Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning the metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open to the public. The gardens of three scientific societies, gradually brought into a very attractive state, are also accessible, though not without payment.
St. James’s Park.—This is so called from St. James’s Palace, which partly bounds it on the north. Originally these grounds were a marshy waste, which was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its site the palace now called St. James’s. Charles II. improved the grounds by planting the avenues of lime-trees on the north and south sides of the park; and by forming the Mall, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled space, half a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at ball. The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; hence it derived the appellation Birdcage Walk. The centre of the park was occupied by canals and ponds for aquatic birds. William III. threw the park open to the public for their recreation. Within the last thirty years the park has been greatly improved. It is nearly a mile and a-half in circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form delightful shady promenades. In the centre is a fine piece of water, interspersed with islands, and dotted with swans and water-fowl; a bridge was built across this water in 1857. On each side are spacious lawns, enriched with lofty trees and flowering shrubs. The lawns are separated from the avenues by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers’ lodges. There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the Queen’s Guard doing duty at each, day and night. At the east side is a large gravelled space, called the Parade, on which, about ten o’clock every morning, the body-guards required for the day are mustered—and here the regimental bands perform for a time in fine weather. Here also guns are fired on state occasions. At the south side of the parade is placed a huge mortar, brought from Spain, where it was used during the Peninsular war; it can propel a bombshell nearly four miles. At the north end of the parade is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from Alexandria, in Egypt. A little farther north from the parade is a broad flight of steps, giving entrance to the park from Waterloo Place, constructed by order of William IV.; these steps are surmounted by a lofty column, commemorative of the late Duke of York, which occupies the spot where formerly stood Carlton House, the favourite residence of George IV. while Prince Regent. (Near here the band of the Commissionaires plays on summer evenings.) Farther along the Mall, or avenue, is Marlborough House; next to which is St. James’s Palace, separated by Stafford House from the Green Park. At the western end is Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side, Birdcage Walk, and the Wellington Barracks. This park, all things considered, is one of the greatest ornaments to the metropolis. The lake or water is a famous skating-place in winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly uniform depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the breakage of the ice.The Green Park.—This park, less attractive than St. James’s, and occupying about 60 acres, rises with a gentle slope to the north of Buckingham Palace, and is bounded on its east side by many fine mansions of the nobility—including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the Earls Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough. In a north-westerly direction from the palace is a broad road called Constitution Hill, connecting St. James’s Park with Hyde Park Corner. On the north is the line of terrace-like street forming the western portion of Piccadilly. The whole of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is interesting from its undulating grassy surface, which rises considerably on the north side. From the highest ground there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham Palace, and of St. James’s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues of tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses of Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of other buildings. At the north-west angle of the park, where Constitution Hill joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the reign of George IV., elaborately decorated, but possessing little general effect. The largest equestrian statue in England, that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on this arch; where it was placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of taste, who protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement. Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to Apsley House, the great Duke’s residence; and here, in the after-part of the day, in fine weather, may be seen an extraordinary concourse of foot-passengers, vehicles, and equestrians, going to and returning from Hyde Park; also the general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington, Brompton, and other places in a westerly direction.
Hyde Park.—This fine open place is part of the ancient manor of Hida, which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, at Westminster, till Henry VIII. appropriated it differently. Its extent is about 390 acres, part of which is considerably elevated. The whole is intersected with noble roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in groups, presenting very diversified prospects. Near the south-east corner, the entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated pedestal, stands a colossal bronze statue of Achilles, cast from the cannon taken at the battles of Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing thirty tons, and (as the inscription informs us) ‘erected to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms by their countrywomen.’ Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &c. (Brompton and Kensington Roads in the distance.) It cost £10,000, and was the work of Sir R. Westmacott. The south-east entrance to the park, near Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton. The north-east entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises the Marble Arch, removed from the front of Buckingham Palace. The other entrances, of which there are several, are less ornate. The long sheet of water called the Serpentine enriches the scenery of Hyde Park. Near its western extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two smaller arches, erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of Kensington Palace; and the portion of the Serpentine contained within the gardens has lately been rendered very attractive, by the formation, at its head, of a small Italian garden, with fountains, statuary, &c. The carriage-drive on the northern bank of the Serpentine is called the Ladies’ Mile. On the level space of Hyde Park troops of the line and volunteers are occasionally reviewed. There is a well-stored magazine near the western side. The broad road through the park to Kensington is denominated Rotten Row, and is a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes, but is not open to wheel-carriages. Other roads display countless elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths, which are railed off from the roads, are favourite places of resort for visitors, who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the gaiety of the scene, more particularly between five and seven on a summer afternoon. There are several entrances open from early morning till ten at night. No stage or hackney coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of Hyde Park—with the exception of a road-way, made at the time of the International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up, across the park, near Kensington Gardens, for passenger-vehicles. The Serpentine is much frequented for bathing and skating. It has been recently cleaned out, and drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a receiving-house near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be endangered. The morning and evening hours for bathing are defined by regulations placarded in various places. The Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was held in a Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park. The Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the park. The Albert Memorial is at the Kensington end of Hyde Park.
London International Exhibition.—Not far beyond Prince’s Gate, Hyde Park, is the London International Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st May, and will continue open till the 30th September of this year. The ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save unnecessary expenditure of our space, which is obviously limited. Ground Plan Among the many objects of interest are shewn selected specimens as follows:—Pictures, Oil and Water Colour; Sculpture; Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics, &c.; Stained Glass; Architecture and Models; Engravings; Lithography; Photography as a Fine Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware; Machinery used for Pottery of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets; Worsted Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair and wool, and other animals; Educational Works and Appliances; Scientific Inventions and Discoveries; Horticulture. In the Royal Albert Hall musical art is represented daily.
London International Exhibition, 1873
Kensington Gardens.—At the western extremity of Hyde Park lie Kensington Gardens, a large piece of ground laid out in the ornamental park style, interspersed with walks, and ornamented with rows and clumps of noble trees. Besides entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the Knightsbridge and Bayswater Roads. Near the west end of the grounds stands Kensington Palace. The gardens have been more than once considerably extended, so that they now measure about two and a-half miles in circumference. There are some beautiful gates on the south side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook Dale Company to the Great Exhibition of 1851. These grounds form a most delightful public promenade during fine weather; especially on summer evenings, when one of the Guards’ bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.Regent’s Park.—This beautiful park is situated considerably away from the other parks, in a northerly direction from the Marylebone Road. It consists of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is enriched with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of flowers. Many of the Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps exercise and drill in this park, in all except the winter months. The park is surrounded by extensive ranges of buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated with sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of architecture: producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in some instances, of questionable taste. Three or four isolated mansions occupy sites within the park. The outer drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a perfect circle, with two outlets. At Mr. Bishop’s Observatory, near this inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his important discoveries of asteroids and comets. Near the south-eastern corner of the park the Colosseum stands conspicuous. It is now closed. The Zoological and Botanical Gardens will be described presently. Some distance north of the Colosseum are St. Katharine’s Hospital and Chapel—a very luxurious provision for ‘six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.’ Near the Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the Diorama, which was some years ago converted into a Baptist chapel, at the cost of Sir Morton Peto.
Primrose Hill.—This spot now deserves to be ranked among the public parks of London. It is immediately north of the Regent’s Park. The Crown owned part of it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College. The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept in excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity of viewing the ‘world of London’ from this spot in early morning. By permission of the authorities, a refreshment-room has been established for visitors; and a ‘Shakspeare Oak’ planted, April 23, 1864, which, however, “came to grief.”
Victoria Park.—This, the only park in the east or poorer division of London, consists of about 270 acres. Having been formed only a few years, the trees have not yet grown to a full size; but it is gradually becoming a pleasant spot, with flower-beds, lakes, walks, and shady avenues. This park is especially distinguished by possessing the most magnificent Public Fountain yet constructed in the metropolis; it was provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of £5,000; the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a Gothic structure, crowned by a cupola 60 feet high. Being near the densely populated districts of Bethnal Green and Mile End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants. It lies between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be obtained from two stations on the North London Railway—those of Hackney and Hackney Wick, or Victoria Park. The fountain just mentioned is near the Hackney entrance. Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel, from Mile End, and from Bow.
Battersea Park.—This park, of about 180 acres, on which £300,000 has been spent, lies between Vauxhall and Battersea, and is the only public park which comes down to the Thames. Nothing can exceed the change exhibited on this spot. Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called Battersea Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at, and healthful to walk in. A beautiful suspension bridge, from the designs of Mr. Page, connects this park with Chelsea, on the other side of the river; and near it is another bridge for railway traffic.
Kennington Park.—A few years ago there was an open common at Kennington, dirty and neglected, and mostly held in favour by such classes as those which held the Chartist meeting in 1848. It is now a prettily laid-out public park—small, but well kept.
Finsbury Park, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park, was opened in August, 1869.
Southwark Park was opened about the same time. Though small, they are great boons to the working classes.
Zoological Gardens.—At the northern extremity of the Regent’s Park are the Zoological Gardens, the property of the Zoological Society, and established in 1826. These gardens are very extensive; and being removed from the dingy atmosphere, noise, and bustle of London, present an agreeable and country-like aspect. The grounds have been disposed in picturesque style—here a clump of shrubby trees and border of flowers, indigenous and exotic; there a pretty miniature lake; and at intervals a neat rustic cottage, with straw-thatched roof and honeysuckled porch. Much of the ground, also, is occupied as green meadows, either subdivided into small paddocks for deer and other quadrupeds, or dotted with movable trellis-houses, the abodes of different kinds of birds which require the refreshing exercise of walking on the green turf. Throughout the whole, neat gravel-walks wind their serpentine course, and conduct the visitor to the carnivora-house, reptile-house, bear-pit, monkey-house, aviaries, aquaria, and other departments of the establishment. The collection of animals is unquestionably the finest in England. The gardens are open every week-day, from 9 till sunset, for the admission of visitors, who pay 1s. each at the gate, or 6d. on Mondays. On Saturday afternoon, in summer, one of the Guards’ bands generally plays for an hour or two. On Sunday Fellows are admitted, and non-Fellows by a Fellow’s order.
Zoological Gardens
Botanical Gardens.—These are also situated in the Regent’s Park, occupying the chief portion of the space within the inner circle. They belong to the Botanical Society, and contain a very choice collection of trees, shrubs, flowers, and plants generally. Admission by strangers can only be obtained through the medium of the members, or occasionally on the payment of rather a high fee. On the days of the principal flower and plant shows, these gardens are especially distinguished by the display of aristocratic fashion and beauty.
Horticultural Gardens
Horticultural Gardens.—These beautiful new grounds are objects of attraction on many accounts—their merit in connection with garden architecture, the interest attending the flower-shows there held, and the special relation existing between the grounds and the Exhibitions at Brompton. You can enter them by the gates in Exhibition Road and Prince Albert Road, South Kensington. A few years ago, besides an office in London, the society had only facilities at Chiswick for holding the great flower-shows. The present arrangement is in all respects a superior one. Twenty acres of land were purchased or rented from the Commissioners of the Great Exhibition of 1851, between the Kensington and Brompton Roads; the subscribers of the purchase-money being admitted to membership on favourable conditions. The ground is laid out in three terraces, rising successively in elevation, and surrounded by Italian arcades open to the gardens. There are also cascades and waterworks. The highest terrace has a spacious conservatory, to form a winter-garden. Mr. Sidney Smith is the architect. The last Great Exhibition building was so planned as to form a vast southern background to the gardens; and the latter were spread out in all their beauty, as seen from certain points in the former. During the summer months the gardens are open on certain occasions to the public by paying, the days and terms being duly advertised in the newspapers and journals. Near these gardens is the towering Royal Albert Hall of Science and Art, which was formally opened by Queen Victoria, on the 29th of March, 1871. The fact of 8,000 people attending within one building to witness the opening of it, will shew its vast size. The sum of £200,000, up to that date, had been expended on it. The Hall, in some sense, has been erected in memory of the late Prince Consort, whose aspirations, during his honourable life here, were always towards whatever tended to the moral and intellectual culture of the people of this country. The management of the undertaking is entrusted to the energetic attention of the scientific men to whom we owe the South Kensington Museum.