The drive to Runton is by some considered the least pleasing of any round Cromer. We hardly know how to subscribe to this opinion, for the sea-view is extremely fine, and there are points of inland beauty belonging to it which are very striking. As we before observed, the town itself, to be seen to advantage, should be viewed from this road.Runton parish comprises two small villages, called East and West Runton, and is from one to two miles distant from Cromer. It contains about one thousand acres of land, subject to the encroachments of the ocean, and is bounded on the south by a lofty range of hills. The high hill to the left is known by the name of Wrinkleborrow Hill. The church, which is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands on an acclivity above West Runton, and is a rectory, united with Aylmerton. East Runton is a mere fishing village, nearly a mile east of the church, on a small green. Sir T. F. Buxton owns a very neat mansion here.

About a mile distant is the small village of Beeston, or as it is distinguished from others of the same name, Beeston Regis, or Beeston on the Sea, which adjoins Lower Sherringham. The church, which is near the beach, is dedicated to All Saints, and is a rectory, of which the patronage is vested in the Duchy of Lancaster.

The object of attraction here, however, to the visitor, is the ruins of its ancient priory, which stand at the east end of the village in a romantic dale, sheltered from the cold winds of the north by lofty hills, yet so situated as to command a noble view of the sea and of the surrounding country. The site indeed of all the religious houses of old was so invariably selected on principles of the best taste, and with the utmost regard to the local advantages and conveniences of the place, that a recollection of the fact should always draw attention to the point, with a view to discover what these were.

The priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was founded in the reign of King John, by the Lady Isabel, or, as some say, by the Lady Elizabeth de Cressy, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. At the dissolution it was granted to Sir Edward Windham and others. A small tower, and the whole of the west gable-wall of the Priory church are standing, together with many other large masses of walls, over which the “ruin-loving ivy” extends its faithful embraces. Some years ago the ivy grew most luxuriantly, but it was ruthlessly cut down, since which time, though its growth has been encouraged, it has not recovered its original beauty. To see these ruins to advantage, they should be visited in the evening, when the glowing yet subdued rays of the setting sun illuminating the most picturesque parts of the abbey and the surrounding landscape, and throwing others into deep and harmonious shade, a picture is presented to the careless observer which cannot fail to give gratification, and to awaken in the more meditative that train of melancholy but pleasing thought, which seems so peculiarly to belong to such spectacles and to such seasons.

Lower Sherringham, which is nearly a mile and a half distant from the church, is situated on lofty sea-cliffs, rising nearly one hundred feet from the beach. These cliffs are divided by a narrow ravine, through which a small rivulet and a road winds down the beach. It is a considerable fishing-station, having several curing-houses. Cod, skate, whitings, crabs, and lobsters are caught here in abundance, particularly the two latter, of which great quantities are sent to London by vessels which receive the fish from the boats whilst at sea.

The sea makes continual encroachments here as on other places on this coast. During an extraordinary high tide, which occurred on the 22nd of October, 1800, a large inn was precipitated in ruins upon the beach, but providentially its inhabitants had sufficient warning of their danger to save themselves and much of their furniture. A new inn has been since erected.

There are a few traces of a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, still to be seen.—The lovers of the sublime will do well to visit the cliffs of this place.

From hence to Upper Sherringham the road becomes exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, and is not to be exceeded by any other in the neighbourhood. The estate which lies to the right, together with the handsome mansion erected upon it, belonged to the late A. Upcher, Esq., and is now in possession of his son. The house seen nearest the road, and which is often mistaken for the Hall, the seat of H. R. Upcher, Esq., is inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, the widow of the above gentleman; a lady of whom it may truly be said by the poor of her neighbourhood, that she is “feet to the lame, and eyes to the blind,” and a friend to all.

The church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is the patron. It is a very neat structure, and is kept in excellent repair. It boasts of only two or three slabs with brasses upon them, and one monument, by Bacon, erected in the chancel to the memory of Mr. Upcher, but this is well worthy of inspection. The design is elegantly conceived and admirably executed, yet so simple and touching, and the inscription it bears is so impressive, that it can scarcely fail to do, what, indeed, all such momentoes ought to do, and are perhaps intended to do,—affect the heart of the observer, and recall a truth to his mind, which is too often forgotten—that all on earth is fleeting and unstable.

Near the church is a large reservoir, which was formed in 1814, to supply the village with water, brought in pipes from a spring on the neighbouring hill. The school is supported by Mrs. Upcher, for the education of thirty boys and fifty girls, who each pay one penny per week.

If the visitor desire to view Sherringham Hall, the mansion and grounds of H. R. Upcher, Esq., he should take the Upper Road, as it is called, leaving Cromer by the Holt-road, by which means he will not only gain the most advantageous view of each, but avoid the ascent of a very long and high hill. Entering the lodge-gate direct from the road, he will proceed for nearly a mile through a path-road through the grounds, which for boldness, beauty, and variety is unequalled in this part of the country, and would not disgrace even some of the more favoured spots in Wales. If the gurgling of the concealed stream, or the gush of falling water were heard,—the characteristic accompaniment of Welch scenery,—the delusion would be complete: as it is surprise and pleasure divide the attention. After winding down the hill for some time, occasionally obtaining a fine prospect of the ocean, and seeing to advantage the house inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, we suddenly come in view of the Hall itself, which is a handsome and commodious edifice. Its situation is well chosen, overlooking a fine bay of the ocean, and sheltered by a woody acclivity. The ground everywhere rises into bold swells, and is adorned with trees from their summits to their base, united by gentle slopes to the rich valleys, “spotted with white sheep,” that divide them. The effect of alternate light and shade on these at a distance is delightfully shown, and the whole scenery is such as may equally gratify the painter and the lover of nature.

One pensive thought, however, is awakened by the recollection that the amiable individual who erected the mansion and in part [44] adorned the surrounding grounds, did not live to inhabit the one or to enjoy the other. Mr. Upcher died in the flower of his age, in 1819, just before the house was completed, leaving a widow and several young children, and is interred in a mausoleum which he built adjoining the church.

Having passed the house, the road leads into the Lower Road, to Beeston and Runton, or by taking the road to the left, you may reach Weybourn, where the cliff ends.

The drive to Upper Sherringham by the Lower Road, or Runton, consists of five miles; by the Upper, or Holt, six miles. If extended to Weybourn, eight miles.