have ever seen, travelled, or heard of, this comes nearer to shaking soul out of body than any other.

Grand Island commences six miles below Buffalo, and continues twelve miles, by seven wide. This is the spot that Major Noah purchased of the state to settle all the wandering Jews—a project which has not yet succeeded. Below Grand Island is Navy Island, about three miles in length; after leaving which you have a splendid view of the great river just preparing to make the lover's leap and wed Ontario—and shall I, like many others, and as certain to fail, like them, attempt to describe this mighty cataract? But let me first see it.

When within four miles of Manchester, we distinctly heard the troubled waters, and saw the ascending clouds of spray. At last we came opposite the rapids, one mile above the pitch, when I had enough to do to sit still and stare in mute astonishment and admiration. Having arrived at the inn at Manchester about 11 o'clock, taking no notice of the village, I immediately called for a room, deposited my trunk, clenched my umbrella, (for it rains here eternally,) and sallied out to see that which is truly said to be worth a voyage across the Atlantic to behold. I first went to the great pitch, then down the steps to the bottom of the great abyss, and gazed with wonder and astonishment—got pretty wet, and ascended in a fine perspiration. This was the first time in my life that I thought my eyes too small. However, I stretched them as wide as they would well bear, and they partially answered my purpose. Next I started for the bridge across to Goat Island, about two hundred and fifty yards long, under which the mighty waters dash and roar as if heaven and earth were invited guests to the great marriage of waters, so soon to take place. The thought was irresistible, that if the bridge beneath me were by any sudden mishap to give way, I should certainly go to the wedding also. But I got over safely, and found the island quite a pleasant promenade. I was not long in crossing it to take a peep at the great Canadian Horse-shoe. On this side of the island is also erected another bridge, to the distance of about sixty or seventy yards in length, from rock to rock, on the very verge of the terrible precipice. By what unearthly magic this bridge was erected at this awful spot, is not to my purpose to inquire—but there it was, and again the thought passed across my mind, whether I should venture to its further extreme. For a moment, fear caused me to pause—yet in another I resolved to try my fate. Alas! should a foot have slipped, (and it was very wet,) I must have bid farewell to earth, if not to water. When I reached the further extreme of the bridge and looked below, Almighty Heaven! before thee, in all thy unspeakable grandeur, and in this awful situation, what a poor, dependent, finite being did I feel myself to be! and, to be serious—for no man can feel otherwise here—I defy all the painters—all the poets—all the tourists—and in fact all mankind, to give to one who has not already seen this awfully magnificent scene, the most faint impression of its sublime and terrible reality. It is far away beyond human apprehension to delineate, however imperfectly, its bare profile. It is one of the few objects which cannot be proportioned; and nothing short of actual observation of the awful reality, can afford any satisfaction to the inquiring mind. It is indeed the work of God.

To account for the source of the vast stream of water which is constantly tumbling over the falls, seems extremely difficult. It never varies, but is eternally the same. You cannot change your situation twenty rods in any way, but its features vary materially. Hence arises the difficulty of making a good general likeness. I had heard and read a great deal of the Horse-shoe falls, but there is now no similitude of one to be seen. Its appearance is more in the form of a flat-iron, or the letter V, with the point up stream. It is said, and I have no doubt of its truth, that the view of the Horse-shoe falls is by far the grandest and most imposing; but it requires some nerve to venture thereon and look below. Goat Island contains about seventy acres, is very heavily timbered, and belongs to Judge Porter, who bought it at $10 per acre. Between it and the American shore are several other small islands; and the Goat-island-bridge, as it is called, is thrown first on one of these, and thence to the island itself. A very extensive paper mill is built upon the island on which the bridge first rests. If Judge Porter were disposed to sell out his purchase, he could doubtless realize a profit of a thousand per cent upon his seventy acres. You are charged twenty-five cents for the use of the bridge during your stay, for which you cross as often as you please. On the island is kept a collection of minerals, petrefactions, &c. being a sort of museum, of which the toll-gatherer is proprietor. He makes it a matter of conscience to charge pretty roundly for any you may purchase, as they are said to be collected under and about the falls—and as every person wishes to carry home some trophy of his visit, I presume the museum is a very profitable concern.

Having enjoyed an excellent night's repose, lulled by the roaring of the cataract, I rose early on the morning of the 13th, and hoisting my window, enjoyed a beautiful view of the rapids, which, independent of the falls, are a sublime spectacle. After breakfast I made up my mind, in spite of a heavy rain, to cross over and drink a health to old King George, and for other purposes. I therefore again descended the almost perpendicular staircase, paid my ferriage, entered a small boat, and in a twinkling was in the midst of the waters, enveloped in the surrounding spray. The waters here, like a violent, angry man, having vented all his fury, become comparatively tranquil, and susceptible of social and agreeable intercourse. The river, which, above the falls, is nearly a mile in width, becomes suddenly contracted to about a fourth of that distance. While crossing, the story of the Indian having descended the cataract in safety, occurred to me; and I at once pronounced the author destitute of truth. It is utterly impossible.

The view, while crossing the river, is obscured in a considerable degree by the surrounding spray; but the sound is almost deafening, and on placing my thumbs to my ears, and shutting my eyes for a minute, then suddenly opening them, and unstopping my ears, the effect almost amounted to stunning. Our landing on the opposite shore was soon effected, when the first thing I did was to take off my hat and drink, from a little mountain spring, a health to King George, but accompanied with various important qualifications. I ascended by a rough road, nearly completed, for the purpose of having a ferry to cross by a horse-boat, and after pulling and blowing, attained the top of the eminence, whence I proceeded to the Table Rock. I gazed, as usual, with astonishment, paid a shilling and went down the perpendicular ladder, or rather winding staircase, to the dreadful abyss below. I must here confess, that although I was yesterday heroic enough to go to the extreme of the Horse-shoe bridge, actually on the very verge of the precipice, and in the midst of the descending torrent, a spot terrible in comparison in point of danger, with that now before me, yet I was now afraid to venture under the sheet. The situation of the bridge on which I had so recently stood, hung, as it were, over me, and until that moment I had no conception of its dangerous location. Having satisfied my curiosity, I ascended the tedious staircase, and proceeded, conducted by a guide, to the spot on which was fought the memorable battle of Lundy's Lane, distant a short half mile. But there was nothing remarkable to be seen. The ground was free from the stain of blood, though the grass waved in rank luxuriance, fertilized, no doubt, by the blood of those brave men who perished in that sanguinary struggle. A sigh involuntarily rose to their memory, as I thought upon the ravages of war—cut myself a cane from the well contested field, and returning to the boat, bid farewell to Canada.

Before I leave the Great Falls, I may observe, that, having seen them from every accessible situation, I am satisfied that the best general view of them is from the Table Rock; though the finest and most terrific view of the Horse-shoe falls is from the bridge on the north side of the island, and the line and periphery of the pitch is best seen from the precipice of the island. Below, all is roar and deafening sound, while the spray, constantly rising, obscures in a great measure the sight. Manchester is one of the finest water-powers upon earth. Several manufactories are already established, and more are building.While seated on a bench, taking my last look of the Falls, "Farewell," said I, "magnificently grand and awfully sublime Niagara; although I never shall never behold thee more, yet will the appearance of thy remarkable visage, and the thunder of thy agitated waters, never be forgotten while existence remains." And the reflection of having seen one of the grandest works that nature's God ever produced, will be at least comfortable. I arose, ascended the summit, and left the scene.